Where to Stay - Turkey
Where to Stay - Turkey
Where to Stay - Turkey
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DISCOVERTURKEY<br />
where <strong>to</strong> stay
50|discoverTURKEY<br />
THELORYMA<br />
PENINSULA<br />
factfile<br />
Forbeach-lovers: Içmeler boasts the best beach<br />
in the area – a sweeping bay of coarse golden<br />
sand with a variety of watersports on offer<br />
Forculturevultures: Marmaris castle has been<br />
turned in<strong>to</strong> a museum displaying local artefacts.<br />
A little further afield, the ruined city of Knidos,<br />
lies at the end of the Datça peninsula.<br />
Forthrills: Marmaris is a big scuba diving centre<br />
for those who want <strong>to</strong> explore life under the sea.<br />
Forkids: Içmeler is ideal for a family beach holiday.<br />
There are aquaparks in both Marmaris and Içmeler.<br />
Forbargain-hunters: The narrow streets of Marmaris’<br />
old <strong>to</strong>wn and the bazaar are crammed full of stalls<br />
selling everything from T-shirts <strong>to</strong> pottery.<br />
Fornigh<strong>to</strong>wls: The establishments on Marmaris’<br />
lively bar street might not look like much from the<br />
outside but many of them open out in<strong>to</strong> huge courtyards<br />
where dancing continues till the early hours<br />
Gettingawayfromthecrowds: Turunç is a charming, laidback<br />
resort easily visited by boat from Marmaris or Içmeler.<br />
Eatingout: Marmaris has adapted so well <strong>to</strong> her foreign<br />
guests that it is as easy <strong>to</strong> find a Sunday roast, a Chinese<br />
or Indian meal as <strong>to</strong> find traditional Turkish fare.<br />
Greatdaysout: Marmaris harbour is the starting point<br />
for gulets embarking on the famous Blue Cruise. Take<br />
a day trip <strong>to</strong> visit Cleopatra’s Island – it is said that the<br />
sand was imported from Africa by Martk An<strong>to</strong>ny for<br />
Cleopatra. Alternatively, for a change of atmosphere<br />
catch the hydrofoil over <strong>to</strong> the Greek island of Rhodes.<br />
Nearestairport: Dalaman<br />
Distance: Marmaris 115kms; Içmeler 125kms<br />
discoverturkeyatwww.go<strong>to</strong>turkey.co.uk<br />
Marmaris<br />
Marmaris is one of <strong>Turkey</strong>’s most popular resorts, which attracts lots<br />
of British holidaymakers, many of whom return year after year. It is a<br />
favourite with families and young couples alike. Due <strong>to</strong> its popularity,<br />
it has grown enormously over the years, hotels rapidly filling the space<br />
between the green hills and the azure seas. It is in a stunning setting,<br />
its geography remarkably similar <strong>to</strong> that of the fjords, with pine-clad<br />
hills dropping steeply <strong>to</strong> the sea, jagged inlets and tiny rocky islets<br />
off the coast.<br />
There is a wide choice of accommodation, from five star luxury <strong>to</strong><br />
self-catering apartments, but the vast majority is of three star standard.<br />
What the buildings lack in character they make up for in offering value<br />
for money. Most of the accommodation is built on either side of the<br />
main seafront road, some is on the seafront itself, but many of the newer
imagecourtesy ofAna<strong>to</strong>lianSky<br />
hotels are on the hillside<br />
in areas such as Armutalan.<br />
The beach can get busy in high season, but many people prefer<br />
<strong>to</strong> stay by the hotel pool. Lined with palms, the seafront has a<br />
typical Mediterranean feel and is a great place for an evening<br />
promenade. Shops, bars and restaurants line the streets, vying<br />
with each other <strong>to</strong> secure your cus<strong>to</strong>m for dinner – each offering<br />
something more attractive than the last. There is no hassle though<br />
– the local authorities are strict about <strong>to</strong>uts operating in the street,<br />
which makes for a more relaxed atmosphere.<br />
By day, life revolves around the narrow strip of sandy beach which<br />
runs the length of the resort. Each morning boats leave from the<br />
old harbour for day trips <strong>to</strong> visit the islands and bays around the<br />
coast. The area around the harbour offers a taste of the character<br />
of the old <strong>to</strong>wn, overlooked by the ancient castle, which is now a<br />
3Marmarismarina<br />
Marmaris<br />
3Içmelerbay<br />
Içmeler<br />
TheLorymaPeninsula<br />
Turunç<br />
museum. The Netsel marina is reached by<br />
a small footbridge, and is one of the largest<br />
and most modern in <strong>Turkey</strong>, the hangout of<br />
the jetset, who moor their luxury yachts here.<br />
The small shopping centre houses upmarket<br />
boutiques and intimate restaurants. The real<br />
bargains are <strong>to</strong> be found in the bazaar area,<br />
with hundreds of small shops offering the<br />
usual Turkish wares – clothing, leather, jewellery and handicrafts.<br />
There is a wide variety of goods on offer, and it definitely pays <strong>to</strong><br />
look around and hone your bartering skills <strong>to</strong> get the best prices.<br />
Marmaris really comes <strong>to</strong> life though as the sun sets. The shops in<br />
the narrow streets stay open until late and the bars<br />
and clubs are open until the early hours of the<br />
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Theoldestknownhumansettlement<br />
isinCatalhöyük,incentralAna<strong>to</strong>lia,<br />
<strong>Turkey</strong> whichdatesback<strong>to</strong>6,500 BC.<br />
factfile where<strong>to</strong>stay<br />
relaxation<br />
his<strong>to</strong>ry&culture
52|discoverTURKEY<br />
morning. It is very easy <strong>to</strong> get around, the main<br />
resort area is fairly flat so shouldn’t pose <strong>to</strong>o<br />
many problems for those pushing pushchairs or<br />
wheelchairs. There are shuttle services operating<br />
in high season between Marmaris and İçmeler, as<br />
well as the ubiqui<strong>to</strong>us dolmuşes which run from<br />
all areas of both resorts and on <strong>to</strong> Turunç. There<br />
are also boat services between the main resorts<br />
and even late at night it is easy <strong>to</strong> find taxis.<br />
imagecourtesy ofAna<strong>to</strong>lianSky<br />
İçmeler<br />
İçmeler is a popular resort with families, and<br />
it is easy <strong>to</strong> see why. It is much greener than<br />
neighbouring Marmaris, with wide streets lined<br />
with trees and a relaxed ambience. It nestles in<br />
the shelter of dramatic pine-clad mountains with<br />
Nekadar?<br />
Howmuch?<br />
discoverturkeyatwww.go<strong>to</strong>turkey.co.uk<br />
a wide sweeping bay of coarse sand, where all<br />
kinds of watersports are available. The waters<br />
are shallow and calm making it relatively safe<br />
for children. The views from the beach are<br />
stunning, as it appears <strong>to</strong> be almost surrounded<br />
by mountains, dropping steeply in<strong>to</strong> the sea.<br />
There is an abundance of restaurants, serving a<br />
full range of Turkish and international cuisine,<br />
plenty of lively bars and lots of shops. For those<br />
who want serious nightlife, Marmaris is just a<br />
short dolmuş or taxi ride away. There is a full<br />
range of hotel and self-catering accommodation<br />
here, including luxurious 4 and 5 star hotels<br />
set right on or overlooking the seafront. Boats<br />
head out from the bay for day-trips around<br />
the stunning coastline, taking in the tiny islets<br />
around the coast. The main resort area is flat,<br />
which makes getting around very easy, even<br />
with a pushchair or wheelchair, although some<br />
of the outlying areas are on slopes.<br />
Turunç<br />
Turunç is reached by a steep, winding road,<br />
which snakes around the mountains from<br />
İçmeler. As you round a sharp bend, you catch<br />
your first glimpse of the resort lying in front of<br />
you, steep mountains giving way <strong>to</strong> the small<br />
copyrightedimagekindly suppliedbyExclusiveEscapes<br />
5UnspoiltbeachontheBozburunpeninsula<br />
bay with its sparkling waters and sandy beach.<br />
Turunç is a sleepy resort, full of character. The<br />
accommodation here is mainly small family-run<br />
hotels, with some good self-catering properties.<br />
The main street has a good selection of<br />
restaurants with a few music bars, and enough<br />
shops <strong>to</strong> cater for your immediate holiday<br />
requirements. The roads which lead down <strong>to</strong><br />
the resort are steep, however, so it is not ideal<br />
for those who have difficulty in walking. Boats<br />
leave from the charming quayside for daytrips<br />
around the surrounding bays and there are also<br />
water taxi services <strong>to</strong> Marmaris, approximately<br />
30 minutes away, for those who want <strong>to</strong> do<br />
some serious bargain-hunting.<br />
Akyaka<br />
Akyaka is popular with local Turkish holidaymakers,<br />
but accommodation here is only<br />
available through a handful of UK opera<strong>to</strong>rs. It<br />
is less than a hour’s drive from Marmaris but in<br />
character is worlds away. It is perfect for those<br />
who want <strong>to</strong> experience the real <strong>Turkey</strong>, away<br />
from the crowds. Little more than a village,<br />
part of its charm comes from the distinctive
local architecture, with octagonal shaped<br />
houses with intricately carved wooden<br />
ceilings, balconies and window frames.<br />
Lying in the Azmak river valley, Akyaka<br />
is surrounded by fragrant eucalyptus trees.<br />
The river winds down through fields <strong>to</strong> the<br />
seafront, where there is a small sandy beach<br />
and a number of beachfront restaurants. A<br />
few miles outside the <strong>to</strong>wn, reached by<br />
road or sea is the attractive Çakalı Plajı<br />
or pebble beach. There are a number of<br />
excellent fish restaurants on the river, and<br />
imagecourtesy of<br />
ExclusiveEscapes<br />
a small village centre with more restaurants<br />
and a few shops. There is a small chemist<br />
but no bank and any major purchases are<br />
best made in Marmaris.<br />
Datça<br />
Datça is set <strong>to</strong> the end of the peninsula,<br />
which stretches out <strong>to</strong> the west at the point<br />
where the Aegean meets the Mediterranean,<br />
facing the tiny Greek island of Simi. It is a<br />
popular s<strong>to</strong>pping off point for the gulets on<br />
a Blue Cruise from Bodrum or Marmaris,<br />
but is relatively difficult <strong>to</strong> access by road,<br />
even though Marmaris is just 75 kms away,<br />
which means that it has remained relatively<br />
undeveloped. This is a blessing for the<br />
visi<strong>to</strong>rs who come here for its unspoilt<br />
beauty and authentic atmosphere. It is a<br />
charming village, its whitewashed buildings<br />
draped with bougainvillea, with plenty of<br />
shops, bars and restaurants serving mostly<br />
fish and traditional Turkish fare. There are<br />
some beautiful beaches nearby including<br />
the bays of Aktur and Kargı. There is a<br />
regular ferry service <strong>to</strong> Bodrum as well<br />
as <strong>to</strong> the Greek island of Simi. The ruins<br />
of the ancient Carian city of Knidos stand<br />
at the end of the peninsula, some 38 kms<br />
away. The city was famed for its temple of<br />
Aphrodite, the remains of which can still be<br />
seen <strong>to</strong>day, and was an important centre of<br />
art and culture in the 4th century BC.<br />
strangebuttrue<br />
StNicholas–theoriginalSantaClaus–wasborninPatarain<strong>Turkey</strong><br />
andhasachurchdedicated<strong>to</strong>himinDemre.<br />
5A smallcovenearTurunç.<br />
6(below)Marmaris Castle<br />
6(bot<strong>to</strong>m)Içmeler Bay<br />
TheLorymaPeninsula<br />
imagecourtesy of<br />
Ana<strong>to</strong>lianSky<br />
factfile where<strong>to</strong>stay<br />
relaxation<br />
his<strong>to</strong>ry&culture
54|discoverTURKEY<br />
THEBODRUM<br />
PENINSULA<br />
factfile<br />
Forbeach-lovers: The best sandy bay in the area is that of<br />
Bitez, although Gümbet <strong>to</strong>o has a sandy beach and plenty<br />
of watersports - Bodrum doesn’t have a beach of its own.<br />
Forculturevultures: Visit the ancient theatre,<br />
overlooking the <strong>to</strong>wn, which is just about all that remains<br />
of the city of Halicarnassus. The castle <strong>to</strong>o houses an<br />
interesting museum which displays shipwrecks and<br />
other items recovered by divers from the vicinity.<br />
Forthrills: Head for Gümbet beach where there is a range<br />
of watersports including parasailing and water-skiing.<br />
Forkids: Bitez is perfect for a relaxed family<br />
holiday. There are 2 Aquaparks, one on the road<br />
<strong>to</strong> Ortakent and the other in Bodrum itself.<br />
Forbargain-hunters: On Tuesdays there is a clothing<br />
market and on Fridays a fruit and vegetable market – a<br />
must for those staying in self-catering accommodation<br />
– which also sells a range of other goods.<br />
Fornigh<strong>to</strong>wls: Bodrum is renowned for its<br />
nightlife, including the famous Halikarnas open-air<br />
disco, which has fantastic views over the castle,<br />
and a spectacular laser light and floor show.<br />
Gettingawayfromthecrowds: Head for one<br />
of the small villages on the peninsula for lunch<br />
in Yalıkavak or snorkelling in Gümüşlük.<br />
Eatingout: Bodrum is also popular with local<br />
Turkish <strong>to</strong>urists, so you can find everything from<br />
traditional fare <strong>to</strong> international cuisine.<br />
Greatdaysout: Take a boat trip <strong>to</strong> see the<br />
sights of the original Blue Cruise, exploring<br />
the neighbouring islands and coves.<br />
NearestAirport: Bodrum<br />
Distance: Bodrum 33 km, Milas 16<br />
km, Gümbet 41 km, Bitez 46km<br />
discoverturkeyatwww.go<strong>to</strong>turkey.co.uk<br />
Bodrum<br />
Situated on a peninsula, Bodrum is one of the most chic and European<br />
resorts in <strong>Turkey</strong>, its charm residing in its blend of relaxed Mediterranean<br />
atmosphere, his<strong>to</strong>rical architecture and its proximity <strong>to</strong> a vast<br />
array of fantastic beaches, fishing villages and trendy nightclubs. The<br />
city, known in ancient times as Halicarnassus, <strong>to</strong>wn of Herodotus, has<br />
grown dramatically in recent years with the opening of an international<br />
airport – yet its delightful charm remains intact with palm-lined streets<br />
and whitewashed, flat-roofed houses dotted across its terraced hillsides.<br />
The views of the city are exceptionally striking against the stunning<br />
backdrop of the Castle of St Peter, which stands formidably between<br />
the city’s twin bays. It is even more spectacular in the summer as<br />
Bodrum bursts in<strong>to</strong> colour with cascades of bright pink and purple<br />
bougainvillea flowing from the dazzling white houses that line its<br />
narrow streets, winding down <strong>to</strong>wards the sea.
