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The Champagne Shoppin’ List<br />

by Charles M. Bear Dalton<br />

I love Champagne. Well, I<br />

love sparkling wine in general<br />

but I particularly love<br />

Champagne. And this is <strong>the</strong><br />

time of year EVERYONE is<br />

thinking about Champagne.<br />

As much as I love Champagne,<br />

I can’t always afford to drink<br />

what I’d like and can only<br />

rarely afford to drink <strong>the</strong> very<br />

best.<br />

So I divide my bubbly pleasure into four groups: Basic Bubbles, Finer<br />

Fizz, Special Sparklers and <strong>the</strong> Luxe. Basic Bubbles run under about $20<br />

per bottle. Finer Fizz runs from around $20 to about $40. Special Sparklers<br />

run from around $40 to about $90. Luxe starts at $90 and <strong>the</strong> sky is <strong>the</strong><br />

limit. No matter which price range you are in, all good sparkling wines<br />

have at least one thing in common: <strong>the</strong>y all are made using Methode<br />

Champenoise (aka <strong>the</strong> Champagne Process – please see box “Bubbly<br />

Basics”). Real Champagne from <strong>the</strong> Champagne region of France doesn’t<br />

need to say Methode Champenoise because, if French Champagne says<br />

“Champagne” on <strong>the</strong> label, it has to be made that way. O<strong>the</strong>r ways of<br />

indicating Champagne Process include Method Traditional, Naturally-<br />

Fermented-in-This-Bottle, Cava, and more. And all of <strong>the</strong>se wines are<br />

finished “Brut.”<br />

There is ano<strong>the</strong>r important category to consider and that is Bubbles for<br />

Blending. We’ll get that handled first.<br />

The list below are all wines I have tasted and drunk - in some cases a bit<br />

too much of – over <strong>the</strong> last few months. At <strong>the</strong>ir price points, <strong>the</strong>y all come<br />

very highly recommended. Do I have any particular favorites? Yes. These are<br />

<strong>the</strong>m. Variety is good. You may love a particular Champagne but you don’t<br />

want to drink <strong>the</strong> same wine every day. Cheers.<br />

BUBBLES for BLENDING<br />

Sometimes your sparkling pleasure is found in a sparkling wine-based<br />

cocktail. Here <strong>the</strong> bubbling requirements are a bit different. The<br />

<strong>champagne</strong> process adds a lot of yeast flavor to bubbly which is great for<br />

drinking wines but sometimes (maybe most times) gets in <strong>the</strong> way in<br />

bubbly for blending. Sparkling wines to be used for cocktails need to be<br />

cleaner tasting and so can be simpler and cheaper. What sort of cocktails?<br />

While <strong>the</strong>re is such a thing as a Champagne Cocktail (Champagne poured<br />

over a bitters soaked sugar cube – no, it’s not my favorite ei<strong>the</strong>r), what I am<br />

suggesting here is more Champagne and … by which I mean sparkling<br />

wine and ano<strong>the</strong>r ingredient. The o<strong>the</strong>r ingredient can be any one of a<br />

number of crèmes or liqueurs or it can be fruit juice. The most common of<br />

<strong>the</strong>se are Kir Royales (Bubbly and Cassis) and Mimosas (Fizz and Orange<br />

Juice). Variations on <strong>the</strong> booze side include substituting Chambord<br />

(Raspberry), Crème de Mure (Blackberry), or Crème Violette (violet<br />

liqueur). Variations on <strong>the</strong> fruit juice side include peach nectar (a Bellini) or<br />

passion fruit juice. Here are my Bubbles for Blending …<br />

MUSCANTI Sparkling Brut, Penedes (Spain), NV (12x750ml $6.99<br />

$79.08)<br />

ALAN CHRISTOPHER Blanc de Blancs Sparkling, France, NV<br />

(12x750ml $7.99 $89.52)<br />

ZONIN Prosecco (Italy) NV (12x750ml $9.99 $112.88)<br />

BASIC BUBBLES<br />

It’s not that <strong>the</strong> Bubbles for Blending aren’t good enough to drink. They are.<br />

But <strong>the</strong>y are made using <strong>the</strong> Charmat Process. These are made using methode<br />

champenoise and so have that extra dimension of yeast that comes from bottle<br />

fermentation and some extra time aging in <strong>the</strong> bottle. While some of <strong>the</strong>se are<br />

cheap enough to blend, <strong>the</strong>y all have <strong>the</strong> extra dimension and are more than<br />

good enough to serve on <strong>the</strong>ir own. Just remember that you do get what you<br />

pay for. Even though <strong>the</strong> Perelada Cava is fine, <strong>the</strong> Montsarra Cava - at<br />

