Where to Stay - Turkey

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regular service on the pedestrianised main street.
In terms of accommodation, there are now a
number of characterful boutique hotels in the
area of Sultanahmet, many of which are restored
Ottoman wooden mansions. These are ideal for
those who really want to savour the authentic
atmosphere of the Old Town. Those on a budget,
may want to consider the more modern, and
competitively priced hotels of the Laleli district,
although this area is much busier.
Although it is convenient, the disadvantage of
staying in the Old Town, is that, since it is not
a residential area, you don’t really benefit from
the ambience of the modern city of İstanbul,
with its excellent restaurants, lively bars and
cosmopolitan feel. Some of İstanbul’s finest,
most luxurious hotels are located on the Bosphorus
with stunning views over the straits, or in
the modern business districts. There are also
some historic establishments in the area known
as Pera, which blossomed at the turn of the last
century. The heart of modern İstanbul, is Taksim
Square and the streets around. The advantage
of staying here is that in the evenings you have
a wealth of restaurants and relaxed bars within
an easy walk of your hotel.
Wherever you choose to stay, it doesn’t take
much to make the most of the city, and even
three days will give you the opportunity to see
the highlights. It is such a large city, however,
that even if you visit time and again, you can
still discover something new each time. It is
easy to get around. There are a couple of handy
trams – one in the old town, and the other in the
main shopping street in Pera, İstiklal Caddesi.
Taxis are plentiful and relatively cheap and there
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are also dolmuş and bus services for those who
really want to explore. Most tour operators can
arrange tours to see the main sights.
Sightseeing
There is so much to see in İstanbul that it is
impossible to cover everything. See the highlights
section for those which you really should
not miss, and go armed with a good guidebook
to give you the lowdown and make sure that
you get the most from your stay. See also page
30 for more information on the historic areas
of the city.
The Bosphorus
Some of İstanbul’s finest vistas are to be seen
from the Bosphorus. If you have time it is well
worth spending at least half a day viewing the
sights and savouring the atmosphere. You can
take a guided tour on a small boat, or Turkish
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Maritime Lines (TDİ) runs a good value public
ferry service which leaves two or three times
a day and does the full round trip as far as
Anadolu Kavağı, the nearest village to the Black
Sea on the Asian side, and back to Eminönü. It
is a charming place, known for its fish restaurants,
and the walk up to the ruined fortress
overlooking the village, is well worth it for the
stunning views. As you leave from Eminönü
you can benefit from some beautiful views
back towards the old town with its evocative
skyline of turreted roofs and minarets. As you
head towards the Black Sea you will pass the
Dolmabahçe Palace, Beylerbeyi Palace and
the 15th century fortresses built by Mehmet II,
Rumeli Hisarı and Anadolu Hisarı. Also look
out for the stunning wooden Ottoman mansions,
many of which have been renovated and form
some of the city’s most desirable residences.
Even if you don’t have time for a Bosphorus
trip just take one of the distinctive city ferries
for a quick trip from Eminönü to the Asian
shores and back – to Üsküdar for example, just
to admire the views of the old town.
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Those who are staying for a little longer in
İstanbul, should really set aside a day to visit
these charming islands in the Sea of Marmara,
just off the coast of İstanbul. The picturesque
scenery of wooded hills, charming beaches and
authentic Ottoman mansions, combined with
the tranquil atmosphere, make for a pleasant
contrast to the city itself. Easily reached by
ferry or hydrofoil, the ambience of the islands
seems worlds away. Büyük Ada, or ‘Big’island
is the most popular with visitors. No cars are
allowed but you can take a trip in a horse and
carriage to visit the Monastery of St. George.
Beaches
İstanbul itself does not have beaches, although
some people do swim from the Princes Islands.
If you are staying for longer and want a real
resort experience, however, it is better to
take a bus to Şile on the Black Sea Coast and
spend a couple of days in this delightful resort
with its vast golden sandy beach and relaxed
atmosphere.