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MAGAZINE OF THE MARCO POLO CLUB<br />

3<br />

QUARTER 2009<br />

24 HOURS IN<br />

MUMBAI<br />

<strong>FINE</strong> <strong>TUNES</strong><br />

TAILOR-MADE<br />

MUSIC


CONTENTS<br />

4 THE CLUB<br />

DEPARTMENTS<br />

06 MESSAGE FROM<br />

THE CLUB<br />

08 EXPLORE<br />

HONG KONG<br />

Dim-sum dining,<br />

ballet birthday,<br />

and various vintners<br />

12 EXPLORE<br />

THE WORLD<br />

Truffl e season, coral-free<br />

jewellery and The Met’s<br />

new American Wing<br />

14 WHAT’S ON<br />

Cartier in China,<br />

golf tournaments<br />

and The Proms<br />

16 CHOICE<br />

Some like coff ee,<br />

some like tea. We<br />

like all these things<br />

EDITORIAL ADVISORY BOARD<br />

Grace Poon Mun Wong Ella Young Mandy Chau<br />

The Club is published by <strong>Cathay</strong> Pacifi c Loyalty Programmes Ltd. (CPLP)<br />

<strong>Cathay</strong> Pacifi c – The Marco Polo Club, PO Box 1024, Tsuen Wan Post<br />

Offi ce, Hong Kong. Tel +852 2747 5500 Fax +852 2537 9900. No part<br />

of this magazine may be reproduced without the written permission<br />

of CPLP Ltd. All rights reserved. Copyright 2009 by CPLP Ltd. Opinions<br />

in The Club are the writers’ and not necessarily endorsed by CPLP Ltd.<br />

Manuscripts, photographs, drawings and other materials will not be<br />

returned unless they are accompanied by a self-addressed envelope<br />

and appropriate international postal coupons. The Club cannot be held<br />

responsible for unsolicited material.<br />

38<br />

30<br />

FEATURES ON THE WING<br />

18 BESPOKE<br />

Be a patron and<br />

commission some<br />

original music<br />

24 EXPERT ADVICE<br />

Watch collectors have<br />

a good time with their<br />

obsession<br />

30 24 HOURS<br />

Modern Mumbai<br />

– a blend of<br />

new and old<br />

38 TRAVEL<br />

Ho Chi Minh City<br />

adds a twist to<br />

traditional silk<br />

44 INSIDE CX<br />

Safety is embedded in<br />

<strong>Cathay</strong> Pacifi c’s culture<br />

48 CX NEWS<br />

The Marco Polo Golf<br />

Classic and news<br />

PUBLISHED BY ACP MAGAZINES ASIA LIMITED<br />

Unit 604-5, 6/F, 625 King’s Road, Quarry Bay, Hong Kong<br />

Tel +852 3921 7000 Fax +852 3921 7099<br />

Website www.acpmagazines.com.hk Email cathay@acpmagazines.com.hk<br />

Chief Executive Offi cer Julie Sherborn • Publishing Manager Alky Cheung • Editor in Chief William Fraser • Chief Sub Editor Andy Gilbert<br />

Sub Editors Ellen Wong, Yam Yim-lan, Wang Ko-huei, John Cramer, Ling Ka-wai • Art Director Shaun Horrocks • Designer Karen Chan<br />

Photo Editors Elisa Fu, Ester Wensing • Production Manager Jimmy Tse • Assistant Production Manager Chris Wong<br />

ADVERTISING ENQUIRES<br />

ASIAN IN-FLIGHT MEDIA LIMITED<br />

Managing Director Peter Jeff ery +852 2850 4013 peterjeff ery@asianmedia.com<br />

Hong Kong, Advertisement Director (<strong>Cathay</strong> Pacifi c) Teresa Ngai +852 3106 8133 teresa@asianmedia.com<br />

Printer: Paramount Printing Company Limited<br />

12<br />

Photos. Mumbai: Jon Arnold Images/ArgusPhoto. Cushions: Peter Stuckings


MESSAGE FROM THE CLUB<br />

6 THE CLUB<br />

New advances for members<br />

Katie Rowen, Manager The Marco Polo Club<br />

T<br />

he worst of the economic<br />

downturn, we hope, may be<br />

behind us. Many of you are<br />

now travelling a little more,<br />

which is why I would like to share some<br />

recent exciting developments with you.<br />

Members who fly to Kuala Lumpur<br />

regularly may have already visited the new<br />

<strong>Cathay</strong> <strong>Pacific</strong> First and Business Class<br />

Lounge at Kuala Lumpur International<br />

Airport, which opened in June. This is the<br />

12th lounge to be upgraded in a refurbishment<br />

plan involving 14 lounges worldwide.<br />

You can now enjoy the stylish and contemporary<br />

lounge which echoes the design of<br />

our flagship lounge in Hong Kong, The Pier.<br />

Our new Kuala Lumpur lounge is almost<br />

double the size of the previous one with a<br />

new location closer to our departure gates.<br />

Sample a seat at the signature Long Table<br />

or perhaps enjoy one of seven Personal<br />

Living Spaces with full broadband and<br />

Wi-Fi access. A variety of Western and Asian<br />

cuisine is available at the food and beverage<br />

counter so you can relax while waiting<br />

for your flight.<br />

I hope many of you will have already<br />

sampled onboard <strong>Cathay</strong> <strong>Pacific</strong> flights<br />

the dishes created by members of the<br />

National Culinary Team of the Hong Kong<br />

Chefs’ Association. This extraordinary team<br />

won gold and silver medals at the 22nd<br />

IKA International Culinary Olympics in<br />

Germany in October last year and was kind<br />

enough to create 60 dishes for us to feature<br />

on our First and Business Class menus.<br />

A selection of Western appetizers,<br />

entrees and desserts prepared by the<br />

team is available on all flights departing<br />

from Hong Kong – with the exception of<br />

flights bound for Taipei and Manila. Please<br />

look out for details on your menu card.<br />

Dragonair will launch a new service to<br />

Guangzhou, the provincial capital of<br />

Guangdong and the biggest city in the<br />

fast-growing Pearl River Delta region, on<br />

14 September. The twice-daily service will<br />

provide passengers travelling between<br />

Hong Kong and Guangzhou with<br />

improved connectivity via Hong Kong to<br />

the rest of the world by further enhancing<br />

connections between Hong Kong and the<br />

Pearl River Delta. We hope you will enjoy<br />

the convenience these flights offer.<br />

Many thanks for your continued support<br />

and we look forward to welcoming you<br />

onboard again soon.


EXPLORE<br />

HONG KONG<br />

Traditional treat<br />

The tradition of dim sum has<br />

evolved with the changing<br />

lifestyles of Cantonese people.<br />

In post-war Hong Kong, it was<br />

mostly breakfast. “Many people<br />

worked in factories then and<br />

they went to work early. The<br />

steamed buns were a must<br />

because they provided energy,”<br />

says Wong Kam-sing, who for<br />

the past three decades has<br />

made dim sum for 83-yearold<br />

Lin Heung Tea House in<br />

Central. Dim sum is seen now<br />

as a lunch food but it used to<br />

be available all day.<br />

Hong Kong Wine and<br />

Dine Festival<br />

30 October-1 November<br />

www.discoverhongkong.com<br />

Picture perfect<br />

Hong Kong photographer,<br />

author and publisher Edward<br />

Stokes believes the best way<br />

to advance conservation is to<br />

show how beautiful things are.<br />

His book, Hong Kong Nature<br />

Landscapes, is a retrospective of<br />

nature and landscape photographs<br />

from 1993 to 2003, a<br />

period of awakening interest in<br />

local nature and ecology.<br />

The Photographic Heritage<br />

Foundation, which published the<br />

book, aims to locate and identify<br />

historical images of Asia in archives<br />

and private collections, to revive<br />

their context and meaning, and to<br />

publish them with historical and<br />

contemporary texts in books, on<br />

websites and at exhibitions.<br />

The foundation has already<br />

produced Hong Kong As It Was,<br />

an English edition of Stokes’<br />

best-selling book Hedda<br />

Morrison’s Hong Kong: Photographs<br />

& Impressions 1946-47.<br />

All aboard<br />

Surrounded by water and with one of the world’s<br />

great harbours, Hong Kong is ideal for sailing.<br />

Even if you have never sailed, the Royal Hong<br />

Kong Yacht Club offers sailing courses to<br />

members and non-members, from beginners<br />

to high performance and advanced<br />

skills levels. Youth training courses are for<br />

sailors aged six to nine and nine to 17.<br />

www.rhkyc.org.hk<br />

Edward Stokes shows<br />

Hong Kong’s green side<br />

The Way Alone<br />

with Nobuo Fujino,<br />

William Lin and<br />

Wu Fei-fei<br />

Sail away!


