Paneling and Siding Catalog - Beronio Lumber

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38 Selecting the right finish for your wood siding is critical to maintaining its appearance and performance over time. For information beyond what is presented in this primer on finish types, we recommend The Forest Products Society's Finishes for Exterior Wood as an excellent overall guide. Paints, solid-color stains, clear coatings, water repellents, and semitransparent stains are applied to wood siding to enhance its appearance and to protect it from the elements. These and other finishes are classified as either film-forming or penetrating. Both types can be either water-borne (also known as latex) or oil-base. Upon drying, filmforming finishes—primers, paints, solid-color stains, and clear coatings—coalesce into a thin continuous sheet that sits on top of the wood. Of all coating types, film-forming finishes provide the greatest protection to wood by virtue of the physical barrier they pose to the elements. Penetrating finishes, on the other hand, do not form surface films, but rather are absorbed into the wood. Water repellents and semitransparent stains fall into this category. Effective in controlling surface checking, penetrating finishes do not stop wood from weathering. The type of finish, the properties of the wood to which it is applied, local climate, and directional exposure influence the performance and longevity of coatings applied to exterior wood products. All other things being equal, paints last longest, followed closely by solid-color stains, with semitransparent stains, water repellents, and clear coatings all about an equally distant third. All other things being equal, finishes last longest on vertical grained surfaces of low density softwoods whose moisture content stays below about 16 percent. All other things being FINISHES FOR WOOD SIDING equal, coatings last longest on a building’s northern exposure and on those parts of a building that are sheltered from rain. Finishes can be applied to new wood siding in a factory or on site. Because of its many advantages, factory-finishing of siding is fast becoming the norm. Here, all sides of every piece of siding—face, back, edges, and ends—are machine-coated with a primer and, if desired, with one or more topcoats. Because the siding arrives at the jobsite already backprimed and topcoated, field finishing costs are reduced or eliminated, and the siding has instant protection from the elements. Site-cut edges and ends, of course, must be re-primed before siding is installed. Likewise, the back, edges, and ends of new bare wood siding that will be finished in the field should be primed before siding is installed. The face should be primed within two weeks of the siding being installed, otherwise it will have to be lightly sanded to remove contaminants and to reactivate the wood for good adhesion. Such surface preparation is, of course, not possible with roughsawn siding. Best adhesion is achieved on both smooth and rough siding when finishes are worked into surface irregularities by brushing. Finishes applied on-site by spraying or rolling should be back-brushed for this reason. FILM-FORMING FINISHES PRIMERS—Applied to bare wood in advance of paints and solid-color stains, a primer creates a smooth base for the topcoat to adhere to, and serves as a chemical barrier between the wood and the topcoat. Best performance is obtained with a primer that contains a fungicide to stop mildew and a stain-blocker that prevents water-soluble extractives in wood from discoloring topcoats.
PAINTS—Paints are opaque coatings that, in addition to their decorative function, protect wood by blocking the sun’s ultraviolet rays, repelling liquid water, retarding the absorption of water vapor, and preventing erosion. For each wet coat applied, a dry film 2 or 3 mils thick (1 mil equals 0.001 inches) is left behind. Oil-base paints generally have lower permeability to water vapor and are less flexible over time than waterborne paints. As a consequence, oil-base paints are more susceptible to cracking and peeling occasioned by swelling and shrinking of the underlying wood. Performance and longevity of paints can be enhanced by treating bare wood with a “paintable” water repellent prior to priming. Paint’s