Groh Ripp - The Magazine
Groh Ripp - The Magazine
Groh Ripp - The Magazine
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<strong>The</strong> <strong>Magazine</strong>
Die Edelsteinschleiferei<br />
für Ihre speziellen Wünsche<br />
Dear readers,<br />
you are holding<br />
our rst<br />
magazine in<br />
your hands.<br />
Our aim is to provide you<br />
with new insights via our<br />
new medium. Insights into<br />
our manufacture and our<br />
technical department, but<br />
naturally also into our lives.<br />
And we want to share with<br />
you our passion for the most<br />
unusual treasures of nature,<br />
which we are privileged to<br />
work with every day.<br />
THE MAGAZINE<br />
Editorial<br />
Bernd Willi, Sandra, Nicole and Stefanie <strong>Ripp</strong><br />
(from left to right), a family with a shared passion<br />
For over 60 years <strong>Groh</strong> + <strong>Ripp</strong><br />
has stood for gem stones in<br />
perfection thanks to commitment,<br />
passion and strong<br />
family cohesion.<br />
It is not only our stones<br />
that are unusual: realising<br />
customer requests down to<br />
the smallest detail has always<br />
been a speciality of<br />
our establishment. As a consequence,<br />
we have been familiar<br />
to you for generations<br />
as the “gemstone cutters for<br />
those special requirements.”<br />
With this magazine we want<br />
to take you on a journey<br />
into the fascinating world of<br />
coloured gemstones. Be our<br />
guest and accompany us to<br />
our uncut stones, to the cutters<br />
and lapidarists and to<br />
our technical departments,<br />
in which our products are<br />
created in the most precise<br />
manner possible.<br />
With best regards<br />
GROH + RIPP 03
there is<br />
no other way<br />
in the<br />
world<br />
of making a thing<br />
or being beautiful<br />
“<br />
than to<br />
love it.<br />
Robert Musil<br />
„
06 <strong>Groh</strong> + ripp<br />
AStefanie <strong>Ripp</strong> on heR heaRt Stone<br />
fresh, peerless neon turquoise<br />
radiates from the<br />
necklace of Stefanie ripp, a<br />
multitude of facets glittering<br />
vibrantly. <strong>The</strong> stone appears<br />
to sparkle in a race to outshine<br />
the brilliant-cut diamonds<br />
that surround it and<br />
hold it fast.<br />
With each movement the<br />
stone is bathed in a new<br />
light, revealing ever-new<br />
sides to itself. Although the<br />
colour initially appears almost<br />
dazzling, it is nonetheless<br />
a rather discreet, highly<br />
elegant stone. it is scarcely<br />
possible to drag the gaze<br />
away, so strong is the radiance<br />
and the magic of its attraction.<br />
“i love<br />
this stone.”<br />
No other has such fire, yet<br />
radiates such serenity and<br />
elegance at the same time.<br />
“it is also something special<br />
for me, and i deal with precious<br />
stones every day,” says<br />
Stefanie ripp.<br />
<strong>The</strong> stone she wears is a<br />
paraiba tourmaline. it is one<br />
of the rarest coloured gemstones<br />
of all and it receives<br />
its unusual colour from traces<br />
of copper and manganese.<br />
it is said that it is not only<br />
the wearer that chooses the<br />
jewellery, but also the jewellery<br />
that chooses the wearer.<br />
And both therefore fit together<br />
wonderfully.
No heart of stoNe<br />
A union<br />
for life<br />
Stefanie and Bernd Willi <strong>Ripp</strong> have created<br />
an internationally-successful company<br />
from a small gemstone cutting operation.<br />
A portrait of an extraordinary couple.<br />
the ripps work with<br />
the finest treasures<br />
of nature every day<br />
08 <strong>Groh</strong> + ripp <strong>Groh</strong> + ripp 09
010 GROH + RIPP<br />
“<br />
STRENGTH MAKES<br />
NO NOISE — IT IS<br />
THERE AND ACTS.<br />
”<br />
Albert Schweitzer<br />
He is only truly happy when<br />
he is at his company,” says<br />
Stefanie <strong>Ripp</strong>, of her husband.<br />
<strong>The</strong> success of <strong>Groh</strong><br />
+ <strong>Ripp</strong> is due in large<br />
part to the passion for the<br />
products, but also to business<br />
management considerations.<br />
<strong>The</strong> profits earned<br />
were always invested in new<br />
technology and materials,<br />
which either found use with<br />
goldsmiths and jewellers<br />
or served as dials for select<br />
watch brands.<br />
Many customer requests<br />
could be satisfied from<br />
stocks, however, Bernd Willi<br />
<strong>Ripp</strong> was always in search<br />
of new, interesting minerals,<br />
gemstones, that special<br />
Bernd Willi <strong>Ripp</strong> only buys<br />
when he is convinced of the<br />
quality of a product. A simple<br />
principle, and one that<br />
has made <strong>Groh</strong> + <strong>Ripp</strong> the<br />
success story that it is today.<br />
something. He still purchases<br />
gemstones in a targeted<br />
