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<strong>The</strong> <strong>Magazine</strong>


Die Edelsteinschleiferei<br />

für Ihre speziellen Wünsche<br />

Dear readers,<br />

you are holding<br />

our rst<br />

magazine in<br />

your hands.<br />

Our aim is to provide you<br />

with new insights via our<br />

new medium. Insights into<br />

our manufacture and our<br />

technical department, but<br />

naturally also into our lives.<br />

And we want to share with<br />

you our passion for the most<br />

unusual treasures of nature,<br />

which we are privileged to<br />

work with every day.<br />

THE MAGAZINE<br />

Editorial<br />

Bernd Willi, Sandra, Nicole and Stefanie <strong>Ripp</strong><br />

(from left to right), a family with a shared passion<br />

For over 60 years <strong>Groh</strong> + <strong>Ripp</strong><br />

has stood for gem stones in<br />

perfection thanks to commitment,<br />

passion and strong<br />

family cohesion.<br />

It is not only our stones<br />

that are unusual: realising<br />

customer requests down to<br />

the smallest detail has always<br />

been a speciality of<br />

our establishment. As a consequence,<br />

we have been familiar<br />

to you for generations<br />

as the “gemstone cutters for<br />

those special requirements.”<br />

With this magazine we want<br />

to take you on a journey<br />

into the fascinating world of<br />

coloured gemstones. Be our<br />

guest and accompany us to<br />

our uncut stones, to the cutters<br />

and lapidarists and to<br />

our technical departments,<br />

in which our products are<br />

created in the most precise<br />

manner possible.<br />

With best regards<br />

GROH + RIPP 03


there is<br />

no other way<br />

in the<br />

world<br />

of making a thing<br />

or being beautiful<br />

“<br />

than to<br />

love it.<br />

Robert Musil<br />


06 <strong>Groh</strong> + ripp<br />

AStefanie <strong>Ripp</strong> on heR heaRt Stone<br />

fresh, peerless neon turquoise<br />

radiates from the<br />

necklace of Stefanie ripp, a<br />

multitude of facets glittering<br />

vibrantly. <strong>The</strong> stone appears<br />

to sparkle in a race to outshine<br />

the brilliant-cut diamonds<br />

that surround it and<br />

hold it fast.<br />

With each movement the<br />

stone is bathed in a new<br />

light, revealing ever-new<br />

sides to itself. Although the<br />

colour initially appears almost<br />

dazzling, it is nonetheless<br />

a rather discreet, highly<br />

elegant stone. it is scarcely<br />

possible to drag the gaze<br />

away, so strong is the radiance<br />

and the magic of its attraction.<br />

“i love<br />

this stone.”<br />

No other has such fire, yet<br />

radiates such serenity and<br />

elegance at the same time.<br />

“it is also something special<br />

for me, and i deal with precious<br />

stones every day,” says<br />

Stefanie ripp.<br />

<strong>The</strong> stone she wears is a<br />

paraiba tourmaline. it is one<br />

of the rarest coloured gemstones<br />

of all and it receives<br />

its unusual colour from traces<br />

of copper and manganese.<br />

it is said that it is not only<br />

the wearer that chooses the<br />

jewellery, but also the jewellery<br />

that chooses the wearer.<br />

And both therefore fit together<br />

wonderfully.


