FINE TUNES - Cathay Pacific
FINE TUNES - Cathay Pacific
FINE TUNES - Cathay Pacific
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MAGAZINE OF THE MARCO POLO CLUB<br />
3<br />
QUARTER 2009<br />
24 HOURS IN<br />
MUMBAI<br />
<strong>FINE</strong> <strong>TUNES</strong><br />
TAILOR-MADE<br />
MUSIC
CONTENTS<br />
4 THE CLUB<br />
DEPARTMENTS<br />
06 MESSAGE FROM<br />
THE CLUB<br />
08 EXPLORE<br />
HONG KONG<br />
Dim-sum dining,<br />
ballet birthday,<br />
and various vintners<br />
12 EXPLORE<br />
THE WORLD<br />
Truffl e season, coral-free<br />
jewellery and The Met’s<br />
new American Wing<br />
14 WHAT’S ON<br />
Cartier in China,<br />
golf tournaments<br />
and The Proms<br />
16 CHOICE<br />
Some like coff ee,<br />
some like tea. We<br />
like all these things<br />
EDITORIAL ADVISORY BOARD<br />
Grace Poon Mun Wong Ella Young Mandy Chau<br />
The Club is published by <strong>Cathay</strong> Pacifi c Loyalty Programmes Ltd. (CPLP)<br />
<strong>Cathay</strong> Pacifi c – The Marco Polo Club, PO Box 1024, Tsuen Wan Post<br />
Offi ce, Hong Kong. Tel +852 2747 5500 Fax +852 2537 9900. No part<br />
of this magazine may be reproduced without the written permission<br />
of CPLP Ltd. All rights reserved. Copyright 2009 by CPLP Ltd. Opinions<br />
in The Club are the writers’ and not necessarily endorsed by CPLP Ltd.<br />
Manuscripts, photographs, drawings and other materials will not be<br />
returned unless they are accompanied by a self-addressed envelope<br />
and appropriate international postal coupons. The Club cannot be held<br />
responsible for unsolicited material.<br />
38<br />
30<br />
FEATURES ON THE WING<br />
18 BESPOKE<br />
Be a patron and<br />
commission some<br />
original music<br />
24 EXPERT ADVICE<br />
Watch collectors have<br />
a good time with their<br />
obsession<br />
30 24 HOURS<br />
Modern Mumbai<br />
– a blend of<br />
new and old<br />
38 TRAVEL<br />
Ho Chi Minh City<br />
adds a twist to<br />
traditional silk<br />
44 INSIDE CX<br />
Safety is embedded in<br />
<strong>Cathay</strong> Pacifi c’s culture<br />
48 CX NEWS<br />
The Marco Polo Golf<br />
Classic and news<br />
PUBLISHED BY ACP MAGAZINES ASIA LIMITED<br />
Unit 604-5, 6/F, 625 King’s Road, Quarry Bay, Hong Kong<br />
Tel +852 3921 7000 Fax +852 3921 7099<br />
Website www.acpmagazines.com.hk Email cathay@acpmagazines.com.hk<br />
Chief Executive Offi cer Julie Sherborn • Publishing Manager Alky Cheung • Editor in Chief William Fraser • Chief Sub Editor Andy Gilbert<br />
Sub Editors Ellen Wong, Yam Yim-lan, Wang Ko-huei, John Cramer, Ling Ka-wai • Art Director Shaun Horrocks • Designer Karen Chan<br />
Photo Editors Elisa Fu, Ester Wensing • Production Manager Jimmy Tse • Assistant Production Manager Chris Wong<br />
ADVERTISING ENQUIRES<br />
ASIAN IN-FLIGHT MEDIA LIMITED<br />
Managing Director Peter Jeff ery +852 2850 4013 peterjeff ery@asianmedia.com<br />
Hong Kong, Advertisement Director (<strong>Cathay</strong> Pacifi c) Teresa Ngai +852 3106 8133 teresa@asianmedia.com<br />
Printer: Paramount Printing Company Limited<br />
12<br />
Photos. Mumbai: Jon Arnold Images/ArgusPhoto. Cushions: Peter Stuckings
MESSAGE FROM THE CLUB<br />
6 THE CLUB<br />
New advances for members<br />
Katie Rowen, Manager The Marco Polo Club<br />
T<br />
he worst of the economic<br />
downturn, we hope, may be<br />
behind us. Many of you are<br />
now travelling a little more,<br />
which is why I would like to share some<br />
recent exciting developments with you.<br />
Members who fly to Kuala Lumpur<br />
regularly may have already visited the new<br />
<strong>Cathay</strong> <strong>Pacific</strong> First and Business Class<br />
Lounge at Kuala Lumpur International<br />
Airport, which opened in June. This is the<br />
12th lounge to be upgraded in a refurbishment<br />
plan involving 14 lounges worldwide.<br />
You can now enjoy the stylish and contemporary<br />
lounge which echoes the design of<br />
our flagship lounge in Hong Kong, The Pier.<br />
Our new Kuala Lumpur lounge is almost<br />
double the size of the previous one with a<br />
new location closer to our departure gates.<br />
Sample a seat at the signature Long Table<br />
or perhaps enjoy one of seven Personal<br />
Living Spaces with full broadband and<br />
Wi-Fi access. A variety of Western and Asian<br />
cuisine is available at the food and beverage<br />
counter so you can relax while waiting<br />
for your flight.<br />
I hope many of you will have already<br />
sampled onboard <strong>Cathay</strong> <strong>Pacific</strong> flights<br />
the dishes created by members of the<br />
National Culinary Team of the Hong Kong<br />
Chefs’ Association. This extraordinary team<br />
won gold and silver medals at the 22nd<br />
IKA International Culinary Olympics in<br />
Germany in October last year and was kind<br />
enough to create 60 dishes for us to feature<br />
on our First and Business Class menus.<br />
A selection of Western appetizers,<br />
entrees and desserts prepared by the<br />
team is available on all flights departing<br />
from Hong Kong – with the exception of<br />
flights bound for Taipei and Manila. Please<br />
look out for details on your menu card.<br />
Dragonair will launch a new service to<br />
Guangzhou, the provincial capital of<br />
Guangdong and the biggest city in the<br />
fast-growing Pearl River Delta region, on<br />
14 September. The twice-daily service will<br />
provide passengers travelling between<br />
Hong Kong and Guangzhou with<br />
improved connectivity via Hong Kong to<br />
the rest of the world by further enhancing<br />
connections between Hong Kong and the<br />
Pearl River Delta. We hope you will enjoy<br />
the convenience these flights offer.<br />
Many thanks for your continued support<br />
and we look forward to welcoming you<br />
onboard again soon.
