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clearing®

acne treatment and prevention

Text © Dermalogica. No part of this text may be reproduced in any way without written permission from Dermalogica. mediBac

test

the team

a manager’s guide


testing your team

Once your staff have attended our mediBac clearing ® class, it is critical that the momentum is maintained and profits maximised to ensure

their new found knowledge pays dividends in your business. This document is designed to help you keep your team on track to bring your

business maximum success with knowledge gained from the mediBac clearing class and assist you with setting targets and evaluating.

this guide covers:

• acne review

• product knowledge and ingredient test

• case studies

• acne management with microZone ® treatments

• performance review

how to use this guide:

3-5 acne review:

These questions can be printed off and used in group training sessions where staff members are prepared to have their

understanding and knowledge tested as part of a group exercise. Alternatively, you can set these questions as written

homework as part of their ongoing training and assessment.

6-7 product knowledge and ingredient test:

These questions can be printed off and used in group training sessions where staff members are prepared to have their

product knowledge tested as a group exercise. Alternatively, you could set these questions as a written homework as part of

their ongoing training and assessment.

8-15 case studies:

These case study exercises will allow therapists to explore a variety of suitable Skin Bar ® , microZone ® and 60 minute

treatment options. Suggested product options have been made on page 22-29, however, once completed, evaluate the

product options and treatment plan with the therapist to get an understanding of their choices.

16-30 the answers:

Check how well your team scored. This can also be printed for future reference.

31-32 acne management with microZone ® treatments:

Observe the therapist performing the microZone procedure for acne treatment and prevention using the checklist to evaluate

every step of the therapists microZone performance. This can be used to assess their level of performance and highlight

strengths and weaknesses. Remember to give praise for their efforts and ensure any criticism is constructive.

33 overall performance review:

This can be used to assess the therapist’s overall level of performance and highlight strengths and weaknesses. Remember

to give praise for their efforts and ensure any criticism is constructive. Use this review to set an action plan and set goals to

improve performance for the next assessment or task.

34 ingredient cheat sheet:

This easy-to-use table lists the key mediBac clearing ingredients, their benefits and which mediBac clearing products they

are found in. Use as part of a quiz, or as a reference guide.

35 find out more…

Find out what other tools are available to ensure your team are fully confident in working with the mediBac Clearing system.

2


mediBac clearing ®

acne review

1. Why are women more likely to suffer with persistent adult acne?

2. List some of the visual symptoms of adult acne:

3. Use the Face Mapping ® skin analysis diagram to indicate the zones where adult acne would

commonly appear:

b = breakout

c = comedones

d = dilated capillaries

dh = dehydration

m = milia

p = pigmentation

fl = fine lines

dl = deep lines

s = sensitivity

4. List some of the visual symptoms of teenage acne:

3


5. Use the Face Mapping ® skin analysis diagram to indicate the zones where teenage acne would

commonly appear:

6. List the four main contributory factors that lead to the development of acne:

7. Explain, in client language, how the four factors contribute to acne formation:

a. Follicle

b. Skin cells

b = breakout

c = comedones

d = dilated capillaries

dh = dehydration

m = milia

p = pigmentation

fl = fine lines

dl = deep lines

s = sensitivity

c. Sebaceous gland and sebum

4


d. Bacteria

8. List as many acne triggers as you can:

9. Use the bullet points to create a flow chart to explain how androgens stimulate sebaceous activity:

• TESTOSTERONE

• 5 ALPHA REDUCTASE

• DIHYDROTESTOSTERONE

ANDROGENS

INCREASE IN SEBUM

5


mediBac clearing ®

product knowledge and ingredient test

1. Name a key ingredient to help draw sebum and impurities out of the skin:

2. Name a key ingredient to control the over production of skin cells:

3. Name a key ingredient to control the over production of sebum:

4. Name a key ingredient to control bacteria:

5. Name a key ingredient to control inflammation associated with breakouts:

6. which cleanser would you recommend to a first time mediBac Clearing ® user?

7. At what stage of the homecare routine should a client be using Skin Purifying Wipes?

8. What are the benefits of Clearing Mattifier’s silicone base?

9. Which product can be used as an all-in-one moisturiser and sunscreen for acne prone skins?

10. Describe how Overnight Clearing Gel should be applied to the skin:

11. If your client is allergic to Benzoyl Peroxide, what other spot treatment can they use?

6


12. Give one key selling point for Sebum Clearing Masque:

13. Which booster can be added to Colloidal Masque Base to create a masque that will help eliminate

bacteria while fighting dehydration?

14. What can be added to Oil Free Massage to enhance the benefits?

15. What are the contraindications to the use of Skin Exfoliant System?

16. At what stage in the professional treatment can mediBac Clearing ® Complex be used?

17. How long should mediBac Clearing ® Masque be left on the skin?

18. Explain how to mix mediBac Clearing ® Masque:

7

How did you score? Find out on page 17-18.


mediBac clearing ®

case study 1

complete a homecare prescription during a Skin Bar SM experience

Evaluate your approach to acne management with mediBac clearing ® by prescribing a homecare regimen for

the case study listed below.