manner to this day. In<br />
the case of unusual requests<br />
he can resort to his direct<br />
contacts with mine owners<br />
and suppliers of rough<br />
stones. “Depending on the<br />
customer request, it may<br />
take a while for us to find<br />
the matching stone, because<br />
obviously nature sets limits<br />
from time to time. However,<br />
our long-standing business<br />
contacts often provide<br />
us with privileged access<br />
to particular stones,” says<br />
Bernd Willi <strong>Ripp</strong>.<br />
Many stones are bought<br />
when they appear on the<br />
market — over the course<br />
of the years this has resulted<br />
in an incredible<br />
stock of uncut stones being<br />
amassed. This provides the<br />
freedom to offer the matching<br />
colours for every fashion<br />
trend.<br />
Stefanie <strong>Ripp</strong> is also passionate<br />
about the business,<br />
which she has grown<br />
up with from a child: her<br />
father, <strong>The</strong>o <strong>Groh</strong>, ran an<br />
agate cutting operation in<br />
Rhaunen, a village in the<br />
Hunsrück region, approximately<br />
25 kilometres to the<br />
north of Idar-Oberstein.<br />
<strong>The</strong> company supplied<br />
many of the companies in<br />
the area. At an early age she<br />
discovered her love of the<br />
treasures of nature and the<br />
art of transforming rough<br />
stones into perfect forms.<br />
She has retained her feel<br />
for gemstones acquired<br />
from those days and she<br />
looks back fondly on the<br />
beginnings of the company:<br />
when she married Bernd<br />
Willi <strong>Ripp</strong> 41 years ago and<br />
he joined the company, in<br />
1973, that was to become<br />
<strong>Groh</strong> + <strong>Ripp</strong>, the times were<br />
difficult and challenging,<br />
GROH + RIPP 011
ut also exciting and filled<br />
with wonderful moments.<br />
Bernd Willi <strong>Ripp</strong> and his<br />
wife were a good team from<br />
the word go. Together they<br />
travelled to customers, discussed<br />
orders and had numerous<br />
ideas. Stefanie <strong>Ripp</strong><br />
was always a good partner<br />
and a good team player by<br />
his side, not only looking after<br />
the day-to-day needs of<br />
the company but also taking<br />
care of two small children.<br />
To begin with<br />
they merely<br />
supplied agate<br />
to customers in<br />
the region.<br />
However, Bernd Willi <strong>Ripp</strong><br />
dreamed of refining the<br />
products and expanding the<br />
range. He soon obtained<br />
meetings with dial manufacturers<br />
and received the first<br />
job orders.<br />
Gradually the modest workshop<br />
evolved into a considerable<br />
company — and <strong>Groh</strong> +<br />
<strong>Ripp</strong> expanded. In 1986 the<br />
company relocated to Idar-<br />
Oberstein — and this is also<br />
where Stefanie <strong>Ripp</strong> had the<br />
idea for a geographical realignment<br />
of the company.<br />
“Everything in due course,”<br />
012 GROH + RIPP<br />
Stefanie <strong>Ripp</strong> became<br />
acquainted with the big,<br />
wide world at an early age.<br />
She maintains numerous<br />
friendships with trading<br />
partners on every continent,<br />
helping to ensure that<br />
customers frequently return<br />
to <strong>Groh</strong> + <strong>Ripp</strong>.<br />
she says, with a smile. “We<br />
always had lots of ideas and<br />
gradually implemented<br />
these.” Idar-Oberstein has<br />
always been a centre of excellence<br />
for gemstones and<br />
gemstone crafts — in other<br />
words, just the place in which<br />
to make new contacts and<br />
maintain existing ones.<br />
Stefanie <strong>Ripp</strong> waxes lyrical<br />
when she talks of the business<br />
trips with her husband<br />
and their daughters, which<br />
have influenced them both<br />
professionally and in private<br />
life — even if the border between<br />
work and private life<br />
has always been a fluid one<br />
for the <strong>Ripp</strong> family. “<strong>The</strong><br />
family has always come first<br />
with us — and so has the<br />
firm,” she says, with a wink.<br />
It is not difficult to see the<br />
enthusiasm that the family<br />
has for the company. Dealing<br />
with the most varied of precious<br />
gemstones on a daily<br />
basis is both a profession and<br />
a passion, many customers<br />
and trading partners have<br />
long become friends, who<br />
treasure the <strong>Ripp</strong>s not only<br />
for their expertise and the<br />
quality of their products, but<br />
also for their warmth and<br />
openness.<br />
“<br />
THE LIFE OF<br />
A PERSON IS<br />
TINGED WITH THE<br />
COLOUR OF HIS<br />
IMAGINATION.<br />
”<br />
Honoré de Balzac<br />
GROH + RIPP 013
014 GROH + RIPP<br />
THE PERFECT CUT<br />
Where the<br />
magic happens<br />
In the workshops of <strong>Groh</strong> + <strong>Ripp</strong> the precious<br />