EXPLORE<br />
HONG KONG<br />
Traditional treat<br />
The tradition of dim sum has<br />
evolved with the changing<br />
lifestyles of Cantonese people.<br />
In post-war Hong Kong, it was<br />
mostly breakfast. “Many people<br />
worked in factories then and<br />
they went to work early. The<br />
steamed buns were a must<br />
because they provided energy,”<br />
says Wong Kam-sing, who for<br />
the past three decades has<br />
made dim sum for 83-yearold<br />
Lin Heung Tea House in<br />
Central. Dim sum is seen now<br />
as a lunch food but it used to<br />
be available all day.<br />
Hong Kong Wine and<br />
Dine Festival<br />
30 October-1 November<br />
www.discoverhongkong.com<br />
Picture perfect<br />
Hong Kong photographer,<br />
author and publisher Edward<br />
Stokes believes the best way<br />
to advance conservation is to<br />
show how beautiful things are.<br />
His book, Hong Kong Nature<br />
Landscapes, is a retrospective of<br />
nature and landscape photographs<br />
from 1993 to 2003, a<br />
period of awakening interest in<br />
local nature and ecology.<br />
The Photographic Heritage<br />
Foundation, which published the<br />
book, aims to locate and identify<br />
historical images of Asia in archives<br />
and private collections, to revive<br />
their context and meaning, and to<br />
publish them with historical and<br />
contemporary texts in books, on<br />
websites and at exhibitions.<br />
The foundation has already<br />
produced Hong Kong As It Was,<br />
an English edition of Stokes’<br />
best-selling book Hedda<br />
Morrison’s Hong Kong: Photographs<br />
& Impressions 1946-47.<br />
All aboard<br />
Surrounded by water and with one of the world’s<br />
great harbours, Hong Kong is ideal for sailing.<br />
Even if you have never sailed, the Royal Hong<br />
Kong Yacht Club offers sailing courses to<br />
members and non-members, from beginners<br />
to high performance and advanced<br />
skills levels. Youth training courses are for<br />
sailors aged six to nine and nine to 17.<br />
www.rhkyc.org.hk<br />
Edward Stokes shows<br />
Hong Kong’s green side<br />
The Way Alone<br />
with Nobuo Fujino,<br />
William Lin and<br />
Wu Fei-fei<br />
Sail away!
Photos. Green Hong Kong: Edward Stokes.<br />
Sailing: Guy Nowell – Royal Hong Kong Yacht Club<br />
Classic poses<br />
Little Italy<br />
GVSTO means “savour” in Italian and the recently opened Italian<br />
eatery combines patisserie, wine and coffee bars and smart casual<br />
dining all under one roof. The emphasis is on fresh, natural<br />
ingredients. The concept was created by two Italian pastry chefs<br />
20 years ago and this is their first venture in Asia. Open for a<br />
morning espresso and breakfast buffet through to lunch,<br />
afternoon tea and gourmet dinner. Monday-Saturday, 8am-8pm.<br />
GVSTO Pasticceria Ristorante, 2/F, Nexxus Building,<br />
41 Connaught Road, Central, +852 2147 3768<br />
Hong Kong Ballet celebrates its 30th anniversary<br />
with major productions that demonstrate the<br />
breadth of its repertoire.<br />
In September, the company will perform Giselle<br />
in Beijing, and Romeo and Juliet in Hong Kong the<br />
following month. In November, Hong Kong will be<br />
treated to the triple bill Symphony of Movements,<br />
which includes The Way Alone, choreographed<br />
by Stephen Baynes.<br />
Apart from the classical repertoire, the company<br />
performs many 20th-century and contemporary<br />
works by choreographers such as George<br />
Balanchine, William Forsythe and Stephen<br />
Mills. The company has 43 dancers from<br />
nine countries, including a strong core of<br />
Chinese artists, and has toured extensively<br />
since 1997.<br />
+852 2105 9724, www.hkballet.com<br />
Savour a taste of<br />
Italy at GVSTO<br />
High standards at<br />
The Upper House<br />
Upper class<br />
Feel like a stroll on the lawns of<br />
your hotel? Then take the lift to<br />
the sixth fl oor.<br />
Check out the sky lounge?<br />
Head on up to the 49th fl oor.<br />
Want to soak in a deep tub<br />
with panoramic views? Check<br />
into any of the rooms at<br />
The Upper House, the 117-room<br />
Swire hotel that opens in Pacifi c<br />
Place, Admiralty, this autumn.<br />
Hong Kong architect Andre Fu<br />
of design studio AFSO has used<br />
natural materials throughout and<br />
the proliferation of sculpture and<br />
artwork is reminiscent of the fi rst<br />
Swire hotel, The Opposite House<br />
in Beijing.<br />
Celebrated chef Gray Kunz<br />
has returned to Hong Kong to<br />
oversee Café Gray Deluxe, a<br />
21st-century “grand café” on<br />
the 49th fl oor overlooking<br />
Victoria Harbour.<br />
www.upperhouse.com<br />
THE CLUB<br />
9
EXPLORE<br />
10 THE CLUB<br />
Passion’s fruit<br />
When Swiss-born businessman<br />
Bertrand Faure-Beaulieu met<br />
sommelier Philippe Messy in<br />
Marco Pierre White’s London<br />
restaurant, it was the beginning<br />
of a relationship that Hong Kong<br />
wine lovers can now share.<br />
Messy expanded Faure-<br />
Beaulieu’s tastes and knowledge<br />
of wine and, 10 years later, this<br />
shared passion fl owered into<br />
Sarment, a private sommelier<br />
service that matches individual<br />
members to sommeliers whose<br />
personality and approach to<br />
wine complements their own<br />
tastes. The sommeliers advise<br />
on all aspects of wine buying,<br />
tasting, education, storage<br />
and investment.<br />
One of the sommeliers is<br />
Sebastien Chevalier, who<br />
created the wine cellar for<br />
Sebastien Chevalier<br />
Amber, the two-Michelin-starred<br />
restaurant in The Landmark<br />
Mandarin Oriental, Hong Kong.<br />
www.sarmentwine.com<br />
Top drop spots<br />
Since import duties and taxes<br />
on wine were abolished last<br />
year, Hong Kong has established<br />
itself as a top fi ne-winetrading<br />
hub. Here’s where to<br />
start your wine collection.<br />
Berry Bros. & Rudd<br />
