june-2012

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PHOTOGRAPH BY SAM POLCER. NEXT PAGE: HOLLY STEIN/ICON SMI/RETNA LTD. (MAY-TREANOR)
YOUR
COMPLIMENTARY
COPY
78
THE HEMI Q&A
First lady Michelle
Obama on good food,
healthy kids and her
high-profi le garden
82
THE BALLAD
OF ADDIS ABABA
One man’s quest to
bring a pioneering
art form back to its
African homeland
88
THE MEANING OF GOLF
An enlightened guide to
top courses and essential
gear, plus sage words from
PGA legend Gary Player
96
THREE PERFECT DAYS: QUITO
Exploring Ecuador’s up-and-coming mountain capital
WELCOME ABOARD
CEO LETTER
A word from Jeff Smisek
VOICES
A message to fl yers
CONNECTIONS
What’s new at United
HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • JUNE 2012 9
15
16
18

!
ABOUT THE
COVER:
Traditional
textiles on off er
at a market in
Otavalo, outside
Quito. Cover
photograph by
Karla Gachet and
Ivan Kashinsky;
this page, Danita
Delimont/
Getty Images
WRITE TO US: editorial@hemispheresmagazine.com
68 Jay St., Ste. 315, Brooklyn, NY 11201
DISPATCHES
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News and notes from
around the world
ROAD TRIP
Unleashing an ultra-rare
Ferrari on the Isle of Man
FOOD & DRINK
Fusion cuisine reaches new
heights in Taiwan
STAY
From Montana to Moscow,
the month’s hottest hotels
CULTURE
THE MONTH AHEAD
What to see, read and
listen to in June
GOODS
Psst—wanna buy a
$5 million watch?
WHAT TO WEAR
Miami turns up the heat
on street style
THE FAN
Beach volleyball star
Misty May-Treanor Treanor digs
deep for the London don Games
BRIGHT HT IDEAS
HOW IT’S DONE
A closer look k at one U.S.
college’s big power move
INDUSTRY NDUSTRY
The rise of “gamifi mifi cation,”
and why we e play along
10 JUNE 2012 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM
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Stalking g the elusive
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WHAT DO YOU THINK?
WRITE TO US! editorial@hemispheresmagazine.com
Hemispheres, 68 Jay St., Ste. 315, Brooklyn, NY 11201
SAM POLCER,
Hemispheres’ executive
editor, was suitably
impressed by all the
history and culture
when he traveled to
Ecuador for this month’s
cover story (“Three
Perfect Days: Quito,”
page 96), but the
delicious food is what
really blew him away.
“Between that and the
altitude, I’m surprised I
got anything done,” he
says. “All I wanted to do
was take a siesta.” His
fellow staff ers have not
off ered much sympathy.
Coming Out
Swinging
TOM CHIARELLA initially took up golf to escape
the writer’s life (hi ing the links helped him forget
a novel that didn’t sell), but as he went along,
he says, “I wanted more and more to write
about the sport, about the act of playing.” He’s
since profi led some of golf’s best players and
most redoubtable courses for such magazines
as Golf Digest and Esquire—for which he is now writer at large—and published
the essay collection Thursday’s Game. In this month’s links extravaganza [“The
Meaning of Golf,” page 88], Chiarella tackles sand traps with PGA legend Gary
Player, unearths holes that even the pros dread and off ers insights for golfers
of all stripes. As for the state of his own game, Chiarella says, “I still need to
appreciate what works for me, instead of eating myself up because I’m not a
long driver anymore—and never could hit a 3-iron.”
?
CONTRIBUTORS
RIA MICHELLE
is a fashion stylist,
blogger and “all-around
media whirlwind” living
in South Florida—which
made her a natural pick
to scout and shoot our
spread on Miami style
this month (“What to
Wear: Miami,” page 58).
Despite photographing
well-dressed citydwellers
everywhere
from New York to Los
Angeles, Michelle
reports that “the most
challenging place to
shoot street style was
on my home turf.”
RACHEL SLADE,
senior editor at Boston
magazine and editor of
Boston Home, has been
told she has an “elastic”
sense of rhythm (which
may be why she’s
working in journalism,
not fronting a band).
Yet that didn’t keep
her from venturing to
Africa to report on the
rebirth of Ethiojazz in its
native land (“The Ballad
of Addis Ababa,” page
82), where she also
developed a taste for
superfresh coff ee, lamb
tibs and watery beer.
EDITOR IN CHIEF Joe Keohane
EXECUTIVE EDITOR Sam Polcer
MANAGING EDITOR Jennifer L. Johnson
SENIOR EDITOR Jacqueline Detwiler
FASHION EDITOR Nino Bauti
ART DIRECTOR Christine Bower-Wright
ASSOCIATE ART DIRECTOR Jeff Quinn
PHOTO EDITOR Jessie Adler
CONTRIBUTING WRITERS
Jay Cheshes, Alyssa Giacobbe,
Michael Kaplan, Edward Lewine,
Adam K. Raymond, Cristina Rouvalis,
Grant Stoddard, Matt Thompson,
Chris Wright
CONTRIBUTING ARTISTS
Jeff rey Decoster, Peter James Field,
Dan McCoy, Alex Nabaum,
Peter Oumanski, Steve Stankiewicz
EXECUTIVE CREATIVE DIRECTOR
Michael Keating
U.S. EDITORIAL DIRECTOR
Orion Ray-Jones
Ink, 68 Jay St.,
Ste. 315, Brooklyn, NY 11201
Tel: +1 347-294-1220 Fax: +1 917-591-6247
editorial@hemispheresmagazine.com
hemispheresmagazine.com
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HEMISPHERES is produced monthly by Ink. All material is
strictly copyright and all rights are reserved. No part of this
publication may be reproduced in whole or part without the
prior written permission of the copyright holder. All prices
and data are correct at the time of publication. Opinions
expressed in Hemispheres are not necessarily those of the
Publisher or United Airlines, and United Airlines does not
accept any responsibility for advertising content. Neither
United, its subsidiaries nor affi liates guarantees the accuracy,
completeness or timeliness of, or otherwise endorses these
facts, views, opinions or recommendations, gives investment
advice, or advocates the purchase or sale of any security
or investment. You should always seek the assistance of a
professional for tax and investment advice. Any images are
supplied at the owner’s risk. Any mention of United Airlines
or the use of United Airlines logo by any advertiser in this
publication does not imply endorsement of that company or
its products or services by United Airlines.
12 JUNE 2012 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

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© 2012 United Air Lines, Inc. All rights reserved.
The Outperform Recognition Program
We’re excited to announce a new initiative called “The Outperform Recognition Program” that not
only rewards employees, but also our customers. Now, when a MileagePlus ® member receives
excellent customer service, that member can use the United mobile app to nominate the employee.
We’re rewarding employees with cash prizes each quarter, and the customers who nominated
them with United tickets and MileagePlus awards.
For complete information, Official Rules and details about the program, go to united.com/outperform.
Due to certain prohibitions in some countries, not all customers are eligible to win. Please check
the rules for specific eligibility.
Scan to download our app
NO PURCHASE NECESSARY TO ENTER OR WIN. A PURCHASE WILL NOT INCREASE YOUR CHANCES OF WINNING. VOID IN
CERTAIN COUNTRIES AND WHERE PROHIBITED BY LAW. Odds of winning depend on number of eligible entries received. Participants
must be eighteen years or older (or have reached the age of majority in their resident jurisdiction) as of the date of entry. The initial voting
period for the Sweepstakes will begin at 12:00 a.m. (U.S. Eastern Time) on June 1, 2012 and ends at 11:59 p.m. (Eastern Time) on
September 30, 2012. Future voting periods will begin on the first day and end on the last day of succeeding three month periods during
which the program is continued. Sponsored by United Air Lines, Inc.

Welcome aboard, and on behalf
of the more than 80,000 professional
men and women of
United, thanks for choosing to fl y with us
today. As we build the new United, we’re
focused on creating a Working Together
culture where our co-workers enjoy
coming to work and give good customer
service. We know that good service can
mean the diff erence between a great travel
experience and a bad travel experience,
and we’re commi ed to recognizing and
rewarding our co-workers when they do
an excellent job for you.
We’ve built a new service recognition
program called “The Outperform
Recognition Program” that rewards our
co-workers with quarterly cash prizes of
up to USD $50,000, and we want you to
help us identify which co-workers will
have a chance to win. If the co-worker you
recognize wins one of the 16 cash prizes in
CEO LETTER
Rewarding Good Service
connection with your nomination, you’ll
receive a prize as well. The customer whose
nomination is drawn as the first-prize
winner will win a voucher for a pair of
round-trip tickets, valid for fi rst-class U.S.
domestic or economy-class international
travel to anywhere that United fl ies. Other
customer prizes include frequent flyer
mileage awards.
All you have to do to participate in
the service recognition program is be a
MileagePlus member and use our mobile
app, available for your Apple or Android
device, to nominate eligible co-workers.
You can nominate up to five eligible
co-workers per quarter for helping you
at the airport, on the phone, on one of
our fl ights, or at any other point in your
experience with United. We’ll select 16
winning co-workers, and the corresponding
16 winning customers who submi ed
the winning nomination, randomly from
the pool of submissions each quarter. In
total, we will give away USD $125,000 in
quarterly cash prizes for co-workers.
For complete information, Offi cial Rules
and details about the program, see the
opposite page and go to www.united.com/
outperform.
Thanks again for choosing to fl y with
us, and thanks for helping us reward our
co-workers when they go the extra mile for
you. We appreciate your business and look
forward to seeing you again soon onboard
a United fl ight.
PRESIDENT AND CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER,
UNITED AIRLINES
HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • JUNE 2012 15

Sometimes one person can mean the
difference between rough travel
and smooth sailing. For United
customers on international flights,
pursers such as Jim Welk work to provide
the best possible travel experience. The
position of purser—basically a flight
attendant with special training—goes
back to Pan Am, which sold its Pacific
Division to United in 1985.
“Pursers came from a very old-school
thought of having one person in charge
who is going to make sure that things are
handled well. The purser carried the purse
and paid for things like fuel,” Welk explains.
“I have safety and work responsibilities,
but being a purser takes it up another
VOICES
Holding the Strings
For Purser Jim Welk, being in control means creating a great
customer experience BY A. AVERYL RE
level, in that I make sure everything is
done to the standard that United has set.”
Welk fi rst fell in love with travel during
a four-week trip with a leadership group in
high school. While pursuing his bachelor’s
degree in psychology at Baldwin-Wallace
College, he was hired by United and began
training in May 1978. From there, he never
looked back in a career that, he says, has
given him lots of opportunities to learn
more about the things he loves.
“When you get the travel bug, you
become truly interested in people and
what motivates them,” he says. “In this job,
there are always new people to meet and
something new down the road. Flying is
a continuing experience of learning—for
instance, understanding which facial
expressions and hand gestures are considered
polite when speaking to someone
from Japan.”
But the learning, Welk says, isn’t just
about acquiring knowledge. For him, it’s
also providing a way to “Fly the Friendly
Skies of United,” the company’s slogan
when he joined the airline and one that
stays in his mind to this day. Learning
about people, their customs and their
expectations allows Welk to help customers
feel welcome on United’s planes and
ensure that their fl ying experience goes
as smoothly as possible.
The job isn’t without its challenges,
though. “I want everything to be its best
and to appear seamless from one transition
to another, but we often have time
challenges in ge ing all the crews on the
same page,” he says. “There is a lot to do to
make sure that, when it all comes together
and it’s time to present United Airlines to
that fi rst customer onboard, everything
is ready to go.”
Another challenge that Welk and his
crew face isn’t related to planes or product—it’s
within themselves, brought on
by taking off in one time zone and landing
in another 14 hours later, and still having a
job to do. That’s something Welk knows a
bit about: He earned a master’s degree in
regulatory biology from Cleveland State
University with a thesis on circadian
rhythms and the eff ect of time changes on
workers such as auto-plant shi employees,
police offi cers and, yes, fl ight a endants.
As for the most rewarding part of his
job, Welk says it’s probably “learning to
be in the moment, whether it’s meeting
colleagues or customers. I do things most
people never get to do, such as walking
outside a temple in Japan, with all the
cherry blossoms in bloom.”
Moreover, traveling around the world
helped shape the person he has become. “I
grew up reading about all these people and
places and customs, and then I got to experience
them,” he says. “If I didn’t have this
job, I don’t think I would have developed as
I did in understanding people and learning
to be empathetic to anyone and everyone.”
As much as he loves his work, though,
Welk says his leisure time means not getting
on airplanes. “I vacation vicariously in
my job, so during my time off I like to be at
home with family and friends.”
16 JUNE 2012 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

Food
With Flair
Enhanced premium-cabin
dining options
BEGINNING JUNE 1, United is making a significant
investment in onboard dining by
introducing new menu options in our United
Global First℠ and United BusinessFirst®
cabins on international fl ights. The changes
come after many months of study, tastetesting
sessions by expert panels and menu
design input from our Congress of Chefs.
Our goal is to deliver an enhanced, consistent
experience for customers while still off ering a
variety of options. At United, we are building
the world’s leading airline, and these dining
enhancements are aimed at providing our
customers a great infl ight experience with
more of what they want.
Each month, our customers will be off ered
their choice of four high-quality, restaurantstyle
entrées, including a selection of beef,
chicken, fi sh and vegetarian-style pasta. To
give customers even more variety, we will be
rotating our menu options more frequently
throughout the year.
United Global First customers will dine
on multiple courses served from an elegant
presentation cart, gourmet soups with
CONNECTIONS
garnishes, and indulgent petit fours. United
BusinessFirst customers will also enjoy an
elegant primary meal cart service.
Customers who already enjoy the dining
options available in our premium cabins will
be pleased to know that not everything is
changing. We will continue off ering freshly
prepared salads and made-to-order ice cream
sundaes with a choice of six toppings. Also
still available are our signature warm nuts
accompanied by your favorite premium
spirit or specialty beer, or a glass of one of
our award-winning wines.
Premium after-dinner liqueurs, worldclass
port wine and freshly brewed coff ee will
complete a memorable dining experience for
even the most discerning palate.
Printed menus onboard will provide fl exible
dining options, allowing customers the
chance to create a palate-pleasing experience
that’s all their own.
To learn more about dining options available
on United and United Express, please
navigate to the Infl ight Services section under
the Travel Information tab on united.com.
ASK THE PILOT
With Captain Mike Bowers
Q: Aside from the skill
of the pilot, what keeps
a plane from sliding
when landing on a
runway that’s wet from
rain or snow?
A: The aircraft itself
provides some help.
All of our planes are
equipped with an antiskid
system that senses
when a wheel stops
rotating and automatically
releases the brake
pressure from it. We also
have autobrakes, which
allow a pilot to select the
desired amount of deceleration
for each landing.
Additionally, there are
“ground spoilers”—large
panels on the top of the
wing—that rise up on
touchdown, taking lift
away from the wing and
placing more weight on
the tires to increase the
traction. Throughout
the landing, of course,
the pilot is controlling
the direction of the
aircraft by using the
foot pedals to adjust the
tail rudders, as well as
determining the level
of automation required
to keep the plane safely
on the centerline of the
runway regardless of the
weather conditions.
Do you have a question for
Captain Bowers? Write him
at askthepilot@united.com.
18 JUNE 2012 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

Leading the Way.
Every day, patients facing the challenge of fighting cancer come to the Stanford Cancer Center for
help, hope, and healing. Recognized for advanced clinical care, scientific research and technology
breakthroughs, we are focused on finding new and better ways to fight cancer. As a National Cancer
Institute designated cancer center and one of the best hospitals in America for cancer treatment according
to U.S. News & World Report, Report, the Stanford Stanford Cancer Center is at the forefront of high quality patient care.
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DISPATCHES
DESTINATIONS ADVENTURES FOOD & DRINK
THE WORLD AT A GLANCE
ILLUSTRATION BY KELLI ANDERSON • JUNE 2012 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM
21

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IT’S PERHAPS THE most iconic
piece of furniture in the galaxy:
Captain Kirk’s command chair. And
now the macho Naugahyde throne
of the USS Enterprise is beaming
back from the farthest reaches of
space to give us a glimpse of the
future—or at least, the future as we
used to imagine it.
“There’s a little bit of nostalgia
for the future that didn’t happen,”
says Brooks Peck, the curator of
“Icons of Science Fiction,” an extensive
permanent exhibition opening
this month at Seattle’s Frank
Gehry–designed EMP Museum.
“It’s strange that science fi ction can
be nostalgic, but it is.”
Although the “Lost in Space”
robot and the Star Wars Death Star
haven’t arrived yet, Lieutenant
Uhura’s mod uniform from
“Star Trek” is already on display,
for the fi rst time ever, along with
her uncomfortable-looking earpiece.
There’s Yoda’s walking
stick, Darth Vader’s light saber,
a Dalek from “Doctor Who,”
Neo’s trench coat from The Matrix
GLOBETROTTING
BACK TO THE FUTURE
Taking stock of sci-fi
predictions at a new exhibit
Reloaded—even animation cels
from “The Powerpuff Girls”—all
organized around some of sci-fi ’s
more popular “what if” questions:
What if we were enslaved by
robots? What if we could explore
the stars? What if we could design
our children?
SEATTLE
BY JON MARCUS
The world might not have turned
out the way we thought, Peck says,
but that’s not to say that the reality
isn’t just as interesting. Many of
the items in the exhibit come from
the collection of EMP founder
Paul Allen, who as co-founder of
Microsoft is someone who obviously
played a major role in how our
future ultimately did unfold.
“There are two computers in this
room that are more powerful than
anything on ‘Star Trek,’” Peck says,
nodding toward a pair of cellphones.
“The future is just diff erent
than we expected.”
HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • JUNE 2012 • ILLUSTRATIONS BY PETER OUMANSKI 23

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NEW YORK CITY
ONLINE COURSES
David Bouley’s chef’s table brings
Skype to the dining room
Eight dinner guests assembled around
a huge petrifi ed-wood table turn their
a ention to a 65-inch TV. The boyish face
of Rodolphe Le Meunier, un affi neur de
fromage, or expert cheese ager, appears
onscreen. “’Ere we are!” he announces.
Le Meunier, who is in Tours, France,
smiles at the camera, walks to a shelf
stacked with rounds of cheese, picks
one and takes a deep sniff . “This one is
fantastique. It’s very fruity. Very good.”
This isn’t a private screening of
“No Reservations”—it’s Chef’s Pass, a
21st-century chef’s table as envisioned
by New York culinary star David Bouley.
Where other top toques extract extraordinary
sums just to let guests sit near
the kitchen, Bouley ups the ante. For
$550 a head, Chef’s Pass off ers 10 courses
(with wine) in a private dining room at
Bouley Restaurant and unrestricted
access to its namesake. But for hard-core
foodies, the real prize is what Bouley
calls “rare interactive dialogues” with
the world’s fi nest food artisans via
PARIS PARI
Skype—for an additional $2,000.
With close-cropped white hair, bright
eyes and a wry smile, Bouley personally
prepares the dishes, including sea urchin
bound in dashi terrine and velvety tuna
with wild mushrooms and truffl es.
In between courses, he expounds on
subjects as varied as John Rockefeller’s
art collection, Lou Reed’s dessert habits
and the health properties of kuzuko, a
tasteless Japanese starch that sells for
$40 a pound.
At midnight, fi ve hours a er the meal
began, several guests cry uncle, begging
Bouley to skip to dessert. He obliges,
but before they do eventually fi le out,
he ladles on a fi nal indulgence: a tour
of the expanded kitchen. Le Meunier,
meanwhile, is off the hook—it’s 6 a.m.
where he is. “I’m having a glass of wine
and going back to bed,” he says, before
signing off . —JANE BLACK
SPREAD THIN IN NEW ZEALAND, A BELOVED FOODSTUFF IS IN SHORT SUPPLY
CHRISTCHURCH, NEW ZEALAND • After an
earthquake shut down New Zealand’s
only Marmite factory last year, a new
term was coined: “Marmageddon.” Pierre
van Heerden, general manager of Sanitarium,
the company that churns out 240
HIGH HIG PRAISE
A SUP SUPERSTAR SOPRANO GIVES THE CITY OF LIGHT A STANDING OVATION
“Oh, you’ve y got to check out that hair behind you,” says Sondra Radvanovsky,
novsk over sea bass at L’Avenue. The ’do is indeed a marvel, but it’s not
the only on dramatic coiff ure in this tony lunch spot, attractive both for its
proximity proxim to the Théâtre des Champs-Élysées—where Radvanovsky is
performing perfo Verdi tonight—and for stylish patrons capable of providing
an impromptu i
lunchtime fashion show.
Radvanovsky R
certainly gets plenty of opportunity to scope out
the locals in fashionable cities. The 43-year-old star of New York’s
Metropolitan Metr Opera performed in Cyrano de Bergerac in Madrid last
tons of the yeast-extract product annually,
has recommended that consumers
conserve what they have by putting
it on warm toast, because “it spreads
easier and goes a li le bit further.” Even
Prime Minister John Key has weighed in,
month and will appear in the title
role of Puccini’s Tosca in Vienna
this month.
Sometimes, however, all Radvanovsky
wants is some peace and
quiet. “Anytime I feel crazed while
I’m here, I go to the Palais-Royal
or Jardin du Luxembourg and just
stand in the middle of it and not
hear any noise. It’s brilliant,” she
says, before going on to make a
list of her favorite spots in Paris.
It includes Versailles, the Hôtel
de Ville and, last on the list of 17,
“opera houses!”—adorned with an
exclamation point as if to prove it’s
not merely an afterthought. (No. 1
is a bakery on the Left Bank whose
name she can’t recall.)
Yet her aff ection for the City of
Light is not unqualifi ed. “You’re
walking down the sidewalk, and
there’s a group of three people
walking toward you. God forbid
they move, right?” she says. “I
have body-checked so many
people in Paris. If they’re not going
to move, I’m not going to move
either. But then you have this
beautiful architecture, so I forgive
them.” —LIZ GARRIGAN
admi ing he has no problem switching
to Vegemite, the Australian-produced
rival product. No telling yet what eff ect
that will have on Key’s standing with
voters, who re-elected him in a historic
landslide last year. —SAM POLCER
24 JUNE 2012 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

“I heard this one the other day:
What do you get when you
cross a mountain climber with
a mosquito?” asks Matt Parker,
as he idly works a Rubik’s cube.
“Nothing.” He pauses for eff ect,
rotating the top layer. “You can’t
cross a scaler with a vector.”
Helen Arney isn’t impressed.
“See, this is the kind of elitist
comedy we want to avoid,” she
groans. (Not that Arney is one
to talk: She’s practicing a song
about particle physics on her
ukulele.) Arney and Parker,
along with a third performer,
Steve Mould, are backstage at
London’s Bloomsbury Theatre
for their Festival of the Spoken
Nerd, a “comedy night for the
insatiably sci-curious.” Mould
adds, “We want to mix science
and arts in an accessible way.”
It’s an understandable concern:
Parker is a mathematician at Queen
Mary, University of London; Arney
graduated with a degree in physics
THE TRUCK
LENGTH: 300 FEET
WIDTH: 32 FEET
NUMBER OF WHEELS: 176
LONDON
SMART
ALECKS
SCIENCE NERDS GET
THE LAST LAUGH
from Imperial College; Mould studied at
Oxford before turning his “Guerilla Science”
road show into a fi xture on the U.K. festival
circuit. Yet things seem to have worked out
so far, with the trio having already appeared
THE ROCK
WEIGHT: 340 TONS
HEIGHT: 21½ FEET
GLOBETROTTING || DISPATCHES
at London’s Theatre Royal
Haymarket and Shakespeare’s
Globe, the Edinburgh
Fringe and the Green Man
music festival in Wales.
And they’re by no means
alone. Big-name British comedians
Ricky Gervais and Chris
Addison have both performed
shows about science, while
fellow comic Robin Ince has
teamed up with physicist
Brian Cox for the irreverent
and popular BBC radio show
The Infi nite Monkey Cage.
“There’s been a sea
change,” Arney says. “People
now gather round the water
cooler and talk about the
wonders of the universe.
Today, particle physics is
something you discuss at
the pub.” Parker, nodding in
agreement, puts down the
Rubik’s cube—each side now
a solid color, of course.
—MATTHEW LEE
MONSTER PIECE AN ART MUSEUM MOVES HEAVEN AND EARTH FOR AN UNUSUALLY LARGE INSTALLATION
LOS ANGELES • Six years ago, Rick Albrecht,
heavy-haul logistics supervisor for
transportation firm Emmert International,
got a call from the Los Angeles
County Museum of Art. The museum
had, as he puts it, an “odd” request.
“We’ve done silos, missiles, a hotel, the
Hubble Telescope and [Howard Hughes’
plane] the Spruce Goose,” Albrecht says,
“but a rock? Of course I said, ‘Yeah, we
can move that.’”
Fast-forward to earlier this year, when
a two-story megalith was selected from
a quarry and driven across three counties
to the museum, where it eventually will
be placed atop a 456-foot-long, 15-footdeep
concrete-lined slot on LACMA’s
campus. Artist Michael Heizer intends
for the installation, titled Levitated
Mass and scheduled to open this month,
to “speak to the expanse of art history,”
from ancient works in stone to cu ingedge
feats of engineering. For the
movers, though, the piece has already
made a signifi cant impression: “It’s been
a paperwork nightmare,” Albrecht says.
—JAMES BARTLETT
LOS
ANGELES RIVERSIDE,
CALIF.
THE JOURNEY
DISTANCE: 110 MILES
TIME: 11 NIGHTS
SPEED: 5-8 MPH
HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • JUNE 2012 25

ROAD TRIP
MAN POWER
Braving a British isle’s sharp turns and mischievous sprites
in the rare Ferrari 360 Challenge Stradale
BY CINDY-LOU DALE
ISLE OF MAN, UNITED KINGDOM
Nailed to the front door of Aaron House, the
stately Victorian inn where I’d been staying, was
a hurriedly spliced wooden cross bound with
wool. As I studied it, clearly perplexed, the
proprietor appeared beside me. “It’s the crosh
cuirn,” he said. “We islanders fi x one inside
our front doors to keep the wicked fairies
out.” Then, as an a erthought, he
26 JUNE 2012 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM
JONATHAN DALE

DISPATCHES || ROAD TRIP
picked up something from the
mantel and handed it to me. “You best be
taking this lucky sheep bone with you if
you want safe passage across the island,
what with that fancy car you’ll be driving.”
“That fancy car” was none other than
the rare Ferrari 360 Challenge Stradale,
the street-legal version of the 360 Modena,
Ferrari’s extensively reengineered track
car. Only 1,278 of them were manufactured
between 1999 and 2005, making the Stradale
highly sought a er by collectors. The
island that I’d be traversing in it (under the
auspices of my lucky sheep bone) was the
Isle of Man, famed for its indigenous Manx
Loaghtan sheep, sneaky and malevolent
sprites and, most important, the Isle of
Man Tourist Trophy, one of the world’s
most prestigious motorcycle races, which
takes place every year from late May to
early June.
From my inn in Port St. Mary, at the
island’s southern tip, I had an easy 27-mile
trip via rental car to Ramsey, in the north,
along a road tacked to the serrated edge of
the island’s east coast. I was to meet Ma
Honeyse , my Ferrari man, in Ramsey—
specifi cally, at the start of the A3, whose
stretch from Ramsey to Kirk Michael
forms part of the race circuit.
While waiting for Honeysett at the
rendezvous, I contemplated my surroundings:
standing stones le by the Vikings,
protruding from the earth like daggers;
Celtic forts that predate Christ; ancient
burial sites that have frowned
over the valleys for 4,000 years.
A distant rumbling disturbed
my train of thought.
It came again, closer: the
distinctive blatting made by
downshifting the gears of a
supercar. This was followed
by an epic wall of noise as
the Stradale broadsided around a bend
and came to an urgent stop beside me,
assuming an aggressive stance. Honeyse
stepped out and, a er the customary
exchange of pleasantries, gestured to the
driver’s seat. I obliged, folding myself in
and bolting down the shoulder harnesses,
the whole process carrying overtones of
space travel. I dug the lucky sheep bone
out of my pocket and placed it on the
center console.
As opposed to starting the engine, the
only function of the Stradale’s key is to
prime the electronics for ignition. Key
inserted, I prodded the prominent red
starter bu on on the console, and immediately
brought the V-8 to life. A er a noisy
throat-clearing, the engine quieted down
to a purposeful rumble and awaited orders.
I tentatively touched the accelerator—
HISTORICAL LURE
From left, rolling
countryside on the
Isle of Man; the castlelike
Tower of Refuge,
situated off the island’s
east coast and built in
1832 to provide shelter
to any mariners caught
in a storm
BOARDING PASS Britain’s Isle of Man off ers a
unique side trip for visitors to London, which United
serves with daily departures from six of its U.S.
hubs; the fabled island is even closer for travelers to
Manchester, served by daily nonstop fl ights through
New York/Newark and Washington Dulles. Go to
united.com to see fl ight schedules and book your trip.
and took off with a velocity seldom seen
outside a Road Runner cartoon.
Despite the Stradale’s lean, carbon fi ber–
muscled body and delicate aluminum bone
structure, my plan to stretch its legs along
the mountainous road heading west to
Kirk Michael gave way to a bronco ride.
Approaching 6,000 rpm, its rumble became
a howl that grew in intensity until, at 8,000
rpm, my hearing began to distort. At this
point, I eyed the “race” bu on on the console,
but Honeyse ’s glare dissuaded me.
“That,” he yelled, pointing accusingly at the
bu on, “will shake up your internal organs
and rearrange your brain.”
I decelerated to meet a sharp turn and
the car released a pulse-racing series of
what sounded like explosions, startling a
fl ock of peace-seeking tourists convened
at a pedestrian crossing. After a
“That,” he yelled, pointing to the “race” bu on
on the console, “will shake up your internal
organs and rearrange your brain.”
28 JUNE 2012 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM
CINDY-LOU DALE (LANDSCAPE); PATTY ATHERTON/ALAMY (TOWER OF REFUGE)