almost twice <strong>the</strong> price - is better.<br />

CASTILLO PERELADA Brut Reserva, Cava (Spain), NV (12x750ml $7.99<br />

$90.00)<br />

VARICHON & CLERC Blanc de Blancs Sparkling, France, NV (12x750ml<br />

$11.39 $128.25)<br />

GRUET Brut, New Mexico, NV (12x750ml $12.99 $142.56)<br />

GRUET Blanc de Noirs, New Mexico, NV (12x750ml $12.99 $142.56)<br />

GLORIA FERRER Brut, Carneros, NV (12x750ml $12.99 $144.54)<br />

MONTSARRA Brut, Cava (Spain), NV (12x750ml $14.99 $168.84)<br />

ROEDERER ESTATE Brut, Anderson Valley, NV (12x750ml $19.29<br />

$210.60)<br />

FINER FIZZ<br />

$20 is a hard line to cross. A lot of people come to Spec’s and say <strong>the</strong>y want a<br />

good fill-in-<strong>the</strong>-blank under $20 and <strong>the</strong>y mean it. Under $20. And we know<br />

this so we try to keep as much as we can priced under $20. That price point is<br />

in fact <strong>the</strong> subject of a lot of <strong>the</strong> negotiating I do. But sometimes it can’t be<br />

done. Never<strong>the</strong>less, <strong>the</strong>re is a reward for stepping across <strong>the</strong> $20 line. Think<br />

of <strong>the</strong> first three of <strong>the</strong>se “Finer Fizz” picks as your reward for taking that<br />

small step up. Looking at this list, I realize that I drink ALL of <strong>the</strong>se on an all<br />

too regular basis. The Jansz Rosé won <strong>the</strong> Houston Livestock Show and<br />

Rodeo’s “Top Sparkling Wine Award” a couple of years back. Laetitia Rosé has<br />

won it as well. The Gosset Brut Excellence won it this year. JP Marniquet<br />

Brut Tradition (an estate bottled or RM - Recoltant Manipulant - Champagne)<br />

may be <strong>the</strong> best value in a real Champagne we sell. Bonnaire,<br />

Delamotte, Cazanove, and Demoiselle (sounds like a French law firm) grace<br />

my glass on a regular basis. For me, this is <strong>the</strong> sweet spot.<br />

JANSZ Brut Rosé, Tasmania, NV (6x750ml $20.79 $115.83)<br />

JANSZ Brut, Tasmania, NV (6x750ml $20.89 $117.71)<br />

Domaine CARNEROS Brut, Carneros, 2008 (12x750ml $20.89 $250.68)<br />

LAETITIA Brut Rosé, Arroyo Grande (California), 2007 (12x750ml<br />

$25.49 $286.94)<br />

PANNIER Brut Tradition, Champagne, NV (12x750ml $26.99 $304.32)<br />

JP MARNIQUET Brut Tradition, Champagne, NV (6x750ml $29.44<br />

$331.32)<br />

BONNAIRE Brut, Champagne, NV (12x750ml $34.99 $393.96)<br />

GOSSET Brut Excellence, Champagne, NV (12x750ml $37.79 $424.56)<br />

DELAMOTTE Brut de Mesnil, Champagne, NV (6x750ml $37.99<br />

$209.79)<br />

Charles de CAZANOVE Brut 1er cru, Champagne, NV (6x750ml $37.99<br />

$213.89)<br />

DEMOISELLE Tete de Cuvee Brut, Champagne, NV (12x750ml $39.89<br />

$449.16)<br />

Continues on Page 2


PAGE 2<br />

SPECIAL SPARKLERS<br />

There was a reward for crossing <strong>the</strong> $20 threshold and so <strong>the</strong>re also is a<br />

reward for crossing <strong>the</strong> $40 threshold. Lancelot Royer is a single village<br />

(Cramant) estate bottled Champagne from a top grower. Andre Clouet and<br />

Forget Brimont are both smaller negociants who work like estate bottlers<br />

except <strong>the</strong>y buy in some grapes (not juice and certainly not wine but grapes –<br />

it makes a difference). The Jean Laurent is an all Pinot grower Champagne.<br />

And so on … At <strong>the</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r end of <strong>the</strong> list, Taittinger Brut Millesime (vintage)<br />

is like that old jacket that you’ve owned for years that feels so good every time<br />

you slip it on. In <strong>the</strong> middle, Bollinger Special Cuvee really is. Special, that is.<br />

LANCELOT ROYER “Cuvee RR” Brut Blanc de Blancs, Champagne, NV<br />

(12x750ml $40.84 $459.55)<br />

ANDRE CLOUET Brut Champagne NV (12x750ml) $41.79 $472.92)<br />

FORGET BRIMONT Brut 1er cru, Champagne, NV (12x750ml $42.74<br />

$484.58)<br />

JEAN LAURENT Blanc de Noirs, Champagne, NV (12x750ml) $44.64<br />

$503.16)<br />

LANCELOT ROYER “Cuvee des Chevaliers” Brut Blanc de Blancs Grand<br />

Cru Cramant, Champagne, NV (12x750ml $47.99 $540.36)<br />

CHARLES HEIDSIECK Brut Reserve, Champagne, NV (6x750ml)<br />

$48.79 $274.44)<br />

GEOFFROY Cuvee Expression, Champagne, NV (12x750ml $52.79<br />

$594.38)<br />

PASCAL DOQUET Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs, Champagne, NV<br />