treasures of nature are transformed into<br />
works of art. Devoted attention is required<br />
for them to reveal their full beauty.<br />
<strong>The</strong> magic of the stones<br />
can already be recognised<br />
in the fine uncut stones,<br />
such as the amethyst, mandarin<br />
garnet and rubellite here<br />
GROH + RIPP 015
Jürgen Brunk<br />
loves working<br />
with the colouredgemstones.<br />
He is<br />
a part of<br />
<strong>Groh</strong> + <strong>Ripp</strong><br />
and <strong>Groh</strong> +<br />
<strong>Ripp</strong> is a part<br />
of him.<br />
world, each of them unique.<br />
to talk about the sheer inexhaustible<br />
range of coloured<br />
gemstones, of the crystals of<br />
the stones, of pleochroism,<br />
of the origins of the stones,<br />
of their cuts and how everything<br />
tails in to one another.<br />
<strong>The</strong> cellars are divided into<br />
opaque and transparent uncut<br />
stones, with these subsequently<br />
chosen for their<br />
different uses. <strong>The</strong> opaque<br />
materials are mostly used<br />
for technical products or objects.<br />
<strong>The</strong> transparent rough<br />
stones are selected and cut<br />
for premium necklaces, pendants<br />
or rings. <strong>The</strong> variety of<br />
Entering one of these rooms,<br />
coloured stones on offer here<br />
the silver-coloured shelves<br />
is simply inexhaustible. <strong>The</strong><br />
reveal true treasures: lapis,<br />
rough crystals in the cellars<br />
various kinds of jade, obsid-<br />
and the cut coloured stones<br />
1<br />
ian, quartz, malachite and<br />
numerous other materials<br />
are to be found here. <strong>The</strong><br />
largely opaque stones peek<br />
out imploringly from the<br />
coarse jute sacks, waiting to<br />
be chosen.<br />
Everything is in its allotted<br />
place. “With this immense<br />
in the safes display the entire<br />
spectrum of colours:<br />
kunzite, fire opals, rubies,<br />
coloured sapphires, emeralds,<br />
aquamarine, tsavorite,<br />
opals, moonstone, tourmalines<br />
in every conceivable<br />
hue, tanzanite, jade, turquoise<br />
— all are found here<br />
inventory it is vital to main-<br />
in select qualities, shapes<br />
tain an overview. Only then<br />
and colours.<br />
<strong>The</strong> first step in the process<br />
is always the walk to one of<br />
the numerous uncut stone<br />
cellars of the company — a<br />
storage area that resembles<br />
a treasure chamber, bursting<br />
at the seams. Over the course<br />
of several generations stones<br />
have been gathered together<br />
here from all around the<br />
can we provide our customers<br />
with optimal service and<br />
advice in the realisation of<br />
their requests,” says Jürgen<br />
Brunk, who has worked as a<br />
gemmologist and diamond<br />
assessor at <strong>Groh</strong> + <strong>Ripp</strong> for<br />
over 15 years. He is a dyedin-the-wool<br />
“coloured gemstone<br />
person” — his eyes<br />
light up as soon as he begins<br />
“<strong>The</strong> starting point for us is<br />
always the wishes of the customer.<br />
As soon as we know<br />
what the customer wants,<br />
everything moves very<br />
quickly. We recommend a<br />
suitable stone from our uncut<br />
material. We can choose<br />
from nearly every colour in<br />
nearly every material,” says<br />
Jürgen Brunk.<br />
016 GROH + RIPP GROH + RIPP 017<br />
2<br />
3 1. Jürgen Brunk in one of the uncut stone cellars 2. Mandarin garnet,<br />
Paraiba tourmaline, yellow beryl, rubellite and tanzanite cut as cabochon<br />
3. Nicole <strong>Ripp</strong> and Jürgen Brunk examine uncut stones
In spite of the loud<br />
whine of the saws used<br />
to cut the stones and<br />
the drone of the various<br />
cutting and polishing<br />
machines, the workshop has<br />
4<br />
5<br />
6<br />
a tranquil, almost magical<br />
aura. It smells of wood, of<br />
metal and of dust from the<br />
stones, of oil, wax and spirits.<br />
Everywhere in the brightlylit<br />
workshop the precious<br />
Cutting<br />
the precious<br />
stones<br />
requires<br />
skill and<br />
composure.<br />
stones sparkle and glitter,<br />
as if trying to outshine one<br />
another. Turquoise-coloured<br />
Paraiba tourmalines, orange-coloured<br />
mandarin<br />
garnets, imperial topaz, rubellite,<br />
kunzite, fire opals and<br />
many more besides — all<br />
appear to capture the light<br />
of the workshop and reflect<br />
it back. Over 100 different<br />
types of stone are gathered<br />
here, each with their own<br />
peculiarities and characteristics.<br />
Touring the workshop it is<br />
evident that everything here<br />
is focused on the realisation<br />
of the wishes of the customer:<br />
at the grinding wheel sits<br />
budding master craftsman<br />
Mirco Galle, cutting signet<br />
rings and the matching layer<br />
stone. “Each job order is different<br />