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DISPATCHES || ROAD TRIP
UNITED
KINGDOM
ISLE OF
MAN
quick stop at a tea shop to quiet
the nerves, I regretfully turned the car
over to Honeyse and climbed into my
lowly rental. Still vibrating like a tuning
fork, I headed back toward the inn.
En route, I found myself approaching
Ballalonna Glen and its famed Fairy
Bridge, so named for the creatures
reputed to live beneath it. The sight
of the quaint structure called to mind
something my innkeeper had told me:
“The old book says that should you cross
the Fairy Bridge without saying so much
as laa mie (good day) to them, you cannot
be sure of a safe and pleasant journey.”
I considered shouting a greeting
out of the driver’s window (a common
KIRK
MICHAEL
FERRARI 360 CHALLENGE
STRADALE
THE BELLS AND WHISTLES
INTERIOR: It gleams
with carbon fi ber panels,
and the dashboard and
seats are covered in
soft-touch black and red
Alcantara. The fl oor is
bare, apart from a coat of
black paint and a couple
of rubber mats.
PORT
ST. MARY
ENGINE:
Mid-mounted
3.6-liter V-8
ONCHAN
RAMSEY
practice among racers), but thought better
of it. Besides, I had my lucky sheep
bone, I fi gured, before realizing that, no,
I had le that in the Stradale. As if on
cue, a gust swept into the car and blew
my map out of the footwell and right
into my face; the paper fell away just in
time to reveal a fast-approaching ditch.
My driving skills honed by the Stradale,
I managed to avoid it and return safely
home—though, I should add, with the
windows up.
CINDY-LOU DALE, a writer based in
southeast England, thinks there might be
something to that fairy talk after all.
PRICE: Starts at
around $155,000
FUEL EFFICIENCY:
11 mpg city, 16 highway
PERFORMANCE:
It delivers 425 hp and can do
zero to 62 in 4.1 seconds, with
a top speed of 186 mph.
30 JUNE 2012 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM
MAP BY JEFF QUINN; JONATHAN DALE (FERRARI)

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FOOD & DRINK
DISPATCHES || GLOBETROTTING
EVERYBODY IN!
What do you get if you
mix Taiwanese food with
dishes from Japan, China,
Cambodia, Italy and the
Netherlands? You get ...
Taiwanese food.
BY CHANEY KWAK
AND JOSHUA SAMUEL BROWN
IT’S WHAT’S INSIDE
THAT COUNTS
Tofu stuff ed with
curry paste and
pumpkin at Chamkar
Sca ered around the world are those tiny pieces
of land that everyone wants. Whether it’s because
they have more natural resources or off er muchneeded
ports, each one changes hands pre y much every time the local power
dynamic shi s. While this can be exasperating for inhabitants, it does tend to
create some of the world’s most interesting food—and nowhere is this more
true than on the island of Taiwan.
Take signature dishes like ôáchien (oyster omelets) and bawan (meatball dumplings
wrapped in sweet potato dough), for example. They represent thousands of
years of Austro-Polynesian tribal heritage (think roasted wild pig, oysters, yams,
tropical spices) tempered by early Dutch and Spanish colonial infl uences and
combined with several regional varieties of mainland Chinese food. Throw in
a few fried prawns and some raw fi sh and serve it with a measure of Japanese
minimalism, and you have a delightfully haphazard composite cuisine that
takes the classic island “if we’ve got it, we’ll use it” ethos to a whole new level.
Almost anywhere you eat on Taiwan, you can make a sport of identifying the
infl uences in each dish that comes your way. At Shi-Yang Culture
32 JUNE 2012 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

Restaurant on
Yangming Mountain
outside Taipei—where
the prix fixe menu
includes sticky rice
OUT OF THEIR
SHELLS The
classic Taiwanese
dish ôáchien, or
oyster omelet
cakes with sun-dried mullet roe, and prawn
and lotus root in homemade berry-lavender
vinegar—you’re looking at Taiwanese
tribal food fused with traditional kaiseki,
a Japanese multicourse dinner. At night
markets like Taipei’s popular Shilin, small
plates called xiao chi contain elements
from the eight major Chinese traditions
(Sichuan and Hunan being the most well
known among Westerners), along with
local seafood and sauces made from
ginger, kumquats and pickled vegetables
borrowed from Hakka cuisine. These
markets are possibly the only places on
earth where you can find stinky tofu,
pork sausages wrapped in rice sausages,
and fried chicken (see page 36), all within
mere feet of one another.
“Taiwan is a paradise for food lovers,
with an amazing diversity of tastes at
all kinds of prices,” says Nicolas Devaux,
owner of Chamkar, a simple eatery that
elevates Cambodian recipes gleaned from
Devaux’s years in Siem Reap by adding
local produce from a nearby garden. His
dishes—like tofu stuff ed with curry paste
and pumpkin and topped with green peppercorn
sauce—are proof enough of that.
So what other culinary traditions mesh
well with Taiwanese food? Italian, for one.
“I was catering for a group that included
a woman from one of Taiwan’s aboriginal
tribes,” says Evan Shaw, head chef of Hui
Liu, a vegetarian restaurant and tea shop
in Taipei. “I wanted to make something
special, so I created a vegetable noodle
dish called Aboriginal Pesto Pasta using
ziciong,” a Taiwanese herb. The stab at
indigenous Taiwanese-Italian food won
Shaw a lot of fans, so naturally his next step
was to do what chefs in Taiwan do best:
start fi nding new things to mix it with.
DISPATCHES || FOOD & DRINK
FREE SPIRIT
At the trendy Taipei cocktail bar Fourplay,
there is no menu. Patrons simply tell
bartender Allen Cheng (above) what
they’re craving, and he creates a beverage
to their tastes. We asked him to concoct
something using the Taiwanese sorghum
wine known as kaoliang.
THE ICE BOAT
INGREDIENTS
› Lemon wedge
› Orange wedge
› 1 oz. Kinmen
kaoliang
› 1½ oz. vanilla
liqueur
› 1 oz. lemon juice
› 2/3 oz. honey syrup
› 1 oz. absinthe
› Rosemary stalk
1. Place the lemon and
orange wedges in the
bottom of a Boston shaker
and add the kaoliang, vanilla
liqueur, lemon juice and
honey syrup. Muddle.
2. Add ice, and shake to
combine.
3. Strain into a rocks glass over
ice. Top with absinthe and
the rosemary stalk.
4. Light the stalk on fi re. Serve.
34 JUNE 2012 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

DISPATCHES || FOOD & DRINK
THE SHAPE
OF THINGS
This Taiwanese chef
cuts a fi ne fi gure
CHEF CHAO-LIN CHEN is an artist by any
measure, whether he’s creating gaojha,
a spicy Yilanese dish made of chicken,
shrimp, pork and cornstarch, or the intricate
carrot dragon he can carve in less
than nine minutes to go with it. Chen’s
gaojha has been known to draw diners
from as far as the capital city of Taipei
to his little restaurant, Doo Hsiao Yueh,
on Taiwan’s windswept northeast coast—
but it’s his de carving that’s made him
world-famous.
In 2008, Chen and his carving team
brought home a gold medal from the
prestigious Food & Hotel Asia Imperial
Challenge in Singapore. Many of Chen’s
creations were subsequently included
in his book, Doo Hsiao Yueh I-Lan Feast
Taiwan Cuisine, which showcases
both dishes and sculptures from the
restaurant. As Chen flips through the
pages, astounding tableaux are revealed:
A painstakingly detailed carrot phoenix
appears in fl ight next to a plate of minced
pork cakes; a bamboo-shoot swordsman
does ba le with a dish of stewed carp. The
ones that win awards are even more elaborate,
like the green winter melon Chen
transformed into a three-dimensional
scene featuring a Chinese junk.
“Winter melons are great for carving
because their shape and size
allows allows for for serious creativity,” Chen
says. “The biggest I ever carved
was 25 kilograms.” And what did
he do with it? “I turned it into a
massive dragon.” —J.S.B.
A CUT ABOVE
One of chef
Chao-lin Chen’s
carrot dragons
36
Angry Birds
Taste buds, beware: The fried chicken in Taiwan’s night
markets isn’t as mild as the Colonel’s
Fried chicken might be, literally, the hottest thing in Taiwan right
now. In a place with no shortage of fresh, piping-hot street food,
deep-fried chicken has lately reigned as the king of xiao chi, the
Taiwanese incarnation of tapas or fi nger food that is particularly
popular in night markets. But where fried chicken in the American
South tends toward the salty and crisp, this version has scant
breading and a kick like a mule.
To make it, stall owners coat wide, thin fi llets of white meat in
sweet-potato starch and the fi ve famous spices: fennel, clove, cinnamon,
star anise and mouth-numbing Sichuan pepper. After a
quick dip in the fryer, the chicken emerges cereal-crunchy on the
outside and succulent inside. Every bite is sweet, salty, bitter, sour
FRUITS OF REASON
Giving lumpy apples
a good name me
When it comes mes to the
world’s supply pply of strikingly
textured red fruit,
Southeast Asia got
the lion’s share hare
(for instance, ce,
compare the he
serrated dragon ragon
fruit and hirsute rambutan
with, say, an apple). In Taiwan,
the produce p of note is the pine
cone–shaped “Buddha “Buddh head”
fruit, a pawpaw relative relat with
sweet, creamy, creamy custard-
like fl esh.
Also known
as sugar su apple
or sweetsop, s
Buddha Bu head
fruit fru is a popu-
lar off o ering on
PHOTO KOONISUTRA/CREATIVE CREDIT TK - REMOVE IF EMPTY COMMONS (CHICKEN)

FRY-BY-NIGHT
Left and below, Hot
Star chicken heats up
Shilin night market
and spicy, covering each of the fi ve
traditional Chinese tastes.
Waiting in a long line for chicken
at Taipei’s Shilin night market, Steven
Huang, a student from Kaohsiung,
attributes the dish’s popularity to
the odd-hour cravings of college kids.
“You can find fried chicken at any
time, anywhere in Taiwan,” he says.
But is it popular because it’s everywhere,
or is it everywhere because
it’s popular? That, says Huang, is a
“chicken or the egg” question. —C.K.
BOARDING PASS Get your Taiwanese
culinary adventure started with United,
which off ers myriad service options to
Taipei. We connect through Tokyo Narita
from eight U.S. gateway cities—including
our hubs in New York/Newark, Chicago,
Washington Dulles, Houston, L.A. and
San Francisco—as well as from Seoul,
Singapore and Bangkok. To get details
and book your fl ight, go to united.com.
shrines and altars, especially during
religious festivals like Chinese New
Year. A major cash crop for Taiwan, it
can be found ripe, peeled and seeded
in the island’s famous night markets,
while most grocery stands proff er the
unripe version, which is dull green
and the size of a grapefruit. Once
the Buddha head fruit reaches peak
condition, however, you’ll want to eat
it quickly. As its namesake might say,
the window in which a sugar apple is
at its best is fl eeting. —J.S.B.
HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • JUNE 2012
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McKendrick’s
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Your next great journey is calling

Your next great journey is calling

THIS
MONTH’S
HOTTEST
HOTELS
BACKSTORY: Paws Up is a
working ca le ranch as well
as a luxury resort, but until recently
this land was all hooves and no
haute. A er Paws Up was rated one
of Montana’s top Black Angus seed
stock operations in 2003, the owners
began building the high-end resort
that stands here now.
WHAT YOU’LL FIND JUST
OUTSIDE: Mountains, trees
and rivers. Paws Up sits on 37,000
acres of Montana wilderness.
Beyond that lies ... more wilderness.
AMAZING AMENITY:
The Saddle Club is the state’s
largest private equestrian center,
where guests can hone their riding
skills under the watchful eye of
THE RESORT
AT PAWS UP
GREENOUGH, MONT.
expert trainers. The same horses
that prance around there can also
be taken out into the fi elds and
ridden on a ca le drive.
WHAT’S NEW: The tents at
Pinnacle Camp, which opened
just last summer, are lavish setups
outfi ed with actual beds and en
suite bathrooms with heated fl oors.
HOT PLATE: Mushroomcrusted
elk loin with steel-cut
oat porridge, smoked kohlrabi and
dried-cherry demi-glace at Pomp,
one of the two on-site restaurants
here. Sure, it sounds like something
a city slicker would order, but
the silky-smooth elk and hearty
porridge make this spread ideal for
hungry ranch hands.
STAY
HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • JUNE 2012 41

DISPATCHES || STAY
MOSCOW
ARARAT
PARK HYATT
HOTEL
ROOM WITH A VIEW: The Presidential Suite is as luxe as it gets—crystal
chandeliers, intricate carvings, four-poster king bed, dining room table
for eight—and, at 774 square feet, it’s one of the biggest suites in Moscow.
But the view of the city is even bigger.
WHAT YOU’LL FIND JUST OUTSIDE: The famed Bolshoi Theatre is
next door, and within walking distance you’ll discover Red Square, the
Kremlin, St. Basil’s Cathedral, Lenin’s tomb and TSUM and GUM,
Moscow’s largest luxury department stores.
UNEXPECTED TREAT: Goodbye, plastic hotel-room coff eemakers; hello,
swanky Illy Francis Francis espresso machines.
WHAT’S NEW: Makeovers for all 211 guest rooms and the lobby of this
9-year-old property will be complete by the end of the summer, with
custom-designed furniture and blown-glass light fi xtures, oak-andmirror-lined
bathrooms and fl oor-to-ceiling wood paneling.
SIGNATURE COCKTAIL: A Russian Standard Imperia vodka martini at the
Conservatory Lounge and Bar on the 10th fl oor is a good place to start.
The Driskill
AUSTIN,
BACKSTORY: A
TEXAS
Romanesque Austin
landmark, the Driskill was
built in 1886 by ca le baron
Jesse Driskill, who was ruined by
a drought just two years later and
had to sell it. Its lobby was the site
of the fi rst interstate phone call,
in 1899, and the hotel itself served
as Lyndon Johnson’s re-election
headquarters in 1964.
ROOM WITH A VIEW: The plush
Governor’s Suite has a full patio
providing a high vantage of Austin’s
rambunctious Sixth Street, a.k.a. the
“Live Music Capital of the World.”
WHAT YOU’LL FIND JUST OUTSIDE:
Revelers and live music, naturally.
BEST PLACE TO HANG OUT: The
Driskill Bar is expansive but feels
cozy, with leather couches, tin
ceilings and well-curated Western
touches such as The Widowmaker, a
bronze sculpture of a cowboy taking
aim at a runaway horse dragging off
his friend.
SIGNATURE COCKTAIL: Thanks to its
bat-shaped blackberry-and-hibiscus
garnish, the vodka-based Brazos
Brasiliensis Batini is a repeat winner
of Austin’s annual Batini Contest,
which honors the bats that live under
the Congress Avenue Bridge.
42 JUNE 2012 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

© 2012 United Air Lines, Inc. All rights reserved.
Your “go-to” app
when you’re on the go.
Make our app your
one-stop travel center.
Scan this QR code for more information.
The United app is like a travel toolkit. You can book flights. Check in and store your
Mobile Boarding Pass. Even see your flight status, including departure gate, seat map
and upgrade priority list. It’s one app with many applications.

ERICA BOHM, HOUSTON TOWER (FROM THE CITYSCAPES SERIES), 2009. IMAGE COURTESY THE MISSION PROJECTS
culture
THE
MONTH
AHEAD
ARTS MEDIA EVENTS
High Art
Chicago plays host
to an exhibit with
lo y ambitions
Orson Welles famously wrote
that “the enemy of art is
the absence of limitations.”
Nowhere is that more true than
in architecture, where overcoming
the mother of all limitations,
gravity, has led to some
seriously stunning masterpieces.
This month, the home of the
fi rst skyscraper, Chicago,
celebrates the struggle to build
to the heavens in “Skyscraper:
Art and Architecture Against
Gravity” at the Museum of
Contemporary Art. The exhibition
includes Yin Xiuzhen’s
“Portable City” series of model
skylines in suitcases; abstract
“skyscrapers” made out of sheet
plastic or newspapers; and
otherworldly photos in which
buildings resemble computer
motherboards, portals and sci-fi
planets. june 30
HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • JUNE 2012 45

culture || THE MONTH AHEAD
Road Tested
Riding shotgun with a rock legend
In Neil Young Journeys, a new documentary by Jonathan
Demme, the two-time Rock and Roll Hall of Fame inductee
reveals how he decides if a song is up to snuff . “I can tell if I like
the music,” he says from behind the wheel of a black ’56 Crown
Victoria, “by listening to it in a car.”
It’s fi ing, then, that Demme should choose to anchor his third
Young concert fi lm in the 85-mile drive from the folk rocker’s
hometown of Omemee, Ontario, to Toronto for the last two
nights of his 2011 world tour. Watching it feels like you’re taking
a run to the 7-Eleven with your uncle, as Young points out his
former haunts. At one point in the fi lm, he recounts the time an
older neighborhood kid convinced him to eat tar off the road.
“That,” he says with a wry smile, “was the beginning of my close
relationship with cars.” june 29
Dirty Lies
and Statistics
Economist Dan Ariely,
the man behind the
mind-bending bestseller
Predictably Irrational, is back
with The (Honest) Truth About
Dishonesty, a surprising look at
why we lie and what keeps us
honest. Here’s one of his characteristically
clever experiments.
1. Students were given 20
problems to solve and were
told they’d be paid 50 cents
per correct answer. After fi ve
minutes, one group turned in
their sheets, while the other
shredded theirs and reported
how many they got right. The
former solved an average of
four; the latter claimed six.
2. The study was repeated,
only this time the reward for
a correct answer ranged from
25 cents to $10. Shredders
still reported an average of
two more solved problems
than the others. However,
those off ered $10 per answer
actually cheated less.
Drive Time
As it turns out, June
is quite the month for
America’s favorite vehicle.
Among the highlights:
There are automobile collections,
and then there are automobile
collections that hold Guinness world
records. Harold and Nancy LeMay’s
fl eet—from which 500 cars, including
a 1930 Duesenberg Model J and
a custom 1958 Pontiac Bonneville,
have been drawn to create the new
LeMay Museum in Tacoma, Wash.—
is one of the latter. JUNE 2
If you’re among those who watched
Disney’s Cars and thought it might
be nice to spend some time in
Radiator Springs, take the family to
Disney California Adventure Park
in Anaheim, Calif., this summer. Its
new Cars Land off ers racing rides,
Flo’s V8 Café and the chance for
little ones to get towed around by
’Mater. ’Mater. JUNE 15
Andy Warhol’s preoccupation with ith
Americana didn’t stop at soup cans.
More than 40 automobile-themed
works by the artist (plus a 1979 fi lm
of him painting the BMW race car
shown above) will be in the spotlight
at “Warhol and Cars: American
Icons” at Alabama’s Birmingham
Museum of Art. JUNE 24
3. To see if fear of getting
caught was a factor, Ariely had
one group not shred, one halfshred
(so evidence remained)
and another shred before
leaving the room and paying
themselves out of a big bowl
of money outside. Amazingly,
the level of cheating remained
stable. Find out why on JUNE 5.
46 JUNE 2012 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

“We feel a connection to these people and
their stories from 100 years ago.”
Titanic Exhibit, Maritime Museum of the Atlantic, Halifax
Garry’s Nova Scotia
It’s an amazing story that just happens to be true:
a brand new ship, the leading technology of her
day, that hit an iceberg and sank to the bottom
of the North Atlantic. I think we’re all fascinated
by the stories we’ve heard over the years. Exhibits
like the one at the Maritime Museum of the Atlantic, where we get
to see the fi nest collection of wooden Titanic artifacts in the world,
keep that fascination alive.
Garry Shutlak, Senior Archivist, Nova Scotia Archives
Our seafaring history
You can experience Nova Scotia’s proud seafaring
history from one end of the province to the
other. From 17th, 18th and 19th Century
military fortresses overlooking protected
harbours, to demonstrations of wooden
boat-building techniques, our museums,
historic sites and attractions will
transport you to days gone by.
Don’t-Miss Events
Explore schooners, brigantines, brigs and barques
from around the world at Tall Ships ® 2012, July 19-29.
Join us for the relaunch of Bluenose II and celebrate the restoration
of Nova Scotia’s sailing ambassador.
Experience Celtic music and culture at events around Cape Breton
during the Celtic Colours International Festival, October 5-13.
1 800 565 0000

culture || THE MONTH AHEAD
Ravi Coltrane,
Spirit Fiction
The sax-wielding son of
jazz great John Coltrane (who
recorded with Duke Ellington)
comes into his own with this deep,
powerful collection featuring pianist
Geri Allen, who has played with
free-jazz pioneer Ornette
Coleman, and a cover of
Coleman’s own “Check Out
Time.” JUNE 19
Joe Jackson,
The Duke
A fi ve-time Grammy nominee
and a godfather of modern
British pop, Jackson reimagines
15 Duke Ellington standards with
fresh arrangements and help
from friends like rock icon
(and The Stooges frontman)
Iggy Pop.
JUNE 26
“[SUPERMAN] IS
NEITHER CYNICAL,
LIKE BATMAN, NOR
FRAUGHT, LIKE SPIDER-
MAN. … THE MORE
JADED THE ERA, THE
MORE WE HAVE BEEN
LURED BACK TO HIS
CLUNKY FAMILIARITY.”
From Superman: The High-
Flying History of America’s
Most Enduring Hero,
by Larry Tye. june 12
COVERING
TRACKS
THREE NEW ALBUMS
THAT PUT A SPIN
ON CLASSIC SONGS
HAVE MORE IN
COMMON THAN
YOU’D THINK
Neneh Cherry &
The Thing,
It’s a Cherry Thing
Cherry is best known for her
’80s hit “Buff alo Stance,” but she’s
been restlessly exploring musical
idioms ever since. Here, she teams
up with her stepfather, trumpeter
Don Cherry (who played with John
Coltrane), for jazz renditions of
tunes by, among others,
The Stooges and Ornette
Coleman. JUNE 19
Beasts of the Southern Wild sounds like
a primer on how not to go about your fi rst
movie production: Shoot a low-budget
magical-realist tale on super-16mm in
the Louisiana bayou, and feature lots of
local talent (including a 6-year-old lead
actress) and animals. That the fi lm ever
got made is a miracle. But when it took
home the Grand Jury Prize at Sundance
and promptly secured a deal with a major
distributor, Beasts was a triumph. (And
for 29-year-old director Benh Zeitlin, it
presumably meant his fi rst good night’s
sleep in a long time.) JUNE 27
The Tim Burton–produced historyhorror
mashup Abraham Lincoln:
Vampire Hunter. Yes, you read
that correctly. JUNE 22
Tom Cruise as a hair-metal rocker in the
big-screen adaptation of the Broadway
musical Rock of Ages. JUNE 15
Steve Carell as Keira Knightley’s
love interest in Seeking a Friend for
the End of the World. JUNE 22
The surprisingly dark Snow White and
the Huntsman, with Kristen Stewart
in the lead role. JUNE 1
That’s My Boy, which fi nally pairs
Adam Sandler with Adam Sandler 2.0
(Andy Samberg). JUNE 15
To Rome With Love, Woody Allen’s ode to
yet another European city. JUNE 22
G.I. Joe: Retaliation, including The Rock
and Bruce Willis. JUNE 29
Madagascar 3: Europe’s Most Wanted.
Enough said. JUNE 8
Long Shots
Tracking the relative ambition of
this month’s movie releases
48 JUNE 2012 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

AN EASIER WAY TO
MEET SOMEONE
An Insider Look at Dating in the Modern World A Note from the Experts:
Why does dating often times
seem so difficult and daunting?
With all the dating
websites and social networks
out there, you’d think it would be easier than
ever for singles to meet someone special. But
that’s not the case. Meeting the right people
seems harder than ever. To get the latest
on real-time dating trends, we caught up
with Melissa Brown, one of the many dating
experts at It’s Just Lunch.
IJL
LOCATIONS
Q: So what does today’s dating scene
look like?
A: Dating today is an interesting paradox:
we’re more connected than ever through
social media and online networking, yet
we’re also more disconnected than ever.
Today’s technology makes communication
faster, but I’m not sure it’s better. You can’t
make a genuine connection with someone
by texting, emailing or friending. When you
THE DATING SCENE
THE DATING SCENE
meet someone in person and share a meal
together, you see how that person interacts
with you and the people around you. You
observe their body language and how they
carry themselves. That’s where the true
chemistry happens: face-to-face, one on one.
At It’s Just Lunch, our focus is to get people
out from behind their computers and out
making connections with real people.
Q: What’s the biggest frustration
singles have with modern dating?
A: I hear the same thing over and over:
“it was like a second job spending all that
time looking over online profiles trying to
find someone who could be a match”. It just
takes all the fun out of dating. Most singles
don’t have a problem finding dates, but they
can’t find “good” dates. After a round of bad
matches and a busy schedule, it’s easy for one
to feel like giving up on dating all together.
Q: So why do people come to you at It’s
Just Lunch?
A: People hire specialists such as financial
advisors and personal trainers to handle
so many aspects of their lives, so why not
use a professional to help you find someone
special. We specialize in dating—we’ve made
more than two million matches over the past
20 years!
Q: What differentiates It’s Just Lunch
from other dating sites out there?
A: We believe that the best way to get to
know someone is face-to-face. So, we meet
every IJL client in person to get a feel for
his or her personality, preferences and
relationship goals. Then we hand-select and
arrange fun casual dates so our clients can
meet someone face-to-face and see if there is
chemistry.
Q: Does it work?
A: Answer: 20 years, 150 cities and over
two million first dates. Get in touch with
It’s Just Lunch at 800.858.6526 or
ItsJustLunch.com.
“Our hands on approach has helped us
become the number one personalized
matchmaking service in the world.”
Amy Brinkman Betty Sinclair Sara Darling
USA: AL · AZ · AK · CA · CO · CT · DE · FL · GA · ID · IL · IN · IA · KS · KY · LA · ME · MD · MS · MI · MN · MA · MO · NE · NV · NJ · NM · NY ·
NC · OH · OK · OR · PA · RI · SC · TN · TX · UT · VA · WA · DC · WI OUTSIDE USA: CANADA · IRELAND · AUSTRALIA · SINGAPORE · U.K.
º

A
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O
O
U
T
T
H
I
S
M
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N
T
H
culture
MOVIES Prometheus, a Ridley Scott–directed prequel of sorts to Alien // Marina Abramović: The Artist Is Present, a behind-the-scenes
look at the Serbian performance artist’s 2010 retrospective at MoMA BOOKS The Risk Agent, the latest international thriller from
bestselling author Ridley Pearson // Bruce Springsteen and the Promise of Rock ’n’ Roll, Marc Dolan’s authoritative take on the life and
times of The Boss TV The Season 5 premiere of HBO’s vampire soap opera, “True Blood” MUSIC Kin, by alt-country troubadour
Rodney Crowell in collaboration with writer Mary Karr, featuring Emmylou Harris, Vince Gill, Norah Jones and Roseanne Cash //
Analog Man, the fi rst solo album in 20 years from Eagles guitarist Joe Walsh // Overexposed, by pop-rockers Maroon 5
Manning Up
A wi y new memoir details one writer’s a empts
to re-masculate himself
JOURNALISM HAS ATTRACTED its share of bare-knuckled,
rough-and-ready, running-with-the-bulls sorts of writers.
Time humor columnist Joel Stein is not one of them. He
instead drives a yellow Mini Cooper and is kind of afraid of
dogs. Most important, in his own words, he’s “the type of guy
who avoids confl ict at all costs.”
Or was, that is, until his son’s birth a few years ago made Stein realize he wasn’t
prepared to raise a human being who might actually like “fi ghting and camping
and hunting and playing sports—stuff that to me seems nuts, but to your average
American male is just what you do for fun on the weekends,” he says. Stein’s
solution? A two-year odyssey into high-testosterone pursuits—detailed in his
recently released book, Man Made: A
Stupid Quest for Masculinity—that
Power Trio
Joel Stein’s take on some of
history’s manliest men
Genghis Gengh Khan: “Not only did the
13th-century 13th Mongol conquer
the largest contiguous empire in
history, hist but—due to his harem
of thousands of wwomen—there
are now 16
million men (and probably that many women
too) who have his DNA.”
Chesty Che Puller: “When I was in
boot boo camp with the Marines, I kept
hearing hea about this World War II
hero, hero the most decorated Marine
in history history, wh who said things like ‘They are in
front of us, behind us, and we are fl anked on
both sides by an enemy that outnumbers us
29 to to 1. They
can’t get away from us now!’”
Theodore T Roosevelt: “I hope
my m nearly-as-spoiled, nearly-asasthmatic
a son grows up to pursue
the ‘strenuo ‘strenuous life’ by becoming a cowboy,
sheriff , grizzly bear hunter, judo practitioner
and the kind of guy who gets shot at the
beginning of a speech and fi nishes it anyway.”
GRUNT WORK
Joel Stein hits the
obstacle course at
Army boot camp
would see him take the wheel of both
a $260,000 Lamborghini and a $6.2 million
Abrams tank, camp out with the
Boy Scouts and step into the ring with
a UFC champ, among other things.
More amazing than the fact that
Stein survived his exploits is that he
was allowed to try them at all. “The
amount of access that the armed services
gave me, especially, was insane,”
says Stein, who underwent both
Marine and Army boot camp training.
“That was easy compared with fi nding
someone who’d let me foster a dog.”
As he gets set to promote Man Made
in a month containing that manliest of
holidays, Father’s Day, Stein predicts it
will appeal most to “guys like me, guys
who always wonder what it’d be like
to do the kinds of stuff I did.” But he
holds out hope that, ahem, “real men”
will also give it a look. “When you’re
into something and you see someone
who knows nothing about it trying it,
it’s hysterical,” he says. “I think they’re
the least likely to read the book—but
would enjoy it the most.” out now
50 JUNE 2012 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM
COURTESY U.S. ARMY (STEIN)