Name: Joe Green

Age Group: 21-30

Occupation: Builder

Lifestyle: • Had acne as a teenager which cleared as he moved into his early teens

• Skin has once again developed acne lesions as a result; Joe has been to visit the GP

and has been prescribed Roaccutane

• Joe has been taking Roaccutane for two weeks

• New business owner

• Working very long hours to get the business up and running

• Using a heavy moisturiser but doesn’t like the consistency

Skin Concerns: • Stinging sensation on application of product

• Skin peeling around the mouth and nostrils

• Tightness and flaking after cleansing

Contraindications: Taking Roaccutane prescribed for acne

Client Goals: To control the tightness and peeling due to Roaccutane medication.

step 1 – consultation

List the key questions from the Face Mapping ® skin analysis Consultation Card you would ask to investigate

further thus assisting you in designing the right treatment for Joe:






8


step 2 – Face Mapping ® skin analysis

Fill in the Face Mapping ® skin analysis diagram

according to what you are likely to see on Joe’s skin:

step 3 – Face Mapping ® skin analysis prescription and skin lesson at Skin Bar SM

List the key products according to Joe’s skin needs and sophistication level. For each product listed, include

a key ingredient, two benefits and describe the directions for use:






step 4 – close the sale

b = breakout

c = comedones

d = dilated capillaries

dh = dehydration

m = milia

p = pigmentation

fl = fine lines

dl = deep lines

s = sensitivity

Outline how you would complete the discussion with Joe and ask for the sale.

9


mediBac clearing ®

case study 2

develop a microZone ® treatment

Evaluate your approach to acne management with mediBac clearing by designing a customised MicroZone

treatment plan for the case study listed below.

Name: Elaine Smith

Age Group: 30-40

Occupation: Accountant

Lifestyle: • Had a baby 12 months ago

• Just returned to work full time

• Only product being used is a medicated soap

Skin Concerns: Constantly experiencing breakouts and congestion on chin and jaw line

Contraindications: Elaine is still lactating

Client Goals: To clear the skin breakouts and smooth the skin

step 1 – consultation

List the key questions from the Face Mapping ® skin analysis Consultation Card you would ask to investigate

further thus assisting you in designing the right treatment for Elaine:






step 2 – Face Mapping ® skin analysis

Fill in the Face Mapping ® skin analysis diagram

according to what you are likely to see on Elaine’s skin:

b = breakout

c = comedones

d = dilated capillaries

dh = dehydration

m = milia

p = pigmentation

fl = fine lines

dl = deep lines

s = sensitivity

10


step 3 – the microZone ® treatment

Below is an outline of the various steps you may choose to incorporate into your customised MicroZone

treatment. Fill in the professional and retail product and electrical modalities you may choose to use for each

step. Include three key skin concerns you may be looking for during the Face Mapping ® skin analysis stage in

context with what you would have discussed during the consultation. Should you decide to not include a step

within your treatment denote this by writing ‘N/A’.

key tip: remember to design a treatment that can be performed within a 20 minute time frame!

eye and lip cleanse:

double cleanse:

Face Mapping ® skin analysis:

exfoliation:

extractions:

serum/complex:

masque:

spritz:

eye product:

moisturiser:

sunscreen:

step 4 – prescription at Skin Bar SM

List the key products according to Elaine’s skin needs and sophistication level:

11


step 5 – close the sale

Outline how you would complete the discussion with Elaine and ask for the sale:

12


mediBac clearing ®

case study 3

the core treatment

Evaluate your approach to professional treatments by designing a customised 60 minute treatment plan for

the case study listed below:

Name: Tamsin O’Leary

Age Group: Under 21

Occupation: Student

Hobbies: Socialising

Health: • Social smoker

Stress Level: 3

• Drinks alcohol at weekends with friends

• Consumes four caffeinated beverages a day

Skin Concerns: • Uses face wipes and moisturiser from department store counter

• Has had a professional treatment twice before as birthday and Christmas gifts

• Oily T-zone with congestion and comedones

• Zones 5 and 9 – mild breakouts

Client Goals: Wants to achieve clear skin in time for starting the new term at university. Tamsin’s

parents have paid for a series of treatments and products as a reward for her successful

exam results.

step 1 – consultation

List the key questions from the Face Mapping ® skin analysis Consultation Card you would ask to investigate

further thus assisting you in designing the right treatment for Tamsin:






13


step 2 – Face Mapping ® skin analysis

Fill in the Face Mapping ® skin analysis diagram

according to what you are likely to see on Tamsin’s skin:

step 3 – the professional treatment

therapist’s focus:




cleanse hands and feet with steam towel customised with which botanical mixer:

eye and lip cleanse:

first cleanse:

customise cleansing water with:

second cleanse:

brushes/power cleanse:

Face Mapping ® skin analysis:

exfoliation:

b = breakout

c = comedones

d = dilated capillaries

dh = dehydration

m = milia

p = pigmentation

fl = fine lines

dl = deep lines

s = sensitivity

14


extractions:

massage:

serum/complex – can use more than one:

masque – can use more than one:

spritz:

eye product:

moisturiser:

sunscreen:

homecare prescription:

step 4 – Face Mapping ® skin analysis prescription at Skin Bar SM

List the key products according to Tamsin’s skin needs and sophistication level:

step 5 – close the sale

Outline how you would complete the discussion with Tamsin and ask for the sale:

