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What I Tasted on My Spring Break - SPEC's Liquors

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“<str<strong>on</strong>g>What</str<strong>on</strong>g> I <str<strong>on</strong>g>Tasted</str<strong>on</strong>g> <strong>on</strong> <strong>My</strong> <strong>Spring</strong> <strong>Break</strong>” By Charles M. Bear Dalt<strong>on</strong><br />

Bordeaux is back. You might ask “When did it leave” The answer depends <strong>on</strong> what sort of wine<br />

drinker you are. If you love good Bordeaux and are not a slave to the press, good Bordeaux has<br />

been with us almost straight through since 1993. If you follow the Wine Spectator, you might<br />

believe there have <strong>on</strong>ly been three good Bordeaux vintages (1995, 2000, and now 2003) since<br />

1990. If you read Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate (as opposed to just looking at the scores),<br />

you’ve been told that each vintage from 1993 forward has at least something to recommend it. In<br />

my opini<strong>on</strong>, there have been very good, fine, and excellent wines from every vintage from 1993<br />

forward and in most of those vintages, there have been at least a few outstanding wines made.<br />

Tasting Bordeaux<br />

Each year in March, I fly to France and spend 10 to 14 days tasting in Bordeaux, Burgundy, and<br />

the Rh<strong>on</strong>e. <strong>My</strong> trip corresp<strong>on</strong>ds with the Uni<strong>on</strong> des Grandes Crus (UGC) tastings held the last<br />

week of March. While in Bordeaux from Sunday through Friday, I’ll taste 140 to 180 wines a day.<br />

Primarily, I am tasting barrel samples from the most recent vintage. Wherever possible, I re-taste<br />

wines from the previous vintage and the newly bottled wines from <strong>on</strong>e vintage further back. On<br />

this last trip in March of 2004, I was primarily looking at 2003s but also re-tasting 2002s (mostly<br />

still un-bottled) and 2001s. I even got to taste a few 2000s and 1999s. This back-tasting helps<br />

c<strong>on</strong>firm impressi<strong>on</strong>s from earlier visits and helps give me a handle <strong>on</strong> how the vintages are<br />

developing.<br />

These tastings take place at the large events held by the UGC but also in the Bordeaux<br />

negociants’ offices and in tasting rooms at the great chateaux. Each year, I taste at Vintex,<br />

Nathaniel Johnst<strong>on</strong>, Ullysse Cazab<strong>on</strong>e, Borie Manoux, Belland et Meneret, (c<strong>on</strong>tinued p. 2)<br />

If you've been around wine very l<strong>on</strong>g, you've heard<br />

talk about "Bordeaux Futures" and you may have<br />

w<strong>on</strong>dered what the deal is. Is this like the<br />

commodities exchange where c<strong>on</strong>tracts are<br />

repeatedly traded without the actual goods they<br />

represent even moving or being ready to move Or<br />

do people really buy these wines and drink them<br />

The answer is yes...to both. At <strong>on</strong>e level, there is a<br />

fair amount of trading of Bordeaux futures c<strong>on</strong>tracts as<br />

the market for the wines gets str<strong>on</strong>ger and the release<br />

dates approach. At the same time, educated c<strong>on</strong>sumers<br />

use the futures market to insure they are able to get the<br />

rarest wines and get them at the best prices. Here's how it<br />

works...<br />

During the April and May following a vintage, most<br />

Bordeaux chateaux offer a porti<strong>on</strong> of their producti<strong>on</strong> to<br />

the wine brokers in Bordeaux at what is usually their<br />

lowest price. This first offer is called the premiere<br />

traunche, or first slice. These wines are then offered to the<br />

importers and exporters around the world who then offer<br />

them to the local trade—the wine stores and restaurants.<br />

Some restaurants will buy a few cases of rare wines but<br />

most restaurants d<strong>on</strong>'t have the sort of wine programs<br />

where they invest in young Bordeaux to serve years later.<br />

At Spec's, we buy as heavily as possible during this time for<br />

two reas<strong>on</strong>s. One is to buy good quantities of wines in<br />

every price range so we'll have the (c<strong>on</strong>tinued p. 2)<br />

"...do people<br />

really buy<br />

these wines<br />

and drink<br />

them"<br />

With wine, as in anything else, it<br />

helps to know the lingo. Here are<br />

some of the wine terms that relate<br />

specifically to Bordeaux:<br />

CLASSIFIED GROWTH: A chateau<br />

included in <strong>on</strong>e of the classificati<strong>on</strong>s<br />

of Bordeaux. The most famous<br />

classificati<strong>on</strong> is the Classificati<strong>on</strong> of<br />

1855 which grouped the wines of the<br />

Medoc and Ch. Haut Bri<strong>on</strong> into five<br />

classes called “growths.” Graves,<br />

Sauternes, and St. Emili<strong>on</strong> have also<br />

been classified. Pomerol has never<br />

been classified. The top wines from<br />

these top wine growing areas are<br />

grouped together as “Classified<br />

Growths.”<br />

CLASSIFICATION OF 1855: In<br />

1855, the Bordeaux Chamber of<br />

Commerce undertook a formal<br />

classificati<strong>on</strong> of the wines of<br />

Bordeaux which was to be presented<br />

at the Paris World’s Fair. The means<br />

used to make the classificati<strong>on</strong> was to<br />

divide the wines into groups based<br />

<strong>on</strong> the prices at which they routinely<br />

sold. The wines c<strong>on</strong>sidered were the<br />

wines of the Medoc, plus <strong>on</strong>e. Ch.<br />

Haut-Bri<strong>on</strong> of Graves had such a high<br />

reputati<strong>on</strong> that it had to be included<br />

as a “first growth”. The result was<br />

the famous five tiered ranking that is<br />

in use to this day. (c<strong>on</strong>tinued p. 7)<br />

THE VINTAGES....................2<br />

THE DUMB STAGE...............2<br />

A CLOSER LOOK AT 2003....4<br />

WHAT ABOUT 2002s.......4<br />

CIGAR CENTRAL.................5<br />

LOW CARB WINE.............5<br />

THE "G" WORD..................6<br />

2003 FUTURES ...................8<br />

2002 FUTURES.................10<br />

BORDEAUX MAP................11<br />

FAVORITE CHATEAUX.........12<br />

NOTEWORTHY WINES .....14<br />

VINEYARD VISIT................18<br />

FEVERISH WINE..............19<br />

TASTER'S NOTE.................24<br />

GIFT OF GOOD TASTE.......24


www.specs<strong>on</strong>line.com<br />

(c<strong>on</strong>tinued from page 1)<br />

inventory to sell off our racks when the<br />

vintage is shipped. The other is to offer<br />

the best possible prices <strong>on</strong> rare and<br />

expensive wines to our Bordeaux-loving<br />

customers. As we get c<strong>on</strong>firmati<strong>on</strong>s <strong>on</strong><br />

our orders, we offer the wines out for sale<br />

as futures, a way to buy wines that haven't<br />

even been bottled yet. On the wines we've<br />

tasted and like and <strong>on</strong> wines with great<br />

track records, we buy as much as we are<br />

allocated, often at several different prices.<br />

If our customers get hot <strong>on</strong> a particular<br />

wine and we run short or sell out, we go<br />

back and buy more, usually at a higher<br />

price. We then make a sec<strong>on</strong>d offering<br />

reflecting that higher price.<br />

In order to open the futures opportunity to<br />

as many customers as possible, Spec's<br />

offers Bordeaux futures sales <strong>on</strong> bottles and<br />

three-packs as well as the standard twelve<br />

bottle cases. While the price advantage is<br />

not as substantial in the smaller lots, there<br />

is still an edge over what the wines will sell<br />

for <strong>on</strong> arrival. But far and away the main<br />

benefit here is the guarantee of availability.<br />

Single-bottle and three-pack pricing is<br />

available <strong>on</strong>ly <strong>on</strong> 750ml bottles of dry reds<br />

and whites and both <strong>on</strong> 375ml and 750ml<br />

bottles of most Sauternes.<br />

So what's all the fuss about Just that the<br />

futures market insures the savvy Bordeaux<br />

lover a way to buy his favorite wines at the<br />

best prices they'll likely ever sell for, and a<br />

way to insure himself that he will actually<br />

get some of the rarer wines that may never<br />

make it <strong>on</strong>to a rack or shelf in the store.<br />

Is my<br />

1996 Margaux<br />

in the<br />

stage<br />

dumb<br />

“When will my 2001 Ducru enter the<br />

dumb stage When will it emerge” “Will my<br />

1989 Leoville las Cases ever emerge from the<br />

dumb stage” “D<strong>on</strong>’t open that yet, it’s still in<br />

the dumb stage.”<br />

<str<strong>on</strong>g>What</str<strong>on</strong>g>’s the dumb stage It is a period in a<br />

wine’s development where the wine is<br />

undergoing reductive changes in the bottle<br />

as it sheds some of the fresh fruit of its<br />

(c<strong>on</strong>tinued p. 3)<br />

Chateau<br />

Margaux<br />

Bordeaux Report (c<strong>on</strong>tinued from p. 1)<br />

and Bordeaux Millesimes to name a few. I also taste at<br />

many chateaux whose wines are not shown at the<br />

UGC tastings. Each year I go to all the first growths<br />

and many of the sec<strong>on</strong>ds where we taste more than<br />

just that wine. There are sec<strong>on</strong>d and sometimes third<br />

wines to taste as well as associated properties. At<br />

Mout<strong>on</strong>, we also taste Clerc Mil<strong>on</strong> and d’Armailhac, and<br />

at Lafite we also taste Carruades and Duhart Mil<strong>on</strong>. At<br />

Haut Bri<strong>on</strong>, we taste La Chappelle de la Missi<strong>on</strong> (the 2nd<br />

vin of Ch. La Missi<strong>on</strong> Haut Bri<strong>on</strong>), Bahans Haut Bri<strong>on</strong> (the<br />

2nd vin of Ch. Haut Bri<strong>on</strong>), Latour Haut Bri<strong>on</strong>, La Missi<strong>on</strong><br />

Haut Bri<strong>on</strong>, and Haut Bri<strong>on</strong> as well as Laville Haut Bri<strong>on</strong> (the<br />

white wine of La Missi<strong>on</strong>) and Haut Bri<strong>on</strong> Blanc. All in all at Haut<br />

Bri<strong>on</strong>, we taste seven wines from each vintage and we usually taste two<br />

vintages.<br />

This year, the opportunity to re-taste past vintages served me well. The 2001<br />

Ch. Margaux wine had not shown well in 2002 or 2003 and I was frankly a bit<br />

worried that I’d made a mistake in buying it. <strong>My</strong> purchase was based <strong>on</strong> Margaux’s<br />

superb track record and assurances by Margaux director Paul P<strong>on</strong>talier that the wine was just<br />

backward and that it would come around. It finally did come around and is now showing very well,<br />

just in time for release.<br />

At dinners in restaurants and during visits and dinners at chateaux, we always drink older, usually mature<br />

wines. The last few years our Bordeaux dinner wines have included many great wines from 1985, 1986,<br />

1988, 1989, 1990, 1993, 1994, and 1995. We have had the odd 1982 and even a couple of 1991s. The<br />

1991s from Ch. Latour, Ch. Parenchere, and Ch. Segur de Cabannac were shockingly good wines from a<br />

frankly forgettable, very wet vintage.<br />

All this tasting (and drinking) leads to a familiarity with a property that transcends vintage variati<strong>on</strong> as well<br />

as to an understanding of each vintage and where its sub-regi<strong>on</strong>al strengths and weaknesses are. It also<br />

reinforces, for me at least, the noti<strong>on</strong> that I’d usually rather drink the wine from chateau I really like in a<br />

merely good or even mediocre vintage than wine from an also ran property in even a great vintage.<br />

1993 and 1994 were lightly regarded, rain affected vintages that still made very nice, elegant, mediumweight<br />

clarets. Most from the lesser appellati<strong>on</strong>s have already been drunk and that is a good thing as most<br />

of them wouldn’t have lasted. The best wines of these vintages (the top classified growths) are very pretty<br />

wines that in many cases are drinking very well now. Whenever I see good 1994s <strong>on</strong> wine lists, I am<br />

interested. They are often very good values and are always under appreciated.<br />

1995 was a great warm year that made fine wines all over Bordeaux. These were big rich wines somewhat<br />

in the style of 1982 and 1990 featuring ample fruit and flavor with good ripeness and a fairly low level of<br />

acidity. The 1995s tasted good <strong>on</strong> release and while they did descend a bit into the “dumb stage” (please<br />

see side bar The Dumb Stage at left), it was not a deep descent and the wines were enjoyably drinkable.<br />

Many of the age-worthy wines have now emerged and blossomed. While the first growths need a bit more<br />

time for optimum drinking, many of the other classified growths from 1995 are drinking beautifully. Even<br />

a number of petite chateaux are holding up nicely.<br />

1996 was, if you believe James Suckling of the Wine Spectator, a disappointing vintage. Or, if you follow<br />

Robert Parker, 1995 was the greatest Cabernet Sauvign<strong>on</strong> vintage in Bordeaux since World War II. Parker<br />

is correct. While the Merlot-dominated right bank appellati<strong>on</strong>s (Pomerol, St. Emili<strong>on</strong>, etc.) yielded many<br />

very good wines in 1996, it was the Cabernet Sauvign<strong>on</strong>-dominated left bank appellati<strong>on</strong>s (Graves, Medoc,<br />

Margaux, St. Julien, Pauillac, and St. Estephe) that had the potential to make excellent and even<br />

outstanding wines in 1996. I still remember tasting the outstanding 1996 Ch. Margaux in the chateau and<br />

being momentarily transported by the wine. The also outstanding 1996 Ch. Latour out of barrel was so<br />

intense that it was almost painful to hold it in the mouth. All the better 1996 wines were excellent from<br />

the barrel and were excellent <strong>on</strong> their release in 1998 and 1999. Most of the Cabernet-based wines had<br />

enough intensity and acidity that they have slipped firmly into the dumb stage. They are not undrinkable<br />

now but will be so much better with a few more years in the bottle that it seems a shame not to hold them.<br />

1997 made pretty wines that emphasized fresh fruit and perfume with a classic weight and structure. They<br />

are not blockbusters and there was some unevenness in quality attributable to uneven ripeness due to an<br />

extended, uneven flowering period. Some clusters (especially Merlot in St. Emili<strong>on</strong>) had ripe grapes with<br />

some green grapes mixed in so a good triage was important. The 1997s also had the problem of being<br />

released as futures at prices too high for the quality, coming immediately after the excellent 1996s. Since<br />

there have been no price increases (and in fact some discounting) <strong>on</strong> the 1997s from the time they were<br />

sold as futures, the vintage is now reas<strong>on</strong>ably priced and drinking very well. 1997 was an excellent to<br />

outstanding year for the sweet wines from Sauternes and Barsac.


1998 offered a great vintage for the right bank appellati<strong>on</strong>s of St. Emili<strong>on</strong> and Pomerol (as well as<br />

M<strong>on</strong>tagne and Lussac St. Emili<strong>on</strong> Lalande de Pomerol, Fr<strong>on</strong>sac, Cotes de Castill<strong>on</strong>, and Cotes de Francs)<br />

and the left bank Graves red and white wine area (especially wines labeled Pessac-Leognan). These areas<br />

benefited from a combinati<strong>on</strong> of warm weather and early ripening varieties (a lot of Merlot and Cabernet<br />

Franc). 1998 was a fine but not great year for the later ripening left bank Cabernet Sauvign<strong>on</strong>-based<br />

wines. Except for the top Pomerol and St. Emili<strong>on</strong> Chateaux (especially the over-hyped "garagistas"), the<br />

wines were well priced as futures and offered many fine buys. The classically structured 1998s are now<br />

mostly in the dumb stage but the Merlot-based wines are not deep into it and still are showing well. The<br />

best Cabernet-based wines still need time to emerge. These underrated, well-balanced, classically-styled<br />

Margaux, Pauillac, and St. Julien wines will offer excellent drinking beginning in the next couple of years.<br />

1999 is a vintage that was initially underrated by virtually all of the wine press and much of the wine<br />

trade. Almost all of them have revised their opini<strong>on</strong>s upward. 1999 is a very even vintage featuring<br />

elegant, very well balanced wines with lovely fresh fruit flavors. They are a pure pleasure to drink now but<br />

they also are developing nicely and will c<strong>on</strong>tinue to improve. This is a fine vintage to hold or drink while<br />

you are waiting <strong>on</strong> your 1996s, 1998s and 2000s.<br />

2000 is an excellent vintage with very c<strong>on</strong>sistent, very high quality all over Bordeaux. The weather was<br />

excellent and everything got ripe. All the improving vineyard practice and winery wizardry via the<br />

c<strong>on</strong>sulting enologists paid off. Then the hype machine kicked in. It was the vintage of the turn of the<br />

millennium. And Parker loved it. And the Spectator loved it. And the prices, especially <strong>on</strong> the top wines,<br />

shot through the roof as greed and speculati<strong>on</strong> took over. It is a great vintage to hold for 5 to 25 years<br />

depending <strong>on</strong> the chateau. The most hyped wines are way over-priced but that is no different from any<br />

other great vintage. The 2000s are now mostly in stock and most futures purchases have been delivered<br />

(most but not all – we are still waiting <strong>on</strong> a few wines).<br />

2001 is a very even, very good vintage with fine wines made in all areas of Bordeaux. It was a vintage<br />

where properties capable of making balanced, elegant, multi-dimensi<strong>on</strong>al wines excelled and wineries<br />

depending <strong>on</strong> <strong>on</strong>ly ripeness and manipulati<strong>on</strong> did alright but no better than alright. 2001 required some<br />

quality in terroir for the best wines. The wines that are now coming into the market are well balanced with<br />

good fruit and some of 1999s evenness and elegance. They are drinking well now <strong>on</strong> release and should<br />

c<strong>on</strong>tinue to drink very well as young wines over the next year or so. They mostly likely then will go dumb<br />

and require some patience before they blossom at the end of the dumb stage. As they are balanced and not<br />

too extracted, they should not go too dumb and most will remain drinkable as they develop. 2001 was<br />

reas<strong>on</strong>ably priced and bought with str<strong>on</strong>g dollars so, like the 1999s these wines represent fine values. In<br />

additi<strong>on</strong> to its many fine and excellent dry red and white wines, 2001 was an excellent Sauternes vintage<br />

2002 is a vintage where the terroir sh<strong>on</strong>e like few others. If you taste and c<strong>on</strong>sider <strong>on</strong>ly the top 80 to 100<br />

wines (mostly - but not exclusively - from the left bank) that are the product of great terroir, 2002 is an<br />

excellent to outstanding vintage. If you c<strong>on</strong>sider <strong>on</strong>ly the other several hundred chateaux that do not<br />

possess great terroir or were not in the right weather patterns, 2002 could be a mediocre to poor vintage.<br />

It really is a vintage of haves and have-nots where it was very important to taste before buying. Spec’s<br />

offered fewer 2002s as futures than any vintage since 1994 but those 2002s that we bought and offered we<br />

can endorse unequivically. The 2002s, still available as futures, were bought with str<strong>on</strong>g dollars and the<br />

hype machine never really kicked in so they are excellent values, especially when compared to the 2003s<br />

now being offered as futures.<br />

The 2003 vintage was <strong>on</strong>e of the hottest <strong>on</strong> record. It was so hot that some areas where the<br />

early ripening Merlot is the dominant grape variety suffered severe heat stress and could<br />

not make good wines. Ch. Le Pin was unable to even produce a crop and Vieux Ch.<br />