OVERSEAS MANUFACTURING
ISN’T AS SCARY AS YOU THINK.
ITI, an American company headquartered in Houston, has
been helping clients manufacture goods in China for over
35 years – boosting profits and reducing costs. ITI has
unlocked the mysteries of foreign cultures, languages and
trade customs, creating significant manufacturing savings
over domestically produced goods – while maintaining or
improving delivery expectations.
ITI handles all the logistics such as finding the right
factory, negotiating prices, overseeing the tooling and
factory production, quality inspections, financing, insurance,
shipping, customs clearance and delivery. In fact, you pay
nothing until the product is received in your warehouse,
inspected and approved.
With full-time ITI employees working in nine established
offices in China, ITI can manage your overseas manufacturing
– so you can focus on growing your business. Call today.
281.242.7030 x28
skip.bickett@itimanufacturing.com
www.itimanufacturing.com
Since 1974

goods
No Stone Unturned
Hublot’s diamond-encrusted Big Bang Tourbillon
rocks the jewelry world
HERE’S THE THING ABOUT THIS WATCH:
You can’t have it. Well, all right, you can if you have $5 million
lying around and are able to convince Singapore-based dealer
The Hour Glass to resell the one-of-a-kind creation after having
just bought it at the BaselWorld watch and jewelry show
in March. But here’s another thing about this watch: To craft
it, 12 gem cutters and fi ve setters worked full time for seven
months to select, shape and place nearly 1,300 diamonds in
white gold, which makes the Big Bang, like the Mona Lisa or
the Sistine Chapel, the kind of treasure you don’t need to own
to appreciate. $5,000,000 / thehourglass.com
52 JUNE 2012 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

FOLLOW
YOUR
CONVICTIONS
at www.mlxusa.com/facebook
THE PONTOS TITANIUM CHRONOGRAPH
AUTOMATIC MOVEMENT ML 112, 43MM
TITANIUM CASE, RUBBER STRAP, 150ft WR
FOR INFORMATION CALL (609) 375-2293

culture || GOODS
About Face
This season’s
big idea in men’s
watches: the
dramatic dial
1
1
There’s more to the Tissot
Seastar Sport’s jumbo dial
than a sporty silhoue e. When
you’re 1,000 feet underwater,
you may fi nd the giant glowing
markings handy for keeping
track of your remaining dive
time. That said, it does have a
pre y sporty silhoue e.
$1,275 / tissot.ch
54 PHOTOGRAPHS BY LISA SHIN • JUNE 2012 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM
3
2
If you’ve got a dad who has
wrists the size of John
Goodman’s, there’s only one
thing to do for Father’s Day:
Buy the man a bigger watch.
May we suggest U-Boat’s
limited-edition U-42? Its 47 mm
face is so big it’ll make your
thigh seem dainty.
$6,150 / kenjo.net
2
3
Though it looks a lot like a
vintage pocket watch, Bell
& Ross’ WW1 (Wrist Watch 1)
Grande Date and Reserve de
Marche was actually inspired
by the very fi rst wristwatches,
worn by pilots in the 1920s.
Never was the phrase “Time
fl ies” more appropriate.
$5,000 / bellross.com

It’s All in the Wrist
Alluring non-watch accessories
for the feminine set
1
No one can accuse T. Anthony
of stuffi ness. In addition to fi ne
suitcases and preppy totes, the
latest collection from the venerable
leather-goods purveyor includes
such lighthearted off erings as
this purple alligator clutch. Quick,
everyone, to the limousine!
$3,500 / tanthony.com
2
2
Though German jewelrymaker
Wellendorff professes not to follow
fashion fads—a er 119 years, it
likely can make its own—its tightly
woven, multilayered 18-karat gold
Brilliance of the Sun bracelet is
the ideal accompaniment to this
season’s bright dresses.
$33,300 / wellendorff .com
3
3
GOODS || culture
3
Luxury jeweler Carelle has
perfected the art of the statement
bracelet: These gold bangles are
thin enough to complement delicate
wrists but, with a colossal amethyst
or blue topaz ringed by diamonds,
sparkly enough to launch a month’s
worth of dinner conversations.
$2,705 / carelle.com
HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • JUNE 2012 55
1

A World Of Fundy Finds
One of the last remaining coastal wilderness areas in North America is
now accessible via the Fundy Trail. A one hour hike will take you to Hearst
accessible only by helicopter.
From extraordinary whale sightings
to exploring other-worldly rock
formations, cycling in kilts to
sampling one of the rarest caviars in
the world, New Brunswick, Canada
around the astounding Bay of
Fundy, a natural phenomenon that
has grabbed the world’s attention
and culture that’s been shaped by
the powerful daily movement of
the ocean - 100 billion tons of water
the funnel shaped bay, creating the
Fly into Moncton and chart your
Picturesque St. Andrews by-the-
Sea is a superb seaside town and
an excellent launching point for
Fundy Discovery Aquarium features
unique displays and a theatre where
the mystery of the Bay of Fundy’s
towering tides and diverse wildlife
Fundy Isles – Grand
Manan, Campobello and Deer
Island.
at Roosevelt Campobello
International Park, learning more
about this exceptional lady, the
Delano Roosevelt, and the many
Discover the many delights of Saint
John, Canada’s oldest incorporated
Global Geopark recognised by
world-famous Reversing Rapids,
suspended high between six
Cape
Enrage rappelling down a 140 ft
spectacular views of the Bay of
The Hopewell Rocks are a not-tobe-missed
natural wonder where
around giant rock sculptures, then
Whale watching on the Bay of Fundy
Hiking the Fundy Trail
kayak on four-story high tides six
Wherever your travels take you in
treats like fresh lobster and scallops
and local favorites including smoked
salmon, wild blueberries, and
Moosehead beer, from Canada’s
Kayaking in St. Martins

I carve huge sculptures using
the world’s highest tides.
I’m very patient. Believe me. It takes
350 million years to get it just right. I
have the highest tides in the world and
every day my powerful currents do such
intriguing things, visitors come from all
over the world to experience my natural
wonder. At low tide, you can walk on my
water rises four stories high. My many
day’s drive or cruise away.
Hi. My name is New Brunswick. .
Google me.
Hopewell Rocks, Ro
Hopewell CCape
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what to wear: miami
Mayleen
Gonzalez
WEDDING/FASHION PHOTOGRAPHER
ON THE LOCAL STYLE:
“Miami’s not like New York,
where everyone’s decked out
all the time. We’re mostly
casual chic. But at night the
girls get totally dressed up.
They’ll eat cornfl akes for a
month to aff ord it, but they
like to look good!”
PERSONAL FASHION MANTRA:
“The three C’s: comfy, chic and
cool. I don’t care if it’s Saks or
Forever 21—if it feels right,
then I’ll buy it.”
WON’T LEAVE HOME WITHOUT:
“A great bag, like my Gucci
hobo, and a great pair of shoes.
In terms of my wardrobe, those
are the things I really invest in:
purses and shoes.”
PHOTOGRAPHS BY RIA MICHELLE
58 JUNE 2012 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM
PHOTO CREDIT TK - REMOVE IF EMPTY

PHOTO CREDIT TK - REMOVE IF EMPTY
MEET THE LOCALS
MORE STYLES FROM
THE STREETS OF MIAMI
“Miami used to
be all about rayon
and tight dresses,
very clubby. Now
it’s a bit hipper. I feel
it’s laissez-faire—
anything goes.”
BRITTANY MARISSA
HOSTESS, THE STANDARD HOTEL;
LIFELONG RESIDENT
HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • JUNE 2012 59

© 2012 United Air Lines, Inc. All rights reserved.
Explore space.
Enjoy more personal space
in Economy Plus ®.

MIKE LYNAUGH/RETNA LTD.
A Return
to Form
A er her Olympic career was nearly
derailed by a “Dancing With the
Stars” mishap, volleyball phenom
Misty May-Treanor prepares for a big
comeback in London
BY MICHAEL KAPLAN
the fan
D“Dancing With the Stars” seemed
like a good idea at the time.
Misty May-Treanor had, a er all,
snagged a pair of Olympic Gold
Medals in beach volleyball in
2004 and 2008 with partner Kerri
Walsh, making her a star. And she
had won more tournaments than
any other female competitor in
a sport played barefoot on sand,
meaning she clearly knew how
to jump high and land clean on a
dicey surface. So when the show’s
producers asked her to participate
in the 2008 season, she jumped at
the chance.
HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM HEMISPHERES ESM EES ESM ES ESM ES E ES ESM E ESM ES SM M AG AGA AG A GA GAA
ZIN NE.C E.C E. E.C E OM • JUN JU JUN JJUNE UN U UN UNNE
E 22012
012
61

62
culture || THE FAN
During rehearsals for week three,
however, May-Treanor hopped back from
her partner, heard a pop and, as she puts it,
“felt like somebody had hit me from behind
with a baseball bat.” The misstep ruptured
her Achilles tendon, leaving her sidelined
with crutches and a cast that stretched up
to her knee. The injury took her out of the
show, obviously, but worse, it threatened
to end her career as a beach volleyball
superstar. Considering that she had
hoped to go for her third Gold
Medal at the London 2012
Olympic Games, in what
would probably be her
final bid for glory,
it was all the more
heartbreaking.
May-Treanor,
34 and photogenic
enough to have been
tapped for guest
spots on “CSI: Miami”
and “Wizards of Waverly
Place,” made the most of her
misfortune. While recuperating,
she got a master’s degree in coaching
and athletic administration, and spent
more quality time with her husband
of nearly eight years, Matt Treanor, a
BE THE
BACKBOARD:
“Passing is all about foot
movement and not about
swinging your arms. Keep your
arms a beach ball’s length from
your body, fi nd the angle and let
the ball bounce off your arms
without swinging them.
You want to be a human
backboard.”
Be a seed planter,
not a bean counter.
We’re a business school designed to be among the
best in the world. And determined to be the best for
the world. That’s business as only the Johns Hopkins
Carey Business School can teach it.
There is still time to register for fall 2012 classes. Inquire
now to start in August.
the mend, she played a
bit in 2010 with Big Ten
college division Player
of the Year Nicole
Branagh at her side,
a partnership that
didn’t quite take.
A year later, Walsh
also began plotting
her return, with,
ironically, Branagh
as her partner. But
before that went very far,
May-Treanor invited Walsh to
lunch. Over the course of the meal,
the pair decided to try playing together
again. Walsh jettisoned Branagh, and
training began in earnest.
BEATING ’EM
ON THE BEACH H
Misty May-Treanor’s tips for
catcher for the
making the most of your
Los Angeles Dodgers.
volleyball games this summer r
Meanwhile, her partner
Walsh also seemed to be moving
away from the sport. With two
gold medals and nothing left to prove,
Walsh had a second baby while May-
Treanor was hi ing the books.
Settling into a quiet life may have
made sense immediately a er the injury,
but the plan didn’t stick for long.
May-Treanor got restless. On
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May-Treanor and Walsh
went public
with their reunion at a small tournament
in Brazil last year. Though the teammates
lost in the fi nals to a hometown twosome,
that was beside the point. “We played at
a high level and came back,” says May-
Treanor. “We realized that we could still
do it and we saw that we still enjoyed it.
The passion is still there for us.”
WOMEN’S BEACH VOLLEYBALL is a frequently
misunderstood sport. Because it
usually takes place on a picturesque oceanfront
and its athletes are barefoot and in
bikinis, some write it off as little more
than California fl akiness pushed through
a sporting spectrum. That’s a sore point for
May-Treanor. “People think we just show
up and play,” she says. “They don’t realize
that we train as hard as other athletes.”
She and Walsh work out together every
day. They train with individual coaches four
or fi ve times a week, and push themselves
with a phalanx of physical trainers and
HARRY HOW/GETTY IMAGES FOR USOC

strength specialists.
Then there is
the fi nancial pressure
of the game,
which makes it
feel less like a traditional
team sport
and more like poker.
“We’re not guaranteed a
paycheck when we show up
at a tournament,” May-Treanor
says. “We have to do well in order to get
the big prize money.”
Of course, when May-Treanor began playing
beach volleyball as a girl, making money
was the furthest thing from her mind. The
game was part of her culture; it ran in
her blood. The daughter of two
beach volleyball players (her
dad was an Olympic athlete),
she grew up near Muscle
Beach in Santa Monica,
Calif., a magnet for the
sport’s best players.
She teamed up with
Walsh in 2001, a er the
Sydney Olympic Games,
in which Walsh played
indoor volleyball and
May-Treanor competed on
EASE UP
ON THE SPIKE:
“A lot of people love the
power of spiking the ball. You
should work on control fi rst, and
learn to put the ball where you
want to put it. Make contact with
the ball from under to over, putting
a li le spin on it, rather
than hi ing it from your
shoulder.”
the beach with another
teammate. “Our first
year, Kerri and I did
not win a single tournament,”
May-Treanor
remembers. “A lot of
teams dismantle as soon
as they experience a down
period, but we gave it time and
made strides through the year,
making some close fi nishes.”
The pair’s chemistry became evident at
their maiden Olympic outing together, at
the Athens 2004 Games. They won their
first gold medals that year, outplaying
another U.S. team in the semis and beating
Brazil in the finals. Four
years later in Beijing,
May-Treanor and
THROW AWAY
THE RULES: “If you’re
playing with a lot of beginners,
don’t take beach volleyball too
seriously, and forget about the
rules. This game is all about
everybody having fun and
exercising. And don’t skimp on
the sunscreen, or you’ll
turn into a lobster.”
A NON-SURGICAL TECHNIQUE TO FIGHT
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facility to improve their condition, thousands of successful cases
have been treated over the past nine years.
Walsh went for a
repeat. “That was a
completely diff erent
journey,” says
May-Treanor.
“Beijing, for
me, was about
embracing the
Olympic Games.
When you go for
your fi rst gold, you’re
THE FAN || culture
so focused that you don’t get a sense of
what the Olympics are. In Beijing, I went
to watch boxing and table tennis. I visited
the Olympic Village and saw what the
Olympics are all about.” Winning a second
gold medal in Beijing, she says, “was icing.”
May-Treanor expects the London Games
to be another singular experience. Not cake,
not icing, but something else entirely. It’s
her comeback from forced retirement, a
triumph of determination, and as such
will stand as a life lesson on the power of
perseverance. For her and Walsh, winning
will be the perfect cap to an amazing career.
But while May-Treanor is laser-focused
on what’s next, she hasn’t been able
to resist the temptation to consider
what the more distant future holds—a
comeback of a different sort, perhaps.
“You have to remember that I was not
eliminated from ‘Dancing With the Stars,’”
she says. “I wasn’t voted off . I le due to
an injury. So there’s no reason why I can’t
give it another try.”
She pauses. “And if they invite me back,
I will go on in a heartbeat.”
MICHAEL KAPLAN is holding out for his
invitation from “The Voice.”
THE CENTER FOR REGENERATIVE MEDICINE
The Knee Diaries: SJ is a 60-year-old male with bone on bone osteoarthritis of the left
knee. An X-ray showed arthritis of the knee (X-ray on the left). Patient started receiving
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on the right).
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Australia from United Vacations®, you’ll:
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Australia is a beautiful continent filled with unique,
blended cultures. Relish the beaches and well-known
attractions of Sydney, soak up the culture of Melbourne,
visit some of the 1,700 parks in Brisbane, escape to the
Gold Coast’s Surfers Paradise, or dive into the wonders
of the Great Barrier Reef when you stay in Cairns.
There’s
nothing like
Australia

When you reserve your flight and hotel vacation to
Australia from United Vacations®, you’ll:
per person
Australia is a beautiful continent filled with unique,
blended cultures. Relish the beaches and well-known
attractions of Sydney, soak up the culture of Melbourne,
visit some of the 1,700 parks in Brisbane, escape to the
Gold Coast’s Surfers Paradise, or dive into the wonders
of the Great Barrier Reef when you stay in Cairns.
There’s
nothing like
Australia

1
INNOVATION BUSINESS GADGETS
2 3
HOW IT’S DONE
DIGGING DEEP FOR A GREENER CAMPUS
You’ll never see it in the recruiting brochures, but a coal boiler belching
soot across an otherwise idyllic ivy-covered quad is almost as common
a sight on college campuses as undergraduates and oak trees. That
is, unless the college is Indiana’s Ball State University, which is in the
process of installing the largest geothermal district-heating system in
the U.S. By its completion in 2014, the environmentally friendly system
will both heat and air-condition every building on campus using plain
water that’s been pumped through some 3,600 underground boreholes,
cu ing the university’s carbon output by 85,000 tons and saving
$2 million a year. Here’s how they’ll do it. BY JACQUELINE DETWILER
1 The system’s main
elements are several
“large-capacity heat pump
chillers,” which use the same
technology as a refrigerator
to make hot water hotter and
cold water colder. The heat
pump chillers then move
the water around campus,
transferring energy (heat)
from places where it is no
longer needed (the cafeteria
kitchen) to places where it is
(residence halls).
2 During summer months,
the heat pump chillers
reroute some of the hot
water into boreholes that
reach 400 to 500 feet into
the earth. On its journey,
the water cools, returning
to the surface at 55 degrees.
It can then be used to cool
classrooms.
3 The reverse happens in the
winter. Cold water, around
42 degrees, is heated to 55
degrees by the earth’s energy
while it travels through the
boreholes. The heat it picks
up is amplifi ed by the heat
pump chillers and sent out to
warm up shivering students.
HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • JUNE 2012 • ILLUSTRATION BY JAMES PROVOST 67

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STATE OF
PLAY
HOW COMPANIES
ARE SHAPING YOUR
BEHAVIOR BY TURNING
REAL LIFE INTO A GAME
BY PAUL KIX
INDUSTRY
Seth Priebatsch was an unusually precocious boy, but a boy nonetheless: one
who hated cleaning his room and wasn’t above tormenting his li le sister.
So to get him to behave, his parents devised a game. Every time he tidied up
a er himself or did his homework, he’d get a star-shaped sticker. Every time
he started a spat with his sister, one would be taken away. The more stars he
earned, the more money he received from his parents to spend on toys. Suffi ce
it to say, he bought a lot of toys.
Priebatsch had the star system in mind when, having enrolled at Princeton
in 2007, he decided to compete in the school’s annual business plan contest,
which off ered a fi rst prize of $5,000. Priebatsch fi gured he had it in the bag.
Drawing on his parents’ belief that games could shape behavior, he put together
a proposal for a company that would lead people on scavenger hunts by sending
text messages to their cell phones. These texts would direct the players
to participating brick-and-mortar businesses, and for every clue found there,
they would receive points. Earn enough points, and the players would get
discounts on merchandise at a store of their choosing.
Priebatsch won the $5,000. A year later, he dropped out of Princeton to
launch his business. Today, his company, Scvngr, which uses a mobile app
instead of text messages, is valued at more than $100 million,
HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • JUNE 2012 • ILLUSTRATION BY YAREK WASZUL 69

RIEDEL.COM
BRIGHT IDEAS || INDUSTRY
having been funded by the same
venture capital firms that first helped
Google. Scvngr is a prime example of the
next wave of social media, something that
very smart people are calling the “gamifi cation
of the real world.”
Gamifi cation, in this sense, is not playing
Farmville or Mafi a Wars with your Facebook
friends. Gamifying real life is more evolved
than that: It’s about weaving games into our
real-world interactions, games that are so
alluring they change our behavior. In a way,
the airlines and credit card companies that
introduced points programs a generation
ago were the fi rst to understand this. But
today’s Web- or mobile-based firms use
games much more overtly to accomplish
everything from raising revenue to tackling
societal ills. This emerging industry is predicted
to be worth $2 billion within the next
few years, says Timothy Chang, a managing
director of the Mayfi eld Fund, which invests
in gamifi ed companies.
One of those companies is HealthTap.
On the Silicon Valley fi rm’s website, users
post health questions that real-life doctors
respond to. The physicians aren’t paid
for their expertise; instead, they receive
points, climbing through HealthTap’s
gamelike levels and earning honorifi cs like
the “It’s Not Brain Surgery” prize, which
Ladies in the Red
!
A WORLD WITHOUT WOMEN WOULD BE
EMPTY AND SAD. AND BROKE.
I
f you’re already envious of your buddy
who works in an offi ce full of single
women, here’s some worse news: A new
study suggests that your friend is probably
richer than you, too.
In an experiment conducted at the University
of Minnesota’s Carlson School of Management,
male subjects who read fake news articles claiming that
men outnumbered women in the local population elected to save
42 percent less from a hypothetical paycheck—and borrow 84
percent more on a hypothetical credit card—than those who read
articles claiming that women outnumbered men. Even when the
subjects just looked at images containing fewer ladies, they were
more likely to choose an immediate reward ($20 at the end of the
experiment) than to wait a month for something larger ($30).
this month’s
AMAZING
FACT
is bestowed on a doctor who answers 21
questions at the site.
WHILE HEALTHTAP MAY SEEM like a minor
innovation, it actually represents a signifi -
cant breakthrough. For years, businesses in
the healthcare sector have looked for ways
to grab and hold doctors’ a ention away
from the office. “The problem is they’re
super-busy,” Chang says. “And people
always tried to use money as an enticement
to get doctors to help them.” But HealthTap
suggests doctors don’t necessarily want
money. They want esteem. The genius of
the site is that doctors post their answers
for everyone to see, including their peers.
A doctor’s expertise, eloquence—it’s all on
display. Add in the game layers and the
inherent drive to compete, and now you’re
getting at doctors’ egos, too. As a result,
HealthTap has grown from 5,000 participating
doctors to 10,000 in just one year.
“Gamifi cation has unlocked the truism
that consumers are pleasure-seeking
creatures and, given an option, will always
choose the activity that they find more
fun or pleasurable,” Gabe Zichermann,
co-author of Game-Based Marketing, notes
in a recent video posted on YouTube.
Still, this doesn’t mean that games
will cater exclusively to hedonistic or
70 JUNE 2012 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM
PHOTO CREDIT TK - REMOVE IF EMPTY

PHOTO CREDIT TK - REMOVE IF EMPTY
commercial impulses. Recyclebank uses
games to get people to recycle more, and
chief revenue offi cer Samantha Skey says
the firm has gone from 1 million registered
users a year ago to 3.2 million today.
Anything can be gamifi ed. As game developer
Jane McGonigal writes in her book,
Reality Is Broken: “I foresee games that
tackle global-scale problems like climate
change and poverty.”
This is Priebatsch’s plan. Right now the
Scvngr founder leads people on forages
that result in, say, cheaper burritos. But
he talks openly about wanting to help
put a “game layer on top of the world”
to get at seemingly intractable problems
like hunger in Africa or failing schools in
America. “Social media has gone through
three phases,” Priebatsch says, explaining
that the fi rst phase informed users, the
second connected them to each other, and
the third, the gaming phase, will see users
acting on the information they receive.
“A game layer just makes everything”—
whether trivial or vital—“a bit more fun,”
he says, “and that much more powerful.”
As a senior editor at ESPN the Magazine,
PAUL KIX spends his days studying a diff erent
type of gamifi cation.
Scientists think the phenomenon
stems from males’ willingness
to use their resources to compete
with one another when females appear
scarce—a tendency that is common
among other animals. Women’s
spending decisions, meanwhile, were
unaff ected. —JACQUELINE DETWILER
Discover the other New Mexico.
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FULL CASINO | LUXURY RESORT | CHAMPIONSHIP GOLF |
Offer valid Sunday-Thursday only, June 3-September 27, 2012. Offer code: GLF11AS. Standard room included.
Upgrades are available for an additional charge. Blackout dates on hotel and golf apply. Limited or no tee
times available during golf tournaments. Golf is weather permitting (rain checks available). Tee times are not
guaranteed. Not available to groups or attendees. One offer per visit. May not be combined with other offers.
Must be 21 or over to reserve room. No pets allowed. Management reserves all rights. The Mescalero Apache
Tribe promotes responsible gaming. For assistance, please call 1-800-GAMBLER (1-800-426-2537).
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Linked together by a clasp with the “I love you 7 days a week” inscription.
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BRIGHT LIGHTS
SMART TVS ARE QUICKLY MOVING FROM
NOVELTY TO UBIQUITY—BUT WHEN WILL THEY
BECOME THE WISE CHOICE FOR CONSUMERS?
BY TOM SAMILJAN
The age of real-time TV channel
surfi ng is coming to an end, given the
high cost of cable and the widespread
availability of most shows and movies
on iTunes and Netfl ix. In its place:
app-stocked, app Internet-connected ernet-connected TVs
with wit built-in streaming reaming services like
YouTube YouT and sports orts sites like MLB.TV,
as s well we as Facebook, ok, Twi Twi er, Flickr and
other o social media hubs. Are these
couch-potato o counterparts to the
smartphone mar ready y for prime time?
Not quite, qu but t have a li li le
patience—they’re ti
well on
their way, thanks to a few
recent innovations.
SAMSUNG 8000 SERIES LED
The biggest obstacle to the smart-TV
revolution has been the so ware updates
required to upgrade these dedicated, allin-one
units. If any signifi cant additional
processing power is needed, then last
year’s model is instantly outdated. But
that’s changing. Besides such snazzy
features as voice and gesture recognition,
the Samsung 8000 Series LED has
a removable hardware module that you
can simply swap out for the latest and
greatest processor. The company plans to
introduce new modules annually, starting
next year. With the 8000 Series off ering
everything from Netfl ix and Hulu to HBO
Go and 3-D movie rentals—not to mention
a built-in webcam for Skype calls—the
problem, for now, is its price: $3,500 for a
55-inch. That’s a pre y penny to pay for
something that could be rendered obsolete
at the same pace as your laptop, even
with hardware upgrades.
If you’re you re willing willing to put up up with extra
wiring and external component clu clu er, a
savvy alternative is to raise the IQ of your
existing TV with the help of some ni ni y
a a er-market solutions. Because the smart-
TV industry is still in its infancy, though,
these products are vastly
TECH
HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM SPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • JUNE 2012 • ILLUSTRATIONS BY IAN KELTIE 73

BRIGHT IDEAS || TECH
XBOX 360
diff erent from one another, making
your job less a ma er of comparison
than of fi nding the gadget that does what
you need it to do.
Most gamers already own one of the
best external components out there, the
Xbox 360. With the optional Kinect camera
($120) a ached, the Xbox Live service off ers
voice and gesture recognition for waving
and shouting your way through TV, movie
and music content—which is especially
handy when you’re doing a universal search,
since you don’t have to type anything into
a remote. Still, I prefer using the optional
Xbox 360 media remote ($20 ($20) because of its
smooth toggling between be Netfl ix,
Vudu, HBO H Go, Twi er
and Facebook Fa (all of
which you’ll need a
$60 annual Xbox
Gold Go subscription
to t use). Regardless
of how you
interact i with it,
the th Xbox 360 is
a well-engineered
we
option optio that is con-
stantly bbeing
upgraded
with new apps
and can be had
for as li li le as $200. $2
For social media med junkies, the
Boxee Box ($180) is the way to go.
What I like about this strangely shaped li le
guy is its dedicated “Friends” playlist, which
automatically updates with the latest videos
posted by your Facebook and Twitter
friends and will save you from a ‘‘Like”induced
video marathon in the middle of
the work day. If they’re paying a ention,
JUNE CROSSWORD ANSWERS
BOXEE BOX
manufacturers will incorporate something resembling this feature
into their next-gen smart TVs.
If space and wiring are an issue, there’s Apple TV, which for
only $99 boasts full 1080p HD quality—impressive, considering
the device isn’t much bigger than a lemon square. I just wish it had
more built-in streaming apps. (That said, the Netfl ix implementation
is smooth and off ers more HD movies than on other devices.)
As a workaround, Airplay compatibility ty lets you wirelessly stream
videos from your iPhone or iPad onto o your TV. This works
with videos from sites like Hulu and d HBO Go, and
if you already own a lot of iTunes s shows,
movies and music, it’s an easy and inexpensive
way to get that content up on
your big-screen.
It doesn’t take a Ph.D. in mechaniical engineering to realize that the e
smart money is on external set-top p
box solutions versus all-in-one TVs, s,
mainly because it’s a lot easier to o
replace last year’s $99 set-top box with h
this year’s. But once manufacturers s
APPLE TV
fi gure out how to combine the best t of
what’s already available for an aff ordable dable
price, the era of the smart TV will truly arrive—and the phrase
“boob tube” will be, at long last, obsolete. lete.
Hemispheres tech columnist TOM SAMILJAN considers publictelevision
documentaries the original smart TV.
74 JUNE 2012 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

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78
THE HEMI Q&A:
MICHELLE OBAMA
The fi rst lady on good
food, healthy kids and her
groundbreaking garden
FEATURES
82
THE BALLAD
OF ADDIS ABABA
One man’s quest to bring
home the revolutionary
sounds of Ethiojazz
88
THE MEANING
OF GOLF
An enlightened guide to
the game, starring
PGA legend Gary Player
“FOR ECUADOR’S EARLY ARTISANS, IT SEEMS
A BOWL WASN’T A BOWL UNLESS THERE WAS A JAGUAR
OR A SHAMAN’S FACE CARVED INTO IT.”
THREE PERFECT DAYS: QUITO
ILLUSTRATION BY CHRISTINE BERRIE • JUNE 2012 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM
77
96
THREE PERFECT DAYS:
QUITO
Exploring Ecuador’s
dramatic, history-rich
mountain capital

JUNE 2012
THE HEMI Q&A
Michelle Obama
In 2009, she planted a garden on the White House grounds, becoming the fi rst to do so since
Eleanor Roosevelt. Today, as the fi rst lady details in her new book, that garden stands as a
symbol of the growing movement to get be er food into America’s national diet.
BY JOE KEOHANE
ILLUSTRATION BY CHARIS TSEVIS
78 78
JUNE 2012 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • JUNE 2012 79