Bodrum is also the yachting<br />
centre of <strong>Turkey</strong> and<br />
its world-class Marina is a favourite destination for yachts that<br />
cruise the Aegean and the Mediterranean. It is an excellent place<br />
from which <strong>to</strong> organise a sailing trip with a vast number of sailing<br />
companies who cater for all levels of sailing experience. Most will<br />
organise boats with or without a crew so whether you are looking<br />
<strong>to</strong> organise a day-trip or take a longer sailing holiday, you can<br />
take advantage of the crystal-clear azure seas, stunning coastline<br />
and myriad of rocky coves and sandy beaches nearby. Oc<strong>to</strong>ber is<br />
also the month of the Bodrum Cup Race, attracting yachts from<br />
around the world.<br />
Another major attraction of Bodrum is its buzzing cafes, restaurants<br />
and shops, as well as its wealth of trendy and sophisticated<br />
nightlife. By day, the central bazaar is a great place for shopping<br />
3BodrumMarinaisapopularcentrefor<br />
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Gümuşluk<br />
Turgutrels<br />
Yalıkavak<br />
Türkbüku<br />
Bitez<br />
Gümbet Bodrum<br />
3Thewindmills scatteredalong<br />
thehillsaroundBodrum–now<br />
sadlyfallingin<strong>to</strong>disrepair<br />
BodrumPeninsula<br />
with its array of leather, clothes, carpets, and<br />
assorted souvenir and gift shops. Or, if you<br />
venture in<strong>to</strong> the narrow streets of the old<br />
<strong>to</strong>wn around Meyhaneler Sokak, you will<br />
discover chic boutiques and souvenir shops,<br />
along with rustic Turkish restaurants. There<br />
is also a weekly market near the bus station<br />
if you want a colourful taste of the native<br />
produce, including the delicious locally grown tangerines.<br />
But the city really comes <strong>to</strong> life at night, with a magical atmosphere<br />
that doesn’t sleep until dawn. Whether you are searching<br />
for romantic harbour-side dinners, an evening promenade or<br />
sipping cocktails in the upmarket marina, there is<br />
something <strong>to</strong> suit everyone. Bodrum also boasts<br />
didyouknow?<br />
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factfile where<strong>to</strong>stay<br />
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some of the most sophisticated and trendy bars<br />
and clubs in <strong>Turkey</strong>, many with imported DJs,<br />
including the internationally famous Halikarnas<br />
Disco complete with stunning views of the<br />
bay below.<br />
Bodrum has accommodation <strong>to</strong> suit all tastes<br />
and budgets dotted in and around its pretty<br />
<strong>to</strong>wn centre, but the quietest places <strong>to</strong> stay are<br />
in the west of <strong>to</strong>wn and in the hills <strong>to</strong>wards the<br />
east. In <strong>to</strong>wn, many people like <strong>to</strong> stay in the<br />
Kumbahçe Mahalle away from Cumhuriyet<br />
Caddesi, or in the Tepecik district, along or just<br />
off Neyzen Tevfik Caddesi. Getting around is<br />
also easy with the dolmuş shuttle-services and<br />
buses that operate frequent services from the<br />
Bodrum o<strong>to</strong>gar <strong>to</strong> all the nearby <strong>to</strong>wns and<br />
villages scattered around the peninsula. Taxis<br />
are another very common way <strong>to</strong> get around,<br />
and are easy <strong>to</strong> find even at night.<br />
Gümbet<br />
Named after the domed water-cisterns that<br />
speckle the countryside near-by, Gümbet is<br />
the closest beach <strong>to</strong> Bodrum – just 10 minutes<br />
discoverturkeyatwww.go<strong>to</strong>turkey.co.uk<br />
Nasılsınız? İyiyim<br />
Howareyou?I’mfine<br />
away by car - and is very popular with British<br />
holidaymakers, many of whom choose <strong>to</strong> stay<br />
here close <strong>to</strong> the beach and venture in<strong>to</strong> Bodrum<br />
at night. As it has grown in popularity, however,<br />
Gümbet has developed in its own right and<br />
now offers a wide choice of lively bars and<br />
restaurants, popular with a young crowd. Its long<br />
sandy beach is lined with hotels and pensions<br />
which attract many young people and watersports<br />
enthusiasts with its large windsurfing<br />
school and diving courses. Other beach-front<br />
watersports are also very popular in Gümbet,<br />
including parasailing, ringo and water-skiing.<br />
Getting <strong>to</strong> the centre of Bodrum from Gümbet is<br />
very easy with regular dolmuş and bus services,<br />
as well as a small caique (boat) service that runs<br />
from the beach.<br />
Gümüşlük<br />
Reached by a winding road from Gürece,<br />
Gümüşlük is very popular for its secluded setting.<br />
Ever since being designated as an archaeological<br />
site, no major buildings have been allowed <strong>to</strong><br />
alter the landscape, making it a very pleasant<br />
place <strong>to</strong> stay with its unspoilt scenery, long sand<br />
5StPeter’s Castlehasdominatedthis<br />
harbour sinceit wasbuiltin1402.<br />
and gravel beach and a handful of excellent fish<br />
restaurants perched right on the sea-front. The<br />
site of ancient Myndos, Gümüşlük is scattered<br />
with remnants of its his<strong>to</strong>rical past: as you<br />
look out <strong>to</strong>wards the harbour you will spot<br />
the fortification wall, an ancient <strong>to</strong>wer and<br />
submerged walls. Also, if you walk <strong>to</strong>wards the<br />
south end of the beach, you will also be able <strong>to</strong><br />
swim very close <strong>to</strong> some of the ruins, making<br />
it the perfect spot for snorkelling. Gümüşlük<br />
is accessible by dolmuş from Bodrum or from<br />
Turgutreis.<br />
Turgutreis<br />
A sophisticated new marina adorns the waterfront<br />
at Turgutreis, complete with exclusive<br />
cafes, restaurants and boutiques, as well as a<br />
host of new bars and discos. Though not very<br />
sandy, its beach is very popular with families<br />
because the sea is shallow for quite a way<br />
out, making it safer for young children. For a<br />
more peaceful alternative <strong>to</strong> the main beach,
5ThebuildingofBodrum’sancient theatrewas startedbyMausolus<br />
4Bodrumisknownforitsenergeticandexcitingnightlife<br />
there is also a long and sandy beach near<br />
the lighthouse on the way <strong>to</strong>wards Akyarlar.<br />
There is also good access <strong>to</strong> Bodrum<br />
from Turgutreis, with a regular dolmuş<br />
service that s<strong>to</strong>ps at the main square in<br />
Turgutreis.<br />
Yalıkavak<br />
Formerly the area’s main sponge-fishing<br />
port, the village of Yalıkavak maintains<br />
a relaxing atmosphere for quaint seaside<br />
eating. Its position in the north-western<br />
corner of the peninsula, 18km from Bodrum<br />
means it is one of the least developed spots<br />
in the area with fewer hotels and self-catering<br />
apartments, making it an enjoyable stay<br />
away from the crowds. As you reach the<br />
bay, you will notice the ruins of three old<br />
windmills on the hills - the hills around<br />
the village are also perfect for picnics and<br />
walks, particularly in the spring<br />
when they are covered with a<br />
colourful carpet of wild flowers bursting<br />
newly in<strong>to</strong> bloom.<br />
Türkbükü<br />
Türkbükü is one of Bodrum’s best-kept<br />
secrets with its array of exclusive hotels,<br />
excellent sea-front restaurants situated on<br />
wooden piers and trendy bars that burst in<strong>to</strong><br />
life after sunset. By day, its beach-front<br />
cafes and hotels are havens for the jet-set,<br />
with fantastic views of the beautiful bay and<br />
wooden platforms dotted with sophisticated<br />
sun-loungers from which <strong>to</strong> swim.<br />
Bitez<br />
Bitez lies on a bay, a few kilometres west<br />
from Bodrum, attracting an older, more<br />
upmarket crowd. The gently-sloping coarsesand<br />
beach has wooden piers for swimming<br />
and is lined with whitewashed hotels and<br />
resort villas, whilst also host <strong>to</strong> a popular<br />
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windsurfing and sailing school - Its sheltered<br />
cove and shallow water are perfect<br />
for beginners. Backed by lush tangerine<br />
orchards, Bitez is perfect for those who<br />
want <strong>to</strong> escape the crowds, whilst also<br />
having good access <strong>to</strong> Bodrum with direct<br />
dolmuses <strong>to</strong> and from the city.<br />
Ortakent<br />
You can reach Ortakent from the main<br />
highway west of Bodrum and it is very<br />
popular with Turkish families. Its two-kilometre<br />
long beach is considered by many <strong>to</strong><br />
be one of the best on the peninsula and is<br />
dotted with several restaurants, motels and<br />
some unique <strong>to</strong>wer-houses.<br />
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THEFETHIYE<br />
REGION<br />
factfile<br />
Forbeach-lovers: The stunning lagoon of Ölüdeniz<br />
is one of the best in <strong>Turkey</strong>, or you can join the<br />
locals at the nearby pebble beach of Gemiler.<br />
Forculturevultures: Head <strong>to</strong> Fethiye Museum, and<br />
check out the theatre of Telmessos, built in the early<br />
Roman period, which was only excavated in 1994.<br />
Forthrills: Ölüdeniz is one of the best places<br />
for Paragliding in the world. The Dalaman river<br />
is good for white-water rafting and Fethiye<br />
is also a big centre for scuba diving.<br />
Forkids: The beaches here are gently shelving and<br />
great for children. Older kids will enjoy the pedalloes on<br />
the lagoon itself. There is also an Aquapark in Çalış.<br />
Forbargain-hunters: Fethiye’s Tuesday<br />
market is the largest in the area, and there are<br />
also smaller markets in Hisarönü on Mondays<br />
and Günlükbaşı (for Calış) on Sundays.<br />
Fornigh<strong>to</strong>wls: Hisarönü is probably the liveliest – with a<br />
few good dance bars which stay open till the early hours.<br />
Gettingawayfromthecrowds: The s<strong>to</strong>ne village<br />
of Kaya is quite literally deserted. If you set off<br />
early in the morning, before the sun is <strong>to</strong>o high,<br />
it makes a pleasant walk from Hisarönü. S<strong>to</strong>p for<br />
lunch in one of the village restaurants nearby.<br />
Eatingout: A wide choice of Turkish and international<br />
cuisine in resorts, but a visit <strong>to</strong> the area would be<br />
incomplete without sampling some locally caught fresh fish.<br />
Greatdaysout: Visit the ancient Lycian city of Tlos<br />
and marvel at the ruins that overlook the breathtaking<br />
Xanthos Valley including an Ot<strong>to</strong>man fortress,<br />
Lycian <strong>to</strong>mbs, a theatre and a bath complex.<br />
Nearestairport: Dalaman<br />
Distance: Fethiye 40 kms; Ölü Deniz 48 kms<br />
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Ölüdeniz<br />
Ölüdeniz is the archetypal picture-postcard beach, backed by dramatic<br />
pine-clad hills, and is the view that you see on many a brochure cover.<br />
Literally translated as ‘dead sea’, the stunning lagoon is a protected area,<br />
ensuring that its natural beauty is preserved. There is a small entrance<br />
charge <strong>to</strong> use the lagoon beach and only non-mo<strong>to</strong>rised watersports<br />
are allowed on the lagoon itself. The main resort beach, which is free<br />
entry, is the long stretch of coarse sand and shingle, known as Belceğiz<br />
beach. Most of the accommodation, built in the traditional local Muğla<br />
style, is set back from the beachfront and in the streets behind. There<br />
is a strip alongside the seafront promenade with a number of relaxed<br />
bars, restaurants serving local and international cuisine and shops,<br />
which stay open well in<strong>to</strong> the night. It is a perfect family resort, great<br />
for a laid-back beach holiday, with plenty of facilities but not <strong>to</strong>o much<br />
development. Boats leave from the bay for trips around the surrounding
coast and paragliding is a<br />
big draw with the descent<br />
from the Babadağ mountains <strong>to</strong> land on Belceğiz beach, rating as<br />
one of the best in the world.<br />
Hisarönü<br />
Fifteen years ago there were only a few houses here but now it is<br />
a lively resort in its own right. Due <strong>to</strong> the planning restrictions and<br />
lack of space <strong>to</strong> expand in Ölüdeniz itself, many holidaymakers now<br />
stay in this lively village. It is in a stunning location, surrounded<br />
by stunning pine-clad mountains, and hotels are all built in the<br />
local style, low rise, mostly with rooms set in villa-style blocks<br />
and decorative wooden balconies. The beach of Ölüdeniz is just<br />
a short dolmuş ride away (approx. 15 minutes), and the <strong>to</strong>wn of<br />
Fethiye is also easily reached, approximately the same distance<br />