Certan produced <strong>on</strong>ly 800 cases instead of its usual 4000 (although that 800 cases<br />

is excellent). However, those properties with the right terroir and the right<br />

grapes planted made excellent wines that were very easy to taste and<br />

evaluate. The top Cabernet Sauvign<strong>on</strong>-based wines show a stylistic<br />

similarity to 1990 and 1982. For these (mostly left bank) wines, 2003 is<br />

an excellent to outstanding vintage where even wines from the<br />

northern, cooler areas of the Medoc had fine to excellent potential.<br />

The bad news is that the Bordeaux wine press hype machine has<br />

kicked in and some wineries took ridiculous price increases. The<br />

worse news is that the dollar is as weak as it has ever been against<br />

the Euro which has caused prices in dollars to rise even further.<br />

These wines are not cheap but like 1990 and 1982, they will<br />

provide c<strong>on</strong>sistently pleasurable drinking for many years to come.<br />

View from<br />

St. Julien;<br />

Ch. Pich<strong>on</strong> Bar<strong>on</strong> <strong>on</strong> left and<br />

Pich<strong>on</strong> Lalande <strong>on</strong> right<br />

713-526-8787<br />

Dumb Stage (c<strong>on</strong>tinued from p. 2)<br />

youth and gains the complexity of a<br />

bottle-developed bouquet. Most wines do<br />

not go discernibly dumb but the dumb<br />

stage is a factor with most red Bordeaux<br />

wines. However good they may taste <strong>on</strong><br />

release (and many are incredibly good <strong>on</strong><br />

release), fine red Bordeaux is intended to<br />

develop with age.<br />

In most vintages, the wine closes down<br />

for a period as it changes in the bottle. In<br />

some vintages, the wine goes more dumb<br />

and stays dumb l<strong>on</strong>ger. In other<br />

vintages, the wines are much less<br />

affected and/or are affected for a shorter<br />

period of time. Really hot Bordeaux<br />

vintages (1982, 1990, 2003) tend to<br />

produce wines with lower acidity. The<br />

lower acid wines d<strong>on</strong>’t go as dumb and<br />

may stay in the dumb stage for a<br />

relatively shorter period. Great classic<br />

Bordeaux vintages (1986, 1989, 1996)<br />

tend to have more acidity and so, go<br />

more deeply into the dumb stage.<br />

Medium-weight, well-balanced vintages<br />

like 1999 go dumb but d<strong>on</strong>’t go deeply<br />

into it and the wines d<strong>on</strong>’t stay dumb as<br />

l<strong>on</strong>g.<br />

Generally speaking, the most expensive<br />

wines - the biggest, most intense, most<br />

extracted wines - go dumb for the<br />

l<strong>on</strong>gest time and the least expensive<br />

Bordeaux reds may not go dumb at all<br />

(because the least expensive wines often<br />

have all the development they will ever<br />

need by the time they are released).<br />

Almost all the 1990s have emerged but<br />

many of the best 1989s could use a<br />

couple of more years to fully emerge.<br />

Even some 1986s are still finishing up.<br />

On the other hand, many 1995s have<br />

already emerged.<br />

<str<strong>on</strong>g>What</str<strong>on</strong>g> happens if you drink a wine<br />

during the dumb stage A lot depends <strong>on</strong><br />

where the wine is in its development but<br />

most of them actually taste pretty good –<br />

just not as good as they did or will. You<br />

can help them taste better by splashing<br />

the wine into a decanter (as opposed to<br />

gently decanting it). I like to use a cheap<br />

<strong>on</strong>e-liter glass carafe for this so I can<br />

turn the bottle upside down with its<br />

neck in the carafe and let the wine glug<br />

out. Unless you are holding a treasure for<br />

optimum aging, d<strong>on</strong>’t be too c<strong>on</strong>cerned<br />

about the dumb stage. It is a factor but<br />

you must also remember that you can’t<br />

enjoy your wines unless you drink them.<br />

If you are going to drink a wine too late<br />

or too so<strong>on</strong>, it is always better to err <strong>on</strong><br />

the side of too so<strong>on</strong>. The most important<br />

thing is to drink your wine.


www.specs<strong>on</strong>line.com<br />

Try tasting over 800 young red Bordeaux<br />

wines in <strong>on</strong>e week. The term “toothstaining”<br />

was invented to describe these<br />

wines. They also stain the t<strong>on</strong>gue and<br />

gums and even the fingers where they hold<br />

the stem of the wine glass (not to menti<strong>on</strong><br />

the clothes). Over the course of each day,<br />

aggressive, young tannins and fruity acidity<br />

sear the palate. And even if you are a<br />

c<strong>on</strong>sistent and c<strong>on</strong>scientious spitter, the<br />

alcohol, via sub-lingual absorpti<strong>on</strong>, will<br />

take its toll. Much of this sort of tasting is<br />

d<strong>on</strong>e in crowded rooms or special event<br />

tents while standing up. This is hardly an<br />

opportunity to get to know a particular<br />

wine; it is more like the vinous equivalent<br />

of "Hey there. Come here often Can-Ibuy-you-<strong>on</strong>e"…<br />

and about as much fun.<br />

So why do it These tastings allow me to<br />

form at least an initial impressi<strong>on</strong> of what's<br />

coming down the pipeline regarding<br />

The author Bear Dalt<strong>on</strong> & Ch. Margaux<br />

Director Paul P<strong>on</strong>talllier.<br />

specific wines and the vintage as a whole,<br />

and perhaps avoid some costly mistakes.<br />

<str<strong>on</strong>g>What</str<strong>on</strong>g> do I look for when forming that first<br />

impressi<strong>on</strong> of these relative babies First<br />

and foremost, fruit. If the wines have<br />

enough fruit, they have a chance. If they<br />

d<strong>on</strong>'t show any fruit at this age, it w<strong>on</strong>’t<br />

develop later - so the wines aren't worth<br />

further c<strong>on</strong>siderati<strong>on</strong>. After fruit, I look for<br />

balance, depth of flavor, and c<strong>on</strong>centrati<strong>on</strong>.<br />

Even at this early age, a good wine will show<br />

where it's headed. If all the elements are in<br />

balance when young, the wines will generally<br />

stay balanced as they develop. If the flavors<br />

are rich and c<strong>on</strong>centrated enough, the wine<br />

will c<strong>on</strong>tinue to taste deep and satisfying<br />

instead of prematurely becoming a washed<br />

out shell of its early potential.<br />

I look for wines that show some<br />

complexity and nuance (in Bordeaux—<br />

spice, pepper, tobacco, tea, leather, herbs,<br />

minerals, cedar, etc.) and for wines that<br />

dem<strong>on</strong>strate the structure (a combinati<strong>on</strong> of<br />

tannin, extract, color, alcohol, and acidity)<br />

that will allow them to age. And finally, I<br />

look for the wine to taste of its appellati<strong>on</strong><br />

and its fore-runners. A good Pauillac wine<br />

should bear a resemblance to other good<br />

Pauillacs from the same vintage and a str<strong>on</strong>g<br />

family resemblance to other vintages from<br />

the same chateau.<br />

On my most recent trip to Bordeaux, I took tasting notes <strong>on</strong> over 800 wines—<br />

more than half of which were barrel samples from the 2003 vintage. Looking at the<br />

wines by regi<strong>on</strong> shows many of the strengths and weaknesses of the 2003 vintage.<br />

As I noted earlier, many of the wines from the Merlot-dominated areas of St.<br />

Emili<strong>on</strong> and especially Pomerol were frankly disappointing. I tasted very few<br />

Pomerols that I thought were worth c<strong>on</strong>sidering. We bought le B<strong>on</strong> Pasteur and Vieux Ch.<br />

Certan. We will buy Petrus (which I have not tasted but I have heard good reports from those<br />

who have). In St. Emili<strong>on</strong>, Cheval Blanc made excellent but not outstanding wine. Aus<strong>on</strong>e (<strong>on</strong> the other side of the<br />

village) made a wine many are classing in the top wines of the vintage. I thought it was excellent but not in the very<br />

top class. There are a number of excellent St. Emili<strong>on</strong>s (Angelus, Can<strong>on</strong> La Gaffeliere, Pavie, Pavie Decesse, Pavie<br />

MacQuin, etc.) but they are mostly located <strong>on</strong> soils with better water retenti<strong>on</strong> further away from Pomerol.<br />

Other less fancy right bank appellati<strong>on</strong>s such as Lalande de Pomerol, the Cotes de Castill<strong>on</strong>, and the Cotes de Francs<br />

did better with many lower-priced, very interesting wines that should appeal to the regular Bordeaux drinker (as<br />

opposed to the trophy hunting collector). Look for Puygueraud, the Georges Cuvee de Ch. Puygueraud (with its high<br />

percentage of Malbec), La Prade, La Rousselle, La Fleur St. Georges, La Fleur de Bouard, Ch. d’Aguilhe, Ampelia, and<br />

Cap de Faugeres.<br />

The Graves area (especially Pessac Leognan) made many fine and excellent and even a couple of potentially outstanding<br />

dry red and white wines in 2003. For reds, look at all the wines from the Haut Bri<strong>on</strong> estates as well as Pape Clement,<br />

Domaine de Chevalier, Haut Bailly, Smith Haut Lafitte, Carb<strong>on</strong>nieux, Haut Bergey, and Clos Marsalette. All of these wines<br />

are at least fine and many of them are excellent. Haut Bri<strong>on</strong> is Outstanding and La Missi<strong>on</strong> and Pape Clement could get<br />

there. For dry whites Haut Bri<strong>on</strong> Blanc was outstanding and Laville Haut Bri<strong>on</strong>,<br />

<str<strong>on</strong>g>What</str<strong>on</strong>g> About...<br />

THE 2002s<br />

2002 was a vintage that required a severe<br />

selecti<strong>on</strong> to be made of the wines to buy<br />

and offer to our customers. Where the<br />

terroir was good there was great potential<br />

for high quality wine. Where great terroir<br />

was lacking, the wines showed it. Top<br />

terroir can be found in a number of subappellati<strong>on</strong>s<br />

in Bordeaux so there are fine<br />

2002s from all over the Bordelaise map.<br />

The style of 2002 is elegant, balanced claret<br />

with more weight and intensity and better<br />

overall quality than 1999. These wines are<br />

not blockbusters but they offer tremendous<br />

pleasure and they will excel at the table.<br />

The top part of the vintage is truly<br />

excellent.<br />

In St. Emili<strong>on</strong> and Pomerol, two of the<br />

best wines came from near neighbors<br />

Cheval Blanc and Vieux Ch. Certan. Both<br />

use a very high (for their appellati<strong>on</strong>s)<br />

percentage of Cabernet Franc with the<br />

more usual Merlot and both vineyards<br />

c<strong>on</strong>tain a lot of gravel. The result is a more<br />

elegant, balanced wine than many of their<br />

neighbors produce. Other top St. Emili<strong>on</strong><br />

properties with high levels of Cabernet<br />

Franc include Angelus and Can<strong>on</strong> la<br />

Gafelliere. Both are well worth seeking out.<br />

In the Graves regi<strong>on</strong>, The Haut Bri<strong>on</strong> wines performed at their usual<br />

high level as did Smith Haut Lafitte and Pape Clement, Haut Bri<strong>on</strong><br />

was outstanding and La Missi<strong>on</strong> not far behind.<br />

In the Medoc, all the first growths made excellent to even<br />

outstanding wines. Latour and Lafite were favorites with Margaux<br />

right behind and Mout<strong>on</strong> just following Margaux. All the sec<strong>on</strong>d<br />

growths showed well with Ducru Beaucaillou and Rauzan Segla<br />

making very elegant wines. Leovilles Bart<strong>on</strong> and Poyferre both are<br />

excellent with ample fruit and a fine balance. The Pauillac Pich<strong>on</strong>s<br />

(Bar<strong>on</strong> and Lalande) are quite different<br />

though both are excellent. Pich<strong>on</strong> Bar<strong>on</strong> is<br />

big and rich while Lalande has a lovely<br />

almost ethereal character and a more<br />

elegant style. Lynch Bages is like Pich<strong>on</strong><br />

Bar<strong>on</strong>. Palmer is big and juicy with an<br />

almost California richness. In St. Estephe,<br />

M<strong>on</strong>trose is excellent and the 2002 Cos<br />

d’Estournel was, until I tasted the 2003,<br />

the best Cos I can remember tasting.<br />

WHAT DOES IT ALL MEAN TO YOU<br />

Because we tasted all the wines before<br />

buying them to offer to you, I am able to<br />

endorse almost everything <strong>on</strong> our 2003<br />

and 2002 futures lists to be worth<br />

c<strong>on</strong>sidering. The <strong>on</strong>ly wines that I bought<br />

that I d<strong>on</strong>’t pers<strong>on</strong>ally think are worth the<br />

m<strong>on</strong>ey are wines that got great press or<br />

extremely high scores from The Wine<br />

Spectator or Robert Parker. You can see<br />

from the scores <strong>on</strong> the price grid where<br />

the Spectator, Parker, Steve Tanzer, and I<br />

agreed and disagreed.<br />

<str<strong>on</strong>g>What</str<strong>on</strong>g> does this mean for the average<br />

Bordeaux afficianado Basically that with<br />

2003, the whole market has moved up a<br />

bit in price (yet again) and that some<br />

formerly affordable, formerly available<br />

wines have become more expensive and<br />

more scarce. There is now a larger than<br />

ever disc<strong>on</strong>nect between the prices of the<br />

most sought after wines and the prices of<br />

the standards. Even so, the dedicated<br />

claret drinker can still find plenty of wines<br />

that offer good drinking at fair prices, as<br />

well as some that are out-right bargains.<br />

Due to the high prices of the 2000s and<br />

the 2003s, the beautiful 1999s look like<br />

even better bargains than they already did,<br />

the just arriving 2001s look better than<br />

ever, and the remaining 2002 futures<br />

suddenly seem down-right cheap.


(c<strong>on</strong>tinued from p. 4)<br />

Domaine de Chevalier Blanc, Smith Haut Lafitte Blanc, and Carb<strong>on</strong>nieux were all excellent. Incidentally, Pavill<strong>on</strong> Blanc du Ch.<br />

Margaux (a 100% Sauvign<strong>on</strong> Blanc white grown at Margaux but carrying a simple Bordeaux appellati<strong>on</strong>) was also excellent.<br />

The Medoc is the sub-regi<strong>on</strong> of Bordeaux that benefited most from the torrid weather. While the heat and the techniques<br />

needed to deal with it kept the crops small, the quality was excepti<strong>on</strong>al as all the Cabernet Sauvign<strong>on</strong> and even all the Petite<br />

Verdot got fully ripe. All the properties that revealed their blends told me they used all the Petite Verdot that they had.<br />

The wines from the appellati<strong>on</strong> of Margaux were a c<strong>on</strong>sistently high quality lot with noteworthy efforts from Ch. Margaux<br />

(outstanding and, al<strong>on</strong>g with Latour and Lafite, <strong>on</strong>e of the three best wines of the vintage), Palmer, Rauzan Segla, Kirwan,<br />

and Pavill<strong>on</strong> Rouge.<br />

There is a gap where not many vines are grown between Margaux and St. Julien. When the vineyards start back up as the<br />

road rises into St. Julien, they c<strong>on</strong>tinue <strong>on</strong> unbroken through Pauillac and St. Estephe into the Haut Medoc and Medoc<br />

appellati<strong>on</strong>s. It was here in these cooler more northern Medoc appellati<strong>on</strong>s that the heat did the most good. St. Julien made<br />

two really excellent Leovilles (Bart<strong>on</strong> and Poyferre), an excellent Gruaud Larose and Talbot, and an excellent although<br />

decidedly new style of Ducru-Beaucaillou that more closely resembles Palmer than previous Ducrus.<br />

Pauillac turned out two outstanding wines—Lafite and Latour (the best wine of the vintage) as well as a potentially<br />

outstanding Mout<strong>on</strong> and excellent wines from both Pich<strong>on</strong>s (Bar<strong>on</strong> and Lalande), Les Forts de Latour, Lynch Bages, Grand<br />

Puy Lacoste, Clerc Mil<strong>on</strong>, d’Armailhac, and Haut Batailley. P<strong>on</strong>tet Canet and Batailley were both at least fine. St. Estephe<br />

turned in brilliant efforts from both Cos d’Estournel and M<strong>on</strong>trose with Cal<strong>on</strong> Segur not too far behind. These are the stars<br />

but d<strong>on</strong>’t forget fine but much less hyped wines from Laf<strong>on</strong> Rochet, Cos Labory, de Pez, and les Ormes de Pez. The Haut<br />

Medoc turned in a potentially excellent Sociando Mallet and a fine to excellent La Bernadotte (from the wine making team at<br />

Pich<strong>on</strong> Lalande).<br />

This all is sure to be welcome news. The not so welcome news is that 2003 was a small vintage and, in order to make wines<br />

as good as they did, the chateaux making the best wines made severe selecti<strong>on</strong>s with <strong>on</strong>ly the best juice making it into their<br />

grand vin. Some very high quality "sec<strong>on</strong>d wines" (and a couple of third wines) were made but a fair amount of cru classe<br />

juice also was sold in bulk. All these factors add up to a short supply of 2003s. As always happens when demand outstrips<br />

supply, prices have g<strong>on</strong>e up. Most chateaux have opened their 2003 wines (premiere traunche) at prices substantially higher<br />

than the current prices for the same 2002s. Some price increases were more than 100 percent.<br />

Spec's is so much more than a liquor store! Did you know that we have fully-stocked walk-in cigar humidors in over<br />

15 of our Neighborhood stores, (and of course at our Downtown Superstore, located right inside the main entrance)<br />

You will be pleased at our selecti<strong>on</strong> and low prices. For your smoking enjoyment, Spec's offers a wide variety of<br />

quality cigars from around the world. Our humidors also maintain a great selecti<strong>on</strong> of cigar accessories such as<br />

pers<strong>on</strong>al humidors, hygrometers, humidifiers, lighters and cutters, and it's easy for us to put together<br />

gift baskets for any occasi<strong>on</strong> with all the w<strong>on</strong>derful selecti<strong>on</strong>s we have.<br />

And our Downtown Superstore is famous for<br />

the help, who actually enjoy helping!<br />

Whether you are new to the passi<strong>on</strong>ate<br />

world of cigars, or are already a<br />

discriminating cigar afficianado, our fully<br />

knowledgeable and experienced staff caters<br />

to you. For any cigar explanati<strong>on</strong>, assistance<br />

or recommendati<strong>on</strong>, they can assist you in<br />

acquiring the pefect cigar experience. Let our<br />

staff guide you through the many flavors,<br />

aromas, wraps and makes of our huge<br />

selecti<strong>on</strong>. You can call them at<br />

713-526-8787 and ask for the Humidor.<br />

At Spec's, we carry all major brands of<br />

cigars, such as: Arturo Fuente (including<br />

Opus X, D<strong>on</strong> Carlos and Hemmingway);<br />

Diam<strong>on</strong>d Crown (including VSG); Padr<strong>on</strong><br />

(including the 1964 Anniversario and 1926);<br />

Graycliff; Cusano (including the 18 Year and<br />

Exclusivo); Rocky Patel Vintage; Acid;<br />

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Comancho; Baccaratt; D<strong>on</strong> Tomas,<br />