15


16

the

answers


product knowledge test

the answers

1. Why are women more likely to suffer with persistent adult acne?

• Chronic stress

• Juggling commitments e.g. workplace + household

• Hormones

• Medication can make matters worse

2. List some of the visual symptoms of adult acne:

• Persistent redness

• Often have increased sensitivity

• Slower healing rate

• Post inflammatory hyperpigmentation

3. Use the Face Mapping ® skin analysis diagram

to indicate the zones where adult acne would

commonly appear:

b = breakout

c = comedones

d = dilated capillaries

dh = dehydration

m = milia

p = pigmentation

fl = fine lines

dl = deep lines

s = sensitivity

4. List some of the visual symptoms of teenage acne:

• Oiliness

• Comedones

• Milia

• Pustules

• Papules

5. Use the Face Mapping ® skin analysis diagram

to indicate the zones where teenage acne would

commonly appear:

b = breakout

c = comedones

d = dilated capillaries

dh = dehydration

m = milia

p = pigmentation

fl = fine lines

dl = deep lines

s = sensitivity

17

b

b

b

b

b

c c

c

c

c

b

b

b

overall oiliness


6. List the four main contributory factors that lead to the development of acne:

• Follicle

• Skin cells

• Sebaceous gland and sebum

• Bacteria

7. Explain, in client language, how the four factors contribute to acne formation:

Follicle

In a normally functioning skin, the hair within the follicle acts as a wick to draw oil and dead skin cells up and out of the follicle onto

the surface of the skin where it can be cleansed away. However, in an acne skin, follicles are often missing a hair. This means that oil

and skin cells can build up within the follicle and cause congestion.

Skin cells

In a normally functioning skin, skin cells are developed in the lowest layers of the skin and work their way through a series of layers.

When the skin cells reach the uppermost layers of the skin, enzymes are activated to allow them to shed. In acne skin this process

is affected because of a lack of the enzymes needed to facilitate the shedding process. In addition, acne skins over produce skin

cells by 4-5 times! This adds to the build up of skin cells on the skins surface and contributes to the congestion of the skin.

Sebaceous gland and sebum

In a normally functioning skin, the skin’s natural oily substance (called sebum) has a consistency of olive oil. In acne skin the

consistency of sebum is more like butter therefore it is more likely to become stuck within the follicle and lead to congestion.

Sebaceous activity is under the control of hormones, in particular testosterone. Testosterone within the skin reacts with an

enzyme (called 5 alpha reductase.) This leads to the formation of a more aggressive type of the testosterone hormone (called

dihydrotestosterone) which in turn directly increases sebum production.

Bacteria

While follicles remain uncongested, bacteria that reside within them remain dormant. As soon as oxygen is restricted within the

follicle (due to congestion from dead skin cells and sebum) bacteria becomes active.

Bacteria within the follicles stimulate an enzyme (called lipase) which leads to a process of inflammation and potentially the

stimulation of white blood cells, this is when we would see a pustule.

8. List as many acne triggers as you can:

• Heredity

• Cosmetics

• Environment

• Medication

• Hormones

• Friction

• Picking

• Industrial oils

18


9. Use the bullet points to create a flow chart to explain how androgens stimulate sebaceous activity:

ANDROGENS

TESTOSTERONE

DIHYDROTESTOSTERONE

INCREASE IN SEBUM

19

5 ALPHA REDUCTASE


the answers

product knowledge

1. Name a key ingredient to help draw sebum and impurities out of the skin:

Bentonite and Kaolin

2. Name a key ingredient to control the over production of skin cells:

• Salicylic acid

• Lactic acid

• Papain

• Sulphur

3. Name a key ingredient to control the over production of sebum:

• Nordihydroguieretic acid

• Niacinamide

• Yeast extract

• Horse chestnut

• Microsponges

• Sarcosine

• Zinc Gluconate

4. Name a key ingredient to control bacteria:

• Benzoyl Peroxide

• Spirea Ulmaria Extract (meadowsweet)

• Cinnamomum Zeylamium Extract

• Zinc gluconate

• Zinc sulphate

• Rosemary extract

• Tea Tree oil

• Balm Mint

• Sulphur

• Sarcosine

5. Name a key ingredient to control inflammation associated with breakouts:

• Green tea

• Panthenol

• Camphor

• Bisabolol

• Allantion

• Echinacea

• Oat extract

• Liquorice extract

6. which cleanser would you recommend to a first time mediBac Clearing ® user?

This is an advanced treatment cleanser that should only be used once a day. Therefore a client should be established on a

cleansing system from the Skin Health System before then advancing to Clearing Skin Wash. This cleanser contains Salicylic

acid which may irritate sensitised skin. Therefore it is recommended that you ask the client to sample the Clearing Skin Wash

to check for suitability before the client purchases the full size.

7. At what stage of the homecare routine should a client be using Skin Purifying Wipes?

After cleansing and before moisturiser.

8. What are the benefits of Clearing Mattifier’s silicone base?

• Silicones melt gently into the skin to help diminish fine lines and smooth skin texture.