THE HEMI Q&A: MICHELLE OBAMA
CONVENTIONAL WISDOM HOLDS that kids and
vegetables are natural enemies. So when fi rst
lady Michelle Obama planted a kitchen garden
at the White House, she was surprised to see
the local schoolkids whose help she’d enlisted
take to it the way they did—particularly one
li le girl who wandered off with a whole tray
of caulifl ower (“This is so good, what is it?”), and
DIG IT
From top, Michelle
Obama inspecting
the wares at a D.C.
farmers’ market;
tending the garden
at the White
House with a
young volunteer
a couple of 4-year-olds who got so carried away picking herbs that
they began ripping out entire plants. “They tore up the whole
herb section,” the fi rst lady says with a chuckle. “It was the cutest
thing—they were into it.”
All first ladies have signature initiatives; Michelle Obama’s
is health. In addition to launching Let’s Move!, a program that
educates parents about the best way to feed their kids and encourages
youngsters to be more active, she decided to help start a
national conversation about how America eats by cultivating a
White House garden, becoming the fi rst to do so since Eleanor
Roosevelt grew a “victory garden” there during World War II.
Her experiences in the garden and beyond are detailed in her
new book, American Grown, which mixes memoir, gardening tips,
public policy ideas, and stories about people who are using gardens
to combat childhood obesity and bring fresh food to places
that have long gone without it. She recently spoke to Hemispheres
from the White House about the pleasures of gardening, the need
to eat be er and how her husband reacted to her idea to introduce
tens of thousands of bees near his basketball court.
80 MARCH MAR MA MAR MA MAR MA MAR MA MAR MA MAR MA MAR MA MAR MA MAR MA MAR MA MAR MA MAR MA MAR MA MAR MA MAR MA MAR MA MAR MA MAR MA MAR MA MAR MA MAR MA MAR MA MAR MA MAR MA MAR MARCH AR A AR AAR
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HE H HE HEMI MI MIS MI MIS MI MIS MI MIS MI MIS MI MIS MI MIS MI MIS MI MIS MI MIS MI MIS MI MIS MI MIS MMIS MISPHE IS I IS SPH
PHE PH PHE PH PHE PH PHE PH PHE PH PHE PH PHE PH PHE PH PHE PH PHE PH PHE PH PHE PH PHE PH PHE PH PHE PH PHE PH PHE PH PHE PHERES H HE H HE H HE H HE H HE H HE H HHE
H HE HHE
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E ES E ES EES
E ES ESMA
MAG MA MAG MA MAG MA MAG MA MAG MA MAG MA MAG MA MAG MA MAG MA MAG MA MAG MA MAG MA MAG MA MAG MA MAG MA MAG MA MAG MA MAG MA MAG MA MAG MAGAZ AG A AG A AG A AG AAG
A AG A AG A AG A AG AZ AZI AZ AZI AZ AZI AZ AZI AZ AZI AZ AZI AZ AZI AZ AZI AZ AZI AZ AZI AZ AZI AZ AZI AZ AZI AZ AZI AZ AZI AZ AZI AZ AZI AZ AZZI NE NE. NE NE. NE NE. NE NE. NE NE. NE NE. NE NE. NE NE. NE NE. NE NE. NE NE. NE.CO E. E EE.
EE.
COM CO COM CO COM CO COM CO COM CO COM CO COM CO COM CO COM CO COM CO COM CO COM CO COM CO COM CO COM CO COM CO COM CO COM CO COM CO COM CO COM CO COM CO COM CO COM CO COM
OM OOM
OOM
O OM O OM O OM

PREVIOUS SPREAD: MR PHOTO/CORBIS OUTLINE. THIS SPREAD: AP PHOTO/MANUEL BALCE CENETA (FARMERS’ MARKET); JASON REED/REUTERS/CORBIS (GARDEN)
HEMISPHERES: Let me just start by
saying that every attempt I’ve made to
grow anything has yielded disastrous
results. You never grew a garden in your
whole life before this one, and yours
turned out great. So you give me hope.
OBAMA: [Laughs.] You need the
National Park Service.
HEMISPHERES: That was actually going
to be my next question. Can you lend
them to me for a few days?
OBAMA: I’d love to! I cannot take
credit for the success of this garden.
This truly has become a community
eff ort. There are people who work
in the White House, in all areas,
who volunteer a couple of times a
week to go down there and weed.
It’s a great way to just let off steam.
And of course we have all these
wonderful schoolkids who help me
too. Yesterday was our spring planting,
and we planted the garden in 15
minutes because we had 34 kids.
You know what? That’s what you
need: 34 kids. You need 34 kids to
help you plant.
HEMISPHERES: Noted. You’re the fi rst
person since Eleanor Roosevelt to grow
food on the White House grounds—
where did the idea come from?
OBAMA: It really started in my
kitchen in Chicago. As a working
mom, I came to the issue of childhood
health because I was falling
into the same rut as many other
parents around the country. We were
eating out way too much, not paying
a ention to portion sizes, drinking
lots of sugary drinks. My pediatrician
pulled me aside and suggested
I check out our diet, because the
numbers weren’t going the way they
should. I thought I was doing the best
I could for Sasha and Malia, so it was
kind of a shock to me. We made some
very basic changes in our household.
I tried to cook maybe one more time
during the week, and bake more than
fry. We got rid of all our sugary drinks
and started drinking more water. We
looked at portion sizes. By the next
visit, our doctor said the kids were
back on track in terms of what he
wanted to see. It took so li le to make
these changes.
HEMISPHERES: Did the kids push back?
OBAMA: Oh yeah. You start reading
labels and throwing out the juice
boxes, and they’re looking sad over
the garbage pail. But one of the
things we did was to make a habit
of going to farmers’ markets more
and involving the kids in the process.
What I found was that my kids were
more willing to try things that they
The garden project involved building
a beehive that would eventually host
some 70,000 honeybees, an idea that
gave the president pause. Was it hard
to convince him? “You know,” the fi rst
GROWTH PLANS
American Grown has advice for even the most black-thumbed aspiring gardener, including these tips on
ideal daytime growing temperatures from National Park Service horticulturist Jim Adams:
55º– 75º
Garlic, leeks,
onions,
shallots
60º– 65º
Beets, broccoli,
cabbage, carrots,
caulifl ower,
kale, potatoes,
spinach
65º– 75º
Beans, black-eyed
peas, cucumbers,
melons, squash,
sweet corn
had a hand in picking out. Then I
started thinking that if I didn’t know
these things, what’s everybody else
doing? What about parents who
don’t have access to farmers’ markets
and don’t have this information? I
thought it would be cool to plant a
garden at the White House and use
it as an educational tool. This was
during the campaign, long before we
even knew Barack had a chance. But
that’s when the idea was hatched.
HEMISPHERES: You got a great
platform to spread your message, but at
the same time you ended up with what
had to be the most scrutinized kitchen
garden in the history of the world.
OBAMA: Absolutely. It’s right before
planting day and you start thinking,
“What if nothing grows? What if a er
all this work the tomatoes taste horrible
and it’s just a complete failure?”
HEMISPHERES: Then you have op-ed
writers turning it into a metaphor.
OBAMA: Exactly.
HEMISPHERES: But you’ve done very
well. Your fi rst harvest yielded 1,600
pounds of produce. That’s serious.
70º– 85º
Eggplant, hot
peppers, okra,
sweet potatoes,
tomatoes,
watermelon
OBAMA: I stopped keeping track a er
a while. We get thousands of pounds
of food from that garden each year,
and we eat from it every day. We
incorporate greens into salads for
state dinners, for luncheons, and we
give hundreds of pounds of food to
lady says, “he really didn’t have a say.” CONTINUED ON PAGE 146 »
HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • JUNE 2012 81

In the early 1970s, Ethiopia’s
music scene rivaled any
on earth in terms of swing,
inventiveness and sheer
beauty. A decade later,
it was nearly wiped
out—a victim of the
strife and famine that
drove many of the
nation’s
great artists
into exile.
As Ethiopia
regains its
footing, an unlikely
ambassador has
emerged to help bring
the music back to a new
generation and reunite
the country with a bit of
its golden past.
82 JUNE 2012 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

THE BALLAD
OF
ADDIS ABABA
BY RACHEL SLADE
PHOTOGRAPHS BY JIRO OSE 83

IT’S DUSK IN ADDIS ABABA,
and the drivers pulling up to the
10-foot-tall corrugated metal gate
outside Jazzamba beckon to the guard.
He’s ancient, wearing a dusty and
threadbare uniform of indeterminate
color a few sizes too big for him, looking
like the sole survivor of some longforgotten
regiment. Moving slowly,
he swings the gate wide and herds
the Land Rovers, Toyotas and Hyundais
into three-deep rows.
Car doors open, and Ethiopia’s glitterati emerge
onto the dusty lot: ladies in eveningwear, grandmas
with updos, Rastas in dreadlocks, Chinese engineers,
business-casual Germans, college boys in penny
loafers and wayfaring Americans in torn jeans. Outside
the gate, Addis Ababa, the fourth largest city in
Africa, is struggling to fi nd its feet a er a decades-long
civil war, a devastating famine and a 40-year confl ict
with the border region of Eritrea that ended with
partition and an uncomfortable truce in 2000. But
inside, music lovers young and old line up to shell
out 50 birr (about $3) to be transported to a plush,
velvet-and-chandelier approximation of the New York
and Paris lounge scenes.
Onstage at Jazzamba are some of Addis’ greatest
contemporary musicians. Ayele Mamo, a scene veteran
now near 80, picks the mandolin. Henock Temesgen,
who lived in self-imposed exile in the U.S. for 25 years
before returning to his native city, is
manning the bass. On guitar is the
incomparable Girum Mezmur. They
are all members of the Addis Acoustic
Project, a band devoted to the onceendangered
genre known as Ethiojazz.
The current scene is young—the band
formed just two years ago and the club opened late
last year—but it’s already made these men famous.
The seeming misfi t of the group stands at stage
right. He’s a hulking American sax player by the name
of Russ Gershon. He’s the only white guy up there,
but if he looks slightly uncomfortable it’s not because
he’s the odd man out—it’s because he’s hopelessly
jet-lagged. As the other members of the band fi nd their
groove, the graying, bespectacled Gershon wets his
reed a few times and sways with the music.
Ethiojazz is deceptively simple, based on uniquely
un-Western scales. It goes deep. You can’t just waltz
in and jam. Thus, all eyes are on Gershon as he takes
SHOWTIME The crowd at Jazzamba;
previous spread, from left, Addis Acoustic
Project members Girum Mezmur, Bahta G.
Hiwot, Henock Temesgen and Dawit Frew
a breath and raises the sax to his lips. Then, out it comes: a bewitching jazz
riff that blends into the song like cream into coff ee. Gershon might look like
an outsider, but the reality is far diff erent. He just might be the best friend
this music has.
RUSS GERSHON FELL for Ethiopian music almost two decades ago—and
fell for it hard—when friend and fellow musician Mark Sandman of the band
Morphine gave him the CD Ethiopian Groove: The Golden ’70s. A reissue of
Ethiopian popular tunes, it had been released by Francis Falceto, a globetro
ing Frenchman and world-music devotee who also happened to be a
fi erce advocate of Ethiopian sounds.
At the time, Gershon, a Harvard grad with a degree in philosophy, was
picking up recording gigs while leading his own 10-piece band in Boston. “I
thought, ‘Greatest album title ever,’” he recalls, sipping the thick local arabica
“AFTER FIVE BARS OF MUSIC, THE WHOLE
AUDIENCE ROSE AS ONE AND BEGAN TO SHOUT,
CLAP, STOMP. SOME WERE EVEN CRYING.”
on the veranda of Addis’ Taitu Hotel the morning a er the Jazzamba show.
He produces a copy of the disc and slides it across the table. “When I fi nally
sat down to listen, the music grabbed me and went into heavy rotation on
my CD player. I had an intense fan reaction.”
On the CD were rock and jazz numbers recorded in Ethiopia back in
the ’60s and ’70s, yielding a satisfyingly weird hybrid of deeply traditional
Abyssinian tunes gra ed onto Western pop arrangements. Gershon was a
typical musical omnivore—having fi rst been an avid punk fan, then playing
New Wave in the ’80s, and then jazz—but Ethiopian music was a fi xation to
end them all. The music so haunted him that in 1997 he wrote a few charts
for his band, Either/Orchestra, based on the scales and beats he’d heard on
the disc. Wanting to take it further, he sought out collaborators; fortunately
for him, Ethiopia’s best musicians had emigrated to New York, Boston
84 JUNE 2012 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM
SCOTT LACEY (GERSHON); TIM WHITE/GETTY IMAGES (ETHIOPIAN NATIONAL THEATRE)

HORN OF PLENTY Clockwise
from left, Russ Gershon;
members of Either/Orchestra
studying the music of Nerses
Nalbandian, held by the
composer’s son Vartek;
Either/Orchestra at the
Ethiopian National Theatre;
Addis Ababa’s main square
HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • JUNE MARCH 2012 2012 85

A FAMILY AFFAIR Vartek
and Salpi Nalbandian
show off their father’s
instruments; inset, Nerses
Nalbandian as a young man
and Washington, D.C. Gershon invited
them to join his band whenever they could,
and picked up more music and culture
as he went.
Meanwhile, Falceto, who had risked his
life to sneak vintage recordings out of wartorn
Addis in the ’80s, was itching to bring
music back into Ethiopia, to show the new
generation what it was missing. Sensing
an opportunity, he suggested that Gershon
(whom he had signed to record on his
Ethiopiques label) bring Either/Orchestra
to the 2004 Ethiopian Music Festival.
Although the country was by then emerging
from its dark days, its music scene
remained thin at best. Anyone who had the
wherewithal to leave had done so, including
many top musicians. By playing the
festival, Gershon’s group would not only
help bring back the Ethiojazz sound, but
also perform as the fi rst American big band
in Ethiopia since Duke Ellington came to
the Hilton Addis Ababa hotel in 1973.
Thrilled at the prospect, Gershon
raised funds to get his band to Addis
(an eff ort sponsored in large part by the
U.S. embassy) and stepped into the role
of jazz ambassador
to a country he’d long
adored from afar. As
for actually playing in
Ethiopia, it was more
than intense, he recalls:
It was full-on immersion
using a language in
which he felt he’d only
just gained fl uency.
Falceto, too, felt the
heat. “Right before the
concert, I was extremely
anxious, having no idea
what the reaction of the
95-percent-Ethiopian
audience would be,”
he says. “But a er fi ve
bars of music, the whole
audience rose as one
and began to shout,
clap, stomp. Some were
even crying. Whenever
I mention this moment,
I have goose bumps. It
was a milestone in modern
Ethiopian music
history.” (A erward, one
fan would tell Gershon
that he’d clearly been
speaking Amharic, the
local tongue, through
his sax; the musician says it’s the greatest
compliment he’s ever go en.)
Gershon’s next breakthrough came as
he was walking off the stage after that
inaugural concert and was approached by a
tiny, gray-haired woman with bright brown
eyes. “I am Salpi Nalbandian, the daughter
of Nerses Nalbandian,” she said in perfect
English. She explained that her father had
been the composer for the National Theatre
under former Emperor Haile Selassie,
making him the godfather of the music
Gershon had grown to love. Gershon knew
something of Nerses Nalbandian’s massive
infl uence, but he’d always fi gured the music
was lost. No one had played it in 30 years.
Salpi saw his eyes light up. “We have all
his charts,” she said. “Every single one. You
and your band must perform his music.”
But fi rst, she said, Gershon had to come
over for dinner.
THE NALBANDIAN HOUSE sits in what
was once a neighborhood along a dusty
road that climbs out of Addis Ababa into
the western hills. Nerses built it more
than 60 years ago, CONTINUED ON PAGE 148 »
BEAT BOX
Russ Gershon off ers a
beginner’s guide to Ethiojazz
MAHMOUD
AHMED: ERE
MELA MELA
“The quintessential
expression
of Ethiopian soul through the
Western band format, featuring
Ethiopia’s most beloved singer at a
creative high-water mark.”
VARIOUS
ARTISTS: ETHIO-
PIAN GROOVE
“Francis Falceto’s
brilliant compilation
of 45s from the ’60s and ’70s.
Every song is a killer.”
MULUQEN
MELLESSE:
ETHIOPIQUES 30
“Muluqen was a
teen star—a multiinstrumentalist
and singer—when
the Derg dictatorship closed down
the recording industry in 1976. One
of the last LPs released before the
blackout was a brilliant Muluqen
album, which Francis is preparing
for reissue this fall or next spring.”
MULATU
ASTATKE:
ETHIOPIQUES 4
“Mulatu’s pioneering
early ’60s and
’70s instrumental B-sides put p
Ethiojazz z on today’s music map.”
SETEGN N
ATANAW: W: ZEFEN
DURO KERE ERE
“This Washington, ashington,
D.C.–based sed masinko
virtuoso’s ’s album
title means ans ‘the
old songs s are
best.’ It’s s done
in a traditional itional
azmari style tyle
with a postostmodern touch touch
on the title tle
track.”
86 JUNE 2012 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM
PHOTOGRAPH BY BY JIRO OSE O (SALPI + VARTEK NALBANDIAN)

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STARRING
THE GREAT
GARY
PLAYER
HEMISPHERES’ 2012 GOLF SPECIAL | 88
BY TOM CHIARELLA
TYPOGRAPHY BY JUDE TANDRY | PHOTO ILLUSTRATION BY PETER CROWTHER
10
UNEXPECTED
GEMS
THREE
HELLISH
HOLES
... AND A BALL
FOR EVERY SWING
(EVEN YOURS)

TRY. FAIL. TRY AGAIN.
SUPPRESS EGO.
CLEAR MIND.
HONE STRENGTHS.
EMBRACE OBSTACLES.
ATTAIN ENLIGHTENMENT.

JUNE 2012
90
SPRINGING
THE TRAP
At 76, Gary Player remains a
straight shooter, fast walker and
restless talker. Our correspondent
catches up with the golf legend
to discuss the glory of irons, the
benefi ts of oranges and, most
important, how exactly to get out
of this pesky bunker.
IT’S NOT EASY, climbing into a steep,
fl awlessly raked, beach-white sand trap to
go a a er a slightly errant shot, but even at
76, Gary Player hops down like a rabbit, heel
fi rst, and slides a li li le, almost surfi ng the face
of sun-bleached silicate before he two-steps
onto the trap’s fl oor and stands beside his
ball. It too is glistening. “You can’t be afraid
of the sand,” he says. “I’ll tell you I never was.
Not even as a boy. I always liked the challenge
of it. You have to love the challenge.”
Player is a nine-time major champion,
the lifetime winner of 165 tournaments
worldwide and only the third winner of golf’s
grand grand slam (which he completed at age 29).
He’s also the best man you could possibly
have with you in a sand trap, as he’s widely
considered to be the greatest sand player
ever. So when he beckons, I follow.
My ball’s there too, by the the way, just a li li le
bit buried, creating a bunker phenomenon
known as a “fried egg.” I gingerly approach
the the bunker, and Player is waiting for me. It’s
an intimidating sight. He’s superfi t, a lifelong
health nut, and looking down at him
from the bunker’s edge, I have two distinct
thoughts. One is that his waist is thinner
than my thigh. The second is Don’t hit it
fat. I clump down, right right foot fi rst, and
the sand accepts my presence next to
one of the lions of the game.
Player can still play, even at his
age. While he’s got some length
off the tee (and I can stay with
him there when I get through
the ball), he is foremost a rocksolidsolid
iron player who still tests clubs for
Callaway. This morning, for instance, he
hit 200 balls with 17 diff erent irons. The
company does fi lm lm him, but what matters
most are his words. “I like this,” he’ll
say. “Oh yes.” He’s cha cha y about it, doesn’t
mis-hit a single ball, all the while drawing
conclusions not from ball fl ight or distance,
but from the mysterious return return
he gets from his hands.
Minutes earlier, before the sand trap, I
ask him about his iron play, standing over
a 230-yard shot to a fl ag that’s pushed
cruelly to the back of a tiered green.
“Mostly I can still hit it very straight,”
he says. “I test clubs simply because I’m
a straight hi hi er, and they know that. I
always have been. I’m not some giant,
not some young johnny who ba ba ers the
ball. When you play your irons well, you
can do anything.”
I look down at my hybrid 4-wood. Player
holds out a palm, welcoming me to take my
swing. He’s a good host. “It’s all right. You
hit what you hit. Just hit it straight.” I get
into this one, and it is straight. Straight le le
of target. Right into the big mouth of the
bunker. “Pulled it,” he says, walking forward
briskly as ever. “That’s fine, just fine.” He
seems to make walking into a fi tness event.
He famously wheels his golf bag through
airports, in hotel lobbies; he’s speedy to the
car, into the dining room. He walks like a
hungry 17-year-old.
He approaches approaches his ball, about 200 yards
out, squares up and hits a beauty, high
and well gauged, which turns midflight,
bounces twice across the green and gently
rolls into the same same trap. “It’s “It’s just sand and
grass,” he says. “All just sand and grass.”
He’s a ruddy golfer, implacable and polite.
Kind to a fault. Playing him, one wishes he
would slow down, if only for the sight of
him, the great champion, the champion’s
PHOTO CREDIT TK - REMOVE IF EMPTY

PHOTO CREDIT TK - REMOVE IF EMPTY
champion, champion dealing with some routine
impertinence impertinen of the game—a sprinkler
head, grou ground under repair, a long forced
carry. He’s forever moving, forever fl ow-
ing into on one of his monologues.
“I’ve seen see every level of golf technol-
ogy since before b they started calling it
technology,” technolog he says as we walk to the
bunker tog together. “But it is technology. I
mean, the diff erences today are micro-
scopic. You
need instruments to measure
it all. And it’s chemical, too, all the met-
als. Imagin Imagine: For these fellows here at
Callaway, I am the instrument. Throw
a ball on tthe
ground and I will hit it
straight. It It’s always been that way. Since
I was a young you competitor. Very reliable.
I was never neve afraid of where the ball was
going—you going—you can’t be.”
He He off ers er me a piece of fruit, as he did
once when I fi rst met him in Africa ages
ago. Back tthen
it was an orange, and I’ve
been a dev devoted consumer of the fruit
ever since. I tell him this, which occasions
another monologue. m
“Years ago I put you
onto oranges?” orang he says. “Well, I was right,
wasn’t wasn’t I? You Yo have to eat oranges. They are
an American America treasure. I’m always warning
people abo about eating that mush they eat,
about taking takin worthless meals for no good
reason. Consider Co every bite. I’ve done
that since I was competing. More now
than ever. You have to acknowledge the
facts of foo food.”
The golf
world stretches out when he
speaks. He says all this before we get to
the bunker, bunke to the wayward shots that
somehow end up near one another in
the sand. IIt’s
good that he rambles. That
he crams so s much into so li le space. I
want to he hear more, and there are only
three holes
le .
We reac reach the bunker. “Have a go,” he
says, and I
hood my club a bit, but don’t
swing swing fi rm rmly. My ball jumps up, over the
edge, and ttrickles
onto the bo om of the
green. green. Though Thou it’s not worth much praise,
Player is complimentary. co
“All right then,”
he says, as
he stands over his ball. Every-
thing shines: shine the ball, his wedge, the very
moment. TThe
greatest sand player in the
world, righ right in front of me. He swings, and
the ball rises. ris It’s above the hole, though
without spin. sp It stops 15 feet past. “See
there,” he ssays.
“Nothing to remark about.
Just a poor shot.”
But I know kn there’s still plenty for
Player to say, s and plenty of daylight le
in which to hear it. I go to prompt him, but
he climbs oout
of the bunker, quickly, and
gets back to
work before I can say a word.
CONTOUR BY GETTY IMAGES (PLAYER); COURTESY OF VITA PLANNING & LANDSCAPE ARCHITECTURE (MOUNTAINTOP GOLF CLUB). PROS ILLUSTRATIONS BY BRETT AFFRUNTI
Black Holes
Three top club pros on the most morale-gu ing,
game-wrecking links they’ve ever teed up against
PRO: JACK
BARBER
Meridian Hills
Country Club,
Indianapolis
(2009 National
PGA Professional
of the Year)
PRO: STEVEN
YOUNG
Golf director
and teaching pro,
Fairmont Banff
Springs, Banff ,
Alberta, Canada
PRO: SCOTT
SCHROEDER
Head pro, Atlanta
Country Club,
Atlanta
HOLE: 8TH AT PEBBLE BEACH (CALIFORNIA)
“Everyone’s seen it on television, but until you stand
at the tee it’s hard to describe how many elements
of this iconic hole confront you. Start with the wind,
always the wind, then the blind tee shot, the cliff you
have to get close to, the second shot over the water
with its 200-foot elevation change. Then you have the
unforgiving green. And all you need is four great golf
shots. Great. Good is not good enough.”
HOLE: 17TH AT GOWAN BRAE GOLF & COUNTRY
CLUB (NEW BRUNSWICK, CANADA)
“A 243-yard par-3 with a deep, deep hogbacked green,
this hole is a game-changer. The wind is generally into
you; there’s water on the right. The safe play, a bailout
left, leaves you with a tough pitch into a nasty green
complex. I’ve seen more tournaments, more matches,
more steady rounds thrown out of whack by this hole
than any other. It’s a monster.”
HOLE: 9TH AT TOM FAZIO’S MOUNTAINTOP
GOLF CLUB (NORTH CAROLINA)
“This hole is pro tough every time you play it. It’s long.
A 491-yard par-4. You have to slam your fi rst shot,
reshape your second—generally with a long iron off
a hanger lie—and carry a creek bed. Then you have
to deal with a 57-foot-deep green with three distinct
tiers. I’ve never seen a hole that asked so much of
every type of golfer. It’ll wreck you.”

92
BACK 10
Golf has always been about ge ing
away, but these 10 courses in unexpected
locations—from the sands of Dubai to
the forests of Washington—allow
you to make some truly great escapes
MISSION HILLS HAINAN RESORT, HAIKOU, CHINA
The lure here is the chance to take on 10 wildly varied courses in a single visit
to tropical Hainan Island, a.k.a. China’s Hawaii. The courses stretch in every
direction, blanketing the landscape with walkable marvels like Blackstone,
a tough-nutty 18 set atop an undulating bed of lava rock.
CASCATA GOLF CLUB, BOULDER CITY, NEV.
The premier house course for Caesars Palace, Cascata is etched on a remarkable
tumble of valleys, buttes and crests, and is suffi ciently removed from
the craps tables that you can forget your troubles with the hard eight. There
are still some tough rolls out here, but they come on the greens, not the felt.
SWEETGRASS GOLF CLUB, HARRIS, MICH.
A truly think-y course designed by a former professor at St. Andrews
University in Scotland, Sweetgrass features the full range of classic—and
challenging—golf pleasures: a redan hole, a Biarritz hole, an island hole and
a huge shared green at the close of both sides.
CINNAMON HILL GOLF COURSE, MONTEGO BAY, JAMAICA
Situated on the 7,000-acre Rose Hall Resort, Cinnamon Hill off ers a wide-open
front nine with ocean views and a tight back nine that rises 300 feet into
the mountains. And then there’s the pop culture signifi cance: Johnny Cash’s
former house looks down on the waterfall where Live and Let Die was fi lmed.
DIANE COOK AND LEN JENSHEL/CORBIS (PRINCEVILLE); DAVID CANNON/GETTY IMAGES (JUMEIRAH); TOM BREAZEALE (MISSION HILLS);
TOM CRAIG (CASCATA); BRIAN OAR/FAIRWAYSPHOTOGRAPHY.COM (SALISH CLIFFS)

SALISH CLIFFS GOLF CLUB, SHELTON, WASH.
Debuting in 2011, Salish Cliff s is carved from the native forests of western
Washington, on the Little Creek Casino Resort. The course, designed by
Gene Bates, is meandering enough that every hole is an isolated, plush world
unto itself. Meaning you go far to get there, then you go far all over again.
PRISTINE BAY RESORT, ROATAN, HONDURAS
Located on an island about 35 miles off the coast of Honduras, this 72-hole
Pete Dye creation remains kind of a tropical secret. Signature Dye touches
include a progression of holes that runs from the ocean to the mountains and
back again, each with stellar views of this remote corner of the Caribbean.
PRINCEVILLE AT HANALEI, KAUAI, HAWAII
Perched on the most remote of the Hawaiian Islands, the 45-hole Princeville
resort provides the opportunity to hack divots and rattle the sticks in a setting
straight out of an adventure movie. Afterward, you might sit with the stars of
said movie, drinking signature cocktails on the resort’s famous Makana Terrace,
or step downstairs to dine at Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s Kauai Grill.
JUMEIRAH GOLF ESTATES, DUBAI, U.A.E.
Jumeirah Estates is a Greg Norman masterpiece anchored by two equally
challenging courses: Fire and Earth. The former tops out at 7,600 yards, the
latter at 7,400. The desert air will help you cope with those distances—but
there’s no escaping the monster 651-yard par-5 18th on the Earth course.
LONGABERGER, NASHPORT, OHIO
Built in large part for associates of the home-goods giant of the same name,
Longaberger quickly became the top-rated public golf course in Ohio after it
opened in 1999. The initial demand for tee times has since eased, so get in for
a summer round and enjoy roaming these strangely wondrous Ohio farmlands.
WHITE CLOUDS GOLF COURSE, SUN VALLEY, IDAHO
While there are 45 exquisite holes of golf in Sun Valley, the nine that compose
this modest course are the ones worth traveling for. Set high on a ridge, White
Clouds makes up for its lack of holes with breathtaking 360-degree mountaintop
views. As the plaque on the 5th hole reads, “This is not all about golf.”