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Cabrillas; Ram<strong>on</strong>e All<strong>on</strong>es; La Aroma De<br />

Cuba; M<strong>on</strong>tecristo; Hoya de M<strong>on</strong>terey; Saint<br />

"...our Downtown<br />

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for the help, who<br />

actually enjoy<br />

helping!"<br />

Luis Rey; Sancho Panza; El Rey Del Mundo;<br />

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Amo; La Unica; Avo; Griffin and La Gloria<br />

Cubana. We also offer a complete line of<br />

miniature cigars and cigarillos as well as a<br />

wide variety of flavored cigars and all<br />

Dannemann products. D<strong>on</strong>'t forget to ask<br />

about special discounts available with your<br />

Spec's Key, or you can look them up <strong>on</strong>line<br />

at www.specs<strong>on</strong>line.com.<br />

It's definately worth a trip downtown to<br />

check out our famous and respected<br />

"Sec<strong>on</strong>ds Bin", for a special buy. These<br />

"sec<strong>on</strong>ds" are handrolled cigars that just<br />

didn't quite make the cut. Because they are<br />

hand rolled, they might be a tad under or<br />

over the cigar factory's weight requirements,<br />

or perhaps rolled a bit too short or too l<strong>on</strong>g.<br />

<str<strong>on</strong>g>What</str<strong>on</strong>g>ever the small descrepency, they are<br />

still a great quality cigar, and we are able to<br />

purchase them at great savings and pass it<br />

<strong>on</strong> to you. So no need to make a special stop<br />

at a cigar shop, when you can stop at Spec's<br />

and buy it all, for less!<br />

713-526-8787<br />

Yes the world<br />

has g<strong>on</strong>e low-carb<br />

crazy. Now the wine<br />

industry has its first<br />

advertised low<br />

carbohydrate wines.<br />

Beaulieu Vineyards<br />

and Sterling have<br />

decided to change their labeling<br />

and show c<strong>on</strong>sumers a lighter side<br />

to their wines. How are these<br />

wines low-carb As a new ruling<br />

by the Alcohol and Tobacco Tax<br />

Bureau, wines and malt beverages<br />

with less than 7 grams of<br />

carbohydrates per serving are now<br />

allowed to call themselves “low<br />

carbohydrate”. Also to be<br />

included in the new point of sale<br />

informati<strong>on</strong> offered by these<br />

wineries will be nutriti<strong>on</strong>al<br />

informati<strong>on</strong> <strong>on</strong> fat c<strong>on</strong>tent,<br />

protein and caloric value per<br />

serving. How many of us knew<br />

that by drinking a single glass of<br />

Beaulieu Vineyards Coastal<br />

Chard<strong>on</strong>nay that we are<br />

c<strong>on</strong>suming a mere 3 grams of<br />

carbohydrates Only 124 calories<br />

and 0 grams of fat as well! Dieters<br />

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epiphany! Spec’s offers the entire<br />

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well as Sterling Vintners labels.<br />

Come in, buy, and enjoy<br />

with less guilt!<br />

Beaulieu Vineyards Coastal<br />

Chard<strong>on</strong>nay, Cabernet, Merlot,<br />

Sauvign<strong>on</strong> Blanc, Pinot Noir, or<br />

Zinfandel<br />

750ml<br />

EVERY DAY!<br />

$7.42 btl $82.65 case<br />

Sterling Vintners<br />

Chard<strong>on</strong>nay or Merlot<br />

750ml<br />

EVERY DAY!<br />

$10.99 btl $123.12 case<br />

Sterling Vintners Cabernet<br />

750ml<br />

EVERY DAY!<br />

$10.12 btl $121.44 case


www.specs<strong>on</strong>line.com<br />

Over an excellent late lunch of osso bucco and spinach with two ladies at Simposio recently, I tasted seven very<br />

interesting wines. Three were from MacMurray Ranch (<strong>on</strong>e of the Northern California's newest wineries) and three<br />

were from Louis Martini (<strong>on</strong>e of California's oldest wineries). In terms of both the food and company, it was a lovely<br />

lunch—but then I expected as much. <str<strong>on</strong>g>What</str<strong>on</strong>g> really impressed me though was just how good the wines were...<br />

MACMURRAY RANCH is the family estate of late actor Fred MacMurray. His daughter Kate lives <strong>on</strong> the estate in the "John<br />

Wayne" cabin (as it was where Mr. Wayne always stayed when he visited, which was frequently). The MacMurrays never<br />

grew grapes or made wine, but the new owners kept the name and even hired Kate MacMurray to help manage and market<br />

the wines. The MacMurray Ranch is <strong>on</strong> Westside Road in the Russian River Valley and so grows (not surprisingly) Pinot<br />

Noir, but also grows (maybe a bit surprisingly) Pinot Gris. The cool climate and fog of the Russian River Valley are actually<br />

ideal for both grapes. We tasted the Pinot Gris and both the Russian River and S<strong>on</strong>oma Coast Pinot Noirs...<br />

MacMURRAY RANCH Pinot Gris<br />

Russian River Valley, 2002<br />

$17.64 btl $193.20 case 12x750ml<br />

This is a lively, well-focused,<br />

refreshing pear-white peach-andlime-oriented<br />

Pinot Gris with the<br />

minerally terroir notes and crisp<br />

acidity it needs to be balanced. It<br />

has an elegant structure with good<br />

weight and richness and a fine feel<br />

but it is not at all heavy. Excellent.<br />

Bear's Score: 91 points.<br />

MacMURRAY RANCH Pinot Noir<br />

S<strong>on</strong>oma Coast, 2002<br />

$12.92 btl $143.88 case 12x750ml<br />

From grapes grown in the cool, higher<br />

elevati<strong>on</strong> vineyards of the S<strong>on</strong>oma Coast<br />

appellati<strong>on</strong>, this wine spent five m<strong>on</strong>ths in a<br />

mix of mostly seas<strong>on</strong>ed French oak. The result<br />

is a light-to-medium-bodied red offering dark<br />

red cherry fruit and notes of chocolate and<br />

earth with a hint of new leather. Quite<br />

flavorful with a juicy texture and mediumweight<br />

feel, it gains in richness as it unfolds in<br />

the glass. Fine+. Bear's Score: 90 points.<br />

MacMURRAY RANCH Pinot Noir<br />

Russian River Valley, 2001<br />

$23.81 btl $260.82 case 12x750ml<br />

After 12 m<strong>on</strong>ths in a mix of new and<br />

seas<strong>on</strong>ed French oak barrels, this Russian<br />

River Pinot offers good richness and<br />

density with a lovely juicy texture and<br />

ample dark cherry fruit. Complexity comes<br />

in the notes of black pepper and spice,<br />

earth, cocoa, and cola. The l<strong>on</strong>g finish<br />

retains fruit and perfume before it<br />

resolves clean. Excellent. Bear's Score:<br />

91+ points.<br />

THE LOUIS MARTINI WINERY is <strong>on</strong>e of the old ic<strong>on</strong>s of the Napa Valley and the whole California wine industry. There were great<br />

Cabernets from the 1940s (the winery was founded in 1933) through the 1990s and now into this century. The wines were sometimes<br />

out of fashi<strong>on</strong> - Martini always went for balance rather than power - but quality was never lacking. Even the very basic Louis Martini<br />

"California" Cabernets were always much better than the price would indicate and often were the first commercially available indicator<br />

of the quality of a vintage that was just moving into release. Here are notes <strong>on</strong> the three Cabernets we tasted with lunch.<br />

LOUIS MARTINI Cabernet Sauvign<strong>on</strong><br />

S<strong>on</strong>oma County, 2001<br />

$11.99 btl $134.29 case 12x750ml<br />

The winery's tech sheet says 88% Cabernet<br />

Sauvign<strong>on</strong> with 9% Merlot and 1% Cabernet<br />

Franc - which is 2% shy of 100. N<strong>on</strong>e-theless,<br />

this is a medium weight, fruit forward,<br />

spicy Cabernet Sauvign<strong>on</strong> featuring plenty of<br />

red cherry and red berry fruit with notes of<br />

tobacco and cedar and a sweet spiciness. The<br />

wine is well balanced and elegant -<br />

everything I expect from a Martini Cabernet.<br />

Really Fine. Bear's Score: 90+ points.<br />

So what do MacMurray Ranch and Louis<br />

Martini Winery have in comm<strong>on</strong> The<br />

"G" word. As in both are owned by Gallo.<br />

Gallo created MacMurray Ranch and<br />

purchased (and is in the process of<br />

revitalizing) Louis Martini. Even though<br />

both properties are Gallo owned, they<br />

each have their own pers<strong>on</strong>alities and are<br />

in fact separate wineries in terms of<br />

winemaking and grape sources. And<br />

speaking of Gallo, we also tasted another<br />

interesting white wine at lunch...<br />

LOUIS MARTINI Cabernet Sauvign<strong>on</strong>, Napa LOUIS MARTINI Cabernet Sauvign<strong>on</strong> Reserve<br />

Valley, 2000 $17.23 btl $191.84 case 12x750ml<br />

Alexander Valley, 2000<br />

The winery's tech sheet says this is 78% Cabernet $20.65 btl $229.95 case 12x750ml<br />

Sauvign<strong>on</strong> with 19% Merlot, 1% Cabernet Franc, and A blend of 94% Cabernet Sauvign<strong>on</strong> and 6%<br />

1% Petite Verdot - which is 1% shy of 100%. The Merlot made from uncrushed, destemmed grapes<br />

result is a classic, classy, balanced Napa Cab offering ("whole berry fermentati<strong>on</strong>") and aged 26<br />

dusty-ripe blackberry fruit with good richness and m<strong>on</strong>ths in a mixture of mostly seas<strong>on</strong>ed French,<br />

notes of tea, tobacco, and cedar, al<strong>on</strong>g with hints of European, and American oak barrels. The result is<br />

earthy minerals and black pepper. It has a juicy a balanced, elegant, but still masculine Cab that<br />

richness in the mouth with an excellent feel but tastes most str<strong>on</strong>gly of Cabernet fruit with str<strong>on</strong>g<br />

finishes dusty dry. It is elegant (not at all heavy) and blackberry and cassis notes and nuance of<br />

complete and very well integrated. Delicious. tobacco, dried herbs, and blackberry liqueur<br />

Excellent. Bear's Score: 93 points.<br />

perfume. Excellent. Bear's Score: 92 points.<br />

GALLO SONOMA ESTATE Chard<strong>on</strong>nay, Russian River Valley, 1999 $35.56 btl $195.74 case 6x750ml<br />

Made from Gallo's best Chard<strong>on</strong>nay, barrel-fermented and aged <strong>on</strong> the lees (which are<br />

regularly stirred) in 100% new light-to-medium toast French oak barrels, this lively juicy,<br />

minerally, well-focused, classy, balanced Chard<strong>on</strong>nay is about as close as S<strong>on</strong>oma gets to a wellaged<br />

1er cru Meursault. The ample fruit is in the green pear, ripe apple, peach, and tropical<br />

lime range with notes of banana and butterscotch and a hint of vanilla. The new oak is almost<br />

completely integrated. The wine is very well balanced with a fine feel, good intensity, and a<br />

super l<strong>on</strong>g finish. Excellent. Bear's Score: 92+ points.


713-526-8787<br />

(c<strong>on</strong>tinued from p.1)<br />

.<br />

CRU BOURGEOIS - Because there were many chateaux left out the 1855 Classificati<strong>on</strong> due to newness or lower<br />

prices, and because a number of new chateaux have been established since then, there were a large number of very<br />

good but unclassified Medoc chateaux. Many of these chateaux banded together to form the “Syndicate of Crus<br />

Bourgeois”. In 1978, they classified themselves as Crus Grands Bourgeois Excepti<strong>on</strong>nels, Crus Grands Bourgeois, and<br />

Crus Bourgeois, in descending order of quality. Many of the best of these wines stand up very well to wines ranked as<br />

high as third growths in the Classificati<strong>on</strong> of 1855.<br />

LEFT BANK, RIGHT BANK – Bordeaux is split in two by the Gir<strong>on</strong>de, a large estuary formed by the c<strong>on</strong>fluence of the<br />

Gar<strong>on</strong>ne and Dordogne rivers. If you are facing north (or down river), the Medoc and Graves are <strong>on</strong> the left bank and<br />

St. Emili<strong>on</strong> and Pomerol are <strong>on</strong> the right bank. The wines of the left bank tend to have a high proporti<strong>on</strong> of Cabernet<br />

Sauvign<strong>on</strong> in the mix. Almost all of the wines of the right bank are based <strong>on</strong> Merlot.<br />

MICROBIOLAGE – A technique for bubbling a small amount of oxygen into wine in the barrel for gentle oxygenati<strong>on</strong><br />

without racking the wine off its lees.<br />

PETITE CHATEAU – A chateau, usually lower priced, not included in any of the classificati<strong>on</strong>s. A chateau that could<br />

not be c<strong>on</strong>sidered a classified growth.<br />

PIGEAGE – (pr<strong>on</strong>ounced peej ahj with soft g sounds) The Burgundian method of cap management where the cap of<br />

grape skins and pulp is punched down into the fermenting juice and so broken up so the juice mixes with the skins<br />

allowing extracti<strong>on</strong> of color, flavor, and tannin.<br />

PUMP-OVER – The more typically Bordelaise practice of pumping juice from the bottom of the tank and spraying it<br />

over the top of the cap so it extracts color and flavor and tannin as it filters through.<br />

RACK, RACKING – Racking is moving the wine from <strong>on</strong>e barrel to another, often using a siph<strong>on</strong> (pumps also may be<br />

used) to get the clear wine off its lees in the old barrel and feed the wine some oxygen through air exposure. Cabernetbased<br />

wines need more racking than Merlot-based wines as Cabernet needs more air than Merlot.<br />

SECOND WINE, SECOND LABEL – Many chateaux make more than <strong>on</strong>e wine. Often they take the best of what they<br />

make and bottle it with the name of the chateau. They then take what doesn’t make the cut for that “grand vin” and<br />

blend the best wine they can and label it with a sec<strong>on</strong>d label. The wine left after the sec<strong>on</strong>d wine is made is generally<br />

sold off in bulk. In the best case scenario (such as at Latour, or Margaux, Pich<strong>on</strong> Bar<strong>on</strong>, or Rauzan Segla) these “sec<strong>on</strong>d<br />

wines” are high quality, earlier drinking expressi<strong>on</strong>s of the estate that reflect many of the same characteristics as the<br />

grand vin. In the worst case, they are junk.<br />

TERROIR - (pr<strong>on</strong>ounced tear whar) takes in the whole combinati<strong>on</strong> of soil, climate, viticultural practice, and<br />

happenstance of locati<strong>on</strong> that gives a wine from a single site its uniqueness. Great terroir comes through in great wine.<br />

It is possible to make bad wine from great terroir but not the reverse. Terroir also denotes that unique character of the<br />

site as it expresses in the wine.<br />

TRIAGE – the sorting process wherein the bunches of grapes are examined for ripeness and uniformity and any bad<br />

secti<strong>on</strong>s, unripe grapes, raisins, rot, or excess stems and leaves are cut out. Most often, this is d<strong>on</strong>e <strong>on</strong> sorting tables<br />

topped with slow moving c<strong>on</strong>veyer belts to feed the clusters past the experienced workers.<br />

UNION DES GRANDES CRUS (OR UGC) – The organizati<strong>on</strong> of Bordeaux producers that includes most of the<br />

classified growths and the top wines of Pomerol. The UGC puts <strong>on</strong> a huge trade event in Bordeaux at the end of March<br />

each year and several smaller tastings around the world during the course of the year.<br />

Spec's Next Wine Tour<br />

CHILE and ARGENTINA<br />

Your job is to get to Buenos Aires<br />

by early afterno<strong>on</strong> <strong>on</strong> Saturday,<br />

September 4, 2004. <strong>My</strong> job is to<br />

show you Buenos Aires including<br />

fine meals with fine wine, tango<br />

shows, coffee at la Recoleta,<br />

markets, and shopping <strong>on</strong><br />

Saturday and Sunday. M<strong>on</strong>day we<br />

are off to an Argentine estancia for<br />

a traditi<strong>on</strong>al barbecue lunch and a<br />

gaucho dem<strong>on</strong>strati<strong>on</strong>. M<strong>on</strong>day<br />

night we will fly to Mendoza<br />

where we will stay at the Park<br />

Hyatt. M<strong>on</strong>day dinner will be at a<br />

local landmark restaurant Pan-y-<br />

Teatro, in Mendoza. Tuesday and<br />

Wednesday will be spent touring<br />

the wine country around Mendoza<br />

and visiting three producers a day.<br />

Some meals will be in the wineries.<br />

Thursday morning we will fly to<br />

Chile and Thursday afterno<strong>on</strong> and<br />

evening will be spent touring<br />

wineries south of Santiago. Friday<br />

will offer wine touring and dining<br />

in and around Santiago. Saturday<br />

morning will offer <strong>on</strong>e winery visit<br />

and then lunch and shopping<br />

before we go to the airport to<br />

return to Buenos Aires in time to<br />

fly back to the U.S. Saturday<br />

(September 11th) night. Round<br />

trip airfare from the U.S. to<br />

Buenos Aires is not included in this<br />

trip so that you may extend your<br />

stay in the fr<strong>on</strong>t or at the end and<br />

may use airline miles for upgrades<br />

or free tickets. Double occupancy<br />

will cost $2400 per pers<strong>on</strong> and<br />

includes all meals, hotels, visits,<br />

tips, and fares (except the fare<br />

from the U.S. to Buenos Aires and<br />

back). For more informati<strong>on</strong>,<br />

please call Kim Levy at Spec's at<br />

832-660-0250 or email Bear<br />

Dalt<strong>on</strong> at Bear@specs<strong>on</strong>line.com.


www.specs<strong>on</strong>line.com<br />

Item<br />

#<br />

Name<br />

Parker's<br />

Score*<br />

Spectator<br />

Score*<br />

001550 Ch. Le CONSEILLER, Bordeaux, 2003 88-90S 86-88 12 750ml $19.19 $52.95 $197.04<br />

001539 Ch. AMPELLIA, Cotes de Castill<strong>on</strong>, 2003 88-90 12 750ml $15.10 $41.67 $155.16<br />

001446 Ch. CAP de FAUGERES, Cotes de Castill<strong>on</strong>, 2003 88-90S 88-90 12 750ml $16.39 $45.24 $168.36<br />

001560 Ch. d'AIGUILHE, Cotes de Castill<strong>on</strong>, 2003 89-91 92-94 87-90 89-91 12 750ml $29.10 $80.31 $298.92<br />

001473 Ch. FONTENIL, Fr<strong>on</strong>sac, 2003 88-91 87-90 88-91 12 750ml $25.38 $70.05 $260.64<br />

001525 Ch. BAHANS HAUT BRION (2nd of Haut Bri<strong>on</strong>),<br />

Pessac Leognan (Graves) Rouge, 2003 87-89 87-90 89-92 12 750ml $51.66 $142.59 $530.64<br />

001545 Ch. BARRET, Pessac Leognan (Graves) Rouge, 2003 86-88 12 750ml $16.85 $46.50 $173.04<br />

001480 Ch. HAUT BAILLY, Pessac Leognan (Graves) Rouge, 2003 87-89 85-88 87-90 89-91 12 750ml $$44.28 122.19 $454.80<br />

001523 Ch. HAUT BRION, Pessac Leognan (Graves) Rouge, 2003 95-98 95-100 93-96 96-98 12 750ml $286.56 $790.92 $2,943.60<br />