No heart of stoNe<br />

A union<br />

for life<br />

Stefanie and Bernd Willi <strong>Ripp</strong> have created<br />

an internationally-successful company<br />

from a small gemstone cutting operation.<br />

A portrait of an extraordinary couple.<br />

the ripps work with<br />

the finest treasures<br />

of nature every day<br />

08 <strong>Groh</strong> + ripp <strong>Groh</strong> + ripp 09


010 GROH + RIPP<br />

“<br />

STRENGTH MAKES<br />

NO NOISE — IT IS<br />

THERE AND ACTS.<br />

”<br />

Albert Schweitzer<br />

He is only truly happy when<br />

he is at his company,” says<br />

Stefanie <strong>Ripp</strong>, of her husband.<br />

<strong>The</strong> success of <strong>Groh</strong><br />

+ <strong>Ripp</strong> is due in large<br />

part to the passion for the<br />

products, but also to business<br />

management considerations.<br />

<strong>The</strong> profits earned<br />

were always invested in new<br />

technology and materials,<br />

which either found use with<br />

goldsmiths and jewellers<br />

or served as dials for select<br />

watch brands.<br />

Many customer requests<br />

could be satisfied from<br />

stocks, however, Bernd Willi<br />

<strong>Ripp</strong> was always in search<br />

of new, interesting minerals,<br />

gemstones, that special<br />

Bernd Willi <strong>Ripp</strong> only buys<br />

when he is convinced of the<br />

quality of a product. A simple<br />

principle, and one that<br />

has made <strong>Groh</strong> + <strong>Ripp</strong> the<br />

success story that it is today.<br />

something. He still purchases<br />

gemstones in a targeted<br />

manner to this day. In<br />

the case of unusual requests<br />

he can resort to his direct<br />

contacts with mine owners<br />

and suppliers of rough<br />

stones. “Depending on the<br />

customer request, it may<br />

take a while for us to find<br />

the matching stone, because<br />

obviously nature sets limits<br />

from time to time. However,<br />

our long-standing business<br />

contacts often provide<br />

us with privileged access<br />

to particular stones,” says<br />

Bernd Willi <strong>Ripp</strong>.<br />

Many stones are bought<br />

when they appear on the<br />

market — over the course<br />

of the years this has resulted<br />

in an incredible<br />

stock of uncut stones being<br />

amassed. This provides the<br />

freedom to offer the matching<br />

colours for every fashion<br />

trend.<br />

Stefanie <strong>Ripp</strong> is also passionate<br />

about the business,<br />

which she has grown<br />

up with from a child: her<br />

father, <strong>The</strong>o <strong>Groh</strong>, ran an<br />

agate cutting operation in<br />

Rhaunen, a village in the<br />

Hunsrück region, approximately<br />

25 kilometres to the<br />

north of Idar-Oberstein.<br />

<strong>The</strong> company supplied<br />

many of the companies in<br />

the area. At an early age she<br />

discovered her love of the<br />

treasures of nature and the<br />

art of transforming rough<br />

stones into perfect forms.<br />

She has retained her feel<br />

for gemstones acquired<br />

from those days and she<br />

looks back fondly on the<br />

beginnings of the company:<br />

when she married Bernd<br />

Willi <strong>Ripp</strong> 41 years ago and<br />

he joined the company, in<br />

1973, that was to become<br />

<strong>Groh</strong> + <strong>Ripp</strong>, the times were<br />

difficult and challenging,<br />

GROH + RIPP 011


ut also exciting and filled<br />

with wonderful moments.<br />

Bernd Willi <strong>Ripp</strong> and his<br />

wife were a good team from<br />

the word go. Together they<br />

travelled to customers, discussed<br />

orders and had numerous<br />

ideas. Stefanie <strong>Ripp</strong><br />

was always a good partner<br />

and a good team player by<br />

his side, not only looking after<br />

the day-to-day needs of<br />

the company but also taking<br />

care of two small children.<br />

To begin with<br />

they merely<br />

supplied agate<br />

to customers in<br />

the region.<br />

However, Bernd Willi <strong>Ripp</strong><br />

dreamed of refining the<br />

products and expanding the<br />

range. He soon obtained<br />

meetings with dial manufacturers<br />

and received the first<br />

job orders.<br />

Gradually the modest workshop<br />

evolved into a considerable<br />

company — and <strong>Groh</strong> +<br />

<strong>Ripp</strong> expanded. In 1986 the<br />

company relocated to Idar-<br />

Oberstein — and this is also<br />

where Stefanie <strong>Ripp</strong> had the<br />

idea for a geographical realignment<br />

of the company.<br />

“Everything in due course,”<br />

012 GROH + RIPP<br />

Stefanie <strong>Ripp</strong> became<br />

acquainted with the big,<br />

wide world at an early age.<br />

She maintains numerous<br />

friendships with trading<br />

partners on every continent,<br />

helping to ensure that<br />

customers frequently return<br />

to <strong>Groh</strong> + <strong>Ripp</strong>.<br />

she says, with a smile. “We<br />

always had lots of ideas and<br />

gradually implemented<br />

these.” Idar-Oberstein has<br />

always been a centre of excellence<br />

for gemstones and<br />

gemstone crafts — in other<br />

words, just the place in which<br />

to make new contacts and<br />

maintain existing ones.<br />

Stefanie <strong>Ripp</strong> waxes lyrical<br />

when she talks of the business<br />

trips with her husband<br />

and their daughters, which<br />

have influenced them both<br />

professionally and in private<br />

life — even if the border between<br />

work and private life<br />

has always been a fluid one<br />

for the <strong>Ripp</strong> family. “<strong>The</strong><br />

family has always come first<br />

with us — and so has the<br />

firm,” she says, with a wink.<br />

It is not difficult to see the<br />

enthusiasm that the family<br />

has for the company. Dealing<br />

with the most varied of precious<br />

gemstones on a daily<br />

basis is both a profession and<br />

a passion, many customers<br />

and trading partners have<br />

long become friends, who<br />

treasure the <strong>Ripp</strong>s not only<br />

for their expertise and the<br />

quality of their products, but<br />

also for their warmth and<br />

openness.<br />

“<br />

THE LIFE OF<br />

A PERSON IS<br />

TINGED WITH THE<br />

COLOUR OF HIS<br />

IMAGINATION.<br />

”<br />

Honoré de Balzac<br />

GROH + RIPP 013


014 GROH + RIPP<br />

THE PERFECT CUT<br />

Where the<br />

magic happens<br />

In the workshops of <strong>Groh</strong> + <strong>Ripp</strong> the precious<br />