Britain’s oldest wine and spirit<br />
merchant, Berry Bros. & Rudd<br />
arrived in Hong Kong more<br />
than a decade ago and opened<br />
its shop in Lee Gardens in 2003.<br />
The company’s traditional<br />
strength is Old World wines.<br />
www.bbr.com.hk<br />
Farr Vintners<br />
The largest trader of fi ne wine<br />
in Britain and of Cru Classé red<br />
Bordeaux, Farr has a wholesale<br />
business in Hong Kong and<br />
also services serious collectors<br />
buying wines by the case.<br />
Specialties include red Bordeaux<br />
and wine from Burgundy, Rhone<br />
and Champagne.<br />
www.farrvintners.com<br />
Ponti Wine Cellars<br />
Established in 1988, Ponti<br />
Wine Cellars now has four<br />
shops in Hong Kong and one<br />
in Singapore. The stores carry<br />
vintages from all key wineproducing<br />
countries, and<br />
about 40 percent are directly<br />
imported from wineries.<br />
www.ponti-fwc.com<br />
Berry Bros. & Rudd in<br />
Hong Kong<br />
Rare and Fine Wines<br />
The company has more than<br />
1,000 wines and specialises in<br />
France, particularly Bordeaux<br />
and Burgundy. Australia, New<br />
Zealand, South Africa and California<br />
are also well represented.<br />
www.rarenfi newines.com.hk<br />
Watson’s Wine Cellar<br />
With 14 wine stores across<br />
Hong Kong and online shopping,<br />
Watson’s is the territory’s<br />
most visible wine merchant. Its<br />
list includes more than 2,000<br />
wines, more than 400 of which<br />
are exclusive. Each store has its<br />
own fine-wine room with more<br />
than 300 vintages, from the top<br />
chateaux in Bordeaux to those<br />
from the New World.<br />
www.watsonswine.com<br />
Photos. Berry Bros. & Rudd: Grischa Rueschendorf
EXPLORE<br />
THE WORLD<br />
12 THE CLUB<br />
Buried treasure<br />
Autumn is truffle season in Italy<br />
and in October and November<br />
truffle fairs show the trophies<br />
sniffed out by trained dogs and<br />
the local truffle hunters.<br />
Almost every restaurant will<br />
have truffles on the menu in<br />
some form. Alba in Piedemonte<br />
is famous for its white truffles.<br />
The International White Truffle<br />
Fair of Alba will be held from<br />
3 October to 8 November.<br />
The countryside around San<br />
Miniato in Tuscany produces<br />
about 25 percent of Italy’s<br />
truffles. The San Miniato White<br />
Truffle Fair is held in the last<br />
three weeks of November.<br />
Smaller towns nearby hold fairs<br />
in October.<br />
Other truffl e areas include the<br />
Marche and Umbria regions.<br />
www.fi eradeltartufo.org/en<br />
www.san-miniato.com<br />
Italy’s<br />
white<br />
gold<br />
Tropical paradise<br />
Imagine a candle-lit banquet<br />
where the rainforest meets the<br />
sea in the far north of Australia.<br />
In a pocket of tropical rainforest<br />
near Port Douglas, north<br />
of Cairns, Flames of the Forest<br />
combines fi ne food and wine,<br />
aboriginal culture and a unique<br />
natural setting.<br />
Illuminated by hundreds of<br />
candles and chandeliers as well<br />
as theatrically lit forest, diners<br />
are entertained by members of<br />
local aboriginal tribes.<br />
www.fl amesoftheforest.com.au<br />
Handel’s<br />
baroque suite<br />
Aboriginal tales in<br />
Flames of the Forest<br />
Handel with care<br />
George Frideric Handel was born in Germany but spent most of his<br />
life in England. From 1723 until his death in 1759 he lived at 25 Brook<br />
Street, Mayfair, London, in what is now Handel House, the museum<br />
devoted to him and where he composed works such as Music for the<br />
Royal Fireworks. This year is the 250th anniversary of Handel’s death.<br />
www.handelhouse.org
Court in the act:<br />
the Met’s new<br />
American Wing<br />
American<br />
beauties<br />
The new American Wing at<br />
The Metropolitan Museum<br />
of Art in New York City has<br />
opened after two years of<br />
renovation. The Charles<br />
Engelhard Court is a massive<br />
glassed pavilion that houses<br />
American furniture and<br />
architectural details as well as<br />
jewellery and decorative arts<br />
that span from the baroque<br />
era of the 17th century to the<br />
early 20th century.<br />
The space is so enormous<br />
that features such as a loggia<br />
designed by Louis Comfort<br />
Tiff any, monumental sculptures,<br />
fountains and Frank<br />
Lloyd Wright stained glass<br />
windows can all be displayed.<br />
The 20 period rooms demonstrate<br />
domestic architecture<br />
and interior design of every<br />
era from the 17th to the 20th<br />
century. Twelve of the rooms<br />
have been renovated and<br />
interactive computer screens<br />
explain the details.<br />
www.metmuseum.org<br />
Photos. Truffle: Alessandro Garofalo – Reuters<br />
Shining examples<br />
Coral has long been a favourite<br />
material of jewellers, but it’s not<br />
a rock – it’s the external skeleton<br />
of living organisms. It provides<br />
food and shelter for fi sh and its<br />
continued existence is vital to<br />
healthy oceans.<br />
Too Precious to Wear is a<br />
campaign organised by nonprofi<br />
t group SeaWeb which<br />
works with infl uential fashion<br />
and design leaders to raise<br />
awareness about coral and<br />
to encourage consumers to<br />
keep it in the ocean. Tiff any &<br />
Co. stopped using red coral in<br />
jewellery some time ago as part<br />
Coral-free brooch<br />
by Paloma Picasso<br />
of its commitment to obtaining<br />
precious metals and stones in<br />
environmentally and socially<br />
responsible ways.<br />
The Coral Reinterpreted collection<br />
has examples of alternative<br />
materials such as lacquered metal,<br />
glass, resin and plastics.<br />
tooprecioustowear.org<br />
World at your feet<br />
Enjoy the high life at new chic restaurant ZENSE Gourmet Deck &<br />
Lounge Panorama in Bangkok. On the 17th fl oor of new entertainment<br />
and lifestyle mecca ZEN World, it has a giant outdoor terrace with<br />