001526 Ch. LA MISSION HAUT BRION, Pessac Leognan<br />

(Graves) Rouge, 2003 90-92 95-100 90-93 91-95 12 750ml $138.65 $382.68 $1,424.16<br />

001527 Ch. LA TOUR HAUT BRION, Pessac Leognan (Graves) Rouge, 2003 87-89 89-91 90-93 12 750ml $53.65 $148.08 $551.04<br />

001536 Ch. PAPE CLEMENT, Pessac Leognan (Graves) Rouge, 2003 92-94 92-94 89-92 92-95 12 750ml $93.85 $259.02 $964.08<br />

001506 Ch. SMITH HAUT LAFITTE, Pessac Leognan (Graves) Rouge, 2003 90-92 92-94 90-92 90-92 12 750ml $49.48 $136.56 $508.20<br />

001465 DOMAINE de CHEVALIER, Pessac Leognan (Graves) Rouge, 2003 88-90 87-90 91-93 12 750ml $37.71 $104.10 $387.36<br />

001529 LA CHAPELLE DE LA MISSION (2nd of La Missi<strong>on</strong> Haut Bri<strong>on</strong>),<br />

Pessac Leognan (Graves) Rouge, 2003 89-91 12 750ml $31.78 $87.69 $326.40<br />

001483 Ch. La FLEUR de BOUARD, Lalande de Pomerol, 2003 88-91 85-87 88-91 12 750ml $38.03 $104.94 $390.60<br />

001484 Ch. La FLEUR St. GEORGES, Lalande de Pomerol, 2003 87-89+ 12 750ml $18.03 $49.74 $185.16<br />

001565 Ch. D’ISSAN, Margaux, 2003 88-90+ 85-88 87-89 12 750ml $38.03 $104.94 $390.60<br />

001466 Ch. du TERTRE, Margaux, 2003 90-92S 89-91 87-90 89-91 12 750ml $32.09 $88.56 $329.64<br />

001474 Ch. GISCOURS, Margaux, 2003 91-94 92-94 87-90 87-89 12 750ml $42.19 $116.43 $433.32<br />

001515 Ch. KIRWAN, Margaux, 2003 90-92 85-88 90-92 12 750ml $38.65 $106.68 $396.96<br />

001555 Ch. MARGAUX, Margaux, 2003 96-100 95-100 94-98 95-99 12 750ml CALL CALL CALL<br />

001563 Ch. PALMER, Margaux, 2003 88-91 89-91 88-91 90-92 12 750ml $133.44 $368.28 $1,370.64<br />

001499 Ch. PRIEUR LICHINE, Margaux, 2003 88-90 89-91 87-90 87-89 12 750ml $34.38 $94.89 $353.16<br />

001500 Ch. RAUZAN SEGLA, Margaux, 2003 88-90 92-94 88-90 92-95 12 750ml $62.50 $172.50 $642.00<br />

001533 PAVILLON ROUGE (2nd of Ch. Margaux), Margaux, 2003 90-93 92-94 90-93 12 750ml $55.73 $153.81 $572.40<br />

001448 Ch. CHARMAIL, Haut Medoc, 2003 88-91 88-91 88-90 12 750ml $21.53 $59.40 $221.16<br />

001498 Ch. POTENSAC, Medoc, 2003 88-90S 89-91 87-90 87-89 12 750ml $25.03 $69.06 $257.04<br />

001507 Ch. SOCIANDO MALLET, Haut Medoc, 2003 91-94 92-94 90-93 90-92 12 750ml $41.78 $115.29 $429.12<br />

001561 CARRUADES de LAFITE (2nd of Lafite), Pauillac, 2003 90-92 89-91 88-91 90-92 12 750ml $48.44 $133.68 $497.52<br />

001542 Ch. BATAILLEY, Pauillac, 2003 87-89 89-91 12 750ml $30.73 $84.81 $315.60<br />

001449 Ch. CLERC MILON, Pauillac, 2003 90-93 95-100 89-92 90-92 12 750ml $42.19 $116.43 $433.32<br />

001459 Ch. D’ARMAILHAC, Pauillac, 2003 89-92 92-94 88-91 90-92 12 750ml $33.44 $92.28 $343.44<br />

001468 Ch. DUHART MILON, Pauillac, 2003 90-93 92-94 88-91 87-89 12 750ml $36.04 $99.45 $370.20<br />

001516 Ch. HAUT BAGES AVEROUS (2nd of Lynch Bages), Pauillac, 2003 12 750ml $27.24 $75.18 $279.84<br />

001479 Ch. HAUT BAGES LIBERAL, Pauillac, 2003 89-91 84-87 87-89 12 750ml $32.81 $90.57 $337.08<br />

001481 Ch. HAUT BATAILLEY, Pauillac, 2003 87-90 87-90 90-92 12 750ml $33.44 $92.28 $343.44<br />

001517 Ch. LACOSTE BORIE (2nd of Grand Puy Lacoste), Pauillac, 2003 12 750ml $19.19 $52.95 $197.04<br />

001568 Ch. LAFITE ROTHSCHILD, Pauillac, 2003 12 750ml CALL CALL CALL<br />

001556 Ch. LATOUR, Pauillac, 2003 98-100 95-100 95-98 96-100 12 750ml CALL CALL CALL<br />

001514 Ch. LYNCH BAGES, Pauillac, 2003 88-90 92-94 87-90 90-93 12 750ml $65.63 $181.14 $674.16<br />

001534 Ch. MOUTON ROTHSCHILD, Pauillac, 2003 95-98 95-100 91-93 93-96 12 750ml $286.56 $790.92 $2,943.60<br />

001552 Ch. PICHON BARON, Pauillac, 2003 92-94+ 95-100 91-94 92-95 12 750ml $75.10 $207.27 $771.48<br />

001553 Ch. PICHON BARON, Pauillac, 2003 92-94+ 95-100 91-94 92-95 12 750ml $78.10 $223.50 $836.28<br />

001537 Ch. PICHON LALANDE, Pauillac, 2003 93-95 95-100 91-93 91-94 12 750ml $119.38 $329.49 $1,226.28<br />

001518 Ch. PONTET CANET, Pauillac, 2003 92-94 95-100 91-94 89-91 12 750ml $61.56 $169.92 $632.40<br />

001562 Les FORTS de LATOUR (2nd of Latour), Pauillac, 2003 91-93 92-94 90-93 91-94 12 750ml $$58.96 162.75 $605.64<br />

001489 Ch. Le BON PASTEUR, Pomerol, 2003 88-90 89-91 87-90 90-92 12 750ml $52.60 $145.17 $540.36<br />

001512 VIEUX Ch. CERTAN, Pomerol, 2003 88-90 89-91 85-88 92-96 12 750ml $85.00 $234.60 $873.12<br />

001567 Ch. ANGELUS, St. Emili<strong>on</strong>, 2003 94-96 95-100 90-93 91-94 12 750ml $157.40 $434.43 $1,616.76<br />

001559 Ch. CANON La GAFFELIERE, St. Emili<strong>on</strong>, 2003 87-89 92-94 89-92 92-95 12 750ml $66.66 $183.99 $684.72<br />

001574 Ch. CHEVAL BLANC, St. Emili<strong>on</strong>, 2003 6 750ml $356.46 $983.85 $1,830.78<br />

001451 Ch. CLOS FOURTET, St. Emili<strong>on</strong>, 2003 94-96 92-94 88-91 12 750ml $59.48 $164.16 $610.92<br />

001547 Ch. Du CAUZE, St. Emili<strong>on</strong>, 2003 88-90 87-90 12 750ml $23.85 $65.82 $245.04<br />

001469 Ch. FAUGERES, St. Emili<strong>on</strong>, 2003 90-93 85-88 90-92 12 750ml $29.23 $80.67 $300.24<br />

001470 Ch. FOMBRAUGE, St. Emili<strong>on</strong>, 2003 90-92 89-91 88-91 90-92 12 750ml $29.79 $82.20 $306.00<br />

001482 Ch. La FLEUR CARDINAL, St. Emili<strong>on</strong>, 2003 12 750ml $29.68 $81.90 $304.80<br />

001538 Ch. La GRANDE CLOTTE, Lussac St. Emili<strong>on</strong>, 2003 88-90 12 750ml $12.65 $34.92 $129.96<br />

001540 Ch. LAPLAGNOTTE BELLEVUE, St. Emili<strong>on</strong>, 2003 89-91 12 750ml $22.23 $61.35 $228.24<br />

001541 Ch. LAPLAGNOTTE BELLEVUE, St. Emili<strong>on</strong>, 2003 - Half Bottles 89-91 24 375ml $12.39 $34.20 $254.40<br />

001566 Ch. MONBOUSQUET, St. Emili<strong>on</strong>, 2003 90-92 85-88 89-92 89-91 12 750ml $55.73 $153.81 $572.40<br />

001494 Ch. PAVIE DECESSE, St. Emili<strong>on</strong>, 2003 95-97 89-91 90-93 90-93 12 750ml $124.06 $342.42 $1,274.40<br />

001496 Ch. PAVIE, St. Emili<strong>on</strong>, 2003 96-100 95-100 92-95 92-95 12 750ml $165.21 $456.00 $1,697.04<br />

Tanzer's<br />

Score*<br />

Bear's<br />

Score*<br />

Pack/<br />

Case<br />

Size Bottle 3-pack Case<br />

*See Taster's Note p. 24


713-526-8787<br />

Item<br />

#<br />

Name<br />

Parker's<br />

Score*<br />

Spectator<br />

Score*<br />

Tanzer's<br />

Score*<br />

001497 Ch. PEBY FAUGERES, St. Emili<strong>on</strong>, 2003 89-91 88-90 91-93 12 750ml $78.13 $215.64 $802.56<br />

001511 Ch. TROPLONG MONDOT, St. Emili<strong>on</strong>, 2003 90-92+ 89-91 89-92 12 750ml $59.28 $163.59 $608.88<br />

001544 Ch. TROTTEVIELLE, St. Emili<strong>on</strong>, 2003 90-92 89-91 87-89 12 750ml $53.65 $148.08 $551.04<br />

001548 Ch. VIEUX CLOS St. EMILION, St. Emili<strong>on</strong>, 2003 87-89+ 12 750ml $19.19 $52.95 $197.04<br />

001558 CLOS de l’ORATOIRE, St. Emili<strong>on</strong>, 2003 88-91 89-91 87-89 90-92+ 12 750ml $41.78 $115.29 $429.12<br />

001522 VIEUX Ch. St. ANDRE, St. Emili<strong>on</strong>, 2003 88-89 12 750ml $16.85 $46.50 $173.04<br />

001575 Ch. AUSONE, St. Emili<strong>on</strong>, 2003 (6-bottle case) 6 750ml CALL CALL CALL<br />

001543 Ch. BEAU SITE, St. Estephe, 2003 87-88 88-90 12 750ml $21.53 $59.40 $221.16<br />

001513 Ch. CALON SEGUR, St. Estephe, 2003 94-97 92-94 92-94 92-95 12 750ml CALL CALL CALL<br />

001532 Ch. COS d’ESTOURNEL, St. Estephe, 2003 95-98 95-100 92-95 94-97 12 750ml $174.53 $499.41 $1,868.76<br />

001454 Ch. COS LABORY, St. Estephe, 2003 87-89 89-91 87-90 86-89 12 750ml $30.63 $84.54 $314.64<br />

001486 Ch. LAFON ROCHET, St. Estephe, 2003 89-91S 89-91 89-92 88-90 12 750ml $31.78 $87.69 $326.40<br />

001520 Ch. MONTROSE, St. Estephe, 2003 96-100 95-100 95-98 94-97 12 750ml CALL CALL CALL<br />

001443 Ch. BEYCHEVELLE, St. Julien, 2003 88-90 89-91 87-89 86-89 12 750ml $38.65 $106.68 $396.96<br />

001444 Ch. BRANAIRE DUCRU, St. Julien, 2003 92-94 89-91 90-93 90-92 12 750ml $39.06 $107.82 $401.28<br />

001564 Ch. DUCRU BEAUCAILLOU, St. Julien, 2003 93-95 92-94 90-93 91-94 12 750ml $124.06 $342.42 $1,274.40<br />

001475 Ch. GLORIA, St. Julien, 2003 87-89S 89-91 88-90 12 750ml $29.68 $81.90 $304.80<br />

001476 Ch. GRUAUD LAROSE, St. Julien, 2003 86-88 95-100 86-89 90-92+ 12 750ml $47.40 $130.83 $486.84<br />

001549 Ch. HORTEVIE, St. Julien, 2003 87-88 87-89 12 750ml $19.30 $53.28 $198.24<br />

001551 Ch. LALANDE BORIE, St. Julien, 2003 85-88 89-91 12 750ml $20.35 $56.16 $209.04<br />

001490 Ch. LEOVILLE BARTON, St. Julien, 2003 93-95+ 95-100 91-94 92-95 12 750ml $54.28 $149.79 $557.52<br />

001569 Ch. LEOVILLE LAS CASES, St. Julien, 2003 12 750ml $195.94 $540.78 $2,012.64<br />

001491 Ch. LEOVILLE POYFERRE, St. Julien, 2003 94-96 89-91 91-94 92-95 12 750ml $55.31 $152.67 $568.20<br />

001504 Ch. SAINT PIERRE, St. Julien, 2003 90-92S 89-91 12 750ml $36.56 $100.92 $375.60<br />

001510 Ch. TALBOT, St. Julien, 2003 88-90 92-94 86-89 90-92 12 750ml $54.69 $150.93 $561.72<br />

001521 CLOS du MARQUIS (2nd of Leoville las Cases), St. Julien, 2003 90-92 92-94 88-91 12 750ml $44.90 $123.93 $461.16<br />

001546 Ch. BARRET, Pessac Leognan (Graves) Blanc, 2003 12 750ml $15.10 $41.67 $155.16<br />

001447 Ch. CARBONNIEUX, Pessac Leognan (Graves) Blanc, 2003 90-93 90-92 12 750ml $30.00 $82.80 $308.16<br />

001528 Ch. HAUT BRION BLANC, Pessac Leognan (Graves) Blanc, 2003 95-100 94-97 6 750ml $335.63 $926.34 $1,723.80<br />

001505 Ch. SMITH HAUT LAFITTE, Pessac Leognan (Graves) Blanc, 2003 92-94 89-91 89-91 90-92 12 750ml $49.48 $136.56 $508.20<br />