treasures of nature are transformed into<br />

works of art. Devoted attention is required<br />

for them to reveal their full beauty.<br />

<strong>The</strong> magic of the stones<br />

can already be recognised<br />

in the fine uncut stones,<br />

such as the amethyst, mandarin<br />

garnet and rubellite here<br />

GROH + RIPP 015


Jürgen Brunk<br />

loves working<br />

with the colouredgemstones.<br />

He is<br />

a part of<br />

<strong>Groh</strong> + <strong>Ripp</strong><br />

and <strong>Groh</strong> +<br />

<strong>Ripp</strong> is a part<br />

of him.<br />

world, each of them unique.<br />

to talk about the sheer inexhaustible<br />

range of coloured<br />

gemstones, of the crystals of<br />

the stones, of pleochroism,<br />

of the origins of the stones,<br />

of their cuts and how everything<br />

tails in to one another.<br />

<strong>The</strong> cellars are divided into<br />

opaque and transparent uncut<br />

stones, with these subsequently<br />

chosen for their<br />

different uses. <strong>The</strong> opaque<br />

materials are mostly used<br />

for technical products or objects.<br />

<strong>The</strong> transparent rough<br />

stones are selected and cut<br />

for premium necklaces, pendants<br />

or rings. <strong>The</strong> variety of<br />

Entering one of these rooms,<br />

coloured stones on offer here<br />

the silver-coloured shelves<br />

is simply inexhaustible. <strong>The</strong><br />

reveal true treasures: lapis,<br />

rough crystals in the cellars<br />

various kinds of jade, obsid-<br />

and the cut coloured stones<br />

1<br />

ian, quartz, malachite and<br />

numerous other materials<br />

are to be found here. <strong>The</strong><br />

largely opaque stones peek<br />

out imploringly from the<br />

coarse jute sacks, waiting to<br />

be chosen.<br />

Everything is in its allotted<br />

place. “With this immense<br />

in the safes display the entire<br />

spectrum of colours:<br />

kunzite, fire opals, rubies,<br />

coloured sapphires, emeralds,<br />

aquamarine, tsavorite,<br />

opals, moonstone, tourmalines<br />

in every conceivable<br />

hue, tanzanite, jade, turquoise<br />

— all are found here<br />

inventory it is vital to main-<br />

in select qualities, shapes<br />

tain an overview. Only then<br />

and colours.<br />

<strong>The</strong> first step in the process<br />

is always the walk to one of<br />

the numerous uncut stone<br />

cellars of the company — a<br />

storage area that resembles<br />

a treasure chamber, bursting<br />

at the seams. Over the course<br />

of several generations stones<br />

have been gathered together<br />

here from all around the<br />

can we provide our customers<br />

with optimal service and<br />

advice in the realisation of<br />

their requests,” says Jürgen<br />

Brunk, who has worked as a<br />

gemmologist and diamond<br />

assessor at <strong>Groh</strong> + <strong>Ripp</strong> for<br />

over 15 years. He is a dyedin-the-wool<br />

“coloured gemstone<br />

person” — his eyes<br />

light up as soon as he begins<br />

“<strong>The</strong> starting point for us is<br />

always the wishes of the customer.<br />

As soon as we know<br />

what the customer wants,<br />

everything moves very<br />

quickly. We recommend a<br />

suitable stone from our uncut<br />

material. We can choose<br />

from nearly every colour in<br />

nearly every material,” says<br />

Jürgen Brunk.<br />

016 GROH + RIPP GROH + RIPP 017<br />

2<br />

3 1. Jürgen Brunk in one of the uncut stone cellars 2. Mandarin garnet,<br />

Paraiba tourmaline, yellow beryl, rubellite and tanzanite cut as cabochon<br />

3. Nicole <strong>Ripp</strong> and Jürgen Brunk examine uncut stones


In spite of the loud<br />

whine of the saws used<br />

to cut the stones and<br />

the drone of the various<br />

cutting and polishing<br />

machines, the workshop has<br />

4<br />

5<br />

6<br />

a tranquil, almost magical<br />

aura. It smells of wood, of<br />

metal and of dust from the<br />

stones, of oil, wax and spirits.<br />

Everywhere in the brightlylit<br />

workshop the precious<br />

Cutting<br />

the precious<br />

stones<br />

requires<br />

skill and<br />

composure.<br />

stones sparkle and glitter,<br />

as if trying to outshine one<br />

another. Turquoise-coloured<br />

Paraiba tourmalines, orange-coloured<br />

mandarin<br />

garnets, imperial topaz, rubellite,<br />

kunzite, fire opals and<br />

many more besides — all<br />

appear to capture the light<br />

of the workshop and reflect<br />

it back. Over 100 different<br />

types of stone are gathered<br />

here, each with their own<br />

peculiarities and characteristics.<br />

Touring the workshop it is<br />

evident that everything here<br />

is focused on the realisation<br />

of the wishes of the customer:<br />

at the grinding wheel sits<br />

budding master craftsman<br />

Mirco Galle, cutting signet<br />

rings and the matching layer<br />

stone. “Each job order is different<br />

and each individual<br />

stone has its own particular<br />

character,” says Mirco Galle,<br />

“This is why the work is so<br />

incredibly varied and each<br />

day so exciting.”<br />

For over 30 years now <strong>Groh</strong><br />

+ <strong>Ripp</strong> has offered all of the<br />

8<br />

9<br />

7<br />

4.+5.+6. A green-white layer stone is worked<br />

into the signet ring 7. Cut layer stone with engraved<br />

crest and monogram 8.+9. Prospective<br />

master craftsman Mirco Galle at work<br />

018 GROH + RIPP GROH + RIPP 019


Brightly-coloured gemstones:<br />

faceted rubellite, yellow beryl,<br />

imperial topaz, mandarin garnet,<br />

aquamarine and green tourmaline<br />

work stages required, from<br />

the layer stone to the finished<br />