3Paraglidingover thestunninglagoonofÖlüdeniz.<br />
imagecourtesy of<br />
ExclusiveEscapes<br />
Göcek<br />
Ölüdeniz<br />
TheFethiyeRegion<br />
Fethiye<br />
Hisarönü<br />
3TheeeriedesertedhousesofKayaköy<br />
away in the opposite direction. You can,<br />
however, easily spend your time in Hisarönü<br />
itself, lazing by the pool, and venturing out<br />
at night <strong>to</strong> sample international or local fare<br />
in one of the many restaurants, and visit its lively bars playing<br />
music well in<strong>to</strong> the early hours. There are plenty of shops here<br />
<strong>to</strong>o, with a wider range on offer than in Ölüdeniz itself.<br />
didyouknow?<br />
Julius Caesar proclaimedhiscelebrated<br />
words,“Veni,Vidi,Vici” (Icame,Isaw,I<br />
conquered)in<strong>Turkey</strong> whenhedefeated<br />
thePontus,aformidablekingdom<br />
intheBlackSearegionof<strong>Turkey</strong>.<br />
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relaxation<br />
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Ovacık<br />
Just a short distance from Hisarönü, is the newer<br />
resort area of Ovacık, which is essentially a<br />
collection of hotels and apartment buildings,<br />
blending in with the stunning mountain scenery.<br />
It is more peaceful than its neighbour, and all<br />
facilities are in the centre of Hisarönü just a<br />
short walk or dolmuş ride away. Ovacık makes<br />
a good base for those who want <strong>to</strong> walk in the<br />
surrounding countryside.<br />
Fethiye<br />
Fethiye is a traditional market <strong>to</strong>wn set around<br />
a beautiful natural harbour. It is a big centre for<br />
scuba diving and boats leave from here for day<br />
trips around the stunning coastline. The most<br />
popular is the 12 islands boat trip, a relaxing<br />
way <strong>to</strong> spend the day, <strong>to</strong>uring the beautiful<br />
coves and islands of the Gulf of Fethiye, with<br />
breaks for lunch and swimming. Life here<br />
continues all year round, and recently, many<br />
British nationals have chosen <strong>to</strong> make this<br />
relaxed area their home. There are a number of<br />
hotels in the <strong>to</strong>wn itself, which mostly attract<br />
older couples, who enjoy the traditional lifestyle<br />
and also like the fact that it is flat and easy <strong>to</strong><br />
get around. There is a greater variety of shops<br />
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En yakın plaj nerede?<br />
<strong>Where</strong> is the nearest beach?<br />
in the narrow streets of the bazaar area, Paspatur,<br />
offering more competitive prices than those<br />
in any of the resorts. In the evenings head for<br />
this lively area for live music and Turkish bars.<br />
There is no beach in Fethiye itself although<br />
there are hotels which have access <strong>to</strong> the sea<br />
for swimming. Once the site of the ancient city<br />
of Telmessos, all that remains are the Lycian<br />
rock <strong>to</strong>mbs, which overlook the modern <strong>to</strong>wn,<br />
a couple of Lycian sarcophagi and a small<br />
Roman theatre.<br />
3The spectacular and unforgettable<br />
SaklıkentGorge<br />
Çalış Beach<br />
The nearest beach <strong>to</strong> Fethiye is Çalış beach, a<br />
pebble and coarse sand beach in a beautiful<br />
setting, which can be reached by boat or dolmuş<br />
from the <strong>to</strong>wn centre. The seafront promenade<br />
with its hotels and restaurants is closed <strong>to</strong> traffic<br />
during the summer, making it safe for children.<br />
The resort has expanded around the beach, and<br />
has a relaxed feel popular with families and<br />
older couples.<br />
Kayaköy<br />
One of the highlights of a stay in this area<br />
is a visit <strong>to</strong> the eerie ghost <strong>to</strong>wn of Kayaköy,<br />
literally ‘s<strong>to</strong>ne village’. Once the Greek <strong>to</strong>wn<br />
of Karmylassos, it was abandoned in the 1920’s.<br />
It has recently been the subject of renewed<br />
interest as it features as the setting for Louis de<br />
Bernières novel, ‘Birds without Wings’which<br />
provides a fascinating insight in<strong>to</strong> life here and<br />
the period of dramatic social change which <strong>to</strong>ok<br />
place in the time leading up <strong>to</strong> the foundation<br />
of the Republic of <strong>Turkey</strong>. There are around<br />
400 houses here <strong>to</strong>gether with churches and<br />
other public buildings. It can be visited by<br />
dolmuş, on foot from Hisarönü or even on<br />
horse-back.<br />
Göcek<br />
Göcek is popular with yachting types who come<br />
here for its excellent marina. It is a charming<br />
resort with a range of sophisticated hotels and<br />
upmarket restaurants and boutiques.<br />
Saklıkent Gorge<br />
Known in Turkish as the ‘hidden city’,<br />
Saklıkent is a stunning mountain gorge some<br />
44 kms from Fethiye, a narrow opening stretching<br />
an incredible 18 kms in<strong>to</strong> the rockface of<br />
Mount Akdağ. A wooden walkway has been<br />
constructed above the icy cold waters of the<br />
mountain springs of Gökçesu and Ulupınar. If<br />
you are feeling particularly brave you can take<br />
a dip here, but otherwise the waterside cafes<br />
provide a relaxing break and a chance <strong>to</strong> enjoy<br />
the spectacular setting.
5TheviewoverÖlüdenizlagoon<br />
TheFethiyeRegion<br />
copyrightedimagekindly suppliedbyExclusiveEscapes<br />
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relaxation<br />
his<strong>to</strong>ry&culture
62|discoverTURKEY<br />
THETURKISH<br />
RIVIERA<br />
factfile<br />
Forbeach-lovers: Side has a long stretch of<br />
golden sand, known appropriately as Kumköy<br />
or ‘sand village’, with many of its newer, more<br />
luxurious hotels leading right on <strong>to</strong> the beach.<br />
Forculturevultures: You really don’t have <strong>to</strong> go<br />
far afield. Side’s Temple of Apollo makes a romantic<br />
spot at sunset, and the ancient theatre and charming<br />
museum are well worth exploring, but set off early in<br />
the morning so that you will miss the sun at its height,<br />
Forthrills: Head up in<strong>to</strong> the hills for a jeep<br />
safari <strong>to</strong> explore the beautiful mountain<br />
scenery and discover traditional villages.<br />
Forkids: The beach is ideal for kids, and there<br />
is a big Aquapark in Antalya, nearby<br />
Forbargain-hunters: Side is full of shops, its narrow<br />
streets packed with stalls selling everything imaginable.<br />
Fornigh<strong>to</strong>wls: Side has good night life. The old <strong>to</strong>wn<br />
has a few bars, mostly with an authentic atmosphere,<br />
some with views over the old peninsula and the ruins.<br />
There are some large night clubs just outside the <strong>to</strong>wn,<br />
some of which operate shuttle services from the centre.<br />
Gettingawayfromthecrowds: Take a boat trip on<br />
the stunning Manavgat River, where you can swim<br />
in the cool waters, relax and enjoy the scenery.<br />
Eatingout: There are plenty of restaurants in Side,<br />
serving a range of local food and Turkish specialities.<br />
Greatdaysout: Visit Antalya, the main city of this region<br />
<strong>to</strong> see its charming old <strong>to</strong>wn, Kaleiçi, or play a round<br />
of golf at one of the superb courses at nearby Belek.<br />
Nearestairport: Antalya<br />
Distance: Side 50 kms, Kemer 60 kms,<br />
Alanya 125 kms, Belek 25 kms<br />
discoverturkeyatwww.go<strong>to</strong>turkey.co.uk<br />
The Turkish Riviera is the most stunning part of <strong>Turkey</strong>’s Mediterranean<br />
coast. A relatively recent discovery for British and Irish holidaymakers,<br />
it is growing rapidly in popularity.<br />
Side<br />
The old <strong>to</strong>wn of Side is set on a peninsula with sandy beaches <strong>to</strong> either<br />
side, surrounded still by the ancient city walls. It boasts an impressive<br />
ancient Hellenistic theatre, the largest in the area, with seating for 17,000,<br />
overlooking the sea; a charming museum and the stunning Temple of<br />
Apollo, a romantic spot at sunset. The old <strong>to</strong>wn is limited by the walls<br />
and the sea, which has been a bonus, meaning that the accommodation<br />
here is mostly pensions and small hotels. The long stretch of sandy<br />
beach a few kilometres outside the old <strong>to</strong>wn, known with good reason as<br />
‘kumköy’ or ‘sand village’, has become the centre of <strong>to</strong>urism development<br />
in the <strong>to</strong>wn and is now home <strong>to</strong> large four and five star hotels and
good quality self-catering<br />
accommodation. Side has<br />
something for everyone: great beaches, his<strong>to</strong>ry, an abundance of<br />
shops, lively nightlife and a good choice of restaurants.<br />
Antalya<br />
Antalya, the ancient city of Attaleia, is the largest on the Mediterranean.<br />
It is typical of <strong>Turkey</strong>, a thriving modern city, with a his<strong>to</strong>ric<br />
heart in the centre of Kaleiçi, within the old city walls. This area<br />
has seen something of a renaissance in recent years, with many of<br />
the wooden Ot<strong>to</strong>man mansions being res<strong>to</strong>red and turned in<strong>to</strong><br />
boutique hotels. No cars are allowed in the narrow streets of the<br />
old <strong>to</strong>wn so it is a good place <strong>to</strong> soak up the atmosphere around<br />
the charming harbour. The symbol of Antalya is the fluted minaret<br />
or Yivli Minare built by the Seljuk sultan Alaeddin Keykubat in the<br />
3AntalyaHarbour<br />
Antalya<br />
Kemer<br />
Belek<br />
3KurşunluFalls<br />
Side<br />
TheTurkishRiviera<br />
13th century. Culture vultures will find plenty<br />
of interest in the Archaeological Museum<br />
which has artefacts from the Paleolithic Age<br />
right through <strong>to</strong> Ot<strong>to</strong>man times. Antalya has a<br />
backdrop of stunning mountain scenery, and<br />
the city is set high on cliffs, with many of its<br />
grandest hotels overlooking the sea on the<br />
outskirts of the <strong>to</strong>wn. The beach area of Lara,<br />
approximately 12 kms <strong>to</strong> the east is home <strong>to</strong> the best beach in the<br />
area, known for its golden sand, which is rapidly becoming a resort<br />
in its own right. To the west, the long pebble beach of Konyaaltı<br />
is also popular. Heading up in<strong>to</strong> the mountains, you can make the<br />
most of the beautiful scenery by visiting the spectacular Düden or<br />
Kurşunlu Waterfalls <strong>to</strong> see a completely different<br />
side <strong>to</strong> the Turkish landscape. At Saklıkent, just<br />
didyouknow?<br />
Aesop–famousforhisfablesand<br />
parables–wasborninAna<strong>to</strong>lia.<br />
Alanya<br />
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50 kms away you can even visit a ski resort,<br />
where they usually have snow on the pistes<br />
until early April.<br />
The Altlın Portakal, ‘Golden Orange’ film<br />
festival is held in the Autumn. Antalya has a<br />
large number of 5 star hotels, many of which<br />
have meetings facilities, and this, <strong>to</strong>gether with<br />
the Pyramid Congress Centre which can hold<br />
up <strong>to</strong> 3000 delegates make it a popular venue<br />
for conferences.<br />
Perge<br />
Just 18 kms from Antalya, Perge was an important<br />
city in Pamphylia and was visited by St.<br />
Paul during his missionary journeys. Today,<br />
the city gate flanked by lofty <strong>to</strong>wers, theatre<br />
and baths are of interest,<br />
Aspendos<br />
Just 50 kms east of Antalya, Aspendos was<br />
an important centre of trade during Roman<br />
times. Today, the most impressive aspect of<br />
Aspendos is her stunning theatre, which was<br />
built in approx. 162 AD. It seats 15,000 and has<br />
been beautifully preserved. Each year it hosts<br />
discoverturkeyatwww.go<strong>to</strong>turkey.co.uk<br />
Çok teşekkür ederim<br />
Thankyou verymuch<br />
the Aspendos Opera and Ballet Festival which<br />
takes place in June and July and gives you the<br />
opportunity <strong>to</strong> see performances of classics<br />
in a magnificent setting. The aqueduct, which<br />
supplied water <strong>to</strong> the city is also still relatively<br />
intact and is an impressive sight.<br />
Belek<br />
Belek is <strong>Turkey</strong>’s premier golf resort (see page<br />
40 for details), but don’t let that put you off as<br />
it also has plenty <strong>to</strong> attract the non-golfer <strong>to</strong>o.<br />
The setting is spectacular with long, golden<br />
sandy beaches, and a backdrop of mountains.<br />
Belek has won awards for environmentally<br />
friendly development and there are many rare<br />
3Towersflankingthecity<br />
gateofancientPerge<br />
species of plant and wildlife indigenous <strong>to</strong><br />