001464 DOMAINE de CHEVALIER, Pessac Leognan (Graves) Blanc, 2003 89-92 91-93 12 750ml $70.94 $195.78 $728.64<br />

001530 PLANTIERS DU HAUT BRION, Pessac Leognan<br />

(Graves) Blanc, 2003 12 750ml $38.03 $104.94 $390.60<br />

001441 Ch. BASTOR LAMONTAGNE, Sauternes, 2003 91-93 12 750ml $27.35 $75.48 $280.92<br />

001442 Ch. BASTOR LAMONTAGNE, Sauternes, 2003 - Half Bottles 91-93 24 375ml $14.94 $41.22 $306.96<br />

001445 Ch. BROUSTET, Barsac, 2003 90-92 12 750ml $28.53 $78.72 $293.04<br />

001467 Ch. BROUSTET, Barsac, 2003 - Half Bottles 90-92 24 375ml $15.51 $42.81 $318.72<br />

001450 Ch. CLIMENS, Barsac, 2003 - Half Bottles 24 375ml $45.31 $125.07 $930.96<br />

001452 Ch. CLOS HAUT PEYRAGUEY, Sauternes, 2003 90-92 12 750ml $44.28 $122.19 $454.80<br />

001453 Ch. CLOS HAUT PEYRAGUEY, Sauternes, 2003 - Half Bottles 90-92 24 375ml $23.39 $64.56 $480.48<br />

001455 Ch. COUTET, Sauternes, 2003 90-92 12 750ml $42.81 $118.17 $439.80<br />

001456 Ch. COUTET, Sauternes, 2003 - Half Bottles 90-92 24 375ml $22.66 $62.55 $465.60<br />

001457 Ch. D’ARCHE, Sauternes, 2003 88-90 12 750ml $33.85 $93.42 $347.76<br />

001458 Ch. D’ARCHE, Sauternes, 2003 - Half Bottles 88-90 24 375ml $18.18 $50.16 $373.44<br />

001573 Ch. d’YQUEM, Sauternes, 2003 24 375ml $146.85 $420.21 $3,144.72<br />

001572 Ch. d’YQUEM, Sauternes, 2003 12 750ml $293.70 $840.42 $3,144.84<br />

001460 Ch. de FARGUES, Sauternes, 2003 91-94 12 750ml $63.54 $175.35 $652.68<br />

001461 Ch. de FARGUES, Sauternes, 2003 - Half Bottles 91-94 24 375ml $33.03 $91.14 $678.48<br />

001462 Ch. de MALLE, Sauternes, 2003 88-90 12 750ml $46.35 $127.92 $476.16<br />

001463 Ch. de MALLE, Sauternes, 2003 - Half Bottles 88-90 24 375ml $24.43 $67.41 $501.84<br />

001471 Ch. FILHOT, Sauternes, 2003 90-92 12 750ml $30.31 $83.67 $311.40<br />

001472 Ch. FILHOT, Sauternes, 2003 - Half Bottles 90-92 24 375ml $16.41 $45.30 $337.20<br />

001477 Ch. GUIRAUD, Sauternes, 2003 89-91 12 750ml $50.53 $139.44 $519.00<br />

001478 Ch. GUIRAUD, Sauternes, 2003 - Half Bottles 89-91 24 375ml $26.51 $73.17 $544.56<br />

001485 Ch. LAFAURIE PEYRAGUEY, Sauternes, 2003 91-94 12 750ml $46.98 $129.66 $482.52<br />

001487 Ch. LATOUR BLANCHE, Sauternes, 2003 91-94 12 750ml $45.94 $126.78 $471.84<br />

001488 Ch. LATOUR BLANCHE, Sauternes, 2003 - Half Bottles 91-94 24 375ml $22.98 $63.42 $472.08<br />

001492 Ch. LIOT, Sauternes, 2003 90-92 12 750ml $22.69 $62.61 $233.04<br />

001493 Ch. LIOT, Sauternes, 2003 - Half Bottles 90-92 24 375ml $12.63 $34.86 $259.44<br />

001501 Ch. RAYMOND LAFON, Sauternes, 2003 - Half Bottles 24 375ml $35.10 $96.87 $721.20<br />

001502 Ch. RIEUSSEC, Sauternes, 2003 91-94 12 750ml $50.53 $139.44 $519.00<br />

001503 Ch. RIEUSSEC, Sauternes, 2003 - Half Bottles 91-94 24 375ml $26.51 $73.17 $544.56<br />

001508 Ch. SUDUIRAUT, Sauternes, 2003 89-92 12 750ml $54.69 $150.93 $561.72<br />

001509 Ch. SUDUIRAUT, Sauternes, 2003 - Half Bottles 89-92 24 375ml $27.35 $75.48 $561.84<br />

Bear's<br />

Score*<br />

Pack/<br />

Case<br />

Size Bottle 3-pack Case<br />

*See Taster's Note p. 24


www.specs<strong>on</strong>line.com<br />

Parker's<br />

Score*<br />

Spectator<br />

Score*<br />

Item # Name<br />

Pack Size Bottle 3-pack Case<br />

BORDEAUX APELLATIONS<br />

1438 Ch. PUYGERAUD, Cotes de Francs, 2002 85-88 87-89 12 750ml $16.35 $45.12 $168.00<br />

1439 Ch. THEIULEY CLASSIC (ROUGE), Bordeaux, 2002 86-88 12 750ml $7.50 $20.70 $77.04<br />

COTES de CASTILLON<br />

1411 Ch. AMPELIA, Cotes de Castill<strong>on</strong>, 2002 88-90 12 750ml $13.94 $38.46 $143.16<br />

1396 Ch. d'AIGUILHE, Cotes de Castill<strong>on</strong>, 2002 88-90 89-91 89-91 12 750ml $20.35 $56.16 $209.04<br />

MARGAUX<br />

1386 Ch. MARGAUX, Margaux, 2002 91-93 92-94 94-96 12 750ml $119.38 $329.49 $1,226.28<br />

1405 Ch. PALMER, Margaux, 2002 93-95 92-94 91-94 12 750ml $80.84 $223.11 $830.40<br />

1409 Ch. RAUZAN SEGLA, Margaux, 2002 89-91 90-93 12 750ml $45.94 $126.78 $471.84<br />

1388 PAVILLON ROUGE du Ch. MARGAUX (2nd vin), Margaux, 2002 85-88 90-92 12 750ml $33.85 $93.42 $347.76<br />

PAUILLAC<br />

1370 CARRUADES de Ch. LAFITE (2nd vin), Pauillac, 2002 90-92 12 750ml $33.85 $93.42 $347.76<br />

1412 Ch. BATAILLEY, Pauillac, 2002 85-88 88-90 12 750ml $25.14 $69.39 $258.24<br />

1371 Ch. CLERC MILON, Pauillac, 2002 90-92 89-91 90-92 12 750ml $31.98 $88.26 $328.44<br />

1397 Ch. d'ARMAILHAC, Pauillac, 2002 91-93 85-88 90-92 12 750ml $25.03 $69.06 $257.04<br />

1374 Ch. DUHART MILON, Pauillac, 2002 88-90 85-88 88-90 12 750ml $26.89 $74.22 $276.24<br />

1401 Ch. GRAND PUY LACOSTE, Pauillac, 2002 85-87 85-88 90-92 12 750ml $34.48 $95.16 $354.12<br />

1376 Ch. HAUT BAGES LIBERAL, Pauillac, 2002 89-91 88-90 12 750ml $22.69 $62.61 $233.04<br />

1402 Ch. HAUT BATAILLEY, Pauillac, 2002 89-91 89-91 12 750ml $25.03 $69.06 $257.04<br />

1381 Ch. LAFITE ROTHSCHILD, Pauillac, 2002 94-96 95-100 94-96 12 750ml $119.38 $329.49 $1,226.28<br />

1421 Ch. LATOUR, Pauillac, 2002 95-98 92-94 96-99 12 750ml $124.90 $344.73 $1,282.92<br />

1387 Ch. MOUTON ROTHSCHILD, Pauillac, 2002 94-96 95-100 93-95 12 750ml $119.38 $329.49 $1,226.28<br />

1408 Ch. PICHON BARON, Pauillac, 2002 89-91 92-94 91-94 12 750ml $47.40 $130.83 $486.84<br />

1389 Ch. PICHON LALANDE, Pauillac, 2002 92-94 92--94 91-94 12 750ml $54.79 $151.20 $562.80<br />

1419 Les FORTS de LATOUR (2nd vin), Pauillac, 2002 89-91 90-92 12 750ml $42.19 $116.43 $433.32<br />

PESSAC LEOGNAN and GRAVES (Rouge)<br />

1368 Ch. BAHANS HAUT BRION (2nd vin),<br />

Pessac Leognan Rouge, 2002 85-88 89-91 12 750ml $34.79 $96.00 $357.36<br />

1377 Ch. HAUT BRION, Pessac Leognan Rouge, 2002 92-94 95-100 94-97 12 750ml $119.38 $329.49 $1,226.28<br />

1380 Ch. la MISSION HAUT BRION, Pessac Leognan Rouge, 2002 89-92 92-94 91-94 12 750ml $87.50 $241.50 $898.80<br />

1383 Ch. LATOUR HAUT BRION, Pessac Leognan Rouge, 2002 89-91 90-92 12 750ml $41.15 $113.58 $422.64<br />

1406 Ch. PAPE CLEMENT, Pessac Leognan Rouge, 2002 91-93 85-88 91-93 12 750ml $61.56 $169.92 $632.40<br />

1379 La CHAPELLE de la MISSION HAUT BRION (2nd vin),<br />

Pessac Leognan Rouge, 2002 85-88 90-82 12 750ml $26.19 $72.27 $269.04<br />

POMEROL<br />

1435 Ch. Le PIN, Pomerol, 2002 (3 bottles per case) 3 750ml $816.66 $2,100.00<br />

1436 Ch. PETRUS, Pomerol, 2002 (6 bottles per case) 90-93 92-94 6 750ml $554.16 $1,529.49 $2,846.16<br />

1410 VIEUX CHATEAU CERTAN, Pomerol, 2002 92-94 92-95 12 750ml $71.46 $197.25 $734.04<br />

ST. EMILION<br />

1392 Ch. AUSONE, St. Emili<strong>on</strong> (6 bottles per case), 2002 94-96 92-94 93-95 6 750ml $200.10 $552.27 $1,027.74<br />

1369 Ch. CANON LA GAFFELIERE, St. Emili<strong>on</strong>, 2002 90-92 89-91 91-94 12 750ml $49.48 $136.56 $508.20<br />

1395 Ch. CLOS SAINT MARTIN, St. Emili<strong>on</strong>, 2002 89-91 89-91 12 750ml $41.78 $115.29 $429.12<br />

1399 Ch. FAUGERES, St. Emili<strong>on</strong>, 2002 87-89 85-88 88-90 12 750ml $21.64 $59.73 $222.24<br />

1414 Ch. La GRANDE CLOTTE, Lussac St. Emili<strong>on</strong>, 2002 86-88 12 750ml $11.84 $32.67 $121.56<br />

1415 Ch. LAPLAGNOTTE BELLEVUE, St. Emili<strong>on</strong>, 2002 89-91 12 750ml $18.03 $49.74 $185.16<br />

1403 Ch. MONBOUSQUET, St. Emili<strong>on</strong>, 2002 90-92 89-91 90-92 12 750ml $61.04 $168.45 $627.00<br />

1407 Ch. PAVIE MACQUIN, St. Emili<strong>on</strong>, 2002 89-91 89-91 90-92 12 750ml $33.96 $93.75 $348.84<br />

1417 Ch. VIEUX CLOS St. EMILION, St. Emili<strong>on</strong>, 2002 88-90 12 750ml $16.98 $46.86 $174.36<br />

1416 VIEUX Ch. St. ANDRE, M<strong>on</strong>tagne St. Emili<strong>on</strong>, 2002 87-89 12 750ml $14.88 $41.07 $152.76<br />

ST. ESTEPHE<br />

1391 Ch. CALON SEGUR, St. Estephe, 2002 89-91 92-94 88-90 12 750ml $35.94 $99.18 $369.12<br />

1372 Ch. COS d'ESTOURNEL, St. Estephe, 2002 92-94 95-100 93-95 12 750ml $66.25 $182.85 $680.52<br />

1424 Ch. COS d'ESTOURNEL, St. Estephe, 2002 92-94 95-100 93-95 12 750ml $68.75 $189.75 $706.20<br />

1404 Ch. MONTROSE, St. Estephe, 2002 89-91 89-91 91-93 12 750ml $45.94 $126.78 $471.84<br />

1425 Ch. MONTROSE, St. Estephe, 2002 89-91 89-91 91-93 12 750ml $50.00 $138.00 $513.60<br />

ST. JULIEN<br />

1393 Ch. BEYCHEVELLE, St. Julien, 2002 87-88 89-91 12 750ml $29.68 $81.90 $304.80<br />

1398 Ch. DUCRU BEAUCAILLOU, St. Julien, 2002 86-88 89-91 91-93 12 750ml $52.19 $144.03 $536.04<br />

1400 Ch. GLORIA, St. Julien, 2002 86-87 85-88 86-88 12 750ml $22.80 $62.94 $234.24<br />

1428 Ch. GRUAUD LAROSE, St. Julien, 2002 88-90 89-91 89-91 12 750ml $39.06 $107.82 $401.28<br />

1413 Ch. HORTEVIE, St. Julien, 2002 88-90 12 750ml $18.03 $49.74 $185.16<br />

1384 Ch. LEOVILLE BARTON, St. Julien, 2002 90-92 89-91 91-93 12 750ml $40.73 $112.41 $418.32<br />

1385 Ch. LEOVILLE POYFERRE, St. Julien, 2002 92-94 89-91 91-93 12 750ml $35.53 $98.04 $364.92<br />

PESSAC LEOGNAN and GRAVES (Blanc)<br />

1390<br />

1378<br />

PLANTIERS de HAUT BRION, Pessac Leognan Blanc , 2002<br />

Ch. HAUT BRION, Pessac Leognan Blanc<br />

90-92 12 750ml $29.79 $82.20 $306.00<br />

(6 bottles per case), 2002 6 750ml $190.21 $525.00 $976.9<br />

Bear's<br />

Score*<br />

SAUTERNES and BARSAC<br />

1394 Ch. CLIMENS, Barsac, 2002 92-94 91-94 12 375ml $33.44 $92.28 $343.44<br />

Take<br />

NOTE<br />

To receive our most<br />

updated futures<br />

offerings, please call us<br />

at 713-526-8787 or<br />

visit us <strong>on</strong> the Web at<br />

www.specs<strong>on</strong>line.com.<br />

We offer futures pricing<br />

<strong>on</strong> cases, three-packs,<br />

and individual bottles.<br />

Unless otherwise noted,<br />

all prices are for cases<br />

of 12x750ml bottles.<br />

Some prices rise<br />

because a particular<br />

wine got hot and we<br />

had to buy more of it <strong>on</strong><br />

a sec<strong>on</strong>d or third<br />

offering at higher<br />

prices. These price<br />

changes are included in<br />

the updated lists. Prices<br />

charged at the time of<br />

your order will be taken<br />

from the most recent<br />

list. We will fax you an<br />

updated list anytime<br />

you request <strong>on</strong>e. Spec’s<br />

cannot guarantee an<br />

arrival date for any<br />

particular wine. As<br />

always, all prices<br />

indicated in this offer<br />

include a 5% discount<br />

for “cash.” All orders<br />

are accepted subject to<br />

availability and<br />

c<strong>on</strong>firmati<strong>on</strong>. All wines<br />

are offered <strong>on</strong> a firstcome,<br />

first-served<br />

basis. Some wines are<br />

available <strong>on</strong>ly in<br />

extremely limited<br />

quantities. Spec’s<br />

reserves the right to<br />

limit quantities.<br />

*See Taster's Note p. 24


www.specs<strong>on</strong>line.com<br />

source: www.bordeaux.com


www.specs<strong>on</strong>line.com<br />

No matter who you are or how dispassi<strong>on</strong>ate<br />

you are in looking at wine, if you keep tasting and drinking you<br />

develop some favorites. Maybe you figure out that you like a particular regi<strong>on</strong> or chateau or<br />

the work of a particular winemaker. Maybe you do or d<strong>on</strong>’t like mostly Cabernet Sauvign<strong>on</strong> or mostly<br />

Merlot. <str<strong>on</strong>g>What</str<strong>on</strong>g>ever the key is, you find some favorites – wines you appreciate from vintage to vintage and in which<br />

you c<strong>on</strong>sistently find enjoyment. I’ve been tasting and drinking Bordeaux for l<strong>on</strong>g enough now to have<br />

developed quite a few favorites. Actually, they are more than mere favorites; many of these properties<br />

have become old friends. With little regard to vintage, here is my take <strong>on</strong> them.<br />

Ch. Cos d’Estournel is a sec<strong>on</strong>d growth from St. Estephe that until 1997 was always in the vanguard of the best of the so called “super sec<strong>on</strong>ds”. With<br />

the 1997 vintage, owner/winemaker Bruno Prats retired and sold out. His s<strong>on</strong> Jean Guillaume Prats took over with a c<strong>on</strong>tract from the new owner. The<br />

1997, 1998, 1999, and, to a lesser extent, 2000 Cos d’Estournel were not bad wines but they did not live up to the reputati<strong>on</strong> and prices of the winery.<br />

During this time, when you asked Jean Guillaume a questi<strong>on</strong>, the answer was likely to start with “<strong>My</strong> father does this …”. It was <strong>on</strong>ly a matter of time;<br />

Jean Guillaume Prats broke through in 2001 with an excellent wine that was better than his fine 2000. Then his 2002 topped the 2001.<br />

Now the 2003 has topped them both—and may be the best Cos d’Estournel ever.<br />

Cos is <strong>on</strong> a roll. (Now when you ask about the wines or the winemaking, Jean Guillaume says “I did…). He has c<strong>on</strong>fidence now and it shows in the<br />

wines. The last three vintages have each gained in elegance, finesse and perfume. Cos is not a blockbuster; rather it is an elegant, almost ethereal wine<br />

with a lovely tobacco and black fruit perfume, a hint of Asian spice, and great developmental potential.<br />

The sec<strong>on</strong>d wine of Ch. Cos d’Estournel is Les Pagodes de Cos.<br />

By the way, the “s” in Cos is pr<strong>on</strong>ounced. “Cos” is a Medocaine (the old language of the Medoc) word for hill. Cos’ famous neighbors to the south –<br />

Lafite and Mout<strong>on</strong> – are <strong>on</strong> the next two hill tops and both reference their locati<strong>on</strong> in their names. Lafite actually comes from the c<strong>on</strong>juncti<strong>on</strong> of two<br />

words: “la hite” (the height). Mout<strong>on</strong> is a pun <strong>on</strong> mountain and mutt<strong>on</strong> (Pauillac’s other famous crop after wine is lamb).<br />

Ch. M<strong>on</strong>trose (St. Estephe) and Ch. Beaum<strong>on</strong>t (Haut Medoc) have always sold well in the Houst<strong>on</strong> area if <strong>on</strong>ly due to their geographically familiar names.<br />

M<strong>on</strong>trose has the additi<strong>on</strong>al advantages of being both a top-flight property and St. Estephe’s other sec<strong>on</strong>d growth (with Cos d’Estournel). While Cos<br />

d’Estournel was in its slump, Ch. M<strong>on</strong>trose was producing excellent wines in a bigger and richer style from vineyards <strong>on</strong> the gently sloping plain that looks<br />

across the Gir<strong>on</strong>de estuary to the nuclear power plant in Blaye. That terroir yields wines with richness and spice (sometimes Asian spice like Cos) and even a<br />

bit of earthiness to go al<strong>on</strong>g with the very ripe black fruit and subtle tobacco and spice character. M<strong>on</strong>trose at its best is deep and satisfying. Le Dame de<br />

M<strong>on</strong>trose is the sec<strong>on</strong>d wine of Ch. M<strong>on</strong>trose.


713-526-8787<br />

The beautiful chateau<br />

of Cos d’Estournel.<br />

It is widely known that<br />

Cos's first harvests were<br />

sold in India, where the<br />

wines graced the<br />

sumptuous tables of<br />

Maharajahs and<br />

Nabobs. The famous<br />

Pagodas which<br />

surmount Cos's cellars<br />

and door, sent from the<br />

palace of Zanzibar,<br />

symbolize this<br />

pi<strong>on</strong>eering break out<br />

into the world trade.<br />

It took me awhile to learn to appreciate Pauillac first growth Ch. Lafite. Due to its weightless, even ethereal style, Ch. Lafite is difficult to evaluate young. As<br />

Lafite ages, it turns into that something so special that it can sit atop the Bordeaux pyramid with Latour, Margaux, Cheval Blanc, and Haut Bri<strong>on</strong>. It took me a<br />

few years to see the path from point A to point B. Lafite is all about elegance and perfume, subtlety and integrati<strong>on</strong>. Nothing sticks out and everything fits.<br />

Lafite is not a blockbuster but it doesn’t lack power; it is just seamlessly integrated. The fruit is red and black and the perfume ranges across berries, tobacco,<br />

tea, berry liqueur, and gravelly-minerally earth. The sec<strong>on</strong>d wine of Ch. Lafite is Carruades de Lafite.<br />

Leading first growth Ch. Latour is <strong>on</strong>e of the three most c<strong>on</strong>sistently great properties in Bordeaux. I’ve never tasted a Latour I didn’t enjoy – and that includes<br />

some notorious vintages such as 1991. In great years, Ch. Latour is the blockbuster m<strong>on</strong>ster of the Medoc. In good years, it is still big and typical but director<br />

Frederic Engerer has the good sense and the finesse to scale it back so the wine fits the vintage. He makes the best Latour possible with what each vintage gives<br />

him while still being true to Latour. Latour is all about black fruit and ripeness with layers and layers of complexity from the fruit and soils and oak. I usually<br />

find black fruit, pencil shavings, tobacco, minerals, and subtle but present oak. When very young, the wines can have an almost painful intensity. When<br />

developed, Latour is sublime, rich, and endlessly fascinating to drink. Ch. Latour commercializes three wines: the Grand Vin de Ch. Latour, a sec<strong>on</strong>d wine<br />

called Les Forts de Latour, and a third wine labeled Pauillac. Les Forts de Latour and Pavill<strong>on</strong> Rouge du Ch. Margaux are the best of the sec<strong>on</strong>d wines of<br />

Bordeaux. Some Bordeaux afici<strong>on</strong>ados refer to Les Forts as a sec<strong>on</strong>d wine masquerading as a sec<strong>on</strong>d growth. That’s actually not far from the truth. Latour’s<br />

Pauillac is more the equivalent of most other properties’ sec<strong>on</strong>d wines. Both offer earlier drinking glimpses of the majesty of Latour at substantially lower prices.<br />

Tasting at first growth Ch. Mout<strong>on</strong> also brings tastes of fifth growth fellow Pauillacs d’Armailhac and Clerc Mil<strong>on</strong>. All three are owned by Philippine Rothschild,<br />

daughter of the late Bar<strong>on</strong> Philippe Rothschild. Mout<strong>on</strong> is usually a great ripe blockbuster of a wine that many tasters say (c<strong>on</strong>tinued p. 20)


www.specs<strong>on</strong>line.com<br />

Steve Reynolds is best known<br />

as a producer of great<br />

Cabernet Sauvign<strong>on</strong> under the<br />

Reynolds and Gneiss labels.<br />

He also has a deft hand with<br />

Pinot Noir, making large scale<br />

wines in a uniquely American,<br />

decidely n<strong>on</strong>-Burgundian style<br />

that emphasizes fruit and<br />

power without sacrificing<br />

elegance and complexity.<br />

These are lovely, pleasurefilled<br />

Pinots.<br />

REYNOLDS FAMILY WINERY Pinot Noir, Carneros, 2002<br />

$43.68 btl $486.77 case 12x750ml<br />

This is a big, fuller-bodied, rich style of Pinot Noir that emphasizes dark cherry fruit accented with notes of cola, cedar, and spice<br />

with hints of mixed berry (ripe raspberries) perfume. The texture and feel in the mouth are incredible. The wine is still developing<br />

and opens beautifully in the glass. For at least the next few m<strong>on</strong>ths, this will benefit from being splashed into a decanter and lots of<br />

swirling in the glass. Excellent. Bear’s Score: 94 points.<br />

REYNOLDS FAMILY WINERY Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley, 2002 $43.68 btl $486.77 case 12x750ml<br />

Another full-bodied Pinot Noir from Reynolds, this Russian River Valley winner offers ripe black cherry fruit with perfume from<br />

cherry and berry liqueur and violets. There is a richness of dark earth and chocolate with balancing mineral and cola notes. It is a<br />

very large scale Pinot with a lovely rich texture and succulent feel in the mouth. L<strong>on</strong>g and alive, it develops for as l<strong>on</strong>g as you sip it.<br />

Delicious. Really Excellent. Bear’s Score: 95 points.<br />

CH. MONTELENA Cabernet Sauvign<strong>on</strong>, Napa Valley, 2000<br />

$28.25 btl $311.02 case 12x750ml<br />

This M<strong>on</strong>telena Cabernet is a blend of 80% Cabernet<br />

Sauvign<strong>on</strong> from near Calistoga and 20% Merlot from the<br />

Big Ranch Road area in the cooler southern part of Napa<br />

Valley aged in 20% new oak barrels. The<br />

So<br />

resulting wine is a spicy, ripe, juicy Cabernet packed with<br />

ripe dark berry Cab fruit accented with exotic spice,<br />

perfume, a hint of cherry and plum, and an herbal note<br />

between tea and tobacco. It is elegant, balanced, and<br />

complete. Excellent. Bear's Score: 93 points. (Please note:<br />

this is not the Ch. M<strong>on</strong>telena "Estate Bottled" Cabernet that<br />

sells for over twice this price. Nevertheless, this is a super<br />

bottle of Napa Valley Cabernet at a very good price.)<br />

CH. MONTELENA "30th Vintage" Chard<strong>on</strong>nay<br />

Napa Valley, 2001 $26.49 btl $291.57 case 12x750ml<br />

This night-picked (for cooler grapes and juice) 100%<br />

Chard<strong>on</strong>nay that was 71% "whole cluster" pressed<br />

undergoes no malolactic fermentati<strong>on</strong> and gets <strong>on</strong>ly 15%<br />

new oak. The result is a decidedly age worthy, very<br />

focused Chard<strong>on</strong>nay that actually tastes of Chard<strong>on</strong>nay<br />

fruit with clean banana, pear, lime, and peach notes well<br />

integrated with a fine mineral comp<strong>on</strong>ent and just enough<br />

subtle oak to add structure without obscuring the fruit.<br />

Fine precise feel in the mouth. Lots of character. The<br />

finish lingers <strong>on</strong> and <strong>on</strong>. Very drinkable now but this is<br />

the rare California Chard<strong>on</strong>nay that will improve with<br />

aging for up to ten years.<br />

Excellent. Bear's Score: 92 points.