(12x750ml $52.99 $596.87)<br />

BOLLINGER Special Cuvee Brut, Champagne, NV (6x750ml $55.59<br />

$304.50)<br />

PIERRE PETERS Cuvee de Reserve Brut, Champagne, NV (12x750ml<br />

$57.39 $638.82)<br />

GODME Brut Rose Grand Cru, Champagne, NV (12x750ml $60.79<br />

$688.08)<br />

LOUIS de SACY “Grand Soir” Champagne, NV (6x750ml $64.59<br />

$361.20)<br />

TAITTINGER Brut Millesime, Champagne, 2005 (6x750ml $80.74<br />

$455.96)<br />

LUXE<br />

I wrote about Luxe Champagnes a couple of weeks back. You could look it<br />

up (http://www.specsonline.com/pdf/LuxeChampagne_1.pdf). I don’t have a<br />

lot more to add o<strong>the</strong>r than that I LOVE drinking <strong>the</strong>se wines. Here <strong>the</strong><br />

Delamotte Blanc de Blancs vintage and <strong>the</strong> Barons Rothschild Brut are <strong>the</strong><br />

reward for passing $90. For me, Krug Grand Cuvee is <strong>the</strong> reference standard.<br />

And that 1996 Dom Perignon “Oeno<strong>the</strong>que” is as good as anything I have<br />

EVER put in my mouth.<br />

DELAMOTTE Blanc de Blancs, Champagne, 2002 (6x750ml $90.79<br />

$499.50)<br />

BARONS ROTHSCHILD Brut, Champagne, NV (6x750ml $94.99<br />

$534.36)<br />

PIERRE PETERS “Les Chetillions” Brut, Champagne, 2005 (12x750ml<br />

$104.49 $1178.52)<br />

BARONS ROTHSCHILD Blanc de Blancs, Champagne, NV (6x750ml<br />

$118.74 $668.68)<br />

BARONS ROTHSCHILD Rosé, Champagne, NV (6x750ml $118.74<br />

$668.68)<br />

BOLLINGER Grande Annee Champagne, 2002 (6x750ml $120.64<br />

$680.69)<br />

PIERRE PETERS “Les Chetillons” Brut, Champagne, 2004 (12x750ml<br />

$124.99 $1409.10)<br />

KRUG Grand Cuvee, Champagne, NV (6x750ml $141.89 $777.60)<br />

DOM PERIGNON Rosé, Champagne, 2000 (3x750ml $316.79<br />

$867.51)<br />

SALON “Le Mesnil” Champagne, 1999 (3x750ml $324.39 $913.17)<br />

DOM PERIGNON “Oeno<strong>the</strong>que” Brut, Champagne, 1996 (6x750ml<br />

$347.69 $1905.12)<br />

Bubbly Basics<br />

The Simple Hows, Whats and Whys of Sparkling Wine<br />

My wife told me that last week’s Champagne Primer was too technical and<br />

used too much jargon. Here are <strong>the</strong> basics on bubbly with <strong>the</strong> tech stuff<br />

toned-down and/or more explained and a minimum of jargon …<br />

What is Sparkling Wine?<br />

Whe<strong>the</strong>r it is called Champagne, Cava, or Cremant, whe<strong>the</strong>r “bubbles”,<br />

“foam”, “sparkles” or “fizz”, sparkling wine is just wine with carbonation<br />

(CO2 or carbon-dioxide gas). There are several ways to get carbon dioxide<br />

into a wine. It could be as simple as injecting CO2 into a tank full of wine<br />

(as is done with soda pop) or as complex as <strong>the</strong> Champagne process<br />

(Méthode Champenoise). Though it is possible, I don’t know of any<br />

currently available sparklers that were just carbonated like soda pop;<br />

everything currently in <strong>the</strong> market became carbonated via a second<br />

fermentation in a sealed vessel.<br />

The very first sparkling wines were products of circumstance. The wea<strong>the</strong>r<br />

would get cold enough to stop <strong>the</strong> yeast from working before <strong>the</strong> fermentation<br />

was complete. Once <strong>the</strong> winemaker had seen that <strong>the</strong> yeast stopped<br />

working for a period of time, he would go ahead and bottle <strong>the</strong> wine. Once<br />

<strong>the</strong> bottled wine warmed up in <strong>the</strong> spring, <strong>the</strong> fermentation would restart<br />

as <strong>the</strong> formerly dormant yeast reactivated and finished converting some or<br />

all of <strong>the</strong> remaining sugar to alcohol, carbon-dioxide, and heat. Since <strong>the</strong><br />