GOLF BALLS:
A TAXONOMY
THE BEAUTIFUL GAME
PETE, 45,
an athletic lowhandicapper
with a
beautiful swing and
some nagging injuries
VERDICT
He wants a hard, spinning
performance ball. Since
he doesn’t need to work on
direction or distance,
he should start testing
balls at the green and
move backward.
TITLEIST PRO V IX
GAME PLAN
Looking to catch some
golf greats in action?
Mark your calendar
and let United, the
offi cial airline of
the PGA Tour, take
you there.
THE FIRST-TIMER
FIONA, 14,
a novice wildly
afraid of failing
VERDICT
A soft ball is just the thing.
There’s nothing wrong with
a slow swing, especially
when starting out, so she
needs to fi nd a ball that
hops off the club—
that way, she can discover
how much fun hitting
a golf ball can be.
PRECEPT LADY IQ+
U.S. OPEN, JUNE 11–17: All eyes will be
on Masters champ Bubba Watson as
play begins at San Francisco’s sco’s Olympic
Club. Book a fl ight to United’s ted’s hub
at SFO—with service from m 86
cities worldwide, including ng all
our U.S. hubs and our hub b at
Tokyo Narita—and touch down
15 minutes from the course. se.
THE BANGER
SEAN, 20,
a hard-swinging
longballer
VERDICT
If his only goal is
distance, he should go
for the hardest,
lowest-spin performance
ball he can fi nd.
(But that won’t help
him much around
the green.)
TITLEIST VELOCITY
THE IRON CHEF
MARTY, 62,
a lifelong lowhandicapper
who’s lost
some distance but
compensates for it with
unbearably good iron
play, making his money
from 190 yards in
VERDICT
A precise swing takes care
of itself. For this kind of
player, it’s probably more
about feel on the green with
the putter.
TITLEIST PRO VI
U.S. U WOMEN’S OPEN, JULY 5–8:
The T LPGA’s longest-running
tournament to
comes to Blackwolf
Run R in Kohler, Wis. The course is
located lo about an hour north of
Milwaukee, M
which features daily
nonstop n service on United from
Houston, H New York/Newark,
Denver, D Chicago and Cleveland.
PHOTO CREDIT TK - REMOVE IF EMPTY

STREETER LECKA/GETTY IMAGES (WATSON)
Golf swings vary wildly, yet most golfers never truly match their ball
choice to the strengths and limitations of their game. The author
profi led seven very diff erent friends, and—with the help of master
club-fi er Steve Grosz of Hot Stix Golf in Sco sdale, Ariz.—found the
best ball for each one. ILLUSTRATIONS BY MCKIBILLO
THE GRINDER THE YOUNGBLOOD
MIKE, 67,
a short, proud, ox-strong
10-handicapper who hits
the ball low and straight,
but is a li le tentative
with his swing
VERDICT
He needs something that
fi ts his slower swing speed,
a softer ball that will fl oat
a bit and stay in the air as
long as possible.
BRIDGESTONE TOUR
B330-RX
BRITISH OPEN, JULY 15–22: Keen to
take in the action at the Royal Lytham
& St. Annes Golf Club? Fly to the U.K.
on United, off ering daily nonstop
service to Belfast, Edinburgh, Glasgow,
London, Birmingham and Manchester
from New York/Newark; to London
from six of United’s U.S. hubs; and to
Manchester from Washington Dulles.
WALTER, 18,
a strong, lean college
swimmer with a
loopy swing and
a wicked slice
VERDICT
Until he gets the right clubs
and the right instruction to
work on the slice, he needs
the lowest-spin ball he can
get his hands on.
There’s no shame in less
backspin, since it also
means less sidespin.
TITLEIST NXT
THE DUCK
TOM, 51,
who once had a reliable
fade that took a smidge
off the distance, so he
worked to develop a draw
and fell into a pa ern
of duck-hooking when
he swung hard. Now he
swings very slowly.
VERDICT
He needs lessons, but in the
meantime he should ask
for the softest performance
ball available, one geared to
a swing speed slower than
100 mph.
BRIDGESTONE TOUR
B330-RX
PGA CHAMPIONSHIP, AUG. 9–12:
As South Carolina’s Kiawah Island
Golf Resort plays host to this legendary
tournament, nearby Charleston
International Airport features daily
nonstop service on United from its
hubs at Chicago, Houston, Washington
Dulles and New York/Newark. For more
information, go to united.com.
JUNE 2012
95
Parting
Shot
On Golf and Greed:
A Brief Meditation
When I play well, I fi nd that I stick
around in the clubhouse parking
lot just a little longer than I need to.
I’ll let the sun roast me a bit more,
or lean against the trunk of my
car to inventory my pockets as if I
might actually fi nd something useful,
instead of dimes and old tees.
It’s greed that keeps me there, the
desire for a little more, the hope
that, in teasing out those last few
moments, the smallish adventures
of a good round will stay closer to
the narrative heart, to the stories I
tell and the way I remember.
Taking the time to play golf is
a kind of assertion. By playing 18,
you are wandering away from life,
off the grid, departing things you
might otherwise know to be good
and wholesome and needed. Yes,
there are plenty of golfers who play
out of blind habit, but most of the
ones I know play with this unique
thread of greed in their hearts.
It’s not the Seven Deadly Sins
sort of greed, nor the Gordon
Gekko kind. No, this greed says
that you deserve some extra time
with a puzzle, with the ups and
downs of the game, the landscape.
It allows that walking
does not have to end at the water
cooler and that driving isn’t always
about interstates. It feels good to
hammer a 3-wood off the deck,
to descend steep and swift on a
bunker shot, to focus the entirety
of your mind on a single putt.
Is it greedy to want to learn from
a game? Sure it is. Off the links,
there’s work to be done, mouths
to feed, wrongs to be righted. But
you’ll learn about those things
whether you want to or not. Golf,
on the other hand, is an opt-in
kind of learning: a selective greed
that, if it teaches you well, demonstrates
that time isn’t money.
Time is just time, a gift you give
yourself. And golf, which demands
so much time, gives so much in
return. —TOM CHIARELLA

90
DAY ONE
Communing with art
at the Rothko Chapel
93
DAY TWO
Raising a glass at
Houston’s oldest bar
95
DAY THREE
Frolicking outdoors
at Discovery Green
96 JUNE 2012 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM
THREE PERFECT DAYS || QUITO
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THREE PERFECT DAYS || QUITO
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SQUARE ROOTS The historic
Plaza de la Independencia,
with La Virgen de Quito atop
El Panecillo in the distance
THREE PERFECT DAYS
99
DAY ONE
Visiting three of
the city’s most
glorious churches
102
DAY TWO
Taking in epic
murals at Capilla
del Hombre
104
DAY THREE
Shopping for
Andean cra s
in Otavalo
QUITO
96 JUNE 2012 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

QUITO || THREE PERFECT DAYS
A place of deep history and
staggering views, one of UNESCO’s
fi rst World Heritage cities has been
fl ying under travelers’ radar for a
long time. But thanks to a growing
economy and a renewed focus on
preservation and development,
that’s about to change.
STORY AND PHOTOGRAPHS
BY SAM POLCER
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C CCOM
OM O OM O M • • J MAR MA MAR MARCH JUN JU JUN JU JUN JU JUN JU JUN JU JUN JU JUN JU JUN JUNE JUN JU JUN JU JUN JU JUN JU JUN J JUN JU JUNE MARCH U UN U UN U UN U UN U UN U UN U AR N E2 EE2 EE2 E E2 EE2 E E2 E EE2 E CH C 2 2201
2 2201
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2 01 0 2
97

WALK THE STREETS
of Quito, and you’ll fi nd
the least-altered historical
center in Latin America,
with scores of dazzling
churches, colonial mansions
and museums that
celebrate a culture going
back thousands of years—
from pre-Incan peoples
to Spanish colonists to
the present day. Head
north, and you’ll discover
sleek new development,
cosmopolitan restaurants
and cu ing-edge nightlife.
Talk to anyone, and you’ll
hear a similar refrain, “You
should have seen this
before,” u ered with a hint
of wonderment.
Quito is changing. Has
changed. Not long ago, the
city’s treasured colonial
district was inundated
with street vendors and
plagued by poverty, but
thanks to Ecuador’s vast
energy resources and
growing economy, as well
as an increased investment
in its heritage, things have
improved dramatically
for this city set high in the
Andes, ringed by volcanoes
and jungle. No longer
merely the gateway to the
Galápagos or the Amazon,
Quito today is safer, cleaner
and more vibrant, brimming
with cultural riches,
a place where history plays
out in real time every day.
98 JUNE 2012 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

DAY ONE | When you wake at Casa Gangotena, the
fi rst thing you see is a mural depicting a colonial-era
hunting scene that stretches around the top of your
room. It’s just one of the details of this mid-1920s mansion
that the owners have done a magnifi cent job of
restoring, along with soaring windows, tin ceilings,
antique mirrors and friezes. It’s easy to see why, in less than a year of operation, the
immaculate hotel has become a symbol of Quito’s revitalization.
After a satisfying breakfast of coffee, fresh fruit and tamales generously filled
with rice, pork, bananas and eggs, you head to the lobby. A bellhop walks you out into
the delightful weather—“It’s like this all year,” he brags—and waves you off in the direction
of the expansive Plaza San Francisco. You follow the sound of church bells to the
Iglesia de San Francisco, the oldest of Quito’s 40 storied colonial churches, on the northwest
side of the plaza. Construction on the church began in 1535, a year a er the city was
founded by the Spanish, and legend has it that the builder, Francisco Cantuña, made a deal
with the devil to complete it but was able to
save his soul by leaving a single stone missing.
QUITO, BY THE NUMBERS
YEAR
FOUNDED
1534
POPULATION
in the metro area
2.2 M
SIZE
in square miles
4,633
ELEVATION
in feet
9,200
MILES FROM
EQUATOR
15
VOLCANOES
in the region
12
PAINTING THE TOWN
A mural-wrapped room
at Casa Gangotena; right,
empanaditas at Tianguez
Café; opposite, the Iglesia de
San Francisco
SPECIES OF
BIRDS
in the metro area
542
CHURCHES
in the colonial district
40
QUITO || THREE PERFECT DAYS
HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • JUNE 2012 99

THREE PERFECT DAYS || QUITO
As you wander around in search of the telltale
gap, you keep ge ing distracted by the
ceiling, which is covered with angels’ faces
in the shape of li le suns. A worshipper
informs you that the Spanish used this
kind of imagery to entice the indigenous
people to convert to Christianity (not that
most of them had a choice—the church
also is rumored to be built on top of an
Incan temple).
You then walk a couple of blocks to
the baroque masterpiece Iglesia de la
Compañía de Jesús, which is Quito’s most
iconic church, largely due to its golddrenched
interior. An amalgam of Moorish
design, Christian and native imagery and
international art styles—even Chinese
—covers every inch of the place. The mural
in your hotel room looks like an impressionist
sketch in comparison with the
detail work here.
Close by, perched atop a short but
steep, steep hill, is the Basílica del Voto
Nacional, the largest Gothic cathedral in
South America. Though modeled a er the
cathedral in Bourges, France, it has local
fl avor: A careful look reveals gargoyles in
the shape of armadillos,
iguanas and tortoises.
From the main tower you
spot La Virgen de Quito,
a winged Madonna
standing watch from a
distant hilltop, and you
can’t help thinking that a
cable stretched between
here and there would
make for the mother of
all ziplines.
Lunch is, thankfully,
downhill. El Rincón de
Cantuña, like many
businesses in this part
of the city, occupies the
covered yet airy court-
GETTING FRESH One of the many juice stalls serving rejuvenating
concoctions at Santa Clara Market; opposite, a plate of
shrimp, rice and plantains at El Rincón de Cantuña, a restaurant
in one of the interior courtyards at the hotel Patio Andaluz
yard of a colonial mansion. Following a glass of guanabana juice (owing to Ecuador’s
bounty of fresh fruits and vegetables, juice is off ered at the start of almost every meal),
you polish off a cast-iron skillet of shrimp, rice and plantains. You’re brought back from
the brink of siesta by a good, strong cup of Ecuadorian coff ee.
A er a stroll through the Plaza de la Independencia, the bustling heart of colonial
Quito, you head to nearby Casa del Alabado. The museum, a stucco-walled 17th-century
mansion, houses three families’ collections of pre-Columbian artifacts. You’re struck
by the work of Ecuador’s early peoples, for whom it seems a bowl wasn’t a bowl unless
there was a jaguar or a shaman’s face carved into it. Among the highlights is a stone
bench called a “seat of power,” which once conveyed upon its si er
a status higher than that of tribe members who sat on the ground.
You feel ready for your own seat of power or, say, ma ress of
rejuvenation, so you repair to your hotel for some rest. Quito’s
altitude is not to be taken lightly.
At dinnertime, you call for a taxi to bring you to Octava de Corpus,
a restaurant with an assortment of warmly lit rooms fi lled with
proprietor Jaime Burgos’ eclectic art collection. Burgos, who
circulates among the tables greeting regulars and insisting that
newcomers practice their Spanish, recommends the Neapolitan
chicken. You give it a try, along with an Argentine malbec. Neither
disappoints. The romantic, homey atmosphere in the 150-year-old
house makes the evening pass quickly—too quickly. You toast your
host one last time, and go.
LIVESTOCK EXCHANGE
The trading fl oor of the NYSE has nothing on
the sensory overload at Otavalo’s animal market
If you fi nd yourself on the main highway near Otavalo, a
town about 60 miles north of Quito, early on a Saturday
morning, follow your ears (and your nose) to the weekly
animal market. There, creatures ranging from adorable
guinea pigs (don’t get too attached—they’re a delicacy) to
llamas and horses form a snorting, squealing, braying dust
cloud of commerce. Listen, too, for the sounds of Quechua,
the native tongue of the Otavaleños, as they sell or buy and
load the animals onto trucks. Just be careful where you
step—that isn’t ticker tape on the ground.
100 JUNE 2012 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

THREE PERFECT DAYS || QUITO
LOCAL KNOWLEDGE THE INSIDE SCOOP FROM THOSE IN THE KNOW ILLUSTRATIONS BY PETER JAMES FIELD
Belén Polanco
RECEPTION MANAGER,
PLAZA GRANDE HOTEL
“There’s a new train you can take from
the city to some of the villages around
here. Go to Machachi, and you’ll be
back by 4 p.m. People will wait for
you at the station—some kids playing
music with traditional dances, that
kind of thing. It’s a nice little city.”
David Yunes
NATURALIST GUIDE AND OWNER
OF BEE FARM UGSHAPAMBA
“Go barhopping in the Mariscal area.
We call that area ‘Gringoland,’ so
there are a lot of really good spots.
I like Cats, a bar with good old
rock ’n’ roll. It has a very nice
ambience, and great food. I like
the shrimp Provençal.”
Margara Anhalzer
OWNER AND PRESIDENT,
OLGA FISCH FOLKLORE
“I recommend Petit Pigalle, a quaint
French-owned restaurant in Mariscal.
It’s very small, with very tasty food.
The chef and his wife serve you. Try the
duck. Or go to La Gloria, in Floresta.
Everything is delicious, but the fi let
mignon with coff ee sauce—mmm.”
HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • JUNE 2012 101

THREE PERFECT DAYS || QUITO
DAY TWO | For breakfast, you walk across the plaza to Tianguez Café, a fair-trade cra s
store and restaurant tucked into the catacombs beneath the Iglesia de San Francisco, where
you explore a labyrinth of narrow hallways lined with handmade masks and fi gurines. You
buy a tiny bird carved out of “vegetable ivory,” which is made from the nut of the tagua
palm tree, and then se le down for a plate of veggie empanaditas and a mug of coca leaf
tea. The la er, a gringo favorite, is known to ward off altitude sickness. While it works its
magic, you hail a taxi and venture north.
You let yourself out at the fl agship location of Olga Fisch Folklore, a shop selling tapestries,
sculptures, wall art, clothing and jewelry by local artists. Fisch, a Hungarian who
immigrated here in 1939, saw great value in Ecuador’s rich heritage of cra s and became the
country’s fi rst and most infl uential art promoter. Her granddaughter, Margara Anhalzer,
who runs the place, invites you upstairs to check out the private museum, where a small
but extensive collection of pre-Columbian artifacts and post-colonial art testifi es to Fisch’s
love for her adopted country.
You wend your way several blocks to Galería Ecuador Gourmet for yet another wellcurated
collection—this time, of locally produced coff ee, chocolate, liquor, sauces and other
tempting food items. You pick up some bars of dark chocolate as, er, souvenirs. Right as
you start tearing open a wrapper, you realize it’s lunchtime.
Luckily, just steps away is the Mediterranean-fusion eatery La Boca del
Lobo. Filled with chrome and neon and pumping dance music, it’s the polar
opposite of the other restaurants
you’ve been to so far. In
fact, if it weren’t for the fl oorto-ceiling
windows with a view
of Foch Plaza, you’d think you
were in Miami at 3 a.m. But it’s
the a ernoon, so, despite the
extensive and imaginative
cocktail list, you responsibly
order “Zucchini Lamborgini”
(sliced zucchini and artichoke
dip) and “Moussaka Kan”
(moussaka made with eggplant
tempura). Then you call for a
mojito anyway.
Next, you grab a taxi to
Capilla del Hombre to take in
the powerfully severe work
of Ecuadorian artist Oswaldo
Guayasamín. A contemporary
of Diego Rivera and a keen
scholar of South American
history, Guayasamín made
paintings that were o en epic
in subject and scale. He was
particularly concerned with
the plight of the continent’s
indigenous people, which made
him a national hero before he
passed away in 1999. You take
your time exploring the cavernous
space, and are transfi xed by
Toro y Condor, a massive mural
depicting a pre-Columbian
Peruvian ritual in which a
condor was lashed to the back of a bull.
You have reservations at the upscale
Zazu, which was the first of a veritable
invasion of Peruvian-themed restaurants
in Quito. You order chef Rafael Perez’s pork
confi t taquitos, followed by a mammoth
seafood plate featuring grilled grouper. You
may have skipped the beef dish, but there
is something unmistakably condor-like in
how you go about a acking the seafood.
Per your waiter’s recommendation,
you take a quick taxi ride to Guápulo, a
hip neighborhood and street-art mecca
perched on a hillside on the eastern edge
of town. You duck into Ananké, a bar and
pizzeria with a ramshackle bohemian vibe
and oversize, colorful works by local pho-
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BROAD STROKES Capilla del
Hombre, home to artist Oswaldo
Guayasamín’s giant murals, with
Toro y Condor in the background
tographers. Couples canoodle
in darkened corners; obscure
electronic music pipes through
102 JUNE 2012 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

DAY AY ONE
ONE
DAY AY TWO
DAY AY THREE
THREE
Bahía de Caráquez
Nueva York
Basílica del Voto Nacional
Ambato
El Rincón de Cantuña
Selva Alegre
Av. Universitaria
Asuncion
Pan-America n Hwy.
Av. Mariana de Jesús
Av. Cristóbal Colón
Av. Gral Eloy Alfaro
QUITO || THREE PERFECT DAYS
0 1 mile
HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • JUNE 2012 103
Av. America
Av. 10 de Agosto
Av. Gran Colombia
Casa del Alabado
Iglesia de San Francisco/Tianguez Cafe
Iglesia de la Compañía de Jesús
Casa Gangotena
Octavo de Corpus
Pim’s Panecillo
DAY ONE
Casa Gangotena Bolivar OE6-41 at
Cuenca; Tel: 400-8000
Iglesia de San Francisco Cuenca 477
at Sucre; Tel: 228-1124
Iglesia de la Compañía de Jesús
García Moreno at Sucre; Tel: 258-1895
Basílica del Voto Nacional Carchi 122
at Venezuela; Tel: 258-3891
El Rincón de Cantuña (Patio Andaluz)
García Moreno N6-52 at Olmedo;
Tel: 228-0830
Casa del Alabado Cuenca 335
between Bolívar and Rocafuerte;
Tel: 228-0940
Octava de Corpus 8 Junín E2-167;
Tel: 295-2989
La Ronda
Santa Clara Market
La Boca del Lobo
Av. J.M. Velasco Ibarra
Pan-American Hwy.
Av. Rio Amazonas
Av. 12 de Octubre
DAY TWO
Tianguez Café Plaza de San Francisco;
Tel: 257-0233
Olga Fisch Folklore Av. Colón E10-53
at Caamaño; Tel: 254-1315
Galería Ecuador Gourmet Reina
Victoria N24-263 at Lizardo García;
Tel: 255-8440
La Boca del Lobo José Calama E7-07
at Reina Victoria; Tel: 223-4083
Capilla del Hombre Mariano Calvache
2458 at Lorenzo Chávez; Tel: 244-8492
Zazu Mariano Aguilera 331 at La
Padera; Tel: 254-3559
Ananké Camino de Orellana 781,
Guápulo; Tel: 255-1421
Av. de la República
Galeria
Ecuador
Gourmet
Olga Fisch
Folklore
Ladrón de Guevara
Zazu
Av. 6 de Diciembre
Otavalo/Peguche/
Hacienda Pinsaqui
Capilla del Hombre
Ananké
LA IGLESIA DE LA COMPAÑÍA DE JESÚS
Nueva Via Orient al
DAY THREE
Santa Clara Market Versalles at
Ramírez Dávalos
Otavalo/Peguche 60 miles
north of Quito
Hacienda Pinsaquí Kilometer 5,
Pan-American Highway North, Otavalo;
Tel: (06) 294-6116
Pim’s Panecillo Melchor
Aymerich, Cima del Panecillo;
Tel: 317-0878/317-0162
La Ronda

THREE TH T RE R E PE PPERFECT RF RFEC EC ECT DA DAYS
YS || QU QQUITO IT ITO
CULTURAL FABRIC This page, clockwise from top left, a Corpus Christi garment
at Casa del Alabado; José Luis Pichamba demonstrating one of his pan fl utes; pork
confi t taquitos at Zazu; opposite, the Basílica del Voto Nacional
THREE PERFECT DAYS || QUITO
the speakers. It could pass for a European lo , but as you
se le into a table by the window and take in the view of
the Iglesia de Guápulo, past colonial houses arrayed along
narrow cobblestone streets, you realize you couldn’t be
anywhere but here.
DAY THREE | You’re up early, and your new addiction to
fresh juice made from fruit you’ve never heard of lures
you to the capacious Santa Clara Market, an easy drive in
your rental car. Local shoppers are here for meats, produce,
fl owers and spices, but you make a beeline for a juice stall
and order a rejuvenating concoction containing alfalfa, egg
and naranjilla juice. A er downing it where you stand, you
join diners huddled over steaming plates of chicken and
rice at one of the endless countertop eateries.
While Quito has seen an explosion of high-end brandname
stores, along with curated shops like Tianguez and
Olga Fisch, the real deal is a 90-minute drive up the Pan-
American Highway, in a town called Otavalo. There, the
Otavaleños, an industrious ethnic group known around
the world for Andean handicra s, have created a browser’s
paradise. At Poncho Plaza, you wind through a maze of
vendors hawking vibrant tapestries, hammock chairs,
armadillo-shell guitars and herbal remedies. You come to
a stall covered with tiny paintings on drumlike squares
of canvas, pick out the brightest one and break for lunch.
Just up the road is the 300-year-old Hacienda Pinsaquí,
once the site of a textile manufacturer and now a 30-suite
hotel and restaurant. You order potato soup and the
regional specialty carne colorada: meat (in this case,
104 JUNE 2012 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

TALK OF THE TOWN Old-timers gather at the Plaza de la Independencia to shoot the breeze
pork) marinated in a mixture that includes
ground achiote, giving the dish its red color
as well as its name. You wolf it down.
A mile north in the village of Peguche,
you meet José Catacachi, an Otavaleño
who demonstrates a traditional loomweaving
technique and shows you how
he makes dye from the blood of a cactus
worm. Around the corner, musician and
cra sman José Luis Pichamba plays from
his collection of handmade Andean musical
instruments, and lashes together a pitchperfect
pan fl ute for you in fi ve minutes.
You try to improvise a few quick “melodies”;
it doesn’t go so well. The look on Pichamba’s
face confi rms this, so you bid him farewell
and drive back to Quito.
Dinner tonight is at Pim’s Panecillo, where
the menu is almost as expansive as the restaurant’s
view of the city from just below
La Virgen de Quito. You secure a counter seat
by the window and opt for shrimp ceviche
and locrito, a simple Ecuadorian potatoand-cheese
soup that goes well with sliced
avocado. Both dishes are served in typical
Andean fashion, with popcorn, roasted corn
and ají, a hot sauce, on the side.
Dropping the car off at the hotel, you
stroll to nearby La Ronda, a narrow, sloping
pedestrian thoroughfare, where the strains
of live corta vena music (literally, “vein cutting,”
so named for its melancholy melodies
and lyrics) fl ow from bars and cafés that
seem hand-carved into the Spanish
architecture. One of colonial Quito’s most
privileged streets, it became a bohemian
center in the 1930s, then hit the skids in the
’70s before being reborn in recent years as
a nightlife hub.
It’s a brisk evening, so you pop into an
unassuming spot on the corner and order
a mug of canelazo, a hot, fruity herbal drink
o en spiked with aguardiente, a sugarcane
alcohol. You decide there’s probably nothing
be er in the world for shaking off a chill. As
the warmth washes over you, a Quiteña at
an adjacent table nods your way. “Buenas
noches,” she says, as revelers stream past on
the cobblestone streets. “You have found one
of our huecas—one of our authentic places.”
You want to tell her that you hope it stays
this way, that authenticity can be a tricky
thing to hold on to in a city changing this
quickly. But you simply raise your glass and
smile. Quito seems to be on the right track.
From now on, Hemispheres executive editor
SAM POLCER is buying only dinnerware with
jaguars on it.
ON WINGS
AND PRAYERS
Quito’s guardian is
a true original
The 148-foot-tall aluminum
statue La Virgen de Quito has
watched over colonial Quito
from the top of El Panecillo—
a hill that was once an Incan
sun-worshipping site—since
1976. Spanish artist Agustín
de la Herrán modeled the
statue after a much smaller
version in the Iglesia de San
Francisco by 18th-century
Ecuadorian sculptor Bernardo
de Legarda. Quito’s
Madonna stands atop a
globe and is, like many
classic representations of
the Madonna, stepping on a
snake. Her wings, however,
set her apart; it is said that
there are no other Madonnas
this size anywhere in the
world with them. A plaque on
the monument explains that
she represents the “Woman
of the Apocalypse”—Mary as
an angel—from the Book of
Revelation. Which makes her
heavy metal in more ways
than one.
BOARDING PASS Want to sample traditional and modern South American cuisine, browse for Andean handicrafts and explore Quito’s
wealth of colonial churches and fascinating museums? United can take you straight to Ecuador’s vibrant capital, with daily nonstop service
on a Boeing 737 from Houston’s Bush Intercontinental Airport. Go to united.com to book your fl ight and get detailed schedule information.
106 JUNE 2012 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

Send more than a
postcard from Mexico.
Only AT&T has the
best global coverage.
att.com/global
More phones that work
in more countries.
Best coverage worldwide claim based on global coverage of U.S. carriers. Activation of international service required. International roaming rates apply. Availability, quality of coverage & services
while roaming are not guaranteed. For countries, rates, and additional details, see att.com/global. Screen images simulated. ©2012 AT&T Intellectual Property. Service provided by AT&T Mobility.
All rights reserved. AT&T and the AT&T logo and all other marks contained herein are trademarks of AT&T Intellectual Property and/or AT&T affiliated companies.

EXPERIENCE
90% NOISE CANCELLATION
Find your QuietPoint ® . Look to these active noise-cancelling
headphones for a remarkable 90% reduction in background
noise. And Audio-Technica’s stunningly clear, high-resolution
sound. Wherever your travels take you, experience more.
ATH-ANC7b QuietPoint ®
Active Noise-Cancelling
Over-ear Headphones
ATH-ANC23 QuietPoint ®
Active Noise-Cancelling
In-ear Headphones
Now available at:
InMotion Entertainment, Airport Wireless, Offi ceMax,
& other authorized dealers.

SPECIAL ADVERTISING PROMOTION
Airports Step Up
to Passengers’
Shopping Desires
DESPITE TOUGH ECONOMIC TIMES, U.S.
PASSENGERS ARE SPENDING MORE AND MORE
AT AIRPORTS. AND AIRPORTS ACROSS NORTH
AMERICA ARE WAKING UP TO THE OPPORTUNITY.
Whether you view it as an act of escapism
or an essential part of your journey, airport
shopping is on the rise across North America.
Traditionally one of the smallest regions for
travel retail despite the busy air-travel market,
airports across the U.S. and Canada are finally
beginning to take their fair share of a global
business worth more than $40 billion last year.
That’s good news for passengers and for
airports. For passengers, more choice of
shops and restaurants means a better travel
experience. And for airports, growing retail
revenues allow even greater investment
in important infrastructure, including
new terminals and runways, to further
improve the travel network.
“More and more passengers are
arriving early to the airports to shop,
dine and enjoy a unique experience while
waiting for their flights,” says Westfield
Concessions Management Vice President
Gerry Cecci. Westfield manages retail
for 10 U.S. airports including New York
JFK, Los Angeles, Boston and Miami, and
Cecci reports that passenger spending is
increasing across its network.
“There are multiple factors driving the
increased spending,” says Cecci. “Better
product offering is one key component,
as well as additional space allocation
and the increasing amount of time
passengers spend in the airport once
they pass the security checkpoint.”
These statements are those of the
advertiser and not of United.

SPECIAL ADVERTISING PROMOTION
Westfield runs retail at United
Airlines terminals at Newark Liberty
(Terminal C) and George Bush Houston
Intercontinental (Terminals B and E). At
both locations it has recently upgraded
its offerings.
Cecci says, “In Houston E, celebrity
chef Cat Cora opened a restaurant last fall
and has been a big hit with passengers.
In Newark C, an outstanding retail lineup
features Coach, Hugo Boss and MAC, just
to name a few.”
Airport shopping is no longer just
about the traditional items. While liquor,
perfumes and cosmetics continue to
be big sellers, more recent trends show
airports developing a real sense of place.
It can be hard to tell one airport from
another at times, but regional and local
brands allow them to distinguish themselves and offer
something unique and interesting to travelers.
That is a key aim for Los Angeles International airport,
which is “putting the LA back into LAX” with a huge
retail redevelopment this year. The airport will open no
fewer than 60 new retail and dining outlets across four
terminals by the end of the year—many of them being
well-known local brands.
A prime example is the trendy fashion store Kitson
LA, recently opened at Los Angeles Terminal 7. The
shop, based on the original popular downtown store,
features a full range of clothing and accessories,
and makes a strong reference to its airport location
with photographs of celebrities wearing Kitson LA
accessories at the airport.
Further openings later this year will reinforce that
local flavor. In Terminal 7, outlets will include the
Wolfgang Puck Express restaurant, ¡Lotería! Grill by chef
Jimmy Shaw, and Seven Grand and BLD from chef Neal
Dufry Duty Free, Edmonton International
Wings, Edmonton International
Chili’s Express, Edmonton International

The Future Is Landing at LAX
New restaurants and shops
Improved ticketing and lounge areas
Brand new International Terminal
Arriving in 2013
LAX is undergoing the most extensive modernization program in its
84 year history. New facilities include local themed dining options and
world-class shopping opportunities, updated seating areas and new
check-in facilities — all designed to refl ect what is uniquely Los Angeles.
Scan for more
information
Newly Expanded US Departures lounge.