• Active ingredients create a matte finish while minimising dehydration.

20


9. What can be used as an all-in-one moisturiser and sunscreen for acne prone skins?

• Oil Free Matte Block spf20

• Active Moist and Solar Defense Booster spf30

• Sheer Moisture spf15

• Sheer Tint Moisture spf15

10. Describe how Overnight Clearing Gel should be applied to the skin:

At night, apply a thin layer all over a cleansed face and allow to absorb. In the morning cleanse as usual.

Alternatively, apply to specific areas of breakout activity.

11. Your client is allergic to Benzoyl Peroxide, what other spot treatment could they use?

Concealing Spot Treatment

12. Give one key selling point for Sebum Clearing Masque:

• Imparts a cooling sensation on skin that helps to soothe aggravation bought on by breakouts.

• Addresses and controls the four factors that contribute to acne: i.e. overactive sebaceous glands, cell

accumulation, bacteria and inflammation.

• Absorbs oil and refines skin texture.

• Helps purify skin while strengthening the follicle membrane wall to help control inflammation associated with

follicle eruptions.

13. Which booster can be added to Colloidal Masque Base to create a masque to eliminate bacteria while

fighting dehydration?

Special Clearing Booster

14. What can be added to Oil Free Massage to enhance benefits?

• Clearing Additive (for a non oil phobic client)

• Purifying Botanical Mixer

15. What are the contraindications to the use of Skin Exfoliant System?

• Clients using retin A

• Accutane

• Skin that has been waxed in the last 24 hours

• Sunburn

16. At what stage in the professional treatment can mediBac Clearing ® Complex be used?

• Massage

• Under/mixed with masque

• Under/mixed with moisturiser

• Throughout treatment with eco spray/dr lucas

• With galvanic iontophorisis

17. How long should mediBac Clearing ® Masque be left on the skin?

10 minutes

18. Explain how to mix mediBac Clearing ® Masque:

Mix 1 scoop of medibac Clearing ® Masque – part one with one scoop of water then add six drops of medibac Clearing ®

Masque – part 2. Customise with 1-2 drops of Purifying Botanical Mixer.

21


mediBac clearing ®

case study 1: the answers

step 1 – consultation

List the key questions from the Face Mapping ® skin analysis Consultation Card you would ask to investigate

further to assist you design the right treatment for Joe:

• List any medications, supplements, vitamins, diuretics, slimming tablets etc that you take regularly

• Rate your stress on a scale of 1-4

• What products are you currently using?

• Do you use Accutane, Retin-A, Renova, Adapalene or any other prescription skin products?

• What spf sunscreen do you use on your face/body?

step 2 – Face Mapping ® skin analysis

Fill in the Face Mapping ® skin analysis diagram according to what you are likely to see on Joe’s skin.

step 3 – Face Mapping skin analysis ® prescription and skin lesson at Skin Bar SM

List the key products according to Joe’s skin needs and sophistication level.

For each product listed, include a key ingredient, two benefits and describe directions for use

precleanse

s s

peeling

overall

dehydration

key ingredients:

Olive Oil, Apricot Kernel, Kukui Nut, Borage Seed, Rice Bran, Vitamin E, Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride

benefits:

Dissolves oil based make-up, sebum, sunscreens and environmental pollution from the skins surface, enabling skin to be

thoroughly cleansed

Removes oils without compromising the skins natural barrier lipids or clogging follicles

Fortified with conditioning essential fatty acids to help smooth, calm and nourish skin.

Delivers a level of cleansing traditionally experienced in the treatment room.

A great make-up remover: even for waterproof mascara and long wearing lipstick.

Enables the prescribed Dermalogica cleanser to work more efficiently.

directions for use:

Dispense into dry hands. Massage over dry face and eyes to dissolve surface oils and dirt. Concentrate on areas of congestion

or stubborn debris. Wet hands and continue massaging to create a light, milky emulsion. Rinse with lukewarm water. Follow

with Dermalogica prescribed cleanser.

22


ultracalming cleanser

key ingredients:

Anti-Ozonate Complex

Lavender

Coneflower

Raspberry Fruit

Cucumber

Panthenol

benefits:

May be removed with tissue or the sponge cloth, making it ideal for skin conditions too sensitised even for water

Successfully removes eye and lip make-up

Gentle, non-foaming cleanser to glide over the skin to minimise agitation

Leaves no irritating residue

Protects skins natural lipid barrier

Helps prevent future assault

directions for use:

Following the application of Precleanse, apply to the face and throat, gently massage with fingertips with light, upward strokes.