signet ring. In a painstaking<br />

procedure individual<br />

monograms, family crests<br />

With the<br />

perfect cut<br />

the stone<br />

acquires<br />

an endless<br />

depth. No<br />

two glances<br />

at it are<br />

alike.<br />

and motifs of the customer’s<br />

own design are engraved<br />

into the layer stone, lapis,<br />

onyx or more unusual stone<br />

varieties such as sapphire,<br />

tourmaline or garnet, with<br />

the stones subsequently set<br />

in rings of different materials.<br />

In the workshops highly<br />

complex cutting tasks are<br />

also undertaken: the finest<br />

rubellite, aquamarine, peridots<br />

and golden beryl are<br />

cut into bangles, but also<br />

highly intricate, detailed<br />

pieces for different items of<br />

jewellery are created.<br />

020 GROH + RIPP GROH + RIPP 021


10<br />

Some complex projects<br />

shaped with the aid of CNC<br />

machines are given their final,<br />

laborious finish by hand<br />

in this department.<br />

Cutting, sawing,<br />

creation of the<br />

basic form, cementing<br />

the<br />

stone on wooden<br />

sticks and naturally<br />

grinding on the many different<br />

wheels all occurs here.<br />

Jürgen Brunk selects the<br />

rough stones and discusses<br />

them with the cutters and<br />

lapidarists. Each of the steps<br />

that follows is a work of<br />

hand craftsmanship. Time<br />

and again, the cutters and<br />

lapidarists apply the stones<br />

to the grinding wheels at the<br />

correct angle, carefully<br />

checking the interim results<br />

after each facet. Piece by<br />

piece the precious treasures<br />

of nature are transformed<br />

into jewellery of irresistible<br />

beauty.<br />

<strong>The</strong> light breaks into the<br />

various different angles of<br />

the carefully-added facets,<br />

revealing itself in a new<br />

Time and<br />

again Rolf<br />

Cullmann<br />

holds the<br />

gemstone<br />

to the wheel,<br />

until the<br />

required<br />

perfection<br />

is achieved.<br />

sparkle from each different<br />

perspective.<br />

At <strong>Groh</strong> + <strong>Ripp</strong> the stones<br />

are cut to perfection rather<br />

than to weight or size, because<br />

only when the relationship<br />

between the facets<br />

and the angles is right can<br />

the full beauty of the stone<br />

be revealed. <strong>The</strong> tour, then,<br />

takes us from the uncut<br />

stone store to the cutting<br />

area and lapidary department,<br />

with explanation<br />

of the respective stages of<br />

work that a stone must pass<br />

through from uncut stage to<br />

the perfect stone.<br />

Not all stones are capable<br />

of being faceted. Many of<br />

the precious pieces are also<br />

cut into cabochons. <strong>The</strong><br />

raw material typical has<br />

inclusions and it is not the<br />

precisely-angled facets that<br />

breathe life into the stone<br />

here — instead, it is hollow<br />

channels, small needles or<br />

a net-like natural appearance.<br />

In many minerals this<br />

cut even emphasises unusual<br />

inclusions, lending the stone<br />

a very special aesthetic appearance.<br />

Stones of a particularly high<br />

quality are cut in the lapidary<br />

department. Full concentration<br />

and an unbroken<br />

fascination for the beauty of<br />

the cut and uncut stones are<br />

characteristics of the lapidarists<br />

as they go about their<br />

unique work. Rolf Cullmann<br />

is a master of his craft —<br />

there are few lapidarists that<br />

understand their work as<br />

well as he does. He carefully<br />

guides a neon-turquoise<br />

Paraiba tourmaline to the<br />

cutting wheel and holds it to<br />

the light, turning it critically<br />

back and forth before applying<br />

it. He repeats the pro cess<br />

countless times, until he is<br />

finally satisfied. He holds<br />

the stone, now cut with endless<br />

facets, to the light one<br />

last time. And now the full,<br />

breathtakingly majestic colour<br />

of the Paraiba tourmaline<br />

is finally revealed.<br />

At <strong>Groh</strong> + <strong>Ripp</strong> they are<br />

proud of every member of<br />

staff, because their perfectionism<br />

is impressive — but<br />

they are also the prerequisite<br />

for satisfying the demands of<br />

the customers.<br />

022 GROH + RIPP GROH + RIPP 023<br />

11<br />

12<br />

13<br />

14<br />

15<br />

10. Perfection from the hand of the master: Rolf Cullmann after<br />

a fruitful session at work 11+12. Applying facets to a fine Paraiba<br />

tourmaline 13. Michael Strehblow examines the fine polishing of the<br />

facets 14. Paraiba tourmaline, fully faceted 15. In their fully-cut state<br />

the stones resemble small works of art. It is only now that their full<br />

spectrum of colour and incredible radiance comes into full effect


Nature<br />

“<br />

is<br />

usually<br />

More<br />

imaginative<br />

than<br />

„<br />

we are.<br />

Freeman Dyson


026 GROH + RIPP<br />

SURREALIST ART WITH GEMSTONES<br />

Welcome to the<br />

Stone Age<br />

Every gemstone is a work of art. <strong>The</strong> fascinating colours,<br />

the uniquely complex forms and the distinctive radiance<br />

stimulate the imagination in a manner that is unique.<br />

“<br />

THE BEST THING<br />

THAT WE CAN<br />

EXPERIENCE IS<br />

THE MYSTERIOUS.<br />

”<br />

Albert Einstein<br />

Finest faceted<br />

Paraiba tourmalines<br />

and matching<br />

pavée stones<br />

GROH + RIPP 027


“<br />

EVERYTHING<br />

HAS ITS BEAUTY,<br />

BUT NOT<br />

EVERYONE<br />

CAN SEE IT.<br />

”<br />

Confucius<br />

Left: Finest rubies, sapphires and emeralds; This page: Faceted tanzanite and aquamarine<br />