CO2 is trapped in <strong>the</strong> bottle, it “dissolves” into <strong>the</strong> wine and <strong>the</strong> wine<br />

becomes sparkling.<br />

As appreciation for <strong>the</strong> results of <strong>the</strong>se “accidental bubblies” grew (people<br />

liked bubbles in <strong>the</strong>ir wine), winemakers tried to initiate and control <strong>the</strong><br />

circumstances that caused <strong>the</strong>m. This lead to <strong>the</strong> first intentional sparkling<br />

wines made using what is now called méthode ancestrale. The key to this<br />

and all quality sparkling wines is a second fermentation (or <strong>the</strong> second stage<br />

of an arrested fermentation) happening in a closed vessel with enough<br />

structural integrity to withstand <strong>the</strong> pressure of <strong>the</strong> CO2 generated.<br />

Méthode ancestrale gradually evolved in <strong>the</strong> Champagne area into <strong>the</strong><br />

Champagne process which we now call Méthode Champenoise. Well, at<br />

least we can call it that in reference to Champagne. The Champenoise (<strong>the</strong><br />

Champagne producers) are picky about o<strong>the</strong>rs using <strong>the</strong>ir name so <strong>the</strong> same<br />

process is called méthode traditionelle in o<strong>the</strong>r parts of France and may be<br />

called o<strong>the</strong>r things in many o<strong>the</strong>r countries.<br />

As producers sought to improve or simplify <strong>the</strong> Méthode Champenoise,<br />

o<strong>the</strong>r formal processes based on a closed second fermentation evolved. The<br />

most common is <strong>the</strong> Charmat process. The Transfer Method used to have<br />

some followers but it seems to be going away. In any case, how <strong>the</strong> gas gets<br />

into <strong>the</strong> wine and how <strong>the</strong> wine is treated once it is <strong>the</strong>re both have more<br />

than a little bit to do with <strong>the</strong> quality and flavor of <strong>the</strong> wine. Here are<br />

outlines of <strong>the</strong> four main techniques in order of <strong>the</strong>ir evolution.<br />

Méthode Ancestrale<br />

Méthode ancestrale, also known as méthode rurale, méthode artisnale, or<br />

méthode Gaillacois, replicates what happens when sparkling wine is made<br />

naturally by circumstance. To create effervescence using <strong>the</strong> Méthode<br />

ancestrale, fermentation is temporarily stopped by chilling <strong>the</strong> fermenting<br />

juice - called “must” - to a temperature cold enough to make <strong>the</strong> yeasts<br />

inactive. The chilled, partially fermented must is <strong>the</strong>n bottled cold and <strong>the</strong><br />

fermentation process allowed to resume as <strong>the</strong> bottled wine warms up. The<br />

by-products of this fermentation (and all sugar-to-alcohol fermentations)<br />

are heat - which transfers out of <strong>the</strong> wine and bottle - and carbon dioxide -<br />

which cannot escape <strong>the</strong> sealed bottle and so creates bubbles in <strong>the</strong> bottled<br />

wine. Méthode ancestrale sparkling wines are often cloudy unless <strong>the</strong>y are<br />

processed fur<strong>the</strong>r to remove <strong>the</strong> sediments left by <strong>the</strong> fermentation and<br />

dead yeasts.<br />

Very few wines, mainly those from Limoux and Gaillac, are still made<br />

using méthode ancestrale. In general, it has been replaced by Méthode<br />

Champenoise for higher-quality bubbly or by <strong>the</strong> Charmat process for<br />

cheaper fizz.<br />

CONTINUES ON PAGE 3


PAGE 3<br />

Méthode Champenoise<br />

As <strong>the</strong> name indicates, <strong>the</strong> Champagne process or Méthode Champenoise<br />

evolved in France’s Champagne region. Champagne started off as still wine -<br />

sometimes red, sometimes white, sometimes pink - that nature occasionally<br />

made fizzy by circumstance. The original attempts to control that circumstance<br />

closely approximate <strong>the</strong> méthode ancestrale described before.<br />

Méthode Champenoise as it is today is <strong>the</strong> evolved process by which <strong>the</strong><br />

Champagne producers artificially and consistently generate a predictable<br />

frothy outcome. What follows is a description of <strong>the</strong> Champagne process or<br />

méthode traditionelle as it is used in Champagne and around <strong>the</strong> world.<br />

