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Where to Stay - Turkey

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DISCOVERTURKEY<br />

where <strong>to</strong> stay


50|discoverTURKEY<br />

THELORYMA<br />

PENINSULA<br />

factfile<br />

Forbeach-lovers: Içmeler boasts the best beach<br />

in the area – a sweeping bay of coarse golden<br />

sand with a variety of watersports on offer<br />

Forculturevultures: Marmaris castle has been<br />

turned in<strong>to</strong> a museum displaying local artefacts.<br />

A little further afield, the ruined city of Knidos,<br />

lies at the end of the Datça peninsula.<br />

Forthrills: Marmaris is a big scuba diving centre<br />

for those who want <strong>to</strong> explore life under the sea.<br />

Forkids: Içmeler is ideal for a family beach holiday.<br />

There are aquaparks in both Marmaris and Içmeler.<br />

Forbargain-hunters: The narrow streets of Marmaris’<br />

old <strong>to</strong>wn and the bazaar are crammed full of stalls<br />

selling everything from T-shirts <strong>to</strong> pottery.<br />

Fornigh<strong>to</strong>wls: The establishments on Marmaris’<br />

lively bar street might not look like much from the<br />

outside but many of them open out in<strong>to</strong> huge courtyards<br />

where dancing continues till the early hours<br />

Gettingawayfromthecrowds: Turunç is a charming, laidback<br />

resort easily visited by boat from Marmaris or Içmeler.<br />

Eatingout: Marmaris has adapted so well <strong>to</strong> her foreign<br />

guests that it is as easy <strong>to</strong> find a Sunday roast, a Chinese<br />

or Indian meal as <strong>to</strong> find traditional Turkish fare.<br />

Greatdaysout: Marmaris harbour is the starting point<br />

for gulets embarking on the famous Blue Cruise. Take<br />

a day trip <strong>to</strong> visit Cleopatra’s Island – it is said that the<br />

sand was imported from Africa by Martk An<strong>to</strong>ny for<br />

Cleopatra. Alternatively, for a change of atmosphere<br />

catch the hydrofoil over <strong>to</strong> the Greek island of Rhodes.<br />

Nearestairport: Dalaman<br />

Distance: Marmaris 115kms; Içmeler 125kms<br />

discoverturkeyatwww.go<strong>to</strong>turkey.co.uk<br />

Marmaris<br />

Marmaris is one of <strong>Turkey</strong>’s most popular resorts, which attracts lots<br />

of British holidaymakers, many of whom return year after year. It is a<br />

favourite with families and young couples alike. Due <strong>to</strong> its popularity,<br />

it has grown enormously over the years, hotels rapidly filling the space<br />

between the green hills and the azure seas. It is in a stunning setting,<br />

its geography remarkably similar <strong>to</strong> that of the fjords, with pine-clad<br />

hills dropping steeply <strong>to</strong> the sea, jagged inlets and tiny rocky islets<br />

off the coast.<br />

There is a wide choice of accommodation, from five star luxury <strong>to</strong><br />

self-catering apartments, but the vast majority is of three star standard.<br />

What the buildings lack in character they make up for in offering value<br />

for money. Most of the accommodation is built on either side of the<br />

main seafront road, some is on the seafront itself, but many of the newer


imagecourtesy ofAna<strong>to</strong>lianSky<br />

hotels are on the hillside<br />

in areas such as Armutalan.<br />

The beach can get busy in high season, but many people prefer<br />

<strong>to</strong> stay by the hotel pool. Lined with palms, the seafront has a<br />

typical Mediterranean feel and is a great place for an evening<br />

promenade. Shops, bars and restaurants line the streets, vying<br />

with each other <strong>to</strong> secure your cus<strong>to</strong>m for dinner – each offering<br />

something more attractive than the last. There is no hassle though<br />

– the local authorities are strict about <strong>to</strong>uts operating in the street,<br />

which makes for a more relaxed atmosphere.<br />

By day, life revolves around the narrow strip of sandy beach which<br />

runs the length of the resort. Each morning boats leave from the<br />

old harbour for day trips <strong>to</strong> visit the islands and bays around the<br />

coast. The area around the harbour offers a taste of the character<br />

of the old <strong>to</strong>wn, overlooked by the ancient castle, which is now a<br />

3Marmarismarina<br />

Marmaris<br />

3Içmelerbay<br />

Içmeler<br />

TheLorymaPeninsula<br />

Turunç<br />

museum. The Netsel marina is reached by<br />

a small footbridge, and is one of the largest<br />

and most modern in <strong>Turkey</strong>, the hangout of<br />

the jetset, who moor their luxury yachts here.<br />

The small shopping centre houses upmarket<br />

boutiques and intimate restaurants. The real<br />

bargains are <strong>to</strong> be found in the bazaar area,<br />

with hundreds of small shops offering the<br />

usual Turkish wares – clothing, leather, jewellery and handicrafts.<br />

There is a wide variety of goods on offer, and it definitely pays <strong>to</strong><br />

look around and hone your bartering skills <strong>to</strong> get the best prices.<br />

Marmaris really comes <strong>to</strong> life though as the sun sets. The shops in<br />

the narrow streets stay open until late and the bars<br />

and clubs are open until the early hours of the<br />

didyouknow?<br />

Theoldestknownhumansettlement<br />

isinCatalhöyük,incentralAna<strong>to</strong>lia,<br />

<strong>Turkey</strong> whichdatesback<strong>to</strong>6,500 BC.<br />

factfile where<strong>to</strong>stay<br />

relaxation<br />

his<strong>to</strong>ry&culture


52|discoverTURKEY<br />

morning. It is very easy <strong>to</strong> get around, the main<br />

resort area is fairly flat so shouldn’t pose <strong>to</strong>o<br />

many problems for those pushing pushchairs or<br />

wheelchairs. There are shuttle services operating<br />

in high season between Marmaris and İçmeler, as<br />

well as the ubiqui<strong>to</strong>us dolmuşes which run from<br />

all areas of both resorts and on <strong>to</strong> Turunç. There<br />

are also boat services between the main resorts<br />

and even late at night it is easy <strong>to</strong> find taxis.<br />

imagecourtesy ofAna<strong>to</strong>lianSky<br />

İçmeler<br />

İçmeler is a popular resort with families, and<br />

it is easy <strong>to</strong> see why. It is much greener than<br />

neighbouring Marmaris, with wide streets lined<br />

with trees and a relaxed ambience. It nestles in<br />

the shelter of dramatic pine-clad mountains with<br />

Nekadar?<br />

Howmuch?<br />

discoverturkeyatwww.go<strong>to</strong>turkey.co.uk<br />

a wide sweeping bay of coarse sand, where all<br />

kinds of watersports are available. The waters<br />

are shallow and calm making it relatively safe<br />

for children. The views from the beach are<br />

stunning, as it appears <strong>to</strong> be almost surrounded<br />

by mountains, dropping steeply in<strong>to</strong> the sea.<br />

There is an abundance of restaurants, serving a<br />

full range of Turkish and international cuisine,<br />

plenty of lively bars and lots of shops. For those<br />

who want serious nightlife, Marmaris is just a<br />

short dolmuş or taxi ride away. There is a full<br />

range of hotel and self-catering accommodation<br />

here, including luxurious 4 and 5 star hotels<br />

set right on or overlooking the seafront. Boats<br />

head out from the bay for day-trips around<br />

the stunning coastline, taking in the tiny islets<br />

around the coast. The main resort area is flat,<br />

which makes getting around very easy, even<br />

with a pushchair or wheelchair, although some<br />

of the outlying areas are on slopes.<br />

Turunç<br />

Turunç is reached by a steep, winding road,<br />

which snakes around the mountains from<br />

İçmeler. As you round a sharp bend, you catch<br />

your first glimpse of the resort lying in front of<br />

you, steep mountains giving way <strong>to</strong> the small<br />

copyrightedimagekindly suppliedbyExclusiveEscapes<br />

5UnspoiltbeachontheBozburunpeninsula<br />

bay with its sparkling waters and sandy beach.<br />

Turunç is a sleepy resort, full of character. The<br />

accommodation here is mainly small family-run<br />

hotels, with some good self-catering properties.<br />

The main street has a good selection of<br />

restaurants with a few music bars, and enough<br />

shops <strong>to</strong> cater for your immediate holiday<br />

requirements. The roads which lead down <strong>to</strong><br />

the resort are steep, however, so it is not ideal<br />

for those who have difficulty in walking. Boats<br />

leave from the charming quayside for daytrips<br />

around the surrounding bays and there are also<br />

water taxi services <strong>to</strong> Marmaris, approximately<br />

30 minutes away, for those who want <strong>to</strong> do<br />

some serious bargain-hunting.<br />

Akyaka<br />

Akyaka is popular with local Turkish holidaymakers,<br />

but accommodation here is only<br />

available through a handful of UK opera<strong>to</strong>rs. It<br />

is less than a hour’s drive from Marmaris but in<br />

character is worlds away. It is perfect for those<br />

who want <strong>to</strong> experience the real <strong>Turkey</strong>, away<br />

from the crowds. Little more than a village,<br />

part of its charm comes from the distinctive


local architecture, with octagonal shaped<br />

houses with intricately carved wooden<br />

ceilings, balconies and window frames.<br />

Lying in the Azmak river valley, Akyaka<br />

is surrounded by fragrant eucalyptus trees.<br />

The river winds down through fields <strong>to</strong> the<br />

seafront, where there is a small sandy beach<br />

and a number of beachfront restaurants. A<br />

few miles outside the <strong>to</strong>wn, reached by<br />

road or sea is the attractive Çakalı Plajı<br />

or pebble beach. There are a number of<br />

excellent fish restaurants on the river, and<br />

imagecourtesy of<br />

ExclusiveEscapes<br />

a small village centre with more restaurants<br />

and a few shops. There is a small chemist<br />

but no bank and any major purchases are<br />

best made in Marmaris.<br />

Datça<br />

Datça is set <strong>to</strong> the end of the peninsula,<br />

which stretches out <strong>to</strong> the west at the point<br />

where the Aegean meets the Mediterranean,<br />

facing the tiny Greek island of Simi. It is a<br />

popular s<strong>to</strong>pping off point for the gulets on<br />

a Blue Cruise from Bodrum or Marmaris,<br />

but is relatively difficult <strong>to</strong> access by road,<br />

even though Marmaris is just 75 kms away,<br />

which means that it has remained relatively<br />

undeveloped. This is a blessing for the<br />

visi<strong>to</strong>rs who come here for its unspoilt<br />

beauty and authentic atmosphere. It is a<br />

charming village, its whitewashed buildings<br />

draped with bougainvillea, with plenty of<br />

shops, bars and restaurants serving mostly<br />

fish and traditional Turkish fare. There are<br />

some beautiful beaches nearby including<br />

the bays of Aktur and Kargı. There is a<br />

regular ferry service <strong>to</strong> Bodrum as well<br />

as <strong>to</strong> the Greek island of Simi. The ruins<br />

of the ancient Carian city of Knidos stand<br />

at the end of the peninsula, some 38 kms<br />

away. The city was famed for its temple of<br />

Aphrodite, the remains of which can still be<br />

seen <strong>to</strong>day, and was an important centre of<br />

art and culture in the 4th century BC.<br />

strangebuttrue<br />

StNicholas–theoriginalSantaClaus–wasborninPatarain<strong>Turkey</strong><br />

andhasachurchdedicated<strong>to</strong>himinDemre.<br />

5A smallcovenearTurunç.<br />

6(below)Marmaris Castle<br />

6(bot<strong>to</strong>m)Içmeler Bay<br />

TheLorymaPeninsula<br />

imagecourtesy of<br />

Ana<strong>to</strong>lianSky<br />

factfile where<strong>to</strong>stay<br />

relaxation<br />

his<strong>to</strong>ry&culture


54|discoverTURKEY<br />

THEBODRUM<br />

PENINSULA<br />

factfile<br />

Forbeach-lovers: The best sandy bay in the area is that of<br />

Bitez, although Gümbet <strong>to</strong>o has a sandy beach and plenty<br />

of watersports - Bodrum doesn’t have a beach of its own.<br />

Forculturevultures: Visit the ancient theatre,<br />

overlooking the <strong>to</strong>wn, which is just about all that remains<br />

of the city of Halicarnassus. The castle <strong>to</strong>o houses an<br />

interesting museum which displays shipwrecks and<br />

other items recovered by divers from the vicinity.<br />

Forthrills: Head for Gümbet beach where there is a range<br />

of watersports including parasailing and water-skiing.<br />

Forkids: Bitez is perfect for a relaxed family<br />

holiday. There are 2 Aquaparks, one on the road<br />

<strong>to</strong> Ortakent and the other in Bodrum itself.<br />

Forbargain-hunters: On Tuesdays there is a clothing<br />

market and on Fridays a fruit and vegetable market – a<br />

must for those staying in self-catering accommodation<br />

– which also sells a range of other goods.<br />

Fornigh<strong>to</strong>wls: Bodrum is renowned for its<br />

nightlife, including the famous Halikarnas open-air<br />

disco, which has fantastic views over the castle,<br />

and a spectacular laser light and floor show.<br />

Gettingawayfromthecrowds: Head for one<br />

of the small villages on the peninsula for lunch<br />

in Yalıkavak or snorkelling in Gümüşlük.<br />

Eatingout: Bodrum is also popular with local<br />

Turkish <strong>to</strong>urists, so you can find everything from<br />

traditional fare <strong>to</strong> international cuisine.<br />

Greatdaysout: Take a boat trip <strong>to</strong> see the<br />

sights of the original Blue Cruise, exploring<br />

the neighbouring islands and coves.<br />

NearestAirport: Bodrum<br />

Distance: Bodrum 33 km, Milas 16<br />

km, Gümbet 41 km, Bitez 46km<br />

discoverturkeyatwww.go<strong>to</strong>turkey.co.uk<br />

Bodrum<br />

Situated on a peninsula, Bodrum is one of the most chic and European<br />

resorts in <strong>Turkey</strong>, its charm residing in its blend of relaxed Mediterranean<br />

atmosphere, his<strong>to</strong>rical architecture and its proximity <strong>to</strong> a vast<br />

array of fantastic beaches, fishing villages and trendy nightclubs. The<br />

city, known in ancient times as Halicarnassus, <strong>to</strong>wn of Herodotus, has<br />

grown dramatically in recent years with the opening of an international<br />

airport – yet its delightful charm remains intact with palm-lined streets<br />

and whitewashed, flat-roofed houses dotted across its terraced hillsides.<br />

The views of the city are exceptionally striking against the stunning<br />

backdrop of the Castle of St Peter, which stands formidably between<br />

the city’s twin bays. It is even more spectacular in the summer as<br />

Bodrum bursts in<strong>to</strong> colour with cascades of bright pink and purple<br />

bougainvillea flowing from the dazzling white houses that line its<br />

narrow streets, winding down <strong>to</strong>wards the sea.