spectacular panoramic views of downtown Bangkok.<br />
www.zensebangkok.com<br />
Point of view<br />
THE CLUB<br />
13
WHAT’S ON<br />
AUTUMN<br />
EVENTS<br />
14 THE CLUB<br />
Singalong:<br />
Last Night<br />
of the Proms<br />
AUGUST<br />
21-30 August<br />
Melbourne Writers’<br />
Festival<br />
Melbourne<br />
Hear Bernard Schlink,<br />
author of The Reader,<br />
novelist and Asia commentator<br />
Ian Buruma,<br />
historian Anthony<br />
Beevor and hundreds<br />
of other writers at<br />
Melbourne’s biggest<br />
literary event.<br />
www.mwf.com.au<br />
25-30 August<br />
Yonex Open<br />
Chinese Taipei 2009<br />
Taipei<br />
Highlight of the Taipei<br />
badminton calendar.<br />
www.international<br />
badminton.org<br />
SEPTEMBER<br />
5 September-<br />
7 February 2010<br />
Silk and Bamboo:<br />
Music and Art of China<br />
Metropolitan Museum<br />
of Art, New York City<br />
Instruments and art<br />
show the continuing<br />
importance of music<br />
in Chinese culture.<br />
www.metmuseum.org<br />
12 September<br />
Last Night of the Proms<br />
Royal Albert Hall,<br />
London<br />
Pomp and Circumstance<br />
and other great tunes.<br />
www.bbc.co.uk/proms/2009<br />
5 September-22 November<br />
Cartier Treasures: King of<br />
Jewellers, Jewellers to Kings<br />
Beijing Palace Museum, Forbidden City, Beijing<br />
Big jewels, lots of them: 346 individual pieces from<br />
Cartier – jeweller to the rich and historically famous.<br />
About a quarter of the show traces the Chinese<br />
infl uence on design and choice of materials.<br />
www.cartier.com/en<br />
Tempting treasure:<br />
Snake necklace,<br />
1968, by Cartier<br />
Photos. Maharaja: V & A Images. BBC Proms: Mark Allan – WireImage/Getty Images.<br />
Sergio Garcia: Qilai Shen – epa/Corbis.
18 September-<br />
4 January 2010<br />
Titian, Tintoretto,<br />
Veronese: Rivals in<br />
Renaissance Venice<br />
Musée du Louvre,<br />
Paris<br />
Masterpieces from old<br />
master painters.<br />
www.louvre.fr<br />
18-22 September<br />
Lakmé Fashion Week<br />
Spring Summer 2010<br />
Grand Hyatt,<br />
Mumbai<br />
Indian plumage on<br />
display at the 10th-<br />
anniversary parades.<br />
www.lakmefashion<br />
week. co.in<br />
Procession of Raja Ram Singh II at the V&A’s<br />
Maharaja exhibition<br />
26 September-<br />
3 January 2010<br />
Edward Steichen:<br />
In High Fashion, the<br />
Condé Nast Years,<br />
1923-1937<br />
Art Gallery of Ontario,<br />
Toronto<br />
When glamour fashion<br />
photography was black<br />
and white.<br />
www.ago.net<br />
OCTOBER<br />
8-16 October<br />
Pusan International<br />
Film Festival<br />
South Korea<br />
Asia’s most signifi cant<br />
fi lm festival and launch<br />
pad for many Asian<br />
movie careers.<br />
www.piff .org<br />
10 October-<br />
17 January 2010<br />
Maharaja: The<br />
Splendour of<br />
India’s Royal Courts<br />
Victoria and Albert<br />
Museum, London<br />
The dazzling treasures<br />
of princely India from<br />
the Mughal Empire’s<br />
collapse in the early<br />
18th century to 1947.<br />
www.vam.ac.uk<br />
GOLFING EVENTS<br />
NOVEMBER<br />
4-6 November<br />
Hong Kong<br />
International Wine<br />
& Spirits Fair<br />
Hong Kong Convention<br />
and Exhibition Centre,<br />
Wan Chai, Hong Kong<br />
Asia’s wine hub on show.<br />
http://hkwinefair.hktdc.com<br />
9-15 November<br />
Yonex-Sunrise<br />
Hong Kong Open<br />
Badminton Super<br />
Series 2009<br />
Queen Elizabeth Stadium,<br />
Wan Chai, Hong Kong<br />
Feathers fly at the year’s<br />
big badminton event.<br />
www.hkbadmintonassn.<br />
org.hk/en<br />
Sergio Garcia,<br />
winner of the<br />
2008 World Golf<br />
Championships-<br />
HSBC Champions<br />
24-27 September: Qingdao Golf Open Qingdao Huashan Golf & Resort, Qingdao.<br />
www.europeantour.com<br />
23-25 October: China LPGA (venue to be announced). www.lpga.com<br />
29 October-1 November: Barclays Singapore Open Sentosa Golf Club,<br />
Sentosa, Singapore. www.barclayssingaporeopen.com<br />
30 October-1 November: Suzhou Taihu Ladies Open Suzhou Taihu International Golf<br />
Club, Shanghai. www.ladieseuropeantour.com<br />
5-8 November: World Golf Championships-HSBC Champions Sheshan International<br />
Golf Club, Shanghai. www.hsbcgolf.com<br />
12-15 November: UBS Hong Kong Open Hong Kong Golf Club, Sheung Shui,<br />
New Terrritories, Hong Kong. www.ubshongkongopen.com<br />
6-8 November: The Marco Polo Club Golf Classic 2009. Please see page 48 for details.<br />
THE CLUB<br />
15
CHOICE<br />
CREATIVE BLENDS<br />
Tea and coffee have been so integrated into cultures around the world<br />
that specific ceremonies evolved with implements created by artists<br />
and craftsmen. Contemporary designers continue the long tradition.<br />
16 THE CLUB<br />
Transparent tea<br />
The glass and stainless-steel<br />
mono classic teapot and infuser<br />
was created for mono in 1983 by<br />
German homeware designer<br />
Tassilo von Grolman.<br />
www.mono.de<br />
White with one, thanks<br />
In pure white at room temperature, put the one tea<br />
kettle on the stove (gas or electric) and see the blue<br />
pattern emerge as the water heats up. Grasp by the<br />
insulated neck, place on the magnetic trivet and<br />
it’s ready to pour or set down on any surface.<br />
www.vesselideation.com/one.html<br />
Bark opus<br />
Burnished bark of the cherry<br />
tree is used in this Japanese<br />
tea canister, which is so finely<br />
made that it’s air-tight to<br />
preserve the tea.<br />
www.teavana.com/Tea-Products/<br />
Tea-Storage-Tins/<br />
Short black<br />
Be a barista at home with the<br />
Krups XP4020-Expert pump<br />
espresso coffee-maker. This<br />
domestic model scores well<br />
on the quality of espresso<br />
made and ease of use.<br />
www.krups.co.uk<br />
Photos: Yixing teapot: Phototime
Froth and bubble<br />
Want to create the perfect<br />
cappuccino froth at home? Try<br />