and each individual<br />
stone has its own particular<br />
character,” says Mirco Galle,<br />
“This is why the work is so<br />
incredibly varied and each<br />
day so exciting.”<br />
For over 30 years now <strong>Groh</strong><br />
+ <strong>Ripp</strong> has offered all of the<br />
8<br />
9<br />
7<br />
4.+5.+6. A green-white layer stone is worked<br />
into the signet ring 7. Cut layer stone with engraved<br />
crest and monogram 8.+9. Prospective<br />
master craftsman Mirco Galle at work<br />
018 GROH + RIPP GROH + RIPP 019
Brightly-coloured gemstones:<br />
faceted rubellite, yellow beryl,<br />
imperial topaz, mandarin garnet,<br />
aquamarine and green tourmaline<br />
work stages required, from<br />
the layer stone to the finished<br />
signet ring. In a painstaking<br />
procedure individual<br />
monograms, family crests<br />
With the<br />
perfect cut<br />
the stone<br />
acquires<br />
an endless<br />
depth. No<br />
two glances<br />
at it are<br />
alike.<br />
and motifs of the customer’s<br />
own design are engraved<br />
into the layer stone, lapis,<br />
onyx or more unusual stone<br />
varieties such as sapphire,<br />
tourmaline or garnet, with<br />
the stones subsequently set<br />
in rings of different materials.<br />
In the workshops highly<br />
complex cutting tasks are<br />
also undertaken: the finest<br />
rubellite, aquamarine, peridots<br />
and golden beryl are<br />
cut into bangles, but also<br />
highly intricate, detailed<br />
pieces for different items of<br />
jewellery are created.<br />
020 GROH + RIPP GROH + RIPP 021
10<br />
Some complex projects<br />
shaped with the aid of CNC<br />
machines are given their final,<br />
laborious finish by hand<br />
in this department.<br />
Cutting, sawing,<br />
creation of the<br />
basic form, cementing<br />
the<br />
stone on wooden<br />
sticks and naturally<br />
grinding on the many different<br />
wheels all occurs here.<br />
Jürgen Brunk selects the<br />
rough stones and discusses<br />
them with the cutters and<br />
lapidarists. Each of the steps<br />
that follows is a work of<br />
hand craftsmanship. Time<br />
and again, the cutters and<br />
lapidarists apply the stones<br />
to the grinding wheels at the<br />
correct angle, carefully<br />
checking the interim results<br />
after each facet. Piece by<br />
piece the precious treasures<br />
of nature are transformed<br />
into jewellery of irresistible<br />
beauty.<br />
<strong>The</strong> light breaks into the<br />
various different angles of<br />
the carefully-added facets,<br />
revealing itself in a new<br />
Time and<br />
again Rolf<br />
Cullmann<br />
holds the<br />
gemstone<br />
to the wheel,<br />
until the<br />
required<br />
perfection<br />
is achieved.<br />
sparkle from each different<br />
perspective.<br />
At <strong>Groh</strong> + <strong>Ripp</strong> the stones<br />
are cut to perfection rather<br />
than to weight or size, because<br />
only when the relationship<br />
between the facets<br />
and the angles is right can<br />
the full beauty of the stone<br />
be revealed. <strong>The</strong> tour, then,<br />
takes us from the uncut<br />
stone store to the cutting<br />
area and lapidary department,<br />
with explanation<br />
of the respective stages of<br />
work that a stone must pass<br />
through from uncut stage to<br />
the perfect stone.<br />
Not all stones are capable<br />
of being faceted. Many of<br />
the precious pieces are also<br />
cut into cabochons. <strong>The</strong><br />
raw material typical has<br />
inclusions and it is not the<br />
precisely-angled facets that<br />
breathe life into the stone<br />
here — instead, it is hollow<br />
channels, small needles or<br />
a net-like natural appearance.<br />
In many minerals this<br />
cut even emphasises unusual<br />
inclusions, lending the stone<br />
a very special aesthetic appearance.<br />
Stones of a particularly high<br />
quality are cut in the lapidary<br />
department. Full concentration<br />
and an unbroken<br />
fascination for the beauty of<br />
the cut and uncut stones are<br />
characteristics of the lapidarists<br />
as they go about their<br />
unique work. Rolf Cullmann<br />
is a master of his craft —<br />
there are few lapidarists that<br />
understand their work as<br />
well as he does. He carefully<br />
guides a neon-turquoise<br />
Paraiba tourmaline to the<br />
cutting wheel and holds it to<br />
the light, turning it critically<br />
back and forth before applying<br />
it. He repeats the pro cess<br />
countless times, until he is<br />
finally satisfied. He holds<br />
the stone, now cut with endless<br />
facets, to the light one<br />
last time. And now the full,<br />
breathtakingly majestic colour<br />
of the Paraiba tourmaline<br />
is finally revealed.<br />
At <strong>Groh</strong> + <strong>Ripp</strong> they are<br />
proud of every member of<br />