Bodrum is also the yachting<br />

centre of <strong>Turkey</strong> and<br />

its world-class Marina is a favourite destination for yachts that<br />

cruise the Aegean and the Mediterranean. It is an excellent place<br />

from which <strong>to</strong> organise a sailing trip with a vast number of sailing<br />

companies who cater for all levels of sailing experience. Most will<br />

organise boats with or without a crew so whether you are looking<br />

<strong>to</strong> organise a day-trip or take a longer sailing holiday, you can<br />

take advantage of the crystal-clear azure seas, stunning coastline<br />

and myriad of rocky coves and sandy beaches nearby. Oc<strong>to</strong>ber is<br />

also the month of the Bodrum Cup Race, attracting yachts from<br />

around the world.<br />

Another major attraction of Bodrum is its buzzing cafes, restaurants<br />

and shops, as well as its wealth of trendy and sophisticated<br />

nightlife. By day, the central bazaar is a great place for shopping<br />

3BodrumMarinaisapopularcentrefor<br />

Gulet Cruisingthroughout theregion<br />

Gümuşluk<br />

Turgutrels<br />

Yalıkavak<br />

Türkbüku<br />

Bitez<br />

Gümbet Bodrum<br />

3Thewindmills scatteredalong<br />

thehillsaroundBodrum–now<br />

sadlyfallingin<strong>to</strong>disrepair<br />

BodrumPeninsula<br />

with its array of leather, clothes, carpets, and<br />

assorted souvenir and gift shops. Or, if you<br />

venture in<strong>to</strong> the narrow streets of the old<br />

<strong>to</strong>wn around Meyhaneler Sokak, you will<br />

discover chic boutiques and souvenir shops,<br />

along with rustic Turkish restaurants. There<br />

is also a weekly market near the bus station<br />

if you want a colourful taste of the native<br />

produce, including the delicious locally grown tangerines.<br />

But the city really comes <strong>to</strong> life at night, with a magical atmosphere<br />

that doesn’t sleep until dawn. Whether you are searching<br />

for romantic harbour-side dinners, an evening promenade or<br />

sipping cocktails in the upmarket marina, there is<br />

something <strong>to</strong> suit everyone. Bodrum also boasts<br />

didyouknow?<br />

TheVirginMary spenther<br />

lastdaysinSelçuk,near the<br />

ancientcityofEphesus.<br />

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relaxation<br />

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56|discoverTURKEY<br />

some of the most sophisticated and trendy bars<br />

and clubs in <strong>Turkey</strong>, many with imported DJs,<br />

including the internationally famous Halikarnas<br />

Disco complete with stunning views of the<br />

bay below.<br />

Bodrum has accommodation <strong>to</strong> suit all tastes<br />

and budgets dotted in and around its pretty<br />

<strong>to</strong>wn centre, but the quietest places <strong>to</strong> stay are<br />

in the west of <strong>to</strong>wn and in the hills <strong>to</strong>wards the<br />

east. In <strong>to</strong>wn, many people like <strong>to</strong> stay in the<br />

Kumbahçe Mahalle away from Cumhuriyet<br />

Caddesi, or in the Tepecik district, along or just<br />

off Neyzen Tevfik Caddesi. Getting around is<br />

also easy with the dolmuş shuttle-services and<br />

buses that operate frequent services from the<br />

Bodrum o<strong>to</strong>gar <strong>to</strong> all the nearby <strong>to</strong>wns and<br />

villages scattered around the peninsula. Taxis<br />

are another very common way <strong>to</strong> get around,<br />

and are easy <strong>to</strong> find even at night.<br />

Gümbet<br />

Named after the domed water-cisterns that<br />

speckle the countryside near-by, Gümbet is<br />

the closest beach <strong>to</strong> Bodrum – just 10 minutes<br />

discoverturkeyatwww.go<strong>to</strong>turkey.co.uk<br />

Nasılsınız? İyiyim<br />

Howareyou?I’mfine<br />

away by car - and is very popular with British<br />

holidaymakers, many of whom choose <strong>to</strong> stay<br />

here close <strong>to</strong> the beach and venture in<strong>to</strong> Bodrum<br />

at night. As it has grown in popularity, however,<br />

Gümbet has developed in its own right and<br />

now offers a wide choice of lively bars and<br />

restaurants, popular with a young crowd. Its long<br />

sandy beach is lined with hotels and pensions<br />

which attract many young people and watersports<br />

enthusiasts with its large windsurfing<br />

school and diving courses. Other beach-front<br />

watersports are also very popular in Gümbet,<br />

including parasailing, ringo and water-skiing.<br />

Getting <strong>to</strong> the centre of Bodrum from Gümbet is<br />

very easy with regular dolmuş and bus services,<br />

as well as a small caique (boat) service that runs<br />

from the beach.<br />

Gümüşlük<br />

Reached by a winding road from Gürece,<br />

Gümüşlük is very popular for its secluded setting.<br />

Ever since being designated as an archaeological<br />

site, no major buildings have been allowed <strong>to</strong><br />

alter the landscape, making it a very pleasant<br />

place <strong>to</strong> stay with its unspoilt scenery, long sand<br />

5StPeter’s Castlehasdominatedthis<br />

harbour sinceit wasbuiltin1402.<br />

and gravel beach and a handful of excellent fish<br />

restaurants perched right on the sea-front. The<br />

site of ancient Myndos, Gümüşlük is scattered<br />

with remnants of its his<strong>to</strong>rical past: as you<br />

look out <strong>to</strong>wards the harbour you will spot<br />

the fortification wall, an ancient <strong>to</strong>wer and<br />

submerged walls. Also, if you walk <strong>to</strong>wards the<br />

south end of the beach, you will also be able <strong>to</strong><br />

swim very close <strong>to</strong> some of the ruins, making<br />

it the perfect spot for snorkelling. Gümüşlük<br />

is accessible by dolmuş from Bodrum or from<br />

Turgutreis.<br />

Turgutreis<br />

A sophisticated new marina adorns the waterfront<br />

at Turgutreis, complete with exclusive<br />

cafes, restaurants and boutiques, as well as a<br />

host of new bars and discos. Though not very<br />

sandy, its beach is very popular with families<br />

because the sea is shallow for quite a way<br />

out, making it safer for young children. For a<br />

more peaceful alternative <strong>to</strong> the main beach,


5ThebuildingofBodrum’sancient theatrewas startedbyMausolus<br />

4Bodrumisknownforitsenergeticandexcitingnightlife<br />

there is also a long and sandy beach near<br />

the lighthouse on the way <strong>to</strong>wards Akyarlar.<br />

There is also good access <strong>to</strong> Bodrum<br />

from Turgutreis, with a regular dolmuş<br />

service that s<strong>to</strong>ps at the main square in<br />

Turgutreis.<br />

Yalıkavak<br />

Formerly the area’s main sponge-fishing<br />

port, the village of Yalıkavak maintains<br />

a relaxing atmosphere for quaint seaside<br />

eating. Its position in the north-western<br />

corner of the peninsula, 18km from Bodrum<br />

means it is one of the least developed spots<br />

in the area with fewer hotels and self-catering<br />

apartments, making it an enjoyable stay<br />

away from the crowds. As you reach the<br />

bay, you will notice the ruins of three old<br />

windmills on the hills - the hills around<br />

the village are also perfect for picnics and<br />

walks, particularly in the spring<br />

when they are covered with a<br />

colourful carpet of wild flowers bursting<br />

newly in<strong>to</strong> bloom.<br />

Türkbükü<br />

Türkbükü is one of Bodrum’s best-kept<br />

secrets with its array of exclusive hotels,<br />

excellent sea-front restaurants situated on<br />

wooden piers and trendy bars that burst in<strong>to</strong><br />

life after sunset. By day, its beach-front<br />

cafes and hotels are havens for the jet-set,<br />

with fantastic views of the beautiful bay and<br />

wooden platforms dotted with sophisticated<br />

sun-loungers from which <strong>to</strong> swim.<br />

Bitez<br />

Bitez lies on a bay, a few kilometres west<br />

from Bodrum, attracting an older, more<br />

upmarket crowd. The gently-sloping coarsesand<br />

beach has wooden piers for swimming<br />

and is lined with whitewashed hotels and<br />

resort villas, whilst also host <strong>to</strong> a popular<br />

strangebuttrue<br />

LeonardodaVincidrewdesignsforabridgeover theBosphorus,the<br />

strait thatflows throughEuropeandAsia.It wasneverbuilt.<br />

BodrumPeninsula<br />

windsurfing and sailing school - Its sheltered<br />

cove and shallow water are perfect<br />

for beginners. Backed by lush tangerine<br />

orchards, Bitez is perfect for those who<br />

want <strong>to</strong> escape the crowds, whilst also<br />

having good access <strong>to</strong> Bodrum with direct<br />

dolmuses <strong>to</strong> and from the city.<br />

Ortakent<br />

You can reach Ortakent from the main<br />

highway west of Bodrum and it is very<br />

popular with Turkish families. Its two-kilometre<br />

long beach is considered by many <strong>to</strong><br />

be one of the best on the peninsula and is<br />

dotted with several restaurants, motels and<br />

some unique <strong>to</strong>wer-houses.<br />

factfile where<strong>to</strong>stay<br />

relaxation<br />

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58|discoverTURKEY<br />

THEFETHIYE<br />

REGION<br />

factfile<br />

Forbeach-lovers: The stunning lagoon of Ölüdeniz<br />

is one of the best in <strong>Turkey</strong>, or you can join the<br />

locals at the nearby pebble beach of Gemiler.<br />

Forculturevultures: Head <strong>to</strong> Fethiye Museum, and<br />

check out the theatre of Telmessos, built in the early<br />

Roman period, which was only excavated in 1994.<br />

Forthrills: Ölüdeniz is one of the best places<br />

for Paragliding in the world. The Dalaman river<br />

is good for white-water rafting and Fethiye<br />

is also a big centre for scuba diving.<br />

Forkids: The beaches here are gently shelving and<br />

great for children. Older kids will enjoy the pedalloes on<br />

the lagoon itself. There is also an Aquapark in Çalış.<br />

Forbargain-hunters: Fethiye’s Tuesday<br />

market is the largest in the area, and there are<br />

also smaller markets in Hisarönü on Mondays<br />

and Günlükbaşı (for Calış) on Sundays.<br />

Fornigh<strong>to</strong>wls: Hisarönü is probably the liveliest – with a<br />

few good dance bars which stay open till the early hours.<br />

Gettingawayfromthecrowds: The s<strong>to</strong>ne village<br />

of Kaya is quite literally deserted. If you set off<br />

early in the morning, before the sun is <strong>to</strong>o high,<br />

it makes a pleasant walk from Hisarönü. S<strong>to</strong>p for<br />

lunch in one of the village restaurants nearby.<br />

Eatingout: A wide choice of Turkish and international<br />

cuisine in resorts, but a visit <strong>to</strong> the area would be<br />

incomplete without sampling some locally caught fresh fish.<br />

Greatdaysout: Visit the ancient Lycian city of Tlos<br />

and marvel at the ruins that overlook the breathtaking<br />

Xanthos Valley including an Ot<strong>to</strong>man fortress,<br />

Lycian <strong>to</strong>mbs, a theatre and a bath complex.<br />

Nearestairport: Dalaman<br />

Distance: Fethiye 40 kms; Ölü Deniz 48 kms<br />

discoverturkeyatwww.go<strong>to</strong>turkey.co.uk<br />

Ölüdeniz<br />

Ölüdeniz is the archetypal picture-postcard beach, backed by dramatic<br />

pine-clad hills, and is the view that you see on many a brochure cover.<br />

Literally translated as ‘dead sea’, the stunning lagoon is a protected area,<br />