the Bodum Mousse Electric Milk<br />
Frother to add volume and panache<br />
to your coffee-press cuppa.<br />
www.bodumusa.com<br />
The colour purple<br />
The purple clay from Yixing in Jiangsu Province is made into unglazed<br />
pots that are sought after by connoisseurs of fine Chinese tea.<br />
www.teapot-collection.com<br />
With a twist<br />
WALO1 is a set of mirror<br />
stainless-steel coffee spoons by<br />
English architect and designer<br />
William Alsop for Italian homeware<br />
brand Officina Alessi.<br />
www.alessi.com/en<br />
Living legend<br />
The Sultane is one of a range of hand-blown glass teapots from legendary<br />
French tea merchant Mariage Frères, whose origins can be traced to the<br />
17th century. The shop in the Marais district of Paris is a shrine for tea<br />
lovers and embodies a museum. www.mariagefreres.com<br />
THE CLUB<br />
17
BESPOKE<br />
18 THE CLUB<br />
Commissioned work has<br />
been the lifeblood of<br />
The Hong Kong Chinese<br />
Orchestra for decades<br />
Fine tunes<br />
B Y A N D R E A L I<br />
Individuals are increasingly commissioning music to mark special occasions<br />
ong Kong-born composer Lam<br />
Fung, at the age of 27, was one of<br />
the youngest Chinese composers<br />
to be commissioned by the BBC. His<br />
piece, Unlocking, took inspiration<br />
from an exhibition of padlocks he<br />
saw at London’s Victoria and Albert<br />
Museum, and explored themes<br />
of codes, secrets and locks. Lam<br />
is one of the relatively few Asian<br />
composers who have worked with<br />
individuals who commission music.<br />
“I personally always welcome talking to my commissioners<br />
before I start working on the music as more often than not I fi nd<br />
inspiration from them, be it the reasons behind the commission<br />
or from their own interests or background,” Lam says.<br />
Although Hong Kong has seen funding cuts to the arts,<br />
private contribution to new music remains largely elusive.<br />
Private commissions are very unusual, says Timothy Calnin,<br />
the retiring Chief Executive of the Hong Kong Philharmonic<br />
Orchestra (HKPO). “I can only think of two instances in the<br />
past fi ve years. People just aren’t aware that this is something<br />
they can do, but I think it will take off with time.” In 2009, the<br />
HKPO launched a three-year commissioning programme to<br />
attract funding from foundations and individuals.<br />
Even the Hong Kong Chinese Orchestra (HKCO), an active<br />
underwriter of new works, says none of its commissions has<br />
been funded by private individuals. “Private contributions are<br />
usually made towards individual concerts or education and<br />
research. It would be great if we had sponsorship specifi cally for<br />
new works,” says Celina Chin, the orchestra’s Executive Director,<br />
adding that commissioning has been the orchestra’s lifeblood<br />
for several decades. Unlike Western classical music, Chinese<br />
orchestral music only has a 50- to 60-year history. However, the<br />
HKCO commissions more than 10 pieces of new music and<br />
re-arranges more than 30 works each year.<br />
“The philosophy of commissioning is very important,” says<br />
the HKPO’s Calnin. “It is necessary in order to keep the art form<br />
contemporary and relevant. Otherwise orchestras will just be<br />
playing the music of dead white guys all the time.”<br />
When she was relatively young and unknown, Hong<br />
Kong-born composer Angel Lam began to work with New<br />
York City’s famous Carnegie Hall. Clive Gillinson, Carnegie<br />
Hall’s Executive and Artistic Director, says the hall has used
THE CLUB<br />
19
BESPOKE<br />
20 THE CLUB<br />
commissioning to tap new and established talent. Lam’s<br />
second commission for Carnegie Hall, Awakening from a<br />
Disappearing Garden, will premier at its festival of Chinese<br />
culture, Ancient Paths, Modern Voices, from 21 October to<br />
10 November.<br />
Individual commissions have gained growing popularity in<br />
Europe, Australia and the United States over the past decade<br />
as classical-music enthusiasts catch on to the concept.<br />
When Australians Jenny Kena and her former partner<br />
Colin Gray made money on several property deals, they<br />
could have splashed out on any number of luxuries. But the<br />
couple instead chose to commission Oma Kodu, an Estoniainspired<br />
clarinet quintet.<br />
“This was an opportunity to support a diff erent branch<br />
of the arts and was something that would last forever,”<br />
CARNEGIE HALL USED COMMISSIONING<br />
TO TAP NEW AND ESTABLISHED TALENT<br />
says Kena, whose father was Estonian. “To me, the experience<br />
was value for money. I got so much back from it. It is a gratifying<br />
feeling to know that this music wouldn’t be in existence if<br />
it weren’t for me. Not only that, it can now be appreciated by<br />
a wider group of people and can add to the body of work in<br />
Australian music.”<br />
It takes a special type of person to commission music, says<br />
Richard Gill, the Music Director of Australia’s Victorian Opera.<br />
“It is unlike anything else. The result is not tangible so it<br />
requires people to think outside the box. A typical patron is well<br />
educated, appreciates the artistic life and values the importance<br />
of the arts to the life of the community. You are sponsoring<br />
immortality. It just doesn’t get any better than that.”<br />
In growing numbers, individuals are commissioning music<br />
for celebratory reasons – a wedding anniversary milestone,<br />
Angel Lam<br />
(left) was<br />
commissioned<br />
to write a piece<br />
for Carnegie<br />
Hall (above)
Lam Fung<br />
(below) is<br />
inspired by<br />
those who<br />
commission<br />
him to write<br />
a spouse’s 60th birthday, in memory of a beloved family<br />
member and as a gesture of philanthropy.<br />
Geoff Ainsworth, a professional investor in Sydney, who<br />
