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Apr 24 - May 1 - Cascadia Weekly

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<strong>Cascadia</strong> <strong>Weekly</strong> #2.17 04.25.07 Do it 3 | Letters 4-5 | Views 6-7 | Currents 8-16 | Get GET Out OUT 18<br />

| Words & Community 19 | On Stage 20 | Art 21 | Music 22-25 | Film 26-29 | Classifi eds 30-38 | Food 39<br />

18<br />

STORY AND PHOTO BY JOHN D’ONOFRIO<br />

Among the<br />

Chickens<br />

Adventure on alpine Kauai<br />

OK, LET’S get this out of the way right up<br />

front: the Island of Kauai is not technically located<br />

within the regular geographical boundaries<br />

typically covered in the pages of this publication.<br />

In fact, it is roughly 2,400 miles west<br />

of our lovely burg. But sometimes—at that certain<br />

time of year when spring seems to procrastinate<br />

before actually wrapping us in her aromatic<br />

skirts—you have to make the journey.<br />

This is such a time. The liquid grey skies of<br />

our sweet little corner of the country suggest<br />

a hike of a different kind. And what a hike:<br />

a 10-mile loop high above the fabled Na Pali<br />

coast in Koke’e Park, Kauai’s high country. Not<br />

to mention the chickens.<br />

When most folks think about a trip to Hawaii<br />

they’re not thinking about grunting up<br />

glorifi ed pig trails in the clouds. There’s the<br />

beach—palm trees and all that. And we will<br />

avail ourselves of those aquamarine shores.<br />

But for now, the cloud forest beneath Mt.<br />

Wai’ale’ale (the wettest place on Earth) will do<br />

quite nicely. It’s a warm rain, you see.<br />

We rise with the dawn and load our packs.<br />

We walk to the trailhead of the Nu’aholo trail<br />

and plunge into the greenery of the cloud<br />

get out<br />

hiking running cycling<br />

forest. Our itinerary stitches three separate<br />

trails into a grand loop that will take us to<br />

the brink of the Na Pali cliffs, then across a<br />

traverse high above the sparkling ocean on the<br />

Nu’aholo Cliffs trail and then fi nally back to<br />

the Awa’awapuhi trail.<br />

The path alternates between root-choked<br />

and muddy, but the skies are clear. The route<br />

takes us generally downhill through dense forests<br />

of strange and wonderful trees and across<br />

open meadows of green, wind-ruffl ed grasses.<br />

Unseen, the infamous wild mountain chickens<br />

of Kauai can be heard clucking in the underbrush.<br />

I fi nd this immensely cool.<br />

As we approach the edge of the great cliffs<br />

we work our way down gullies of bare red dirt<br />

and out onto a great fl ying buttress 2,500 feet<br />

above the gleaming sea. The fl uted columns of<br />

the Na Pali coast rise around us in the noonday<br />

sun. We drop our packs and eat lunch on this<br />

green perch as we watch the cloud shadows<br />

move across the ocean. Describing the Na Pali<br />

coast is a dubious business: think of Shangri<br />

La by the sea.<br />

We head out onto the Nu’aholo Cliffs trail and<br />

trace a sometimes-precarious line high along<br />

the cliffs. The trail plunges into the jungle,<br />

where giant prehistoric ferns with fi ddleheads<br />

the size of dinner plates rise above our heads.<br />

We arrive at the second grand lookout and<br />

the wild mountain chickens of Kauai are all<br />

over us. Resplendent in all the colors of the<br />

rainbow, they fl ash like trout lures in the late<br />

afternoon sun.<br />

Clouds begin to gather as we start up the<br />

Awa’awapuhi trail. We reach the trailhead as<br />

a light rain drifts through the trees and head<br />

back. It’s a warm rain.<br />

get out EVENTS<br />

THURS., APRIL 26<br />

WALL CLIMBER: Big wall<br />

climber Micah Dash will<br />

present a show featuring<br />

highlights from climbs from<br />

Pakistan to Yosemite at 8pm<br />

at WWU’s Fraser Hall 4. The<br />

event is free. For more info:<br />

650-7533.<br />

TIDES, CURRENTS: Sea kayaker<br />

Sharmon Hill leads a<br />

free clinic dubbed “Tides<br />

and Currents” at 6pm at REI,<br />

400 36th St. For more info:<br />

647-8955.<br />

SAT., APRIL 28<br />

PLOWING MATCH: The 66th<br />

annual Plowing Match starts<br />

at 11am at Lynden’s Northwest<br />

Washington Fairgrounds. The<br />

event promises “unique sounds<br />

and smells” and perhaps even<br />

some asphalt plowing. For<br />

more info: nwwafair.org.<br />

TRACKING CLASS: Learn<br />

about “The Five Arts of Tracking”<br />

at a class from 10am-<br />

3pm with Earthways Nature<br />

School. Cost is $35. For more<br />

info and location: 599-1393.<br />

TULIP TREKKERS: Join the<br />

NW Tulip Trekkers for a walk<br />

along parts of Fairhaven and<br />

the Interurban Trail at 10am<br />

at Fairhaven Runners, 1209<br />

11th St. For more info: 392-<br />

0101 or nwtrekkers.com.<br />

SUN., APRIL 29<br />

DIRTY DAN CHALLENGE: As<br />

part of Dirty Dan Days, sign up<br />

for the Dan Harris Challenge<br />

starting at 8am at Boulevard<br />

Park. Entry for the nine-mile<br />

rowing and paddling race is<br />

$20-$25. For more info: danharrischallenge.com.<br />

MON., APRIL 30<br />

CONSERVATION, CONFLICT:<br />

Bellingham trail guide author<br />

Ken Wilcox will present<br />

a slide program based on his<br />

new tome, Wilderness Alps:<br />

Conservation and Confl ict in<br />

Washington’s North Cascades ,<br />

at 7pm at Village Books,<br />

1200 11th St. For more info:<br />

671-2626.<br />

BOCCE BALL: All are welcome<br />

to join in to play Bocce Ball<br />

at 5pm at the Fairhaven Village<br />

Green. For more info:<br />

Fairhaven.com.<br />

TUES., MAY 1<br />

BIKE 101: Gain confi dence<br />

on the trails and roads by<br />

attending a free “Bike Maintenance<br />

101” clinic at 6pm<br />

at REI, 400 36th St. For more<br />

info: 647-8955.

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