Photos. Green Hong Kong: Edward Stokes.<br />

Sailing: Guy Nowell – Royal Hong Kong Yacht Club<br />

Classic poses<br />

Little Italy<br />

GVSTO means “savour” in Italian and the recently opened Italian<br />

eatery combines patisserie, wine and coffee bars and smart casual<br />

dining all under one roof. The emphasis is on fresh, natural<br />

ingredients. The concept was created by two Italian pastry chefs<br />

20 years ago and this is their first venture in Asia. Open for a<br />

morning espresso and breakfast buffet through to lunch,<br />

afternoon tea and gourmet dinner. Monday-Saturday, 8am-8pm.<br />

GVSTO Pasticceria Ristorante, 2/F, Nexxus Building,<br />

41 Connaught Road, Central, +852 2147 3768<br />

Hong Kong Ballet celebrates its 30th anniversary<br />

with major productions that demonstrate the<br />

breadth of its repertoire.<br />

In September, the company will perform Giselle<br />

in Beijing, and Romeo and Juliet in Hong Kong the<br />

following month. In November, Hong Kong will be<br />

treated to the triple bill Symphony of Movements,<br />

which includes The Way Alone, choreographed<br />

by Stephen Baynes.<br />

Apart from the classical repertoire, the company<br />

performs many 20th-century and contemporary<br />

works by choreographers such as George<br />

Balanchine, William Forsythe and Stephen<br />

Mills. The company has 43 dancers from<br />

nine countries, including a strong core of<br />

Chinese artists, and has toured extensively<br />

since 1997.<br />

+852 2105 9724, www.hkballet.com<br />

Savour a taste of<br />

Italy at GVSTO<br />

High standards at<br />

The Upper House<br />

Upper class<br />

Feel like a stroll on the lawns of<br />

your hotel? Then take the lift to<br />

the sixth fl oor.<br />

Check out the sky lounge?<br />

Head on up to the 49th fl oor.<br />

Want to soak in a deep tub<br />

with panoramic views? Check<br />

into any of the rooms at<br />

The Upper House, the 117-room<br />

Swire hotel that opens in Pacifi c<br />

Place, Admiralty, this autumn.<br />

Hong Kong architect Andre Fu<br />

of design studio AFSO has used<br />

natural materials throughout and<br />

the proliferation of sculpture and<br />

artwork is reminiscent of the fi rst<br />

Swire hotel, The Opposite House<br />

in Beijing.<br />

Celebrated chef Gray Kunz<br />

has returned to Hong Kong to<br />

oversee Café Gray Deluxe, a<br />

21st-century “grand café” on<br />

the 49th fl oor overlooking<br />

Victoria Harbour.<br />

www.upperhouse.com<br />

THE CLUB<br />

9


EXPLORE<br />

10 THE CLUB<br />

Passion’s fruit<br />

When Swiss-born businessman<br />

Bertrand Faure-Beaulieu met<br />

sommelier Philippe Messy in<br />

Marco Pierre White’s London<br />

restaurant, it was the beginning<br />

of a relationship that Hong Kong<br />

wine lovers can now share.<br />

Messy expanded Faure-<br />

Beaulieu’s tastes and knowledge<br />

of wine and, 10 years later, this<br />

shared passion fl owered into<br />

Sarment, a private sommelier<br />

service that matches individual<br />

members to sommeliers whose<br />

personality and approach to<br />

wine complements their own<br />

tastes. The sommeliers advise<br />

on all aspects of wine buying,<br />

tasting, education, storage<br />

and investment.<br />

One of the sommeliers is<br />

Sebastien Chevalier, who<br />

created the wine cellar for<br />

Sebastien Chevalier<br />

Amber, the two-Michelin-starred<br />

restaurant in The Landmark<br />

Mandarin Oriental, Hong Kong.<br />

www.sarmentwine.com<br />

Top drop spots<br />

Since import duties and taxes<br />

on wine were abolished last<br />

year, Hong Kong has established<br />

itself as a top fi ne-winetrading<br />

hub. Here’s where to<br />

start your wine collection.<br />

Berry Bros. & Rudd<br />

Britain’s oldest wine and spirit<br />

merchant, Berry Bros. & Rudd<br />

arrived in Hong Kong more<br />

than a decade ago and opened<br />

its shop in Lee Gardens in 2003.<br />

The company’s traditional<br />

strength is Old World wines.<br />

www.bbr.com.hk<br />

Farr Vintners<br />

The largest trader of fi ne wine<br />

in Britain and of Cru Classé red<br />

Bordeaux, Farr has a wholesale<br />

business in Hong Kong and<br />

also services serious collectors<br />

buying wines by the case.<br />

Specialties include red Bordeaux<br />

and wine from Burgundy, Rhone<br />

and Champagne.<br />

www.farrvintners.com<br />

Ponti Wine Cellars<br />

Established in 1988, Ponti<br />

Wine Cellars now has four<br />

shops in Hong Kong and one<br />

in Singapore. The stores carry<br />

vintages from all key wineproducing<br />

countries, and<br />

about 40 percent are directly<br />

imported from wineries.<br />

www.ponti-fwc.com<br />

Berry Bros. & Rudd in<br />

Hong Kong<br />

Rare and Fine Wines<br />

The company has more than<br />

1,000 wines and specialises in<br />

France, particularly Bordeaux<br />

and Burgundy. Australia, New<br />

Zealand, South Africa and California<br />

are also well represented.<br />

www.rarenfi newines.com.hk<br />

Watson’s Wine Cellar<br />

With 14 wine stores across<br />

Hong Kong and online shopping,<br />

Watson’s is the territory’s<br />

most visible wine merchant. Its<br />

list includes more than 2,000<br />

wines, more than 400 of which<br />

are exclusive. Each store has its<br />

own fine-wine room with more<br />

than 300 vintages, from the top<br />

chateaux in Bordeaux to those<br />

from the New World.<br />

www.watsonswine.com<br />

Photos. Berry Bros. & Rudd: Grischa Rueschendorf


EXPLORE<br />

THE WORLD<br />

12 THE CLUB<br />

Buried treasure<br />

Autumn is truffle season in Italy<br />

and in October and November<br />

truffle fairs show the trophies<br />

sniffed out by trained dogs and<br />

the local truffle hunters.<br />

Almost every restaurant will<br />

have truffles on the menu in<br />

some form. Alba in Piedemonte<br />

is famous for its white truffles.<br />

The International White Truffle<br />

Fair of Alba will be held from<br />

3 October to 8 November.<br />

The countryside around San<br />

Miniato in Tuscany produces<br />

about 25 percent of Italy’s<br />

truffles. The San Miniato White<br />

Truffle Fair is held in the last<br />

three weeks of November.<br />

Smaller towns nearby hold fairs<br />

in October.<br />

Other truffl e areas include the<br />

Marche and Umbria regions.<br />

www.fi eradeltartufo.org/en<br />

www.san-miniato.com<br />

Italy’s<br />

white<br />

gold<br />

Tropical paradise<br />

Imagine a candle-lit banquet<br />

where the rainforest meets the<br />

sea in the far north of Australia.<br />

In a pocket of tropical rainforest<br />

near Port Douglas, north<br />

of Cairns, Flames of the Forest<br />

combines fi ne food and wine,<br />

aboriginal culture and a unique<br />

natural setting.<br />

Illuminated by hundreds of<br />

candles and chandeliers as well<br />

as theatrically lit forest, diners<br />

are entertained by members of<br />

local aboriginal tribes.<br />

www.fl amesoftheforest.com.au<br />

Handel’s<br />

baroque suite<br />

Aboriginal tales in<br />

Flames of the Forest<br />

Handel with care<br />

George Frideric Handel was born in Germany but spent most of his<br />

life in England. From 1723 until his death in 1759 he lived at 25 Brook<br />

Street, Mayfair, London, in what is now Handel House, the museum<br />

devoted to him and where he composed works such as Music for the<br />

Royal Fireworks. This year is the 250th anniversary of Handel’s death.<br />

www.handelhouse.org


Court in the act:<br />

the Met’s new<br />

American Wing<br />

American<br />

beauties<br />

The new American Wing at<br />

The Metropolitan Museum<br />

of Art in New York City has<br />

opened after two years of<br />

renovation. The Charles<br />

Engelhard Court is a massive<br />

glassed pavilion that houses<br />

American furniture and<br />

architectural details as well as<br />

jewellery and decorative arts<br />

that span from the baroque<br />

era of the 17th century to the<br />

early 20th century.<br />

The space is so enormous<br />

that features such as a loggia<br />

designed by Louis Comfort<br />

Tiff any, monumental sculptures,<br />

fountains and Frank<br />

Lloyd Wright stained glass<br />

windows can all be displayed.<br />

The 20 period rooms demonstrate<br />

domestic architecture<br />

and interior design of every<br />

era from the 17th to the 20th<br />

century. Twelve of the rooms<br />

have been renovated and<br />

interactive computer screens<br />

explain the details.<br />

www.metmuseum.org<br />

Photos. Truffle: Alessandro Garofalo – Reuters<br />

Shining examples<br />

Coral has long been a favourite<br />

material of jewellers, but it’s not<br />

a rock – it’s the external skeleton<br />

of living organisms. It provides<br />

food and shelter for fi sh and its<br />

continued existence is vital to<br />

healthy oceans.<br />

Too Precious to Wear is a<br />

campaign organised by nonprofi<br />

t group SeaWeb which<br />

works with infl uential fashion<br />

and design leaders to raise<br />

awareness about coral and<br />

to encourage consumers to<br />

keep it in the ocean. Tiff any &<br />

Co. stopped using red coral in<br />

jewellery some time ago as part<br />

Coral-free brooch<br />

by Paloma Picasso<br />

of its commitment to obtaining<br />

precious metals and stones in<br />

environmentally and socially<br />

responsible ways.<br />

The Coral Reinterpreted collection<br />

has examples of alternative<br />

materials such as lacquered metal,<br />

glass, resin and plastics.<br />

tooprecioustowear.org<br />

World at your feet<br />

Enjoy the high life at new chic restaurant ZENSE Gourmet Deck &<br />

Lounge Panorama in Bangkok. On the 17th fl oor of new entertainment<br />

and lifestyle mecca ZEN World, it has a giant outdoor terrace with<br />

spectacular panoramic views of downtown Bangkok.<br />

www.zensebangkok.com<br />

Point of view<br />

THE CLUB<br />

13


WHAT’S ON<br />

AUTUMN<br />

EVENTS<br />

14 THE CLUB<br />

Singalong:<br />

Last Night<br />

of the Proms<br />

AUGUST<br />

21-30 August<br />

Melbourne Writers’<br />

Festival<br />

Melbourne<br />

Hear Bernard Schlink,<br />

author of The Reader,<br />

novelist and Asia commentator<br />

Ian Buruma,<br />

historian Anthony<br />

Beevor and hundreds<br />

of other writers at<br />

Melbourne’s biggest<br />

literary event.<br />

www.mwf.com.au<br />

25-30 August<br />

Yonex Open<br />

Chinese Taipei 2009<br />

Taipei<br />

Highlight of the Taipei<br />

badminton calendar.<br />

www.international<br />

badminton.org<br />

SEPTEMBER<br />

5 September-<br />

7 February 2010<br />

Silk and Bamboo:<br />

Music and Art of China<br />

Metropolitan Museum<br />

of Art, New York City<br />

Instruments and art<br />

show the continuing<br />

importance of music<br />

in Chinese culture.<br />

www.metmuseum.org<br />

12 September<br />

Last Night of the Proms<br />

Royal Albert Hall,<br />

London<br />

Pomp and Circumstance<br />

and other great tunes.<br />

www.bbc.co.uk/proms/2009<br />

5 September-22 November<br />

Cartier Treasures: King of<br />

Jewellers, Jewellers to Kings<br />

Beijing Palace Museum, Forbidden City, Beijing<br />

Big jewels, lots of them: 346 individual pieces from<br />

Cartier – jeweller to the rich and historically famous.<br />

About a quarter of the show traces the Chinese<br />

infl uence on design and choice of materials.<br />

www.cartier.com/en<br />

Tempting treasure:<br />

Snake necklace,<br />

1968, by Cartier<br />

Photos. Maharaja: V & A Images. BBC Proms: Mark Allan – WireImage/Getty Images.<br />

Sergio Garcia: Qilai Shen – epa/Corbis.


18 September-<br />

4 January 2010<br />

Titian, Tintoretto,<br />

Veronese: Rivals in<br />

Renaissance Venice<br />

Musée du Louvre,<br />

Paris<br />

Masterpieces from old<br />

master painters.<br />

www.louvre.fr<br />

18-22 September<br />

Lakmé Fashion Week<br />

Spring Summer 2010<br />

Grand Hyatt,<br />

Mumbai<br />

Indian plumage on<br />

display at the 10th-<br />

anniversary parades.<br />

www.lakmefashion<br />

week. co.in<br />

Procession of Raja Ram Singh II at the V&A’s<br />

Maharaja exhibition<br />

26 September-<br />

3 January 2010<br />

Edward Steichen:<br />

In High Fashion, the<br />

Condé Nast Years,<br />

1923-1937<br />

Art Gallery of Ontario,<br />

Toronto<br />

When glamour fashion<br />

photography was black<br />

and white.<br />

www.ago.net<br />

OCTOBER<br />

8-16 October<br />

Pusan International<br />

Film Festival<br />

South Korea<br />

Asia’s most signifi cant<br />

fi lm festival and launch<br />

pad for many Asian<br />

movie careers.<br />

www.piff .org<br />

10 October-<br />

17 January 2010<br />

Maharaja: The<br />

Splendour of<br />

India’s Royal Courts<br />

Victoria and Albert<br />

Museum, London<br />

The dazzling treasures<br />

of princely India from<br />

the Mughal Empire’s<br />

collapse in the early<br />

18th century to 1947.<br />

www.vam.ac.uk<br />

GOLFING EVENTS<br />

NOVEMBER<br />

4-6 November<br />

Hong Kong<br />

International Wine<br />

& Spirits Fair<br />

Hong Kong Convention<br />

and Exhibition Centre,<br />

Wan Chai, Hong Kong<br />

Asia’s wine hub on show.<br />

http://hkwinefair.hktdc.com<br />

9-15 November<br />

Yonex-Sunrise<br />

Hong Kong Open<br />

Badminton Super<br />

Series 2009<br />

Queen Elizabeth Stadium,<br />

Wan Chai, Hong Kong<br />

Feathers fly at the year’s<br />

big badminton event.<br />

www.hkbadmintonassn.<br />

org.hk/en<br />

Sergio Garcia,<br />

winner of the<br />

2008 World Golf<br />

Championships-<br />

HSBC Champions<br />

24-27 September: Qingdao Golf Open Qingdao Huashan Golf & Resort, Qingdao.<br />

www.europeantour.com<br />

23-25 October: China LPGA (venue to be announced). www.lpga.com<br />

29 October-1 November: Barclays Singapore Open Sentosa Golf Club,<br />

Sentosa, Singapore. www.barclayssingaporeopen.com<br />

30 October-1 November: Suzhou Taihu Ladies Open Suzhou Taihu International Golf<br />

Club, Shanghai. www.ladieseuropeantour.com<br />

5-8 November: World Golf Championships-HSBC Champions Sheshan International<br />