has underwritten new music in Australia since 2001, says he<br />
is driven by the excitement of contributing to the existing<br />
repertoire. “The gratifi cation comes from knowing you have<br />
done a good thing for music and society. We don’t know<br />
who the next great composer is, but the only way to fi nd out<br />
is to give composers the opportunity to compose.” In 2004,<br />
Ainsworth and his wife Vicki commissioned String Quartet<br />
No. 4, a 15-minute string quartet from Musica Viva Australia<br />
in celebration of composer Carl Vine’s birthday, with support<br />
from the Melbourne-based Ian Potter Foundation.<br />
Private patronage is, of course, not new. Prior to the accessibility<br />
of public funds, composers such as Mozart, Beethoven<br />
and Bach depended on the generosity of the aristocracy.<br />
Today, with tightened government budgets and a growing<br />
stable of talent, private money is once again in the limelight,<br />
becoming ever pivotal to the development of new music.<br />
“My impression is that a great deal of commissioning<br />
once done by the Australian government has diminished,”<br />
says Vine, Artistic Director of Musica Viva, an organisation<br />
that helps individuals with the commissioning process. “This<br />
has resulted in the importance of private patrons.”<br />
Similar instances are unfolding elsewhere. Ed Harsh is<br />
the President of Meet the Composer, a New York-based<br />
organisation that champions new music. He says half of all<br />
its support for commissions in the past eight years has been<br />
funded by individuals. Past patrons have included a venture<br />
capitalist, a doctor and a university professor. Commissioning<br />
clubs are also sprouting up throughout the US, galvanising<br />
individuals to bankroll pieces of work, en masse, and<br />
making patronage accessible and aff ordable. Meet the<br />
Composer is now looking at the feasibility of taking the<br />
commissioning club model online by establishing a website<br />
of new projects (www.meetthecomposer.org) for anyone<br />
to browse and sponsor.<br />
Selecting a composer is only half the story. Australian<br />
Andrew Ford says the composer and patron need to identify<br />
the performers for the piece upfront otherwise the commission<br />
will just remain musical notes on a page.<br />
“Knowing who the performer is also helps me to write,” says<br />
Ford, who composed Oma Kodu. “A private commission is a<br />
lovely experience for the composer. The endeavour is more<br />
personal and genuine. It’s nice to know the person paying for<br />
your work is also a fan of your music.”<br />
Or at least they should be. Identifying a composer can be<br />
an exhaustive process. The search requires the patron to be<br />
familiar with the work of the composer and to ensure some<br />
level of compatibility with the individual. The framework of<br />
“WHEN PEOPLE COMMISSION ME,<br />
THEY TRUST MY ARTISTIC SENSE”<br />
Photo. Andrew Ford and music sheet: Steve Baccon – Contacts Photography. Carnegie Hall (previous page): Jeff Goldberg-Esto
“IT’S NICE TO KNOW<br />
THE PERSON PAYING<br />
FOR YOUR WORK IS A<br />
FAN OF YOUR MUSIC”<br />
the piece, involving issues such as instrumentation, budget<br />
and theme, is then worked out.<br />
Commissioning fees are largely arbitrary and depend on<br />
the composer’s reputation and the scale of work. The ballpark<br />
range in Australia is somewhere between AUD2,000<br />
(about HKD12,300) to AUD40,000 while costs in the US span<br />
from USD1,700 to USD400,000 for a full-length opera.<br />
“We tell patrons that they are never commissioning the<br />
composer’s last piece, but always their next piece so there<br />
is a certain element of risk involved,” says Harsh. “At the end<br />
of the day it is the composer’s responsibility to fi nd their<br />
own comfort level and make the decision to turn down the<br />
project if they feel their style is being encroached upon.”<br />
Instances of projects going awry are few and far between.<br />
Patrons generally respect commissioning etiquette and have<br />
a good grasp of what the composer can and cannot do.<br />
Lam Fung says: “When people commission me, they<br />
trust my artistic sense. They would not be requesting me<br />
to compose something that sounds like someone else, but<br />
rather they would prefer me to take inspiration from them<br />
and supply them with something exciting and surprising.<br />
What’s the fun if you know exactly what you’re going to get<br />
when you’re commissioning an artist? Part of the excitement<br />
about commissioning a new piece of music is the<br />
fact that you don’t know what exactly you are getting.”<br />
For Ainsworth, his personal opinion is not relevant. “It<br />
doesn’t matter whether or not I like the piece,” he says. ‘‘I know<br />
Making notes:<br />
Australian<br />
composer<br />
Andrew Ford<br />
writes scores<br />
by hand<br />
(above left)<br />
I will still appreciate the music and it will still be something fresh<br />
to my ear. Most important is the motivation behind my commission.<br />
I am not funding the composer to write something I<br />
like, but want to play a role in contributing to new music.”<br />
Artistic directors who commission on a broader scale<br />
agree. “The risk of commissioning is such that you have<br />
no idea whether the work will be disappointing or utterly<br />
exhilarating,” says Carnegie Hall’s Gillinson.<br />
“But if you look at the music of any composer, the reality is,<br />
even music that’s less good is almost always worth hearing.<br />
Chances are you are still getting something important. It’s<br />
just a question of how important.”<br />
BESPOKE<br />
THE CLUB<br />
23
EXPERT ADVICE<br />
IN
BY TARA JENKINS & KAREN PITTAR<br />
GOOD TIME<br />
Step by step:<br />
Gordon Chung has<br />
been collecting<br />
watches for 18 years<br />
The thrill is in the chase for passionate watch collectors who enjoy<br />
