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Flan de la casa con natas en texturas - Foods From Spain

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ORGANIC AGRICULTURE<br />

A tale of two organic<br />

producers<br />

1. BIOCAMPO<br />

This is the cutting edge, the serious face<br />

of Spanish organic vegetable production<br />

on a high-powered scale. Biocampo is a<br />

producer in San Pedro <strong>de</strong>l Pinatar,<br />

Murcia, and a family business run by the<br />

three Sapor brothers. The family began<br />

growing organically 15 years ago and<br />

have se<strong>en</strong> business grow expon<strong>en</strong>tially,<br />

with year-on-year increases of up to 30%.<br />

Biocampo now has 300 ha (741 acres) of<br />

op<strong>en</strong>-air cultivation and 28 ha (69 acres)<br />

of gre<strong>en</strong>houses, of which 150 ha (370<br />

acres) belong to the company (the rest is<br />

r<strong>en</strong>ted <strong>la</strong>nd). The vast majority of its huge<br />

production of onions, peppers, zucchini,<br />

cucumbers, melons, pumpkins, cabbage,<br />

maize, celery, leeks, artichokes, broad<br />

beans, broccoli and citrus fruit go to<br />

France, Hol<strong>la</strong>nd, Switzer<strong>la</strong>nd, the United<br />

Kingdom and, most importantly,<br />

Germany, which repres<strong>en</strong>ts a full 60% of<br />

its exports, and whose <strong>de</strong>mand for<br />

organic products is unwavering. In<br />

Germany, says Héctor López of<br />

Biocampo, organic food is a serious<br />

issue, and certainly isn’t based on whims<br />

or fashions. “You eat organically, or you<br />

don’t eat at all,” he jokes.<br />

22<br />

2. TARONGES EBRE<br />

The Giné family farm in Tarragona, for<br />

g<strong>en</strong>erations an important local producer of<br />

oranges, know through experi<strong>en</strong>ce that<br />

organic farming is no bed of roses. The<br />

family switched over to the organic system<br />

in 2006 partly out of <strong>con</strong>viction and partly<br />

as a way of adding value to an un<strong>de</strong>rvalued<br />

product. The obligatory four-year period of<br />

<strong>con</strong>version to the organic system has be<strong>en</strong><br />

hard. The Ginés saw output plummet as<br />

the trees, sud<strong>de</strong>nly <strong>de</strong>prived of artificial<br />

fertilizers and herbici<strong>de</strong>s, gave as much as<br />

50% less fruit. Disheart<strong>en</strong>ed, the family<br />

was on the point of going back to<br />

<strong>con</strong>v<strong>en</strong>tional methods, but persisted, and<br />

now have 70 ha (172 acres) un<strong>de</strong>r organic<br />

(out of a total of 77 ha / 190 acres). The<br />

2010 edition of Biocultura was one of their<br />

first public appearances since going<br />

organic (this is the first year in which their<br />

citrus fruit officially bear the organic <strong>la</strong>bel)<br />

and, says Octavi Garcia, son-in-<strong>la</strong>w of<br />

owner Joaquim Giné, the reaction to their<br />

superb mandarin oranges, unwaxed and<br />

untreated with an impressive <strong>de</strong>pth of<br />

f<strong>la</strong>vor, has be<strong>en</strong> gratifying: “People like to<br />

buy directly from the producer, and that<br />

makes us feel good.”<br />

Spanish cuisine,<br />

<strong>en</strong>hanced by<br />

organic products<br />

The world of Spanish cuisine has<br />

be<strong>en</strong> quick to recognize the value of<br />

organic ingredi<strong>en</strong>ts, seeing these<br />

items as an ext<strong>en</strong>sion or refinem<strong>en</strong>t<br />

of the existing range of gourmet<br />

Spanish products. In October 2009,<br />

sev<strong>en</strong>-Michelin-star chef Santi<br />

Santamaria organized a workshop on<br />

organic products at his restaurant<br />

Can Fabes. Juan Mari Arzak, Carme<br />

Ruscalleda, Rodrigo <strong>de</strong> <strong>la</strong> Calle and<br />

Andoni Luis Aduriz are other<br />

important Spanish chefs known to<br />

be committed to the eco cause. The<br />

era of the “eco-restaurant” is still in<br />

its infancy. The SEAE estimates that<br />

there are around 20 offering<br />

exclusively organic m<strong>en</strong>us in the<br />

whole of <strong>Spain</strong>, a pioneer being<br />

the eco-vegetarian restaurant<br />

Sarasate in Pamplona; however,<br />

the range is increasing.<br />

Initiatives bringing together Spanish<br />

chefs interested in organic<br />

ingredi<strong>en</strong>ts are beginning to make

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