Golf Club, Shanghai. www.hsbcgolf.com<br />

12-15 November: UBS Hong Kong Open Hong Kong Golf Club, Sheung Shui,<br />

New Terrritories, Hong Kong. www.ubshongkongopen.com<br />

6-8 November: The Marco Polo Club Golf Classic 2009. Please see page 48 for details.<br />

THE CLUB<br />

15


CHOICE<br />

CREATIVE BLENDS<br />

Tea and coffee have been so integrated into cultures around the world<br />

that specific ceremonies evolved with implements created by artists<br />

and craftsmen. Contemporary designers continue the long tradition.<br />

16 THE CLUB<br />

Transparent tea<br />

The glass and stainless-steel<br />

mono classic teapot and infuser<br />

was created for mono in 1983 by<br />

German homeware designer<br />

Tassilo von Grolman.<br />

www.mono.de<br />

White with one, thanks<br />

In pure white at room temperature, put the one tea<br />

kettle on the stove (gas or electric) and see the blue<br />

pattern emerge as the water heats up. Grasp by the<br />

insulated neck, place on the magnetic trivet and<br />

it’s ready to pour or set down on any surface.<br />

www.vesselideation.com/one.html<br />

Bark opus<br />

Burnished bark of the cherry<br />

tree is used in this Japanese<br />

tea canister, which is so finely<br />

made that it’s air-tight to<br />

preserve the tea.<br />

www.teavana.com/Tea-Products/<br />

Tea-Storage-Tins/<br />

Short black<br />

Be a barista at home with the<br />

Krups XP4020-Expert pump<br />

espresso coffee-maker. This<br />

domestic model scores well<br />

on the quality of espresso<br />

made and ease of use.<br />

www.krups.co.uk<br />

Photos: Yixing teapot: Phototime


Froth and bubble<br />

Want to create the perfect<br />

cappuccino froth at home? Try<br />

the Bodum Mousse Electric Milk<br />

Frother to add volume and panache<br />

to your coffee-press cuppa.<br />

www.bodumusa.com<br />

The colour purple<br />

The purple clay from Yixing in Jiangsu Province is made into unglazed<br />

pots that are sought after by connoisseurs of fine Chinese tea.<br />

www.teapot-collection.com<br />

With a twist<br />

WALO1 is a set of mirror<br />

stainless-steel coffee spoons by<br />

English architect and designer<br />

William Alsop for Italian homeware<br />

brand Officina Alessi.<br />

www.alessi.com/en<br />

Living legend<br />

The Sultane is one of a range of hand-blown glass teapots from legendary<br />

French tea merchant Mariage Frères, whose origins can be traced to the<br />

17th century. The shop in the Marais district of Paris is a shrine for tea<br />

lovers and embodies a museum. www.mariagefreres.com<br />

THE CLUB<br />

17


BESPOKE<br />

18 THE CLUB<br />

Commissioned work has<br />

been the lifeblood of<br />

The Hong Kong Chinese<br />

Orchestra for decades<br />

Fine tunes<br />

B Y A N D R E A L I<br />

Individuals are increasingly commissioning music to mark special occasions<br />

ong Kong-born composer Lam<br />

Fung, at the age of 27, was one of<br />

the youngest Chinese composers<br />

to be commissioned by the BBC. His<br />

piece, Unlocking, took inspiration<br />

from an exhibition of padlocks he<br />

saw at London’s Victoria and Albert<br />

Museum, and explored themes<br />

of codes, secrets and locks. Lam<br />

is one of the relatively few Asian<br />

composers who have worked with<br />

individuals who commission music.<br />

“I personally always welcome talking to my commissioners<br />

before I start working on the music as more often than not I fi nd<br />

inspiration from them, be it the reasons behind the commission<br />

or from their own interests or background,” Lam says.<br />

Although Hong Kong has seen funding cuts to the arts,<br />

private contribution to new music remains largely elusive.<br />

Private commissions are very unusual, says Timothy Calnin,<br />

the retiring Chief Executive of the Hong Kong Philharmonic<br />

Orchestra (HKPO). “I can only think of two instances in the<br />

past fi ve years. People just aren’t aware that this is something<br />

they can do, but I think it will take off with time.” In 2009, the<br />

HKPO launched a three-year commissioning programme to<br />

attract funding from foundations and individuals.<br />

Even the Hong Kong Chinese Orchestra (HKCO), an active<br />

underwriter of new works, says none of its commissions has<br />

been funded by private individuals. “Private contributions are<br />

usually made towards individual concerts or education and<br />

research. It would be great if we had sponsorship specifi cally for<br />

new works,” says Celina Chin, the orchestra’s Executive Director,<br />

adding that commissioning has been the orchestra’s lifeblood<br />

for several decades. Unlike Western classical music, Chinese<br />

orchestral music only has a 50- to 60-year history. However, the<br />

HKCO commissions more than 10 pieces of new music and<br />

re-arranges more than 30 works each year.<br />

“The philosophy of commissioning is very important,” says<br />

the HKPO’s Calnin. “It is necessary in order to keep the art form<br />

contemporary and relevant. Otherwise orchestras will just be<br />

playing the music of dead white guys all the time.”<br />

When she was relatively young and unknown, Hong<br />

Kong-born composer Angel Lam began to work with New<br />

York City’s famous Carnegie Hall. Clive Gillinson, Carnegie<br />

Hall’s Executive and Artistic Director, says the hall has used


THE CLUB<br />

19


BESPOKE<br />

20 THE CLUB<br />

commissioning to tap new and established talent. Lam’s<br />

second commission for Carnegie Hall, Awakening from a<br />

Disappearing Garden, will premier at its festival of Chinese<br />

culture, Ancient Paths, Modern Voices, from 21 October to<br />

10 November.<br />

Individual commissions have gained growing popularity in<br />

Europe, Australia and the United States over the past decade<br />

as classical-music enthusiasts catch on to the concept.<br />

When Australians Jenny Kena and her former partner<br />

Colin Gray made money on several property deals, they<br />

could have splashed out on any number of luxuries. But the<br />

couple instead chose to commission Oma Kodu, an Estoniainspired<br />

clarinet quintet.<br />

“This was an opportunity to support a diff erent branch<br />

of the arts and was something that would last forever,”<br />

CARNEGIE HALL USED COMMISSIONING<br />

TO TAP NEW AND ESTABLISHED TALENT<br />

says Kena, whose father was Estonian. “To me, the experience<br />

was value for money. I got so much back from it. It is a gratifying<br />

feeling to know that this music wouldn’t be in existence if<br />

it weren’t for me. Not only that, it can now be appreciated by<br />

a wider group of people and can add to the body of work in<br />

Australian music.”<br />

It takes a special type of person to commission music, says<br />

Richard Gill, the Music Director of Australia’s Victorian Opera.<br />

“It is unlike anything else. The result is not tangible so it<br />

requires people to think outside the box. A typical patron is well<br />

educated, appreciates the artistic life and values the importance<br />

of the arts to the life of the community. You are sponsoring<br />

immortality. It just doesn’t get any better than that.”<br />

In growing numbers, individuals are commissioning music<br />

for celebratory reasons – a wedding anniversary milestone,<br />

Angel Lam<br />

(left) was<br />

commissioned<br />

to write a piece<br />

for Carnegie<br />

Hall (above)


Lam Fung<br />

(below) is<br />

inspired by<br />

those who<br />

commission<br />

him to write<br />

a spouse’s 60th birthday, in memory of a beloved family<br />

member and as a gesture of philanthropy.<br />

Geoff Ainsworth, a professional investor in Sydney, who<br />

has underwritten new music in Australia since 2001, says he<br />

is driven by the excitement of contributing to the existing<br />

repertoire. “The gratifi cation comes from knowing you have<br />

done a good thing for music and society. We don’t know<br />

who the next great composer is, but the only way to fi nd out<br />

is to give composers the opportunity to compose.” In 2004,<br />

Ainsworth and his wife Vicki commissioned String Quartet<br />

No. 4, a 15-minute string quartet from Musica Viva Australia<br />

in celebration of composer Carl Vine’s birthday, with support<br />

from the Melbourne-based Ian Potter Foundation.<br />

Private patronage is, of course, not new. Prior to the accessibility<br />

of public funds, composers such as Mozart, Beethoven<br />

and Bach depended on the generosity of the aristocracy.<br />

Today, with tightened government budgets and a growing<br />

stable of talent, private money is once again in the limelight,<br />

becoming ever pivotal to the development of new music.<br />

“My impression is that a great deal of commissioning<br />

once done by the Australian government has diminished,”<br />

says Vine, Artistic Director of Musica Viva, an organisation<br />

that helps individuals with the commissioning process. “This<br />

has resulted in the importance of private patrons.”<br />

Similar instances are unfolding elsewhere. Ed Harsh is<br />

the President of Meet the Composer, a New York-based<br />

organisation that champions new music. He says half of all<br />

its support for commissions in the past eight years has been<br />

funded by individuals. Past patrons have included a venture<br />

capitalist, a doctor and a university professor. Commissioning<br />

clubs are also sprouting up throughout the US, galvanising<br />

individuals to bankroll pieces of work, en masse, and<br />

making patronage accessible and aff ordable. Meet the<br />

Composer is now looking at the feasibility of taking the<br />

commissioning club model online by establishing a website<br />

of new projects (www.meetthecomposer.org) for anyone<br />

to browse and sponsor.<br />

Selecting a composer is only half the story. Australian<br />

Andrew Ford says the composer and patron need to identify<br />

the performers for the piece upfront otherwise the commission<br />

will just remain musical notes on a page.<br />

“Knowing who the performer is also helps me to write,” says<br />

Ford, who composed Oma Kodu. “A private commission is a<br />

lovely experience for the composer. The endeavour is more<br />

personal and genuine. It’s nice to know the person paying for<br />

your work is also a fan of your music.”<br />

Or at least they should be. Identifying a composer can be<br />

an exhaustive process. The search requires the patron to be<br />

familiar with the work of the composer and to ensure some<br />

level of compatibility with the individual. The framework of<br />

“WHEN PEOPLE COMMISSION ME,<br />

THEY TRUST MY ARTISTIC SENSE”<br />

Photo. Andrew Ford and music sheet: Steve Baccon – Contacts Photography. Carnegie Hall (previous page): Jeff Goldberg-Esto