SPECIAL ADVERTISING PROMOTION
The New TBIT Concourse, LAX
Fraser. Other concepts will include The Counter (Custom Built
Burgers), Yogurtland, Klatch Koffee and Bartels’ B Grill by
BOA Steakhouse.
Improved dining options are an important part of the new
airport offerings, Cecci confirms. “The biggest trend is on the
food and beverage side. Elements such as freshly prepared
foods, healthy choices, display cooking and open kitchens
featuring food as ’theater‘ are all driving merchandising and
design trends today.”
But it is not just the biggest airports that are trying to entice
passengers to spend more. In Canada, for example, Edmonton
International Airport in Alberta recently expanded its U.S.
departures area. The new area is three time the size of the old
one—taking into account a record 9% increase in departing
U.S. passengers last year—and is designed to make departure
easier, quicker and more comfortable.
Edmonton’s new U.S. departures area features nine outlets,
including Red Canoe, Artizan, Chili’s Express, Starbucks and
Dufry Duty Free. But that is just part of a larger ambition. In
September the airport will open its expanded International/
Domestic area, with a further nine shops. In total, 34 new
outlets will be added this year.
Edmonton Concessions Development Manager Carmen
Donnelly says, “The new addition to the terminal offers more
places to relax, more dining options and more places to shop.
The region can take pride in knowing that the newly expanded
EIA is a beacon of Edmonton’s growing stature, ambition
and progress.”
Amid the new trends for local and regional brands, celebrity
dining and healthy eating, it is worth remembering that the
core travel retail offerings remain an important draw for many
passengers. For many of the world’s most famous brands, the
airport environment is a perfect shop window through which
they can promote themselves to a cosmopolitan captive
audience with time to spare.
No brand has done this more successfully than New York–
based cosmetics, skincare and perfume giant Estée Lauder.
The company, which generated global sales of $2.25 billion
in the first three months of 2012 alone, is an omnipresent
staple of the airport retail offerings. But Estée Lauder does not
use airports just to promote its products. The company has
seen strong growth in airport sales over recent years, and has
invested heavily at airports as a real sales channel. Indeed,
many of its classic brands—including Advanced Night Repair,
which celebrates its 30th anniversary this year—owe their
global success to consistently strong airport sales as well as the
good exposure that airport stores offer.
Whether you are looking for the best-known global brands,
like Estée Lauder; something more unusual to remind you of
a special visit; or just a good place to eat before a flight, the
message is clear. Airports are increasingly keen to give you
what you want.

Visit www.GetSeV.com/AIR to explore our full line
and SAVE 20% OFF *
the outfi t shown on this page
Offer valid until 07/15/2012 *SEE WEBSITE FOR PROMO CODE
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Scott Jordan, CEO and co-Founder was a fanny pack-wearing Tourist before he invented the SCOTTEVEST clothing line. Now he dresses like a Traveler.
OUR SPECIALLY-ENGINEERED POCKETS HOLD ALL THIS AND MORE... INVISIBLY!

© 2012 United Air Lines, Inc. All rights reserved.
MileagePlus.
Voted “Best Frequent Flyer Program”
8 years in a row.
MileagePlus has been named the world’s Best Frequent Flyer Program by Global Traveler
magazine for the 8th year in a row. And now the best is even better. With United’s expanded
airline network and our 2012 Premier ® program, MileagePlus gives you more benefits,
features and ways to earn and use award miles than ever before. To learn more,
go to mileageplus.com.
The world’s most rewarding loyalty program. SM
As voted by the readers of Global Traveler magazine;
www.globaltravelerusa.com.

Entertainment
& Information
ENTERTAINMENT
116 DIRECTV®
118 Film & Television
122 Audio Programming
124 Crossword
126 Sudoku
INFORMATION
128 Safety & Travel Assistance
131 Route Maps
136 Customs & Immigration
137 Our Fleet
138 Terminal Diagrams
142 MileagePlus
143 Alliances & Partnerships
156 Food & Beverages
?

ENTERTAINMENT
DIRECTV®
What you want to watch
OVER 100 CHANNELS
You can get more than 100 of your
favorite TV channels. Movies, sports,
family programming—we have the best
in entertainment.
Your favorite TV channels
INCLUDING:
NETWORKS
NEWS
SPORTS
ENTERTAINMENT
FAMILY
HOW TO USE
1. Swipe your credit card* to begin.
2. Select your channel or movie and start watching.
3. Listen using your own headset or feel free to use
the complimentary headset provided on board. Your
purchase is good for the entire fl ight, even when the
aircraft door is open before takeoff , and you can turn
the TV on and off throughout your fl ight.
* MasterCard, Visa, American Express or Discover accepted.
TV and movies are complimentary in fi rst class.
DIRECTV® IN FLIGHT allows you to select from
more than 100 channels of live television along
with a full slate of blockbuster Hollywood movies,
sitcoms and dramas. Purchase DIRECTV® and
stay entertained for your entire fl ight.
MOVIES
Choose from fi ve Hollywood movies: Journey
2: The Mysterious Island (above), Joyful Noise,
Due Date, Clash of the Titans and Scooby-Doo.
Or, browse for movies on live TV.
A&E 265
ABC FAMILY 311
ANIMAL 282
BABY 293
BBCA 264
BET 329
BIG TEN 610
BIO 266
BLOOMBERG 353
BOOM 298
BRAVO 237
CARTOON 296
CBS 390
CENTRIC 330
CHILLER 257
CLOO 308
CMT 327
CNBC 355
CNN 202
COMEDY 249
COOK 232
C-SPAN 350
C-SPAN2 351
CW 394
DISCOVERY 278
SATELLITE
COVERAGE AREA
Since the programming
is live from DIRECTV®,
a fl ight may take you out
of the satellite coverage
area. If this happens,
prerecorded TV shows
and movies will still be
available.
DISNEY 290
DISNEY XD 292
DIY 230
E! 236
ESPN 206
ESPN CLASSIC 614
ESPN2 209
ESPNEWS 207
ESPNU 208
FOOD 231
FOX 398
FOX BUSINESS 359
FOX MOVIE 258
FOX NEWS 360
FOX SOCCER 619
FUEL 618
FX 248
GALA 404
GOL TV 426
GOLF 218
GOSPEL 338
GREEN 286
GSN 233
H2 271
HALLMARK 312
PLAYBACK ON CHANNELS 6–10
From three ESPN Films “30 for 30” sports
documentaries to an “NCIS: L.A.” box set—
plus sitcoms, variety shows and Disney programs—there’s
always something good on.
HGTV 229
HISTORY 269
HLN 204
HRTV HORSE 602
HUB 294
INVESTIGATION 285
LEARNING 280
LIFETIME 252
LIFETIME MOVIE 253
LINK 375
MILITARY 287
MLB NETWORK 213
MSNBC 356
MTV 331
MTV2 333
NAT GEO 276
NBC 392
NBC SPORTS 603
NICK 299
NICK JR. 301
NICK TOON 302
NRB 378
OUTDOOR 606
OVATION 274
OXYGEN 251
Available on select 737 aircraft
RURAL TV 345
SCIENCE 284
SOAP 262
SPEED 607
SPIKE 241
SPORTSMAN 605
STYLE 235
SYFY 242
TBS 247
TEEN NICK 303
TENNIS 217
TNT 245
TRAVEL 277
TRUTV 246
TURNER MOVIE 256
TV GUIDE 273
TV LAND 304
TWC 362
UNI 402
UNI SPORTS 625
USA 242
VH1 335
VH1 CLASSIC 337
WGN 307
WORD 373
Exact channel numbers and programming schedules are subject to change. DIRECTV® service is not available on fl ights outside the continental United States.
The signal may be lost in turbulence and/or if banking of the aircraft is required. DIRECTV® and United Airlines are not responsible for interruptions of service that are beyond our control including, without limitation, acts of nature,
power failure or any other cause. ©2012 DIRECTV® Inc. DIRECTV® and the Cyclone Design logo are registered trademarks of DIRECTV® Inc. All other trademarks and service marks are the property of their respective owners.
116 JUNE 2012 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

This year we celebrate our 15th Anniversary.
So on behalf of all our Member Airlines,
who are committed to working hard for you,
now and in the future,
I’d like to say thank you.
You’ve earned it.
Mark Schwab, CEO Star Alliance Services GmbH.
Come and celebrate with us from 14th May 2012 at staralliance.com
Information correct as at 14MAR12

ENTERTAINMENT
Film & Television
ENJOY THESE MOVIES AND
SHOWS ON THE MAIN SCREEN
Films DOMESTIC AND INTERNATIONAL FLIGHTS WILL SHOW THE FOLLOWING MOVIES
NORTH AMERICA
HAWAII
LATIN AMERICA
& CARIBBEAN
Game of Thrones Alcatraz
EASTBOUND WESTBOUND
JUNE
1-15 John Carter [T] Journey 2: The Mysterious Island
JUNE
16-30
Man on a Ledge [T] This Means War [T]
JUNE
1-15 Man on a Ledge [T] This Means War [T]
JUNE
16-30 John Carter [T] Journey 2: The Mysterious Island
SOUTHBOUND NORTHBOUND
JUNE
1-15 Journey 2: The Mysterious Island John Carter [T]
JUNE
16-30 This Means War [T] Man on a Ledge [T]
• Flights between Chicago or Denver and Hawaii will show both fi lms.
• Select fi lms are shown on fl ights within Micronesia and on intra-Asia fl ights on 737 and 777 aircraft.
FILMS ARE SHOWN on fl ights of three hours or
longer. Movies are available on most 737, 747,
757, 767, 777, A319 and A320 aircraft fl ights.
Schedules and selections are subject to change.
En el canal 10 encontrará películas y programas de
televisión disponibles en Español.
Television SELECT FLIGHTS MAY FEATURE THE FOLLOWING TELEVISION PROGRAMMING
30 Rock [T]
Pawn Stars
Big Bang Theory
Raising Hope
How I Met Your Mother [T]
NCIS: Los Angeles [T]
Alcatraz [T]
Sporting Greats: Michael Johnson
Suburgatory
Love @ First Byte [T]
Game of Thrones [T]
30 for 30
Absolutely Fabulous 20th Anniversary Special [T]
Bent [T]
House of Lies [T]
Up All Night
World’s Weirdest Restaurants
Parks and Recreation
House of Lies
[T] = Adult themes
118 JUNE 2012 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

MOST FILMS HAVE BEEN EDITED for
airline use. However, customer
discretion is still advised. Content
guidelines are provided as a courtesy
to help our customers decide
whether to view a fi lm.
CUSTOMERS ARE WELCOME to view
their own video entertainment aboard
a United aircraft as long as they are
able to show that the programming
has an MPAA rating of “R” or less.
John Carter [T]
A Civil War veteran (Taylor Kitsch) fi nds himself transported
to Mars, where he is taken prisoner by 12-foot-tall
barbarians. He manages to escape, only to encounter a
princess who is in desperate need of a savior.
FEATURING Taylor Kitsch, Lynn Collins, Willem Dafoe
DIRECTED BY Andrew Stanton
Man on a Ledge [T]
A wrongly imprisoned cop makes a daring bid for freedom
from a window ledge high above New York City, where he
coordinates the theft of a $30 million diamond—the same
gem he was convicted of stealing—to prove his innocence.
FEATURING Sam Worthington, Elizabeth Banks, Jamie Bell
DIRECTED BY Asger Leth
2 hr.
4 min.
1 hr.
42 min.
WHAT DO YOU THINK of our
programming? We’re open to
suggestions. Please send them
to play@united.com or visit
united.com/play.
Journey 2: The Mysterious Island
A small band of adventurers tracking a coded distress signal
stumbles upon an unmapped island of stunning beauty,
strange and menacing life forms, volcanoes, mountains of
gold—and more than one astonishing secret.
FEATURING Dwayne Johnson, Josh Hutcherson
DIRECTED BY Brad Peyton
This Means War [T]
The CIA’s two best operatives are inseparable partners and
close friends until they end up falling for the same woman,
which spurs them to turn their deadly skills and an array of
high-tech gadgetry on each other.
FEATURING Reese Witherspoon, Chris Pine, Tom Hardy
DIRECTED BY McG
HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • JUNE 2012 119
1 hr.
33 min.
1 hr.
38 min.

ENTERTAINMENT
Film & Television
THE FOLLOWING FILMS ARE AVAILABLE
ON INTERNATIONAL FLIGHTS
B747 Mainscreen Programming
U.K.
GERMANY
AUSTRALIA
JAPAN &
SOUTH KOREA
*JAPAN FLIGHTS ONLY
CHINA &
HONG KONG
THAILAND,
TAIWAN &
SINGAPORE
*THAILAND
AND SINGAPORE
FLIGHTS ONLY
Journey 2: The Mysterious Island 1 hr., 33 min.
This Means War [T] 1 hr., 38 min.
2 hr.
One for the Money [T] 1 hr., 31 min.
2 hr.
FROM U.S. TO U.S.
Journey 2: The Mysterious Island (G) 1 hr., 33 min.
This Means War (G) [T] 1 hr., 38 min.
2 hr.
One for the Money (G) [T] 1 hr., 31 min.
The Vow (G) [T] 1 hr., 44 min.
2 hr.
John Carter [T] 2 hr., 4 min.
2 hr.
Man on a Ledge [T] 1 hr., 42 min.
2 hr.
My Week With Marilyn [T] 1 hr., 39 min.
Big Miracle 1 hr., 47 min.
2 hr.
John Carter (J, K) [T] 2 hr., 4 min.
2 hr.
Man on a Ledge (J, K) [T] 1 hr., 42 min.
2 hr.
My Week With Marilyn (J, K) [T] 1 hr., 39 min.
Big Miracle (J, K) 1 hr., 47 min.
2 hr.
John Carter (C) [T] 2 hr., 4 min.
2 hr.
Man on a Ledge (C) [T] 1 hr., 42 min.
2 hr.
My Week With Marilyn (C) [T] 1 hr., 39 min.
Big Miracle (C) 1 hr., 47 min.
2 hr.
John Carter [T] 2 hr., 4 min.
Man on a Ledge [T] 1 hr., 42 min.
2 hr.
My Week With Marilyn [T] 1 hr., 39 min.
2 hr.
John Carter (G) [T] 2 hr., 4 min.
Man on a Ledge (G) [T] 1 hr., 42 min.
2 hr.
My Week With Marilyn (G) [T] 1 hr., 39 min.
Big Miracle (G) 1 hr., 47 min.
2 hr.
(G) German
(J) Japanese
(C) Chinese
(K) Korean
Journey 2: The Mysterious Island 1 hr., 33 min.
2 hr.
This Means War [T] 1 hr., 38 min.
2 hr.
One for the Money [T] 1 hr., 31 min.
The Vow [T] 1 hr., 44 min.
2 hr.
Journey 2: The Mysterious Island (J, K) 1 hr., 33 min.
2 hr.
This Means War (J, K) [T] 1 hr., 38 min.
2 hr.
One for the Money (K) [T] 1 hr., 31 min.
The Vow (J, K) [T] 1 hr., 44 min.
2 hr.
Journey 2: The Mysterious Island (C) 1 hr., 33 min.
2 hr.
This Means War (C) [T] 1 hr., 38 min.
2 hr.
One for the Money (C) [T] 1 hr., 31 min.
The Vow (C) [T] 1 hr., 44 min.
2 hr.
FROM JAPAN TO JAPAN
Sherlock Holmes: A Game of Shadows (J, C) [T] 2 hr., 9 min.
Mission Impossible: Ghost Protocol* (J, C) [T] 2 hr., 12 min.
2 hr.
INTERNATIONAL LANGUAGE TRACKS (G) Synchronisierte
Versionen finden Sie auf Kanal 2 und 3 (wenn verfügbar).
(J)
(C)
(K)
Hugo (J, C) 2 hr., 6 min.
We Bought a Zoo* (C) 2 hr., 6 min.
2 hr.
2 hr. = Two-hour block of television
[T] = Adult themes
120 JUNE 2012 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

DIGITAL MEDIA LOADING occurs between
the 25th of one month and the 5th of
the following month. As a result, please
understand if your fl ight features a
diff erent lineup before or after the start
of each month.
Big Miracle
To free whales trapped by ice, a reporter and his eco-activist
ex-girlfriend must rally an unlikely coalition of rescuers.
FEATURING Drew Barrymore, John Krasinski, Ted Danson
DIRECTED BY Ken Kwapis
My Week With Marilyn [T]
When Marilyn Monroe comes to England, a young Brit seizes
his chance to introduce the star to some local diversions.
FEATURING Michelle Williams, Dougray Scott
DIRECTED BY Simon Curtis
Sherlock Holmes: A Game of Shadows [T]
The master sleuth comes up against a brilliant new nemesis,
Professor Moriarty, who has a knack for staying a step ahead.
FEATURING Robert Downey Jr., Jude Law
DIRECTED BY Guy Ritchie
1 hr.
47 min.
1 hr.
39 min.
2 hr.
9 min.
Hugo
A boy who lives in the walls of a train station suddenly fi nds
his undercover life—and most precious secret—in jeopardy.
FEATURING Asa Butterfi eld, Ben Kingsley
DIRECTED BY Martin Scorsese
One for the Money [T]
Stephanie Plum joins her cousin’s bail-bond fi rm to make
some quick cash, but the job isn’t as easy as she’d thought.
FEATURING Katherine Heigl, Jason O’Mara
DIRECTED BY Julie Anne Robinson
The Vow [T]
A newlywed wakes up from a coma with no memory of her
husband. Undaunted, he sets out to woo her all over again.
FEATURING Rachel McAdams, Channing Tatum
DIRECTED BY Michael Sucsy
HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • JUNE 2012 121
2 hr.
6 min.
1 hr.
31 min.
1 hr.
44 min.

ENTERTAINMENT
Audio
Programming
Audio Mixes
Featuring songs by Roy
Orbison, Cream, Fleetwood
Mac and more
Featuring a chronology
of U2 songs
Featuring songs by DJ Fresh,
David Guetta, Duck Sauce
and more
Featuring songs by Johnny
Pacheco, Sergio Mendes
and more
Featuring songs by Miley
Cyrus, Justin Bieber, Selena
Gomez and more
Featuring songs by Meat Loaf,
Toto, Cheap Trick and more
Featuring compositions
performed by orchestras from
New York to Stuttgart
Featuring songs by Joss
Stone, Snow Patrol, Josh
Groban and more
Featuring songs by Paramore,
Foo Fighters, Sublime With
Rome and more
Featuring songs by
Adele, Beyoncé, Lady
Gaga and more
Download the complete playlist at www.united.com/play.
Featuring songs by
Duran Duran, Tiff any,
Starship and more
Featuring songs by Martina
McBride, Trace Adkins, Toby
Keith and more
Featuring songs by Ella
Fitzgerald, Julie London,
George Benson and more
Featuring songs by Akon,
Jordin Sparks, John Legend
and more
Featuring songs by Femi Kuti,
Annie Trousseau, Balkan Beat
Box and more
Featuring songs by Brian
Eno, Enya, Runestone
and more
Featuring Chinese popular
music including cantopop
and mandopop
Featuring songs by
Exile, AKB48, Sukima
Switch and more
Featuring songs by Elvis
Presley, Bobby Darin,
the Shirelles and more
122 JUNE 2012 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

Audio Channels by Aircra
CHANNEL 777
1
Movie
(English)
SELECT
A320
Movie
(English)
A319
& A320
Movie
(English)
2 Today’s hits Today’s hits Today’s hits
3 R&B R&B R&B
HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • JUNE 2012 123
747
Movie
(English)
Movie
(Dubbed)
Movie
(Dubbed)
737
& 757-300
Movie
(English)
757 & 767
Movie
(English)
Today’s hits Today’s hits
R&B R&B
4 Classical ’60s Classical Classical Classical Classical
5 Country Country Country Country Country Country
6 ’60s Classical — ’60s ’60s ’60s
7 ’70s ’70s — ’70s ’70s ’70s
8 ’80s ’80s — ’80s ’80s ’80s
9
10
From the
fl ight deck
Movie
(Dubbed)
From the
fl ight deck
Movie
(Dubbed)
From the
fl ight deck
Movie
(Dubbed)
From the fl ight
deck or R&B
Today’s hits
—
Movie
(Dubbed)
From the
fl ight deck or
Modern rock
Movie
(Dubbed)
11 Modern rock Modern rock ’60s Teen pop Modern rock —
12 Latin Latin ’70s World
CHANNEL 9 Listen for your fl ight number to hear live
communication between the fl ight deck and FAA air traffi c
control. This feature, unique to United, may not be available
on all fl ights, including oceanic crossings with limited audio
communication. Available at your captain’s discretion.
Latin or J-pop
on Micronesia
fl ights
13 Dance Dance ’80s J-pop — —
14 Ambient Ambient Modern rock C-pop — —
15 Artist spotlight Artist spotlight Artist spotlight — — —
16 Jazz — — — — —
17 J-pop — — — — —
18 Easy listening — — — — —
19 Teen pop — — — — —
—

ENTERTAINMENT
Crossword
CHEERS!
BY GREG BRUCE
124 JUNE 2012 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM
ACROSS
1 Globe-trot
5 Stadium souvenirs
9 Casual eatery
15 Subway alternative
18 Panache
19 Brain wave
20 Guru’s retreat
21 Ultimatum ender
22 Bank deposit?
23 Hoot
24 Record wrapper
25 Snoop (around)
26 Perpetually
27 Devour
29 Battle ships
31 Type of shot
33 Abbreviation in a
Springsteen hit
34 Campaign pro
35 Scrawny
36 Bud
37 Suitable trade
39 Salon staple
40 Toward the rear
43 Cantina order
46 Install, as fl oor tiles
50 Bystander
52 Struck down
54 It has a shell
55 _____ Few Dollars More
56 Money spent
60 Go get it
63 Off and on
66 Throw out a line again
69 Came to earth
70 Preserve, in a way
71 Extreme
72 Numero uno
73 Do over, as a joke
76 Adorn
77 Aboveboard
81 It might lead to a
shootout
83 1981 title role for Caan
85 Brat’s refrain
86 Sword conqueror,
proverbially
87 Place to lounge
90 Wheel used in a game
of chance
93 Farthest
96 Winner’s quaff
First Class Convenience for DIA
Located on Tower Road just North
of Peña Boulevard
Your LOCAL Choice Since 1998!
www.USAirportparking.com
100 Comics outcry
101 A Chorus Line number
102 Make someone do
something
103 Mountain ____
105 Waiter’s handout
107 Chess piece
108 Princess tormentor
109 Kind of can
113 Bird spec
115 Southwestern snake
117 Small amount
118 Go _____ detail
119 Popeye’s tattoo
121 Frat party garb
122 Kind of blocker
123 Bûche de _____
(holiday treat)
124 Be a go-between
125 Sweeping story
126 Allege
127 Fumble
128 Trophy site, perhaps
129 Take fi ve
130 Arctic seabird
DOWN
1 Change, as a clock
2 Drink garnish
3 Hotel employee
4 Lure and snare
5 Advertisement
insert, perhaps
6 “Later!”
7 Lowly worker
8 Seedless mandarin
orange
9 Rice variety
10 Avalon, for one
11 Wolf or devil preceder
12 Sign of nervousness
13 Bolero composer
14 Broken mirror,
to some
15 Circus regular
16 Prospector’s test
17 Draft pick
21 Embrace
28 Tech support caller
30 Comply with
32 Appoint
34 Bit of laughter
38 Part of TGIF
39 Run the _____ (var.)
40 _____ Romeo
41 Yard component
42 Legal wrong
44 Fowl place
45 African grazer
46 Fabrication
47 Newspaper piece
48 Marry a woman
49 Call for
51 Type of roll
53 Paintings
57 Bona fi de
58 Neuter
59 Square dance group, e.g.
61 Ill considered
62 By the deadline
64 Fountain order
Increased parking fees at DIA got you down?
WE’VE LOWERED OUR RATES!!
AND WE ACCEPT COMPETITORS COUPONS!
COMPARE and SAVE!
DIA Covered Parking $21.00/day
DIA Outerlying Shuttle Lots $7.00/day
DIA Economy Lots
$11.00/day
Please bring magazine intact.
65 Certain conic section
67 Cagey
68 H.H. Munro’s pen name
72 Confuse
73 Catch, as calves
74 Composed
75 Be inclined
76 Double or nothing, say
78 Commend
79 It’s just for openers
80 Onion relative
82 Yoga class requirement
84 Horse-and-buggy _____
88 Desktop feature
89 Man with a law
91 Perform with subtlety
92 Goatish glance
94 Genghis Khan was one
ALL THEME CLUES ARE IN BOLD
If you fi ll in the crossword, please take
the magazine with you so it’s replaced.
Answers on page 74
95 Blame
97 Dress
98 Face up to
99 Serving tray
102 High-kicking dance
104 Australian burrower
105 Like some keys
106 Hit return, often
107 Rage
109 Auspices
110 It doesn’t hold water
111 Mole and Ratty’s pal
112 Discover
113 Red, white or Blue Nun
114 Place for a lifeline
115 Kennedy matriarch
116 Easy gait
120 Bestseller
United
Expires 10/31/2012
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THE LEADERS IN
TM
CARPAL TUNNEL SYNDROME
U.S. and foreign patients travel to the world renowned Brown Hand Center TM across America,
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OPEN CARPAL TUNNEL VS
First described in 1947
NORMAL tissue layers are sliced through in
order to divide the transverse carpal ligament
Stitches for closure of wound
Often, a painful scar results that can be permanent
Recovery can take 6 weeks to 6 months or NEVER
Considered by many to be antiquated, The Brown Procedure
has been reported to be “treatment of choice”
Since 1988, BROWN HAND CENTER has been the destination of choice for patients from around the world who expect world-class comfort and care.
BROWN HAND CENTER is where The Brown Procedure was developed and where so many published medical journal articles originated, answering
questions others could only ask. BROWN HAND CENTER is the leader in carpal tunnel treatment, as well as all problems affecting the hand and upper
extremity, such as arthritic joint problems, injuries and secondary reconstruction, replantation of amputated parts, and congenital birth deformities. When
possible, the approach is minimally invasive to reduce patient pain, suffering and recovery time. The Brown Endoscopic Trigger Release (BETR) is another of
the many innovations from Brown Hand Center used to treat a common problem, trigger finger. Similar to The Brown Procedure, The BETR utilizes two
tiny skin openings to insert instrumentation (designed by Michael G. Brown, MD) to divide the A1 pulley, rather than cutting through normal tissue
layers. This “minimally invasive” approach at BROWN HAND CENTER has allowed countless thousands of patients to return to normal activity in a
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a complication.
BROWN HAND CENTER physicians, specialists in hand and upper extremity care, are available 24/7.
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diseases of the hand...Brown Hand Center’s Hand and Microvascualr surgeons are LEADERS IN NOT
ONLY HAND, BUT ALSO WRIST, ARM, ELBOW AND SHOULDER PROBLEMS. The emphasis
is always on a minimally invasive approach, when possible, to minimize discomfort and recovery time.
BROWN HAND CENTER’S ideal is to make available to all the specialized care of a highly skilled and
trained hand/microvascular surgeon and to help others understand this specialized field. BROWN
HAND CENTER’S message is seen in television and magazine ads worldwide.
www.brownhandcenter.com
THE
BROWN PROCEDURE
Outpatient, less than 5 minutes
NO STITCHES and Little or NO PAIN
Hand use the following day, unrestricted in 7 days
Minimizes risk of permanent nerve damage
No iatrogenic nerve or artery injuries as reported in
the prestigious Journal of Plastic and Reconstructive Surgery
(beware of imitators of The Brown Procedure that do not have
the same proven track record over nearly 20 years)
World-Class Comfort & Care
Delivering leading edge care with
kindness, courtesy and compassion.
Providing “service as it should be.” TM
Patents Expired

ENTERTAINMENT
Sudoku
THE NUMBERS GAME
BY REIKO MCLAUGHLIN
126 JUNE 2012 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM
1. EASY
3. MEDIUM
2. MEDIUM
4. HARD
ANSWERS
1.
2.
3.
4.
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Beverly Hills | San Fransisco | Las Vegas | La Jolla | Scottsdale | Seattle | New York | Chicago | Dallas
Houston | Boston | Atlanta | Washington DC | Denver | West Palm Beach | Stockholm | London