the area. Accommodation is mostly of the 5<br />
star variety with all facilities laid on including<br />
sporting and other activities, spa treatments<br />
and entertainment. Many of the hotels are also<br />
set up <strong>to</strong> cater for children with kids clubs and<br />
other facilities.<br />
Alanya<br />
Once a pirate stronghold, Alanya is now a<br />
modern resort, famed for its beautiful sandy<br />
beaches. Its harbour is dominated by the<br />
Kızılküle or Red Tower, which protected the<br />
dockyards in Seljuk times, the remains of<br />
which can still be seen in the waters. High on<br />
a promon<strong>to</strong>ry is the old fortress or kale.with<br />
its well preserved walls, <strong>to</strong>wers and Byzantine<br />
church. It takes about an hour <strong>to</strong> walk up (or<br />
you can catch a bus) but it is well worth it for<br />
the views alone. Alanya itself has no less than<br />
three blue flag beaches and has a full range<br />
of accommodation with plenty of good shops<br />
and restaurants, <strong>to</strong>gether with lively nightlife.<br />
An unusual sight is the Damlataş Cave with<br />
its strange rock formations, which is said <strong>to</strong><br />
relieve those who suffer from asthma. A boat<br />
trip will take you <strong>to</strong> the Fosforlu Mağara with<br />
its phosphorescent rocks, Kızlar Mağarası,<br />
where pirates imprisoned their female captives<br />
and the lovers’caves or Aşıklar Mağarası. Just<br />
15 kms <strong>to</strong> the east is the idyllic scenery of the<br />
Dim Çayı river.<br />
Kemer<br />
Kemer was one of <strong>Turkey</strong>’s first purposebuilt<br />
resorts, carefully planned <strong>to</strong> blend in<br />
with the surrounding scenery. At its heart is<br />
the attractive marina, a s<strong>to</strong>pping-off point<br />
for gulets on the blue cruise. Around it are<br />
sophisticated shops, bars and restaurants cater-
5TheunspoiltbeachatOlympos.<br />
4ThenaturalwonderoftheChimaeraor ‘burnings<strong>to</strong>ne’.<br />
ing for the resort’s well-heeled clientele.<br />
Kemer Beach is a clean pebble beach, but<br />
the main resort areas are on the beaches<br />
located a little further out, namely Kızıltepe,<br />
Göynük, Beldibi, Çamyuva and Tekirova.<br />
Surrounded by pine forests, they offer a<br />
range of accommodation including five<br />
star hotels, all designed <strong>to</strong> blend in <strong>to</strong> the<br />
natural environment.<br />
Phaselis<br />
The three harbours of this Lycian port city<br />
were once a major commercial centre. In<br />
the shelter of Mount Tahtalı, it is a popular<br />
s<strong>to</strong>pping off point for yachts, and its clear<br />
waters and sandy beaches are popular<br />
with sun-seekers. The remains are mostly<br />
Roman and include a theatre, baths, aqueducts,<br />
Hadrian’s Gate, an agora and an<br />
acropolis.<br />
Olympos<br />
andYanartaş<br />
(Chimaera)<br />
The ancient city, which<br />
was prominent in Lycian<br />
times, is set on the southern<br />
side of Mount Tahtalı,<br />
surrounded by oleander and laurel bushes.<br />
It is in a charming spot set on a 3 mile long<br />
beach amidst unspoilt nature, and the ruins<br />
include baths, a temple, Roman theatre and<br />
necropolis. To the north of Olympos, past<br />
the attractive beachfront hamlet of Çiralı,<br />
high on the hillside is the legendary burning<br />
flame of Yanartaş, literally ‘burning s<strong>to</strong>ne’.<br />
Caused by natural gas escaping from the<br />
rocks, it is immortalised in the legend of<br />
the Lycian hero Bellerophon, mounted<br />
on his winged horse, Pegasus, slew the<br />
fire-breathing monster, the Chimaera. In<br />
Byzantine times it was a religious site, and<br />
strangebuttrue<br />
TheTurksintroducedcoffee<strong>to</strong>Europewhentheretreating<br />
Ot<strong>to</strong>manarmyabandonedsacksofitat thegatesofVienna.<br />
TheTurkishRiviera<br />
there are remains of a temple here probably<br />
dedicated <strong>to</strong> Vulcan.<br />
Demre<br />
Also known as Kale, the ancient city of<br />
Myra, is mostly famous for its connection<br />
with St. Nicholas, who was bishop here<br />
in the 4th century. His church is the focus<br />
of the annual ceremony which takes place<br />
<strong>to</strong> commemorate him on or around his<br />
feast day of 6th December. It is well worth<br />
seeing the Roman theatre which remains<br />
here, overlooked by spectacular rock <strong>to</strong>mbs,<br />
dating from the 4th century BC.<br />
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THEKALKAN<br />
REGION<br />
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Forbeach-lovers: Head <strong>to</strong> the beautiful 22 km<br />
long golden, sandy beach of Patara, where you<br />
will have plenty of space <strong>to</strong> spread out.<br />
Forculturevultures: Thereissomuch<strong>to</strong>see<br />
in the area including the ancient cities of Patara,<br />
Xanthos and Myra, which are all nearby.<br />
Forthrills: Kaş has become a centre for adventure<br />
sports offering sea kayaking, mountain biking<br />
and canyoning as well as scuba diving.<br />
Forkids: On the whole, the resorts in this area do not<br />
have facilities specifically catering for children but<br />
the tiny hamlet of Çiralı is great for a relaxed beach<br />
holiday <strong>to</strong> experience the authentic Turkish lifestyle.<br />
Forbargain-hunters: Visit the Thursday market<br />
in Kalkan <strong>to</strong> practise your bartering skills.<br />
Fornigh<strong>to</strong>wls: Nightlife is low-key. There are jazz<br />
bars, other live-music bars and several popular small<br />
dancing bars with comfortable seating for non-dancers.<br />
Gettingawayfromthecrowds: Head <strong>to</strong> Olympos and<br />
make the trek up in<strong>to</strong> the hills <strong>to</strong> see the breath-taking<br />
natural wonder of the Chimaera or Yanartaş, burning s<strong>to</strong>ne.<br />
Eatingout: Kalkan is ideal for romantic candlelit<br />
dinners <strong>to</strong> sample the local fish or traditional<br />
Turkish cuisine in roof-<strong>to</strong>p restaurants offering<br />
atmospheric, moonlit dining, with stunning views.<br />
Greatdaysout: Don’t miss a boat trip <strong>to</strong> take<br />
in the haunting sunken city of Kekova and<br />
the charming castle of Simena, with time for<br />
snorkelling and swimming in the clear waters.<br />
Nearestairport: Dalaman<br />
Distance: Kalkan 143 kms; Kaş 114 kms<br />
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Sophisticated resorts providing an authentic experience, in the midst<br />
of his<strong>to</strong>ry and stunning nature<br />
Kalkan<br />
In recent years, Kalkan has become an in spot for upmarket couples<br />
seeking a taste of authentic <strong>Turkey</strong>. It is a pretty village of s<strong>to</strong>ne-built<br />
houses set on a hillside around the attractive harbour. Narrow lanes<br />
lead down <strong>to</strong> the seafront, packed with shops, sophisticated bars and<br />
restaurants, mostly serving traditional Turkish fare, with some excellent<br />
seafood and fish restaurants on the harbour-front. The roads are steep so<br />
you need <strong>to</strong> be relatively fit <strong>to</strong> get around, but the hotels and villas set<br />
higher up on the hillside, benefit from stunning views down over the<br />
pretty bay. Due <strong>to</strong> the landscape there is simply no room for large-scale<br />
development so most of the hotels are small and intimate. The resort<br />
has expanded rapidly in recent years, however, and the buildings have
copyrightedimage<br />
kindly suppliedby<br />
ExclusiveEscapes<br />
extended beyond Kalkan<br />
itself <strong>to</strong> the bays on either<br />
side, such as Kalamar bay<br />
<strong>to</strong> the west – a long walk or<br />
a short taxi ride away from the centre. Most of the hotels on the<br />
seafront in this area and the ‘beaches’ have access <strong>to</strong> the sea via<br />
platforms or ladders, straight in<strong>to</strong> deep water. Kalkan does have<br />
a small pebble <strong>to</strong>wn beach, but serious beach-lovers head out by<br />
the regular dolmuş service <strong>to</strong> stunning Kaputaş, approximately<br />
6 kms away, a fine pebble and shingle beach which has clear,<br />
impossibly turquoise water. It is reached by a long flight of steps<br />
with no facilities and no shade, so you need <strong>to</strong> come prepared.<br />
Others prefer the long stretch of sandy beach at Patara, which<br />
is reached by a regular dolmuş service. Boats leave from the<br />
harbour here and from nearby Kaş, approx. 26 kms away, for<br />
trips around the bays and <strong>to</strong> the surrounding islands. Kalkan has<br />
3ThecharmingharbourofKalkan.<br />
Patara<br />
Kalkan<br />
Kaş<br />
KekovaIsland<br />
3A typical<strong>to</strong>mbat thesite<br />
ofancientXanthos.<br />
TheKalkanRegion<br />
a unique ambience and is one of the most<br />
sophisticated of <strong>Turkey</strong>’s resorts, but is not<br />
recommended for those with difficulty in<br />
walking or for those with small children.<br />
The ancient sites of Xanthos and Le<strong>to</strong>on are within easy reach of<br />
Kalkan. For further details see page 32.<br />
didyouknow?<br />
Homer wasborninIzmironthe<br />
westcoas<strong>to</strong>f<strong>Turkey</strong>andhe<br />
depictedTroy,whichisnorthof<br />
Izmir,inhisEpictheIliad.<br />
factfile where<strong>to</strong>stay<br />
relaxation<br />
his<strong>to</strong>ry&culture
68|discoverTURKEY<br />
Kaş<br />
Kaş is a relaxed harbour <strong>to</strong>wn, which until<br />
recently was relatively un<strong>to</strong>uched by <strong>to</strong>urism.<br />
It is now becoming a firm favourite with older<br />
couples, who love its laid-back atmosphere.<br />
Recently, it has also become a magnet for<br />
those seeking a taste of adventure, as it is a<br />
big centre for scuba diving and also offers<br />
activities such as trekking, canoeing, canyoning<br />
and horse riding. The name Kaş means<br />
‘eyebrow’, describing the curved shape of the<br />
pretty harbour, with its traditional tea garden and<br />
discoverturkeyatwww.go<strong>to</strong>turkey.co.uk<br />
tiny, whitewashed mosque. Wooden Ot<strong>to</strong>man<br />
houses, their balconies bright with bougainvillea,<br />
overhang the narrow streets, home <strong>to</strong> shops,<br />
bars and restaurants. As you wander, you may<br />
come across the ancient sarcophagus, which<br />
is a remnant of the ancient city of Antiphellos,<br />
whose well-preserved theatre has also survived<br />
<strong>to</strong> the present day. Overlooked by Lycian rock<br />
<strong>to</strong>mbs, Kaş is in a picturesque spot looking out<br />
on the Greek island of Kastellorizo known as<br />
Meis in Turkish, a short boat trip away. There are<br />
a number of pebble beaches in the surrounding<br />
bays, easily reached by the boats which leave<br />
from the harbour and Kaputaş is approximately<br />
20 kms <strong>to</strong> the west. The stunning Çukurbağ<br />
peninsula, just outside the <strong>to</strong>wn, has recently<br />
become home <strong>to</strong> a number of sophisticated<br />
boutique hotels.<br />
Patara<br />
Patara has the honour of being the longest<br />
beach in <strong>Turkey</strong> – 22 kms of beautiful white<br />
sand, backed by dunes and mimosa bushes. It<br />
was once the most important harbour in Lycia,<br />
famous for its oracle of Apollo, until it silted<br />
up in the Middle Ages. It was the birthplace of<br />
St. Nicholas and it is known that St. Paul and St.<br />
Luke visited. The site is fascinating, the remains<br />
part buried in the sands, evocative and intrigu-<br />
copyrightedimagekindly suppliedbyExclusiveEscapes<br />
5thespectacular sanddunesofPatara<br />
4apartially submerged<strong>to</strong>mbin<br />
thesunkencityofKekova<br />
ing. They include an acropolis, temple, agora,<br />
theatre, baths and the magnificent triumphal<br />
arch. The beach is a nesting place for the rare<br />
caretta caretta turtles and access is not permitted<br />
after dark.<br />
Kekova<br />
Usually reached by boat from Üçağız, the area<br />
of Kekova, named after its largest island, is a<br />
group of islands and bays, home <strong>to</strong> a number<br />
of ancient Lycian settlements, some of which<br />
are now submerged in the sea. This beautiful<br />
spot is easily visited on a day’s boat trip<br />
from Kalkan or Kaş. The most atmospheric<br />
spot is the ‘sunken city’ or batık şehir, where<br />
ancient houses, stairs and pavements can be<br />
seen submerged in the clear waters. It is now<br />
forbidden <strong>to</strong> swim here. A boat trip usually<br />
takes in a visit <strong>to</strong> nearby Kaleköy or Simena<br />
Castle, a charming port overlooked by the ruins<br />
of a Crusader castle, which offers stunning<br />
views of the surrounding scenery.