ensuring that its natural beauty is preserved. There is a small entrance<br />

charge <strong>to</strong> use the lagoon beach and only non-mo<strong>to</strong>rised watersports<br />

are allowed on the lagoon itself. The main resort beach, which is free<br />

entry, is the long stretch of coarse sand and shingle, known as Belceğiz<br />

beach. Most of the accommodation, built in the traditional local Muğla<br />

style, is set back from the beachfront and in the streets behind. There<br />

is a strip alongside the seafront promenade with a number of relaxed<br />

bars, restaurants serving local and international cuisine and shops,<br />

which stay open well in<strong>to</strong> the night. It is a perfect family resort, great<br />

for a laid-back beach holiday, with plenty of facilities but not <strong>to</strong>o much<br />

development. Boats leave from the bay for trips around the surrounding


coast and paragliding is a<br />

big draw with the descent<br />

from the Babadağ mountains <strong>to</strong> land on Belceğiz beach, rating as<br />

one of the best in the world.<br />

Hisarönü<br />

Fifteen years ago there were only a few houses here but now it is<br />

a lively resort in its own right. Due <strong>to</strong> the planning restrictions and<br />

lack of space <strong>to</strong> expand in Ölüdeniz itself, many holidaymakers now<br />

stay in this lively village. It is in a stunning location, surrounded<br />

by stunning pine-clad mountains, and hotels are all built in the<br />

local style, low rise, mostly with rooms set in villa-style blocks<br />

and decorative wooden balconies. The beach of Ölüdeniz is just<br />

a short dolmuş ride away (approx. 15 minutes), and the <strong>to</strong>wn of<br />

Fethiye is also easily reached, approximately the same distance<br />

3Paraglidingover thestunninglagoonofÖlüdeniz.<br />

imagecourtesy of<br />

ExclusiveEscapes<br />

Göcek<br />

Ölüdeniz<br />

TheFethiyeRegion<br />

Fethiye<br />

Hisarönü<br />

3TheeeriedesertedhousesofKayaköy<br />

away in the opposite direction. You can,<br />

however, easily spend your time in Hisarönü<br />

itself, lazing by the pool, and venturing out<br />

at night <strong>to</strong> sample international or local fare<br />

in one of the many restaurants, and visit its lively bars playing<br />

music well in<strong>to</strong> the early hours. There are plenty of shops here<br />

<strong>to</strong>o, with a wider range on offer than in Ölüdeniz itself.<br />

didyouknow?<br />

Julius Caesar proclaimedhiscelebrated<br />

words,“Veni,Vidi,Vici” (Icame,Isaw,I<br />

conquered)in<strong>Turkey</strong> whenhedefeated<br />

thePontus,aformidablekingdom<br />

intheBlackSearegionof<strong>Turkey</strong>.<br />

factfile where<strong>to</strong>stay<br />

relaxation<br />

his<strong>to</strong>ry&culture


60|discoverTURKEY<br />

Ovacık<br />

Just a short distance from Hisarönü, is the newer<br />

resort area of Ovacık, which is essentially a<br />

collection of hotels and apartment buildings,<br />

blending in with the stunning mountain scenery.<br />

It is more peaceful than its neighbour, and all<br />

facilities are in the centre of Hisarönü just a<br />

short walk or dolmuş ride away. Ovacık makes<br />

a good base for those who want <strong>to</strong> walk in the<br />

surrounding countryside.<br />

Fethiye<br />

Fethiye is a traditional market <strong>to</strong>wn set around<br />

a beautiful natural harbour. It is a big centre for<br />

scuba diving and boats leave from here for day<br />

trips around the stunning coastline. The most<br />

popular is the 12 islands boat trip, a relaxing<br />

way <strong>to</strong> spend the day, <strong>to</strong>uring the beautiful<br />

coves and islands of the Gulf of Fethiye, with<br />

breaks for lunch and swimming. Life here<br />

continues all year round, and recently, many<br />

British nationals have chosen <strong>to</strong> make this<br />

relaxed area their home. There are a number of<br />

hotels in the <strong>to</strong>wn itself, which mostly attract<br />

older couples, who enjoy the traditional lifestyle<br />

and also like the fact that it is flat and easy <strong>to</strong><br />

get around. There is a greater variety of shops<br />

discoverturkeyatwww.go<strong>to</strong>turkey.co.uk<br />

En yakın plaj nerede?<br />

<strong>Where</strong> is the nearest beach?<br />

in the narrow streets of the bazaar area, Paspatur,<br />

offering more competitive prices than those<br />

in any of the resorts. In the evenings head for<br />

this lively area for live music and Turkish bars.<br />

There is no beach in Fethiye itself although<br />

there are hotels which have access <strong>to</strong> the sea<br />

for swimming. Once the site of the ancient city<br />

of Telmessos, all that remains are the Lycian<br />

rock <strong>to</strong>mbs, which overlook the modern <strong>to</strong>wn,<br />

a couple of Lycian sarcophagi and a small<br />

Roman theatre.<br />

3The spectacular and unforgettable<br />

SaklıkentGorge<br />

Çalış Beach<br />

The nearest beach <strong>to</strong> Fethiye is Çalış beach, a<br />

pebble and coarse sand beach in a beautiful<br />

setting, which can be reached by boat or dolmuş<br />

from the <strong>to</strong>wn centre. The seafront promenade<br />

with its hotels and restaurants is closed <strong>to</strong> traffic<br />

during the summer, making it safe for children.<br />

The resort has expanded around the beach, and<br />

has a relaxed feel popular with families and<br />

older couples.<br />

Kayaköy<br />

One of the highlights of a stay in this area<br />

is a visit <strong>to</strong> the eerie ghost <strong>to</strong>wn of Kayaköy,<br />

literally ‘s<strong>to</strong>ne village’. Once the Greek <strong>to</strong>wn<br />

of Karmylassos, it was abandoned in the 1920’s.<br />

It has recently been the subject of renewed<br />

interest as it features as the setting for Louis de<br />

Bernières novel, ‘Birds without Wings’which<br />

provides a fascinating insight in<strong>to</strong> life here and<br />

the period of dramatic social change which <strong>to</strong>ok<br />

place in the time leading up <strong>to</strong> the foundation<br />

of the Republic of <strong>Turkey</strong>. There are around<br />

400 houses here <strong>to</strong>gether with churches and<br />

other public buildings. It can be visited by<br />

dolmuş, on foot from Hisarönü or even on<br />

horse-back.<br />

Göcek<br />

Göcek is popular with yachting types who come<br />

here for its excellent marina. It is a charming<br />

resort with a range of sophisticated hotels and<br />

upmarket restaurants and boutiques.<br />

Saklıkent Gorge<br />

Known in Turkish as the ‘hidden city’,<br />

Saklıkent is a stunning mountain gorge some<br />

44 kms from Fethiye, a narrow opening stretching<br />

an incredible 18 kms in<strong>to</strong> the rockface of<br />

Mount Akdağ. A wooden walkway has been<br />

constructed above the icy cold waters of the<br />

mountain springs of Gökçesu and Ulupınar. If<br />

you are feeling particularly brave you can take<br />

a dip here, but otherwise the waterside cafes<br />

provide a relaxing break and a chance <strong>to</strong> enjoy<br />

the spectacular setting.


5TheviewoverÖlüdenizlagoon<br />

TheFethiyeRegion<br />

copyrightedimagekindly suppliedbyExclusiveEscapes<br />

factfile where<strong>to</strong>stay<br />

relaxation<br />

his<strong>to</strong>ry&culture


62|discoverTURKEY<br />

THETURKISH<br />

RIVIERA<br />

factfile<br />

Forbeach-lovers: Side has a long stretch of<br />

golden sand, known appropriately as Kumköy<br />

or ‘sand village’, with many of its newer, more<br />

luxurious hotels leading right on <strong>to</strong> the beach.<br />

Forculturevultures: You really don’t have <strong>to</strong> go<br />

far afield. Side’s Temple of Apollo makes a romantic<br />

spot at sunset, and the ancient theatre and charming<br />

museum are well worth exploring, but set off early in<br />

the morning so that you will miss the sun at its height,<br />

Forthrills: Head up in<strong>to</strong> the hills for a jeep<br />

safari <strong>to</strong> explore the beautiful mountain<br />

scenery and discover traditional villages.<br />

Forkids: The beach is ideal for kids, and there<br />

is a big Aquapark in Antalya, nearby<br />

Forbargain-hunters: Side is full of shops, its narrow<br />

streets packed with stalls selling everything imaginable.<br />

Fornigh<strong>to</strong>wls: Side has good night life. The old <strong>to</strong>wn<br />

has a few bars, mostly with an authentic atmosphere,<br />

some with views over the old peninsula and the ruins.<br />

There are some large night clubs just outside the <strong>to</strong>wn,<br />

some of which operate shuttle services from the centre.<br />

Gettingawayfromthecrowds: Take a boat trip on<br />

the stunning Manavgat River, where you can swim<br />

in the cool waters, relax and enjoy the scenery.<br />

Eatingout: There are plenty of restaurants in Side,<br />

serving a range of local food and Turkish specialities.<br />

Greatdaysout: Visit Antalya, the main city of this region<br />

<strong>to</strong> see its charming old <strong>to</strong>wn, Kaleiçi, or play a round<br />

of golf at one of the superb courses at nearby Belek.<br />

Nearestairport: Antalya<br />

Distance: Side 50 kms, Kemer 60 kms,<br />

Alanya 125 kms, Belek 25 kms<br />

discoverturkeyatwww.go<strong>to</strong>turkey.co.uk<br />

The Turkish Riviera is the most stunning part of <strong>Turkey</strong>’s Mediterranean<br />

coast. A relatively recent discovery for British and Irish holidaymakers,<br />

it is growing rapidly in popularity.<br />

Side<br />

The old <strong>to</strong>wn of Side is set on a peninsula with sandy beaches <strong>to</strong> either<br />

side, surrounded still by the ancient city walls. It boasts an impressive<br />

ancient Hellenistic theatre, the largest in the area, with seating for 17,000,<br />

overlooking the sea; a charming museum and the stunning Temple of<br />

Apollo, a romantic spot at sunset. The old <strong>to</strong>wn is limited by the walls<br />

and the sea, which has been a bonus, meaning that the accommodation<br />

here is mostly pensions and small hotels. The long stretch of sandy<br />

beach a few kilometres outside the old <strong>to</strong>wn, known with good reason as<br />

‘kumköy’ or ‘sand village’, has become the centre of <strong>to</strong>urism development<br />

in the <strong>to</strong>wn and is now home <strong>to</strong> large four and five star hotels and


good quality self-catering<br />

accommodation. Side has<br />

something for everyone: great beaches, his<strong>to</strong>ry, an abundance of<br />

shops, lively nightlife and a good choice of restaurants.<br />

Antalya<br />

Antalya, the ancient city of Attaleia, is the largest on the Mediterranean.<br />