“IT’S NICE TO KNOW<br />

THE PERSON PAYING<br />

FOR YOUR WORK IS A<br />

FAN OF YOUR MUSIC”<br />

the piece, involving issues such as instrumentation, budget<br />

and theme, is then worked out.<br />

Commissioning fees are largely arbitrary and depend on<br />

the composer’s reputation and the scale of work. The ballpark<br />

range in Australia is somewhere between AUD2,000<br />

(about HKD12,300) to AUD40,000 while costs in the US span<br />

from USD1,700 to USD400,000 for a full-length opera.<br />

“We tell patrons that they are never commissioning the<br />

composer’s last piece, but always their next piece so there<br />

is a certain element of risk involved,” says Harsh. “At the end<br />

of the day it is the composer’s responsibility to fi nd their<br />

own comfort level and make the decision to turn down the<br />

project if they feel their style is being encroached upon.”<br />

Instances of projects going awry are few and far between.<br />

Patrons generally respect commissioning etiquette and have<br />

a good grasp of what the composer can and cannot do.<br />

Lam Fung says: “When people commission me, they<br />

trust my artistic sense. They would not be requesting me<br />

to compose something that sounds like someone else, but<br />

rather they would prefer me to take inspiration from them<br />

and supply them with something exciting and surprising.<br />

What’s the fun if you know exactly what you’re going to get<br />

when you’re commissioning an artist? Part of the excitement<br />

about commissioning a new piece of music is the<br />

fact that you don’t know what exactly you are getting.”<br />

For Ainsworth, his personal opinion is not relevant. “It<br />

doesn’t matter whether or not I like the piece,” he says. ‘‘I know<br />

Making notes:<br />

Australian<br />

composer<br />

Andrew Ford<br />

writes scores<br />

by hand<br />

(above left)<br />

I will still appreciate the music and it will still be something fresh<br />

to my ear. Most important is the motivation behind my commission.<br />

I am not funding the composer to write something I<br />

like, but want to play a role in contributing to new music.”<br />

Artistic directors who commission on a broader scale<br />

agree. “The risk of commissioning is such that you have<br />

no idea whether the work will be disappointing or utterly<br />

exhilarating,” says Carnegie Hall’s Gillinson.<br />

“But if you look at the music of any composer, the reality is,<br />

even music that’s less good is almost always worth hearing.<br />

Chances are you are still getting something important. It’s<br />

just a question of how important.”<br />

BESPOKE<br />

THE CLUB<br />

23


EXPERT ADVICE<br />

IN


BY TARA JENKINS & KAREN PITTAR<br />

GOOD TIME<br />

Step by step:<br />

Gordon Chung has<br />

been collecting<br />

watches for 18 years<br />

The thrill is in the chase for passionate watch collectors who enjoy<br />

spending quality time tracking down rare models<br />

The pride of international marketer Andrew<br />

McDonald’s sizeable watch collection is a<br />

1963 Glycine Airman 24-hour watch. “It still<br />

has its original box with a letter from its<br />

owner inside, a United States Air Force pilot,<br />

stating he wore it on 280 fl ight missions in<br />

his F-4 in Vietnam. He was shot down over<br />

the Gulf of Tonkin and safely ejected wearing this very watch.”<br />

For countless watch fans the world over, fi nding a special<br />

piece like McDonald’s has more to do with the thrill of the<br />

chase and owning a rare piece than the monetary value of<br />

the watch. It’s a passion, for some an obsession.<br />

Hong Kong-based collector Gordon Chung says he<br />

looks for unusual pieces, shapes and mechanics, rather<br />

than buying particular brand names. “It’s my hobby. It’s<br />

what I do at the weekend. Finding a special watch is like<br />

winning a prize; it’s very satisfying. I like the complications, the<br />

mechanics and, of course, the history. I like to read about the<br />

era of the watch, how people were dressed at that time and<br />

how they’d wear their watches. A lot of watches have engravings<br />

on the back with people’s names and sometimes even<br />

addresses. It’s like holding a piece of history in your hand.”<br />

One of his favourite pieces is a 200-year-old double-cased<br />

pocket watch he bought in London. The piece is silver and<br />

opens up to reveal an intricately carved and decorative inner<br />

gold mechanism. When Chung fi rst prised open the back of<br />

the watch, a lock of golden hair fell into his hand. “The hair was<br />

cradled by part of a newspaper from the 1800s. At that time it<br />

was very common to put your relative’s hair inside your watch<br />

for good luck.”<br />

Chung’s zeal for watch collecting began 18 years ago when<br />

he was working for an advertising agency which held the Gérald<br />

Genta account. “One day I was asked to take a watch to be<br />

photographed. As I put it in my inside jacket pocket I casually<br />

asked how much it was worth. I was shocked to discover it<br />

was the equivalent of my annual salary. I held my hand over<br />

my jacket pocket for the entire taxi ride – I’m sure the driver<br />

thought I was having a heart attack.”<br />

Today Chung has a collection of more than 100 watches –<br />

each meticulously maintained and lovingly stored in a suedelined<br />

leather box – and he’s one of a growing band of watch<br />

afi cionados in Asia. “There is huge growth in collecting,” says<br />

Tim Bourne, International Co-Head of Christie’s watch department.<br />

“Numbers have gone up in such a dramatic way from 1990<br />

when watches were just starting to become a signifi cant global<br />

collecting area. Now there are buyers participating in auctions<br />

THE CLUB<br />

25


EXPERT ADVICE<br />

Gordon Chung<br />

began his collection<br />

with this pocket<br />

watch featuring i<br />

an inscription dated<br />

Christmas Day, 1901<br />

26 THE CLUB<br />

“NAMES SSUCH<br />

AS ROLEX,<br />

CARTIER AND<br />

PATEK PHILIPPE<br />

RU RULE THE ROOST”<br />

watch<br />

pocket except Ltd., Images Christie's Photos.<br />

on the phone, phone, “Some of the rarer ra and most fascinating pieces were<br />

on the Internet customised, uniq unique models. For example, Patek Philippe<br />

– it’s like a huge deal-<br />

may have made four f or fi ve pieces for a very special client<br />

ing room around the world.<br />

who perhaps requested req something in steel, or a perpetual<br />

Within Christie’s alone we were<br />

calendar, somethin something that wasn’t part of the normal collection.”<br />

probably seeing an annual turnover 10 years ago of It is these pieces that command some of the highest prices<br />

USD10 million, but last year we saw annual sales of at auction.<br />

USD80 million – an 800 percent increase. The past<br />

McDonald has a list of classic watches he hopes to add<br />

10 years have been very significant in Asia. It is almost<br />

to his collection,<br />

and regularly buys from auction houses,<br />

becoming the most important venue for watch sales Internet sites and specialist watch sellers. “Each week I search<br />

and Asian collectors themselves are not only buying in through through websites website and I look at new and pre-owned watch<br />

Asia but are having a huge impact on international sales.”<br />

shops shops wherever I travel. I bought my daughter a Jaeger-<br />

Bourne says you don’t need to be wealthy to collect,<br />

LeCoultre Reverso Revers for her 21st birthday but I still don’t have<br />

although there are those who are intent on buying only the<br />

one myself. I would wo also like a Patek Philippe 1940s Calatrava,<br />

big names. “Names such as Rolex, Cartier C i and d Patek Philippe Rolex Explorer 1016, 10 IWC Ingenieur, Cartier Tank, Grand Seiko<br />

really do rule the roost at the high end of the market. We manual wind with Dauphine hands and no date. In all<br />

pretty regularly sell examples of Patek Philippe watches honesty, the list goes on and on.”<br />

for more than USD1 million. Obviously when somebody is Hong Kong businessman Dickson Wong has about 30<br />

paying a huge amount of money the rarity of a particular watches in his collection, including pieces by Patek Philippe,<br />

piece is paramount – the model, a certain design, very Audemars Piguet, Vacheron Constantin, Rolex and Piaget. “My<br />

unique pieces or a small production run is very desirable favourite is the Patek Philippe 5050 Perpetual Calendar which<br />

to collectors.”<br />

I bought some eight years ago for HKD300,000,” he says. “I like<br />

Bourne explains that with modern watches the more watches with grand complications [more than three functions].<br />

complicated and grander the watch, the higher the value, They are very difficult to make and the craftsmanship is<br />

but with vintage it comes down to rarity and uniqueness. extremely detailed. A dealer told me it takes many man-hours<br />

and photos previous page: Marcus Oleniuk


Christie’s<br />

Tim Bourne<br />

(right) has<br />

seen dramatic<br />

growth in the<br />

watch market<br />

to make a Patek Philippe, and the craftsmen’s wages increase<br />

year after year, so the value of such a watch increases accordingly.<br />

You will never lose your money on a rare watch. Patek<br />

Philippe only makes a few models and discontinues them after<br />

a few years, so the only place to buy them is at auction. As a<br />

collector, it makes sense to go out and buy the watches you<br />

think are going to be discontinued.”<br />

Although Wong invests in high-end pieces, there is also<br />

a sentimental side to his collecting because he grew up<br />

surrounded by watches: his father was Hong Kong’s sole agent for<br />

Longines for more than 20 years. “The fi rst watch I owned<br />

was a Longines, given to me by my father 30 years ago<br />

when I went to the US to study. Of course I still have<br />

the watch. I bought my fi rst piece in Tallinn, Estonia.<br />

I was on holiday and walked into an antique<br />

shop and found an H. Moser & Cie with an enamel face and<br />

gold cover. When it chimes it plays music; I guess it’s between<br />

50 and 100 years old. Now I buy watches all over the world<br />

including Hong Kong, London and Switzerland. Whenever I<br />

travel I’m on the lookout for special pieces.”<br />

Wong and Chung belong to Hong Kong collectors’ club<br />

The Art of Time, run by the Federation of the Swiss Watch<br />

Industry. Chung says the members are watch lovers who want<br />

to share their passion and look at each other’s collections.<br />

“We’re like a community,” he says.<br />

Wong agrees: “We have meetings once every two months,<br />

and a speaker – such as a watch producer from Europe – comes<br />

and gives us a sneak preview, sometimes even before the watch<br />

has come onto the market. It’s a great venue to be able to meet<br />

and speak to other watch collectors.”<br />

A rare 14K gold<br />

chronograph<br />

Rolex (left), sold<br />

at Christie’s for<br />

HKD787,500 in<br />

2007. A white-gold<br />

bracelet watch with<br />

340 diamonds<br />

(far left) by Patek<br />

Philippe, sold for<br />

HKD1,220,000 in<br />

May this year<br />

Vacheron<br />

Constantin’s<br />

Malte Tonneau<br />

openwork<br />

tourbillon,<br />

changed<br />

hands for<br />

HKD884,000<br />

in May


EXPERT ADVICE<br />

28 THE CLUB<br />

Oiseaux des<br />

Blés gilded<br />

brass table<br />

clock sold for<br />

HKD1,040,000<br />

at Christie’s<br />

in May, a<br />

world auction<br />

record for a<br />

Patek Philippe<br />

dome clock<br />

<strong>FINE</strong> DETAILS<br />

Serious collectors inevitably face expenses when it<br />

comes to the storage, maintenance and insurance of<br />

watches, especially with antique or old pieces.<br />

“If people spend a huge amount of money on a<br />

watch collection, they should defi nitely insure it,” says<br />

Tim Bourne, International Co-Head of Christie’s watch<br />

department. “It’s dramatic how much collectors will<br />

actually spend on watches. I’ve met people who have<br />

spent in excess of USD10 million on a watch. They<br />

must be regarded as works of art and treated<br />

as such. If you want to keep the value of<br />

the watch intact, store it in its original<br />

bag or box, although often people<br />

are torn because they want to wear<br />

it. But there are some collectors<br />

who don’t even dare to open the<br />

box, in case the piece loses value.”<br />

Bourne says watches are not like<br />

wine and can withstand fl uctuations<br />

in temperature and humidity.<br />

Watch afi cionado Dickson Wong<br />

keeps the majority of his collection<br />

in a safe-deposit box at a bank. “I<br />

do keep some at home to wear<br />

and I have them all serviced maybe<br />

once every two years,” he says.<br />

A pink gold automatic skeletonised<br />

tourbillion by Cartier, one of a<br />

limited edition of 25, sold for<br />

HKD740,000 last year<br />

When collector Gordon Chung buys an antique or<br />

second-hand watch, he has it serviced immediately.<br />

“If after a week it doesn’t work I take it back to where I<br />

bought it. I like my watches to be clean and shiny. Some<br />

people prefer their watches to look old, but I like mine to<br />

look new. I take them to be gold-plated so I can restore<br />

them to their original condition. When you buy a watch,<br />

always try to buy it in its original case because it boosts<br />

the value.”<br />

To keep the cost of maintenance to a minimum,<br />

Chung suggests thoroughly examining a watch before<br />

handing over your money. “When you fi nd an antique<br />

watch, check the time and lay it down on the shop<br />

counter. Wait for half an hour, check to ensure the time<br />

is correct and then turn it over. Again, wait half an hour<br />

and see is it fast or slow. If it is slow on both sides, or<br />

fast on both sides, it’s probably easy to fi x. If it’s slow,<br />

for example, it means the lubricant has become old and<br />

viscous, which slows down the watch. But if it’s slow on<br />

one side and fast on the other, you’re in trouble – don’t<br />

buy it!”<br />

Chung suggests shopping for watches at antiques<br />

markets and shops, rather than buying directly from a<br />

dealer. His fi nal piece of advice is practical: “I always carry<br />

a special Swiss Army knife with watch tools and I never go<br />

anywhere without my magnifying glass.”<br />

Photos. Christie's Images Ltd..