TheKalkanRegion<br />
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relaxation<br />
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70|discoverTURKEY<br />
THENORTH<br />
AEGEAN<br />
factfile<br />
Forbeach-lovers: Head out of <strong>to</strong>wn <strong>to</strong> Long Beach, a 6km<br />
stretch of sand, approx. 20 minutes away <strong>to</strong> the south by<br />
dolmuş or the sandy beach of Kuştur 5 kms <strong>to</strong> the north.<br />
Forculturevultures: Ephesus, the bestknown<br />
of <strong>Turkey</strong>’s ancient cities is right on<br />
your doorstep just 30 minutes drive away.<br />
Forthrills: Take a jeep safari <strong>to</strong> explore the stunning<br />
mountain scenery in the surrounding area.<br />
Forkids: The beaches are perfect for children<br />
and Kuşadası has two of Europe’s biggest<br />
aquaparks – Adaland and Aquafantasy, both have<br />
free shuttle services from the resort centre.<br />
Forbargain-hunters: The food market takes place on<br />
Fridays, and for clothes bargains try the Wednesday market.<br />
Fornigh<strong>to</strong>wls: For the liveliest bars head<br />
for Bar street or for something a little more<br />
sophisticated try the area of Kaleiçi.<br />
Gettingawayfromthecrowds: The stunning National<br />
Park on the Dilek Peninsula is well worth a visit as is the<br />
village of Sirince, in the eastern mountains of Selçuk, 15<br />
kms away. An old Greek village, it is famous for its local<br />
wine and olive oil. Try the traditional gözleme pancakes.<br />
Eatingout: Kuşadası has adapted so well <strong>to</strong> her foreign<br />
guests that it is as easy <strong>to</strong> find a Sunday roast, a Chinese<br />
or Mexican meal as <strong>to</strong> find traditional Turkish fare.<br />
Greatdaysout: Don’t miss Ephesus, and Kuşadası<br />
is also the nearest beach resort <strong>to</strong> the stunning ‘cot<strong>to</strong>n<br />
castle’ of Pamukkale. It is easy <strong>to</strong> arrange an excursion<br />
for the 4-hour drive inland <strong>to</strong> see this unique natural<br />
wonder, <strong>to</strong>gether with the ancient city of Hierapolis.<br />
Nearestairport: Adanan Menderes Airport, Izmir<br />
Distance: Kusadasi 80 kms<br />
discoverturkeyatwww.go<strong>to</strong>turkey.co.uk<br />
Kuşadası<br />
Kuşadası is one of <strong>Turkey</strong>’s largest and most cosmopolitan resorts<br />
and a s<strong>to</strong>pping off point for the big cruise-liners. It is a good all round<br />
resort, offering great beaches, excellent shopping and some serious<br />
nightlife. Kuşadası literally means ‘Bird Island’ and takes its name<br />
from the tiny islet known as Güvercin Adası or Pigeon Island, which<br />
is attached <strong>to</strong> the mainland by a causeway and boasts a 14th century<br />
Genoese fort. There are a number of sandy beaches in the area. Kadınlar<br />
Plajı or ‘Ladies Beach’ is central but can get crowded so it is wiser in<br />
high season <strong>to</strong> head a little further out of the centre where the beaches<br />
are just as sandy but offer more space. Kaleiçi is the old centre of the<br />
<strong>to</strong>wn and is a popular shopping and entertainment area. The Ot<strong>to</strong>man<br />
Kervansaray or traveller’s inn is now in private hands but is an impressive<br />
building and a landmark in the <strong>to</strong>wn centre. Today’s travellers can
find comfort in a full<br />
range of accommodation<br />
in all categories and<br />
of all sizes.<br />
Kuşadası’s setting also makes it a good base for those wanting<br />
<strong>to</strong> visit Ephesus which is only approximately 30 minutes’ drive<br />
away.<br />
It is also surrounded by some of <strong>Turkey</strong>’s most beautiful national<br />
park including the Kalamaki National Park, which lies on the<br />
Dilek Peninsula, approx. 30 kms <strong>to</strong> the south. Dense pine trees<br />
cover the mountains which plunge dramatically down <strong>to</strong> beaches<br />
and crystal-clear sea. Some of <strong>Turkey</strong>’s rarest wild animals can<br />
be found here including the Ana<strong>to</strong>lian cheetah and wild horses.<br />
Sundays are often busy with local visi<strong>to</strong>rs. Another stunning spot<br />
3Diningwithviews over thebay ofKuşadası<strong>to</strong>wards<br />
PigeonIslandfrom whichtheresort takesits name<br />
6TheLibrary ofCelsusatEphesus<br />
Çeşme<br />
Izmir<br />
NorthAegean<br />
in the vicinity is Lake Bafa which is approx. 80<br />
kms south east of Kuşadası.<br />
Ephesus<br />
Troy<br />
Ephesus<br />
Kuşadası<br />
Pergamum<br />
Ephesus is the most famous of <strong>Turkey</strong>’s ancient cities. It was the<br />
site of the Temple of Artemis, <strong>to</strong> whom the city was dedicated,<br />
which was one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient<br />
World. During Roman times it was the most<br />
didyouknow<br />
Thesmallpox vaccination was<br />
introduced<strong>to</strong>EnglandandEurope<br />
from<strong>Turkey</strong>byLadyMontaguin the<br />
early 19thcentury (afterTurkish<br />
physicians savedher son’slife).<br />
factfile where<strong>to</strong>stay<br />
relaxation<br />
his<strong>to</strong>ry&culture
72|discoverTURKEY<br />
important port on the Aegean and a commercial<br />
centre, which also played a significant role in<br />
the spread of Christianity. It has been well<br />
excavated and gives the visi<strong>to</strong>r a real sense<br />
of the scale of the city and of what life may<br />
have been like in Roman times. As well as the<br />
grand public buildings such as the impressive<br />
Library of Celsus, the theatre and the Temple<br />
of Hadrian, the remains include streets, private<br />
houses, public <strong>to</strong>ilets and even a brothel. Most<br />
of the remains date from the 4th century BC,<br />
although there was probably a city on this site<br />
as far back as 1000 BC.<br />
The Virgin Mary is believed <strong>to</strong> have spent her<br />
last days in Ephesus, which was one of the<br />
Seven Churches of the Apocalypse mentioned in<br />
Revelations. The other churches <strong>to</strong>o are around<br />
this area of <strong>Turkey</strong>. For further information<br />
see page 44.<br />
Nearby in Selçuk is the Basilica of St. John,<br />
dating from the 6th century and a Byzantine<br />
citadel.<br />
Pergamum<br />
Pergamum, modern-day Bergama, is another<br />
of the Seven Churches. It is one of <strong>Turkey</strong>’s<br />
most impressive sites, the ruins of the ancient<br />
discoverturkeyatwww.go<strong>to</strong>turkey.co.uk<br />
city set high on a<br />
hillside dramatically<br />
overlooking the modern<br />
<strong>to</strong>wn. It was a great<br />
centre of culture with<br />
a famous library and the renowned Asclepion,<br />
dedicated <strong>to</strong> the god of health. The theatre is<br />
well-preserved and set in<strong>to</strong> a steep hillside and<br />
the other remains include the monumental altar<br />
of Zeus, a gymnasium and the agora.<br />
İzmir<br />
Hesap lütfen<br />
CanIhavethebillplease<br />
İzmir is the third largest of <strong>Turkey</strong>’s cities and<br />
the second largest port after İstanbul. Known in<br />
ancient times as Smyrna, it has had a long and<br />
illustrious past, and <strong>to</strong>day, has a reputation as a<br />
relaxed, cosmopolitan city and cultural centre.<br />
It has no beach but it certainly merits a day-trip<br />
from any of the resorts nearby. It is good for<br />
shopping and there is plenty of cultural and<br />
his<strong>to</strong>ric interest including the superb Archaeological<br />
Museum, the Fine Arts Museum and<br />
the Ethnography Museum. Some of the best<br />
views of the city are <strong>to</strong> be enjoyed from the<br />
vantage point of the Kadifekale (translated as<br />
‘velvet castle’), the ruined castle which stands<br />
high above the city and was built during the<br />
reign of Alexander the Great. The Agora or<br />
marketplace is a remnant of the Roman city,<br />
and there are a number of significant Ot<strong>to</strong>man<br />
3ThestunningsiteofancientPergamum<br />
buildings including: the Konak Clock Tower<br />
(saat kulesi) which has become a symbol of<br />
the city; the Kızlarağası Han, a res<strong>to</strong>red travellers’<br />
inn, which is now a craft market; and the<br />
Asansör, a working eleva<strong>to</strong>r.<br />
Çeşme<br />
Çeşme is a charming, sleepy resort <strong>to</strong>wn,<br />
dominated by the 14th century castle of St.<br />
Peter. It has two main streets, where shops,<br />
restaurants and a couple<br />
of bars are situated. Most<br />
of the hotels are set on the<br />
beaches outside the centre.<br />
Ilıca is one of the most<br />
impressive, with its fine,<br />
white sand, and Altınkum<br />
(golden sand) beach<br />
is also renowned. The<br />
peninsula has excellent<br />
conditions for windsurfing<br />
and Alaçati beach is one<br />
of the best spots for this.<br />
Çeşme means ‘spring’,<br />
named after the natural<br />
springs found in the area. Ilıca is still a popular<br />
centre for thermal treatments. For further details<br />
see page 46. Ferries run between ports in Italy<br />
and Çeşme as well as between Çeşme and<br />
the Greek island of Chios. See the factfile<br />
for details.<br />
Ayvalık<br />
Ayvalık is an attractive port, surrounded by<br />
pine forests, with charming s<strong>to</strong>ne houses and<br />
cobbled streets. It is popular with local Turkish<br />
holidaymakers and a great place for those who<br />
want <strong>to</strong> escape the crowds and soak up the<br />
authentic atmosphere. There are good sandy<br />
beaches approx. 6 kms south of the <strong>to</strong>wn in<br />
the area of Sarmısaklı.<br />
Altınkum<br />
Altınkum literally means ‘golden sand’ an apt<br />
description of the beautiful beach in this relaxed<br />
resort. Popular with families it has a range<br />
of accommodation and plenty of restaurants<br />
and bars for entertainment. There are lots of<br />
shops and an attractive street market in the
4Theunforgettablewhite<br />
terraces ofPamukkale<br />
centre. It is popular with both Turkish and<br />
international holidaymakers. It is also a<br />
good base from which <strong>to</strong> visit the nearby<br />
sites of Priene, with its superb stadium,<br />
theatre and Ionic Temple of Athena; Miletus<br />
with its 15,000-seater theatre and Baths of<br />
Faustina; and Didyma. The impressive site<br />
of the temple of Apollo at Didim, ancient<br />
Didyma, is well worth a visit. It was one of<br />
the ancient world’s most sacred places, one<br />
of the fore-most oracles of the Greek world.<br />
It was originally built in the 7th century BC<br />
and then res<strong>to</strong>red by Alexander the Great.<br />
The early Christians converted it <strong>to</strong> a church.<br />
It has been well preserved and the head of<br />
Medusa is of particular interest.<br />
Foça<br />
The resort of Foça is popular with Turkish<br />
holidaymakers living in nearby İzmir. Its<br />
his<strong>to</strong>ric sites include a Genoese castle and a<br />