in droplet form<br />

028 GROH + RIPP GROH + RIPP 029


030 GROH + RIPP<br />

This page: Coral with Mozambique tourmalines in berry shades; Right: Mozambique aquamarines<br />

in a cocktail glass, star sapphire from Sri Lanka<br />

“<br />

LUXURY IS NOT<br />

THE OPPOSITE<br />

OF POVERTY,<br />

IT IS THE OPPOSITE<br />

OF VULGARITY.<br />

”<br />

Coco Chanel


“<br />

HE THAT ONLY<br />

QUESTIONS THE<br />

PURPOSE OF<br />

THINGS WILL<br />

NEVER DISCOVER<br />

THEIR BEAUTY.<br />

”<br />

Halldor Laxness<br />

Technical segments<br />

in finest ruby, opal,<br />

meteorite, lapis lazuli,<br />

turquoise, Burma jade,<br />

tiger's eye, onyx, rutile<br />

quartz<br />

GROH + RIPP 033


This page: Creation of watch dials in various shades of mother of pearl, synthetic sapphire<br />

glass and sapphire plates; Right: Small components (as one-off or series production) for<br />

buttons, rings and chain links in coral, lapis lazuli, tourmaline, onyx, mother of pearl, elements<br />

for watch cases and watch crowns<br />

034 GROH + RIPP<br />

“<br />

TIME STAYS LONG<br />

ENOUGH FOR<br />

ANYONE WHO<br />

WILL USE IT.<br />

”<br />

Leonardo Da Vinci


“ It Is not<br />

enough for<br />

technology<br />

to functIon well.<br />

It needs to fIt Into<br />

the world,<br />

„<br />

too.<br />

Gero von Randow


2 3 GROH<br />

1<br />

1.+2.+3. Insight into<br />

the CNC-controlled<br />

processing of gemstones<br />

WHERE HIGH-TECH MEETS CLASSIC CRAFTSMANSHIP<br />

Extending the limits<br />

of the possible<br />

<strong>The</strong> material of gemstones places very<br />

special demands on both people and machines.<br />

At <strong>Groh</strong> + <strong>Ripp</strong> every challenge is faced —<br />