24 HOURS<br />

7pm<br />

THE HEART OF MUMBAI beats in<br />

Colaba at its southernmost tip. The<br />

city’s characteristic love for newness<br />

has especially animated this neighbourhood,<br />

which is packed with hotels<br />

and restaurants, boutiques and curio<br />

stores, nightclubs and bars.<br />

Colaba’s Taj Mahal Palace & Tower<br />

faces the historic Gateway of India,<br />

Mumbai’s most famous landmark, and<br />

is the last word in hotel luxury. Apart<br />

from Trident, which is the Taj Mahal<br />

Palace’s closest competitor, you could<br />

opt for The Ambassador, the InterContinental<br />

Marine Drive Mumbai or Hotel<br />

Marine Plaza.<br />

Colaba’s numerous restaurants serve<br />

either Indian interpretations of Chinese<br />

cuisine or continental and Southeast<br />

Asian dishes. For a taste of what the locals<br />

feast on, sample the vegetarian and<br />

non-vegetarian Indian cuisine at Masala<br />

BY JUGNU MALIK<br />

24 HOURS<br />

Mumbai<br />

From the splendour of Colaba’s heritage to the all-night entertainment along<br />

Marine Drive and traditional spa pampering, India’s west-coast city has it all<br />

30 THE CLUB<br />

Kraft at the Taj Mahal Palace & Tower.<br />

The restaurant is located on the ground<br />

fl oor of the hotel’s magnifi cent heritage<br />

wing, which was built in 1903 and faces<br />

the Gateway of India.<br />

Wash down dinner with a drink or<br />

three at one of the well-appointed<br />

bars in Colaba and Marine Drive. At the<br />

head of the list is the InterContinental’s<br />

Dome. The rooftop bar has a panoramic<br />

view of the city’s high-rises and actionpacked<br />

streets – and the ocean.<br />

Photo. AWL Images/ArgusPhoto


Gateway of India<br />

from the Taj Mahal<br />

Palace & Tower hotel


24 HOURS<br />

32 THE CLUB<br />

Watch the sun set<br />

from Dome at the<br />

InterContinental<br />

Marine Drive<br />

Mumbai<br />

Later head to Busaba, which has<br />

low-lit interiors and a low-key vibe, or<br />

Henry Tham’s, a sleek lounge bar with<br />

an inhouse DJ who knows just how to<br />

set the mood.<br />

Indigo Deli, across the street from<br />

Henry Tham’s, is better known for its<br />

salads and sandwiches, but it is worth<br />

a visit for its cocktails, which mix the<br />

liquor with ingredients typically used<br />

in Indian meals, such as tamarind and<br />

curry leaves.<br />

Mumbai has more bars than dance<br />

clubs (mainly because of prohibitive<br />

real-estate rates) but if you want to<br />

move like the Mumbaiites do, head to<br />

Polly Esther’s, one of the last refuges of<br />

disco. Polly Esther’s interiors are proud<br />

to be described as groovy, from the polka-dotted<br />

shirts the waiters wear to the<br />

record sleeves tacked onto the walls.<br />

Also in Colaba is the Red Light club,<br />

where the city’s young and restless<br />

bounce and bop to hip hop.<br />

Midnight<br />

MUMBAI SHUTS DOWN much earlier<br />

than most other big cities in the<br />

world, but there’s no time limit at the<br />

Marine Drive promenade. If there’s<br />

one image of Mumbai you want to<br />

embed in your mind, it is the sight of<br />

structures twinkling across the bay all<br />

along the curve of the promenade,<br />

earning the stretch its well-deserved<br />

nickname, The Queen’s Necklace.<br />

Photos. Museum: Alamy/ArgusPhoto.<br />

Chowpatty Beach: Hemis/ArgusPhoto.<br />

InterContinental: AWL Images/ArgusPhoto.


8am<br />

WORK UP an appetite with a walk<br />

along the Arabian Sea either at Colaba<br />

or at Marine Drive. Facing the bobbing<br />

boats in the waters off Colaba are<br />

stately heritage buildings and low-rise<br />

apartments. Across the sea at Marine<br />

Drive are buildings constructed in the<br />

Art Deco style, much like in Miami.<br />

Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj<br />

Vastu Sangrahalaya<br />

museum is an<br />

architectural delight<br />

Eggs Florentine<br />

at Indigo Deli,<br />

a perfect start<br />

to the day<br />

Chowpatty<br />

Beach<br />

9am<br />

INDIGO DELI offers local versions of<br />

eggs Benedict and eggs Florentine<br />

and couscous upma, which mixes a<br />

local semolina-based dish with couscous<br />

and nuts. Frangipani at Trident<br />

offers a sake bento breakfast served<br />

in red lacquered boxes imported<br />

from Japan.<br />

11am<br />

MUMBAI HAS only two museums<br />

worth the trouble. One of them is<br />

in Colaba and goes by the ungainly<br />

name of Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj<br />

Vastu Sangrahalaya. The architectural<br />

landmark has 30,000 artefacts,<br />

a sliver of which can be accessed via<br />

a 45-minute audio tour. Spare some<br />

time for the gallery of exquisite Indian<br />

miniature paintings.<br />

Mumbai’s other museum of signifi -<br />

cance lies some distance from Colaba,<br />

in the south-central Byculla neighbourhood.<br />

The city of Mumbai itself<br />

is on display at the 152-year-old Dr<br />

Bhaudaji Lad Mumbai City Museum.<br />

The restored building and the quirky<br />

selection of artefacts that showcase<br />

Mumbai’s diverse communities and<br />

occupations make it worth the trek.<br />

If you would rather stay indoors and<br />

relax, there are few better ways than a<br />

traditional Indian spa treatment. The<br />

Jiva Spa at the Taj Mahal Palace off ers<br />

several enticements, including a traditional<br />

head massage called “champi” (it<br />

involves giving the scalp a very, very<br />

rigourous scrub). At the Shanti Spa at<br />

Trident, opt for the 90-minute massage<br />

that uses herbal oil to aid relaxation.<br />

To experience an authentic Kerala<br />

spa, head to the no-frills Kerala<br />

Ayurvedic Health Spa on Marine Drive.<br />

THE CLUB<br />

33


24 HOURS<br />

34 THE CLUB<br />

One of its best-known treatments is<br />

the Shiro Dhara, which claims to open<br />

your “Third Eye” and help you get closer<br />

to self-awareness. The process involves<br />

pouring warm oil on the forehead. It’s<br />

much more soothing than it sounds.<br />

1pm<br />

Try the herbal-oil massage<br />

at Shanti Spa<br />

FOR LUNCH, try the Konkan Café<br />

located inside the Taj President hotel.<br />

The restaurant’s décor mirrors that of<br />

homes along India’s west coast, and<br />

the food is what you’d get served<br />

there. Popular seafood dishes include<br />

Mangalorean-style gassi (fi sh steamed<br />

in a turmeric paste) and shrimp curry.<br />

An Indian lunch unlike anything you<br />

may have eaten before awaits you at<br />

Soam, across the street from the beautiful<br />

and ancient Babulnath temple.<br />

Soam serves snacks and meals from<br />

Gujarat, a state in western India famed<br />

for its wide-ranging vegetarian cuisine.<br />

Be sure to try the panki, made from<br />

rice fl our and yoghurt and served in<br />

steamed banana leaves.<br />

2:30pm<br />

FOR A GLIMPSE of Old World Mumbai,<br />

pay your respects at the temple that<br />

gives the city its name. At Mumbadevi<br />

Temple in Kalbadevi, the goddess<br />

Mumbadevi sits resplendent among<br />

other deities in the pantheon.<br />

Kalbadevi is one of Mumbai’s busiest<br />

neighbourhoods and many temples<br />

and buildings there are several hundred<br />

years old – Mumbadevi Temple<br />

was built in the late 18th century. The<br />

congested yet colourful neighbourhood,<br />

which is overfl owing with shops,<br />

buildings, people and vehicles, off ers a<br />

vivid snapshot of a city whose destiny<br />

is density.<br />

Just a short taxi ride away is the<br />

city’s oldest pilgrimage spot at the<br />

Banganga Tank and temple complex<br />

in Walkeshwar. The water tank was<br />

built between the ninth and 13th<br />

centuries and is ringed by tiny houses<br />

on all four sides.<br />

5pm<br />

WHEN IT comes to shopping, Colaba<br />

strikes the perfect balance between<br />

the old and the new. It has the best<br />

of new Indian haute couture as well<br />

as stores selling the creations of<br />

traditional artisans.<br />

The government-run Central Cottage<br />

Industries Emporium showcases<br />

all that India is famous for, from its<br />

carpets and sandalwood items to<br />

exotic teas and herbal cosmetics, from<br />

brassware and silverware to handspun<br />

cotton and silk.<br />

Good Earth<br />

is a hive of<br />

hom e dé cor<br />

Konkan Café<br />

(right) serves<br />

food that’s<br />

popular among<br />

locals on the<br />

west coast Photos. Good Earth: Sebastian Zachariah. Temple: Hemis/ArgusPhoto


Ensemble showcases the stuff that<br />

India is becoming famous for. It is a<br />

one-stop shop for chic threads from<br />

the country’s most famous couture<br />

designers. Ensemble was set up by a<br />

leading Indian designer Tarun Tahiliani,<br />

and stocks the designs of experienced<br />

fashion names such as Rohit Bal,<br />

Bhairavi Jaikishan and Rajesh Pratap<br />

Singh as well as red-hot talent such<br />

as Surily Goel, Sabyasachi Mukherjee<br />

and Anamika Khanna. More Indian<br />

designers are housed at The Courtyard,<br />

including Narendra Kumar and Rajesh<br />

Pratap Singh.<br />

At the capacious Ravissant, which<br />

has stores at the Taj Mahal Palace and<br />

Trident, you can fi nd exquisite silver<br />

and home accessories.<br />

Good Earth also has an extensive<br />

collection of home décor products as<br />

well as a multitude of sweet-smelling<br />

spa accessories.<br />

The Banganga<br />

temple<br />

complex at<br />

Walkeshwar<br />

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• Daily breakfast for up to two people<br />