staff, because their perfectionism<br />
is impressive — but<br />
they are also the prerequisite<br />
for satisfying the demands of<br />
the customers.<br />
022 GROH + RIPP GROH + RIPP 023<br />
11<br />
12<br />
13<br />
14<br />
15<br />
10. Perfection from the hand of the master: Rolf Cullmann after<br />
a fruitful session at work 11+12. Applying facets to a fine Paraiba<br />
tourmaline 13. Michael Strehblow examines the fine polishing of the<br />
facets 14. Paraiba tourmaline, fully faceted 15. In their fully-cut state<br />
the stones resemble small works of art. It is only now that their full<br />
spectrum of colour and incredible radiance comes into full effect
Nature<br />
“<br />
is<br />
usually<br />
More<br />
imaginative<br />
than<br />
„<br />
we are.<br />
Freeman Dyson
026 GROH + RIPP<br />
SURREALIST ART WITH GEMSTONES<br />
Welcome to the<br />
Stone Age<br />
Every gemstone is a work of art. <strong>The</strong> fascinating colours,<br />
the uniquely complex forms and the distinctive radiance<br />
stimulate the imagination in a manner that is unique.<br />
“<br />
THE BEST THING<br />
THAT WE CAN<br />
EXPERIENCE IS<br />
THE MYSTERIOUS.<br />
”<br />
Albert Einstein<br />
Finest faceted<br />
Paraiba tourmalines<br />
and matching<br />
pavée stones<br />
GROH + RIPP 027
“<br />
EVERYTHING<br />
HAS ITS BEAUTY,<br />
BUT NOT<br />
EVERYONE<br />
CAN SEE IT.<br />
”<br />
Confucius<br />
Left: Finest rubies, sapphires and emeralds; This page: Faceted tanzanite and aquamarine<br />
in droplet form<br />
028 GROH + RIPP GROH + RIPP 029
030 GROH + RIPP<br />
This page: Coral with Mozambique tourmalines in berry shades; Right: Mozambique aquamarines<br />
in a cocktail glass, star sapphire from Sri Lanka<br />
“<br />
LUXURY IS NOT<br />
THE OPPOSITE<br />
OF POVERTY,<br />
IT IS THE OPPOSITE<br />
OF VULGARITY.<br />
”<br />
Coco Chanel
“<br />
HE THAT ONLY<br />
QUESTIONS THE<br />
PURPOSE OF<br />
THINGS WILL<br />
NEVER DISCOVER<br />
THEIR BEAUTY.<br />
”<br />
Halldor Laxness<br />
Technical segments<br />
in finest ruby, opal,<br />
meteorite, lapis lazuli,<br />
turquoise, Burma jade,<br />
tiger's eye, onyx, rutile<br />
quartz<br />
GROH + RIPP 033
This page: Creation of watch dials in various shades of mother of pearl, synthetic sapphire<br />
glass and sapphire plates; Right: Small components (as one-off or series production) for<br />
buttons, rings and chain links in coral, lapis lazuli, tourmaline, onyx, mother of pearl, elements<br />
for watch cases and watch crowns<br />
034 GROH + RIPP<br />
“<br />
TIME STAYS LONG<br />
ENOUGH FOR<br />
ANYONE WHO<br />
WILL USE IT.<br />
”<br />
Leonardo Da Vinci
“ It Is not<br />
enough for<br />
technology<br />
to functIon well.<br />
It needs to fIt Into<br />
the world,<br />
„<br />
too.<br />
Gero von Randow
2 3 GROH<br />
1<br />
1.+2.+3. Insight into<br />
the CNC-controlled<br />
processing of gemstones<br />
WHERE HIGH-TECH MEETS CLASSIC CRAFTSMANSHIP<br />
Extending the limits<br />
of the possible<br />
<strong>The</strong> material of gemstones places very<br />
special demands on both people and machines.<br />
At <strong>Groh</strong> + <strong>Ripp</strong> every challenge is faced —<br />
with expertise, experience and modern technology.<br />
Coloured gemstones are highly<br />
versatile with regards to<br />
their uses. <strong>The</strong>y have long<br />
expanded beyond the field<br />
of jewellery, with their various<br />
characteristics making<br />
them also of interest for potential<br />
use in technology and<br />
laboratories. In addition,<br />
many of the major watch<br />
manufacturers also use<br />
dials made from gemstone<br />
Machines<br />
working on<br />
the µ scale<br />
open up new<br />
possible<br />
areas of use<br />
for gemstones.<br />
and mother of pearl, lending<br />
their watches a highly<br />
individual appearance and<br />
a unique character. <strong>Groh</strong> +<br />
<strong>Ripp</strong> supplies a wide range<br />
of objects to many different<br />
companies, including leading<br />
research establishments<br />
and a large number of watch<br />
manufacturers from all<br />
around the world. <strong>The</strong> range<br />
+ RIPP 039
extends from thin cover<br />
glasses used in microscopy<br />
to accessories for watches<br />
and movements and on to<br />
complex large-scale objects<br />
such as sculptures, plinths<br />
for statues and cases for<br />
large clocks.<br />
In the technical department<br />
objects are realised whose<br />
use is only evident at second<br />
glance: these are purely<br />
components. <strong>The</strong> dials or<br />
case rings made from materials<br />
such as turquoise, lapis<br />
lazuli, coral, opal, malachite,<br />
onyx, mother of pearl,<br />
meteorite, hawk's eye, jasper<br />
and synthetic sapphire<br />
represent just a part of the<br />
whole. <strong>The</strong>ir elegance is only<br />
truly unfolded when they<br />