It is typical of <strong>Turkey</strong>, a thriving modern city, with a his<strong>to</strong>ric<br />

heart in the centre of Kaleiçi, within the old city walls. This area<br />

has seen something of a renaissance in recent years, with many of<br />

the wooden Ot<strong>to</strong>man mansions being res<strong>to</strong>red and turned in<strong>to</strong><br />

boutique hotels. No cars are allowed in the narrow streets of the<br />

old <strong>to</strong>wn so it is a good place <strong>to</strong> soak up the atmosphere around<br />

the charming harbour. The symbol of Antalya is the fluted minaret<br />

or Yivli Minare built by the Seljuk sultan Alaeddin Keykubat in the<br />

3AntalyaHarbour<br />

Antalya<br />

Kemer<br />

Belek<br />

3KurşunluFalls<br />

Side<br />

TheTurkishRiviera<br />

13th century. Culture vultures will find plenty<br />

of interest in the Archaeological Museum<br />

which has artefacts from the Paleolithic Age<br />

right through <strong>to</strong> Ot<strong>to</strong>man times. Antalya has a<br />

backdrop of stunning mountain scenery, and<br />

the city is set high on cliffs, with many of its<br />

grandest hotels overlooking the sea on the<br />

outskirts of the <strong>to</strong>wn. The beach area of Lara,<br />

approximately 12 kms <strong>to</strong> the east is home <strong>to</strong> the best beach in the<br />

area, known for its golden sand, which is rapidly becoming a resort<br />

in its own right. To the west, the long pebble beach of Konyaaltı<br />

is also popular. Heading up in<strong>to</strong> the mountains, you can make the<br />

most of the beautiful scenery by visiting the spectacular Düden or<br />

Kurşunlu Waterfalls <strong>to</strong> see a completely different<br />

side <strong>to</strong> the Turkish landscape. At Saklıkent, just<br />

didyouknow?<br />

Aesop–famousforhisfablesand<br />

parables–wasborninAna<strong>to</strong>lia.<br />

Alanya<br />

factfile where<strong>to</strong>stay<br />

relaxation<br />

his<strong>to</strong>ry&culture


64|discoverTURKEY<br />

50 kms away you can even visit a ski resort,<br />

where they usually have snow on the pistes<br />

until early April.<br />

The Altlın Portakal, ‘Golden Orange’ film<br />

festival is held in the Autumn. Antalya has a<br />

large number of 5 star hotels, many of which<br />

have meetings facilities, and this, <strong>to</strong>gether with<br />

the Pyramid Congress Centre which can hold<br />

up <strong>to</strong> 3000 delegates make it a popular venue<br />

for conferences.<br />

Perge<br />

Just 18 kms from Antalya, Perge was an important<br />

city in Pamphylia and was visited by St.<br />

Paul during his missionary journeys. Today,<br />

the city gate flanked by lofty <strong>to</strong>wers, theatre<br />

and baths are of interest,<br />

Aspendos<br />

Just 50 kms east of Antalya, Aspendos was<br />

an important centre of trade during Roman<br />

times. Today, the most impressive aspect of<br />

Aspendos is her stunning theatre, which was<br />

built in approx. 162 AD. It seats 15,000 and has<br />

been beautifully preserved. Each year it hosts<br />

discoverturkeyatwww.go<strong>to</strong>turkey.co.uk<br />

Çok teşekkür ederim<br />

Thankyou verymuch<br />

the Aspendos Opera and Ballet Festival which<br />

takes place in June and July and gives you the<br />

opportunity <strong>to</strong> see performances of classics<br />

in a magnificent setting. The aqueduct, which<br />

supplied water <strong>to</strong> the city is also still relatively<br />

intact and is an impressive sight.<br />

Belek<br />

Belek is <strong>Turkey</strong>’s premier golf resort (see page<br />

40 for details), but don’t let that put you off as<br />

it also has plenty <strong>to</strong> attract the non-golfer <strong>to</strong>o.<br />

The setting is spectacular with long, golden<br />

sandy beaches, and a backdrop of mountains.<br />

Belek has won awards for environmentally<br />

friendly development and there are many rare<br />

3Towersflankingthecity<br />

gateofancientPerge<br />

species of plant and wildlife indigenous <strong>to</strong><br />

the area. Accommodation is mostly of the 5<br />

star variety with all facilities laid on including<br />

sporting and other activities, spa treatments<br />

and entertainment. Many of the hotels are also<br />

set up <strong>to</strong> cater for children with kids clubs and<br />

other facilities.<br />

Alanya<br />

Once a pirate stronghold, Alanya is now a<br />

modern resort, famed for its beautiful sandy<br />

beaches. Its harbour is dominated by the<br />

Kızılküle or Red Tower, which protected the<br />

dockyards in Seljuk times, the remains of<br />

which can still be seen in the waters. High on<br />

a promon<strong>to</strong>ry is the old fortress or kale.with<br />

its well preserved walls, <strong>to</strong>wers and Byzantine<br />

church. It takes about an hour <strong>to</strong> walk up (or<br />

you can catch a bus) but it is well worth it for<br />

the views alone. Alanya itself has no less than<br />

three blue flag beaches and has a full range<br />

of accommodation with plenty of good shops<br />

and restaurants, <strong>to</strong>gether with lively nightlife.<br />

An unusual sight is the Damlataş Cave with<br />

its strange rock formations, which is said <strong>to</strong><br />

relieve those who suffer from asthma. A boat<br />

trip will take you <strong>to</strong> the Fosforlu Mağara with<br />

its phosphorescent rocks, Kızlar Mağarası,<br />

where pirates imprisoned their female captives<br />

and the lovers’caves or Aşıklar Mağarası. Just<br />

15 kms <strong>to</strong> the east is the idyllic scenery of the<br />

Dim Çayı river.<br />

Kemer<br />

Kemer was one of <strong>Turkey</strong>’s first purposebuilt<br />

resorts, carefully planned <strong>to</strong> blend in<br />

with the surrounding scenery. At its heart is<br />

the attractive marina, a s<strong>to</strong>pping-off point<br />

for gulets on the blue cruise. Around it are<br />

sophisticated shops, bars and restaurants cater-


5TheunspoiltbeachatOlympos.<br />

4ThenaturalwonderoftheChimaeraor ‘burnings<strong>to</strong>ne’.<br />

ing for the resort’s well-heeled clientele.<br />

Kemer Beach is a clean pebble beach, but<br />

the main resort areas are on the beaches<br />

located a little further out, namely Kızıltepe,<br />

Göynük, Beldibi, Çamyuva and Tekirova.<br />

Surrounded by pine forests, they offer a<br />

range of accommodation including five<br />

star hotels, all designed <strong>to</strong> blend in <strong>to</strong> the<br />

natural environment.<br />

Phaselis<br />

The three harbours of this Lycian port city<br />

were once a major commercial centre. In<br />

the shelter of Mount Tahtalı, it is a popular<br />

s<strong>to</strong>pping off point for yachts, and its clear<br />

waters and sandy beaches are popular<br />

with sun-seekers. The remains are mostly<br />

Roman and include a theatre, baths, aqueducts,<br />

Hadrian’s Gate, an agora and an<br />

acropolis.<br />

Olympos<br />

andYanartaş<br />

(Chimaera)<br />

The ancient city, which<br />

was prominent in Lycian<br />

times, is set on the southern<br />

side of Mount Tahtalı,<br />

surrounded by oleander and laurel bushes.<br />

It is in a charming spot set on a 3 mile long<br />

beach amidst unspoilt nature, and the ruins<br />

include baths, a temple, Roman theatre and<br />

necropolis. To the north of Olympos, past<br />

the attractive beachfront hamlet of Çiralı,<br />

high on the hillside is the legendary burning<br />

flame of Yanartaş, literally ‘burning s<strong>to</strong>ne’.<br />

Caused by natural gas escaping from the<br />

rocks, it is immortalised in the legend of<br />

the Lycian hero Bellerophon, mounted<br />

on his winged horse, Pegasus, slew the<br />

fire-breathing monster, the Chimaera. In<br />

Byzantine times it was a religious site, and<br />

strangebuttrue<br />

TheTurksintroducedcoffee<strong>to</strong>Europewhentheretreating<br />

Ot<strong>to</strong>manarmyabandonedsacksofitat thegatesofVienna.<br />

TheTurkishRiviera<br />

there are remains of a temple here probably<br />

dedicated <strong>to</strong> Vulcan.<br />

Demre<br />

Also known as Kale, the ancient city of<br />

Myra, is mostly famous for its connection<br />

with St. Nicholas, who was bishop here<br />

in the 4th century. His church is the focus<br />

of the annual ceremony which takes place<br />

<strong>to</strong> commemorate him on or around his<br />

feast day of 6th December. It is well worth<br />

seeing the Roman theatre which remains<br />

here, overlooked by spectacular rock <strong>to</strong>mbs,<br />

dating from the 4th century BC.<br />

factfile where<strong>to</strong>stay<br />

relaxation<br />

his<strong>to</strong>ry&culture


66|discoverTURKEY<br />

THEKALKAN<br />

REGION<br />

factfile<br />

Forbeach-lovers: Head <strong>to</strong> the beautiful 22 km<br />

long golden, sandy beach of Patara, where you<br />

will have plenty of space <strong>to</strong> spread out.<br />

Forculturevultures: Thereissomuch<strong>to</strong>see<br />

in the area including the ancient cities of Patara,<br />

Xanthos and Myra, which are all nearby.<br />

Forthrills: Kaş has become a centre for adventure<br />

sports offering sea kayaking, mountain biking<br />

and canyoning as well as scuba diving.<br />

Forkids: On the whole, the resorts in this area do not<br />

have facilities specifically catering for children but<br />

the tiny hamlet of Çiralı is great for a relaxed beach<br />

holiday <strong>to</strong> experience the authentic Turkish lifestyle.<br />

Forbargain-hunters: Visit the Thursday market<br />

in Kalkan <strong>to</strong> practise your bartering skills.<br />

Fornigh<strong>to</strong>wls: Nightlife is low-key. There are jazz<br />

bars, other live-music bars and several popular small<br />

dancing bars with comfortable seating for non-dancers.<br />

Gettingawayfromthecrowds: Head <strong>to</strong> Olympos and<br />

make the trek up in<strong>to</strong> the hills <strong>to</strong> see the breath-taking<br />

natural wonder of the Chimaera or Yanartaş, burning s<strong>to</strong>ne.<br />

Eatingout: Kalkan is ideal for romantic candlelit<br />

dinners <strong>to</strong> sample the local fish or traditional<br />

Turkish cuisine in roof-<strong>to</strong>p restaurants offering<br />

atmospheric, moonlit dining, with stunning views.<br />

Greatdaysout: Don’t miss a boat trip <strong>to</strong> take<br />

in the haunting sunken city of Kekova and<br />

the charming castle of Simena, with time for<br />

snorkelling and swimming in the clear waters.<br />

Nearestairport: Dalaman<br />

Distance: Kalkan 143 kms; Kaş 114 kms<br />

discoverturkeyatwww.go<strong>to</strong>turkey.co.uk<br />

Sophisticated resorts providing an authentic experience, in the midst<br />

of his<strong>to</strong>ry and stunning nature<br />

Kalkan<br />

In recent years, Kalkan has become an in spot for upmarket couples<br />

seeking a taste of authentic <strong>Turkey</strong>. It is a pretty village of s<strong>to</strong>ne-built<br />

houses set on a hillside around the attractive harbour. Narrow lanes<br />

lead down <strong>to</strong> the seafront, packed with shops, sophisticated bars and<br />

restaurants, mostly serving traditional Turkish fare, with some excellent<br />

seafood and fish restaurants on the harbour-front. The roads are steep so<br />

you need <strong>to</strong> be relatively fit <strong>to</strong> get around, but the hotels and villas set<br />

higher up on the hillside, benefit from stunning views down over the<br />

pretty bay. Due <strong>to</strong> the landscape there is simply no room for large-scale<br />

development so most of the hotels are small and intimate. The resort<br />

has expanded rapidly in recent years, however, and the buildings have


copyrightedimage<br />

kindly suppliedby<br />

ExclusiveEscapes<br />

extended beyond Kalkan<br />

itself <strong>to</strong> the bays on either<br />

side, such as Kalamar bay<br />

<strong>to</strong> the west – a long walk or<br />

a short taxi ride away from the centre. Most of the hotels on the<br />

seafront in this area and the ‘beaches’ have access <strong>to</strong> the sea via<br />

platforms or ladders, straight in<strong>to</strong> deep water. Kalkan does have<br />

a small pebble <strong>to</strong>wn beach, but serious beach-lovers head out by<br />

the regular dolmuş service <strong>to</strong> stunning Kaputaş, approximately<br />

6 kms away, a fine pebble and shingle beach which has clear,<br />

impossibly turquoise water. It is reached by a long flight of steps<br />

with no facilities and no shade, so you need <strong>to</strong> come prepared.<br />

Others prefer the long stretch of sandy beach at Patara, which<br />

is reached by a regular dolmuş service. Boats leave from the<br />

harbour here and from nearby Kaş, approx. 26 kms away, for<br />

trips around the bays and <strong>to</strong> the surrounding islands. Kalkan has<br />

3ThecharmingharbourofKalkan.<br />

Patara<br />

Kalkan<br />

Kaş<br />

KekovaIsland<br />

3A typical<strong>to</strong>mbat thesite<br />

ofancientXanthos.<br />

TheKalkanRegion<br />

a unique ambience and is one of the most<br />

sophisticated of <strong>Turkey</strong>’s resorts, but is not<br />

recommended for those with difficulty in<br />

walking or for those with small children.<br />

The ancient sites of Xanthos and Le<strong>to</strong>on are within easy reach of<br />

Kalkan. For further details see page 32.<br />

didyouknow?<br />

Homer wasborninIzmironthe<br />

westcoas<strong>to</strong>f<strong>Turkey</strong>andhe<br />

depictedTroy,whichisnorthof<br />

Izmir,inhisEpictheIliad.<br />

factfile where<strong>to</strong>stay<br />

relaxation<br />

his<strong>to</strong>ry&culture


68|discoverTURKEY<br />

Kaş<br />

Kaş is a relaxed harbour <strong>to</strong>wn, which until<br />

recently was relatively un<strong>to</strong>uched by <strong>to</strong>urism.<br />