with expertise, experience and modern technology.<br />

Coloured gemstones are highly<br />

versatile with regards to<br />

their uses. <strong>The</strong>y have long<br />

expanded beyond the field<br />

of jewellery, with their various<br />

characteristics making<br />

them also of interest for potential<br />

use in technology and<br />

laboratories. In addition,<br />

many of the major watch<br />

manufacturers also use<br />

dials made from gemstone<br />

Machines<br />

working on<br />

the µ scale<br />

open up new<br />

possible<br />

areas of use<br />

for gemstones.<br />

and mother of pearl, lending<br />

their watches a highly<br />

individual appearance and<br />

a unique character. <strong>Groh</strong> +<br />

<strong>Ripp</strong> supplies a wide range<br />

of objects to many different<br />

companies, including leading<br />

research establishments<br />

and a large number of watch<br />

manufacturers from all<br />

around the world. <strong>The</strong> range<br />

+ RIPP 039


extends from thin cover<br />

glasses used in microscopy<br />

to accessories for watches<br />

and movements and on to<br />

complex large-scale objects<br />

such as sculptures, plinths<br />

for statues and cases for<br />

large clocks.<br />

In the technical department<br />

objects are realised whose<br />

use is only evident at second<br />

glance: these are purely<br />

components. <strong>The</strong> dials or<br />

case rings made from materials<br />

such as turquoise, lapis<br />

lazuli, coral, opal, malachite,<br />

onyx, mother of pearl,<br />

meteorite, hawk's eye, jasper<br />

and synthetic sapphire<br />

represent just a part of the<br />

whole. <strong>The</strong>ir elegance is only<br />

truly unfolded when they<br />

are processed further. When<br />

the dial sits beneath a gently<br />

domed sapphire crystal in a<br />

metal case, when the hands,<br />

powered by a quietly ticking<br />

movement, move across<br />

the fascinating material in<br />

composed elegance, then a<br />

completely different side to<br />

the beauty of the gemstones<br />

is revealed.<br />

Achieving the<br />

high technical<br />

requirements is<br />

often difficult,<br />

because each<br />

040 GROH + RIPP<br />

material places its own demands<br />

with regard to how it<br />

is worked. <strong>The</strong> thinner the<br />

stone is cut, the more intricate<br />

the processing required<br />

and the more fragile the<br />

finished product will be. In<br />

addition, different hardness<br />

of the stones, irregularities<br />

such as cracks or natural<br />

inclusions always represent<br />

new challenges for the company.<br />

Step by step,<br />

complex<br />

plans are<br />

transformed<br />

into the<br />

most precise<br />

products at<br />

<strong>Groh</strong> + <strong>Ripp</strong>.<br />

4<br />

This is why Bernd Willi <strong>Ripp</strong><br />

and his daughter Sandra,<br />

who together manage the<br />

technology department at<br />

<strong>Groh</strong> + <strong>Ripp</strong>, are always<br />

looking to expand opportunities<br />

for processing gemstones.<br />

<strong>The</strong>y are in constant<br />

search of solutions in order<br />

to realise projects that were<br />

previously thought inconceivable.<br />

This is why a great<br />

deal has been invested in<br />

computer-assisted production,<br />

which comprises,<br />

amongst other activities, annular<br />

sawing, surface grinding<br />

and milling machines.<br />

This machinery enables the<br />

creation of highly-complex<br />

pieces with tolerances in the<br />

range of 1/100 mm, in some<br />

cases even µ. <strong>The</strong> equipment<br />

used in the final inspection<br />

is also state of the art. Every<br />

development on the market<br />

4.+5.+6. <strong>The</strong> highest standard of precision<br />

in all production processes<br />

is monitored — and where<br />

practical, the corresponding<br />

equipment is acquired.<br />

<strong>The</strong> result is an impressive<br />

machinery park in which<br />

mighty apparatus is used<br />

to create the most intricate<br />

objects, to the most precise<br />

specifications. Here, for example,<br />

we can see how a<br />

special saw is used to saw a<br />

large block of lapis into extremely<br />

thin discs. Through<br />

6<br />

5<br />

GROH + RIPP 041


042 GROH + RIPP<br />

7<br />

the inspection window of a<br />

five-axis milling machine it<br />

is possible to see a tiny attachment,<br />

cooled by a jet of<br />

water, moving repeatedly<br />

over a plate of onyx barely<br />

one centimetre in size, slowly<br />

altering the shape of the<br />

jet-black stone in the process.<br />

And yet machines are<br />

incapable of performing all<br />

of the tasks. “Without the<br />

traditional craftsmanship<br />

the technology alone would<br />

not be sufficient. Despite all<br />

of the precision and care, the<br />

work of our cutters is indispensible,”<br />

explains Bernd<br />

Willi <strong>Ripp</strong>, “Craftsmanship<br />

and state-of-the-art technology<br />

need to complement<br />

one another. Only then is it<br />

possible for both to develop<br />

further.”<br />

<strong>The</strong> fact that<br />

both are to be<br />

found to a considerable<br />

extent<br />

at <strong>Groh</strong> + <strong>Ripp</strong>,<br />

that innovativeness meets<br />

dedicated craftsmanship,<br />

Only when<br />

high-tech and<br />

hand craftsmanship<br />

intertwine is<br />

it possible for<br />

both to advance<br />

further.<br />

resulting in the ability to<br />

work almost any material required,<br />

means that the company<br />

is now in a position to<br />

fulfil nearly every customer<br />

request. Many customers of<br />

the company travel to the<br />

<strong>Ripp</strong>s from all around the<br />

world, just to convince themselves<br />

that ideas can be realised<br />

and fulfilled with the required<br />

degree of perfection.<br />

<strong>Groh</strong> + <strong>Ripp</strong> has established<br />

a reputation in the trade for<br />

mastering the extremely difficult<br />

task of transforming a<br />

technical drawing into a finished<br />

product.<br />

8<br />

9 7.+8. Master craftsman Stephan Lorenz during the inspection stage<br />

9. View of the technical CNC department<br />

GROH + RIPP 043


“ <strong>The</strong> source<br />

of all ThaT is<br />

beautiful<br />

consisTs of<br />

a cerTain unison of<br />

opposites.<br />

Thomas Aquinas<br />


046 GROH + RIPP<br />

SO DIFFERENT AND YET SO SIMILAR<br />

Sister Act<br />

Nicole and Sandra <strong>Ripp</strong> have completely different<br />

approaches to their work — and this is precisely<br />

why they complement one another so well.