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THE CLUB<br />

35


24 HOURS<br />

36 THE CLUB<br />

DINE<br />

Busaba<br />

Mandlik Road, Colaba, +91 22 2204 3779<br />

Dome<br />

InterContinental Marine Drive Mumbai<br />

+91 22 3987 9999<br />

www.ichotelsgroup.com/intercontinental/en/<br />

gb/locations/mumbai-marinedrive<br />

Frangipani<br />

Trident, Nariman Point, +91 22 6632 6310<br />

www.tridenthotels.com/mumbai_nariman_<br />

point/index.asp<br />

Henry Tham’s<br />

Dhanraj Mahal, Colaba<br />

+91 22 2284 8214<br />

Indigo Deli<br />

Chattrapati Shivaji Maharishi Marg,<br />

Colaba, +91 22 6655 1010<br />

www.indigodeli.com<br />

The Konkan Café<br />

Taj President hotel, 90 Cuff e Parade<br />

+91 22 6665 0808<br />

www.tajhotels.com<br />

Masala Kraft<br />

Taj Mahal Palace & Tower, Apollo Bunder,<br />

Colaba, +91 22 6665 3366<br />

www.tajhotels.com<br />

Polly Esther’s<br />

Gordon House, Battery Street, Colaba<br />

+91 22 2287 1122<br />

www.mars-world.com/restaurants/polly.html<br />

Red Light<br />

Khyber, MG Road, Kala Ghoda, Colaba<br />

+91 22 6634 6249<br />

Soam<br />

Opposite Babulnath Temple, Chowpatty<br />

+91 22 2369 8080<br />

SHOP<br />

Central Cottage Industries Emporium<br />

Near Dhanraj Mahal, Colaba<br />

+91 22 2202 6564<br />

The Courtyard<br />

Minoo Desai Road, Colaba<br />

+91 22 6638 5468<br />

Ensemble<br />

Great Western Building, Shahid Bhagat<br />

Singh Road, Colaba, +91 22 2284 5118<br />

Good Earth<br />

Reay House, Colaba, +91 22 2202 1030<br />

www.goodearthindia.com<br />

Ravissant<br />

Taj Mahal Palace & Tower, Apollo Bunder,<br />

Colaba, +91 22 2281 5225<br />

Trident, Nariman Point, +91 22 2284 2586<br />

www.cest-ravissant.com<br />

STAY<br />

The Ambassador<br />

Veer Nariman Road, +91 22 2204 0022<br />

www.ambassadorindia.com/mumbai.asp<br />

InterContinental Marine Drive Mumbai<br />

+91 22 3987 9999<br />

www.ichotelsgroup.com/intercontinental/en/<br />

gb/locations/mumbai-marinedrive<br />

Hotel Marine Plaza<br />

29 Marine Drive, +91 22 2285 1212<br />

www.hotelmarineplaza.com<br />

Taj Mahal Palace & Tower<br />

Apollo Bunder, Colaba, +91 22 6665 3366<br />

www.tajhotels.com<br />

Trident<br />

Nariman Point, +91 22 6632 4343<br />

www.tridenthotels.com/mumbai_nariman_<br />

point/index.asp<br />

VISIT<br />

Banganga Temple<br />

Banganga Tank, Walkeshwar<br />

Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Vastu<br />

Sangrahalaya<br />

MG Road, Colaba +91 22 2284 4484<br />

www.bombaymuseum.org<br />

Dr Bhaudaji Lad Mumbai City Museum<br />

Veermata Jijabai Bhonsale Udyan<br />

(city zoo), Dr Ambedkar Road, Byculla<br />

+91 22 2373 1234<br />

www.bdlmuseum.org<br />

Jiva Spa<br />

Taj Mahal Palace & Tower, Apollo Bunder,<br />

Colaba, +91 22 6665 3366<br />

www.tajhotels.com<br />

Kerala Ayurvedic Health Spa<br />

98 Marine Drive, +91 22 2288 3210<br />

Mumbadevi Temple<br />

Mumba Devi Marg, Kalbadevi district<br />

Shanti Spa<br />

Trident, Nariman Point, +91 22 6632 6522<br />

www.tridenthotels.com/mumbai_nariman_<br />

point/index.asp<br />

Polly Esther’s: where disco survives


Rakesh Raicar, <strong>Cathay</strong> <strong>Pacific</strong><br />

Sales & Marketing Manager, India, Nepal & Bangladesh<br />

Get up at the crack of dawn and go to Sassoon<br />

Docks to see the indigenous Kolis people (the<br />

fishing community of Mumbai) bringing in the<br />

catch of the day. Spending a day trawling for<br />

bargains on Mutton Street in Chor Bazaar is also<br />

a fantastic experience.<br />

My favourite café would have to be the Café<br />

Britannia, which is also known as Britannia and Co.<br />

(Wakefi eld House, 11 Sprott Road, 16 Ballard Estate,<br />

Fort, Mumbai, +91 22 2261 5264). This local Iranian<br />

institution has been around for 86 years and is still<br />

run by the same family. Try their delicious berry<br />

pulao and crème caramel.<br />

One of the best restaurants in town is the<br />

well known Trishna (Kala Ghoda, Fort, Colaba,<br />

+ 91 22 2270 3213) at Birla Mansion, Sai Baba<br />

Marg. You must order the amazing rawas<br />

hyderabadi – fi sh marinated in black pepper and<br />

turmeric – as well as the fantastic butter, pepper<br />

and garlic crab.<br />

The best street stall would have to be Bade<br />

Miya’s (Tulloch Road, Apollo Bunder, behind Taj<br />

Mahal Palace and Tower Hotel, Colaba) – perfect<br />

for a chicken reshmi roll at 3am, after a night out.<br />

For unique souvenirs I suggest a box of masala<br />

chai and an exquisite pashmina that you have<br />

haggled hard to buy in Colaba.<br />

The Bombay Store (www.bombaystore.com) is<br />

a one-stop shop for all your handicrafts and gifts,<br />

ranging from apparel, fashion accessories, personal<br />

care, food and beverages, home accessories to soft<br />

furnishings and stationery. For fabrics, Fabindia<br />

(www.fabindia.com) off ers you a range of shirts,<br />

trousers, kurtas and salwar kameez, all made from<br />

gloriously colourful block-printed silk and cotton.<br />

Curtains, linen, jewellery and other gift items are<br />

also available.<br />

For nightlife, most places rock until the wee<br />

hours. Blue Frog (www.bluefrog.co.in) is a fantastic<br />

venue for live music, Zenzi (183 Waterfi eld Road,<br />

Bandra West, +91 22 6643 0670) showcases the<br />

best DJs and Prive (41/44 Monrepos, Ground Floor,<br />

Minoo Desai Road, Colaba, +91 22 2202 8700) is<br />

perfect for mingling with the beautiful people.<br />

If you really want to blend in with the locals,<br />

wear a pair of kurta pajamas, get a cup of hot<br />

masala chai, a copy of the Hindustan Times and sit<br />

on the seafront at Marine Drive early in the morning.<br />

Alternatively, you could drive a dilapidated<br />

Fiat around like a maniac.<br />

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from Hertz:<br />

• Self-drive Offer: Enjoy five complimentary rental<br />

hours on top of the regular 10% discount and 250<br />

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on chauffeur-drive rates and for Economy to<br />

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four hours or 40 kilometres.<br />

Make your reservation at least 72 hours prior to<br />

departure for chauffeur-drive rentals and 48 hours<br />

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1. These offers are valid at participating Hertz<br />

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2. Standard Hertz terms and conditions apply.<br />

THE CLUB<br />

37


Thermo-processed silk<br />

used for scarves at Khai<br />

Silk boutique<br />

BY SAMANTHA COOMBER<br />

Sheen star<br />

Silk threads through the history of Vietnam but<br />

hip Ho Chi Minh City designers add a new twist<br />

that updates the lustre of the traditional fabric<br />

ifestyle and fashion label SONG retails its madein-Vietnam<br />

clothes and homewares in some of<br />

the world’s most up-market resorts and stores<br />

such as Saks Fifth Avenue in New York. Founder<br />

and Ho Chi Minh City resident Valerie Gregori<br />

McKenzie insists on using handmade Vietnamese<br />

silks. In her workshop the savvy French<br />

designer enthuses about the variety of colours<br />

and the texture. “The silk’s informal quality and<br />

imperfect appearance is ideal<br />

for our relaxed, resort-style<br />

concept,” she says.<br />

Home-grown label Mosaique also exports its homewares<br />

and interiors worldwide and Vietnamese founder-designer<br />

Alan Duong chooses Vietnamese silk for his hand-crafted<br />

designs. “The artisanal quality gives our goods a traditional,<br />

handmade look that is Mosaique’s defi ning trademark,”<br />

Duong says.<br />

Photo. Alamy/Argus Photo<br />

Timeless beauty:<br />

the traditional<br />

ao dai dress<br />

PHOTOS PETER STUCKINGS<br />

Threading ancient skills through to the 21st century,<br />

Vietnam’s traditional silk industry is undergoing an intriguing<br />

metamorphosis. And in its typically progressive and edgy<br />

attitude, cosmopolitan and dynamic Ho Chi Minh City in the<br />

south leads the revolution. Vietnam’s shopping capital turns<br />

tradition on its head with innovative designers and exciting<br />

old-meets-new hybrids.<br />

TRAVEL<br />

THE CLUB<br />

39


TRAVEL<br />

VIETNAMESE SILKS HAVE<br />

A LOOSE, FLOWING QUALITY<br />

THAT DRAPES BEAUTIFULLY<br />

Silk ties to suit<br />

every taste<br />

at Tuyet Lan<br />

boutique<br />

(below right)<br />

Nguyen Quynh<br />

An of [chle]<br />

(below)<br />

in one of her<br />

silk dresses<br />

Like most of Vietnam’s traditional crafts, silk evolved in the<br />

country’s north, especially in the Red River Delta region. Fuelled<br />

by the nation’s thriving economic development, Vietnam’s<br />

most illustrious and popular craft is enjoying a renaissance and<br />

surging demand in domestic and international markets. The<br />

north may have enjoyed a lengthy monopoly but other areas<br />

are now successful producers.<br />

Vietnamese silk comprises many varieties and there are<br />

distinct regional specialties. The celebrated glossy Ha Dong silk<br />

is produced in the north while central Quang Nam Province is<br />

renowned for its Danang taff eta, organza and damask silks. In<br />

the south, the highland Lam Dong Province is reputed for its<br />

quality silks and the Mekong Delta’s Tan Chau has recently kickstarted<br />

its traditional Cham and Khmer silk weaves, including<br />

the unusual ebony satin.<br />

Developing faster than the traditional north, the south<br />

boasts more sophisticated production methods, with modern<br />

equipment and, increasingly, factory premises.<br />

However, many home-based enterprises still use traditional<br />

methods of thread spinning, dyeing and hand-weaving in<br />

small workshops. With this sort of artisanal production<br />

and inherent traditions, Vietnam’s silks vary from their<br />

other Asian counterparts and generally are defi ned by<br />

a looser, more fl owing quality that drapes beautifully.<br />

Vietnamese artisanal silk weaves appear plainer, albeit<br />

with a lustrous sheen, and tend to have a handmade,<br />

slightly uneven quality, the result of varying thicknesses<br />

of thread, a characteristic of hand-weaving that always<br />

distinguishes it from sleek, machine-woven silks.<br />

Apart from Gregori McKenzie and Duong, other


Minh Khoa (left) offers<br />

wedding gowns,<br />

ao dais and<br />

evening dresses<br />

Vietnam is without<br />

a significant leather<br />

industry. Silk footwear<br />

(below) offers a<br />

colourful alternative<br />

resident international and local designers fi nd the unique<br />

qualities of Vietnamese silks an inspiring – and competitively<br />

priced – fabric to work with for their cutting-edge designs.<br />

“We focus on materials unique to that country,” say<br />

Vietnam-based Spaniards Diego Cortizas and Laura Fontán,<br />

founders of Chula fashions. “For us, Vietnamese silk is one of<br />

Vietnam’s treasures. European silk may look more extravagant,<br />

but the variety of textures, colours and shapes arising from local<br />

silks allow us greater design freedom.”<br />

Local boutique [chle] exclusively uses pure Vietnamese<br />

silk for its handmade fashions. “Domestic silks are<br />

not only beautiful with bold colours,” reflects Nguyen<br />

Quynh An, who created the brand. “But the silk’s floaty<br />

quality allows us to execute the [chle] look perfectly –<br />

feminine, sensual, yet with modern panache.”<br />

Ho Viet Ly, the founder of upscale silk producer Toan Thinh<br />

Silk, says the Vietnamese fabric is “an untapped resource”.<br />

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From 16 August to 15 November 2009, enjoy a stylish<br />