It is "not very often" that you walk into a Bordeaux negociant's office in Bordeaux and see a bottle of California wine, but that is just<br />

what happened when, <strong>on</strong> March 31st, I walked into the offices of Belland et Meneret and saw two bottles of l'Aventure Optimus. It<br />

was there that I learned that Stephan Asseo had been the owner and winemaker at the highly regarded Domaine de Courteillac in<br />

Bordeaux for fifteen years before selling out and moving to Paso Robles in California. Asseo's Bordeaux c<strong>on</strong>necti<strong>on</strong>s and financial<br />

partnership with M. Belland assure that people in Bordeaux are interested. People in Houst<strong>on</strong> should be too. Asseo has broken free<br />

of the restraints of Bordeaux's AOC system and has embraced both the grapes and the place of Paso Robles. Now, instead of<br />

Cabernet Sauvign<strong>on</strong>, Merlot, and Cabernet Franc, Asseo works with Cabernet Sauvign<strong>on</strong> and Syrah and Zinfandel and Petite Verdot<br />

and Petite Sirah, all often together in <strong>on</strong>e wine. The result - ripe new world fruit and flavor informed by an old world sense of<br />

balance and structure - is alive in the glass and in the mouth. L'Aventure is the primary label from this property. Stephan Ridge is a<br />

sec<strong>on</strong>d label reserved for good, earlier drinking wines that d<strong>on</strong>'t quite make the cut for the l'Aventure wines.<br />

STEPHAN RIDGE, PASO ROBLES, 2001<br />

$21.16 btl $235.73 case 12x750ml<br />

A still very young blend of 70% Syrah and 30%<br />

Cabernet Sauvign<strong>on</strong> aged 13 m<strong>on</strong>ths in sec<strong>on</strong>dand-third-use<br />

French oak barrels and bottled<br />

unfined with a light filtrati<strong>on</strong>, this shows ripe<br />

black raspberry and blueberry fruit with notes<br />

of spicy pepper and dark flowers. Like its big<br />

brothers, it is slow to open but well worth the<br />

wait (and swirling). It comes alive in the glass.<br />

Excellent. Bear's Score: 91 points.<br />

L'AVENTURE OPTIMUS RED<br />

PASO ROBLES, 2001<br />

$34.88 btl $384.02 case 12x750ml<br />

A 15.4 % alcohol blend of 47% Cabernet<br />

Sauvign<strong>on</strong>, 45% Syrah, 3% Petit Verdot and<br />

5% Zinfandel aged 15 m<strong>on</strong>th in 100% new<br />

French oak barrels and bottled unfiltered and<br />

unfined, this is still very young but is<br />

beginning to open up nicely. The fruit is<br />

chunky blackberry and red and black<br />

raspberry accented with complexity from<br />

cedar, tobacco, and pepper. Chewy with<br />

grapey fresh berry tannins, it is a bit rough but<br />

not at all inelegant. This is a huge wine that<br />

needs time to open up; it will benefit from<br />

a rough decanting.<br />

Excellent. Bear's Score: 92+ points.<br />

The stunning, top-of-the-line<br />

l'AVENTURE Estate Cuvee,<br />

Paso Robles, 2001 has sold<br />

out. Be <strong>on</strong> the lookout for<br />

the excellent-to-outstanding<br />

2002 and the L'Aventure<br />

Zinfandel 2001 due to arrive<br />

in the coming m<strong>on</strong>ths.<br />

L'AVENTURE OPTIMUS RED<br />

PASO ROBLES, 2000<br />

$38.85 btl $427.71 case 12x750ml<br />

A blend of 50% Cabernet Sauvign<strong>on</strong>,<br />

40% Syrah, 5% Petit Verdot and 5% Zinfandel<br />

aged 15 m<strong>on</strong>th in 100% new French oak<br />

barrels and bottled unfiltered and unfined,<br />

this is rich and ripe with real weight and<br />

depth. Packed with well integrated dark fruit<br />

in the black cherry, black berry, black<br />

raspberry range with exotic spice and tobacco<br />

nuances, the flavors go <strong>on</strong> and <strong>on</strong>. Chewy,<br />

juicy, and rich, it has a lovely feel in the<br />

mouth. As big as it is, it remains somehow<br />

elegant. This is exciting wine.<br />

Excellent. Bear's Score: 93 points.<br />

L'AVENTURE ESTATE SYRAH<br />

PASO ROBLES, 2001<br />

$38.63 btl $430.37 case 12x750ml<br />

100% Syrah aged in 100% new French oak<br />

barrels for 15 m<strong>on</strong>ths, this is a juicy ripe,<br />

spicy, almost lush Syrah offering black fruit<br />

that leans toward ripe black raspberry with<br />

lots of other ripe berry and cherry nuance<br />

al<strong>on</strong>g with notes of earth and mixed white<br />

and black pepper and a hint of coffee<br />

grounds. It has a lovely texture and rich fine<br />

feel. Excellent. Bear's Score: 91 points.<br />

713-526-8787<br />

Only 700 cases were produced of<br />

this 100% Cabernet Sauvign<strong>on</strong><br />

aged almost three years in toasted<br />

American oak barrels. It is a rich<br />

dusty-juicy cabernet offering lots of<br />

black fruit with a nice cedar and<br />

tobacco complexity. The fruit<br />

and oak are integrating nicely.<br />

Medium-weight and elegant,<br />

the wine has a lovely<br />

texture and feel. This <strong>on</strong>e<br />

has really come together<br />

over the last 6-8 m<strong>on</strong>ths.<br />

Quite satisfying.<br />

Excellent.<br />

Bear's Score:<br />

94 points.<br />

ZD Cabernet<br />

Sauvign<strong>on</strong><br />

Reserve,<br />

Napa Valley<br />

2000<br />

$96.99 btl<br />

$537.62 case<br />

6x750ml


www.specs<strong>on</strong>line.com<br />

Achaval-Ferrer is a small red-wine-<strong>on</strong>ly producer in Mendoza Argentina focusing exclusively <strong>on</strong> estate grown old-vine fruit. Partners<br />

Santiago Achaval and Manuel Ferrer Minetti have purchased four vineyards in differ<br />

ferent ent areas of Mendoza with old vines <strong>on</strong> them<br />

producing Malbec, Cabernet Sauvign<strong>on</strong>, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, and Syrah. The estate's average yield is 1.3-t<strong>on</strong>s-per-acre (as opposed<br />

to over 3-t<strong>on</strong>s-per-acr<br />

-acre for many boutique California producers). Santiago Achaval says that the vineyards make the wines and that the<br />

winemaker's job is to express ess the character of their old vine fruit into the bottle. If Achaval-Ferrer's er's "Quimera" may be thought of as an<br />

ultimate expressi<strong>on</strong> essi<strong>on</strong> of the whole of Mendoza terroir, the single vineyard Altamira Malbec is the expressi<strong>on</strong> essi<strong>on</strong> of <strong>on</strong>e very old vineyard.<br />

ACHAVAL-FERRER Quimera, Mendoza, 2001<br />

$33.50 btl $186.56 case 6x750ml<br />

Quimera is a blend of 54% old vine Cabernet Sauvign<strong>on</strong>, 24% old<br />

vine Malbec, and 22% Merlot (most of the grapes are from the estate<br />

but some come from vineyards under l<strong>on</strong>g term lease) aged in 90%<br />

French and 10% American oak barrels (1/3 new). The result is a<br />

dusty, rich, balanced red offering ample black fruit with notes of<br />

tobacco, dust, pencil-shavings, and Malbec spice. Deeply flavorful, it<br />

lingers in the mouth with fruit and dust to the end. In the glass, it<br />

slowly opens to reveal its perfume. Elegant, medium weight,<br />

balanced and complete. Excellent. Bear's Score: 94 points.<br />

ACHAVAL-FERRER Altamira Malbec, Mendoza, 2001<br />

$72.31 btl $402.88 case 6x750ml<br />

Made from 100% Malbec produced by 80+ year old vines grown<br />

<strong>on</strong> their own roots (ungrafted) in the famous la C<strong>on</strong>sulta area<br />

aged in all new oak barrels (95% French and 5% American), this<br />

is a serious, perfumed, juicy-ripe Malbec. Beautifully integrated<br />

and absolutely complete, it is succulent with grapey black fruit<br />

balanced by notes of tobacco, dust, and pencil shavings with a<br />

perfume that rises through it offering cedar, vanilla, and<br />

potpourri. It lasts and lasts with a lovely feel in the mouth. Truly<br />

delicious. Outstanding. Bear's Score: 96+ points.<br />

After a few years of up-and-down quality, it seems that, with the 2002 vintage, Bouchaine has <strong>on</strong>ce again become<br />

a reliable producer of fine quality Chard<strong>on</strong>nay and Pinot Noir from their vineyard <strong>on</strong> Buchli Stati<strong>on</strong> Road in Carneros.<br />

Part of that renaissance is due to the introducti<strong>on</strong> of a value-priced sec<strong>on</strong>d wine—Buchli Stati<strong>on</strong>—with a colorful<br />

"lettuce box art" label that lets Bouchaine blend some of the better (and still very good) juice that doesn't make the<br />

cut to be in the Bouchaine labeled wines.<br />

BOUCHAINE Chard<strong>on</strong>nay, Carneros, 2002<br />

$15.13 btl $166.50 case 12x750ml<br />

100% Chard<strong>on</strong>nay fermented and aged in a mix of mostly French oak barrels (33% new), this is a minerally, well-focused,<br />

nicely balanced Chard<strong>on</strong>nay with good cool climate fruit showing notes of pineapple, sweet lem<strong>on</strong>, tropical lime, and<br />

pomegranate. It is very clean with a minerally terroir character. Almost Puligny-like. Excellent. Bear's Score: 91 points.<br />

BOUCHAINE Pinot Noir, Carneros, 2002<br />

$15.75 btl $175.50 case 12x750ml<br />

100% Pinot Noir aged 12 m<strong>on</strong>ths in French oak barrels (approximately 40% new) results in a medium-weight Pinot<br />

featuring ripe red cherry fruit with notes of cocoa and earth and a hint of bitter cola nut. Very nicely balanced with a fine<br />

fresh feel. The fine fruit and perfume linger <strong>on</strong>. Excellent. Bear's Score: 91 points.<br />

BUCHLI STATION Chard<strong>on</strong>nay, California, 2002<br />

$10.15 btl $111.75 case 12x750ml<br />

A blend of grapes from Bouchaine's estate and from vineyards in M<strong>on</strong>terey and Edna Valley fermented<br />

in oak barrels (30% new) with a partial malolactic fermentati<strong>on</strong>, this wine is flavorful,<br />

even rich, but in balance and well-focused with notes of tropical fruit, lime, and green<br />

pear. It is alive in the mouth with a l<strong>on</strong>g, clean finish. Fine. Bear's Score: 89+ points.<br />

BUCHLI STATION Pinot Noir, California, 2002<br />

$10.15 btl $111.75 case 12x750ml<br />

100% Pinot Noir fermented in small open top fermenters and aged eight m<strong>on</strong>ths in a mix of French,<br />

US, and Hungarian oak barrels yields this mix of red and black cherry fruit with notes of cola, earth,<br />

and spice. Hints at raspberry and cranberry. Medium-weight and in balance.<br />

Lasts nicely with a bit of chewiness at the end. Fine. Bear's Score: 88+ points.


713-526-8787<br />

pictured below Chal<strong>on</strong>e Chard<strong>on</strong>nay:<br />

Fog over Salinas Valley<br />

Winemaker Dan Karlsen<br />

Chal<strong>on</strong>e is located in a natural bowl at 1700 feet <strong>on</strong> the western slope of Mount Chal<strong>on</strong>e in the Gavilan Range above<br />

M<strong>on</strong>terey County's Salinas Valley. That unique locati<strong>on</strong> gives Chal<strong>on</strong>e the thin, well-drained limest<strong>on</strong>e-based soils,<br />

ample sunlight, and fairly cool temperatures that combine to create an almost ideal terroir for Chard<strong>on</strong>nay and<br />

Pinot Noir. Although Chal<strong>on</strong>e has been a l<strong>on</strong>g time performer with a<br />

str<strong>on</strong>g reputati<strong>on</strong>, the current releases are the best young wines<br />

I've tasted from Chal<strong>on</strong>e. They are delicious<br />

now and show the balance and acidity needed<br />

CHALONE Chard<strong>on</strong>nay<br />

Chal<strong>on</strong>e AVA (M<strong>on</strong>terey) 2002<br />

$22.99 btl $256.10 case 12x750ml<br />

Harvested at 27 brix, this Chal<strong>on</strong>e was barrel<br />

fermented and aged in French oak (30% new). 90%<br />

went through malolactic fermentati<strong>on</strong>. The result of<br />

winemaker Dan Karlsen's technique and grapes from<br />

Chal<strong>on</strong>e's unique terroir is the best Chal<strong>on</strong>e<br />

Chard<strong>on</strong>nay ever. It is a vibrant juicy absolutely alive<br />

Chard<strong>on</strong>nay full of fruit but in thrilling balance. It<br />

offers a lively beam of tree fruit, pomegranate, and<br />

tropical fruit with a hint of minerally green banana.<br />

With great focus and a fine feel, it offers excellent<br />

fruit and texture in a thrilling balance. Super l<strong>on</strong>g, it<br />

stays vibrant to the end. Delicious and elegant. Really<br />

Excellent. Bear's Score: 94+ points.<br />

to improve with more time in<br />

the bottle.<br />

CHALONE Pinot Noir, Chal<strong>on</strong>e AVA (M<strong>on</strong>terey), 2001<br />

$19.75 btl $219.96 case 12x750ml<br />

Harvested at 28 brix, this Chal<strong>on</strong>e Pinot Noir was<br />

fermented in open top punch down tanks and aged 10<br />

m<strong>on</strong>ths in French oak barrels (30% new). With all that,<br />

winemaker Dan Karlsen has made a lovely, well-integrated,<br />

complete Pinot Noir featuring fine mixed ripe red and black<br />

cherry fruit with notes of cola nut and black pepper and a<br />

subtle earthy-mineral terroir character. It is ripe and in<br />

balance with ample flavor and a fine feel in the mouth;<br />

good weight and a lovely, almost ethereal texture. The l<strong>on</strong>g<br />

finish offers perfume to the end. Delicious. This is a<br />

breakout wine. Excellent. Bear's Score: 92 points.<br />

CONDE de VELÁZQUEZ Chard<strong>on</strong>nay, Ac<strong>on</strong>cagua Valley, 2002 $4.99 btl $56.39 case 12x750ml<br />

This balanced, flavorful Chard<strong>on</strong>nay shows good fruit and oak notes <strong>on</strong> the nose but the oak drops back and the ripe pear<br />

and lime fruit takes over in the mouth with a tell-tale hint of banana and a touch of bitter lime peel. A note of oak and some<br />

richness come back in <strong>on</strong> the finish. Clean and balanced, it is a very nice drink. Very Good. Bear's Score: 86 points.<br />

CONDE de VELÁZQUEZ Cabernet Sauvign<strong>on</strong>, Ac<strong>on</strong>cagua Valley, 2002 4.99 btl $56.39 case 12x750ml $<br />

Here's a very fruit-oriented Cabernet with ripe grapey Cabby fruit balanced with some oak and cedar and dusty earth notes<br />

and a hint of herbs. It is in balance and flavorful with a nice texture and a clean finish. Very Good. Bear's Score: 85+ points.<br />

CONDE de VELÁZQUEZ Merlot, Ac<strong>on</strong>cagua Valley, 2002 $4.99 btl $56.39 case 12x750ml<br />

This is a ripe, balanced, black cherry fruit-oriented Merlot made very much in the new fruit-forward California style<br />

(a la Blackst<strong>on</strong>e and Bogle). It is smooth and supple in the mouth with plenty of sweet fruit and a juicy-fresh texture.<br />

Very tasty and quite accessible; almost glugable. Very Good. Bear's Score: 86+ points.<br />

Sometimes I'll taste through a<br />

line of wines and decide I like<br />

the cheaper wines in the line<br />

better than the fancier, higher<br />

priced wines in the line. This<br />

is often because the cheap<br />

wines show little or no effect<br />

from oak barrels. This allows<br />

the fruit to shine while the<br />

fancier blends may be overoaked<br />

so the fruit is all but<br />

obscured. Such is the case<br />

with the C<strong>on</strong>de de Velázquez<br />

wines from the Ac<strong>on</strong>cagua<br />

Valley in Chile. I bought the<br />

basic Chard<strong>on</strong>nay, Cabernet<br />

Sauvign<strong>on</strong>, and Merlot but<br />

turned down the fancier midlevel<br />

stuff. They were OK...<br />

but the cheaper wines tasted<br />

better and offered much more<br />

value. We'll taste the<br />

upper-tier wines so<strong>on</strong>.