best performance is obtained when two topcoats of 100 percent acrylic latex paint with fungicide are applied over a primer containing fungicide and stain-blocker. Depending on local climate and severity of exposure, such a system should give 7 to 10 years of good performance before refinishing is needed. SOLID-COLOR STAINS—Solid-color stains are essentially thin paints, with a one-coat dry film thickness of about 1 mil. The thinness of the film permits both liquid water and water vapor to pass more easily into and out of the wood. Though some solid-color stains can be applied directly to bare wood, most benefit from being applied over a compatible primer containing fungicide and stain-blocker. Application of a “paintable” water repellent prior to priming further improves performance and longevity. As with paints, best performance is achieved with a three-coat system of primer containing fungicide and stain-blocker and two top coats of 100 percent acrylic latex solid-color stain with fungicide. Depending on the environment, this system should give 3 to 7 years of satisfactory service before maintenance is required. CLEAR COATINGS—Essentially paints without pigment, varnishes, urethanes, and other clear coatings require frequent maintenance. The sun’s ultraviolet rays pass through these transparent finishes and slowly degrade the wood. In usually two years or less, even the toughest clear finishes often crack and peel. Additives that block or absorb ultraviolet light slightly lengthen the service life of clear coatings. Best performance is obtained by applying a “paintable” water repellent to the bare wood, followed by three or more coats of finish. PENETRATING FINISHES WATER REPELLENTS—Used on exterior wood that is otherwise unfinished, water repellents retard absorption of liquid water by wood, causing dew, rain, and snow melt to bead on the surface where it can harmlessly evaporate. Effective in limiting warping, surface checking, and end splitting, these penetrating finishes do not prevent wood from turning gray. Most water repellents are oil-based; some contain a fungicide to discourage mildew. Applied liberally by brushing or spraying, water repellents are readily absorbed into smooth and rough wood. Because water repellents applied to otherwise unfinished wood remain effective for only 1 or 2 years, they must be reapplied regularly. So-called “paintable” water repellents are applied directly to bare wood before the primer to enhance the performance and longevity of paints and solid-color stains by reducing extractive staining, and blistering and peeling. SEMITRANSPARENT STAINS—An excellent choice for roughsawn or weathered wood, semitransparent stains impart color to wood without hiding its natural texture. If used on new smooth wood, only a single coat of semitransparent stain should be applied initially. Otherwise, a film may form; surfaces may appear glossy and later begin to flake because of smooth wood’s inability to absorb the second coat. Additional coats can be applied once smooth surfaces have become more absorptive after weathering for 1 or 2 years. Semitransparent stains provide to wood only slightly more protection from the elements than water repellents. Reapplication is usually necessary every 3 to 4 years. 39
Page 1: PANELING AND SIDING
Page 4 and 5: 4 PANELING AND WAINSCOTING Wood pan
Page 6 and 7: 6 J4-G 3/8 x 4 Genuine Mahogany Bea
Page 8 and 9: 8 J5J 1 x 4 House White TG Bead 9/1
Page 10 and 11: 10 J15-DF 1/2 x 4 Douglas Fir B VG
Page 12 and 13: 12 J25 1 x 6 Douglas Fir B (10% C)
Page 14 and 15: 14 J54 4 x 8 MDF Preprimed Harbor B
Page 16 and 17: 16 J74C 1 x 4 Red Cedar Clear VG
Page 18 and 19: 18 Wood has been used as siding for
Page 20 and 21: 20 K31 1 x 8 Redwood Select Heart S
Page 22 and 23: 22 K50V 3/4 x 6 Western Red Cedar C
Page 24 and 25: 24 PRIMED HOUSE RED SIDINGS The pat
Page 26 and 27: 26 K4-10J 1 x 10 House Reds VG FJ-E
Page 29 and 30: CEDAR SHINGLES Wood shingles have a
Page 31 and 32: CEDAR SHINGLES KS 14 16” Red Ceda
Page 33: PLYWOOD SIDING KPB 19/32” Brecken
Page 36 and 37: 36 KH-9 9-1/4” Hardiplank Smooth
Page 40 and 41: SIDING: INSTALLATION DETAILS A rain
Page 42: 2525 MARIN STREET SAN FRANCISCO, CA

Paneling and Siding Catalog - Beronio Lumber

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