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complimentary access to the recently renovated<br />

Sheraton Fitness club and swimming pool.<br />

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Please quote promotion code “WEEKEND MARCO<br />

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Telephone: +84 8 3827 2828<br />

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Terms and conditions<br />

1. Rate is valid for stays booked and used on Fridays,<br />

Saturdays and Sundays within the promotion<br />

period.<br />

2. Rate is subject to 5% service charge and 5.25%<br />

government tax.<br />

THE CLUB<br />

41


TRAVEL<br />

Foremost a highly-skilled weaver, Ly explores the technical<br />

potential of Vietnam’s silk. Manufacturers are now expanding<br />

their silk and garment repertoire with modern-style fi nishes,<br />

such as the “crinkled” look, rayon and viscose mixes and new<br />

techniques in dyeing and thermo-processing threads.<br />

As the hub of Vietnam’s burgeoning fashion industry,<br />

Ho Chi Minh City is home to an increasing band of homegrown,<br />

pioneering designers creating fashionable Oriental-<br />

East-meets-contemporary-West silk creations. The south’s<br />

lighter, funkier and more avant-garde designs refl ect its<br />

tropical climes and experimental mindset, contrasting with<br />

Hanoi’s more traditional, formal and heavier varieties.<br />

BEST BUYS<br />

From hotel lobbies to Tan Son Nhat Airport,<br />

someone, somewhere in Ho Chi Minh City<br />

will be selling silk. Here are some of the best<br />

places to buy. (Unless stated otherwise,<br />

listings are all located in downtown<br />

District One).<br />

aa deco<br />

Sumptuous interiors<br />

and furniture<br />

inspired by colonial<br />

and Oriental classics include<br />

Chinese-style ceiling lanterns –<br />

stunningly hand-crafted from pure<br />

silk – and silk brocade boudoir<br />

cushions.<br />

219 Nguyen Van<br />

Thu Street<br />

+84 8 3823 0940<br />

www.aacorporation.com<br />

Nguyen Freres<br />

Eclectic mix of inexpensive silk goodies<br />

including cushion covers, wallets, scarves, bags<br />

and lanterns.<br />

2 Dong Khoi Street, +84 8 3823 9459<br />

[chle]<br />

Floaty pure silk fashions at this local boutique<br />

are original designs and feature pretty sun<br />

dresses, skirts and sleeveless blouses in bold<br />

colours. Raw silk jackets feature a Chanel twist.<br />

9B Thai Van Lung Street<br />

+84 8 3827 7550<br />

Minh Khoa<br />

Ho Chi Minh City designer Minh Khoa’s prêt-aporter<br />

couture collections feature glamorous<br />

wedding gowns, ao dais and evening dresses.<br />

39 Dong Khoi Street<br />

+84 8 3823 2302<br />

www.minhkhoa-f.com/collection<br />

Tuyet Lan<br />

Some of the prettiest yet best value silk<br />

fashions in the city can be found at this<br />

low-key boutique.<br />

84-86 Le Loi Street<br />

+84 8 3829 9754<br />

Mandarina<br />

Sublime hand-crafted shoes include strappy<br />

high heels in red satin silk and bright<br />

brocade boots.<br />

171 Le Thanh Ton Street<br />

+84 8 3827 5267<br />

VOV<br />

Couture designer Vo Viet Chung’s boutique<br />

showcases traditional, contemporary and<br />

wedding ao dais.<br />

403 Huynh Van Banh Street,<br />

Phu Nhuan District, +84 8 3991 0299<br />

www.vovietchung.com


Luxurious<br />

interiors<br />

at aa deco<br />

Khai Silk<br />

Traditional Oriental to contemporary fashions<br />

are beautifully executed and use the fi nest silks.<br />

Accessories include multicoloured scarves and<br />

velvet and brocade shawls.<br />

107 Dong Khoi Street<br />

+84 8 3829 1146<br />

www.khaisilkcorp.com<br />

Chula @ Ipa-Nima<br />

Ipa-Nima’s fl agship handbag store exclusively<br />

carries Chula fashions. Handmade from pure<br />

taff eta, these vividly coloured dresses fuse vibrant<br />

Spanish designs with Vietnamese traditions.<br />

77-79 Dong Khoi Street<br />

+84 90 425 8960<br />

www.chula.es<br />

Kenly Silk<br />

This family-run business off ers quality and<br />

good value silk garments, traditional and<br />

Ho Ch Minh City’s new generation of chic boutiques showcase<br />

these modern off -the-rack designs. Epitomizing this<br />

change is the evolution of the beloved national costume, the<br />

silk ao dai, a long close-fi tting dress split to the sides and worn<br />

over wide trousers.<br />

Leading southern designer Vo Viet Chung has won awards<br />

for daring, contemporary takes on the outfi t in his couture<br />

collections. Its trademark fl owing, sensuous movement is<br />

accentuated by the fl uidity of Vietnamese silks. Ho Chi Minh<br />

City boutiques take this a step further with this traditional<br />

design morphing as hip satin silk garments worn over jeans<br />

or psychedelic chiff on numbers.<br />

modern ao dais, fi tted taff eta jackets and<br />

hand-painted robes.<br />

132 Le Thanh Ton Street<br />

+84 8 3829 3847<br />

www.kenlysilk.com<br />

Mosaique Decoration<br />

Handmade silk homewares and accessories<br />

feature embroidered cushions, hand-stitched<br />

quilts and lotus-shaped lanterns.<br />

98 Mac Thi Buoi Street<br />

+84 8 3823 4634<br />

www.mosaiquedecoration.com<br />

SONG<br />

The clothing, soft furnishings and accessories<br />

feature limited-edition, exquisitely<br />

embroidered silk scarves.<br />

76D Le Thanh Ton Street<br />

+84 8 3824 6986<br />

www.asiasongdesign.com<br />

PARTNER OFFER<br />

Enjoy a half-day private tour<br />

Members of The Marco Polo Club who book a<br />

Standard or Deluxe Ho Chi Minh City <strong>Cathay</strong> <strong>Pacific</strong><br />

Holidays package and travel between 20 August and<br />

30 November 2009 will enjoy a special offer – an<br />

inspiring half-day private tour of this historic city.<br />

Half-day tour includes:<br />

• An English-speaking guide and private transfers<br />

• Admission fees as specified in the itinerary<br />

• Visits to historic attractions such as Reunification<br />

Palace, War Remnants Museum, Emperor of Jade<br />

Pagoda and Central Ben Thanh Market<br />

Package price starts from HKD3,400 and includes:<br />

• A round-trip Economy Class or Business Class flight<br />

between Hong Kong and Ho Chi Minh City on<br />

<strong>Cathay</strong> <strong>Pacific</strong> Airways<br />

• Two consecutive nights’ accommodation at selected<br />

hotels with daily breakfast<br />

• Travel insurance<br />

For reservations<br />

Telephone: +852 2747 4388<br />

Website: www.cxholidays.com<br />

Terms and conditions<br />

1. Price is quoted per person, based on two adults sharing one room,<br />

checking in and travelling together throughout the entire journey.<br />

2. This offer is only valid for packages booked and paid for between<br />

16 August and 15 November 2009.<br />

3. <strong>Cathay</strong> Holidays Limited terms and<br />

conditions apply.<br />

THE CLUB<br />

43


INSIDE CX<br />

44 THE CLUB<br />

BY MATHEW SCOTT<br />

Safety fi rst<br />

From the top down, safety is the prime concern of the <strong>Cathay</strong> Pacifi c culture<br />

ichard Howell reaches forward and with a<br />

click of his mouse the computer screen on<br />

his desk displays an animated version of<br />

one of the <strong>Cathay</strong> Pacifi c fl ights that see<br />

about a million passengers safely reach<br />

their chosen destinations each month.<br />

As <strong>Cathay</strong> <strong>Pacific</strong>’s Head of Corporate<br />

Safety, it’s Howell’s job to make sure<br />

they do just that. Every second of each<br />

fl ight is recorded, he reveals, and then<br />

gone over in minute detail.<br />

“Aviation is the safest form of transport in the world,’’ Howell<br />

explains. “And so we have all these systems in place to predict<br />

where the next problem might come from, to fi nd something<br />

that might otherwise catch us out.<br />

“We record every single fl ight from engine start to engine<br />

shut down, so we know what goes on and we scan every<br />

single fl ight for any events. And if an event happens, we follow<br />

that up.’’<br />

Safety is at the very core of <strong>Cathay</strong> Pacifi c’s corporate policy,<br />

a commitment to securing the very highest of standards that<br />

goes right to the top. Responsibility may begin with each and<br />

every member of staff , but ultimately it rests with the airline’s<br />

Chief Executive, Tony Tyler.<br />

“One of the most important things about safety is that it<br />

comes from the top down,’’ says Howell. “In the company we<br />

have a mission statement that says various things but paramount<br />

is that safety comes fi rst. The idea is that we try to generate an<br />

organizational culture which is a safe culture.’’<br />

The very human face of <strong>Cathay</strong> <strong>Pacific</strong>’s safety culture<br />

greets you as you board your fl ight. Intense training when staff<br />

members fi rst join the airline and annual refresher courses mean<br />

cabin crew know how to react to any situation: “There’s ongoing<br />

training every year,” says Howell. “We go out there and actively<br />

look for problems and we do a lot of publications on a regular<br />

basis to educate our crews about safety issues that are going<br />

on. It’s about constantly learning.’’<br />

Flight Purser Mary Tam has been with <strong>Cathay</strong> Pacifi c for nineand-a-half<br />

years and on a daily basis has to deal with what is the<br />

McIntyre<br />

G.<br />

most common concern for passengers – air turbulence.<br />

“Sometimes people are nervous – particularly fi rst-time David<br />

travellers because they have no idea what happens on fl ights,’’ Photos:


Staff receive<br />

ongoing safety<br />

English caption training, xxxxxxx says<br />

xxx Richard xxxx xxxx Howell<br />

xxxx


INSIDE CX<br />

46 THE CLUB<br />

WHEN IT COMES TO PREPARING IN THE ACTUAL<br />

COCKPIT ... NOTHING IS LEFT TO CHANCE<br />

Tam says. “So we comfort them and tell them what to expect<br />

during the turbulence. For example, in light turbulence our<br />

in-fl ight service manager will address the PA and announce<br />

the light turbulence. Then we will secure and check the cabin,<br />

making sure everyone is in their seats and there is no one in<br />

the toilets. If there is, then we will ask them to come out quickly.<br />

Everything is done to ensure safety.’’<br />

That includes tucking away anything that might cause harm.<br />

Hence passengers are asked to store any loose, heavy items<br />

under the seats – and why you’ll see those drinks trolleys quickly<br />

taken away. “Well, we have to stop all the hot beverage services<br />

pretty quickly,’’ says Tam.<br />

Pilots change<br />

course to avoid<br />

cloud-based<br />

turbulence,<br />

says Captain<br />

Henry Craig<br />

“If, for example, the crew is doing tea services with the cart we<br />

will hide the teapots inside the cart in case anything might spill<br />

on a passenger. We lock them away and the purser will come<br />

and grab the pots to make sure we don’t have to worry about<br />

anything. We don’t leave anything to chance.’’<br />

As <strong>Cathay</strong> Pacifi c’s General Manager Flying, Captain Henry<br />

Craig keeps a close watch on what happens should there be<br />

any in-fl ight problems. In keeping with <strong>Cathay</strong> Pacifi c’s safety<br />

mantra, Craig says it is all about learning. And when it comes<br />

to preparing in the actual cockpit, Craig stresses that nothing<br />

is left to chance.<br />

“When it comes to turbulence obviously the fi rst thing we<br />

try to do is avoid it if we can,’’ Craig explains. “There are basically<br />

two types of turbulence – ones that are associated with cloud<br />

and ones that are not associated with cloud.<br />

“If they are not associated with cloud they are called clear<br />

air turbulence. And basically with clear air turbulence we can’t<br />

anticipate it. If we start getting a bump or two we’ll immediately<br />

put on the seat belt sign.’’<br />

When air turbulence is a result of clouds or “convective buildup’’,<br />

pilots are able to see it on their weather-radar screen. “We<br />

do everything we can to avoid it,’’ says Craig.<br />

Vigilance is the key, says <strong>Cathay</strong> Pacifi c’s General Manager<br />

Infl ight Services, Charlie Stewart-Cox. Pre-fl ight briefi ngs prepare<br />

staff for the fl ight, just as the pre-fl ight safety demonstrations<br />

prepare passengers.<br />

“It’s all about situation awareness both for the staff and the<br />

passengers,’’ says Stewart-Cox. “Staff will look around the fl ight<br />

as people board and form a general fl ight profi le, looking to


e aware of special needs, such as languages to use and what<br />

families are on board and what help they might require.’’<br />

That process is part of <strong>Cathay</strong> <strong>Pacific</strong>’s risk-based Safety<br />

Management System (SMS), explains Howell. “What that means<br />

is having certain things in place, and among those is generating<br />

a safety culture,’’ he says. “The SMS is like a jigsaw puzzle. Each<br />

one of them is not that eff ective but joined together it makes a<br />

very, very good system.<br />

“There are factors like a very good established safety reporting<br />

system so that if something goes wrong the crews know<br />

how to report something. Basically we know how to learn from<br />

our mistakes and we all make mistakes. We just make sure they<br />

don’t happen again.’’<br />

As part of <strong>Cathay</strong> Pacifi c’s SMS, everything reported and<br />

Vigilance<br />

is the key,<br />

says Charlie<br />

Stewart-Cox<br />

(above left)<br />

Trainees learn<br />

that hot drinks<br />

are always<br />

poured in the<br />

aisle to avoid<br />

spillage on<br />

passengers<br />

(above)<br />

observed goes into a database to be followed up on so that<br />

nothing escapes attention – and action.<br />

“When something does go wrong it’s not really about fi nding<br />

out who is guilty. It is about what went wrong in the system and<br />

fi xing that problem,’’ he says.<br />

From a passenger’s point of view, Howell says the important<br />

thing to remember – always – is that <strong>Cathay</strong> Pacifi c’s staff are<br />

there to help things run smoothly and safely.<br />

“Primarily the cabin crew are there to keep the passengers<br />

safe; they are safety executives,’’ he says. “People forget that in<br />

the beginning, stewardesses were all qualifi ed nurses – safety<br />

was the fi rst concern. You want to provide the best service and<br />

the best safety – that is the main role. And if they ask you to do<br />

something, there will always be a reason for it.’’<br />

THE CLUB<br />

47


CX NEWS<br />

SWING INTO ACTION<br />

Look forward to plenty of long<br />

drives and perfect putts at<br />

The Marco Polo Club Golf Classic<br />

2009, our highly anticipated<br />

annual event reserved for Gold<br />

and above members.<br />

Join us from 6 to 8 November,<br />

2009, in Taipei for a spectacular<br />

golfi ng experience. This year’s<br />

tournament is being hosted at<br />

the world-class championship<br />

courses of the Miramar Golf<br />

Country Club and Ta Shee Golf<br />

& Country Club.<br />

You get the chance to win the<br />

championship trophy for Best<br />

Gross, Best Gross 1st Runner-up,<br />

Best Team 18-hole Scramble,<br />

Longest Drive and Nearest-<br />

To-The-Pin. There are fantastic<br />

prizes to be won, including the<br />

fi rst Hole-in-One award of One<br />

Million Asia Miles!<br />

The fi nale to our tournament<br />

will be an unforgettable dining<br />

Ta Shee Golf &<br />

Country Club<br />

experience featuring Taiwanese<br />

cuisine prepared by celebrated<br />

chef and author “Ar-Ji-Shi”.<br />

Get into full swing at<br />

two world-class golf<br />

courses<br />

Miramar Golf Country Club –<br />

ranked as the top golf course in<br />

Taiwan by U.S. Golf Digest in 1999<br />

– off ers golfers a distinctive<br />

playing environment throughout<br />

the 36-hole course (Course<br />

A & B) designed by golfi ng<br />

legend Jack Nicklaus.<br />

Ta Shee Golf & Country Club<br />

was re-built in 1999 by Robert<br />

Trent Jones Jr. and is the only<br />

golf course in Taiwan recognised<br />

by European, Australian and<br />

Asian Circuit Games.<br />

Stay in five-star luxury<br />

You can choose to stay at an<br />

exclusive rate at Shangri-La’s Far<br />

Shangri-La’s Far Eastern<br />

Plaza Hotel, Taipei<br />

Miramar Golf<br />

Country Club<br />

Eastern Plaza Hotel, Taipei, which<br />

occupies an ideal location in the<br />

heart of the city’s fl ourishing<br />

business district on fashionable<br />

Tun Hwa South Road. Taking<br />

advantage of the unique curved<br />

architecture and soaring height<br />

of the signature building, all<br />

rooms and suites have engaging<br />

and varied views of Taipei.<br />

Register now for a<br />

great weekend of<br />

competition<br />

This event is open exclusively<br />

to Gold and above members of<br />

The Marco Polo Club and their<br />

guests (maximum one guest<br />

per member), but places are<br />

limited and will be allocated on a<br />

fi rst-come-fi rst-served basis. For<br />

more details and to register, log in<br />

to your Marco Polo Club account<br />

at www.cathaypacifi c.com or call<br />

The Marco Polo Club Golf Classic<br />

Hotline on +852 2411 4179.<br />

THE MARCO POLO CLUB<br />

GOLF CLASSIC<br />

TOURNAMENT<br />

PACKAGE<br />

You and your companion can<br />

take part in this exciting event<br />

for 72,000 Asia Miles per person,<br />

which includes:<br />

• Warm-up game on the fi rst day<br />

• Green fees for two days of golf<br />

• Golf caddy and buggy<br />

• Driving range for warm-up<br />

• Round-trip transfers between the<br />

hotel and golf courses<br />

• Organising, team pairing and<br />

scoring<br />

• A collection of golfi ng gifts and<br />

accessories<br />

• Trophy and prizes<br />

• Welcome cocktails and daily<br />

lunch<br />

• Closing gala dinner


Dragonair launches new services to Guangzhou<br />

Dragonair fl ies to Guangzhou<br />

from 14 September. The<br />

provincial capital of Guangdong,<br />

Guangzhou is also the biggest<br />

city in the fast-growing Pearl<br />

River Delta region. The new<br />

service aims to further enhance<br />

Hong Kong’s status as one of the<br />

world’s premier international<br />

aviation hubs. The early morning<br />

fl ights to and from Hong<br />

Kong are designed to off er<br />

you good connections into<br />

Hyatt Hotels & Resorts • Park Hyatt Hotels •<br />

Grand Hyatt Hotels • Hyatt Regency Hotels •<br />

Hyatt Place • Hyatt Summerfield Suites<br />

Mandarin Oriental Hotel Group<br />

Marriott International Hotels<br />

Marriott® Hotels & Resorts •<br />

JW Marriott® Hotels & Resorts •<br />

Renaissance® Hotels & Resorts<br />

and out of the Hong Kong hub<br />

from international destinations.<br />

For fl ight schedules, please visit<br />

www.dragonair.com<br />

Guangzhou on<br />

the Pearl River<br />

A taste of Tuscany with Frescobaldi<br />

For 700 years, the Frescobaldi family has created wine in<br />

Tuscany. Marchesi de Frescobaldi has seven estates<br />

producing wines that express the local terroir.<br />

From September to November, passengers travelling in<br />

<strong>Cathay</strong> Pacifi c First Class can taste the Mormoreto 2006 and<br />

Montesodi 2006, and Business Class passengers can try the<br />

Nipozzano Riserva 2005 and Tenuta di Castiglioni 2006.<br />

The Frescobaldi wines are available by the glass on most<br />

long-haul fl ights in and out of Hong Kong.<br />

Brand new <strong>Cathay</strong> <strong>Pacific</strong> lounge in Kuala Lumpur<br />

The newly opened <strong>Cathay</strong> Pacifi c First and Business Class lounge in<br />

Kuala Lumpur International Airport will off er you an enhanced travel<br />

experience. The 93-seat lounge covers more than 370 square metres.<br />

Its design echoes the concept of The Pier lounge in Hong Kong,<br />

with fi ne marble and wood fi nishes, and a touch of the signature<br />

“Long Table” and “Bamboo Wall”.<br />

There are seven “Personal Living Spaces” with full broadband and<br />

Wi-Fi access for you to work or go online. A wide variety of Western<br />

and Asian cuisine is on off er from a constantly updated menu.<br />

New First and Business Class<br />

lounge, Kuala Lumpur<br />

CLUB PARTNERS : For exclusive Club partner offers, please visit the member’s area of www.cathaypacific.com<br />

Shangri-La Hotels and Resorts<br />

Shangri-La Hotels and Resorts •<br />

Traders Hotels<br />

Starwood Hotels & Resorts Worldwide<br />

Sheraton Hotels & Resorts® • Four Points® by Sheraton •<br />

St. Regis® Hotels & Resorts • The Luxury Collection® •<br />

Le Méridien • W Hotels® • Westin Hotels & Resorts®<br />

Swire Hotels<br />

The Hilton Family • Hilton®• Conrad® Hotels &<br />

Resorts • Doubletree® • Embassy Suites Hotels® •<br />

Hilton Garden Inn® • Hilton Grand Vacations •<br />

The Waldorf Astoria Collection<br />

The Peninsula Hotels<br />

Avis<br />

Hertz<br />

SIXT rent a car<br />

For all partner offers, prices quoted are subject to change without prior notice. Peak season surcharges apply. Advance reservation is required. Rooms and offers are subject to availability.<br />

Blackout dates apply. Offer cannot be used in conjunction with any other promotional offer or membership benefit.<br />

THE CLUB<br />

49


3<br />

QUARTER 2009

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