small ancient theatre. The resort is split in<strong>to</strong><br />
two bays with beaches in each. Yenifoça<br />
or ‘new Foça’ is just 23 kms away by boat<br />
and has even better, and more secluded<br />
beaches.<br />
Gallipoli<br />
The Gelibolu peninsula, which forms the<br />
western border of the narrow straits known<br />
as the Dardanelles, was the scene of one of<br />
the bloodiest campaigns of the First World<br />
War. In 1915 the Allied forces (British,<br />
Australian, New Zealand, French and<br />
Indian) tried <strong>to</strong> seize the straits, but were<br />
fought off by the Turkish army, inspired<br />
by the young officer, Mustafa Kemal, later<br />
<strong>to</strong> become Atatürk, who defended the area.<br />
500,000 soldiers lost their lives during the<br />
9 month battle with its bitter trench warfare.<br />
The Gelibolu (Gallipoli) National His<strong>to</strong>ric<br />
Park is dedicated <strong>to</strong> those who died and it<br />
3 amemorial<strong>to</strong> thesoldiers who<br />
lost theirlivesatGallipoli<br />
NorthAegean<br />
includes a number of cemeteries, memorials<br />
and museums. Most visi<strong>to</strong>rs stay in the<br />
attractive <strong>to</strong>wn of Çanakkale nearby.<br />
Troy<br />
For further information on the ancient site<br />
of the legendary city of Troy see page 32.<br />
Pamukkale<br />
strangebuttrue<br />
Part of<strong>Turkey</strong>’s southwestern shorewasaweddinggiftfromMarkAn<strong>to</strong>ny <strong>to</strong> Cleopatra.<br />
The stunning white terraces of Pamukkale<br />
and the neighbouring site of Hierapolis<br />
are situated inland, close <strong>to</strong> the <strong>to</strong>wn of<br />
Denizli. They can be reached from most of<br />
the coastal resorts on a one or two day trip<br />
but Kuşadası is the closest – approximately<br />
4 hours drive away. For further information<br />
on Pamukkale see page 32.<br />
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DALYAN<br />
factfile<br />
Forbeach-lovers: The beautiful spit of sand which<br />
is the İztuzu Beach is completely undeveloped, and<br />
is reached by a pleasant boat trip from Dalyan.<br />
Forculturevultures: Visit the ruined city of ancient<br />
Caunos, with its impressive theatre and Temple of Apollo.<br />
Forthrills: Dalyan is such a sleepy <strong>to</strong>wn that you<br />
will have <strong>to</strong> head further afield for paragliding at<br />
Ölüdeniz or scuba diving in Fethiye or Marmaris.<br />
Forkids: Dalyan is perfect for a relaxed family holiday<br />
but there are no specific facilities for children. They are<br />
sure <strong>to</strong> enjoy the mud baths at nearby Ilıca and Sultaniye<br />
– a good excuse <strong>to</strong> get as muddy as possible and really<br />
wallow. They will also enjoy going on an early morning<br />
boat trip <strong>to</strong> try and spot the graceful river turtles.<br />
Forbargain-hunters: Visit the market in nearby<br />
Köyceğiz, or buy souvenirs in the small shops in<br />
Dalyan – they do a great line in all types of turtle!<br />
Fornigh<strong>to</strong>wls: the nightlife is very laid back but there<br />
are some nice bars here, which are open until late.<br />
Gettingawayfromthecrowds: Take a trip <strong>to</strong> the<br />
stunning Lake Köyceğiz, and visit the waterfalls where<br />
the locals go <strong>to</strong> cool off and have a refreshing swim.<br />
Eatingout: There are some charming restaurants on<br />
the riverfront, as well as a good selection in the <strong>to</strong>wn<br />
itself, serving mostly fish and traditional Turkish cuisine.<br />
The tastiest way <strong>to</strong> eat, though, is <strong>to</strong> s<strong>to</strong>p for a barbecue<br />
lunch on board, of freshly-caught fish or crab.<br />
Nearestairport: Dalaman<br />
Distance: Dalyan 27 kms<br />
discoverturkeyatwww.go<strong>to</strong>turkey.co.uk<br />
Dalyan is just 30 minutes from Dalaman airport, and was destined <strong>to</strong><br />
become a centre for large-scale <strong>to</strong>urism development. Plans changed,<br />
however, in the mid 80’swhen it was discovered that the beautiful<br />
spit of sandy beach is a nesting ground for the rare Caretta caretta<br />
or loggerhead turtles which lay their eggs here in the clean fine sand.<br />
Dalyan, has remained, therefore, a sleepy haven its unspoilt nature<br />
protected by strict regulations which mean that the beach is not<br />
accessible after dark.<br />
Dalyan is on a river delta, its narrow waterways, surrounded by reed<br />
beds. The small <strong>to</strong>wn is set <strong>to</strong> a backdrop of stunning mountains, the<br />
river overlooked by ancient Lycian-style <strong>to</strong>mbs carved high in<strong>to</strong> the rock<br />
face. There are some good restaurants on the riverfront and the main<br />
street is home <strong>to</strong> a selection of restaurants and shops and a few bars.<br />
The <strong>to</strong>wn itself is flat and easy <strong>to</strong> get around. Boats depart regularly<br />
from the riverfront for the short trip <strong>to</strong> İztuzu beach, approximately 40
minutes away. It is a beautiful<br />
bar of fine, golden sand<br />
gently shelving in<strong>to</strong> the sea. Since there is no development, here,<br />
however, there is little in the way of facilities so it is best <strong>to</strong> come<br />
prepared. The beach can also be reached by dolmuş.<br />
Those who stay in Dalyan have a choice of self-catering and hotel<br />
accommodation, from 4 star hotels <strong>to</strong> simple pensions. Most<br />
are built in traditional style <strong>to</strong> fit in with the natural setting, and<br />
many are set on the beautiful riverfront. Many people, however,<br />
visit Dalyan on a day-trip by boat from nearby resorts such as<br />
Marmaris and Fethiye.<br />
The ruins of the ancient city of Caunos are close by and can<br />
by reached by boat or on foot. It was originally on the sea, but<br />
its harbour gradually silted up and felt in<strong>to</strong> disuse. It has only<br />
Dalyan<br />
Dalyan<br />
3Theancient rock<strong>to</strong>mbs overlookingthereedbeds ofDalyan<br />
5TheunspoiltbeachofIztuzu<br />
3Mudbathsin thevicinity ofDalyan<br />
been partially excavated but the remains are<br />
extensive and include a theatre dating from<br />
the 2nd century BC, Roman baths, temple<br />
of Apollo and agora or marketplace.<br />
Close <strong>to</strong> Dalyan are the thermal springs and mudbaths of Ilıca and<br />
Sultaniye, which are reputed <strong>to</strong> have many health-giving powers<br />
and are a fun and relaxing way <strong>to</strong> unwind.<br />
Recently, there have been a number of developments at the nearby<br />
bay of Sarıgerme, with its beautiful sandy beach,<br />
surrounded by pine forests.<br />
didyouknow?<br />
ThefamousTrojanWars <strong>to</strong>okplace<br />
in western<strong>Turkey</strong>,aroundthesite<br />
whereawooden statueoftheTrojan<br />
Horsehasbeenerected<strong>to</strong>day.<br />
factfile where<strong>to</strong>stay<br />
relaxation<br />
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76|discoverTURKEY<br />
ISTANBUL<br />
highlights<br />
Foropulence: Visit Topkapı Palace – there is so much <strong>to</strong><br />
see here that you need at least 1⁄2 a day. Book a <strong>to</strong>ur of<br />
the Harem when you arrive and don’t miss the stunning<br />
emeralds and other jewels. See also pages 10-15.<br />
Foratmosphere: Explore the world under the<br />
pavements, in the Yerebatan cisterns, which s<strong>to</strong>red<br />
water for the Byzantine city, with their hundreds of<br />
columns, artfully lit <strong>to</strong> a soundtrack of classical music.<br />
Forbeauty: Marvel at the stunning mosaics which still<br />
decorate the walls of Haghia Sophia (Aya Sofya).<br />
Forculture: If you only have time <strong>to</strong> visit one mosque<br />
make it the Blue Mosque – if you are in İstanbul for longer,<br />
take in the Süleymaniye <strong>to</strong>o. See also pages 10-15<br />
Forshopping: Visit the Grand Bazaar, where you<br />
will find yourself buying things you never knew<br />
you needed. Take a trip <strong>to</strong> Ortaköy <strong>to</strong> shop at the<br />
Sunday market on the shores of the Bosphorus.<br />
Forpanoramicviews: Take a boat trip on the<br />
Bosphorus for the best views of the city.<br />
discoverturkeyatwww.go<strong>to</strong>turkey.co.uk<br />
İstanbul is truly a world city, a city which everyone should visit at least<br />
once in their lifetime. It is an enchanting blend of Eastern and Western<br />
culture, a vibrant, modern city, with an unique identity, its rich past<br />
coexisting alongside its youthful exuberance. Although no longer the<br />
capital of <strong>Turkey</strong> – Atatürk created Ankara as the capital at the heart<br />
of his new Turkish Republic, as a symbolic break from the Ot<strong>to</strong>man<br />
Empire – it remains the country’s cultural and business centre.<br />
It is a city of contrasts, bustling with the cacophony of 21st century life,<br />
and yet achingly beautiful. It is set in a stunning location, surrounded<br />
by water – the narrow strait of the Bosphorus and the serene Sea of<br />
Marmara separating Europe from Asia. İstanbul has a foot in each,<br />
celebrating the best of both heritages. As Byzantium, Constantinople and<br />
finally, İstanbul, it has been the capital of three Empires, each leaving<br />
their mark in the form of stunning palaces, castles, mosques, churches
and monuments. The legacy<br />
of its chequered past can be<br />
seen in every turn of the modern city.<br />
Orientation&<strong>Where</strong> <strong>to</strong><strong>Stay</strong><br />
The layout of İstanbul can seem confusing at first. The Bosphorus<br />
or Boğaz divides the city in<strong>to</strong> the European and Asian sides, linked<br />
by two magnificent bridges, spanning the continents, the first of<br />
which was opened in 1973 <strong>to</strong> celebrate the 50th anniversary of<br />
the Republic. Most visi<strong>to</strong>rs <strong>to</strong> the city, staying for a few days, will<br />
have little reason <strong>to</strong> visit the Asian side, except for as part of a<br />
Bosphorus <strong>to</strong>ur, on a boat which zigzags from side <strong>to</strong> side, <strong>to</strong><br />
take in the best of each.<br />
3İstanbul’sfamous skylineofturretsandminarets.<br />
Istanbul<br />
5Bosphorus Bridgelinking<br />
EuropeandAsia<br />
Istanbul<br />
3DetailofamosaicfromHaghiaSophia<br />
The European side, however, is also divided<br />
in two by the Golden Horn or Haliç, which<br />
roughly divides the his<strong>to</strong>ric part of Old<br />
İstanbul, encompassing the areas of Sultanahmet<br />
and Laleli, from the modern city. It<br />
is crossed by a number of bridges, the most<br />
famous of which is the pon<strong>to</strong>on, the Galata<br />
Bridge. Most visi<strong>to</strong>rs on short city breaks stay in the old <strong>to</strong>wn as<br />
the vast majority of the sites which they will be visiting are in this<br />
area. İstanbul’s most famous sites – the Blue Mosque or Sultan<br />