Rinse thoroughly with warm water or remove with dry cotton pads.

soothing protection spray

key ingredients:

Anti-Ozonate Complex

Sodium PCA

Canadian Willow Herb

Liquorice

Raspberry

Cucumber

benefits:

Helps create a protective shield against environmental assaults that can lead to irritation or redness

Provides critical hydration while helping to defend against damaging free radicals

Helps control irritation and redness

directions for use:

Perform the Dermalogica Double Cleanse that begins with Precleanse followed by Ultra Calming Cleanser. Spray directly over

the entire face, throat and neck with eyes closed. May also be sprayed onto fingertips or cotton pad and applied to the skin

with light upward strokes.

barrier repair

key ingredients:

Anti-Ozonate Complex

Evening Primrose

Silicones

Shea Butter

Vitamin C

Bisabolol

benefits:

Creates a shield against environmental assault to help prevent further damaging assaults

Combats free radicals and moisture loss

Silicones provide a velvety feel

Provides a smooth, even base ideal for preparing skin for make-up application

23


directions for use:

Apply a small amount over face and throat with light, upward strokes. Best used following Soothing Protection Spray. Use

twice daily, morning and night.

skin hydrating masque

key ingredients:

Bitter Orange

Hops

Cucumber

Arnica

benefits:

Can be used over the entire face and throat or as a hydrating eye masque

Helps restore suppleness while minimising the appearance of fine lines

Plant extracts help to sooth and calm skin

Intensify hydration by applying Skin Hydrating Booster to skin before applying masque

directions for use:

Apply a smooth film to clean face and throat. Allow masque to absorb for 7-10 minutes. Rinse with tepid water or remove with

the sponge cloth. Use once or twice a week as prescribed.

skin hydrating booster

key ingredients:

Hyaluronic Acid

Panthenol

Algae Extract

benefits:

Hydrates tissues to smooth skin, improve suppleness and minimise the appearance of fine lines

Ideal for the eye and lip areas showing dryness lines

Restores barrier layer to retain critical moisture levels

Revitalises parched skin

directions for use:

Squeeze a small dose onto fingertips and massage gently over face and throat. Follow with prescribed Dermalogica

moisturiser. For more sensitised skin conditions, mix with prescribed Dermalogica moisturiser and then apply to face and

throat.

climate control

key ingredients:

Anti-Ozonate Complex

Shea Butter

Vitamin E

Oat

Bisabolol

Lavender

benefits:

Protective formula glides easily over skin to prevent further environmental assault

Works amazingly well on skin that is raw or peeling due to excess friction

Enhances skin’s natural lipid barrier

Ideal for use during outdoor sports or air travel

Also available in smaller size for the lips

24


directions for use:

Apply constant pressure at base of container to push stick up. Gently glide Climate Control over areas of face that need

protection. For the lips, apply at least once a day or as needed.

super sensitive faceblock spf30

key ingredients:

Titanium Dioxide

Zinc Oxide

Vitamin C

Vitamin E

Liquorice

Green Tea

Hyaluronic Acid

Dimethicone

benefits:

Formulated specifically for sensitised skin using only natural mineral UV protectors (no chemical sunscreens) to protect against

UVA and UVB photodamage

Antioxidants and botanical extracts help guard against premature ageing and irritation

Provides optimal hydration while reinforcing the skins natural barrier lipids

Ideal for people who experience irritation from chemical sunscreen ingredients

directions for use:

After cleansing and toning, apply evenly and liberally to face, preferably 30 minutes prior to sun exposure. Use after for instead

of your daily moisturiser for year round protection against sun damage and daylight exposure. For continuous protection, apply

regularly. Reapply as needed after swimming or exercise.

step 5 – close the sale

Outline how you would complete the discussion with Joe and ask for the sale. Some examples include:

“Does that sound like a product routine that suits you? Great, would you like to buy anything today?”

“Would you like to take those five or just the three that I have highlighted for your main concerns?”

“Well, it looks like we have narrowed it down to three. Which did you decide on, the small or the more economical large sizes?”

“Are you happy with how the products will benefit your skin? Great, so would you like to take them today?”

“Great! Now that we have found the right cleanser let us look for the right moisturiser.”

25


mediBac clearing

case study 2: the answers

step 1 – consultation

List the key questions from the Face Mapping ® skin analysis Consultation Card you would ask to investigate further thus

assisting you in designing the right treatment for Elaine.

• List any medications, supplements, vitamins, diuretics, slimming tablets etc that you take regularly

• Rate your stress on a scale of 1-4

• What products are you currently using?

• What spf sunscreen do you use on your face/body?

• Do you ever experience oily shine during the day?

step 2 – Face Mapping ® skin analysis

Fill in the Face Mapping ® skin analysis diagram according to what you are likely to see on Elaine’s skin.

step 3 – the microZone ® treatment

eye and lip cleanse: • Soothing Eye Make-Up Remover

• Precleanse

double cleanse: • PreCleanse

• UltraCalming Cleanser

Face Mapping ® skin analysis: Sensitised skin in zones 11, 12, 13 where Elaine has been putting harsh ingredients on her

skin to combat the breakouts.

exfoliation:

extractions:

c

b c b

serum / complex: • Environmental Control Serum

• AGE Smart Complex

c

Papular breakouts in zones 11, 12, 13. These are tender and hot to touch and are red in

colour. This is likely to be due to the hormone imbalance caused by pregnancy. Also due to

stress of a new baby and sleepless nights.

