1876 British Viscount & Ambassador James Bryce - Noah's Ark Search

142 THE EXPLORERS OF ARARAT
fable and mystery, not only to Herodotus, but even to Strabo and Ptolemy. So, too, the waves of barbarian conquest
that successively descended from the Ural and the Altai across the plains of the Caspian fretted and foamed in vain
against this gigantic wall, and were forced to seek their ingress to the southern countries either to the east of the
Caspian into Iran, or round the northern shores of the Black Sea towards the Danube valley. There has never been a
time (save during the seventh and eighth centuries), down till the cession of Venetia in 1866, when regions on both
sides of the Alps have not, either practically or nominally, formed parts of the same empire—Roman, or Romano-
Germanic, or Austrian; whereas the countries immediately to the north and south of the Caucasus have never obeyed
the same ruler (except, perhaps, in the lifetime of Zinghis Khan), until Russia established herself in Georgia at the
beginning of this century. In them, as in the other mysterious boundary of the ancient world, the Pillars of Hercules, the
Greeks laid the scene of mythological exploits and marvels. Colchis, to which the Argo sailed, lay under their shadow;
Prometheus was chained to one of their towering rocks; near them dwelt the man-hating Amazons; beyond them goldguarding
griffins and one-eyed Arimaspians carried on perpetual war. So it remained for many centuries, down to the
days of Marco Polo and Mandeville, in the east as well as in the west. Readers of the Arabian Nights will remember
that there Mount Kaf is the limit of the world, and the usual threat of a magician to an obstinate sultan is, “I will
transport thy city beyond Mount Kaf, and transform all the people in it into stones.” Thus it is a kind of ethnological
museum, where specimens may be found of countless races and languages, some of which probably belong to the
early ages of the world; races that seem to have little affinity with their present neighbors, and of whose history we
know nothing except what comparative philology can reveal. Even before the Christian era it was famous for the
variety of its peoples. Herodotus says: “Along the west side of the Caspian Sea stretches the Caucasus, which is of all
mountains both the greatest in extent and the loftiest in height. It contains many and various nations, living mostly on
the fruits of wild trees.”
Strabo describes the Caucasus as inhabited by an immense number of different tribes, speaking different
tongues, and many of them very savage. He reports the story that seventy such tribes resort, chiefly to buy salt, to the
Greek trading station of Dioscurias, on the Euxine coast, of whom the bravest and most powerful are the ferocious
Soanes, and tells how in summer the natives climb the mountains shod with shoes of ex-hide, their soles full of spikes
to give them a hold upon the ice. Many of them are troglodytes [prehistoric people that lived in caves, dens, or holes],
he adds, who, owing to the cold, dwell in holes. Some use poisoned arrows. Another writer says that some are
cannibals—there is at any rate a consensus as to their ferocity.
No more inappropriate ethnological name was ever propounded than that of Caucasian for a fancied division of
the human family, the cream of mankind, from which the civilized peoples of Europe are supposed to have sprung. For
the Caucasus is today as it was in Strabo’s time, full of races differing in religion, language, aspect, manners,
character; races so numerous and still so little known that I shall not attempt to do more than mention some of the
most important. Here in Daghestan many of the tribes occupy only one or two valleys, yet remain distinct in language
and customs from their neighbors, and may probably remain so for centuries to come, an inexhaustible field for the
ethnologist. Northwest of the Lesghians, towards Vladikavkaz, is the large Mohammedan tribe Tchetchens
[Chechens], and beyond them the Ingushes, while southwest of Lesghistan, towards the Dariel Pass, dwell the
Hessurs, or Chewsurs, a small people, who still array themselves in helmets and chain armor, carry shields and
spears, and declare themselves descended from the Crusaders, though how Crusaders should have come there they
do not explain. The truth seems to be that they wear, being nominally Christians, small crosses of red or black cloth
sewed upon their clothes, and that some one, having been struck by the similarity of this to the Crusaders’ usage, set
the tale a-going. Still farther west, between the watershed and the Kuban, stretching far to the northwest of Elbruz lay
Circassia, inhabited by tribes who called themselves Adighé, and whom the Russians knew as Tcherkesses. They
were nearly all Mohammedans, though of rather a loose kind, admirable horsemen and marksmen, living by war and
pillage, and leaving to their women such tillage as the character of the country permitted. The Muslim peoples of the
Caucasus are held by most travelers to be superior in energy and uprightness to the Christians. In fact, their
Christianity consists in kissing the cross, in feasting and idling on certain holidays, fasting on others, and in
worshipping deities, some of whom go by the names of Christian saints. Their supposed chivalry, like most chivalries,
disappeared upon close examination. They lived upon robbery and the sale of their children, and of the ferocity, which
accompanies their robberies, they have given us hideous examples in Bulgaria, and still more recently in the Armenian
campaign. Each man, like the Cyclopes in Homer, rules over his wife and children, and cares nothing for his neighbor.
Except that the risk of being eaten or pierced by poisoned arrows is gone, the mountains are much in the same state
as they were in the time of Herodotus [fifth century B.C.] and Strabo [c. 63 B.C. to A.D. 24].
The Narsan spring at Kislovodsk [is] strongly impregnated with carbonic acid as well as iron. This last discharges
190,000 cubic feet of gas in twenty-four hours, and is often resorted to as a sort of tonic by people who have gone
through the regular course of sulphurous or alkaline waters. Like the famous spring of Bórszek, in Transylvania, which
is used in the same way as an “after cure,” it is quite cold (56° F.); and the physical pleasure of a plunge into its
glittering waters, filled with the carbonic acid gas rising and breaking in great bubbles, is one of the most intense that
can be conceived. It is like bathing in iced champagne. The Scotch colony [was] planted here in the time of Alexander I
by missionaries sent to convert the Tcherkesses; the other a German colony, of somewhat later origin; all three laid out
in straight lines, with trees running down their streets, and roads being made to connect them. They bore an almost
ludicrous resemblance to those bird’s-eye views of suburban estates or rising watering-places which one sees on the