It is now becoming a firm favourite with older<br />

couples, who love its laid-back atmosphere.<br />

Recently, it has also become a magnet for<br />

those seeking a taste of adventure, as it is a<br />

big centre for scuba diving and also offers<br />

activities such as trekking, canoeing, canyoning<br />

and horse riding. The name Kaş means<br />

‘eyebrow’, describing the curved shape of the<br />

pretty harbour, with its traditional tea garden and<br />

discoverturkeyatwww.go<strong>to</strong>turkey.co.uk<br />

tiny, whitewashed mosque. Wooden Ot<strong>to</strong>man<br />

houses, their balconies bright with bougainvillea,<br />

overhang the narrow streets, home <strong>to</strong> shops,<br />

bars and restaurants. As you wander, you may<br />

come across the ancient sarcophagus, which<br />

is a remnant of the ancient city of Antiphellos,<br />

whose well-preserved theatre has also survived<br />

<strong>to</strong> the present day. Overlooked by Lycian rock<br />

<strong>to</strong>mbs, Kaş is in a picturesque spot looking out<br />

on the Greek island of Kastellorizo known as<br />

Meis in Turkish, a short boat trip away. There are<br />

a number of pebble beaches in the surrounding<br />

bays, easily reached by the boats which leave<br />

from the harbour and Kaputaş is approximately<br />

20 kms <strong>to</strong> the west. The stunning Çukurbağ<br />

peninsula, just outside the <strong>to</strong>wn, has recently<br />

become home <strong>to</strong> a number of sophisticated<br />

boutique hotels.<br />

Patara<br />

Patara has the honour of being the longest<br />

beach in <strong>Turkey</strong> – 22 kms of beautiful white<br />

sand, backed by dunes and mimosa bushes. It<br />

was once the most important harbour in Lycia,<br />

famous for its oracle of Apollo, until it silted<br />

up in the Middle Ages. It was the birthplace of<br />

St. Nicholas and it is known that St. Paul and St.<br />

Luke visited. The site is fascinating, the remains<br />

part buried in the sands, evocative and intrigu-<br />

copyrightedimagekindly suppliedbyExclusiveEscapes<br />

5thespectacular sanddunesofPatara<br />

4apartially submerged<strong>to</strong>mbin<br />

thesunkencityofKekova<br />

ing. They include an acropolis, temple, agora,<br />

theatre, baths and the magnificent triumphal<br />

arch. The beach is a nesting place for the rare<br />

caretta caretta turtles and access is not permitted<br />

after dark.<br />

Kekova<br />

Usually reached by boat from Üçağız, the area<br />

of Kekova, named after its largest island, is a<br />

group of islands and bays, home <strong>to</strong> a number<br />

of ancient Lycian settlements, some of which<br />

are now submerged in the sea. This beautiful<br />

spot is easily visited on a day’s boat trip<br />

from Kalkan or Kaş. The most atmospheric<br />

spot is the ‘sunken city’ or batık şehir, where<br />

ancient houses, stairs and pavements can be<br />

seen submerged in the clear waters. It is now<br />

forbidden <strong>to</strong> swim here. A boat trip usually<br />

takes in a visit <strong>to</strong> nearby Kaleköy or Simena<br />

Castle, a charming port overlooked by the ruins<br />

of a Crusader castle, which offers stunning<br />

views of the surrounding scenery.


TheKalkanRegion<br />

factfile where<strong>to</strong>stay<br />

relaxation<br />

his<strong>to</strong>ry&culture


70|discoverTURKEY<br />

THENORTH<br />

AEGEAN<br />

factfile<br />

Forbeach-lovers: Head out of <strong>to</strong>wn <strong>to</strong> Long Beach, a 6km<br />

stretch of sand, approx. 20 minutes away <strong>to</strong> the south by<br />

dolmuş or the sandy beach of Kuştur 5 kms <strong>to</strong> the north.<br />

Forculturevultures: Ephesus, the bestknown<br />

of <strong>Turkey</strong>’s ancient cities is right on<br />

your doorstep just 30 minutes drive away.<br />

Forthrills: Take a jeep safari <strong>to</strong> explore the stunning<br />

mountain scenery in the surrounding area.<br />

Forkids: The beaches are perfect for children<br />

and Kuşadası has two of Europe’s biggest<br />

aquaparks – Adaland and Aquafantasy, both have<br />

free shuttle services from the resort centre.<br />

Forbargain-hunters: The food market takes place on<br />

Fridays, and for clothes bargains try the Wednesday market.<br />

Fornigh<strong>to</strong>wls: For the liveliest bars head<br />

for Bar street or for something a little more<br />

sophisticated try the area of Kaleiçi.<br />

Gettingawayfromthecrowds: The stunning National<br />

Park on the Dilek Peninsula is well worth a visit as is the<br />

village of Sirince, in the eastern mountains of Selçuk, 15<br />

kms away. An old Greek village, it is famous for its local<br />

wine and olive oil. Try the traditional gözleme pancakes.<br />

Eatingout: Kuşadası has adapted so well <strong>to</strong> her foreign<br />

guests that it is as easy <strong>to</strong> find a Sunday roast, a Chinese<br />

or Mexican meal as <strong>to</strong> find traditional Turkish fare.<br />

Greatdaysout: Don’t miss Ephesus, and Kuşadası<br />

is also the nearest beach resort <strong>to</strong> the stunning ‘cot<strong>to</strong>n<br />

castle’ of Pamukkale. It is easy <strong>to</strong> arrange an excursion<br />

for the 4-hour drive inland <strong>to</strong> see this unique natural<br />

wonder, <strong>to</strong>gether with the ancient city of Hierapolis.<br />

Nearestairport: Adanan Menderes Airport, Izmir<br />

Distance: Kusadasi 80 kms<br />

discoverturkeyatwww.go<strong>to</strong>turkey.co.uk<br />

Kuşadası<br />

Kuşadası is one of <strong>Turkey</strong>’s largest and most cosmopolitan resorts<br />

and a s<strong>to</strong>pping off point for the big cruise-liners. It is a good all round<br />

resort, offering great beaches, excellent shopping and some serious<br />

nightlife. Kuşadası literally means ‘Bird Island’ and takes its name<br />

from the tiny islet known as Güvercin Adası or Pigeon Island, which<br />

is attached <strong>to</strong> the mainland by a causeway and boasts a 14th century<br />

Genoese fort. There are a number of sandy beaches in the area. Kadınlar<br />

Plajı or ‘Ladies Beach’ is central but can get crowded so it is wiser in<br />

high season <strong>to</strong> head a little further out of the centre where the beaches<br />

are just as sandy but offer more space. Kaleiçi is the old centre of the<br />

<strong>to</strong>wn and is a popular shopping and entertainment area. The Ot<strong>to</strong>man<br />

Kervansaray or traveller’s inn is now in private hands but is an impressive<br />

building and a landmark in the <strong>to</strong>wn centre. Today’s travellers can


find comfort in a full<br />

range of accommodation<br />

in all categories and<br />

of all sizes.<br />

Kuşadası’s setting also makes it a good base for those wanting<br />

<strong>to</strong> visit Ephesus which is only approximately 30 minutes’ drive<br />

away.<br />

It is also surrounded by some of <strong>Turkey</strong>’s most beautiful national<br />

park including the Kalamaki National Park, which lies on the<br />

Dilek Peninsula, approx. 30 kms <strong>to</strong> the south. Dense pine trees<br />

cover the mountains which plunge dramatically down <strong>to</strong> beaches<br />

and crystal-clear sea. Some of <strong>Turkey</strong>’s rarest wild animals can<br />

be found here including the Ana<strong>to</strong>lian cheetah and wild horses.<br />

Sundays are often busy with local visi<strong>to</strong>rs. Another stunning spot<br />

3Diningwithviews over thebay ofKuşadası<strong>to</strong>wards<br />

PigeonIslandfrom whichtheresort takesits name<br />

6TheLibrary ofCelsusatEphesus<br />

Çeşme<br />

Izmir<br />

NorthAegean<br />

in the vicinity is Lake Bafa which is approx. 80<br />

kms south east of Kuşadası.<br />

Ephesus<br />

Troy<br />

Ephesus<br />

Kuşadası<br />

Pergamum<br />

Ephesus is the most famous of <strong>Turkey</strong>’s ancient cities. It was the<br />

site of the Temple of Artemis, <strong>to</strong> whom the city was dedicated,<br />