Méthode Champenoise starts in <strong>the</strong> vineyard. The process requires high acid,<br />

physiologically mature grapes with low sugar contents. Champagne<br />

producers use Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier, and Chardonnay but <strong>the</strong> process<br />

will work with most any grape varieties. Alsace producers use Pinot Blanc<br />

and Loire producers use Chenin Blanc and Cabernet Franc. In Spain, Cava<br />

producers use mostly Parellada, Macabeo, and Xarel-lo, sometimes with some<br />

Chardonnay.<br />

Picking begins when <strong>the</strong> grapes reach 18 to 20% sugar and still have very<br />

high acid levels. After picking, <strong>the</strong> better producers practice a hand sorting,<br />

or triage, of <strong>the</strong> clusters to remove any rotten or damaged grapes.<br />

Once in <strong>the</strong> winery, <strong>the</strong> grapes are pressed in ei<strong>the</strong>r <strong>the</strong> traditional basket<br />

press or <strong>the</strong> more modern bladder press. In ei<strong>the</strong>r case, <strong>the</strong> object is to<br />

remove <strong>the</strong> juice from <strong>the</strong> skins as quickly as possible so as to eliminate<br />

extraction of color (anthocyans) and tannin. The juice is <strong>the</strong>n allowed to<br />

settle and clarify in preparation for <strong>the</strong> primary fermentation. The initial<br />

fermentation is usually carried out in temperature-controlled tanks to insure<br />

a fresh, non-oxidized result. A very few producers still barrel-ferment a<br />

portion or even all of <strong>the</strong>ir wines. After <strong>the</strong> newly fermented wine falls bright<br />

(drops its deposit of cloudy sediments), it is kept in large tanks until needed<br />

for a particular blend. Most, but certainly not all of <strong>the</strong>se base wines go<br />

through a full malo-lactic fermentation while in tanks or barrels. The result<br />

of this first fermentation is a thin, acidic, bone dry, low alcohol, usually white<br />

wine. It is <strong>the</strong> raw material from which sparkling wine is made.<br />

Blending <strong>the</strong> wine that will undergo <strong>the</strong> second fermentation to make it<br />

bubbly requires a special skill. The blender has to predict what a blend of<br />

<strong>the</strong>se virtually undrinkable base wines will taste like after ano<strong>the</strong>r fermentation,<br />

aging in <strong>the</strong> bottle, and <strong>the</strong> addition of a sweetening dose of sugar.<br />

Once <strong>the</strong> blender decides on <strong>the</strong> blend, or cuvee, it is assembled in large<br />

quantities and bottled.<br />

As <strong>the</strong> cuvee is bottled, a carefully proportioned mixture of sugar and<br />

yeast known as <strong>the</strong> liqueur de tirage is added to it. The yeast ferments <strong>the</strong><br />

sugar and, as in all fermentations, produces alcohol, carbon-dioxide, and<br />

heat. The alcohol brings <strong>the</strong> alcohol content of <strong>the</strong> Champagne to <strong>the</strong> desired<br />

level. The heat passes through <strong>the</strong> glass and out of <strong>the</strong> bottle without any<br />

effect. The carbon dioxide is trapped in <strong>the</strong> bottle and dissolves into <strong>the</strong><br />

wine.<br />

When this second fermentation is completed, <strong>the</strong> spent yeast falls to <strong>the</strong><br />

side of <strong>the</strong> bottle where it breaks down in a process called autolysis and gives<br />

<strong>the</strong> distinctive yeasty-toasty-bready-doughy character to <strong>the</strong> wine. In<br />

Champagne, this en tirage (on <strong>the</strong> yeast) aging process must continue for a<br />

minimum of one-and-one-half years for <strong>the</strong> wine to be called Champagne.<br />

Some producers will shake <strong>the</strong> aging bottles to stir-up <strong>the</strong> yeast sediment and<br />

aid extraction. Some producers will continue this aging process for ten or<br />

more years to draw out <strong>the</strong> most yeast character possible. Some will age <strong>the</strong><br />

wine six months or less. It all depends on <strong>the</strong> producing area’s regulations –<br />

or lack of <strong>the</strong>m.<br />

Riddling and disgorgement are <strong>the</strong> processes by which <strong>the</strong> yeast and<br />

sediments are removed from <strong>the</strong> bottle to yield a bright, clear wine. Riddling<br />

may now be done by hand or machine. Ei<strong>the</strong>r way <strong>the</strong> process uses sharp<br />

twists and gravity to slide all <strong>the</strong> sediments into <strong>the</strong> neck of <strong>the</strong> bottle.<br />