Ahmet Cami, Aya Sofya (Haghia Sophia), Topkapı Sarayı (Palace)<br />
and the Grand Bazaar (Kapalı Çarşi) – are all within a 30 minute<br />
walk of each other. It is easy <strong>to</strong> get around on foot<br />
or by making use of the tram, which provides a<br />
didyouknow?<br />
FlorenceNightingalepractisedher<br />
nursingskillsinahospitalin what<br />
was thenScutariandis nowknown<br />
asÜsküdar,asuburbofIstanbul<br />
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regular service on the pedestrianised main street.<br />
In terms of accommodation, there are now a<br />
number of characterful boutique hotels in the<br />
area of Sultanahmet, many of which are res<strong>to</strong>red<br />
Ot<strong>to</strong>man wooden mansions. These are ideal for<br />
those who really want <strong>to</strong> savour the authentic<br />
atmosphere of the Old Town. Those on a budget,<br />
may want <strong>to</strong> consider the more modern, and<br />
competitively priced hotels of the Laleli district,<br />
although this area is much busier.<br />
Although it is convenient, the disadvantage of<br />
staying in the Old Town, is that, since it is not<br />
a residential area, you don’t really benefit from<br />
the ambience of the modern city of İstanbul,<br />
with its excellent restaurants, lively bars and<br />
cosmopolitan feel. Some of İstanbul’s finest,<br />
most luxurious hotels are located on the Bosphorus<br />
with stunning views over the straits, or in<br />
the modern business districts. There are also<br />
some his<strong>to</strong>ric establishments in the area known<br />
as Pera, which blossomed at the turn of the last<br />
century. The heart of modern İstanbul, is Taksim<br />
Square and the streets around. The advantage<br />
of staying here is that in the evenings you have<br />
a wealth of restaurants and relaxed bars within<br />
an easy walk of your hotel.<br />
<strong>Where</strong>ver you choose <strong>to</strong> stay, it doesn’t take<br />
much <strong>to</strong> make the most of the city, and even<br />
three days will give you the opportunity <strong>to</strong> see<br />
the highlights. It is such a large city, however,<br />
that even if you visit time and again, you can<br />
still discover something new each time. It is<br />
easy <strong>to</strong> get around. There are a couple of handy<br />
trams – one in the old <strong>to</strong>wn, and the other in the<br />
main shopping street in Pera, İstiklal Caddesi.<br />
Taxis are plentiful and relatively cheap and there<br />
discoverturkeyatwww.go<strong>to</strong>turkey.co.uk<br />
Turkish Memnun oldum<br />
English Pleased<strong>to</strong> meet you<br />
are also dolmuş and bus services for those who<br />
really want <strong>to</strong> explore. Most <strong>to</strong>ur opera<strong>to</strong>rs can<br />
arrange <strong>to</strong>urs <strong>to</strong> see the main sights.<br />
Sightseeing<br />
There is so much <strong>to</strong> see in İstanbul that it is<br />
impossible <strong>to</strong> cover everything. See the highlights<br />
section for those which you really should<br />
not miss, and go armed with a good guidebook<br />
<strong>to</strong> give you the lowdown and make sure that<br />
you get the most from your stay. See also page<br />
30 for more information on the his<strong>to</strong>ric areas<br />
of the city.<br />
The Bosphorus<br />
Some of İstanbul’s finest vistas are <strong>to</strong> be seen<br />
from the Bosphorus. If you have time it is well<br />
worth spending at least half a day viewing the<br />
sights and savouring the atmosphere. You can<br />
take a guided <strong>to</strong>ur on a small boat, or Turkish<br />
3Kızkulesi,knownasLeander’sTower or<br />
theMaiden’sToweris nowarestaurant<br />
4TheBlueMosque<br />
Maritime Lines (TDİ) runs a good value public<br />
ferry service which leaves two or three times<br />
a day and does the full round trip as far as<br />
Anadolu Kavağı, the nearest village <strong>to</strong> the Black<br />
Sea on the Asian side, and back <strong>to</strong> Eminönü. It<br />
is a charming place, known for its fish restaurants,<br />
and the walk up <strong>to</strong> the ruined fortress<br />
overlooking the village, is well worth it for the<br />
stunning views. As you leave from Eminönü<br />
you can benefit from some beautiful views<br />
back <strong>to</strong>wards the old <strong>to</strong>wn with its evocative<br />
skyline of turreted roofs and minarets. As you<br />
head <strong>to</strong>wards the Black Sea you will pass the<br />
Dolmabahçe Palace, Beylerbeyi Palace and<br />
the 15th century fortresses built by Mehmet II,<br />
Rumeli Hisarı and Anadolu Hisarı. Also look<br />
out for the stunning wooden Ot<strong>to</strong>man mansions,<br />
many of which have been renovated and form<br />
some of the city’s most desirable residences.<br />
Even if you don’t have time for a Bosphorus<br />
trip just take one of the distinctive city ferries<br />
for a quick trip from Eminönü <strong>to</strong> the Asian<br />
shores and back – <strong>to</strong> Üsküdar for example, just<br />
<strong>to</strong> admire the views of the old <strong>to</strong>wn.<br />
ThePrincesIslands<br />
Those who are staying for a little longer in<br />
İstanbul, should really set aside a day <strong>to</strong> visit<br />
these charming islands in the Sea of Marmara,<br />
just off the coast of İstanbul. The picturesque<br />
scenery of wooded hills, charming beaches and<br />
authentic Ot<strong>to</strong>man mansions, combined with<br />
the tranquil atmosphere, make for a pleasant<br />
contrast <strong>to</strong> the city itself. Easily reached by<br />
ferry or hydrofoil, the ambience of the islands<br />
seems worlds away. Büyük Ada, or ‘Big’island<br />
is the most popular with visi<strong>to</strong>rs. No cars are<br />
allowed but you can take a trip in a horse and<br />
carriage <strong>to</strong> visit the Monastery of St. George.<br />
Beaches<br />
İstanbul itself does not have beaches, although<br />
some people do swim from the Princes Islands.<br />
If you are staying for longer and want a real<br />
resort experience, however, it is better <strong>to</strong><br />
take a bus <strong>to</strong> Şile on the Black Sea Coast and<br />
spend a couple of days in this delightful resort<br />
with its vast golden sandy beach and relaxed<br />
atmosphere.
Istanbul<br />
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Shopping<br />
İstanbul is a great place <strong>to</strong> shop. Whatever you<br />
want <strong>to</strong> buy, you can find the whole range – from<br />
souvenirs in the Grand Bazaar <strong>to</strong> designer labels<br />
in exclusive malls. The same rules apply as in the<br />
rest of <strong>Turkey</strong> ie fixed prices in ‘normal’shops<br />
and bartering in and around the bazaars.<br />
Shopping in the Grand Bazaar, Kapalı Çarşi<br />
is an unique experience. Although some find<br />
the atmosphere overwhelming, if you get in<strong>to</strong><br />
the spirit of it, it is fun. The salesmen’s banter<br />
is lighthearted and they are experts at guessing<br />
nationalities from a distance and choosing their<br />
language accordingly. Some of the lines are sure<br />
<strong>to</strong> bring a smile <strong>to</strong> your face even if you are not<br />
interested in buying. Feel free <strong>to</strong> browse – the<br />
shops selling similar wares tend <strong>to</strong> be grouped<br />
<strong>to</strong>gether, which makes it easier <strong>to</strong> see what’s<br />
on offer before committing yourself. It is usual<br />
<strong>to</strong> be offered a glass of apple tea, elma çayı,<strong>to</strong><br />
ease the bargaining process. The best advice is<br />
simply <strong>to</strong> decide how much you want <strong>to</strong> pay for<br />
something, start the haggling a bit lower and<br />
then move up <strong>to</strong> your original price. You will<br />
soon get an idea of prices if you ask around.<br />
Bir bira lütfen<br />
A beer please<br />
discoverturkeyatwww.go<strong>to</strong>turkey.co.uk<br />
The Bazaar has thousands of shops, <strong>to</strong>gether<br />
with cafes, banks, a post office, police station<br />
and even a mosque – in fact a self-contained<br />
community. They sell everything here from<br />
cheap textiles <strong>to</strong> fine gold jewellery. Leather<br />
goods are excellent value as are ceramics, silver<br />
and, of course, carpets. It is worth a wander<br />
around the İç Bedesten, the oldest part of the<br />
Bazaar at its very centre, where they sell an<br />
eclectic range of antiques and bricabrac.<br />
The Spice Bazaar, known in Turkish as the<br />
Mısır Çarşi or ‘Egyptian Bazaar’ is also well<br />
worth visiting for dried fruit and nuts, spices,<br />
including saffron, Turkish delight and cot<strong>to</strong>n<br />
goods. You can even find stalls where they will<br />
cus<strong>to</strong>m-make a perfume for you. If you have<br />
time, the walk between the Spice Bazaar and<br />
the Grand Bazaar is interesting. To keep your<br />
bearings, just head uphill through the maze of<br />
streets where street vendors sell their wares at<br />
rock bot<strong>to</strong>m prices.<br />
Those who are more interested in looking<br />
at the other end of the scale, should head <strong>to</strong><br />
the area of Nişantaşı for designer shops, the<br />
modern mall of Akmerkez or İstiklal Caddesi.<br />
If you are in İstanbul over the weekend you<br />
should take a trip <strong>to</strong> the area of Ortaköy, just<br />
under the first Bosphorus Bridge <strong>to</strong> visit the<br />
atmospheric Sunday market which takes place<br />
on the seafront.<br />
Eating outandEntertainment<br />
Nightlife in İstanbul is an unique mix – you can<br />
find the latest clubs, which are some of the best<br />
in Europe or a café with cushions on the floor,<br />
where you can smoke a hookah pipe or nargile.<br />
<strong>Where</strong>ver you choose <strong>to</strong> eat, whether you want<br />
a quick snack in the midst of sightseeing or a<br />
romantic dinner for two you are likely <strong>to</strong> find<br />
delicious food made from fresh ingredients, and<br />
can expect good value for money. If you want<br />
traditional street entertainers and musicians<br />
head <strong>to</strong> the area of Kumkapı near the Sea of<br />
Marmara, in the old <strong>to</strong>wn, famous for its fish,<br />
or the Flower Passage Çiçek Pasaji off İstiklal<br />
Caddesi. You can find excellent restaurants<br />
with views and many in his<strong>to</strong>ric buildings,<br />
as well as some very fashionable restaurants<br />
serving international cuisine. İstanbul is famous<br />
for its fish and seafood so you should try <strong>to</strong><br />
eat fish at least once during your stay. There<br />
are some excellent fish restaurants along the<br />
Bosphorus.<br />
For an idea of where <strong>to</strong> go and what <strong>to</strong> do<br />
there are two English language publications,<br />
Time Out Istanbul, (www.timeout.com/travel/<br />
istanbul) and The Guide Istanbul (www.theguideturkey.com/istanbul/)<br />
which are available in<br />
hotels and shops locally.