which was one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient<br />

World. During Roman times it was the most<br />

didyouknow<br />

Thesmallpox vaccination was<br />

introduced<strong>to</strong>EnglandandEurope<br />

from<strong>Turkey</strong>byLadyMontaguin the<br />

early 19thcentury (afterTurkish<br />

physicians savedher son’slife).<br />

factfile where<strong>to</strong>stay<br />

relaxation<br />

his<strong>to</strong>ry&culture


72|discoverTURKEY<br />

important port on the Aegean and a commercial<br />

centre, which also played a significant role in<br />

the spread of Christianity. It has been well<br />

excavated and gives the visi<strong>to</strong>r a real sense<br />

of the scale of the city and of what life may<br />

have been like in Roman times. As well as the<br />

grand public buildings such as the impressive<br />

Library of Celsus, the theatre and the Temple<br />

of Hadrian, the remains include streets, private<br />

houses, public <strong>to</strong>ilets and even a brothel. Most<br />

of the remains date from the 4th century BC,<br />

although there was probably a city on this site<br />

as far back as 1000 BC.<br />

The Virgin Mary is believed <strong>to</strong> have spent her<br />

last days in Ephesus, which was one of the<br />

Seven Churches of the Apocalypse mentioned in<br />

Revelations. The other churches <strong>to</strong>o are around<br />

this area of <strong>Turkey</strong>. For further information<br />

see page 44.<br />

Nearby in Selçuk is the Basilica of St. John,<br />

dating from the 6th century and a Byzantine<br />

citadel.<br />

Pergamum<br />

Pergamum, modern-day Bergama, is another<br />

of the Seven Churches. It is one of <strong>Turkey</strong>’s<br />

most impressive sites, the ruins of the ancient<br />

discoverturkeyatwww.go<strong>to</strong>turkey.co.uk<br />

city set high on a<br />

hillside dramatically<br />

overlooking the modern<br />

<strong>to</strong>wn. It was a great<br />

centre of culture with<br />

a famous library and the renowned Asclepion,<br />

dedicated <strong>to</strong> the god of health. The theatre is<br />

well-preserved and set in<strong>to</strong> a steep hillside and<br />

the other remains include the monumental altar<br />

of Zeus, a gymnasium and the agora.<br />

İzmir<br />

Hesap lütfen<br />

CanIhavethebillplease<br />

İzmir is the third largest of <strong>Turkey</strong>’s cities and<br />

the second largest port after İstanbul. Known in<br />

ancient times as Smyrna, it has had a long and<br />

illustrious past, and <strong>to</strong>day, has a reputation as a<br />

relaxed, cosmopolitan city and cultural centre.<br />

It has no beach but it certainly merits a day-trip<br />

from any of the resorts nearby. It is good for<br />

shopping and there is plenty of cultural and<br />

his<strong>to</strong>ric interest including the superb Archaeological<br />

Museum, the Fine Arts Museum and<br />

the Ethnography Museum. Some of the best<br />

views of the city are <strong>to</strong> be enjoyed from the<br />

vantage point of the Kadifekale (translated as<br />

‘velvet castle’), the ruined castle which stands<br />

high above the city and was built during the<br />

reign of Alexander the Great. The Agora or<br />

marketplace is a remnant of the Roman city,<br />

and there are a number of significant Ot<strong>to</strong>man<br />

3ThestunningsiteofancientPergamum<br />

buildings including: the Konak Clock Tower<br />

(saat kulesi) which has become a symbol of<br />

the city; the Kızlarağası Han, a res<strong>to</strong>red travellers’<br />

inn, which is now a craft market; and the<br />

Asansör, a working eleva<strong>to</strong>r.<br />

Çeşme<br />

Çeşme is a charming, sleepy resort <strong>to</strong>wn,<br />

dominated by the 14th century castle of St.<br />

Peter. It has two main streets, where shops,<br />

restaurants and a couple<br />

of bars are situated. Most<br />

of the hotels are set on the<br />

beaches outside the centre.<br />

Ilıca is one of the most<br />

impressive, with its fine,<br />

white sand, and Altınkum<br />

(golden sand) beach<br />

is also renowned. The<br />

peninsula has excellent<br />

conditions for windsurfing<br />

and Alaçati beach is one<br />

of the best spots for this.<br />

Çeşme means ‘spring’,<br />

named after the natural<br />

springs found in the area. Ilıca is still a popular<br />

centre for thermal treatments. For further details<br />

see page 46. Ferries run between ports in Italy<br />

and Çeşme as well as between Çeşme and<br />

the Greek island of Chios. See the factfile<br />

for details.<br />

Ayvalık<br />

Ayvalık is an attractive port, surrounded by<br />

pine forests, with charming s<strong>to</strong>ne houses and<br />

cobbled streets. It is popular with local Turkish<br />

holidaymakers and a great place for those who<br />

want <strong>to</strong> escape the crowds and soak up the<br />

authentic atmosphere. There are good sandy<br />

beaches approx. 6 kms south of the <strong>to</strong>wn in<br />

the area of Sarmısaklı.<br />

Altınkum<br />

Altınkum literally means ‘golden sand’ an apt<br />

description of the beautiful beach in this relaxed<br />

resort. Popular with families it has a range<br />

of accommodation and plenty of restaurants<br />

and bars for entertainment. There are lots of<br />

shops and an attractive street market in the


4Theunforgettablewhite<br />

terraces ofPamukkale<br />

centre. It is popular with both Turkish and<br />

international holidaymakers. It is also a<br />

good base from which <strong>to</strong> visit the nearby<br />

sites of Priene, with its superb stadium,<br />

theatre and Ionic Temple of Athena; Miletus<br />

with its 15,000-seater theatre and Baths of<br />

Faustina; and Didyma. The impressive site<br />

of the temple of Apollo at Didim, ancient<br />

Didyma, is well worth a visit. It was one of<br />

the ancient world’s most sacred places, one<br />

of the fore-most oracles of the Greek world.<br />

It was originally built in the 7th century BC<br />

and then res<strong>to</strong>red by Alexander the Great.<br />

The early Christians converted it <strong>to</strong> a church.<br />

It has been well preserved and the head of<br />

Medusa is of particular interest.<br />

Foça<br />

The resort of Foça is popular with Turkish<br />

holidaymakers living in nearby İzmir. Its<br />

his<strong>to</strong>ric sites include a Genoese castle and a<br />

small ancient theatre. The resort is split in<strong>to</strong><br />

two bays with beaches in each. Yenifoça<br />

or ‘new Foça’ is just 23 kms away by boat<br />

and has even better, and more secluded<br />

beaches.<br />

Gallipoli<br />

The Gelibolu peninsula, which forms the<br />

western border of the narrow straits known<br />

as the Dardanelles, was the scene of one of<br />

the bloodiest campaigns of the First World<br />

War. In 1915 the Allied forces (British,<br />

Australian, New Zealand, French and<br />

Indian) tried <strong>to</strong> seize the straits, but were<br />

fought off by the Turkish army, inspired<br />

by the young officer, Mustafa Kemal, later<br />

<strong>to</strong> become Atatürk, who defended the area.<br />

500,000 soldiers lost their lives during the<br />

9 month battle with its bitter trench warfare.<br />

The Gelibolu (Gallipoli) National His<strong>to</strong>ric<br />

Park is dedicated <strong>to</strong> those who died and it<br />

3 amemorial<strong>to</strong> thesoldiers who<br />

lost theirlivesatGallipoli<br />

NorthAegean<br />

includes a number of cemeteries, memorials<br />

and museums. Most visi<strong>to</strong>rs stay in the<br />

attractive <strong>to</strong>wn of Çanakkale nearby.<br />

Troy<br />

For further information on the ancient site<br />

of the legendary city of Troy see page 32.<br />

Pamukkale<br />

strangebuttrue<br />

Part of<strong>Turkey</strong>’s southwestern shorewasaweddinggiftfromMarkAn<strong>to</strong>ny <strong>to</strong> Cleopatra.<br />

The stunning white terraces of Pamukkale<br />

and the neighbouring site of Hierapolis<br />

are situated inland, close <strong>to</strong> the <strong>to</strong>wn of<br />

Denizli. They can be reached from most of<br />

the coastal resorts on a one or two day trip<br />

but Kuşadası is the closest – approximately<br />

4 hours drive away. For further information<br />

on Pamukkale see page 32.<br />

factfile where<strong>to</strong>stay<br />

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74|discoverTURKEY<br />

DALYAN<br />

factfile<br />

Forbeach-lovers: The beautiful spit of sand which<br />

is the İztuzu Beach is completely undeveloped, and<br />

is reached by a pleasant boat trip from Dalyan.<br />

Forculturevultures: Visit the ruined city of ancient<br />

Caunos, with its impressive theatre and Temple of Apollo.<br />

Forthrills: Dalyan is such a sleepy <strong>to</strong>wn that you<br />

will have <strong>to</strong> head further afield for paragliding at<br />

Ölüdeniz or scuba diving in Fethiye or Marmaris.<br />

Forkids: Dalyan is perfect for a relaxed family holiday<br />

but there are no specific facilities for children. They are<br />

sure <strong>to</strong> enjoy the mud baths at nearby Ilıca and Sultaniye<br />

– a good excuse <strong>to</strong> get as muddy as possible and really<br />

wallow. They will also enjoy going on an early morning<br />

boat trip <strong>to</strong> try and spot the graceful river turtles.<br />

Forbargain-hunters: Visit the market in nearby<br />

Köyceğiz, or buy souvenirs in the small shops in<br />

Dalyan – they do a great line in all types of turtle!<br />

Fornigh<strong>to</strong>wls: the nightlife is very laid back but there<br />

are some nice bars here, which are open until late.<br />

Gettingawayfromthecrowds: Take a trip <strong>to</strong> the<br />

stunning Lake Köyceğiz, and visit the waterfalls where<br />

the locals go <strong>to</strong> cool off and have a refreshing swim.<br />

Eatingout: There are some charming restaurants on<br />

the riverfront, as well as a good selection in the <strong>to</strong>wn<br />

itself, serving mostly fish and traditional Turkish cuisine.<br />

The tastiest way <strong>to</strong> eat, though, is <strong>to</strong> s<strong>to</strong>p for a barbecue<br />

lunch on board, of freshly-caught fish or crab.<br />

Nearestairport: Dalaman<br />

Distance: Dalyan 27 kms<br />

discoverturkeyatwww.go<strong>to</strong>turkey.co.uk<br />

Dalyan is just 30 minutes from Dalaman airport, and was destined <strong>to</strong><br />

become a centre for large-scale <strong>to</strong>urism development. Plans changed,<br />

however, in the mid 80’swhen it was discovered that the beautiful<br />

spit of sandy beach is a nesting ground for the rare Caretta caretta<br />

or loggerhead turtles which lay their eggs here in the clean fine sand.<br />

Dalyan, has remained, therefore, a sleepy haven its unspoilt nature<br />

protected by strict regulations which mean that the beach is not<br />

accessible after dark.<br />

Dalyan is on a river delta, its narrow waterways, surrounded by reed<br />

beds. The small <strong>to</strong>wn is set <strong>to</strong> a backdrop of stunning mountains, the<br />

river overlooked by ancient Lycian-style <strong>to</strong>mbs carved high in<strong>to</strong> the rock<br />

face. There are some good restaurants on the riverfront and the main<br />

street is home <strong>to</strong> a selection of restaurants and shops and a few bars.<br />

The <strong>to</strong>wn itself is flat and easy <strong>to</strong> get around. Boats depart regularly<br />

from the riverfront for the short trip <strong>to</strong> İztuzu beach, approximately 40


minutes away. It is a beautiful<br />

bar of fine, golden sand<br />

gently shelving in<strong>to</strong> the sea. Since there is no development, here,<br />

however, there is little in the way of facilities so it is best <strong>to</strong> come<br />

prepared. The beach can also be reached by dolmuş.<br />

Those who stay in Dalyan have a choice of self-catering and hotel<br />

accommodation, from 4 star hotels <strong>to</strong> simple pensions. Most<br />

are built in traditional style <strong>to</strong> fit in with the natural setting, and<br />

many are set on the beautiful riverfront. Many people, however,<br />

visit Dalyan on a day-trip by boat from nearby resorts such as<br />

Marmaris and Fethiye.<br />

The ruins of the ancient city of Caunos are close by and can<br />

by reached by boat or on foot. It was originally on the sea, but<br />

its harbour gradually silted up and felt in<strong>to</strong> disuse. It has only<br />

Dalyan<br />

Dalyan<br />

3Theancient rock<strong>to</strong>mbs overlookingthereedbeds ofDalyan<br />

5TheunspoiltbeachofIztuzu<br />

3Mudbathsin thevicinity ofDalyan<br />

been partially excavated but the remains are<br />

extensive and include a theatre dating from<br />

the 2nd century BC, Roman baths, temple<br />

of Apollo and agora or marketplace.<br />

Close <strong>to</strong> Dalyan are the thermal springs and mudbaths of Ilıca and<br />

Sultaniye, which are reputed <strong>to</strong> have many health-giving powers<br />

and are a fun and relaxing way <strong>to</strong> unwind.<br />

Recently, there have been a number of developments at the nearby<br />

bay of Sarıgerme, with its beautiful sandy beach,<br />

surrounded by pine forests.<br />

didyouknow?<br />

ThefamousTrojanWars <strong>to</strong>okplace<br />

in western<strong>Turkey</strong>,aroundthesite<br />

whereawooden statueoftheTrojan<br />

Horsehasbeenerected<strong>to</strong>day.<br />

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76|discoverTURKEY<br />

ISTANBUL<br />

highlights<br />

Foropulence: Visit Topkapı Palace – there is so much <strong>to</strong><br />

see here that you need at least 1⁄2 a day. Book a <strong>to</strong>ur of<br />

the Harem when you arrive and don’t miss the stunning<br />

emeralds and other jewels. See also pages 10-15.<br />

Foratmosphere: Explore the world under the<br />

pavements, in the Yerebatan cisterns, which s<strong>to</strong>red<br />

water for the Byzantine city, with their hundreds of<br />

columns, artfully lit <strong>to</strong> a soundtrack of classical music.<br />

Forbeauty: Marvel at the stunning mosaics which still<br />

decorate the walls of Haghia Sophia (Aya Sofya).<br />

Forculture: If you only have time <strong>to</strong> visit one mosque<br />

make it the Blue Mosque – if you are in İstanbul for longer,<br />

take in the Süleymaniye <strong>to</strong>o. See also pages 10-15<br />

Forshopping: Visit the Grand Bazaar, where you<br />

will find yourself buying things you never knew<br />

you needed. Take a trip <strong>to</strong> Ortaköy <strong>to</strong> shop at the<br />

Sunday market on the shores of the Bosphorus.<br />

Forpanoramicviews: Take a boat trip on the<br />

Bosphorus for the best views of the city.<br />

discoverturkeyatwww.go<strong>to</strong>turkey.co.uk<br />

İstanbul is truly a world city, a city which everyone should visit at least<br />

once in their lifetime. It is an enchanting blend of Eastern and Western<br />

culture, a vibrant, modern city, with an unique identity, its rich past<br />

coexisting alongside its youthful exuberance. Although no longer the<br />

capital of <strong>Turkey</strong> – Atatürk created Ankara as the capital at the heart<br />

of his new Turkish Republic, as a symbolic break from the Ot<strong>to</strong>man<br />

Empire – it remains the country’s cultural and business centre.<br />

It is a city of contrasts, bustling with the cacophony of 21st century life,<br />

and yet achingly beautiful. It is set in a stunning location, surrounded<br />

by water – the narrow strait of the Bosphorus and the serene Sea of<br />

Marmara separating Europe from Asia. İstanbul has a foot in each,<br />

celebrating the best of both heritages. As Byzantium, Constantinople and<br />

finally, İstanbul, it has been the capital of three Empires, each leaving<br />

their mark in the form of stunning palaces, castles, mosques, churches


and monuments. The legacy<br />

of its chequered past can be<br />

seen in every turn of the modern city.<br />

Orientation&<strong>Where</strong> <strong>to</strong><strong>Stay</strong><br />

The layout of İstanbul can seem confusing at first. The Bosphorus<br />

or Boğaz divides the city in<strong>to</strong> the European and Asian sides, linked<br />

by two magnificent bridges, spanning the continents, the first of<br />

which was opened in 1973 <strong>to</strong> celebrate the 50th anniversary of<br />

the Republic. Most visi<strong>to</strong>rs <strong>to</strong> the city, staying for a few days, will<br />

have little reason <strong>to</strong> visit the Asian side, except for as part of a<br />