Disgorgement is <strong>the</strong> way <strong>the</strong> neck is <strong>the</strong>n cleared of <strong>the</strong> sediment. The neck<br />

of <strong>the</strong> bottle is dipped into freezing brine which causes <strong>the</strong> wine in <strong>the</strong> neck<br />

to freeze into a plug of ice containing <strong>the</strong> sediment. The bottle is <strong>the</strong>n<br />

opened and <strong>the</strong> pressure of <strong>the</strong> dissolved carbon-dioxide gas causes <strong>the</strong><br />

sediment-filled ice plug to shoot out.<br />

Once <strong>the</strong> sediment is gone, <strong>the</strong> liqueur d’expedition containing <strong>the</strong><br />

dosage is added, <strong>the</strong> wine is topped up, and <strong>the</strong> bottle is corked with its<br />

final closure. The dosage is a small amount of sugar that is added to <strong>the</strong><br />

bone dry product of <strong>the</strong> second fermentation to bring out a little more fruit<br />

flavor and balance <strong>the</strong> crisp acidity. The sugar for <strong>the</strong> dosage is dissolved in<br />

a liquid called <strong>the</strong> liqueur d’expedition which may consist of a number of<br />

different things. Different producers use varying blends of old or young<br />

wines sparkling or still (some in oak), unfermented grape must, and even<br />

brandy. As this medium for <strong>the</strong> dosage has an enormous influence on <strong>the</strong><br />

character of <strong>the</strong> finished product, <strong>the</strong> exact mixture of <strong>the</strong> liqueur<br />

d’expedition used by each producer is a closely guarded trade secret.<br />

After <strong>the</strong> dosage is added, <strong>the</strong> wine is ready to be corked and to have its<br />

wire harness, labels, and top dressing applied. The sealed bottle is <strong>the</strong>n<br />

shaken to better mix <strong>the</strong> liqueur d’expedition and dosage with <strong>the</strong> new<br />

Champagne and left to rest for a time to allow <strong>the</strong> disparate elements to<br />

merge. Wines that undergo this full process in <strong>the</strong> bottle in which <strong>the</strong>y are<br />

ultimately sold may be labeled “Naturally Fermented in This Bottle.”<br />

The Transfer Process<br />

The transfer process follows Methode Champanoise up to <strong>the</strong> point of<br />

riddling and disgorgement. Instead of using those techniques, <strong>the</strong> transfer<br />

process wines are deeply chilled (but not frozen), opened, and filtered<br />

under pressure to remove <strong>the</strong> sediments. After filtering, <strong>the</strong> wine is bottled,<br />

and <strong>the</strong> dosage is added. The process removes <strong>the</strong> most labor-intensive part<br />

of <strong>the</strong> Champagne process. Transfer wines are good for shorter term<br />

drinking but do not have <strong>the</strong> longevity of comparable base wines put<br />

through <strong>the</strong> Champagne process. Due to <strong>the</strong> bottle fermentation and <strong>the</strong><br />

potential for en triage aging in <strong>the</strong> bottle, transfer process bubblies can have<br />

much of <strong>the</strong> toasty yeasty-character of Champagne process sparkling wines.<br />

The transfer process was widely used in <strong>the</strong> 1960s and 1970s but is little<br />

seen today. From years past, Paul Masson and Taylor New York State have<br />

used <strong>the</strong> transfer process. The wines may be labeled “Naturally Fermented<br />

in The Bottle”; note <strong>the</strong> “<strong>the</strong>” used instead of “this” used in Methode<br />

Champenoise.<br />

The Charmat Process<br />

The Charmat process (also called cuvee close) mimics <strong>the</strong> Champagne<br />

process in that <strong>the</strong> base wines undergo a second fermentation in a<br />

pressurized sealed container. In this case, that container typically holds<br />

hundreds or even thousands of gallons of wine instead of <strong>the</strong> 750ml or 1.5L<br />

in a typical bottle used in <strong>the</strong> Champagne or transfer processes. Once <strong>the</strong><br />

second fermentation is over, <strong>the</strong> now sparkling wine is filtered and bottled<br />

with <strong>the</strong> addition of <strong>the</strong> dosage. Because of <strong>the</strong> speed with which Charmat<br />

process sparklers are made, <strong>the</strong>re is rarely any yeast character that makes it<br />

into <strong>the</strong> finished wine.<br />

The Charmat process is used for <strong>the</strong> lowest priced US Sparkling wines<br />

(Andre, Cook’s, Cribari, Franzia, etc.) as well as for all Italian Prosecco and<br />

Asti Spumante. For <strong>the</strong>se Italian specialities, <strong>the</strong> transfer process can offer<br />

an advantage, as <strong>the</strong> toasty-yeasty flavors of Méthode Champenoise might<br />

interfere with <strong>the</strong> fruit flavors of <strong>the</strong> wine.<br />

CONTINUES ON PAGE 4


PAGE 4<br />

How Dry is Your Champagne?<br />

For a complete historical explanation, please see “How dry is Extra Dry?”<br />

in <strong>the</strong> Bear’s Champagne Primer in <strong>the</strong> 12-3-07 edition of SPEC’s<br />

UPDATE.<br />

Sec or “Dry” is <strong>the</strong> original style of Champagne. These wines run in <strong>the</strong><br />

2-4% residual sugar range. While today we don’t consider <strong>the</strong>m dry, <strong>the</strong>y<br />

were what was available and were very popular in <strong>the</strong> late 18th and early<br />