Daily Microfoliant – the skin has been over stripped with harsh ingredients and is sensitised,

so exfoliation needs to be a mild formula.

n/a

masque: Clinical Colloidal Oatmeal Masque with Galvanic iontophoresis

26


toner: Soothing Protection Spray or Multi-Active Toner

eye product: MultiVitamin Power Firm or Total Eye Care spf15

targeted treatment: Clearing Mattifier

moisturiser:

sunscreen:

• Sheer Moisture spf15

• Sheer Tint Moisture spf15

• Active Moist

• Barrier Repair (combined with any of the above)

• Super Sensitive FaceBlock spf30

• Solar Defense Booster

• Ultra Sensitive FaceBlock spf25

step 4 – Face Mapping ® skin analysis prescription at Skin Bar SM

Elaine is a Gateway Client. The only product that she is currently using is a medicated soap. Therefore we

would generally recommend no more than three products. We may select three products from the options

below which we felt most critical such as a cleanser, moisturiser with a spf. Over time we could introduce

more products into Elaine’s routine.

suggested prescribed products:

• Ultracalming Cleanser

• Soothing Protection Spray

• Multi-Active Toner

• Clearing Mattifier

• Barrier Repair

• Sheer Moisture spf15

• Sheer Tint Moisture spf15

• Active Moist

• Concealing Spot Treatment

• Super Sensitive FaceBlock spf30

• Solar Defense Booster

• Ultra Sensitive FaceBlock spf25

• MultiVitamin Power Recovery Masque

• Skin Hydrating Masque

• Gentle Soothing Booster

• Skin Hydrating Booster

step 5 – close the sale

Outline how you would complete the discussion with Elaine and ask for the sale. Examples could include:

“Does that sound like a product routine that suits you? Great, would you like to buy anything today?”

“Would you like to take those five or just the three that I have highlighted for your main concerns?”

“Well, it looks like we have narrowed it down to three. Which did you decide on, the small or the more economical large sizes?”

“Are you happy with how the products will benefit your skin? Great, so would you like to take them today?”

“Great! Now that we have found the right cleanser let us look for the right moisturiser.”

27


mediBac clearing

case study 3: the answers

step 1- consultation

List the key questions from the Face Mapping ® skin analysis Consultation Card you would ask to investigate

further to assist you in designing the right treatment for Tamsin:

• List any medications, supplements, vitamins, diuretics, slimming tablets etc that you take regularly

• Do you smoke?

• How many alcoholic beverages do you consume weekly?

• Rate your stress on a scale of 1-4

• What products are you currently using?

• What spf sunscreen do you use on your face/body?

• Do you ever experience oily shine during the day?

• Do you ever experience breakouts?

• Do you drink more than four caffeinated beverages daily?

• What are your skin care goals?

step 2 – Face Mapping ® skin analysis

Fill in the Face Mapping ® skin analysis diagram according to what you are likely to see on Tamsin’s skin.

step 3 – treatment plan

therapist’s focus: • Absorb the shine from the oily t-zone

• Decongest areas of congestion and comedones

• Heal and dry any breakouts

cleanse hands and feet with

steam towel customised with

which botanical mixer:

Purifying Botanical Mixer

eye and lip cleanse: • PreCleanse

• Soothing Eye Make-Up Remover

first cleanse:

customise cleansing

water with:

second cleanse:

c

b c b

c

PreCleanse

Purifying Botanical Mixer

Dermal Clay Cleanser

Optional: Electrical Brushes to deliver a power cleanse

28


Face Mapping ® skin analysis: Oily shine in zones 1, 2, 3, 7, 12 possibly due to genetic oily skin type

Comedones and congestion in zones 1, 2, 3, 7, 12, 11, 13 possibly due to cosmetics and

infrequent skin routine

Mild breakouts in zones 5, 9

All over dehydration due to smoking

exfoliation:

Skin Exfoliant System or Daily Microfoliant

extractions: • If used Skin Exfoliant System – go straight into extractions on zones 1, 2 ,3, 7, and 12

• If used Daily Microfoliant, apply Scaling Fluid and leave for 10 minutes

• Optional: Vacuum suction or Galvanic desincrustation

• Perform extractions

massage:

Oil Free Massage customised with Purifying Botanical Mixer

serum / complex: • MediBac Clearing Complex on T-zone

• AGE Smart Complex on all other zones for hydration and healing

masque: • MediBac Clearing Masque on T-zone

• Mix with colloidal masque base to finish application over the rest of the face

• Alternatively use colloidal masque base

spritz: Multi-Active Toner

eye product: MultiVitamin Power Firm

moisturiser: • Sheer Moisture spf15

• Sheer Tint Moisture spf15

• Active Moist

sunscreen: Solar Defense Booster

step 4 – Face Mapping ® skin analysis prescription at Skin Bar SM

Tamsin is an intermediate Client. She is using products on her skin but needs a little more education about the types of ingredients and

products she needs. Therefore we would generally recommend up to five products. We may select the products from the options below which

we felt most critical.

• Precleanse

• Dermal Clay Cleanser

• Skin Purifying Wipes

• Overnight Clearing Gel

• Gentle Cream Exfoliant

• Oil Free Matte Block spf20

• Sheer Moisture spf15

• Sheer Tint Moisture spf15

• Active Moist

• Solar Defense Booster

• MultiVitamin Power Recovery ® Masque

• MultiVitamin Power Firm

• Skin Hydration Booster

• Skin Hydrating Masque

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step 5 – close the sale

Outline how you would complete the discussion with Tamsin and ask for the sale.