spending quality time tracking down rare models<br />
The pride of international marketer Andrew<br />
McDonald’s sizeable watch collection is a<br />
1963 Glycine Airman 24-hour watch. “It still<br />
has its original box with a letter from its<br />
owner inside, a United States Air Force pilot,<br />
stating he wore it on 280 fl ight missions in<br />
his F-4 in Vietnam. He was shot down over<br />
the Gulf of Tonkin and safely ejected wearing this very watch.”<br />
For countless watch fans the world over, fi nding a special<br />
piece like McDonald’s has more to do with the thrill of the<br />
chase and owning a rare piece than the monetary value of<br />
the watch. It’s a passion, for some an obsession.<br />
Hong Kong-based collector Gordon Chung says he<br />
looks for unusual pieces, shapes and mechanics, rather<br />
than buying particular brand names. “It’s my hobby. It’s<br />
what I do at the weekend. Finding a special watch is like<br />
winning a prize; it’s very satisfying. I like the complications, the<br />
mechanics and, of course, the history. I like to read about the<br />
era of the watch, how people were dressed at that time and<br />
how they’d wear their watches. A lot of watches have engravings<br />
on the back with people’s names and sometimes even<br />
addresses. It’s like holding a piece of history in your hand.”<br />
One of his favourite pieces is a 200-year-old double-cased<br />
pocket watch he bought in London. The piece is silver and<br />
opens up to reveal an intricately carved and decorative inner<br />
gold mechanism. When Chung fi rst prised open the back of<br />
the watch, a lock of golden hair fell into his hand. “The hair was<br />
cradled by part of a newspaper from the 1800s. At that time it<br />
was very common to put your relative’s hair inside your watch<br />
for good luck.”<br />
Chung’s zeal for watch collecting began 18 years ago when<br />
he was working for an advertising agency which held the Gérald<br />
Genta account. “One day I was asked to take a watch to be<br />
photographed. As I put it in my inside jacket pocket I casually<br />
asked how much it was worth. I was shocked to discover it<br />
was the equivalent of my annual salary. I held my hand over<br />
my jacket pocket for the entire taxi ride – I’m sure the driver<br />
thought I was having a heart attack.”<br />
Today Chung has a collection of more than 100 watches –<br />
each meticulously maintained and lovingly stored in a suedelined<br />
leather box – and he’s one of a growing band of watch<br />
afi cionados in Asia. “There is huge growth in collecting,” says<br />
Tim Bourne, International Co-Head of Christie’s watch department.<br />
“Numbers have gone up in such a dramatic way from 1990<br />
when watches were just starting to become a signifi cant global<br />
collecting area. Now there are buyers participating in auctions<br />
THE CLUB<br />
25
EXPERT ADVICE<br />
Gordon Chung<br />
began his collection<br />
with this pocket<br />
watch featuring i<br />
an inscription dated<br />
Christmas Day, 1901<br />
26 THE CLUB<br />
“NAMES SSUCH<br />
AS ROLEX,<br />
CARTIER AND<br />
PATEK PHILIPPE<br />
RU RULE THE ROOST”<br />
watch<br />
pocket except Ltd., Images Christie's Photos.<br />
on the phone, phone, “Some of the rarer ra and most fascinating pieces were<br />
on the Internet customised, uniq unique models. For example, Patek Philippe<br />
– it’s like a huge deal-<br />
may have made four f or fi ve pieces for a very special client<br />
ing room around the world.<br />
who perhaps requested req something in steel, or a perpetual<br />
Within Christie’s alone we were<br />
calendar, somethin something that wasn’t part of the normal collection.”<br />
probably seeing an annual turnover 10 years ago of It is these pieces that command some of the highest prices<br />
USD10 million, but last year we saw annual sales of at auction.<br />
USD80 million – an 800 percent increase. The past<br />
McDonald has a list of classic watches he hopes to add<br />
10 years have been very significant in Asia. It is almost<br />
to his collection,<br />
and regularly buys from auction houses,<br />
becoming the most important venue for watch sales Internet sites and specialist watch sellers. “Each week I search<br />
and Asian collectors themselves are not only buying in through through websites website and I look at new and pre-owned watch<br />
Asia but are having a huge impact on international sales.”<br />
shops shops wherever I travel. I bought my daughter a Jaeger-<br />
Bourne says you don’t need to be wealthy to collect,<br />
LeCoultre Reverso Revers for her 21st birthday but I still don’t have<br />
although there are those who are intent on buying only the<br />
one myself. I would wo also like a Patek Philippe 1940s Calatrava,<br />
big names. “Names such as Rolex, Cartier C i and d Patek Philippe Rolex Explorer 1016, 10 IWC Ingenieur, Cartier Tank, Grand Seiko<br />
really do rule the roost at the high end of the market. We manual wind with Dauphine hands and no date. In all<br />
pretty regularly sell examples of Patek Philippe watches honesty, the list goes on and on.”<br />
for more than USD1 million. Obviously when somebody is Hong Kong businessman Dickson Wong has about 30<br />
paying a huge amount of money the rarity of a particular watches in his collection, including pieces by Patek Philippe,<br />
piece is paramount – the model, a certain design, very Audemars Piguet, Vacheron Constantin, Rolex and Piaget. “My<br />
unique pieces or a small production run is very desirable favourite is the Patek Philippe 5050 Perpetual Calendar which<br />
to collectors.”<br />
I bought some eight years ago for HKD300,000,” he says. “I like<br />
Bourne explains that with modern watches the more watches with grand complications [more than three functions].<br />
complicated and grander the watch, the higher the value, They are very difficult to make and the craftsmanship is<br />