048 GROH + RIPP<br />

“<br />

EVERYDAY I AM<br />

ASTONISHED<br />

ANEW BY THE<br />

ENDLESS BEAUTY<br />

OF THE STONES.<br />

”<br />

Nicole <strong>Ripp</strong><br />

<strong>The</strong>y love the beautiful things.<br />

Nicole and Sandra <strong>Ripp</strong><br />

love jewellery and fashion,<br />

colours and forms, individual<br />

designs and versatile<br />

combination options. <strong>The</strong>y<br />

love nature, landscapes, the<br />

mountains in Idar-Oberstein,<br />

the forest that they<br />

walk through with Nicole’s<br />

dogs. And this is why it is<br />

not surprising that they also<br />

love gemstones. <strong>The</strong> roots<br />

of this passion lie deep: in<br />

the agate cutting firm of<br />

their grandfather they saw<br />

how large, uncut stones<br />

were gradually transformed<br />

into genuine works of art.<br />

<strong>The</strong>y recall the children of<br />

the customers with whom<br />

they played on the meadow<br />

outside the workshop, the<br />

bubbling pans on the stove,<br />

giving off their sweet smell<br />

Nicole <strong>Ripp</strong> has never lost<br />

her eye for the beauty of<br />

gemstones. Despite her<br />

daily contact with the valuable<br />

materials of nature,<br />

she still appreciates every<br />

one of them.<br />

when grandfather cleaned<br />

the agate, and the numerous<br />

journeys around the world.<br />

<strong>The</strong>y learned at an early<br />

age where the stones came<br />

from, met the mine owners<br />

and their children — an experience<br />

that still affects the<br />

sisters to this day.<br />

After leaving school they<br />

both studied Business Management.<br />

Nicole <strong>Ripp</strong> ini-<br />

tially went to America and<br />

Switzerland and completed<br />

an apprenticeship at a bank.<br />

She planned to return there.<br />

Torn between the sober<br />

world of the banker and the<br />

glittering world of the coloured<br />

stones — she finally<br />

decided on the company, due<br />

perhaps in part to the fact<br />

that she missed the sparkle,<br />

the shine and the euphoria<br />

of the material. Her passion<br />

for the coloured stones has<br />

remained with her to this<br />

day. “My sister and I have<br />

always loved the stones.<br />

Even as small children we<br />

were fascinated to see what<br />

our father and grandfather<br />

would do with the stones.<br />

We spent our childhood at<br />

the cutting workshop and<br />

this is probably where our<br />

enthusiasm comes from,”<br />

says Nicole <strong>Ripp</strong>.<br />

As similar as the sisters are,<br />

the material has been used<br />

in very different ways.<br />

Nicole’s eyes sparkle when<br />

she talks of the riddles of<br />

nature, of buying the uncut<br />

stones, of the different fundamental<br />

substances which,<br />

with the influence of colouring<br />

trace elements, become<br />

different coloured stones,<br />

such as the chrome deposits<br />

that make an emerald<br />

out of a beryl, but a ruby<br />

out of a corundum. She enthuses<br />

over the harmony of<br />

chemical structures and how<br />

they influence the structure<br />

and colour of the different<br />

stones. “It is the entirety of<br />

the different forces of nature<br />

that influence the stones,”<br />

she says, “And this complexity<br />

ultimately forms their<br />

beauty. Nature is a precious<br />

commodity — we know how<br />

to treat it appreciatively.”<br />

GROH + RIPP 049


Her enthusiasm for the precious<br />

stones has also made<br />

Nicole <strong>Ripp</strong> a highly discerning<br />

buyer. She recognises<br />

the beauty of the stones<br />

immediately and knows exactly<br />

what she wants. And<br />

she refuses to compromise in<br />

any way: “<strong>Groh</strong> + <strong>Ripp</strong><br />

stands for perfect products.<br />

And this is why the uncut<br />

stones and the subsequent<br />

processing have the highest<br />

priority.”<br />

Sandra <strong>Ripp</strong> loves<br />

plans. She, too, is<br />

fascinated by the<br />

beauty of perfectly-cut<br />

gemstones,<br />

but her focus is upon the<br />

technical processing of those<br />

stones. As a consequence,<br />

her attention is dedicated to<br />

the technical department at<br />

<strong>Groh</strong> + <strong>Ripp</strong>. She organises<br />

the work on the CNC machines,<br />

supports her customers<br />

and, above all, is constantly<br />

in search of<br />

opportunities to expand the<br />

ways in which gemstones<br />

can be worked. Figures and<br />

050 GROH + RIPP<br />

Gemstones present high<br />

demands; they are hard,<br />

but fragile and the various<br />

inclusions mean that the<br />

material differs from stone<br />

to stone. For Sandra <strong>Ripp</strong><br />

these are not obstacles,<br />

but challenges.<br />

plans have always interested<br />

her more than the jewellery<br />

itself. As a consequence, she<br />

approaches her work in a<br />

completely different way to<br />

her sister. Whilst Nicole <strong>Ripp</strong><br />

sees an uncut stone and recognises<br />

how it can become a<br />

jewel, Sandra <strong>Ripp</strong> firstly<br />

looks at the plans of the customers<br />

and the respective<br />

models. <strong>The</strong>n she considers<br />

how those plans can be implemented,<br />

what material<br />

specifications can be determined<br />

and what work stages<br />

are required. Each job order<br />

and every repair represents a<br />

new challenge to her. This<br />