Due to some of the same strange market<br />

dynamics that allow for sub-$10 Napa Cabernet,<br />

we currently have great deals <strong>on</strong> two great<br />

Beringer Cabernets: the outstanding 1999<br />

Beringer Private Reserve Cabernet Sauvign<strong>on</strong><br />

and the Excellent 2001 Beringer Knights Valley<br />

Cabernet Sauvign<strong>on</strong>.<br />

BERINGER Private Reserve Cabernet Sauvign<strong>on</strong>,<br />

Napa Valley, 1999<br />

$58.99 btl $353.94 case 6x750ml<br />

This is an elegant, medium-weight, well-balanced,<br />

beautifully perfumed Cabernet featuring lovely<br />

dark berry and cherry fruit with complexity from<br />

tobacco and cedar. Succulent and delicious with a<br />

lovely feel in the mouth, the wine is complete and<br />

perfectly integrated; everything fits. Deep,<br />

flavorful, and absolutely alive through the l<strong>on</strong>g<br />

perfumed finish, it is quite elegant and even<br />

ethereal. For me at least, it pushes all the right<br />

butt<strong>on</strong>s. Outstanding. Bear’s Score: 96+ points.<br />

BERINGER Cabernet Sauvign<strong>on</strong>, Knights Valley,<br />

2000 $13.99 btl $167.88 case 12x750ml<br />

100 percent Cabernet Sauvign<strong>on</strong> from Knights<br />

Valley, this well-balanced, medium-weight red<br />

shows red and black cherry and dark berry fruit<br />

with dusty oak and sweet spice notes and hints of<br />

potpourri, tobacco, and cedar. The texture and<br />

feel are dusty dry. The dry finish lingers with oak<br />

dust and sweet berry perfume to the end.<br />

Excellent. Bear's Score:<br />

91 points.<br />

96+<br />

points<br />

While sipping our bubbly we were shown<br />

around the winery. I d<strong>on</strong>’t think I could<br />

ever see too many wine vats, crusher destemmer<br />

machines or barrels. The<br />

atmosphere of a winery with that musky<br />

smell is <strong>on</strong>e of the things that can transport<br />

you to a different level. It evokes a romance<br />

between the earth, the fruit and the wine,<br />

and you find yourself somehow involved<br />

with the whole process. It’s very mystical.<br />

After the tour, Joy came up to each of us<br />

with two baskets filled with corks. The<br />

women drew from <strong>on</strong>e basket, and the men<br />

drew a cork from the sec<strong>on</strong>d basket. The<br />

corks had numbers written <strong>on</strong> them. We<br />

didn’t know what this was for until we<br />

went to the tables that had been set up for<br />

lunch. At each place, there was another<br />

cork with a number <strong>on</strong> it. To find our seats<br />

we had to match the numbers. It was<br />

really an ingenious way to seat people.<br />

Each table had bottles of wine, opened and<br />

ready for us. Ir<strong>on</strong> Horse Cuvee R, a blend<br />

of Sauvign<strong>on</strong> Blanc and Viognier was my<br />

favorite. Perhaps it was the dedicati<strong>on</strong> to<br />

Forrest’s mother <strong>on</strong> the back label that<br />

drew me <strong>on</strong> Mother’s Day.<br />

by Lindy Rydman<br />

S<strong>on</strong>oma California doing what we like best: enjoying food and wine. The day was simply beautiful<br />

with a light, cool breeze. We, and a group of wine retailers from around the country were the guests of<br />

Joy Sterling and Forrest Tancer, the owners and wine maker for Ir<strong>on</strong> Horse Vineyards. We were met<br />

with a glass of Ir<strong>on</strong> Horse Brut, a light, crisp sparkling wine that went down easily in the spring sun...<br />

Ir<strong>on</strong> Horse Brut Sparkling 1998<br />

750 ml $22.29<br />

Ir<strong>on</strong> Horse Cuvee R 2001<br />

750 ml $17.33<br />

Ir<strong>on</strong> Horse Chard<strong>on</strong>nay 2000<br />

750 ml $19.75<br />

Ir<strong>on</strong> Horse Estate Bottled Pinot Noir<br />

2000<br />

750 ml $24.31<br />

Or perhaps it was the delicious taste that<br />

did it. It was light and clean with a<br />

smooth finish that went especially well<br />

with our salad of fresh fava beans lightly<br />

dressed with olive oil and Parmesan<br />

cheese. The Cuvee R would be great for a<br />

party wine because it’s equally good with<br />

or without food. The Ir<strong>on</strong> Horse<br />

Chard<strong>on</strong>nay was our sec<strong>on</strong>d choice of<br />

white wines. This Chard<strong>on</strong>nay is rich<br />

and luscious, but fresh enough to go<br />

with a salad. Again, this wine is easy to<br />

drink and would be good with a variety<br />

of foods.<br />

Grilled Kobe beef with boiled potatoes<br />

and arugula dressed with truffle oil and<br />

garlic followed the salad course. The Ir<strong>on</strong><br />

Horse Estate Bottled Pinot Noir was<br />

perfect with it. Deep purple in color with<br />

a satiny finish, you could smell black<br />

cherries and exotic spices. It’s a truly<br />

elegant wine without being “fussy” or too<br />

highfalutin'.<br />

We whiled away the afterno<strong>on</strong> enjoying<br />

the company of our hosts. It was a<br />

glorious day.


713-526-8787<br />

By Charles M. Bear Dalt<strong>on</strong><br />

Do your reds have a fever Do your whites have the<br />

chills I've said it before and I'll say it again: wine tastes<br />

better when it is served at the right temperature. So<br />

what's the right temperature It is NOT room<br />

temperature for reds and refrigerator temperature for<br />

whites. At typical Houst<strong>on</strong> summer room temperatures<br />

(75-78°), red wines feel warm and the alcohol dominates<br />

the aromatics. At typical refrigerator temperature (34-<br />

38°), white wines (and rose and Champagne) are too<br />

cold to release much in the way of aroma and flavor.<br />

Red wines should always be served at cellar temperature<br />

(55-60°). At 60°, the fruit aromas are able to show their<br />

best and the alcohol is muted. The wines both taste<br />

better and feel better in the mouth. This is particularly<br />

important with today's higher alcohol, riper-style red<br />

wines. It is much better to serve reds a little bit too cool<br />

rather than any bit too warm. They will gradually (or in<br />

Houst<strong>on</strong> in the summer maybe not so gradually) warm<br />

up in "room temperature" surroundings.<br />

By the same token, white wines should be removed from<br />

the refrigerator and allowed to warm up a bit so that they<br />

are in the 45-48° range when they are served. That ten<br />

degrees makes all the difference in the world as to the<br />

flavors and aromatics of a white wine and how the wine<br />

feels in the mouth. I can think of no wine I'd ever<br />

intenti<strong>on</strong>ally serve colder than 45°. A rich, full-bodied<br />

Chard<strong>on</strong>nay from California or Burgundy might even be<br />

better served as warm as 55° (the minimum temperature<br />

for serving red wines).<br />

Knowing the right temperature and serving the wines at<br />

the right temperature are two different things. So how do<br />

you get the wines to the right temperature The best way<br />

is to have temperature c<strong>on</strong>trolled wine storage. It doesn't<br />

have to be a wine room or closet or even an armoir-sized<br />

unit. There are 24 and 30 bottle units available that are<br />

smaller than a dishwasher. Once you get used to having<br />

<strong>on</strong>e of these and serving your wines at the right<br />

temperature, you'll w<strong>on</strong>der how you ever made it<br />

without <strong>on</strong>e.<br />

If temperature c<strong>on</strong>trolled storage is not practical for you,<br />

there are other ways. Cool reds off quickly by decanting<br />

them into a glass carafe you keep in the freezer. The<br />

frozen carafe will quickly cool the wine which can then<br />

be poured from the carafe into glasses. It is a good idea to<br />

keep a plastic bag over the open end of the carafe with a<br />

rubber band to keep it sealed to keep any "off" aromas<br />

from accumulating in the carafe. Also, plastic ice cubes<br />

added to a glass of already poured too-warm red will get<br />

things back in order without diluting the wine.<br />

Unfortunately, refrigerator temperature whites just take a<br />

while to warm up. One piece of good news is that they<br />

do warm up faster in the glass than they do in the bottle.<br />

If they get too warm too so<strong>on</strong>, just add a couple of the<br />

aforementi<strong>on</strong>ed plastic ice cubes and you are set.<br />

If you follow this advice, your wines will taste better<br />

and be more refreshing. You'll be drinking better and<br />

enjoying your wine more without spending any more<br />

m<strong>on</strong>ey.<br />

BECKMEN<br />

Cuvee Le Bec,<br />

Santa Ynez<br />

2002<br />

$12.92 bottle $143.91 case<br />

12x750ml<br />

A very Chateauneuf-like blend of 46%<br />

Grenache. 23% Mourvedre, 22% Syrah,<br />

and 9% Counoise, this is a lovely,<br />

succulent red that splits the difference<br />

between the southern Rh<strong>on</strong>e and<br />

Aussie GSM wines. It offers fine grapey<br />

mixed berry fruit accented with mixed<br />

black and white pepper, spice, and a bit<br />

of earthy terroir charater. It is wellintegrated<br />

enough to be hard to<br />

describe but it is very easy to drink.<br />

Lovely wine. Excellent.<br />

Bear's Score: 92 points.<br />

IRONSTONE<br />

Xpressi<strong>on</strong>,<br />

California<br />

2003<br />

$5.77 bottle $64.25 case 12x750ml<br />

It doesn't matter whether you treat this<br />

as a dark, rich rose or a light-weight<br />

chillable red. <str<strong>on</strong>g>What</str<strong>on</strong>g> you get is a fresh,<br />

refreshing light-weight, semi-dry wine<br />

offering good cherry, cranberry, and<br />

strawberry fruit with notes of earth<br />

and black pepper and just enough<br />

residual sugar to make it very<br />

refreshing and allow it to accompany<br />

spicy foods. I think of it as a fairly<br />

serious semi-dry rose. Keep an open<br />

mind and serve it with spicy gumbo or<br />

jambalaya, spicy fried chicken, or<br />

outdoor dining that requires a cool or<br />

even cold "red" wine. Surprisingly<br />

delicious. Very Good. Bear's Score:<br />

86+ points.


www.specs<strong>on</strong>line.com<br />

(c<strong>on</strong>tinued from p. 13)<br />

has an almost California style, due to ripe blackberry fruit with lots of cedar and tobacco and even pencil shavings, al<strong>on</strong>g with dusty gravelly terroir notes and<br />

a healthy dose of oak. Some of this style extends to the lesser siblings Clerc Mil<strong>on</strong> and d’Armailhac. I tend to like the less expensive d’Armailhac better as a<br />

barrel sample and for the first five or so years after the vintage than its sibling Clerc Mil<strong>on</strong>. After five or so years, Clerc Mil<strong>on</strong> seems to pass d’Armailhac and<br />

c<strong>on</strong>tinue to develop. To me, d’Armailhac has more power and fruit while Clerc has more elegance and balance.<br />

In 1926, a large part of the famous Pauillac sec<strong>on</strong>d growth Ch. Pich<strong>on</strong> L<strong>on</strong>gueville was sold. The new property was called Ch. Pich<strong>on</strong> L<strong>on</strong>gueville Comtesse de<br />

Lalande and is now widely known as Pich<strong>on</strong> Lalande. The unsold porti<strong>on</strong> then became Ch. Pich<strong>on</strong> L<strong>on</strong>gueville Bar<strong>on</strong> de L<strong>on</strong>gueville and is now widely known<br />

as Pich<strong>on</strong> Bar<strong>on</strong>. The two chateaux face each other across the main road from St. Julien to Pauillac. Although they are formerly <strong>on</strong>e property, the wines are quite<br />

different. Pich<strong>on</strong> lalande is an elegant, somehow feminine wine with an ethereal, perfumed character. It is much easier to evaluate in the sec<strong>on</strong>d and third years<br />

than in the first where it is often overlooked due to its unforthcoming nature. Ch. Pich<strong>on</strong> Bar<strong>on</strong> went through an underperforming slump until it was<br />

purchased by AXA in the 1980s. AXA installed Lynch Bages owner Jean Michel Cazes to manage the property. He quickly got things in order. With its juicyripe,<br />

straight forward, classically Pauillac style, Pich<strong>on</strong> Bar<strong>on</strong> has since taken its place am<strong>on</strong>g the best of the sec<strong>on</strong>d growths. It is always interesting to see<br />

which of the Pich<strong>on</strong>s made the best wine in a particular vintage. In most vintages, both Pich<strong>on</strong>s offer the complete package. The sec<strong>on</strong>d wine of Pich<strong>on</strong> Lalande<br />

is Reserve de la Comtesse. The sec<strong>on</strong>d wine of Pich<strong>on</strong> Bar<strong>on</strong> is les Tourelles de L<strong>on</strong>gueville.<br />

Affecti<strong>on</strong>ately known as “Lunch Bags”, Ch. Lynch Bages is owned and run by University of Texas-ex (yes, really) Jean Michel Cazes. A classic Pauillac featuring<br />

dark berry fruit, a berry liqueur perfume, dust, pencil shavings, and tobacco, Lynch Bages is an over achiever that routinely makes better wine than its fourth<br />

growth status would indicate. An added b<strong>on</strong>us is that the gregarious Cazes travels to Houst<strong>on</strong> at least every couple of years to present and talk about his wines.<br />

The sec<strong>on</strong>d wine of Lynch Bages is Haut Bages Averous.<br />

Fifth growth Ch. Batailley used to be a lot bigger, encompassing the vineyards of Haut Batailley as well those that are now its own. When the property was<br />

split, the existing chateau went with the Batailley name. Ch. Batailley is classic old style Pauillac. It rarely gets great marks when tasted young (it also never gets<br />

bad marks) but it is the sort of wine, like Gruaud Larose in St. Julien, that really rewards the time you cellar it with development and improved flavor. When I<br />

think of Batailley, I think of black fruit, pencil shavings, and tobacco with a rich but rustic feel. Ch. Batailley just tastes good every time I drink it.<br />

The Borie family have l<strong>on</strong>g owned Chx. Ducru Beaucaillou St. Julien, Grand Puy Lacoste Pauillac, Haut Batailley Pauillac, and Lalande Borie St. Julien. Until the<br />

2003 vintage Francois Xavier Borie managed all four properties. The chateaux are listed above in the order of their precedence, with sec<strong>on</strong>d growth Ch. Ducru<br />

Beaucaillou being the undisputed flagship property. At all four chateaux, the wines made under Francois Xavier’s regime were true to their appellati<strong>on</strong>s and<br />

often am<strong>on</strong>g the best in their classes. All are elegant, balanced wines that show plenty of fruit character and never had any harsh, over-extracted characteristics<br />

sometimes seen when a wine maker is trying too hard to make a great wine. Through the nineties and into this decade, the wines have improved vintage by<br />

vintage. With the 2003 vintage, older brother Bruno Borie has returned to the chateaux side of the Borie family's business. The brothers have split<br />

resp<strong>on</strong>sibilities and now each runs two of the chateaux. Bruno Borie has the two St. Juliens and Francois Xavier Borie has the two Pauillacs.<br />

Francois Xavier (who lives with his wife and children at Grand Puy Lacoste) is working to further improve the two fifth growth Pauillac chateaux as he focuses<br />

in <strong>on</strong> Grand Puy Lacoste and Haut Batailley. When I think of these two Pauillacs, I think of dark, ripe but still forward fruit and complexity in the pencil<br />

shavings and tobacco range with a gravelly-minerally nuance. Grand Puy Lacoste is a bit bigger and richer and a bit more intense due to its better terroir. Ch.<br />

Haut Batailley has l<strong>on</strong>g been a pers<strong>on</strong>al favorite as a Pauillac priced where I can drink it <strong>on</strong> a fairly regular basis. The sec<strong>on</strong>d labels of both properties will<br />

become more important as more severe selecti<strong>on</strong> is made to make the first wines from both chateaux even better. The sec<strong>on</strong>d label of Ch. Grand Puy Lacoste is<br />

Ch. Lacoste Borie. The sec<strong>on</strong>d wine of Ch. Haut Batailley is Ch. Tour d’Aspic. All four of these wines are well worth seeking out.<br />

Spec’s is <strong>on</strong>e of the first to bring Tour d’Aspic to the US.<br />

Bruno Borie seems to be changing the style of the formerly very elegant, perfumed Ducru Beaucaillou to something more like the rich style of Margaux’s Ch.<br />

Palmer. In 2003, he has succeeded in making a very good rich style wine that represents a departure <strong>on</strong>to a new path for Ducru Beaucaillou. The wine is<br />

excellent but it doesn’t taste quite like the great Ducrus I remember from 1995, 1996, 1999, and 2000. As this style change will change the way Ducru tastes<br />

and develops, this chateau’s track record is now largely out the window. The fact is that Ducru has great terroir and the wines should c<strong>on</strong>tinue to be very high<br />

in quality. The 2nd wine of Ch. Ducru Beaucaillou is Croix de Beaucaillou.The unclassified Ch. Lalande Borie offers a juicy fresh, easy drinking style of St.<br />

Julien that I find very enjoyable. It also seems to be getting a bit better with each vintage.