are processed further. When<br />
the dial sits beneath a gently<br />
domed sapphire crystal in a<br />
metal case, when the hands,<br />
powered by a quietly ticking<br />
movement, move across<br />
the fascinating material in<br />
composed elegance, then a<br />
completely different side to<br />
the beauty of the gemstones<br />
is revealed.<br />
Achieving the<br />
high technical<br />
requirements is<br />
often difficult,<br />
because each<br />
040 GROH + RIPP<br />
material places its own demands<br />
with regard to how it<br />
is worked. <strong>The</strong> thinner the<br />
stone is cut, the more intricate<br />
the processing required<br />
and the more fragile the<br />
finished product will be. In<br />
addition, different hardness<br />
of the stones, irregularities<br />
such as cracks or natural<br />
inclusions always represent<br />
new challenges for the company.<br />
Step by step,<br />
complex<br />
plans are<br />
transformed<br />
into the<br />
most precise<br />
products at<br />
<strong>Groh</strong> + <strong>Ripp</strong>.<br />
4<br />
This is why Bernd Willi <strong>Ripp</strong><br />
and his daughter Sandra,<br />
who together manage the<br />
technology department at<br />
<strong>Groh</strong> + <strong>Ripp</strong>, are always<br />
looking to expand opportunities<br />
for processing gemstones.<br />
<strong>The</strong>y are in constant<br />
search of solutions in order<br />
to realise projects that were<br />
previously thought inconceivable.<br />
This is why a great<br />
deal has been invested in<br />
computer-assisted production,<br />
which comprises,<br />
amongst other activities, annular<br />
sawing, surface grinding<br />
and milling machines.<br />
This machinery enables the<br />
creation of highly-complex<br />
pieces with tolerances in the<br />
range of 1/100 mm, in some<br />
cases even µ. <strong>The</strong> equipment<br />
used in the final inspection<br />
is also state of the art. Every<br />
development on the market<br />
4.+5.+6. <strong>The</strong> highest standard of precision<br />
in all production processes<br />
is monitored — and where<br />
practical, the corresponding<br />
equipment is acquired.<br />
<strong>The</strong> result is an impressive<br />
machinery park in which<br />
mighty apparatus is used<br />
to create the most intricate<br />
objects, to the most precise<br />
specifications. Here, for example,<br />
we can see how a<br />
special saw is used to saw a<br />
large block of lapis into extremely<br />
thin discs. Through<br />
6<br />
5<br />
GROH + RIPP 041
042 GROH + RIPP<br />
7<br />
the inspection window of a<br />
five-axis milling machine it<br />
is possible to see a tiny attachment,<br />
cooled by a jet of<br />
water, moving repeatedly<br />
over a plate of onyx barely<br />
one centimetre in size, slowly<br />
altering the shape of the<br />
jet-black stone in the process.<br />
And yet machines are<br />
incapable of performing all<br />
of the tasks. “Without the<br />
traditional craftsmanship<br />
the technology alone would<br />
not be sufficient. Despite all<br />
of the precision and care, the<br />
work of our cutters is indispensible,”<br />
explains Bernd<br />
Willi <strong>Ripp</strong>, “Craftsmanship<br />
and state-of-the-art technology<br />
need to complement<br />
one another. Only then is it<br />
possible for both to develop<br />
further.”<br />
<strong>The</strong> fact that<br />
both are to be<br />
found to a considerable<br />
extent<br />
at <strong>Groh</strong> + <strong>Ripp</strong>,<br />
that innovativeness meets<br />
dedicated craftsmanship,<br />
Only when<br />
high-tech and<br />
hand craftsmanship<br />
intertwine is<br />
it possible for<br />
both to advance<br />
further.<br />
resulting in the ability to<br />
work almost any material required,<br />
means that the company<br />
is now in a position to<br />
fulfil nearly every customer<br />
request. Many customers of<br />
the company travel to the<br />
<strong>Ripp</strong>s from all around the<br />
world, just to convince themselves<br />
that ideas can be realised<br />
and fulfilled with the required<br />
degree of perfection.<br />
<strong>Groh</strong> + <strong>Ripp</strong> has established<br />
a reputation in the trade for<br />
mastering the extremely difficult<br />
task of transforming a<br />
technical drawing into a finished<br />
product.<br />
8<br />
9 7.+8. Master craftsman Stephan Lorenz during the inspection stage<br />
9. View of the technical CNC department<br />
GROH + RIPP 043
“ <strong>The</strong> source<br />
of all ThaT is<br />
beautiful<br />
consisTs of<br />
a cerTain unison of<br />
opposites.<br />
Thomas Aquinas<br />
„
046 GROH + RIPP<br />
SO DIFFERENT AND YET SO SIMILAR<br />
Sister Act<br />
Nicole and Sandra <strong>Ripp</strong> have completely different<br />
approaches to their work — and this is precisely<br />
why they complement one another so well.