19th centuries. Sec is now defined in <strong>the</strong> Champagne regulations as a<br />

range of from 1.7% to 3.4% RS. Sec tastes from off dry to pleasantly<br />

sweet but it is still in balance. Although hard to find, Sec is ideal with<br />

spicier foods and can be super with ham and melon. The fashion is now<br />

for much drier wine but good quality Sec Champagne remains useful at<br />

<strong>the</strong> table.<br />

Extra Dry was originally made for a British market that wanted a<br />

Champagne drier than Sec. (The producers obliged, reducing <strong>the</strong> sugar of<br />

<strong>the</strong> dosage to about 1.8% with a range from 1.2% to 2%). They thought<br />

<strong>the</strong> wine wouldn’t sell anywhere but England so <strong>the</strong>y used <strong>the</strong> English<br />

words “Extra Dry” ra<strong>the</strong>r than <strong>the</strong> French “ultra sec” to describe <strong>the</strong> new<br />

style in <strong>the</strong> official regulations. Within a few years, <strong>the</strong> new Extra Dry had<br />

surpassed Sec to became <strong>the</strong> best selling style of Champagne. Although it<br />

doesn’t say “Extra Dry” on <strong>the</strong> label, Moet & Chandon’s Extra Dry<br />

“White Star” is <strong>the</strong> world’s best selling Champagne.<br />

Brut was created in <strong>the</strong> 1890s when <strong>the</strong> Paris restaurants requested a style<br />

of Champagne drier than Extra Dry. Again <strong>the</strong> Champagne producers<br />

obliged (this time reducing <strong>the</strong> sugar dose to a mere 1% or so for a dry but<br />

still balanced taste) but, again, <strong>the</strong>y thought this new, very dry style was<br />

going to be a passing fad. Within a few years, Brut had supplanted Extra<br />

Dry as <strong>the</strong> best selling style of Champagne. The Champagne regulations<br />

now define Brut in a range of from .6% to 1.5% RS.<br />

Natural, Cuvee sans Dosage, Ultra Brut, Brut Nature, Extra Brut, and<br />

Brut Sauvage are all names for Champagne made drier than Brut. The<br />

style evolved as Champagne with little or no dosage. These bone-dry<br />

cuvees were given different names by different producers. Most properly,<br />

Extra Brut indicates a very low dosage and Brut Nature or Natural<br />

indicates no dosage. In <strong>the</strong> Champagne regulations, <strong>the</strong>y all indicate a<br />

dosage of .5% or below – very dry indeed as <strong>the</strong> recognition threshold for<br />

most people is around .7% for sugar. This driest of all styles did not take<br />

off as had its predecessors and now enjoys only a limited but higher end<br />

(and by some highly regarded) market niche.<br />

Demi-Sec and Doux, <strong>the</strong> two sweetest styles of sparkling wine, were<br />

developed for o<strong>the</strong>r markets including Switzerland and Russia. Demi-Sec<br />

(or “semi-dry”) builds on <strong>the</strong> sweetness of Sec with an in-<strong>the</strong>-regulations<br />

dosage level ranging from 3.5% to 5% RS. Demi-Sec, if purpose-made<br />

and in balance, can be delightful when served with spicier or mildly sweet<br />

dishes. This is becoming more common as more houses are purposemaking<br />

wines for Demi-Sec ra<strong>the</strong>r than merely adding more sugar to <strong>the</strong>ir<br />

Extra Dry or Brut cuvees. Doux (pronounced “dew”) is <strong>the</strong> sweetest style<br />

of Champagne with a dosage that is required to exceed 5% RS. While I<br />

have tasted a couple of Doux Champagnes in France (<strong>the</strong>y weren’t very<br />

good), I have never seen a bottle for sale in <strong>the</strong> US. Doux fails because<br />

<strong>the</strong>re is too much sugar for <strong>the</strong> amount of acidity in <strong>the</strong> wine.<br />

Rosé Bubblies<br />

Rosé sparkling wine is now more popular than ever before and its so far<br />

mostly wine-geekish fans are serving it with lots of different foods. Rosé<br />

Champagne has been around for centuries. Originally, it was made from<br />

all or mostly all black grapes - Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier in Champagne<br />

- and it picked up its very variable color from <strong>the</strong> skins of those<br />

grapes during <strong>the</strong> time <strong>the</strong> juice was in <strong>the</strong> press and perhaps for a few<br />

hours toge<strong>the</strong>r with <strong>the</strong> skins in a tank. From a flavor standpoint, this may<br />

be <strong>the</strong> best way but this skin contact method of making rosé (called rapid<br />

cuvaison) has fallen from favor. It is too hard to control <strong>the</strong> color and get a<br />

consistent result in aromatics and flavor. Almost all Rosé sparkling wine is<br />

now made by blending a bit of red wine into a white base wine before <strong>the</strong><br />

second (in <strong>the</strong> bottle) fermentation or - less commonly - as part of <strong>the</strong><br />

dosage. This gives <strong>the</strong> winemaker more control over <strong>the</strong> final flavor of <strong>the</strong><br />

fizz as well as a more consistent and predictable color result.<br />

For a long time, Rosé sparklers were as out of favor as dry still rosé from <strong>the</strong><br />

south of France, Spain, or Portugal. At <strong>the</strong> same time that still Rosé has<br />

become popular again, Rosé bubbly has made a huge comeback. Pink<br />

Champagne now enjoys its largest market ever. While <strong>the</strong> initial attraction of<br />