INFORMATION
Safety &
Travel Assistance
SAFETY INFORMATION
NEED TO KNOW
Customer safety is our primary
concern. Our fl ight attendants
are trained thoroughly in all
safety procedures. But as expert
as they are, in the event of an
emergency they need help from
you, the customer. You should
be aware of the following:
NEVER PERMITTED
The Federal Aviation
Ad min istra tion and
the Transportation Security
Administration prohibit
hazardous materials in either
checked or carry-on baggage.
Sub stantial fi nes can be
imposed for violations.
Travel assistance for delayed or canceled fl ights
At United, our priority is safety and keeping an on-time schedule. On occasion,
canceling or delaying a fl ight is the only option to ensure we maintain
the highest safety standards.
Flight interruption? We will confi rm you on the next United fl ight with
available seats. Kiosks located in the concourse will assist you with
information and a boarding pass, and will also help you stand by for an
earlier United fl ight if one is scheduled. If you want to travel standby and
aren’t boarded, we will transfer your name to the next United fl ight to your
destination until you are onboard.
What about my bag? Baggage is boarded on the next fl ight if space is
available, which means your bags may arrive before you. If so, United will
secure the bag until you claim it. See a baggage claim representative.
What if I have to stay overnight? If a fl ight is canceled to address a
mechanical issue or a similar issue within our control, we will provide
Staying Fit INFLIGHT FLEXIBILITY
Knee Flexion: Lift knee toward
chest, decreasing the amount
of joint space at the back of the
knee. Repeat with other leg.
Knee Extension: Straighten
knee, increasing the amount of
joint space at the back of the
knee to its full range. Repeat
with other leg.
EXIT
Location of the nearest
emergency exit
Where your oxygen mask will
appear, how to start the oxygen
fl ow and how to use the mask
Liquid and solid explosives
Poisons
The correct procedure for exiting
the cabin in an emergency
Please look carefully at the safety
information card located in the
seat pocket in front of you
Flammable gases
and compressed gas
Radioactive and magnetic
materials, corrosive and
oxidizing agents
you with a hotel and meal voucher. For uncontrollable events—such as
weather—we may be able to help you locate a local hotel at a discounted
rate; however, United does not cover hotel or meal expenses in this event.
If we cannot retrieve your checked bag, overnight kits containing toiletries
are available. Please see an agent.
What if the reason for my travel no longer exists? If as a result of the
delay or cancellation you opt not to travel, call United reservations
(1-800-UNITED-1) to learn about your options.
Help us help you stay informed. Sign up for Trip Alert, our messaging
service that informs you if your fl ight is canceled or delayed, at united.com.
At home? Go to united.com for information or to check in and print your
boarding pass.
Your safety and satisfaction are important to us. We appreciate your
business and apologize for any inconvenience you may have experienced.
Dorsifl exion: With heel on fl oor,
point toes upward, decreasing
the angle between the foot and
the front of the leg. Repeat with
other foot.
Plantar Flexion: Lift heel and
keep toes pointed toward the fl oor,
increasing the angle between the
top of the foot and the front of the
leg. Repeat with other foot.
MAKING YOUR CONNECTING FLIGHT Whether
your next fl ight is on United or one of its Star Alliance
partners around the world, you can use the terminal
diagrams on pages 138-140 to plan your connection.
In addition to gate locations, these maps show ticket
counters and interterminal transportation.
Smoking is not permitted. Federal law
imposes fi nes of $1,000 for smoking
and up to $2,200 for any at tempt to
disable an aircraft’s smoke detectors. We
prohibit the use of electronic simulated
smoking devices (cigarettes, pipes,
cigars, etc.) on our fl ights.
It is a violation of federal regulations to
drink alcoholic beverages during a fl ight
unless they are served by our personnel.
Also, airlines are forbidden to serve
alcoholic beverages to anyone who
appears to be intoxicated.
Eversion: With foot on fl oor,
gently roll the sole of the foot
inward. Repeat with other foot.
Inversion: With foot on fl oor,
gently roll the sole of the foot
outward. Repeat with other foot.
128 JUNE 2012 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

ELECTRONIC DEVICES
STAGE OF
FLIGHT
DEPARTURE:
at gate, only when
cabin door is open
ARRIVAL: taxiing
to gate area
IN FLIGHT:
above 10,000 feet
in altitude
ON GROUND:
when main cabin
door is open
NEVER
PERMITTED
Noise-canceling
headphones
Cameras
Shavers
Mobile phones and
two-way pagers
CUSTOMER CARE We are committed to providing
quality service, and we want to hear about your
travel experience with us. In addition, if you think a
certain employee or an action taken on your behalf
deserves special recognition, please let us know.
Please give us your feedback at ualsurvey.com.
DEVICES PERMITTED
PDAs and other
electronic devices
MUST BE TURNED OFF: during taxi, takeoff and landing
GPS devices
Personal computers*
Aircraft power ports
for laptops
Entertainment
players and recorders
(audio and/or video,
such as iPods;
e-readers; tape/
CD/MiniDisc/MP3/
DVD players; and
camcorders)*
MUST BE TURNED OFF: during taxi, takeoff and landing
TVs Radio receivers and/or transmitters (including
AM/FM/SW, CB and scanners)
ONBOARD PHOTO AND VIDEO
The use of still and video cameras, fi lm or digital, including any cellular or other devices that
have this capability, is permitted only for recording of personal events. Photography or audio
or video recording of other customers without their express prior consent is strictly prohibited.
Also, unauthorized photography or audio or video recording of airline personnel, aircraft
equipment or procedures is always prohibited. Any photography (video or still) or voice or
audio recording or transmission while on any United Airlines aircraft is strictly prohibited,
except to the extent specifi cally permitted by United Airlines.
Calculators
Electronic games*
* must be used
with sound off or
with headsets at
all times
Remote-control toys
and personal air
purifi ers
Rechargeable
batteries have a risk
of overload or fi re
when not stored properly.
Rechargeable batteries
should be stored in their
electronic devices or
properly protected to avoid
contact with metal or other
batteries during fl ight.
Advanced mobile phones,
PDAs and other personal
electronic devices with
wireless capabilities may
be used in fl ight when
switched to “airplane”
mode. A visible airplanedisabled
mode should be
identifi able and shown
to a crew member upon
request. Flight attendants
will notify mobile phone
and two-way pager users
when it is safe to begin
placing or receiving phone
calls or pages after landing.
One-way pagers may be
used to receive messages
at any time.
PLEASE NOTE Customers
may always use any
medically prescribed
physiological instrument,
such as a hearing aid or
a pacemaker. On aircraft
equipped with in-ear
headphones, customers
with hearing-assistance
devices may request a
diff erent headset from a
fl ight attendant.
Passengers are allowed to
use non-battery-operated
headphones during taxi,
takeoff and landing.
The in-seat power system
may be used only above
10,000 feet, when other
approved personal
electronic devices are
permitted. Use of the
system is at your own risk.
Do not remove batteries.
We are not respons ible
for loss of data or damage
to computer hardware
or software.
HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • JUNE 2012 129

7:00 pm
8:00 pm
9:00 pm
10:00 pm
11:00 pm
12:00
MON.
International Date Line
12:00
SUN.
1:00 am
2:00 am
ARCTIC OCEAN
3:00 am
4:00 am
5:00 am
6:00 am
7:00 am
8:00 am
9:00 am
10:00 am
11:00 am
12:00 pm
1:00 pm
ARCTIC OCEAN
Alta
MIDNIGHT
United Seasonal Service
Tromso
Route Maps
United Future Service
GREENLAND
INTERNATIONAL CITIES
CITY United Hub (Red All Caps)
ALASKA
(U.S.)
Lulea
Route lines do not refl ect actual fl ight path
Cities served
Oulu
Fairbanks
ICELAND
Cities served by select airline partners
Umea
Reykjavik
Trondheim
2:00 pm
Ostersund
United/United Express
Time zone boundary
Kristiansund
Molde
Vaasa FINLAND
SWEDEN
Anchorage
NORWAY
RUSSIA
Turku Helsinki
Oslo
Hudson
RUSSIA
St. Petersburg
Bay
UNITED
Tallinn
Stockholm
KINGDOM
Edinburgh
5:00 pm
4:00
Glasgow
LAT. Riga
Manchester Copenhagen
Malmo
LITH.
Moscow
Belfast
Vilnius
Ekaterinburg
9:30
Dublin
Hamburg Gdansk Minsk
Amsterdam
BELARUS
Shannon
GERMANY Berlin
2:00
CANADA
Warsaw
4:00
Birmingham
Brussels
POLAND
6:00 pm
London
Kiev
Krakow
Frankfurt Stuttgart
Kosice UKRAINE
Astana
Paris
Munich
Khabarovsk
MOLDOVA
Donetzk
Ulaanbataar
AUSTRIA
Chisinau
Seattle
KAZAKHSTAN
FRANCE SWITZ.
ROMANIA
MONGOLIA
Harbin
Odessa
Geneva Milan Belgrade
BOS.-
Bucharest
Krasnodar
8:00 pm
Changchun
U.S.A.
Sapporo
HER. SERB.
Alma-Ata
Rome
Black Sea
SPAIN
KOS.
Sofia
Shenyang
GEORGIA
UZBEKISTAN
Bishkek
CHICAGO
MONT.
Tbilisi
CHINA
New York (La Guardia)
Skopje
Istanbul
Baku
5:00 Tashkent KYRGYZSTAN
Baotou
JAPAN
(O’HARE)
Barcelona
Batumi
N. KOREA
CLEVELAND
PORTUGAL
Tirana
ARMENIA
Beijing
Madrid
Ankara
AZER. TURKMENISTAN
Pyongyang
ALB. GREECE
TURKEY Yerevan
Tianjin Dalian
Sendai
NEW YORK (NEWARK)
Lisbon
Niigata
Horta
Izmir
SAN FRANCISCO
Dushanbe TAJIKISTAN
S. KOREA Komatsu
DENVER
WASHINGTON, DC
Athens
Antalya
Seoul
(DULLES)
Ashgabat
Zhengzhou
Algiers
Larnaca
Erbil
Qingdao
TOKYO
12:00
Tunis Malta
Pusan
Rhodes Ercan
LOS ANGELES
SYRIA
Oran
CYPRUS
AFGHAN. Islamabad
TUNISIA Mediterranean Sea
Beirut
LEBANON
IRAQ Tehran Mashad
Fukuoka Osaka Nagoya
Nador
Casablanca
Peshawar Jammu
Nanjing
Hefei
Cheju
Okayama
Orange County
MOROCCO
Tripoli
Tel Aviv Damascus Baghdad
Nagasaki
IRAN
ISRAEL
4:30
Amritsar
Chengdu Shanghai
Hiroshima
HOUSTON
Lahore
Wuhan
Amman
Kumamoto
Funchal
Benghazi
Chandigarh
3:30
6:00
Chongqing
Hangzhou
Kagoshima Oita Kochi
Austin (INTERCONTINENTAL)
Bermuda
Alexandria
Ningbo
Matsuyama
San Antonio
CANARY ISLANDS
JORDAN
Kathmandu
5:00
Changsha
Chihuahua
Cairo
Kuwait
Wenzhou
Delhi
Miyazaki
ALGERIA
PAKISTAN
NEPAL
BHUTAN
Guiyang
Saltillo Tenerife
Fuzhou
Monterrey
Las Palmas
Dammam
Guwahati
Guangzhou
LIBYA
2:00 pm
Okinawa
Torreon
QATAR
Kunming
Jaipur
BANGLADESH
Xiamen Taipei
Luxor
Lucknow
Guilin
Nassau
Bahrain
MEXICO
Santo Domingo
Dubai
Karachi
Agartala
Durango
Tampico
Riyadh 5:30
WESTERN SAHARA
Doha Abu Dhabi
Indore Patna
Nanning
Macau Shenzhen Ishigaki
Los Cabos
Aguascalientes
Aguadilla
EGYPT
U. A. E.
INDIA
Dhaka
Providenciales
Muscat
BURMA Hanoi
Ahmedabad
Kolkata
TAIWAN
Queretaro
San Juan
Jeddah
Hong Kong
Honolulu
Cozumel
Nagpur
Chiang Rai LAOS
Mexico City
Puerto
Raipur
Chiang Mai
Haikou
Veracruz
Grand Cayman
St. Thomas
Puerto Vallarta
Plata
MAURITANIA
SAUDI ARABIA
OMAN
Pune
Vientiane
Ciudad del
9:00 pm
COMMONWEALTH OF
Manzanillo
Puebla Carmen
St. Maarten
Mumbai
Yangon THAILAND
MALI
South China
NORTHERN MARIANA ISLANDS
Belize Montego
Sal
NIGER
4:00 pm
Khon Kaen
Guadalajara
Bay
Port-au-
Punta Ponce Antigua
CAPE VERDE
Sea
CHAD
ERITREA
Morelia
Oaxaca Tuxtla Roatan
Prince
ISLANDS
YEMEN
Luzon Island
Saipan
Cana
Toluca HuatulcoGutiérrez
Dakar
1:00 pm
Goa
Bangkok
Manila
San Pedro Sula
SENEGAL
Khartoum
Sanaa
Arabian Sea
Bangalore
5:30
CAMBODIA
Rota
Ixtapa/Zihuatanejo Villahermosa Tegucigalpa
Asmara
Aruba
Banjul GAMBIA
BURKINA
SUDAN
Chennai
VIETNAM
PHILIPPINES
Bamako
Mangalore
Phnom Penh
GUAM
Acapulco Guatemala City
Bonaire
NIC.
FASO Ouagadougou
DJIBOUTI
(Madras)
MARSHALL ISLANDS
Bissau
Kano
GUINEA BISSAU
Kozhikode
Cebu
San Salvador Panama
Port-of-Spain
GUINEA
COSTA
BENIN
Coimbatore
Krabi
Ho Chi Minh City
City
Conakry
NIGERIA
Managua
Caracas
(Saigon)
RICA
Maracaibo TOGO
Cochin
Yap
Kwajalein
Phuket
Valencia
PANAMA
Freetown
Cotonou
Abuja
Hat Yai
Liberia
Cartagena
SOUTH
Addis Ababa
VENEZUELA
Trivandrum
Pohnpei
SURINAME
SIERRA LEONE
GHANA
SUDAN
Kota Kinabalu
CENTRAL AFRICAN
ETHIOPIA
Medellin
Bucaramanga
Lagos Port Harcourt
Penang
Chuuk (Truk)
GUYANA
MALAYSIA
Palau
Majuro
CAMEROON
FEDERATED STATES OF MICRONESIA
Monrovia LIBERIA
Lome
Douala REPUBLIC
Juba
Bandar Seri Begawan
Accra
Colombo
Kosrae
Cali
FRENCH GUIANA
Abidjan Malabo Yaounde
DEM. REP.
SOMALIA
Kuala Lumpur
BRUNEI
CONGO UGANDA
COLOMBIA
EQUATORIAL GUINEA
SRI LANKA
Singapore
Quito
ATLANTIC OCEAN
Libreville
Entebbe
Sao Tome
KENYA
PACIFIC OCEAN
ECUADOR
GABON
SAO TOME
CONGO
Kigali
Nairobi
MALDIVES
I N D O N E S I A
Guayaquil
Manaus
Fortaleza
& PRINCIPE
RWANDA
Mahé
BURUNDI
Pointe Noire
Bujumbura
PAPUA
INDIAN OCEAN
Kinshasa
SEYCHELLES
NEW GUINEA
TANZANIA Dar Es Salaam
Jakarta
PERU
BRAZIL
Recife
2:00 pm 3:00 pm 4:00 pm 5:00 pm 6:00 pm
Luanda
Denpasar Bali
Lubumbashi
COMOROS
Salvador
ANGOLA
MALAWI
INDIAN OCEAN
Darwin
Coral
Apia
Lima
Bergen
Pago Pago
Cuzco
ZAMBIA
Oslo
Sea
BOLIVIA
WESTERN SAMOA
10:00 am
Lusaka Lilongwe
Helsinki
Brasilia
Port Vila
FRENCH POLYNESIA
Stockholm
Harare
Cairns
FIJI
Santa Cruz
Goiania
Nadi
Papeete
Niue
ZIMBABWE
MOZAMBIQUE
CHILE
Campo Belo Horizonte
Stavanger
Rarotonga
Grande
NAMIBIA
Nuku’ Alofa
MADAGASCAR
AUSTRALIA
Noumea
PARAGUAY
Rio de Janeiro
Windhoek
Manzini
NEW CALEDONIA
BOTSWANA
Aberdeen Aalborg
to
to
to to
to to
Riga
San Francisco Denver
Cleveland New York New York New York
Iguassu Falls
Gaborone
Maputo
Aarhus
1:00
to
(Newark) (La Guardia) (Newark)
Glasgow Edinburgh
Billund Copenhagen Palanga
Brisbane
Los Angeles
Curitiba
Johannesburg SWAZILAND
Malmo
Norfolk Island
Gold Coast
ARGENTINA
Florianopolis
Newcastle Esbjerg
HOUSTON
to
Bloemfontein
9:30 pm
(INTERCONTINENTAL)
Washington
Porto Alegre
Maseru
Belfast Durban
Groningen
Gdansk
Vilnius
Hermosillo
Kaliningrad
San
Austin
(Dulles)
Bermuda
Cordoba
SOUTH AFRICA
Leeds
Bremen Hamburg
Chihuahua
Perth
Antonio
LESOTHO
URUGUAY
East London Dublin Manchester
Berlin
Guaymas
Saltillo
Sydney
Santiago
Cape Town
Hannover
Tasman
Montevideo
Shannon
Adelaide
Port
Amsterdam
Monterrey
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Muenster
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Elizabeth
Sea
Auckland
Torreon
Santiago
Buenos Aires
Cork
Leipzig
Nassau
Bristol
London
Dresden
London
Melbourne
Hamilton Rotorua
MEXICO
Samana
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Durango
Tampico
Napier-Hastings
(Gatwick)
Prague
Havana
Santo Domingo
Cologne Frankfurt
Katowice
Los Cabos
Aguascalientes
Cities served by select airline
Luxembourg
Palmerston North
Providenciales
Aguadilla
Nuremberg
Nelson
partners that are not visible
Wellington
Queretaro
San Juan
Paris Stuttgart Munich
Cozumel
on the map:
NEW Blenheim
Basel Salzburg Linz Vienna
Mexico City
Puerto
St. Thomas
ZEALAND
Manzini, Swaziland
Budapest
Christchurch
Grand Cayman Plata
Puerto Vallarta
Veracruz Ciudad del
Friedrichshafen
Klagenfurt Cluj-Napoca
Durban, South Africa
Queenstown Dunedin
Manzanillo
Puebla Carmen Montego
St. Maarten
Ljubljana
Port-au-
Lyon
Verona
Maputo, Mozambique
Venice Zagreb
Guadalajara
Belize Bay
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Kingston Kingston Prince
Punta Cana Antigua
Harare, Zimbabwe
Turin
Milan Trieste
Oaxaca
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Pointe a Pitre
Bologna
Morelia
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Genoa
Belgrade
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San Pedro Sula
Martinique
Lilongwe, Malawi
Florence
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Nice
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Marseille Pisa
Ixtapa/Zihuatanejo
Villahermosa Tegucigalpa
Bilbao
Ancona
San Andres
Aruba
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Sofia
Acapulco
Island
Guatemala City
Bonaire
Rome
Skopje
NIC.
Grenada
Porto
Istanbul
Tobago
Madrid
Naples
San Salvador
Thessaloniki
COSTA
Route lines reflect flights operated by United Airlines
Caracas
Valencia
Alexandroupolis
Managua
Port-of-Spain
RICA
Palma
PACIFIC OCEAN
Panama City
and/or its regional partners. For accurate flight
La Romana Ibiza
PANAMA
Palermo
schedules, please see www.united.com.
World time zones shown in
Liberia
Lisbon
Alicante
Sevilla
COLOMBIA
VENEZUELA
Izmir
© 2012 United Air Lines, Inc. All Rights Reserved.
Mikonos
Standard Time.
Faro Granada
Rhodes
6:00 pm
7:00 pm
8:00 pm
9:00 pm
10:00 pm
11:00 pm
12:00
MIDNIGHT 1:00 am
2:00 am
3:00 am
4:00 am
5:00 am
6:00 am
7:00 am
8:00 am
9:00 am
10:00 am
11:00 am
12:00
NOON
1:00 pm
Luga Heraklion
0612
2:00 pm
Caspian Sea
3:00 pm

to Anchorage
PACIFIC
OCEAN
Sand Spit
to Fairbanks
Prince Rupert Terrace Smithers
Prince George
Pacific
Time Zone
4:00
Fort St. John
Grande Prairie
Mountain
Time Zone
5:00
Fort McMurray
CANADA
Cullaton Lake
Ennadai Lake
Route Maps
NORTH AMERICAN CITIES
Route lines do not refl ect actual fl ight path
United/United Express Route
BRITISH
COLUMBIA
ALBERTA
Central
Time Zone
6:00
MANITOBA
SASKATCHEWAN
Gulf Of
St. Lawrence
WASHINGTON
NEW
Eastern
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Time Zone
7:00
MONTANA
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Of Mexico
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Time Zone 8:30 Gander
Deer Lake
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NEWFOUNDLAND
& LABRADOR
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Midland/
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Hartford/
Reno/Tahoe
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White New Haven
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Bradford
Plains Long Island/Islip
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Omaha
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Fresno
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Mishawaka
Franklin Williamsport
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Clearfield
N.J. (J.F. Kennedy)
Monterey
Springs COLORADO
Des Iowa City
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Moines
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NEW YORK (NEWARK)
Junction Vail/Eagle
Peoria
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Ft.
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MARYLAND DEL.
Bakersfield
Gunnison/
WASHINGTON, DC (DULLES)
Las Vegas
Crested
Springfield Indianapolis
Clarksburg
Telluride
Hays
Butte
Parkersburg
Santa Maria
Shenandoah
Salisbury Salisbury
Page/
Cortez
Kansas City
Cincinnati
(Reagan National)
Santa Barbara Burbank
Lake Powell
Durango Pueblo
St. Louis
Valley
Huntington Charleston Charlottesville
Louisville
LOS ANGELES
Farmington Alamosa
Garden City Great Bend
Lewisburg Richmond
Long Beach Ontario
Lexington Beckley
Norfolk/Virginia Beach
Orange County
Flagstaff
Dodge City
Lynchburg
Wichita
Liberal
Roanoke
Newport News/Williamsburg
Carlsbad
Springfield
Tri-Cities Regional
Palm Springs
Prescott
Greensboro/High Point/Winston-Salem
Paducah
Raleigh/Durham
San Diego
Show Low
Amarillo
Albuquerque
Tulsa
Imperial
Nashville Knoxville
New Bern
Phoenix/Scottsdale
Northwest
Oklahoma City
Charlotte Greenville
Arkansas
Yuma
Asheville
Fayetteville/Ft. Bragg
Greenville/
Jacksonville
BERMUDA
Lubbock
Memphis
Spartanburg
Tucson
Little
Chattanooga
Wilmington
Rock
Huntsville/
Columbia Florence
Decatur
Myrtle Beach
Atlanta
Hobbs
El Paso
Dallas/
Birmingham Augusta
Charleston
Fort Worth
Dallas (Love)
Hilton Head Island
Midland/
Monroe
Odessa
Jackson
Montgomery
Shreveport Jackson
Waco Tyler
Savannah
Train Routes
Killeen
College Station Alexandria
Codeshare/MileagePlus Partner Service
Mobile
Baton
Pensacola Tallahassee
Austin
Jacksonville
MileagePlus Eligible Service
Honolulu
Lake
Rouge
Kapalua Kahului
Del Rio
Charles
Ft. Walton
Gainesville
Maui
HOUSTON
Lafayette Gulfport/ Beach
Boston
San Antonio (INTERCONTINENTAL)
New Biloxi
Daytona
Beaumont/ Orleans
Pt. Arthur
Orlando
Victoria
Laredo
Tampa/St. Petersburg
Melbourne
Laredo
New Haven
Hilo
Newark Stamford
Kona
Pacific Ocean
West Palm Beach
Route lines reflect flights operated by United Airlines
Corpus Christi
Sarasota/Bradenton
Treasure Cay
(Liberty) New York (Penn Station)
Freeport
Marsh Harbour
and/or its regional partners. For accurate flight
McAllen
Ft. Myers
schedules, please see www.united.com.
Harlingen
Ft. Lauderdale/Hollywood
Philadelphia
© 2012 United Air Lines, Inc. All Rights Reserved.
Brownsville
North Eleuthera
Wilmington
Miami Bimini
Governors Harbour
0 50 100 150 Miles
Nassau
ATLANTIC
0 50 100 150 200 Kilometers
0 100 200 300 400 Miles
Andros Town Cat Island
Washington, DC
OCEAN
Key West
0 100 200 300 400 500 600 Kilometers
George Town
0612
CUBA
CITY
United Seasonal Service
United Future Service
United Hub (Red All Caps)
Cities served
Cities served by select airline partners
Time zone boundary
Goose Bay
Atlantic
Time Zone
8:00
INFORMATION
Customs
& Immigration
U.S. I-94 Arrival/Departure Record
All travelers who hold a U.S. visa are required to complete an I-94
Arrival/Departure Record (one per person, including infants).
Write in English, in capital letters. Be sure to include the street
name and number, city and state of your address in the U.S. If you
are transiting through the U.S., you may write TRANSIT and your
fi nal destination country. The Customs and Border Protection
offi cer will place the I-94 Departure Record in your passport after
inspection. Make sure you return the Departure Record to the
airline representative before boarding your return fl ight.
U.S. Customs Declaration
All passengers (or one passenger per family) are required to
complete a Customs Declaration before arrival in the U.S. Write
in English, in capital letters. Be sure to include the street name
and number, city and state of your address in the U.S. If you are
transiting through the U.S., you may write TRANSIT and your
fi nal destination country. Please read both sides of the declaration
and place your signature at the bottom of the form.
Expedited Passport
Control and Customs
Clearance in the U.S.—
Global Entry
U.S. Customs and Border Protection (CBP) off ers the Global
Entry program in order to expedite the processing of preapproved,
low-risk international travelers entering the U.S. Upon
returning from international travel, Global Entry–enrolled travelers
may bypass the regular passport control line and proceed
to the Global Entry kiosk. Global Entry program participants
scan their machine-readable passport, U.S. permanent resident
card or U.S. visa on the kiosk, place their fi ngertips on the scanner
for fi ngerprint verifi cation and make a customs declaration.
The kiosk will issue the traveler a transaction receipt and direct
the traveler to baggage claim and exit.
The following travelers are eligible for enrollment in Global Entry:
• Citizens and residents of the U.S.
• Citizens of Mexico who hold a U.S. visa
• Citizens of the Netherlands who are enrolled in Privium
• NEXUS members
• SENTRI members
Application for enrollment in the Global Entry program is
available at the Global On-Line Enrollment System (GOES):
goes-app.cbp.dhs.gov. It costs only US$100, which covers
enrollment in the program for a fi ve-year period. The government
will review the applicant’s information while a background
investigation is conducted. Applicants undergo an interview
with CBP offi cers at an Enrollment Center in the U.S. before fi nal
approval is granted.
Global Entry is available in the following cities: Atlanta
(ATL), Boston (BOS), Calgary (YYC), Charlotte (CLT), Chicago
(ORD-O’Hare), Dallas (DFW), Denver (DEN), Detroit (DTW),
Edmonton (YEG), Fort Lauderdale (FLL), Halifax (YHZ), Honolulu
(HNL), Houston (IAH-Intercontinental), Las Vegas (LAS), Los
Angeles (LAX), Miami (MIA), Minneapolis (MSP), Montreal
(YUL), New York (JFK), Newark (EWR-Liberty), Orlando (MCO-
International and SFB-Sanford), Ottawa (YOW), Philadelphia
(PHL), Phoenix (PHX), Seattle (SEA), San Francisco (SFO), San
Juan (SJU), Toronto (YYZ), Washington, D.C. (IAD-Dulles),
Winnipeg (YWG) and Vancouver (YVR).
For detailed information, go to the U.S. Customs and Border
Protection site, globalentry.gov.
DEPARTMENT OF HOMELAND SECURITY OMB No. 1651-0111
U.S. Customs and Border Protection
Welcome to the United States
I-94 Arrival/Departure Record
Instructions
This form must be completed by all persons except U.S. Citizens, returning resident aliens,
aliens with immigrant visas, and Canadian Citizens visiting or in transit.
Type or print legibly with pen in ALL CAPITAL LETTERS. Use English. Do not write on the
back of this form.
This form is in two parts. Please complete both the Arrival Record (Items 1 through 17) and
the Departure Record (Items 18 through 21).
When all items are completed, present this form to the CBP Officer.
Item 9 - If you are entering the United States by land, enter LAND in this space. If you are
entering the United States by ship, enter SEA in this space.
5 U.S.C. § 552a(e)(3) Privacy Act Notice: Information collected on this form is required by Title 8 of the U.S. Code,
including the INA (8 U.S.C. 1103, 1187), and 8 CFR 235.1, 264, and 1235.1. The purposes for this collection are to
give the terms of admission and document the arrival and departure of nonimmigrant aliens to the U.S. The
information solicited on this form may be made available to other government agencies for law enforcement purposes
or to assist DHS in determining your admissibility. All nonimmigrant aliens seeking admission to the U.S., unless
otherwise exempted, must provide this information. Failure to provide this information may deny you entry to the
United States and result in your removal.
CBP Form I-94 (05/08)
OMB No. 1651-0111
Arrival Record
Admission Number
000000000 00
1. Family Name
2. First (Given) Name 3. Birth Date (DD/MM/YY)
4. Country of Citizenship 5. Sex (Male or Female)
6. Passport Issue Date (DD/MM/YY) 7. Passport Expiration Date (DD/MM/YY)
8. Passport Number 9. Airline and Flight Number
10. Country Where You Live 11. Country Where You Boarded
12. City Where Visa Was Issued 13. Date Issued (DD/MM/YY)
14. Address While in the United States (Number and Street)
15. City and State
16. Telephone Number in the U.S. Where You Can be Reached
17. Email Address
DEPARTMENT OF HOMELAND SECURITY
U.S. Customs and Border Protection
Departure Record
Admission Number
000000000 00
18. Family Name
See Other Side
CBP Form I-94 (05/08)
OMB No. 1651-0111
19. First (Given) Name 20. Birth Date (DD/MM/YY)
21. Country of Citizenship
Left, U.S. Customs Declaration; right, U.S. I-94 Arrival/
Departure Record, which all U.S. visa holders must complete.
Andorra
Australia
Austria
Belgium
Brunei
Czech Republic
Denmark
Estonia
Finland
France
Germany
Greece
Hungary
Australia
Brunei
Hong Kong
(SAR; with HKG
identity card)
Japan
Countries participating in the U.S.
Visa Waiver Program (VWP):
Iceland
Ireland
Italy
Japan
Latvia
Liechtenstein
Lithuania
Luxembourg
Malta
Monaco
Netherlands
New Zealand
Norway
Malaysia
Nauru
New Zealand
Papua New Guinea
Russian Federation
Singapore
Portugal
San Marino
Singapore
Slovakia
Slovenia
South Korea
Spain
Sweden
Switzerland
United Kingdom
(British citizen
or with unrestricted
right of abode)
Countries participating in the Guam-CNMI
Visa Waiver Program (VWP):
CBP Form I-94 (05/08)
South Korea
Taiwan
(direct fl ight to
Guam with passport
and national ID card)
United Kingdom
(including BNO)
136 JUNE 2012 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM
STAPLE HERE