048 GROH + RIPP<br />
“<br />
EVERYDAY I AM<br />
ASTONISHED<br />
ANEW BY THE<br />
ENDLESS BEAUTY<br />
OF THE STONES.<br />
”<br />
Nicole <strong>Ripp</strong><br />
<strong>The</strong>y love the beautiful things.<br />
Nicole and Sandra <strong>Ripp</strong><br />
love jewellery and fashion,<br />
colours and forms, individual<br />
designs and versatile<br />
combination options. <strong>The</strong>y<br />
love nature, landscapes, the<br />
mountains in Idar-Oberstein,<br />
the forest that they<br />
walk through with Nicole’s<br />
dogs. And this is why it is<br />
not surprising that they also<br />
love gemstones. <strong>The</strong> roots<br />
of this passion lie deep: in<br />
the agate cutting firm of<br />
their grandfather they saw<br />
how large, uncut stones<br />
were gradually transformed<br />
into genuine works of art.<br />
<strong>The</strong>y recall the children of<br />
the customers with whom<br />
they played on the meadow<br />
outside the workshop, the<br />
bubbling pans on the stove,<br />
giving off their sweet smell<br />
Nicole <strong>Ripp</strong> has never lost<br />
her eye for the beauty of<br />
gemstones. Despite her<br />
daily contact with the valuable<br />
materials of nature,<br />
she still appreciates every<br />
one of them.<br />
when grandfather cleaned<br />
the agate, and the numerous<br />
journeys around the world.<br />
<strong>The</strong>y learned at an early<br />
age where the stones came<br />
from, met the mine owners<br />
and their children — an experience<br />
that still affects the<br />
sisters to this day.<br />
After leaving school they<br />
both studied Business Management.<br />
Nicole <strong>Ripp</strong> ini-<br />
tially went to America and<br />
Switzerland and completed<br />
an apprenticeship at a bank.<br />
She planned to return there.<br />
Torn between the sober<br />
world of the banker and the<br />
glittering world of the coloured<br />
stones — she finally<br />
decided on the company, due<br />
perhaps in part to the fact<br />
that she missed the sparkle,<br />
the shine and the euphoria<br />
of the material. Her passion<br />
for the coloured stones has<br />
remained with her to this<br />
day. “My sister and I have<br />
always loved the stones.<br />
Even as small children we<br />
were fascinated to see what<br />
our father and grandfather<br />
would do with the stones.<br />
We spent our childhood at<br />
the cutting workshop and<br />
this is probably where our<br />
enthusiasm comes from,”<br />
says Nicole <strong>Ripp</strong>.<br />
As similar as the sisters are,<br />
the material has been used<br />
in very different ways.<br />
Nicole’s eyes sparkle when<br />
she talks of the riddles of<br />
nature, of buying the uncut<br />
stones, of the different fundamental<br />
substances which,<br />
with the influence of colouring<br />
trace elements, become<br />
different coloured stones,<br />
such as the chrome deposits<br />
that make an emerald<br />
out of a beryl, but a ruby<br />
out of a corundum. She enthuses<br />
over the harmony of<br />
chemical structures and how<br />
they influence the structure<br />
and colour of the different<br />
stones. “It is the entirety of<br />
the different forces of nature<br />
that influence the stones,”<br />
she says, “And this complexity<br />
ultimately forms their<br />
beauty. Nature is a precious<br />
commodity — we know how<br />
to treat it appreciatively.”<br />
GROH + RIPP 049
Her enthusiasm for the precious<br />
stones has also made<br />
Nicole <strong>Ripp</strong> a highly discerning<br />
buyer. She recognises<br />
the beauty of the stones<br />
immediately and knows exactly<br />
what she wants. And<br />
she refuses to compromise in<br />
any way: “<strong>Groh</strong> + <strong>Ripp</strong><br />
stands for perfect products.<br />
And this is why the uncut<br />
stones and the subsequent<br />
processing have the highest<br />
priority.”<br />
Sandra <strong>Ripp</strong> loves<br />
plans. She, too, is<br />
fascinated by the<br />
beauty of perfectly-cut<br />
gemstones,<br />
but her focus is upon the<br />
technical processing of those<br />
stones. As a consequence,<br />
her attention is dedicated to<br />
the technical department at<br />
<strong>Groh</strong> + <strong>Ripp</strong>. She organises<br />
the work on the CNC machines,<br />
supports her customers<br />
and, above all, is constantly<br />
in search of<br />
opportunities to expand the<br />
ways in which gemstones<br />
can be worked. Figures and<br />
050 GROH + RIPP<br />
Gemstones present high<br />
demands; they are hard,<br />
but fragile and the various<br />
inclusions mean that the<br />
material differs from stone<br />
to stone. For Sandra <strong>Ripp</strong><br />
these are not obstacles,<br />
but challenges.<br />
plans have always interested<br />
her more than the jewellery<br />
itself. As a consequence, she<br />
approaches her work in a<br />
completely different way to<br />
her sister. Whilst Nicole <strong>Ripp</strong><br />
sees an uncut stone and recognises<br />
how it can become a<br />
jewel, Sandra <strong>Ripp</strong> firstly<br />
looks at the plans of the customers<br />
and the respective<br />
models. <strong>The</strong>n she considers<br />
how those plans can be implemented,<br />
what material<br />
specifications can be determined<br />
and what work stages<br />
are required. Each job order<br />
and every repair represents a<br />