Rosé sparkling wine may be <strong>the</strong> festive color, <strong>the</strong> avid consumer quickly<br />

realizes that <strong>the</strong> extra richness and earthiness (not to mention <strong>the</strong> vinosity or<br />

wine-like character) imparted by <strong>the</strong> addition of red wine makes pink fizz<br />

work better at <strong>the</strong> table with a wider range of foods. Many wine lovers feel that<br />

Rosé bubbly is THE fizz for food.<br />

Some Bubbly Buzz Words<br />

Autolysis is <strong>the</strong> breakdown of yeast cells inside <strong>the</strong> sparkling wine bottle after<br />

<strong>the</strong> second fermentation is completed. It contributes to <strong>the</strong> wine's complexity<br />

and elegance as it layers in bread/yeast/toast/pie-crust/marzipan aromas and<br />

flavors.<br />

Blanc de Blancs are traditionally made wines made from 100% white grapes.<br />

In <strong>the</strong> highest quality areas, this means Chardonnay. Some producers are now<br />

calling wines with just a predominance of white grapes “Blanc de Blancs”.<br />

Blanc de Noirs are traditionally made from 100% black grapes. In <strong>the</strong> highest<br />

quality areas, this means Pinot Noir and maybe Pinot Meunier. Some<br />

producers are now calling wines with just a predominance of black grapes<br />

“Blanc de Noirs”.<br />

Cava is Spanish Sparkling wine made using <strong>the</strong> Champagne process in <strong>the</strong><br />

delimited but not contiguous Cava Zone from grapes including Parellada,<br />

Macabeo, and Xarel-lo along with some Chardonnay and o<strong>the</strong>rs.<br />

Cremant is traditionally a style of Champagne or sparkling wine with<br />

two-thirds <strong>the</strong> effervescence of most Champagne (four as opposed to six<br />

atmospheres of pressure). Cremant has become a term to describe French<br />

Sparkling wines from areas o<strong>the</strong>r than Champagne. Cremant from Alsace and<br />

Burgundy are commonly seen as Cremant d’Alsace (usually made from Pinot<br />

Blanc) and Cremant de Bourgogne (usually made from Pinot Noir and<br />

Chardonnay, often with some Aligoté). Most French Cremants are made using<br />

<strong>the</strong> Champagne process.<br />

Bottle Aging allows sparkling wine to acquire complexity, depth and fine<br />

texture while in bottle; also known as aging "on <strong>the</strong> yeast," or en tirage.<br />

The Cuvee is <strong>the</strong> blend of many parcels of still base wines into <strong>the</strong> base that<br />

will be re-fermented into a well-balanced sparkling wine.<br />

Dosage is <strong>the</strong> sugar added in <strong>the</strong> liqueur d’expedition that sweetens <strong>the</strong><br />

Champagne into balance after riddling and disgorgement.<br />

The Mousse is <strong>the</strong> bubbles rising in <strong>the</strong> glass.<br />

Non-Vintage (or NV) refers to sparkling wines with cuvees containing wine<br />

from previous vintages.<br />

Prosecco is a variety of white grape grown in <strong>the</strong> Conegliano and Valdobbiadene<br />

wine-growing regions north of Venice, Italy, and also gives its name to <strong>the</strong><br />

Charmat Process sparkling wine made from <strong>the</strong> grape. Its late ripening has led<br />

to its use in dry sparkling (spumante) and semi-sparkling (frizzante) wines,<br />

with <strong>the</strong>ir characteristic bitter aftertaste. The name "Prosecco" is now protected<br />

under European law and can be used only for <strong>the</strong> wine made from <strong>the</strong><br />

Prosecco grape in <strong>the</strong> Conegliano/Valdobbiadene region.<br />

The Punt is <strong>the</strong> dome-shaped indentation in <strong>the</strong> bottom of wine bottle.<br />

Reserve wines are wines from previous vintages added to <strong>the</strong> cuvee for<br />

consistent quality and style or to make it richer.<br />

Rosé sparkling wines usually are produced by adding red wine to <strong>the</strong> cuvee,<br />

sometimes with <strong>the</strong> dosage as part of <strong>the</strong> liqueur d’expedition.<br />

Still Wine is wine without bubbles.

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