Bosphorus <strong>to</strong>ur, on a boat which zigzags from side <strong>to</strong> side, <strong>to</strong><br />

take in the best of each.<br />

3İstanbul’sfamous skylineofturretsandminarets.<br />

Istanbul<br />

5Bosphorus Bridgelinking<br />

EuropeandAsia<br />

Istanbul<br />

3DetailofamosaicfromHaghiaSophia<br />

The European side, however, is also divided<br />

in two by the Golden Horn or Haliç, which<br />

roughly divides the his<strong>to</strong>ric part of Old<br />

İstanbul, encompassing the areas of Sultanahmet<br />

and Laleli, from the modern city. It<br />

is crossed by a number of bridges, the most<br />

famous of which is the pon<strong>to</strong>on, the Galata<br />

Bridge. Most visi<strong>to</strong>rs on short city breaks stay in the old <strong>to</strong>wn as<br />

the vast majority of the sites which they will be visiting are in this<br />

area. İstanbul’s most famous sites – the Blue Mosque or Sultan<br />

Ahmet Cami, Aya Sofya (Haghia Sophia), Topkapı Sarayı (Palace)<br />

and the Grand Bazaar (Kapalı Çarşi) – are all within a 30 minute<br />

walk of each other. It is easy <strong>to</strong> get around on foot<br />

or by making use of the tram, which provides a<br />

didyouknow?<br />

FlorenceNightingalepractisedher<br />

nursingskillsinahospitalin what<br />

was thenScutariandis nowknown<br />

asÜsküdar,asuburbofIstanbul<br />

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78|discoverTURKEY<br />

regular service on the pedestrianised main street.<br />

In terms of accommodation, there are now a<br />

number of characterful boutique hotels in the<br />

area of Sultanahmet, many of which are res<strong>to</strong>red<br />

Ot<strong>to</strong>man wooden mansions. These are ideal for<br />

those who really want <strong>to</strong> savour the authentic<br />

atmosphere of the Old Town. Those on a budget,<br />

may want <strong>to</strong> consider the more modern, and<br />

competitively priced hotels of the Laleli district,<br />

although this area is much busier.<br />

Although it is convenient, the disadvantage of<br />

staying in the Old Town, is that, since it is not<br />

a residential area, you don’t really benefit from<br />

the ambience of the modern city of İstanbul,<br />

with its excellent restaurants, lively bars and<br />

cosmopolitan feel. Some of İstanbul’s finest,<br />

most luxurious hotels are located on the Bosphorus<br />

with stunning views over the straits, or in<br />

the modern business districts. There are also<br />

some his<strong>to</strong>ric establishments in the area known<br />

as Pera, which blossomed at the turn of the last<br />

century. The heart of modern İstanbul, is Taksim<br />

Square and the streets around. The advantage<br />

of staying here is that in the evenings you have<br />

a wealth of restaurants and relaxed bars within<br />

an easy walk of your hotel.<br />

<strong>Where</strong>ver you choose <strong>to</strong> stay, it doesn’t take<br />

much <strong>to</strong> make the most of the city, and even<br />

three days will give you the opportunity <strong>to</strong> see<br />

the highlights. It is such a large city, however,<br />

that even if you visit time and again, you can<br />

still discover something new each time. It is<br />

easy <strong>to</strong> get around. There are a couple of handy<br />

trams – one in the old <strong>to</strong>wn, and the other in the<br />

main shopping street in Pera, İstiklal Caddesi.<br />

Taxis are plentiful and relatively cheap and there<br />

discoverturkeyatwww.go<strong>to</strong>turkey.co.uk<br />

Turkish Memnun oldum<br />

English Pleased<strong>to</strong> meet you<br />

are also dolmuş and bus services for those who<br />

really want <strong>to</strong> explore. Most <strong>to</strong>ur opera<strong>to</strong>rs can<br />

arrange <strong>to</strong>urs <strong>to</strong> see the main sights.<br />

Sightseeing<br />

There is so much <strong>to</strong> see in İstanbul that it is<br />

impossible <strong>to</strong> cover everything. See the highlights<br />

section for those which you really should<br />

not miss, and go armed with a good guidebook<br />

<strong>to</strong> give you the lowdown and make sure that<br />

you get the most from your stay. See also page<br />

30 for more information on the his<strong>to</strong>ric areas<br />

of the city.<br />

The Bosphorus<br />

Some of İstanbul’s finest vistas are <strong>to</strong> be seen<br />

from the Bosphorus. If you have time it is well<br />

worth spending at least half a day viewing the<br />

sights and savouring the atmosphere. You can<br />

take a guided <strong>to</strong>ur on a small boat, or Turkish<br />

3Kızkulesi,knownasLeander’sTower or<br />

theMaiden’sToweris nowarestaurant<br />

4TheBlueMosque<br />

Maritime Lines (TDİ) runs a good value public<br />

ferry service which leaves two or three times<br />

a day and does the full round trip as far as<br />

Anadolu Kavağı, the nearest village <strong>to</strong> the Black<br />

Sea on the Asian side, and back <strong>to</strong> Eminönü. It<br />

is a charming place, known for its fish restaurants,<br />

and the walk up <strong>to</strong> the ruined fortress<br />

overlooking the village, is well worth it for the<br />

stunning views. As you leave from Eminönü<br />

you can benefit from some beautiful views<br />

back <strong>to</strong>wards the old <strong>to</strong>wn with its evocative<br />

skyline of turreted roofs and minarets. As you<br />

head <strong>to</strong>wards the Black Sea you will pass the<br />

Dolmabahçe Palace, Beylerbeyi Palace and<br />

the 15th century fortresses built by Mehmet II,<br />

Rumeli Hisarı and Anadolu Hisarı. Also look<br />

out for the stunning wooden Ot<strong>to</strong>man mansions,<br />

many of which have been renovated and form<br />

some of the city’s most desirable residences.<br />

Even if you don’t have time for a Bosphorus<br />

trip just take one of the distinctive city ferries<br />

for a quick trip from Eminönü <strong>to</strong> the Asian<br />

shores and back – <strong>to</strong> Üsküdar for example, just<br />

<strong>to</strong> admire the views of the old <strong>to</strong>wn.<br />

ThePrincesIslands<br />

Those who are staying for a little longer in<br />

İstanbul, should really set aside a day <strong>to</strong> visit<br />

these charming islands in the Sea of Marmara,<br />

just off the coast of İstanbul. The picturesque<br />

scenery of wooded hills, charming beaches and<br />

authentic Ot<strong>to</strong>man mansions, combined with<br />

the tranquil atmosphere, make for a pleasant<br />

contrast <strong>to</strong> the city itself. Easily reached by<br />

ferry or hydrofoil, the ambience of the islands<br />

seems worlds away. Büyük Ada, or ‘Big’island<br />

is the most popular with visi<strong>to</strong>rs. No cars are<br />

allowed but you can take a trip in a horse and<br />

carriage <strong>to</strong> visit the Monastery of St. George.<br />

Beaches<br />

İstanbul itself does not have beaches, although<br />

some people do swim from the Princes Islands.<br />

If you are staying for longer and want a real<br />

resort experience, however, it is better <strong>to</strong><br />

take a bus <strong>to</strong> Şile on the Black Sea Coast and<br />

spend a couple of days in this delightful resort<br />

with its vast golden sandy beach and relaxed<br />

atmosphere.


Istanbul<br />

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Shopping<br />

İstanbul is a great place <strong>to</strong> shop. Whatever you<br />

want <strong>to</strong> buy, you can find the whole range – from<br />

souvenirs in the Grand Bazaar <strong>to</strong> designer labels<br />

in exclusive malls. The same rules apply as in the<br />

rest of <strong>Turkey</strong> ie fixed prices in ‘normal’shops<br />

and bartering in and around the bazaars.<br />

Shopping in the Grand Bazaar, Kapalı Çarşi<br />

is an unique experience. Although some find<br />

the atmosphere overwhelming, if you get in<strong>to</strong><br />

the spirit of it, it is fun. The salesmen’s banter<br />

is lighthearted and they are experts at guessing<br />

nationalities from a distance and choosing their<br />

language accordingly. Some of the lines are sure<br />

<strong>to</strong> bring a smile <strong>to</strong> your face even if you are not<br />

interested in buying. Feel free <strong>to</strong> browse – the<br />

shops selling similar wares tend <strong>to</strong> be grouped<br />

<strong>to</strong>gether, which makes it easier <strong>to</strong> see what’s<br />

on offer before committing yourself. It is usual<br />

<strong>to</strong> be offered a glass of apple tea, elma çayı,<strong>to</strong><br />

ease the bargaining process. The best advice is<br />

simply <strong>to</strong> decide how much you want <strong>to</strong> pay for<br />

something, start the haggling a bit lower and<br />

then move up <strong>to</strong> your original price. You will<br />

soon get an idea of prices if you ask around.<br />

Bir bira lütfen<br />

A beer please<br />

discoverturkeyatwww.go<strong>to</strong>turkey.co.uk<br />

The Bazaar has thousands of shops, <strong>to</strong>gether<br />

with cafes, banks, a post office, police station<br />

and even a mosque – in fact a self-contained<br />

community. They sell everything here from<br />

cheap textiles <strong>to</strong> fine gold jewellery. Leather<br />

goods are excellent value as are ceramics, silver<br />

and, of course, carpets. It is worth a wander<br />

around the İç Bedesten, the oldest part of the<br />

Bazaar at its very centre, where they sell an<br />

eclectic range of antiques and bricabrac.<br />

The Spice Bazaar, known in Turkish as the<br />

Mısır Çarşi or ‘Egyptian Bazaar’ is also well<br />

worth visiting for dried fruit and nuts, spices,<br />

including saffron, Turkish delight and cot<strong>to</strong>n<br />

goods. You can even find stalls where they will<br />

cus<strong>to</strong>m-make a perfume for you. If you have<br />

time, the walk between the Spice Bazaar and<br />

the Grand Bazaar is interesting. To keep your<br />

bearings, just head uphill through the maze of<br />

streets where street vendors sell their wares at<br />

rock bot<strong>to</strong>m prices.<br />

Those who are more interested in looking<br />

at the other end of the scale, should head <strong>to</strong><br />

the area of Nişantaşı for designer shops, the<br />

modern mall of Akmerkez or İstiklal Caddesi.<br />

If you are in İstanbul over the weekend you<br />

should take a trip <strong>to</strong> the area of Ortaköy, just<br />

under the first Bosphorus Bridge <strong>to</strong> visit the<br />

atmospheric Sunday market which takes place<br />

on the seafront.<br />

Eating outandEntertainment<br />

Nightlife in İstanbul is an unique mix – you can<br />

find the latest clubs, which are some of the best<br />

in Europe or a café with cushions on the floor,<br />

where you can smoke a hookah pipe or nargile.<br />

<strong>Where</strong>ver you choose <strong>to</strong> eat, whether you want<br />

a quick snack in the midst of sightseeing or a<br />

romantic dinner for two you are likely <strong>to</strong> find<br />

delicious food made from fresh ingredients, and<br />

can expect good value for money. If you want<br />

traditional street entertainers and musicians<br />

head <strong>to</strong> the area of Kumkapı near the Sea of<br />

Marmara, in the old <strong>to</strong>wn, famous for its fish,<br />

or the Flower Passage Çiçek Pasaji off İstiklal<br />

Caddesi. You can find excellent restaurants<br />

with views and many in his<strong>to</strong>ric buildings,<br />

as well as some very fashionable restaurants<br />

serving international cuisine. İstanbul is famous<br />

for its fish and seafood so you should try <strong>to</strong><br />

eat fish at least once during your stay. There<br />

are some excellent fish restaurants along the<br />

Bosphorus.<br />

For an idea of where <strong>to</strong> go and what <strong>to</strong> do<br />

there are two English language publications,<br />

Time Out Istanbul, (www.timeout.com/travel/<br />

istanbul) and The Guide Istanbul (www.theguideturkey.com/istanbul/)<br />

which are available in<br />

hotels and shops locally.


3(<strong>to</strong>pleft) shoppingin theGrandBazaar<br />

3(left)asea-frontbarinOrtaköy<br />

5(main)YerebatanSarniç,the<br />

cisterns oftheByzantinecity<br />

Istanbul<br />

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82|discoverTURKEY<br />

CAPPADOCIA<br />

highlights<br />

Forbeauty: Make sure you visit some of the rock<br />

churches with their stunning frescoes. Those in the<br />

Göreme Open Air Museum are particularly impressive.<br />

Foratmosphere: Visit the most impressive<br />

of the underground cities at Derinkuyu.<br />

Togetawayfromthecrowds: Enjoy the fascinating<br />

sights of the relatively undiscovered Soğanlı Valley.<br />

Forhis<strong>to</strong>ry: Visit Hattuşaş – the site of the capital<br />

of the Hittite Empire is one of the most important in<br />

Ana<strong>to</strong>lia. The temples and carvings are extremely<br />

impressive. For further information see page 30.<br />

Forromance: Take a balloon trip <strong>to</strong> watch the sun rise over<br />

the eerie landscapes of fairy chimneys and other-worldly<br />

rock formations and really appreciate the scale of the site.<br />

Forshopping: Buy some of the local<br />

distinctive red clay pottery from Avanos.<br />

Forlocalflavour: Sample the local wine,<br />

made from the grapes which have been grown<br />

in the fertile volcanic soil for centuries.<br />

Fortrekking: Allow a full day <strong>to</strong> trek through<br />

the spectacular unspoilt scenery of the Ihlara<br />

Valley following the course of the Melendiz<br />

Stream through this beautiful gorge.<br />

discoverturkeyatwww.go<strong>to</strong>turkey.co.uk<br />

The region known as Cappadocia includes the centres of Ürgüp, Göreme,<br />

Avanos, Üçhisar, Derinkuyu, Kaymaklı and Ihlara. It is a stunning area of<br />

other-worldly rock formations, subterranean churches and underground<br />

dwellings, the scale of which is over-whelming. For background on<br />

the area see page 30 The area is also famous for its carpet-weaving,<br />

wine and the distinctive red pottery of the Avanos area.<br />

Cappadocia was a refuge for the early Christians, who escaped persecution<br />

by living and worshipping underground. There are an estimated<br />

3000 rock churches in this region, not all of which are open <strong>to</strong> the<br />