new challenge to her. This<br />
makes every working day an<br />
exciting one.<br />
<strong>The</strong> two sisters pursue two<br />
completely different approaches<br />
to their work. <strong>The</strong>y<br />
frequently use the same<br />
starting materials and give<br />
them a new face in the form<br />
of different projects.<br />
As different as Nicole and<br />
Sandra <strong>Ripp</strong> may be, they<br />
complement each other very<br />
well. With their completely<br />
different approaches, their<br />
completely different eye for<br />
the uncut stone they cover<br />
both sides of the work with<br />
the gemstones. Bernd Willi<br />
<strong>Ripp</strong> is extremely proud<br />
when the subject turns to his<br />
daughters. “Even though<br />
every opportunity was open<br />
to them, it was really always<br />
clear that they would go on<br />
to manage the company,” he<br />
says, with a smile, “<strong>The</strong><br />
course has been set for the<br />
future.”<br />
“<br />
I LOVE THINKING<br />
ABOUT HOW<br />
A PLAN CAN BE<br />
TRANSFORMED<br />
INTO A FINISHED<br />
OBJECT.<br />
”<br />
Sandra <strong>Ripp</strong><br />
GROH + RIPP 051
Nicole <strong>Ripp</strong> oN heR heaRt stoNe<br />
i<br />
t is only on the second or<br />
third glance that it becomes<br />
evident what kind of stone<br />
Nicole ripp is wearing on<br />
her finger. it is a peach-coloured<br />
tourmaline from Mozambique,<br />
with a touch of<br />
cinnamon visible, depending<br />
on the way it is rotated.<br />
Like the stone of her mother,<br />
this tourmaline is also something<br />
special. particularly<br />
due to the fact that Nicole<br />
ripp selected the stone herself<br />
from a large number<br />
of uncut stones. “it was a<br />
nondescript brown colour,<br />
not at all attractive at first<br />
glance.” But Nicole ripp<br />
could already tell what the<br />
stone was capable of becom-<br />
ing. “i had it assessed by our<br />
master lapidarist,” she says.<br />
“We discovered that the oval<br />
shape was best suited to the<br />
stone.”<br />
Facets upon facets glint in<br />
the light, lending the stone<br />
an incredible depth. <strong>The</strong><br />
tourmaline is surrounded<br />
by two interwoven oval ring<br />
shanks, set with cinnamoncoloured<br />
brilliant-cut diamonds.<br />
<strong>The</strong>se provide the<br />
stone with a particularly<br />
luxurious frame.<br />
“This is<br />
now one of<br />
my favourite<br />
pieces.”<br />
<strong>Groh</strong> + ripp 053
4<br />
1 2 3<br />
5<br />
6<br />
7<br />
8<br />
1. Art Director Katja Herz and Nicole <strong>Ripp</strong> take a break in the safe room 2. Photographer<br />
Markus Abele loves his camera 3. Stylist Nina Lemm on the set 4. Sandra and Nicole <strong>Ripp</strong> during<br />
the shoot 5. Editor Christoph Hoffmann with a large tourmaline 6. Jürgen Brunk decorates<br />
a coral 7. Stefanie <strong>Ripp</strong> during the shoot 8. Layout wall meeting at Untitled in Hamburg with<br />
Nicole <strong>Ripp</strong>, Christoph Hoffmann, Katja Herz and Christian Jürgens (left to right.)<br />
Sometimes you<br />
meet people<br />
and just click<br />
with them.<br />
Four years<br />
ago, when i<br />
paid my first<br />
visit as publisher of the GZ<br />
to the prestigious company<br />
Making-of<br />
<strong>Groh</strong> + ripp in idar-oberstein,<br />
i came armed with a<br />
healthy dose of respect. But<br />
at the end of an extremely<br />
pleasant meeting Nicole<br />
ripp said to me: “We're<br />
going to co-operate well together,<br />
for a long time.” And<br />
so it turned out, because not<br />
only does the ripp family<br />
keep to its word at all times,<br />
actions also speak for themselves.<br />
<strong>The</strong>y are reliable people,<br />
the ripps, hardworking<br />
and determined, whilst<br />
at the same time creative,<br />
passionate and, above all,<br />
incredibly magnanimous.<br />
Genuine merchants, in the<br />
best sense of the word. i<br />
think that the pictures on<br />
this page illustrate very<br />
clearly: creating the <strong>Groh</strong> +<br />
ripp magazine was a lot of<br />
fun. A document of a great<br />
partnership.<br />
Christian Jürgens<br />
Published by<br />
groh + <strong>Ripp</strong><br />
Proprietor Stefanie <strong>Ripp</strong> e.K.<br />
Tiefensteiner Straße 322a<br />
55743 idar-Oberstein<br />
Phone: +49 (0) 6781 / 93 500<br />
Fax: +49 (0) 6781 / 93 50 50<br />
E-mail: info@groh-ripp.de<br />
www.groh-ripp.de<br />
Responsible<br />
Nicole <strong>Ripp</strong><br />
THE MAgAziNE<br />
imprint<br />
Realisation<br />
Untitled Verlag und Agentur<br />
gmbH & Co. Kg<br />
Medienpark Kampnagel<br />
Jarrestraße 2<br />
22303 Hamburg<br />
Phone: +49 (0) 40 / 189 881 0<br />
www.untitled-verlag.de<br />
Managing Director<br />
Dr. Christian Jürgens<br />
Art Direction<br />
Katja Herz<br />
Editor<br />
Christoph Hoffmann<br />
Photographers<br />
Markus Abele, Bernd Westphal,<br />
Dirk Weyer<br />
Staff<br />
Martina Drignat, Thorsten Fuerst,<br />
Nina Lemm<br />
Translation<br />
AD REM Sprachdienstleistungen<br />
Printing<br />
D+L Printpartner gmbH<br />
Schlavenhorst 10<br />
46395 Bocholt<br />
germany<br />
054 <strong>Groh</strong> + ripp <strong>Groh</strong> + ripp 055
Tiefensteiner Straße 322a<br />
55743 Idar-Oberstein<br />
Phone: +49 (0) 6781 / 93 500<br />
Fax: +49 (0) 6781 / 93 50 50<br />
www.groh-ripp.de