3(<strong>to</strong>pleft) shoppingin theGrandBazaar<br />
3(left)asea-frontbarinOrtaköy<br />
5(main)YerebatanSarniç,the<br />
cisterns oftheByzantinecity<br />
Istanbul<br />
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CAPPADOCIA<br />
highlights<br />
Forbeauty: Make sure you visit some of the rock<br />
churches with their stunning frescoes. Those in the<br />
Göreme Open Air Museum are particularly impressive.<br />
Foratmosphere: Visit the most impressive<br />
of the underground cities at Derinkuyu.<br />
Togetawayfromthecrowds: Enjoy the fascinating<br />
sights of the relatively undiscovered Soğanlı Valley.<br />
Forhis<strong>to</strong>ry: Visit Hattuşaş – the site of the capital<br />
of the Hittite Empire is one of the most important in<br />
Ana<strong>to</strong>lia. The temples and carvings are extremely<br />
impressive. For further information see page 30.<br />
Forromance: Take a balloon trip <strong>to</strong> watch the sun rise over<br />
the eerie landscapes of fairy chimneys and other-worldly<br />
rock formations and really appreciate the scale of the site.<br />
Forshopping: Buy some of the local<br />
distinctive red clay pottery from Avanos.<br />
Forlocalflavour: Sample the local wine,<br />
made from the grapes which have been grown<br />
in the fertile volcanic soil for centuries.<br />
Fortrekking: Allow a full day <strong>to</strong> trek through<br />
the spectacular unspoilt scenery of the Ihlara<br />
Valley following the course of the Melendiz<br />
Stream through this beautiful gorge.<br />
discoverturkeyatwww.go<strong>to</strong>turkey.co.uk<br />
The region known as Cappadocia includes the centres of Ürgüp, Göreme,<br />
Avanos, Üçhisar, Derinkuyu, Kaymaklı and Ihlara. It is a stunning area of<br />
other-worldly rock formations, subterranean churches and underground<br />
dwellings, the scale of which is over-whelming. For background on<br />
the area see page 30 The area is also famous for its carpet-weaving,<br />
wine and the distinctive red pottery of the Avanos area.<br />
Cappadocia was a refuge for the early Christians, who escaped persecution<br />
by living and worshipping underground. There are an estimated<br />
3000 rock churches in this region, not all of which are open <strong>to</strong> the<br />
public, the existence of which was discovered by chance in 1907 by<br />
a French Jesuit scholar, who was travelling through the area.<br />
Some of the most impressive of the churches are located in the Göreme<br />
Open AirMuseum, which, for the most part, date from the 9th-11th<br />
centuries and have stunning wall paintings. You shouldn’t miss the
Karanlık ‘Dark’Church, the<br />
Elmalı ‘Apple’Church; the<br />
Yılanlı ‘Snake ‘Church with<br />
its paintings of St. George<br />
killing the dragon and the<br />
Tokalı ‘Buckle’ Church.<br />
The Kılıçlar Vadisi also<br />
forms part of this vast site, which takes its name ‘Valley of the<br />
Swords’ from its pointed rock formations.<br />
The village of Göreme itself is at the heart of the area’s <strong>to</strong>urist<br />
industry, and many of its villagers still live in cave dwellings,<br />
some of which have been converted in<strong>to</strong> pensions. Surrounding<br />
the area are the amazing rock formations known evocatively as<br />
Peri Bacaları or ‘Fairy Chimneys’.<br />
3TheareaaroundNevşehir ischaracterised<br />
by its strange rock formations.<br />
Cappadocia<br />
Cappadocia<br />
For panoramic views over the scenery of the Göreme Valley,<br />
visit the citadel of Üçhisar, the huge rock <strong>to</strong>wer, which is the<br />
highest point in the area. Üçhisar and Ürgüp are two of the<br />
most popular places <strong>to</strong> stay in the area, where in recent years, a<br />
number of chic boutique hotels have opened in the old buildings<br />
and rock dwellings.<br />
Located <strong>to</strong> the west of Niğde, is the stunning IhlaraVadisi, a<br />
gorge which is 10 kms long and some 80 metres wide. Popular<br />
for trekking, about 12 of its 60 churches are open <strong>to</strong> the public<br />
including the impressive Eğritas Church.<br />
There are hundreds of undergroundcities<br />
in the regions. Two of the most impressive are<br />
Kaymaklı, which has 8 levels, and Derinkuyu,<br />
which reaches down <strong>to</strong> 55 metres. They were<br />
used by the Christians fleeing persecution in<br />
the 7th century, who created a self-sufficient<br />
environment underground including bedrooms,<br />
kitchens and s<strong>to</strong>rage rooms.<br />
To get away from the crowds visit the picturesque<br />
Soğanlı,Valley, with its many houses,<br />
<strong>to</strong>mbs and churches, displaying excellent<br />
examples of Byzantine painting. More of the<br />
intriguing rock formations can be seen in the<br />
DevrentValley and the Çatalkaya area.<br />
3Thebest way <strong>to</strong> view the landscape<br />
is fromahotairballoon.<br />
didyouknow?<br />
The ChristianNicean Creedwas<br />
formulatedat theFirstEcumenical<br />
Council which was heldinIznik (Nicea).<br />
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THEBLACK<br />
SEAREGION<br />
highlights<br />
Forarchitecture: Visit Safranbolu <strong>to</strong> see the beautifully<br />
preserved wooden Ot<strong>to</strong>man mansions, and public buildings,<br />
which are a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and were the<br />
blueprint for the architecture which spread throughout the<br />
Ot<strong>to</strong>man Empire. See page 32 for more information.<br />
Fordramaticbeauty: Take a trip <strong>to</strong> Sümela<br />
Monastery, the stunning 14th century monastery,<br />
which perches dramatically on a sheer cliff face<br />
and is one of <strong>Turkey</strong>’s most impressive sights.<br />
Forthrills: Enjoy white-water rafting on the rapids of the<br />
fast-flowing Çoruh River. See page 48 for more information.<br />
Foranactiveholiday: <strong>Stay</strong> in Kartalkaya, one of <strong>Turkey</strong>’s<br />
premier ski resorts. See page 42 for more information.<br />
Fornaturalbeauty: Enjoy the stunning scenery<br />
of the mountain plateaux of Ayder – a great<br />
spot for trekking and enjoying nature.<br />
Forlocalflavour: The speciality of the region is hamsi<br />
(anchovy) and the locals cook it in over forty different<br />
ways, including with rice and in börek (with filo pastry)<br />
and they even use it <strong>to</strong> make a traditional dessert.<br />
discoverturkeyatwww.go<strong>to</strong>turkey.co.uk<br />
The Black Sea coast is the greenest and wettest of <strong>Turkey</strong>’s regions.<br />
Lush meadows lie on high mountain plateaux and dramatic forested<br />
peaks fall away <strong>to</strong> the sea. It is at the heart of <strong>Turkey</strong>’s agriculture,<br />
with tea plantations, abundant crops of fruit and nuts and even <strong>to</strong>bacco<br />
growing here. Fishing is also important <strong>to</strong> the region, and the anchovy<br />
forms an important part of its unique cuisine. This is a vast region<br />
with much <strong>to</strong> explore both on the coast and inland. In addition <strong>to</strong> its<br />
unique his<strong>to</strong>ry, its unspoilt nature and mountainous terrain have made<br />
it popular for trekking and it also attracts those who want <strong>to</strong> discover<br />
a more traditional way of life.<br />
Amasra is one of the highlights of the western Black Sea coast. It is a<br />
sleepy, picturesque <strong>to</strong>wn , its charming harbour retaining the remnants<br />
of its past glory – the ruins of a Roman bridge, and the remains of two<br />
4th century fortresses. A stay here can easily be combined with a visit <strong>to</strong><br />
Safranbolu, one of the highlights of the area (see page 32) Continuing
along the coast <strong>to</strong> the east,<br />
it is wise <strong>to</strong> make a s<strong>to</strong>p in<br />
Kastamonu <strong>to</strong> visit its Seljuk and Ot<strong>to</strong>man monuments before<br />
heading out <strong>to</strong> the spectacular IlgazNationalPark, where you<br />
can see bears, foxes and deer. Also in the area is one of the largest<br />
caves in <strong>Turkey</strong> the IlgariniCave, where you can descend some<br />
250 metres.<br />
Trabzon, once the medieval Empire of Trebizond, is the best<br />
base for a <strong>to</strong>ur of the eastern Black Sea coast. It is a modern<br />
cosmopolitan city, the centre of trade with the ex Soviet states.<br />
One of its highlights is the Church of the Divine Wisdom, Aya<br />
Sofya, now a museum, which was built between 1238 and 1263.<br />
Its walls display brightly coloured frescoes depicting themes<br />
from the Bible. Get away from the hustle and bustle with a visit<br />
<strong>to</strong> Atatürk’s villa, set in beautiful gardens above the <strong>to</strong>wn.<br />
3ThestunningSümelaMonasterynearTrabzon<br />
3ThetraditionalOt<strong>to</strong>man<br />
mansions ofSafranbolu<br />
TheBlackSeaRegion<br />
Trabzon<br />
Probably the major attraction of the region,<br />
situated just 46 kms south of Trabzon is<br />
the 14th century Sümela Monastery. It<br />
perches dramatically on a sheer rock face,<br />
270 metres above a deep gorge. Its walls<br />
are painted with brilliant frescoes.<br />
To the south east of Trabzon is the beautiful<br />
alpine lake of Uzungöl, ‘Long Lake’,<br />
surrounded by lush meadows and stunning<br />
mountain scenery, where you can sample<br />
the delicious local trout.<br />
Those who want <strong>to</strong> experience the beautiful nature of this region<br />
at its best should head for the AyderPlateau and the Kaçkar<br />
Mountains <strong>to</strong> the east. The rushing rivers, the Fırtına and the Çoruh<br />
are ideal for canoeing and rafting, and the mountains themselves<br />
are popular with climbers and trekkers.<br />
didyouknow?<br />
Theword‘yoghurt’comesfrom<br />
Turkish,whichisappropriatesince<br />
theTurkseatit witheverything.<br />
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EASTERN<br />
ANATOLIA<br />
highlights<br />
Foratmosphere: Watch the sun rise or set over<br />
the iconic disembodied s<strong>to</strong>ne heads and temple<br />
terraces erected by King Antiochus I on Nemrut<br />
Dağı. See page 32 for more information.<br />
Togetawayfromthecrowds: Visit İshak Paşa Sarayı, the<br />
magnificent Ot<strong>to</strong>man Palace in Doğubeyazit, in a dramatic,<br />
isolated setting. See page 15 for more information.<br />
Forculture: Visit the Great Mosque and Hospital<br />
of Divriği and marvel at its vivid, intricate<br />
carving. See page 30 for more information.<br />
Forstunningviews: Mount Ararat known locally as Ağrı<br />
Dağı is <strong>Turkey</strong>’s highest peak, which rises dramatically<br />
from the plains, and is said <strong>to</strong> have been the resting place<br />
for Noah’s Ark. See page 38 for more information.<br />
Foraspiritualexperience: Visit Halil Rahman<br />
Mosque in Şanlı Urfa with its pool of sacred carp.<br />
Fornaturalbeauty: Visit Lake Van<br />
and enjoy the stunning scenery.<br />
Foranactiveholiday: <strong>Stay</strong> in Palandöken, one of <strong>Turkey</strong>’s<br />
premier ski resorts, situated just 30 minutes from the ancient<br />
<strong>to</strong>wn of Erzurum. See page 42 for more information.<br />
discoverturkeyatwww.go<strong>to</strong>turkey.co.uk<br />
ŞanlıUrfa was known by the Ot<strong>to</strong>mans as Urfa, and was awarded its<br />
prefix, ‘glorious’ for its role in resisting the French in the 1920’s. It is<br />
one of the most ancient areas of settlement, and is believed by some<br />
<strong>to</strong> be the ancient city of Ur. Today, it proudly displays the remnants of<br />
the many civilisations which have made it their home. One of its most<br />
impressive sights is the Halil Rahman Mosque with its sacred pools<br />
of carp. You can also see the cave where Abraham is believed <strong>to</strong> have<br />
been born. Both lie at the foot of a hill crowned by an ancient citadel.<br />
Just 48 kms <strong>to</strong> the south is the ancient city of Harran,mentioned in<br />
the Bible, with its beehive shaped dwellings, which were probably<br />
designed in the 3rd BC. It is believed <strong>to</strong> be the oldest settlement, which<br />
has been continuously occupied, in the world.<br />
Diyarbakır, on the banks of the Tigris, is renowned for its black basalt<br />
walls, decorated with inscriptions and bas reliefs, which surround the
old city and have 16 <strong>to</strong>wers<br />
and 5 gates. Diyarbakır’s<br />
Ulu Cami or ‘Great Mosque’<br />
is one of the holiest sites in<br />
the Islamic world.<br />
Lake Van is <strong>Turkey</strong>’s largest lake, and is the biggest sodium carbonate<br />
lake in the world. It is also one of the world’s highest, at 1,650<br />
metres above sea level. The water is so alkaline that the villagers<br />
can wash their clothes in it without using soap. It is also very<br />
salty. The scenery here is stunning – surrounded by snow-capped<br />
peaks, the highest of which, Süphan Dağı is over 4000 metres.<br />
There are four islands in the lake, the largest of which is Akdamar<br />
Island, which can be reached by boat. It is home <strong>to</strong> the church of<br />
the Holy Cross, built by the 10th century Armenian King, Gagik,<br />
3TheSacredLakeatHalilRahmanMosque,ŞanlıUrfa<br />
5DwellingsinHarran<br />
3CarvingonGreat<br />
MosqueofDivriği<br />
Eastern<strong>Turkey</strong><br />
one of the biggest attractions<br />
in the area.<br />
Erzurumwas located on one<br />
of the main caravan routes<br />
between Europe and India, and<br />
was, therefore, fought over by<br />
many different civilisations.<br />
Most that remains of interest<br />
<strong>to</strong>day is from the Seljuk era<br />
including the religious seminaries,<br />
the Çifte Minareli Medrese<br />
with its twin minarets, and the<br />
Yakut Medrese. Also impressive is the Byzantine citadel, from<br />
which there are excellent views over the city.<br />
43 kms from Kars is the ruined city of Ani. In order <strong>to</strong> visit it<br />
you need <strong>to</strong> obtain permission from the <strong>to</strong>urist office in Kars,<br />
Known <strong>to</strong> the Turks as Ocaklı, it was founded by the Armenians<br />
in the 4th century BC, and reached the height of its prosperity<br />
under King Gagik I. Its city walls, Medieval churches and<br />
grand cathedral are magnificent.<br />
factfile where<strong>to</strong>stay<br />
relaxation<br />
his<strong>to</strong>ry&culture
Turkish CultureandTourismOffice<br />
t: 020 7629 7771<br />
e: info@go<strong>to</strong>turkey.co.uk<br />
www.go<strong>to</strong>turkey.co.uk<br />
opening hours:9.30-5.30Monday <strong>to</strong>Friday