public, the existence of which was discovered by chance in 1907 by<br />

a French Jesuit scholar, who was travelling through the area.<br />

Some of the most impressive of the churches are located in the Göreme<br />

Open AirMuseum, which, for the most part, date from the 9th-11th<br />

centuries and have stunning wall paintings. You shouldn’t miss the


Karanlık ‘Dark’Church, the<br />

Elmalı ‘Apple’Church; the<br />

Yılanlı ‘Snake ‘Church with<br />

its paintings of St. George<br />

killing the dragon and the<br />

Tokalı ‘Buckle’ Church.<br />

The Kılıçlar Vadisi also<br />

forms part of this vast site, which takes its name ‘Valley of the<br />

Swords’ from its pointed rock formations.<br />

The village of Göreme itself is at the heart of the area’s <strong>to</strong>urist<br />

industry, and many of its villagers still live in cave dwellings,<br />

some of which have been converted in<strong>to</strong> pensions. Surrounding<br />

the area are the amazing rock formations known evocatively as<br />

Peri Bacaları or ‘Fairy Chimneys’.<br />

3TheareaaroundNevşehir ischaracterised<br />

by its strange rock formations.<br />

Cappadocia<br />

Cappadocia<br />

For panoramic views over the scenery of the Göreme Valley,<br />

visit the citadel of Üçhisar, the huge rock <strong>to</strong>wer, which is the<br />

highest point in the area. Üçhisar and Ürgüp are two of the<br />

most popular places <strong>to</strong> stay in the area, where in recent years, a<br />

number of chic boutique hotels have opened in the old buildings<br />

and rock dwellings.<br />

Located <strong>to</strong> the west of Niğde, is the stunning IhlaraVadisi, a<br />

gorge which is 10 kms long and some 80 metres wide. Popular<br />

for trekking, about 12 of its 60 churches are open <strong>to</strong> the public<br />

including the impressive Eğritas Church.<br />

There are hundreds of undergroundcities<br />

in the regions. Two of the most impressive are<br />

Kaymaklı, which has 8 levels, and Derinkuyu,<br />

which reaches down <strong>to</strong> 55 metres. They were<br />

used by the Christians fleeing persecution in<br />

the 7th century, who created a self-sufficient<br />

environment underground including bedrooms,<br />

kitchens and s<strong>to</strong>rage rooms.<br />

To get away from the crowds visit the picturesque<br />

Soğanlı,Valley, with its many houses,<br />

<strong>to</strong>mbs and churches, displaying excellent<br />

examples of Byzantine painting. More of the<br />

intriguing rock formations can be seen in the<br />

DevrentValley and the Çatalkaya area.<br />

3Thebest way <strong>to</strong> view the landscape<br />

is fromahotairballoon.<br />

didyouknow?<br />

The ChristianNicean Creedwas<br />

formulatedat theFirstEcumenical<br />

Council which was heldinIznik (Nicea).<br />

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84|discoverTURKEY<br />

THEBLACK<br />

SEAREGION<br />

highlights<br />

Forarchitecture: Visit Safranbolu <strong>to</strong> see the beautifully<br />

preserved wooden Ot<strong>to</strong>man mansions, and public buildings,<br />

which are a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and were the<br />

blueprint for the architecture which spread throughout the<br />

Ot<strong>to</strong>man Empire. See page 32 for more information.<br />

Fordramaticbeauty: Take a trip <strong>to</strong> Sümela<br />

Monastery, the stunning 14th century monastery,<br />

which perches dramatically on a sheer cliff face<br />

and is one of <strong>Turkey</strong>’s most impressive sights.<br />

Forthrills: Enjoy white-water rafting on the rapids of the<br />

fast-flowing Çoruh River. See page 48 for more information.<br />

Foranactiveholiday: <strong>Stay</strong> in Kartalkaya, one of <strong>Turkey</strong>’s<br />

premier ski resorts. See page 42 for more information.<br />

Fornaturalbeauty: Enjoy the stunning scenery<br />

of the mountain plateaux of Ayder – a great<br />

spot for trekking and enjoying nature.<br />

Forlocalflavour: The speciality of the region is hamsi<br />

(anchovy) and the locals cook it in over forty different<br />

ways, including with rice and in börek (with filo pastry)<br />

and they even use it <strong>to</strong> make a traditional dessert.<br />

discoverturkeyatwww.go<strong>to</strong>turkey.co.uk<br />

The Black Sea coast is the greenest and wettest of <strong>Turkey</strong>’s regions.<br />

Lush meadows lie on high mountain plateaux and dramatic forested<br />

peaks fall away <strong>to</strong> the sea. It is at the heart of <strong>Turkey</strong>’s agriculture,<br />

with tea plantations, abundant crops of fruit and nuts and even <strong>to</strong>bacco<br />

growing here. Fishing is also important <strong>to</strong> the region, and the anchovy<br />

forms an important part of its unique cuisine. This is a vast region<br />

with much <strong>to</strong> explore both on the coast and inland. In addition <strong>to</strong> its<br />

unique his<strong>to</strong>ry, its unspoilt nature and mountainous terrain have made<br />

it popular for trekking and it also attracts those who want <strong>to</strong> discover<br />

a more traditional way of life.<br />

Amasra is one of the highlights of the western Black Sea coast. It is a<br />

sleepy, picturesque <strong>to</strong>wn , its charming harbour retaining the remnants<br />

of its past glory – the ruins of a Roman bridge, and the remains of two<br />

4th century fortresses. A stay here can easily be combined with a visit <strong>to</strong><br />

Safranbolu, one of the highlights of the area (see page 32) Continuing


along the coast <strong>to</strong> the east,<br />

it is wise <strong>to</strong> make a s<strong>to</strong>p in<br />

Kastamonu <strong>to</strong> visit its Seljuk and Ot<strong>to</strong>man monuments before<br />

heading out <strong>to</strong> the spectacular IlgazNationalPark, where you<br />

can see bears, foxes and deer. Also in the area is one of the largest<br />

caves in <strong>Turkey</strong> the IlgariniCave, where you can descend some<br />

250 metres.<br />

Trabzon, once the medieval Empire of Trebizond, is the best<br />

base for a <strong>to</strong>ur of the eastern Black Sea coast. It is a modern<br />

cosmopolitan city, the centre of trade with the ex Soviet states.<br />

One of its highlights is the Church of the Divine Wisdom, Aya<br />

Sofya, now a museum, which was built between 1238 and 1263.<br />

Its walls display brightly coloured frescoes depicting themes<br />

from the Bible. Get away from the hustle and bustle with a visit<br />

<strong>to</strong> Atatürk’s villa, set in beautiful gardens above the <strong>to</strong>wn.<br />

3ThestunningSümelaMonasterynearTrabzon<br />

3ThetraditionalOt<strong>to</strong>man<br />

mansions ofSafranbolu<br />

TheBlackSeaRegion<br />

Trabzon<br />

Probably the major attraction of the region,<br />

situated just 46 kms south of Trabzon is<br />

the 14th century Sümela Monastery. It<br />

perches dramatically on a sheer rock face,<br />

270 metres above a deep gorge. Its walls<br />

are painted with brilliant frescoes.<br />

To the south east of Trabzon is the beautiful<br />

alpine lake of Uzungöl, ‘Long Lake’,<br />

surrounded by lush meadows and stunning<br />

mountain scenery, where you can sample<br />

the delicious local trout.<br />

Those who want <strong>to</strong> experience the beautiful nature of this region<br />

at its best should head for the AyderPlateau and the Kaçkar<br />

Mountains <strong>to</strong> the east. The rushing rivers, the Fırtına and the Çoruh<br />

are ideal for canoeing and rafting, and the mountains themselves<br />

are popular with climbers and trekkers.<br />

didyouknow?<br />

Theword‘yoghurt’comesfrom<br />

Turkish,whichisappropriatesince<br />

theTurkseatit witheverything.<br />

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86|discoverTURKEY<br />

EASTERN<br />

ANATOLIA<br />

highlights<br />

Foratmosphere: Watch the sun rise or set over<br />

the iconic disembodied s<strong>to</strong>ne heads and temple<br />

terraces erected by King Antiochus I on Nemrut<br />

Dağı. See page 32 for more information.<br />

Togetawayfromthecrowds: Visit İshak Paşa Sarayı, the<br />

magnificent Ot<strong>to</strong>man Palace in Doğubeyazit, in a dramatic,<br />

isolated setting. See page 15 for more information.<br />

Forculture: Visit the Great Mosque and Hospital<br />

of Divriği and marvel at its vivid, intricate<br />

carving. See page 30 for more information.<br />

Forstunningviews: Mount Ararat known locally as Ağrı<br />

Dağı is <strong>Turkey</strong>’s highest peak, which rises dramatically<br />

from the plains, and is said <strong>to</strong> have been the resting place<br />

for Noah’s Ark. See page 38 for more information.<br />

Foraspiritualexperience: Visit Halil Rahman<br />

Mosque in Şanlı Urfa with its pool of sacred carp.<br />

Fornaturalbeauty: Visit Lake Van<br />

and enjoy the stunning scenery.<br />

Foranactiveholiday: <strong>Stay</strong> in Palandöken, one of <strong>Turkey</strong>’s<br />

premier ski resorts, situated just 30 minutes from the ancient<br />

<strong>to</strong>wn of Erzurum. See page 42 for more information.<br />

discoverturkeyatwww.go<strong>to</strong>turkey.co.uk<br />

ŞanlıUrfa was known by the Ot<strong>to</strong>mans as Urfa, and was awarded its<br />

prefix, ‘glorious’ for its role in resisting the French in the 1920’s. It is<br />

one of the most ancient areas of settlement, and is believed by some<br />

<strong>to</strong> be the ancient city of Ur. Today, it proudly displays the remnants of<br />

the many civilisations which have made it their home. One of its most<br />

impressive sights is the Halil Rahman Mosque with its sacred pools<br />

of carp. You can also see the cave where Abraham is believed <strong>to</strong> have<br />

been born. Both lie at the foot of a hill crowned by an ancient citadel.<br />

Just 48 kms <strong>to</strong> the south is the ancient city of Harran,mentioned in<br />

the Bible, with its beehive shaped dwellings, which were probably<br />

designed in the 3rd BC. It is believed <strong>to</strong> be the oldest settlement, which<br />

has been continuously occupied, in the world.<br />

Diyarbakır, on the banks of the Tigris, is renowned for its black basalt<br />

walls, decorated with inscriptions and bas reliefs, which surround the


old city and have 16 <strong>to</strong>wers<br />

and 5 gates. Diyarbakır’s<br />

Ulu Cami or ‘Great Mosque’<br />

is one of the holiest sites in<br />

the Islamic world.<br />

Lake Van is <strong>Turkey</strong>’s largest lake, and is the biggest sodium carbonate<br />

lake in the world. It is also one of the world’s highest, at 1,650<br />

metres above sea level. The water is so alkaline that the villagers<br />

can wash their clothes in it without using soap. It is also very<br />

salty. The scenery here is stunning – surrounded by snow-capped<br />

peaks, the highest of which, Süphan Dağı is over 4000 metres.<br />

There are four islands in the lake, the largest of which is Akdamar<br />

Island, which can be reached by boat. It is home <strong>to</strong> the church of<br />

the Holy Cross, built by the 10th century Armenian King, Gagik,<br />

3TheSacredLakeatHalilRahmanMosque,ŞanlıUrfa<br />

5DwellingsinHarran<br />

3CarvingonGreat<br />

MosqueofDivriği<br />

Eastern<strong>Turkey</strong><br />

one of the biggest attractions<br />

in the area.<br />

Erzurumwas located on one<br />

of the main caravan routes<br />

between Europe and India, and<br />

was, therefore, fought over by<br />

many different civilisations.<br />

Most that remains of interest<br />

<strong>to</strong>day is from the Seljuk era<br />

including the religious seminaries,<br />

the Çifte Minareli Medrese<br />

with its twin minarets, and the<br />

Yakut Medrese. Also impressive is the Byzantine citadel, from<br />

which there are excellent views over the city.<br />

43 kms from Kars is the ruined city of Ani. In order <strong>to</strong> visit it<br />

you need <strong>to</strong> obtain permission from the <strong>to</strong>urist office in Kars,<br />

Known <strong>to</strong> the Turks as Ocaklı, it was founded by the Armenians<br />

in the 4th century BC, and reached the height of its prosperity<br />

under King Gagik I. Its city walls, Medieval churches and<br />

grand cathedral are magnificent.<br />

factfile where<strong>to</strong>stay<br />

relaxation<br />

his<strong>to</strong>ry&culture


Turkish CultureandTourismOffice<br />

t: 020 7629 7771<br />

e: info@go<strong>to</strong>turkey.co.uk<br />

www.go<strong>to</strong>turkey.co.uk<br />

opening hours:9.30-5.30Monday <strong>to</strong>Friday

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