“Could you see yourself using any of these products?”

“Does that sound like a product routine that suits you? Great, would you like to buy anything today?”

“Would you like to take those five or just the three that I have highlighted for your main concerns?”

“Well, it looks like we have narrowed it down to three. Which did you decide on, the small or the more economical large sizes?”

“Are you happy with how the products will benefit your skin? Great, so would you like to take them today?”

“Great! Now that we have found the right cleanser let us look for the right moisturiser.”

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mediBac clearing

acne management with microZone ® treatments

Use the checklist to ensure the therapist has all the equipment needed before starting. Observe the therapist

performing the MicroZone procedure for acne treatment and prevention using the checklist to evaluate every step

of the therapists MicroZone performance. This can be used to assess their level of performance and highlight

strengths and weaknesses. Remember to give praise for their efforts and ensure any criticism is constructive. Use

this review to set an action plan and set goals to improve performance for the next assessment or task.

We recommend that staff practise this procedure on work colleagues or the business owner first, then move on

to performing the MicroZone treatment on at least five model clients to help gain confidence with the treatment

before tackling paying clients.

getting started

Proper planning prevents poor performance! When evaluating the therapist’s performance, use the checklist below to make

sure they have everything they need:

Professional and key Retail Products

Barber Chair/ Treatment Couch

Headset for Face Mapping ® skin analysis

Face Mapping ® skin Analysis Consultation Cards

Face Mapping ® skin Analysis Prescription sheets

Electrical Modalities

Disposable Bonnets

Steam Towels for removing product (4 per client)

Bib or Towel to protect client clothing

Cotton Wool/ Cotton Buds/ Cotton Pads

Water (running water or a bowl/hook neck water bottle)

Rubbish Bin

Clipboard and Pen

step 1 – Dermalogica Face Mapping ® skin analysis Consultation Card

Warm and friendly initial greeting

Physical barrier broken by hand shake or gentle touch on the shoulder

Introduce the Consultation Card to the client and explain the importance of the extensive questions on it

Ask the client to sign and date the Consultation Card

Review the card with the client and pick out relevant sections

Ask further probing questions without just reading through and repeating the client’s answers back to them

Summarise by repeating back to the client their key concerns

Explain how the MicroZone treatment will proceed

Get client comfortable on treatment couch/barber chair

Protect clients clothing and put on disposable bonnet to protect hair if necessary

Sanitise hands prior to treatment

step 2 – Dermalogica Face Mapping ® skin analysis

Cleanse skin with appropriate cleansers to prepare for a thorough skin analysis

Introduce the concept of Face Mapping ® skin analysis

Put on your headset/use magnifying lamp and explain the use to the client

Talk through each zone to the client by communicating what you can see and feel

Work methodically whilst touching and feeling the skin

Identify the key concerns and zones

Ask additional probing questions linked to information gained via consultation card

Educate the client about the possible root causes of their skin concerns and provide generic ingredient /

product solutions

Summarise findings

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step 3 – the microZone ® treatment

Eye and lip cleanse if necessary

Double cleanse

Face Mapping ® skin analysis

Exfoliation

Extractions

Serum/complex

Masque

Spritz

Eye product

Moisturiser

Sunscreen

step 4 – Face Mapping ® skin analysis prescription at Skin Bar SM

Fill in name and date

Fill in Face Mapping ® skin analysis diagram

Information recorded should be neat and legible

Fill in according to sophistication of client e.g.

Gateway client – three products/basic routine

Intermediate client – up to five products/targeted treatments

Advanced client – two or three key hero products

Explain to the client the key skin concerns have been identified and a skin lesson will now ensure the client can get the

best results from their homecare regimen

Present findings:

Clarify information gained during the consultation and the concerns the client had with their skin.

Discuss findings from Face Mapping ® skin analysis

Provide education

Show the client the prescription sheet

Communicate to the client the recommended product solutions

Highlight features and benefits of product recommendations

Allow client the opportunity to feel touch and experience the product for themselves

Educate the client on quantities, sensations, removal and usage of product

step 5 – close the sale

Ask the client what they would like to purchase

Deal with any objections

Wrap the purchase

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mediBac clearing

overall performance review:

name: ..........................................................

product

knowledge

good average below

average

action plan

(if average or below)

• Agree with therapist a time frame for learning

product categories

• Refer to Dermalogica Live! student notes

• Refer to mediBac clearing student notes

• Refer to mediBac clearing training manual

consultation • Refer to Great Skin with Face Mapping ® skin

analysis student notes

• Use existing Consultation Cards as case studies

and role play the discussion

Face Mapping ®

skin analysis

• Agree with therapist to perform Face Mapping ®

skin analysis on every client

• Monitor prescription sheets attached

to consultation cards at the end of every day

• Introduce a mystery shopper

microZone ® • Refer back to MicroZone student notes

• Practice performing MicroZone treatments on

staff and models

• Set another evaluation in 2 weeks time to

monitor performance

• Outline the exact performance you expect in

the future

prescription at

Skin Bar SM and

closing the sale

Face Mapping ®

skin analysis

prescription at

Skin Bar SM and

closing the sale

• Book them on Advanced Retailing

Techniques class

• Are they able to buy the product at cost price

from you? They will ask for the sale if they

believe in the products themselves

• Set sales targets and reward when they

achieve them

• Test their product knowledge

• Book them on Advanced Retailing Techniques

• Are they able to buy the product at cost price

from you? They will ask for the sale if they

believe in the products themselves

• Set sales targets and reward when they

achieve them

confidence • Find out what they are doing right

• If their product knowledge is poor then their

confidence will be too

• Give them one product a day to learn, then

test them

• Congratulate achievements

• Buddy new/less confident therapists with

stronger more senior therapists

communication

skills

33

• Role play and practice, practice, practice!