makes every working day an<br />

exciting one.<br />

<strong>The</strong> two sisters pursue two<br />

completely different approaches<br />

to their work. <strong>The</strong>y<br />

frequently use the same<br />

starting materials and give<br />

them a new face in the form<br />

of different projects.<br />

As different as Nicole and<br />

Sandra <strong>Ripp</strong> may be, they<br />

complement each other very<br />

well. With their completely<br />

different approaches, their<br />

completely different eye for<br />

the uncut stone they cover<br />

both sides of the work with<br />

the gemstones. Bernd Willi<br />

<strong>Ripp</strong> is extremely proud<br />

when the subject turns to his<br />

daughters. “Even though<br />

every opportunity was open<br />

to them, it was really always<br />

clear that they would go on<br />

to manage the company,” he<br />

says, with a smile, “<strong>The</strong><br />

course has been set for the<br />

future.”<br />

“<br />

I LOVE THINKING<br />

ABOUT HOW<br />

A PLAN CAN BE<br />

TRANSFORMED<br />

INTO A FINISHED<br />

OBJECT.<br />

”<br />

Sandra <strong>Ripp</strong><br />

GROH + RIPP 051


Nicole <strong>Ripp</strong> oN heR heaRt stoNe<br />

i<br />

t is only on the second or<br />

third glance that it becomes<br />

evident what kind of stone<br />

Nicole ripp is wearing on<br />

her finger. it is a peach-coloured<br />

tourmaline from Mozambique,<br />

with a touch of<br />

cinnamon visible, depending<br />

on the way it is rotated.<br />

Like the stone of her mother,<br />

this tourmaline is also something<br />

special. particularly<br />

due to the fact that Nicole<br />

ripp selected the stone herself<br />

from a large number<br />

of uncut stones. “it was a<br />

nondescript brown colour,<br />

not at all attractive at first<br />

glance.” But Nicole ripp<br />

could already tell what the<br />

stone was capable of becom-<br />

ing. “i had it assessed by our<br />

master lapidarist,” she says.<br />

“We discovered that the oval<br />

shape was best suited to the<br />

stone.”<br />

Facets upon facets glint in<br />

the light, lending the stone<br />

an incredible depth. <strong>The</strong><br />

tourmaline is surrounded<br />

by two interwoven oval ring<br />

shanks, set with cinnamoncoloured<br />

brilliant-cut diamonds.<br />

<strong>The</strong>se provide the<br />

stone with a particularly<br />

luxurious frame.<br />

“This is<br />

now one of<br />

my favourite<br />

pieces.”<br />

<strong>Groh</strong> + ripp 053


4<br />

1 2 3<br />

5<br />

6<br />

7<br />

8<br />

1. Art Director Katja Herz and Nicole <strong>Ripp</strong> take a break in the safe room 2. Photographer<br />

Markus Abele loves his camera 3. Stylist Nina Lemm on the set 4. Sandra and Nicole <strong>Ripp</strong> during<br />

the shoot 5. Editor Christoph Hoffmann with a large tourmaline 6. Jürgen Brunk decorates<br />

a coral 7. Stefanie <strong>Ripp</strong> during the shoot 8. Layout wall meeting at Untitled in Hamburg with<br />

Nicole <strong>Ripp</strong>, Christoph Hoffmann, Katja Herz and Christian Jürgens (left to right.)<br />

Sometimes you<br />

meet people<br />

and just click<br />

with them.<br />

Four years<br />

ago, when i<br />

paid my first<br />

visit as publisher of the GZ<br />

to the prestigious company<br />

Making-of<br />

<strong>Groh</strong> + ripp in idar-oberstein,<br />

i came armed with a<br />

healthy dose of respect. But<br />

at the end of an extremely<br />

pleasant meeting Nicole<br />

ripp said to me: “We're<br />

going to co-operate well together,<br />

for a long time.” And<br />

so it turned out, because not<br />

only does the ripp family<br />

keep to its word at all times,<br />

actions also speak for themselves.<br />

<strong>The</strong>y are reliable people,<br />

the ripps, hardworking<br />

and determined, whilst<br />

at the same time creative,<br />

passionate and, above all,<br />

incredibly magnanimous.<br />

Genuine merchants, in the<br />

best sense of the word. i<br />

think that the pictures on<br />

this page illustrate very<br />

clearly: creating the <strong>Groh</strong> +<br />

ripp magazine was a lot of<br />

fun. A document of a great<br />

partnership.<br />

Christian Jürgens<br />

Published by<br />

groh + <strong>Ripp</strong><br />

Proprietor Stefanie <strong>Ripp</strong> e.K.<br />

Tiefensteiner Straße 322a<br />

55743 idar-Oberstein<br />

Phone: +49 (0) 6781 / 93 500<br />

Fax: +49 (0) 6781 / 93 50 50<br />

E-mail: info@groh-ripp.de<br />

www.groh-ripp.de<br />

Responsible<br />

Nicole <strong>Ripp</strong><br />

THE MAgAziNE<br />

imprint<br />

Realisation<br />

Untitled Verlag und Agentur<br />

gmbH & Co. Kg<br />

Medienpark Kampnagel<br />

Jarrestraße 2<br />

22303 Hamburg<br />

Phone: +49 (0) 40 / 189 881 0<br />

www.untitled-verlag.de<br />

Managing Director<br />

Dr. Christian Jürgens<br />

Art Direction<br />

Katja Herz<br />

Editor<br />

Christoph Hoffmann<br />

Photographers<br />

Markus Abele, Bernd Westphal,<br />

Dirk Weyer<br />

Staff<br />

Martina Drignat, Thorsten Fuerst,<br />

Nina Lemm<br />

Translation<br />

AD REM Sprachdienstleistungen<br />

Printing<br />

D+L Printpartner gmbH<br />

Schlavenhorst 10<br />

46395 Bocholt<br />

germany<br />

054 <strong>Groh</strong> + ripp <strong>Groh</strong> + ripp 055


Tiefensteiner Straße 322a<br />

55743 Idar-Oberstein<br />

Phone: +49 (0) 6781 / 93 500<br />

Fax: +49 (0) 6781 / 93 50 50<br />

www.groh-ripp.de

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