Our Fleet
787 UPDATE
United has always been at the forefront of aviation developments; the fi rst airline to operate both the 767 and 777,
United will also be the fi rst North American airline to put into service the revolutionary Boeing 787 Dreamliner.
The details are in the cabin: Lower cabin altitude and higher humidity levels will signifi cantly reduce the eff ects of jet
lag. Larger windows with electrochromic shades will enable you to dim your window and still enjoy the passing terrain.
Ambient LED lighting, reduced cabin noise and a more spacious cabin design will provide an unrivaled level of comfort.
Fleet Facts
AIRCRAFT 747-400 777-200/
-200ER
767-200ER/
-300ER/
-400ER
757-200/
-300
737-500/
-700/-800/
-900/-900ER
A319/A320
CRUISE SPEED 567 mph 550 mph 540 mph 540 mph 530 mph 530 mph
CAPACITY 374 passengers Between 253 and
348 passengers
PROPULSION Four Pratt &
Whitney PW4062
turbofan engines,
rated up to
63,300 pounds
thrust each
Two General
Electric GE90
or two Pratt
& Whitney
PW4077/4090
turbofan engines,
rated up to 94,000
pounds thrust each
Between 174 and
244 passengers
Two General
Electric CF6-
80C2B or Pratt &
Whitney PW4060
turbofan engines,
rated up to
63,300 pounds
thrust each
Between 110 and
216 passengers
Two Rolls-Royce
RB211-535 or two
Pratt & Whitney
PW2040 turbofan
engines, rated up
to 43,700 pounds
thrust each
Between 114 and
173 passengers
Two General
Electric CFM56
turbofan engines,
rated up to
26,400 pounds
thrust each
Between 120 and
144 passengers
Two IAE
V2500-A5
turbofan engines,
rated up to
27,000 pounds
thrust each
WINGSPAN 211 ft., 5 in. 199 ft., 11 in. Up to 170 ft., 4 in. 134 ft., 9 in. Up to 117 ft., 5 in. 111 ft., 11 in.
PRODUCT INVESTMENT We are excited to introduce passengers to our newly rebranded cabin classes: United Global First℠,
our international long-haul fi rst-class cabin on three-cabin aircraft, and United BusinessFirst®, our international long-haul
business-class cabin on two- and three-cabin aircraft. Our enhanced Global First and BusinessFirst cabin services will be rolled
out over the next few months and off er customers a host of new food and beverage options, including expanded wine selections
chosen by Doug Frost, sommelier and master of wine, and additional new entrée choices. International long-haul fl ights will
include new amenity kits featuring Philosophy skincare products; higher-quality pillows and blankets; improved in-fl ight
entertainment; and noise-reduction headsets.
HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • JUNE 2012 137

INFORMATION
Terminal Diagrams
IAH | HOUSTON GEORGE BUSH INTERCONTINENTAL AIRPORT
TERMINAL A
(North Concourse)
United Express
Air Canada
A14
A12
A10
Bus Station (A2)
A3A-G A2 A1
A15
A11
A9
A8
A7
A26 A25
A17
A18
A24
A19
A20
TERMINAL A
(South Concourse)
US Airways
P4
B80
B81A
B81
B83A
B83
B79A B79
B77A
B77
B76A
B76
(Lower Level)
TERMINAL B
United Express
Station
Under Construction
B86A
B87
B88
B86
B85A
B85 B84A-S
C27
TerminaLink
Connects Terminals
A, B, C, D, & E via train
B67
B66
B65
B64
B62A B63A
B63
AirTrain
A3
C29
A2
A1
P1, P2, P3
North
Concourse
C26
C25
Station
C18
C19 C17
C20 C16
C21 C15
C22
C23
C14
138 JUNE 2012 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM
C24
C30
C31
C32
C33
South
Concourse
EWR | NEW YORK/NEWARK LIBERTY INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT
TERMINAL C
B3
B2
B1
TERMINAL B
United International Arrivals
LOT Polish Airlines
Lufthansa
Scandinavian Airlines
Singapore Airlines
SWISS
TAP Portugal
Newark Liberty International Airport
Station — Connection with Amtrak
and New Jersey Transit
TERMINAL A
United
United Express
Air Canada
US Airways
28/28A
20/20A
27/27A
23/23A
26/26A/26X
25/25A
24/24A
TERMINAL C
United
United Express
C43
C34 C42
C35 C41
C36 C40
C37
C39
USO
D1
D2
D3
(Lower Level)
C44
C45
TERMINAL C
United
United International Arrivals
United Express
128
139
138
137
136
135
134
133
127
126
125
124
123
122
121120
132
131
130
TERMINAL D
United
Lufthansa
Singapore Airlines
D4A
D4
D5
D6
E1
E2
E3
E4
E5
115
114
112
110
108
104
102
E6
E9
E8
E7
E10
E11
D6A
D7
D8
D9
D10
D11
D12
International
Arrivals
E12
TERMINAL E
United
United Express
Station
E14
E15
E16
E17
E18
E19
111
109
105
101
70
88
(Upper Level)
72
98
96 97
94
92
91
95
80
81 83 85
90
82 84 86
87
71
73 74
113
99
107
103
75
(Lower Level)
E24
E23
E22
E21
E20

ORD | CHICAGO O’HARE INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT DEN | DENVER INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT
TERMINAL 3
United
United Express
Concourse K
Concourse L
Concourse G
Concourse H
Concourse M
78
79 77
76
Concourse F
TERMINAL 3
TERMINAL 5
International
United (international arrivals, except Canadian arrivals),
Aer Lingus, ANA, Asiana Airlines, LOT Polish Airlines,
Lufthansa, Scandinavian Airlines, SWISS, Turkish Airlines
Gates 60-67
68
71
80
82
72
84
86
81
83
73
73A
88
85
90 87
89
Secure 75
Walkway
G92
G94
G96
G98
G100
G91
G102
G93
G101
G95
G99
G97
74
Concourse E
Concourse C
C2
C1 C4C6C8C10
C3
C5
C7
C9 C12C16
C11
B2 C15
C18
C18A
B1
C17
C20
C19 C22
C21 C24
C23
C26
C25
C28
C30
C27
C32
C29
C31
Elevated Airport
Transport System
Concourse B
TERMINAL 1
United
United Express
ANA
Lufthansa
B3 F14
F12
F11 F10
F9 F8F6
E10
F7
F5
F4
E3
F3 E2A
E2
F2
E1A
F1 E1
B4
B5B6B7B8
(Lower Level)
B9
B10B11
TERMINAL 2
United Express
B12
Air Canada
US Airways
B13
B14
B15
B16
B17
B18
B19
B20
B22 B21
TERMINAL 2
Shuttle
(Lower Level)
INTERNATIONAL
TERMINAL
United, Air Canada, Air China,
Air New Zealand, ANA,
Asiana Airlines, Lufthansa,
Singapore Airlines, SWISS
Gates 40-48
36
35
TE R M I N A L 1
United*
United Express
US Airways
32
32A
33
34
Gates A1-A12
*Effective June 7, 2012, departures to LAS, SAN and SNA will depart from Terminal 1
24
Concourse B
United
United Express
US Airways
B15 B17B19B21B23B25B27B29
Concourse A
Air Canada
Lufthansa
C28-C39 C40-C50
A24-A39 A40-A53
TERMINAL
WEST
TERMINAL
EAST
Concourse C
HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • JUNE 2012 139
B16 B18B20B22
Concourse C
United
United Express
Aer Lingus
B24 B31
B26
B33
B28 B35
B30
B37
B32
B34
B36
Train
B39 B41B43B45B47B49B51B53
B38
B42 B44
B46 B48B50B52
Pedestrian
Bridge
C1-3 C5-7 C9-11 C17-27
D1-7 D9-11
A2 A4 A6
A14 A22 A25 A32
A1 A3 A5
Concourse A
United Express
Copa Airlines
B55
B57 B59
A58-A68
B54
B56
B58
B60
B61 B63
B65
B67
B69
B71
SFO | SAN FRANCISCO INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT IAD | WASHINGTON DULLES INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT
Train
C2-4 C6-8 C10-14 C18-26 C28-30
A15 A21
Z Gates
US Airways
1-4
D2-8
MAIN TERMINAL
D10-16
B35-B51
Shuttle Bus
B80
B82
B84
B86
B81
B83
B85
B87
Concourse D
United
United Express
Aer Lingus
D18-26 D28-32
D15-21 D23-29
B38-B48
B63-B79
B77
B73
B75
B79
B88
B90
B92
B94
B89
B91
B93
B95
Concourse B
ANA
Austrian
Lufthansa
Scandinavian Airlines
South African Airways
Turkish Airlines

Terminal Diagrams CONT’D
LAX | LOS ANGELES INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT
TERMINAL 3
TO M B RA D L EY
INTERNATIONAL TERMINAL
ANA, Asiana Airlines,
Lufthansa, Singapore Airlines, SWISS,
THAI, Turkish Airlines
TERMINAL 2 TERMINAL 1
Air Canada
US Airways
Air China
Air New Zealand
12
8
4B
61
71A
60
70A
63
62
71B
70B
65
64 73
67A 66
72
75A
67B 68A
75B 74
69A 68B
69B 77 76
TERMINAL 4 TERMINAL 5 TERMINAL 6 TERMINAL 7 TERMINAL 8
United
Copa Airlines
United
United Express
80
81
82
83
84
85
86
87
88
United
United Express
CLE | CLEVELAND HOPKINS INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT
C18 C17
C16
C19
C20
C21
C22
C23
C24
D10
D12
D11
D14
C10 C8 C6 C4
140 JUNE 2012 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM
D17
C14
C29
C25 C27
C26
D9
D8 D7
D21
C11
Concourse C
United
United Express
Air Canada
C9
C7
Underground Tunnel
C5
D3 D2
D6
D5 D4
D25
D28
C3
C2
(Lower Level)
Concourse D
United Express
(Lower Level)
US Airways and some United international flights
arrive at Concourse A.
NRT | TOKYO NARITA INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT GUM | GUAM INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT
43 42
44
41
37 35 33 31
45
38 36 34
32
46 47
TERMINAL 1
United
Air Canada
Air China
South Wing
ANA
Asiana Airlines 53 52
51
Austrian
EGYPTAIR
54
Lufthansa
55
Scandinavian Airlines
Singapore Airlines
56
SWISS
THAI
57
Turkish Airlines
58
FRA | FRANKFURT INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT LHR | LONDON HEATHROW INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT
Gates
E1-E26
Pier E
TERMINAL 2
Sky Line Train
Gates
D1-D54
Pier D
Gates
C1-C9
Fourth Floor
Pier C
United
Aegean Airlines
Adria Airways
Air Canada
Air China
ANA
Asiana Airlines
Third Floor
27 26
B47
B46
B48
B45 B42
B44
B43
B1-B41
B27
B26
B28
B23 B25
B24
B22
B10-B20
Pier B
25
TERMINAL 1
Austrian
Croatia Airlines
EGYPTAIR
LOT Polish Airlines
Lufthansa
Scandinavian Airlines
Singapore Airlines
Satellite 2
24
23
21
Air New Zealand flights
arrive/depart at Terminal 2.
22
North Wing
Pier Z
Gates
Z1-Z65
Pedestrian
Tunnel
18
17
16
15
11
12 14
Satellite 1
Lufthansa Tower Lounge
(Level 5)
South African Airways
SWISS
TAM
TAP Portugal
THAI
Turkish Airlines
US Airways
4
Café
Food
Court
11
13 15 17 19
21
20
5 6 7 8 9 10 12 14 16 18
TERMINAL 5
Heathrow Express
TERMINAL 3
Air Canada
Air China
ANA
Blue1
EGYPTAIR
Scandinavian Airlines
Singapore Airlines
THAI
Turkish Airlines
Security
Checkpoint
(Lower Level)
Transfer
Shuttle
Secureside and non-secureside
buses serve all terminals
MAIN TERMINAL
United
TERMINAL 1
United
(Chicago, Washington, D.C.,
San Francisco, Los Angeles)
Aegean Airlines
Air New Zealand
Asiana Airlines
Austrian
Brussels Airlines
Croatia Airlines
LOT Polish Airlines
Lufthansa
South African Airways
SWISS
TAM
TAP Portugal
US Airways
TERMINAL 4
United
(Newark, Houston)
Gates 1-25

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THE HEMI Q&A: MICHELLE OBAMA
» CONTINUED FROM PAGE 81
Miriam’s Kitchen, which is a soup kitchen
right in our neighborhood. None of the
food goes to waste. And there is a lot of it.
HEMISPHERES: After kids from a local
elementary school helped you with that
fi rst harvest, one student wrote an essay
about it that kept returning to the
concept of gentleness. It seemed like a
revelation to him, and you wrote that
it moved you to tears.
OBAMA: We’d had the kids with us for
most of the year, and they invited me to
their school one day to see their garden.
The students had wri en essays, and
a few of them got up and read them
to me. There was this kid, he’s this
Hispanic young man, a jock fi h-grader
dude, and here he is talking about how
kind the people were to him and how
they taught him to be gentle, even
with the earthworms and pulling the
tomatoes off the vine. And seeing this
kid talking about tomatoes in such
poetic terms exemplifi ed everything
I had hoped the garden would be.
That was emotional for me. The kids
were learning things that we weren’t
teaching overtly.
HEMISPHERES: I remember in your
husband’s book The Audacity of Hope, he
wrote that he sees in you “the slightest hint
of uncertainty, as if, deep inside, she knew
how fragile things really were.” Gardening’s
all about being mindful of the fragility of
the world. Do you think that’s why you
connected with it the way you did?
OBAMA: You’re asking me to go way
deeper than I think I’ve ever gone—
sheesh! Well, I’m sure that part of it is
being a mother and watching my own
kids grow. They’re at that age when
they’re starting to sprout like the garden
in summer. It’s such a powerful thing to
watch a kid change shoe sizes in a ma er
of months. It reminds you that time is
fl eeting. Things happen; a seed turns into
life. It’s instantaneous, in a way, but then
you have to care for that life. And that’s
something we’re also trying to show kids:
They have to take care of themselves like
they’re taking care of the plants in their
garden. I ask kids all the time if they’d
think to water their plants with soda,
and they’re usually like, “No, that would
be crazy.” But we can’t expect people to
know these things today. If a kid sees a
commercial for a sugary cereal, he’s going
to want it, but that cereal is not the best
food for this “plant” he’s trying to grow.
HEMISPHERES: It’s depressing that such a
simple insight seems so profound now.
OBAMA: You know, it didn’t used to be
that way. That’s the hope that I have,
that we see this change over the course
of my lifetime. What I’ve learned in dealing
with this issue is that we have all the
answers right in our hands. Solving this
problem doesn’t require new science, a
new drug. It’s right there—it’s learning
how to treat ourselves as gently as we
treat our gardens. With this generation
we’re rese ing the clock and restarting
the conversation.
HEMISPHERES: The book’s purpose is
serious, but there’s a bit of humor in there
too. You had a beehive—which now
contains about 70,000 bees—built on the
White House grounds. Your husband was
understandably concerned about this part
of the project, since the hive would be near
his basketball court. How’d you go about
convincing him?
OBAMA: You know, he didn’t really have
a say. [Laughs.] We did have to have a
discussion, though, because Malia is
terrifi ed of bees. She was stung once
and still harbors that fear. But a er she
talked to the beekeeper and saw the
hive, she understood that honeybees
are not killer a ack bees. They’re pre y
busy doing what they do. It didn’t take a
lot of convincing.
HEMISPHERES: She’s at peace with
the bees now?
OBAMA: She’s at peace with the bees.
They live in harmony way down by the
garden. We go down there o en just to
check them out. And they don’t swarm.
The hive is pre y far away from where
people are. It’s a safe entity. It’s an
accepted member of our hive.
HEMISPHERES: But they did swarm once,
over by the northwest gate. When the
beekeeper got there, he found the Secret
Service agents huddled in the guard booth.
Luckily, he managed to get the bees back
to the hive easily enough.
OBAMA: I didn’t hear about that until we
started the book, actually. No one told
me! It was a freak accident. And I didn’t
tell Malia about it.
HEMISPHERES: Hopefully she won’t read
this interview, then.
OBAMA: Trust me, if it involves me
she won’t read it. [Laughs.] They’re not
interested in what we do.
Hemispheres editor in chief JOE KEOHANE’s
basil plant actually winces when he
goes near it.
146 JUNE 2012 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

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FEATURES || THE BALLAD OF ADDIS ABABA
» CONTINUED FROM PAGE 86
and his children and grandchildren still
live there. Inside the house are Oriental
rugs and imported Italian crystal; outside
is a tall fence patrolled by two dogs and a
private guard (a common sight here). The
house stands alone on a vast empty lot.
The other homes were razed by the government,
which plans to take back the land
for development. Nerses’ off spring have
stubbornly refused to let this happen to
their own house. They want to preserve
history for future generations by turning
the home into a museum. When I visited
late last year, though, they were weary
from fi ghting. “You’d be er take pictures
of the house before it gets demolished,”
Nerses’ daughter Mary said. Considering
Nerses Nalbandian’s importance in Ethiopian
history, this beggars belief.
Nerses Nalbandian, whose family
had fled Turkey during the Armenian
genocide and settled in Syria, followed
his father to Addis in 1933, and taught
music to foreigners for years before being
asked by the culturally minded Emperor
Selassie in the 1950s to write scores for
the National Theatre. That was a major
honor, as those performances were then
broadcast weekly over national radio.
Nalbandian was charged with translating
traditional Ethiopian music to big band
arrangements, which was something no
one had ever done before. Nalbandian,
however, was uncommonly skilled. He
quickly fi gured out how to harmonize the
local sound—which has neither harmonies
nor scales that lend themselves to Western
instrumentation—without destroying it.
Like a hip, East African Lawrence Welk,
Nalbandian captured the ear of the nation
with his music. Future stars like Mahmoud
Ahmed and Mulatu Astatke (who went on
to become the father of Ethiojazz) spent
their youths listening to broadcasts of
Nalbandian’s hits. Over time, more bands
formed, nightclubs opened and Ethiopianlaced
rock and jazz was born—always,
always, in Amharic, and always employing
the eerie Ethiopian pentatonic scales and
Nerses’ unique harmonies.
Yet as quickly as it began, the story
almost ended. A Soviet-backed military
coup seized control of Ethiopia in 1974 (a
year a er Ellington played Addis) and set
about dismantling the musical culture
that Emperor Selassie had nurtured.
Clubs were shut down. Musicians were
harassed. Civil war fl ared up, sparking a
diaspora. Falceto, meanwhile, got to work
smuggling out the recordings that, in time,
would fi nd their way nearly 7,000 miles to
Russ Gershon.
WHEN GERSHON STUDIED Nerses
Nalbandian’s charts, notes and photos at
the family home, he felt a profound connection.
“They reminded me of my own
charts,” he says of the handwri en scores.
“I felt like I’d discovered a kindred spirit,
a brother who had been working on my
project a half-century before I was.”
He took on the project, and spent the
next seven years trying to fi nd the time
and money to return to Addis and stage the
fi rst all-Nalbandian concert in a generation.
He got a grant from the U.S. embassy
and supplemented it with a campaign with
the fundraising group Kickstarter. He
scrambled to locate former Nalbandian
sidemen to join the band. Many are gone
and the few who are still around are too
old to play, but he did fi nd Girma Negash,
the original singer of Nalbandian’s “Yene
Hasab,” a hit song for which Gershon had
the original charts. Though Negash, now in
his 70s, had been driving a bus for the past
40 years, when he showed up for practice
there was no doubt as to his chops. “Hearing
Girma sing made the hair on the back
of my neck stand up,” Gershon says.
The concert happened in May 2011 at the
original National Theatre. Before the show,
seniors were wondering whether it’d be as
good as they remembered, and members of
the younger set were eager to reclaim their
heritage and groove to the golden years.
Both groups would come away elated. Most
people recognized a few songs and sang
along. Special guests appeared, many of
them younger players like crooner Michael
Belayneh, 30, who recently returned to
Addis a er working in technology in the
U.S. for a couple of years. The crowd ate it
up. The music was back. “It was an odd and
wonderful feeling to be a kind of musical
and historical midwife,” Gershon recalls.
“We returned these sounds to the theater
where they had been born.”
Gershon had the concert professionally
recorded and is now mixing what he hopes
will become an all-Nalbandian album on
Falceto’s Ethiopiques label. Meanwhile,
the recording industry in Addis has never
been ho er. Members of the Addis Acoustic
Project are in huge demand as artists,
teachers and producers. Bassist Temesgen,
who co-founded a jazz music school when
he arrived in Addis in 2006, barely has time
to sleep—but that sure beats all those
years in New York, scraping to make rent
on a cramped apartment.
Following the Jazzamba gig, Gershon
visited the Nalbandians, who were downcast
about the future of their home. He said
goodbye and returned to Boston. Shortly
a er, he got an email. “Greetings to you all,”
it read. “The Municipality of Addis Ababa,
a er long deliberations, has decided not
to demolish the Nalbandian house in Arat
Kilo, as they have found that the house is
well constructed and the work done by our
father, Nerses Nalbandian, has entitled it to
become a national heritage site. We hope
to have the house converted into a musical
center in the name of Nerses Nalbandian.”
RACHEL SLADE’s tween daughter is mortifi ed
by her mother’s musical taste.
148 JUNE 2012 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

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HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • JUNE 2012 155
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Michael Cordúa
Celebrated Chef Michael Cordúa has
been a consulting chef for our airline
for more than 20 years. He is currently
the owner and executive chef of seven
award-winning Houston-area restaurants.
As a popular trail-blazer of Latin cuisine,
he has appeared on numerous television
programs and has been featured in various
culinary publications. We invite you to try
his recipe for The Grand Strip Steak with
Asparagus Ceviche.
Chef’s Tip
If you’re feeling more adventurous and it’s
available in your area, use American Bison
for this recipe. Bison is an excellent option
that is leaner, slightly richer and sweeter in
taste than beef.
Chef’s Corner
The Grand Strip Steak with Asparagus Ceviche
Yields 2 servings
The Grand Strip
2 16 ounce boneless New York strip steaks
1 tablespoon oil
Fresh cracked black pepper
Kosher salt
Directions
1 Rub half of the oil on all sides of the
strip steaks
2 Season all sides with fresh cracked
black pepper
3 In a cast iron skillet over medium high heat,
cook until the international temperature is
140F (3-5 minutes per side)
4 Transfer steaks to a plate and allow to rest
15 minutes before slicing into ¼ inch slices
5 Season steak with kosher salt before serving
CHEERS!
Cosentino The Cab 2009, California
Asparagus Ceviche
1 pound jumbo green asparagus,
1 inch diagonal slices
2 lemons, juiced
2 limes, juiced
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1 garlic clove, pressed or finely minced
1 medium red bell pepper, julienned
1 jalapeno, seeded and finely julienned
¼ small red onion, julienned
¼ cup cilantro, finely chopped
Salt and pepper
Directions
1 Place the asparagus in boiling water
for 3 minutes
2 Transfer the asparagus to ice water
to prevent over cooking
3 Drain and pat dry with paper towels
4 Toss with the remaining ingredients,
and salt and pepper, to taste
Cedar, rich black cherries and plums mark the best of California Cabernet, and winemaker Mitch
Cosentino has proven to be a master with the grape. This wine would be excellent with rich red meats.
- Doug Frost, Master Sommelier and Master of Wine

AVAILABLE FOR PURCHASE ON MOST NORTH AMERICA AND LATIN AMERICA
FLIGHTS. FRESH PRODUCTS OUT OF LATIN AMERICA MAY VARY DUE TO
PRODUCT AVAILABILITY. MOST FLIGHTS ACCEPT CREDIT/DEBIT CARDS ONLY.
à la carte
ALL DAY ON MOST FLIGHTS OVER 2 HOURS
PRINGLES® ORIGINAL POTATO CRISPS $2.99
M&M’S® PRETZEL CHOCOLATE CANDIES $2.99
TWO-BITE® CINNAMON ROLLS $2.99
CHEX MIX® $2.99
breakfast
ON MOST MORNING FLIGHTS OVER 3.5 HOURS
TWO-BITE® CINNAMON ROLLS $2.99
YOGURT PARFAIT $5.49
Low-fat vanilla yogurt with berries and granola.
CHEESE & FRUIT PLATE $7.49
Brie, Gouda, Muenster and cheddar cheeses, dried fruit and
pecan halves.
Available on select flights only:
HAM & CHEDDAR BREAKFAST SANDWICH $5.79
Ham and cheddar cheese on a ciabatta square served with Dijon
mustard-mayo sauce (served cold).
or
HOT BREAKFAST SANDWICH $5.99
Jimmy Dean® sausage, egg and cheese sandwich, accompanied
by fresh fruit and condiments.
lunch & dinner
ON MOST AFTERNOON AND EVENING FLIGHTS OVER 3.5 HOURS
ASIAN NOODLE SALAD $5.49
A chilled noodle salad topped with stir-fried vegetables, sweet
chile chicken breast and green onions.
CHICKEN SPINACH SALAD $9.49
Chicken breast, cherry tomatoes and carrots over spinach and
romaine lettuce, topped with crispy onions and served with
balsamic vinaigrette.
CHEESE & FRUIT PLATE $7.49
Brie, Gouda, Muenster and cheddar cheeses, dried fruit and
pecan halves.
THAI CHICKEN WRAP $8.59
Chicken breast, romaine lettuce, carrots, and red and yellow bell
peppers wrapped in a tortilla with Thai aïoli sauce.
Available on select flights only:
TURKEY SANDWICH $7.99
Smoked turkey with provolone cheese and lettuce on a pretzel roll
with stone-ground mustard-mayo sauce.
or
ANGUS CHEESEBURGER $7.99
Premium Angus beef with melted cheese, lettuce, tomato, pickles
and onion, served with traditional condiments.

snackboxes
ALL DAY ON MOST FLIGHTS OVER 2 HOURS
TAPAS $8.49
Oloves Marinated Olives
Roasted Red Pepper Bruschetta Spread
Wild Garden Hummus
Rondelé® Peppercorn Parmesan Cheese Spread
Fratelli Laurieri Scrocchi Al Rosmarino Crackers
Jacobs® Cream Crackers
Partners® Olive Oil and Sea Salt Crackers
Emerald® Natural Almonds
Mint
CLASSIC $7.49
Snyder’s® of Hanover Mini Pretzels
Crackers
Pepperidge Farm® Goldfish
Hard Salami
Cheddar Gourmet Cheese Spread
Jelly Belly® Assorted Flavors
Chips Ahoy! 100-Calorie Thin Crisps
SAVORY $7.29
Tortilla Chips
Mild Salsa
Granola Bar
Fruit & Nut Mix
Dark Chocolate Covered Pretzel
A portion of the proceeds from the ChoiceMenu program
will be donated to charity.
Menu and beverage options may vary by flight. We
apologize if your preferred choice is not available.
beverages
NON-ALCOHOLIC
Complimentary and available on most flights.
Coca-Cola, ® Coke Zero, ®
Diet Coke ®
Sprite, ® Sprite Zero ®
Minute Maid ® : Apple Juice,
Cranberry Apple Juice
Cocktail, Orange Juice
Mott’s ® Tomato Juice
Dasani Bottled Water
Mr. & Mrs. T’s ®
Bloody Mary Mix
Seagram’s ® : Ginger Ale,
Seltzer Water, Tonic Water
Freshbrew ® Kova Coffee
Decaffeinated Coffee
Hot Tea
AVAILABLE ON SELECT ROUTES
Cappuccino, Espresso and Specialty Regional Teas
ALCOHOLIC
Alcoholic beverages are available on most flights. Complimentary
in premium cabins. Priced as shown in economy cabin.
SPECIALTY COCKTAIL
MOST NORTH AMERICA FLIGHTS EXCEPT HAWAII
Salvador’s ® Margarita $7
MOST U.S. MAINLAND FLIGHTS TO/FROM HAWAII
Trader Vic’s ® Mai Tai $9
BEER $6
Budweiser ® , Miller ® Lite, Heineken ®
WINES $7
House Red and White
INTERNATIONAL & MOST FLIGHTS TO/FROM HAWAII
Sparkling Wine
Special wine selections are available for premium cabin customers.
Please ask your flight attendant about today’s selections.
SPIRITS $7
® ABSOLUT Vodka
® Bacardi Superior Light Rum
® Bombay Sapphire Dry Gin
® Canadian Club Whisky
® ® Dewar’s “White Label ”
Blended Scotch Whisky
®
Jack Daniel’s
Tennessee Whiskey
Jim Beam Black ® Kentucky
Straight Bourbon Whiskey
LIQUEURS & COGNAC $7
® Bailey’s Irish Cream
® Courvoisier VSOP Fine
Champagne Cognac
MOST INTERNATIONAL FLIGHTS
Crown Royal ®
Canadian Whisky
DISARONNO ® Amaretto*
* Also domestic premium cabins
® The Glenlivet Single Malt
Scotch Whisky
®
Grand Marnier
Kahlua ® *
Alcohol may be served to customers over 21 only. Customers are limited to one
alcoholic beverage at a time during service.
We are proud to recycle aluminum cans, newspapers, and plastic bottles on
eligible flights.
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