• Book them on Advanced Retailing Techniques

• Set clear guidelines of how clients should be

greeted and treated

• At your next team meeting, ask your staff to

present a product or challenge them to perform

• Face Mapping ® skin analysis demonstration


mediBac clearing

ingredient cheat sheet

ingredient description found in

Methyl Methacrylate/

Glycol Dimethacrylate

Crosspolymer and Vinyl

Dimethicone/Methicone

Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer

(microsponges)

Absorb excess oil on skin’s surface to help prevent

shine and maintain a matte finish.

Camellia Oleifera (Green Tea) Soothes and calms inflammation associated with

acne.

Camphor Cooling and antiseptic extract with anti-bacterial

properties.

Cinnamon Extract Regulates sebum production and helps reduce

acne-type lesions.

Oil Control Lotion

Clearing Mattifier, Overnight Clearing Gel

Clearing Skin Wash, Skin Purifying Wipes, Oil

Control Lotion, mediBac clearing ® Masque System,

Concealing Spot Treatment, Overnight Clearing

Gel, Sebum Clearing Masque, mediBac clearing ®

Complex, Oil Free Massage

Clearing Mattifier, Concealing Spot Treatment,

Sebum Clearing Masque

Coneflower Has anti-bacterial and anti-inflammatory properties. Skin Purifying Wipes

Enantia Chlorantha

Assists in controlling sebaceous gland secretions Clearing Mattifier, Oil Control Lotion

Bark Extract

and minimising pore size

Niacinamide, Zinc Gluconate, Combination of ingredients regulates sebaceous Clearing Mattifier, Oil Control Lotion, Overnight

Caffeine, Biotin, Yeast, gland secretions by inhibiting 5-alpha reductase Clearing Gel, Concealing Spot Treatment, Sebum

licorice, Panthenol and Horse enzyme activity.

Clearing Masque, mediBac clearing Complex, Oil

Chestnut Seed Extract

Free Massage, mediBac clearing Masque System

Nordihydroguaiaretic Acid Regulates cell proliferation and sebaceous activity by

decreasing overall lipid formation in the sebaceous

glands. Also helps with inflammation.

Overnight Clearing Gel, mediBac clearing Complex

Salicylic Acid A beta hydroxy acid that aids in clearing congested Clearing , Skin Purifying Wipes, Clearing Mattifier, Oil

follicles. Also stimulates natural exfoliation, helping to Control Lotion, Overnight Clearing Gel, Concealing

clear impacted follicles and minimise acne formation. Spot Treatment, Sebum Clearing Masque, mediBac

clearing Complex, mediBac clearing Masque –

Part 1

Sarcosine Regulates sebum production and inhibits lipase Concealing Spot Treatment, Sebum Clearing

activity in bacteria.

Masque, Clearing Mattifier, Oil Free Massage

Spiraea Ulmaria Extract Rich in phenolic acids that inhibit bacteria by

stimulating the skin’s natural anti-bacterial agents.

Also acts as an anti-inflammatory.

Overnight Clearing Gel, Sebum Clearing Masque

Sulfur Clears skin by eliminating bacteria associated with Concealing Spot Treatment, mediBac clearing

acne and by clearing excess oil and congestion in

the follicle.

Masque – Part 1

Yeast Extract Assists in controlling sebaceous gland secretions Clearing Mattifier, Oil Control Lotion, Overnight

and aids in repair of tissues.

Clearing Gel, Concealing Spot Treatment, Sebum

Clearing Masque, mediBac clearing Complex, Oil

Free Massage, mediBac clearing Masque System

34


find out more…

book a class:

mediBac clearing Product Knowledge tel: 08000 564 544 (UK) / 1800 818 555 (Eire)

mediBac clearing Treatment Techniques book online: dermalogica.com

Great Skin with Face Mapping ® skin analysis email: enquiry@dermalinstitute.co.uk

MicroZone Treatments

Skin Bar Tending

Advanced Retailing Techniques

look it up:

mediBac clearing Training Manual tel: 0800 591 818 (UK) / 1800 818 555 (Eire)

view online: dermalogica.com

watch it:

mediBac clearing DVD tel: 0800 591 818 (UK) / 1800 818 555 (Eire)

view online: dermalogica.com

ask us:

Education Product Information tel: 01372 363 600 (UK) / 1800 818 555 (Eire)

email: educationenquirysupport@dermalogica.co.uk

35


dermalogica.com

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