713-526-8787<br />

There are three Leovilles: Leoville Bart<strong>on</strong>, Leoville Poyferre, and Leoville las Cases. It used to be <strong>on</strong>e large property that got divided into the current three<br />

estates. All three are classed as sec<strong>on</strong>d growths. The three estates make their wines differently and each has admirers. Leoville Bart<strong>on</strong> and Leoville Poyferre use<br />

their terroir to make ripe, generous, forwardly appealing wines with typical sweet St. Julien Cabernet fruit. They have the potential to age and develop<br />

beautifully. Both wines are a pleasure to drink at almost any age. Leoville las Cases is a different animal altogether. Las Cases tries very hard to be a "serious<br />

wine" as its owner would like to see it become a first growth. To that end, he makes powerful brooding backward wines that are serious but at least to me are<br />

not much fun to drink. I haven’t had a Leoville las Cases younger than 1981 that I thought was ready to drink. I w<strong>on</strong>der if some of them ever will be. To be<br />

fair, Leoville las Cases has many admirers and Robert Parker may be chief am<strong>on</strong>gst them.The sec<strong>on</strong>d wine of Leoville Poyferre is Moulin Riche. The sec<strong>on</strong>d<br />

wine of Leoville Las Cases is Clos du Marquis. Technically speaking, Leoville Bart<strong>on</strong> doesn’t have a sec<strong>on</strong>d wine.<br />

Anth<strong>on</strong>y Bart<strong>on</strong> owns both Ch. Langoa Bart<strong>on</strong> and Ch. Leoville Bart<strong>on</strong>. As Leoville Bart<strong>on</strong> does not have its own chateau, the wines are made at Langoa<br />

Bart<strong>on</strong>. Nevertheless, Langoa Bart<strong>on</strong> is sometimes lost in Leoville Bart<strong>on</strong>’s shadow and that is a shame. In their own right, the wines of third growth Langoa are<br />

fine mid-range St. Juliens. While not so excellent as the sec<strong>on</strong>d growth Leovilles, Ducru, or Gruaud, they are c<strong>on</strong>sistently fine and usually are very fairly priced.<br />

Unlike some of his neighbors, Anth<strong>on</strong>y Bart<strong>on</strong> is a realist about wine prices. Bart<strong>on</strong> combines the sec<strong>on</strong>d wines of Langoa Bart<strong>on</strong> and Leoville Bart<strong>on</strong> into <strong>on</strong>e<br />

cuvee called Lady Langoa which is seldom seen in the US.<br />

Old Bordeaux hands will tell you that sec<strong>on</strong>d growth Gruaud Larose rewards patient aging as well as any wine from Bordeaux. And they are right. I’ve had lots<br />

of young Gruauds that wanted a bit more fruit or a bit more complexity. I’ve never had an old Gruaud I wasn’t thrilled with. The property is all about finesse<br />

and balance and elegance. Somehow, the fruit always emerges and the perfume comes <strong>on</strong>. This is the chateau to buy to keep.<br />

First growth Ch. Margaux is gorgeous. And the wines from Ch. Margaux are gorgeous. They are powerful but feminine with a luxurious but subtle perfume and a<br />

texture somewhere between Lafite’s weightlessness and Latour’s power. The fruit is red and black and the complexity is in the tobacco and pencil shavings range<br />

with a very subtle earth note. Of all Bordeaux chateaux, Margaux has the power most often to transport me in the same way that great art or great music does.<br />

Margaux’s Sec<strong>on</strong>d Label is Pavill<strong>on</strong> Rouge du Ch. Margaux. There is also a 100% Sauvign<strong>on</strong> Blanc white grown <strong>on</strong> the estate called Pavill<strong>on</strong> Blanc du Ch. Margaux.<br />

Sec<strong>on</strong>d growth Ch. Rauzan Segla began a renaissance in 1994 when the property was purchased by Chanel and John Kolasa (formerly of Ch. Latour) was<br />

installed as director. Chanel spent more refurbishing the vineyards, expanding and improving the winery and remodeling the chateau than they spent buying<br />

the property. Rauzan Segla (formerly “Rausan Segla” – Chanel “reclaimed the zede”) is now a showplace in all senses: Viticulturally, viniculturally, and from an<br />

architecture and design standpoint. The wines had slumped badly in quality before Chanel. John Kolasa’s first task was to blend an acceptable wine from the<br />

1993 that was in barrel. He did so by creating a sec<strong>on</strong>d wine, Segla, and selling unsuitable barrels in bulk. Now Rauzan Segla averages 40-45% Grand Vin,<br />

35-45% Segla, and 10-25% wine that does not make the cut and is sold <strong>on</strong> the bulk Bordeaux market as generic Margaux with no right to the chateau’s name.<br />

Kolasa’s improvements include new tanks that fit each vineyard block, large new plantings of Petite Verdot, improved drainage in all the vineyards, and much<br />

more. The results are impossible to argue with. Rauzan Segla is a classy, balanced, flavorful wine with classic Margaux perfume made in a medium-weight,<br />

decidedly n<strong>on</strong>-blockbuster but absolutely lovely style. This chateau has not had a single misstep under the current management.<br />

Most Bordeaux afici<strong>on</strong>ados would argue that Ch. Haut Bri<strong>on</strong> and Ch. La Missi<strong>on</strong> Haut Bri<strong>on</strong> are numbers <strong>on</strong>e and two in the Graves pecking order. They are<br />

located directly across the road from <strong>on</strong>e another (<strong>on</strong> the “Haut Bri<strong>on</strong> Plateau”) and both are owned by the Dill<strong>on</strong> family, who also own La Missi<strong>on</strong>’s next-door<br />

neighbor Ch. La Tour Haut Bri<strong>on</strong>. When you taste at Haut Bri<strong>on</strong> or La Missi<strong>on</strong>, you taste all three of these wines plus Bahans Haut Bri<strong>on</strong> (the sec<strong>on</strong>d wine of<br />

Haut Bri<strong>on</strong>) and la Chapelle de la Missi<strong>on</strong> (the sec<strong>on</strong>d wine of La Missi<strong>on</strong> Haut Bri<strong>on</strong>) and the two whites from the flagship properties, Ch. Haut Bri<strong>on</strong> Blanc<br />

and Laville Haut Bri<strong>on</strong>. This is <strong>on</strong>e of my favorite stops every year <strong>on</strong> the Bordeaux wine tour. The wines are always at least fine, often excellent, and more than<br />

occasi<strong>on</strong>ally outstanding.The reds are a balanced mix of Cabernet Sauvign<strong>on</strong>, Merlot, and Cabernet Franc. They reflect that balance with a great mix of berry,<br />

cherry, and plum fruit swirled with gravelly minerals and a distinctive tobacco and cedar perfume. The results are the standard for the rest of Pessac Leognan<br />

(the best part of Graves).The whites are balanced blends of Sauvign<strong>on</strong> Blanc and Semill<strong>on</strong> that are barrel-fermented and aged and undergo full malolactic<br />

fermentati<strong>on</strong>. They are often stunning in their richness and focus with tropical lime and pear fruit and the essences of peach and lem<strong>on</strong>, sweet oak, and a<br />

distinctive gravelly mineral character. As rich as they are, they are balanced with lively lime acidity and that swirl of minerality. The sec<strong>on</strong>d wines of the two<br />

whites are blended into <strong>on</strong>e label and marketed as Plantiers du Haut Bri<strong>on</strong>.


www.specs<strong>on</strong>line.com<br />

Administrator Ver<strong>on</strong>ique Sanders (daughter of the former owners) has quietly made Ch. Haut Bailly <strong>on</strong>e of the hot properties<br />

in Pessac Leognan. Producing <strong>on</strong>ly red wine, Haut Bailly is year-in-and-year-out <strong>on</strong>e of the best new wines of the appellati<strong>on</strong>.<br />

Older vintages age gracefully gaining a rich texture to go with great elegance and finesse. The fruit is mostly dark berry with<br />

some red cherry and a lovely tobacco and earth perfume. I doubt Haut Bailly will ever be trendy but it is always satisfying.<br />

The sec<strong>on</strong>d wine is La Parde.<br />

As far back in my wine drinking life as I can remember, Ch. Smith Haut Lafitte in Pessac Leognan has been a favorite<br />

producer of both red and white wines. The reds are elegant, balanced, full flavored, medium-weight clarets. The freshly<br />

balanced whites, predominantly Sauvign<strong>on</strong> Blanc with enough Semill<strong>on</strong> for fatness, display fresh white peach, green pear,<br />

and lime fruit with hints of tropical character and a lovely fruit-mineral perfume.<br />

Andre Lurt<strong>on</strong> owns Ch. La Louviere. And Ch. Couhins Lurt<strong>on</strong>. And Ch. Cruzeau, and Ch. Rochemorin, and<br />

Ch. Coucheroy, and Ch. B<strong>on</strong>net, etc. The beautifully restored La Louviere is the flagship property. La Louviere makes an<br />

earthy rich red wine with a slightly rustic but still elegant, balanced feel. The white is a bit more rich than refreshing but still<br />

full of fruit flavor and subtle, supple oak over the minerals of Graves. Both are very satisfying. La Louviere is a favorite but<br />

Lurt<strong>on</strong>’s other properties are all well worth a look, especially from a value standpoint. The pi<strong>on</strong>eering Lurt<strong>on</strong> will<br />

bottle La Louviere’s 2003s with a Stelvin (screw-cap) closure.<br />

Ch. Carb<strong>on</strong>nieux makes red wine from Pessac Leognan but is best known in the US for its reference standard white<br />

made mostly from Sauvign<strong>on</strong> Blanc. This white is all about freshness and perfume with crisply balanced bright citrus and<br />

tree fruit over minerals and acid structure, all with no discernable oak flavor. This is a year-in-year-out favorite that will sell<br />

<strong>on</strong>ly a few cases as futures but does very well off the shelf <strong>on</strong> release. Thomas Jeffers<strong>on</strong> took a pecan tree<br />

to Carb<strong>on</strong>nieux that is still growing there.<br />

Owned by the Thienp<strong>on</strong>t family and made by Alexandre Thienp<strong>on</strong>t, visiting Vieux Ch. Certan (VCC) in Pomerol is more like<br />

visiting Burgundy except the trip to the cellar does not involve going down a flight of stairs. Everything is small here: The<br />

average producti<strong>on</strong> is 4000 cases. In 2003, VCC made <strong>on</strong>ly 800 cases. The estate is unique in Pomerol in that it is planted<br />

with about 40% Cabernet Franc to accompany the 60% Merlot. The very high proporti<strong>on</strong> of Cabernet Franc gives the wine<br />

complexity, elegance, and dimensi<strong>on</strong>. The flavors are subtle cherry and plum fruit with a perfume that runs from tobacco to<br />

berry liqueur. The wine often bears more resemblance to Cheval Blanc (across the border in St. Emili<strong>on</strong>) with which VCC<br />

shares both similar terroir and that high proporti<strong>on</strong> of Cabernet Franc.<br />

The 2nd wine of VCC is Gravette de Certan. Both VCC and Gravette are very pretty wines.<br />

I often stop first at Ch. Cheval Blanc (<strong>on</strong>e of the acknowledged two great wines—with Ch. Aus<strong>on</strong>e—of St. Emili<strong>on</strong>)<br />

and next at VCC—or vice versa. That habit has c<strong>on</strong>vinced me of how close these two properties are in style and quality.<br />

The differences are more of scale than style. Cheval Blanc is a bit better structured and may be more<br />

age-worthy; VCC is prettier and more perfumed.<br />

The sec<strong>on</strong>d wine of Cheval Blanc is Petite Cheval.<br />

Hubert de Bouard, l<strong>on</strong>gtime owner of Ch. Angelus in St. Emili<strong>on</strong>, also owns Ch. La Fleur St. Georges in Lalande de Pomerol.<br />

Angelus, like Cheval Blanc and Can<strong>on</strong> la Gaffeliere, is planted to a relatively high volume of Cabernet Franc and so makes a<br />

more elegant, balanced (are you starting to see a theme here) style than your run-of-the-mill St. Emili<strong>on</strong>. (c<strong>on</strong>tinued p. 23)


713-526-8787<br />

(c<strong>on</strong>tinued from p. 22)<br />

Bouard’s wine is particularly elegant. Quality here is very high due to meticulous attenti<strong>on</strong> to detail and great professi<strong>on</strong>alism and pride.<br />

He translates that care and style to Lalande de Pomerol with three wines from the La Fleur St. Georges. The original wine from the chateau is called Ch. La Fleur St. Georges.<br />

When walking the vineyard after he purchased LA Fleur St. Georges, Bouard noticed a natural break where the soil changed. He harvested and fermented the two sides of<br />

the break separately and realized he had two distinct terroirs yielding two distinct wines that were each better unblended with the other. He sells the more classic wine as<br />

Ch. Lafleur St. Georges and the richer wine as Ch. La Fleur de Bouard. He has further made a luxury cuvee selecti<strong>on</strong> of the La Fleur de Bouard secti<strong>on</strong> that he calls Le Plus<br />

de Ch. La Fleur de Bouard. Each is unique and different and the latter two get a great deal of attenti<strong>on</strong> as the new wave of Lalande de Pomerol and even favorable menti<strong>on</strong><br />

versus more expensive wines from Pomerol. I think the basic La Fleur St. Georges is a great value and offers the sort of balanced,<br />

n<strong>on</strong>-showy wine I want for regular drinking with meals.<br />

The always dapper Count Niepperg owns Can<strong>on</strong> La Gaffeliere, Clos de l’Oratoire, and La M<strong>on</strong>dotte in St. Emili<strong>on</strong> and Ch. d’Aiguilhe in Cotes de Castill<strong>on</strong> and Clos<br />

Marsalette in Pessac Leognan. In additi<strong>on</strong> to his ownership and the care and attenti<strong>on</strong> to detail and striving for excellence that comes with that, all five properties share the<br />

facts that they are all over 60% Merlot and that they are made by Stefan Deren<strong>on</strong>court. There may be no <strong>on</strong>e in St. Emili<strong>on</strong> with a more deft hand with Merlot than<br />

Deren<strong>on</strong>court. The wines are made with Burgundian punch down (pigeage) technique in Burgundian (wide, shallow, open-topped) tanks. They are barrel aged but generally<br />

not racked; instead they are gently oxygenated using microbiolage. The result is rich but balanced wines that retain their primary fruit flavors and dem<strong>on</strong>strate an almost<br />

Burgundian level of terroir character in the finished wine.<br />

Madame Claude La Barre, a former partner in Ch. Cheval Blanc, owns Ch. Laplagnotte Bellevue in St. Emili<strong>on</strong>. She brings that high level pursuit of excellence and the<br />

expectati<strong>on</strong> of quality with her. For several years now, Ch. Laplagnotte Bellevue is my favorite sub-$30 wine from St. Emili<strong>on</strong>. The familiar themes of elegance and balance<br />

are there in a wine that shows fine red fruit flavors accented by hints of terroir, tobacco, and, in ripe vintages, cedar. This is always a pleasure to drink. Older vintages have<br />

proven to age well with good development to repay the time invested keeping the wine in the cellar.<br />

Jean Gazaniol, the owner of Ch. Parenchere, may be the straightest shooter I’ve met in the wine business. He tells it the way he sees it and doesn’t worry about the politics.<br />

Although located in a relative backwater of Bordeaux in an obscure, right bank area well below St. Emili<strong>on</strong>, Ch. Parenchere is blessed with fine terroir which allows<br />

Cabernet Sauvign<strong>on</strong> to ripen in an area where it normally doesn’t. And Gazaniol lavishes the same care and technique found at classified growths <strong>on</strong> the left bank <strong>on</strong> the<br />

producti<strong>on</strong> of his estate. Three wines are made: a delightful rose labeled Ch. Parenchere Clairet, the flagship red wine of the estate labeled Ch. Parenchere, and an old vine<br />

cuvee labeled Ch. Parenchere Cuvee Raphael Gazanoil. These excellent everyday-priced Bordeaux values are not offered as futures.<br />

Ch. Puygueraud in the Cotes de Francs (which abuts the Cotes de Castill<strong>on</strong> which abuts St. Emili<strong>on</strong>) is the home of the Thienp<strong>on</strong>t family who also own Ch. le Pin and<br />

Vieux Ch. Certan. Puygueraud is an every-day priced red based <strong>on</strong> Merlot with some Cabernet Franc and Malbec typically in the blend. This charming wine is fruit driven<br />

with a rich texture. It is a c<strong>on</strong>sistent favorite in the range of lower priced Bordeaux. The chateau also makes a special cuvee called Georges Cuvee de Ch. Puygueraud which<br />

is built around old vine Malbec. It is a dusty, rich, spicy cuvee with plenty of fruit and a bit more terroir character.<br />

drinking the wines from all these properties<br />

both great and small. Even if I could afford to<br />

drink nothing but the great growths of the<br />

Medoc, I wouldn’t. There is so much good wine<br />

out there in every price range with a huge range<br />

of flavors and styles, it would be a shame to limit<br />

myself to any few. I’d almost feel as if I had been<br />

cut-off from old friends because I’ve gotten to<br />

know all these chateaux and their wines very<br />

well over the years. —Bear Dalt<strong>on</strong>


ABOUT THE ACCOMPANYING SCORES:<br />

Accompanying the wines listed in these offers are scores listed under “Parker’s<br />

Score”; these are from Robert M. Parker, Jr.'s The Wine Advocate. Those scores<br />

listed under “Spectator Score" are from The Wine Spectator. Those scores listed<br />

under “Tanzer's Score" are from Stephen Tanzer’s The Internati<strong>on</strong>al Wine Cellar.<br />

Spec's encourages our customers interested in wine to subscribe to these fine<br />

publicati<strong>on</strong>s. The Wine Advocate can be c<strong>on</strong>tacted for subscripti<strong>on</strong>s by ph<strong>on</strong>e at<br />

410-329-6477. The Wine Spectator may be c<strong>on</strong>tacted for new subscripti<strong>on</strong>s by<br />

ph<strong>on</strong>e at 1-800-752-7799. The Internati<strong>on</strong>al Wine Cellar may be c<strong>on</strong>tacted by ph<strong>on</strong>e<br />

at 1-800-946-3505.<br />

"Bear's Scores” are taken from my tasting notes made during trips to Bordeaux for<br />

the Uni<strong>on</strong> des Grands Crus Tastings in late March (2003 and 2004).—Bear Dalt<strong>on</strong><br />

sure to impress whover is <strong>on</strong> your list, without<br />

impressing too much up<strong>on</strong> your wallet! Our Wine Department is <strong>on</strong>e of the<br />

most knowledgeable in the industry, and they will send two bottles of wine,<br />

carefully chosen from our incredible selecti<strong>on</strong>, al<strong>on</strong>g with complete descripti<strong>on</strong>s<br />

of the wines, possible food pairings and even appropriate toasts. Choose<br />

M<strong>on</strong>thly or Semi-M<strong>on</strong>thly—you will be appreciated throughout the year!<br />

MONTHLY<br />

Two bottles of<br />

wine every m<strong>on</strong>th<br />

SEMI-MONTHLY<br />

Two bottles of wine<br />

every other m<strong>on</strong>th<br />

455.99 227.99<br />

new basic red<br />

argentina<br />

VINA ANTIGUA<br />

Sangiovese-B<strong>on</strong>ardo, Maipu, 2002<br />

3.99 btl 45.48 case<br />

Try this value-priced blend of Sangiovese<br />

and B<strong>on</strong>ardo from Argentina's Maipu<br />

district. It offers spicy cherry fruit with<br />

good ripeness, nice notes of earth and<br />

spice and a dusty dry, chewy<br />

character. This super value is perfect<br />

as an everyday red for pizza, pasta,<br />

burgers, or whatever. Very Good.<br />

Bear's Score: 85 points. 12x750ml<br />

NORTH/NORTHWEST<br />

5050 FM 1960 West 281-893-5080<br />

6765 Hwy 6 North 281-855-1759<br />

1420 Kingwood Dr. 281-359-7115<br />

7413 Louetta 281-370-1986<br />

13313 Kuykendahl 281-873-5220<br />

25044 IH 45 North 281-362-9131<br />

17414 Northwest Frwy 713-983-8827<br />

27620 Highway 249 281-351-6007<br />

SOUTH/SOUTHEAST/EAST<br />

1029 Bay Area Blvd 281-486-9558<br />

3120 Nasa Rd One 281-326-5127<br />

NOW<br />

OPEN!<br />

SPEC'S NEIGHBORHOOD STORES:<br />

196 Gulf Freeway South 281-316-2140<br />

8714 Stella Link 713-667-7277<br />

2314 W. Holcombe 713-669-1722<br />

Woodforest @ BWY 8 713-637-7327<br />

WEST/SOUTHWEST<br />

7766 Hwy 6 South 281-530-2595<br />

3335 Hwy 6 South 281-313-4444<br />

11990 Westheimer 281-497-0413<br />

8102 Westheimer 713-780-2573<br />

1640 S. Mas<strong>on</strong> Road 281-395-6262<br />

963 Bunker Hill 713-464-2216<br />

14625 Memorial 281-870-9778<br />

ATASCOCITA: 7034 FM 1960 East 281-812-3100<br />

BEAUMONT: 5876 Eastex Freeway 409-835-5931<br />

Prices advertised include Spec’s 5% discount for cash.<br />

All bottles are 750 ml unless otherwise specified. Not all<br />

products may be available at all locati<strong>on</strong>s, some prices<br />

may vary and are subject to change. Hours of operati<strong>on</strong> are<br />

10:00 am to 9:00 pm, M<strong>on</strong>day through Saturday, or visit us<br />

<strong>on</strong> the web at www.specs<strong>on</strong>line.com

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