but with vintage it comes down to rarity and uniqueness. extremely detailed. A dealer told me it takes many man-hours<br />
and photos previous page: Marcus Oleniuk
Christie’s<br />
Tim Bourne<br />
(right) has<br />
seen dramatic<br />
growth in the<br />
watch market<br />
to make a Patek Philippe, and the craftsmen’s wages increase<br />
year after year, so the value of such a watch increases accordingly.<br />
You will never lose your money on a rare watch. Patek<br />
Philippe only makes a few models and discontinues them after<br />
a few years, so the only place to buy them is at auction. As a<br />
collector, it makes sense to go out and buy the watches you<br />
think are going to be discontinued.”<br />
Although Wong invests in high-end pieces, there is also<br />
a sentimental side to his collecting because he grew up<br />
surrounded by watches: his father was Hong Kong’s sole agent for<br />
Longines for more than 20 years. “The fi rst watch I owned<br />
was a Longines, given to me by my father 30 years ago<br />
when I went to the US to study. Of course I still have<br />
the watch. I bought my fi rst piece in Tallinn, Estonia.<br />
I was on holiday and walked into an antique<br />
shop and found an H. Moser & Cie with an enamel face and<br />
gold cover. When it chimes it plays music; I guess it’s between<br />
50 and 100 years old. Now I buy watches all over the world<br />
including Hong Kong, London and Switzerland. Whenever I<br />
travel I’m on the lookout for special pieces.”<br />
Wong and Chung belong to Hong Kong collectors’ club<br />
The Art of Time, run by the Federation of the Swiss Watch<br />
Industry. Chung says the members are watch lovers who want<br />
to share their passion and look at each other’s collections.<br />
“We’re like a community,” he says.<br />
Wong agrees: “We have meetings once every two months,<br />
and a speaker – such as a watch producer from Europe – comes<br />
and gives us a sneak preview, sometimes even before the watch<br />
has come onto the market. It’s a great venue to be able to meet<br />
and speak to other watch collectors.”<br />
A rare 14K gold<br />
chronograph<br />
Rolex (left), sold<br />
at Christie’s for<br />
HKD787,500 in<br />
2007. A white-gold<br />
bracelet watch with<br />
340 diamonds<br />
(far left) by Patek<br />
Philippe, sold for<br />
HKD1,220,000 in<br />
May this year<br />
Vacheron<br />
Constantin’s<br />
Malte Tonneau<br />
openwork<br />
tourbillon,<br />
changed<br />
hands for<br />
HKD884,000<br />
in May
EXPERT ADVICE<br />
28 THE CLUB<br />
Oiseaux des<br />
Blés gilded<br />
brass table<br />
clock sold for<br />
HKD1,040,000<br />
at Christie’s<br />
in May, a<br />
world auction<br />
record for a<br />
Patek Philippe<br />
dome clock<br />
<strong>FINE</strong> DETAILS<br />
Serious collectors inevitably face expenses when it<br />
comes to the storage, maintenance and insurance of<br />
watches, especially with antique or old pieces.<br />
“If people spend a huge amount of money on a<br />
watch collection, they should defi nitely insure it,” says<br />
Tim Bourne, International Co-Head of Christie’s watch<br />
department. “It’s dramatic how much collectors will<br />
actually spend on watches. I’ve met people who have<br />
spent in excess of USD10 million on a watch. They<br />
must be regarded as works of art and treated<br />
as such. If you want to keep the value of<br />
the watch intact, store it in its original<br />
bag or box, although often people<br />
are torn because they want to wear<br />
it. But there are some collectors<br />
who don’t even dare to open the<br />
box, in case the piece loses value.”<br />
Bourne says watches are not like<br />
wine and can withstand fl uctuations<br />
in temperature and humidity.<br />
Watch afi cionado Dickson Wong<br />
keeps the majority of his collection<br />
in a safe-deposit box at a bank. “I<br />
do keep some at home to wear<br />
and I have them all serviced maybe<br />
once every two years,” he says.<br />
A pink gold automatic skeletonised<br />
tourbillion by Cartier, one of a<br />
limited edition of 25, sold for<br />
HKD740,000 last year<br />
When collector Gordon Chung buys an antique or<br />
second-hand watch, he has it serviced immediately.<br />
“If after a week it doesn’t work I take it back to where I<br />
bought it. I like my watches to be clean and shiny. Some<br />
people prefer their watches to look old, but I like mine to<br />
look new. I take them to be gold-plated so I can restore<br />
them to their original condition. When you buy a watch,<br />
always try to buy it in its original case because it boosts<br />
the value.”<br />
To keep the cost of maintenance to a minimum,<br />
Chung suggests thoroughly examining a watch before<br />
handing over your money. “When you fi nd an antique<br />
watch, check the time and lay it down on the shop<br />
counter. Wait for half an hour, check to ensure the time<br />
is correct and then turn it over. Again, wait half an hour<br />
and see is it fast or slow. If it is slow on both sides, or<br />
fast on both sides, it’s probably easy to fi x. If it’s slow,<br />
for example, it means the lubricant has become old and<br />
viscous, which slows down the watch. But if it’s slow on<br />
one side and fast on the other, you’re in trouble – don’t<br />
buy it!”<br />
Chung suggests shopping for watches at antiques<br />
markets and shops, rather than buying directly from a<br />
dealer. His fi nal piece of advice is practical: “I always carry<br />
a special Swiss Army knife with watch tools and I never go<br />
anywhere without my magnifying glass.”<br />
Photos. Christie's Images Ltd..
24 HOURS<br />
7pm<br />
THE HEART OF MUMBAI beats in<br />
Colaba at its southernmost tip. The<br />
city’s characteristic love for newness<br />
has especially animated this neighbourhood,<br />
which is packed with hotels<br />
and restaurants, boutiques and curio<br />
stores, nightclubs and bars.<br />
Colaba’s Taj Mahal Palace & Tower<br />
faces the historic Gateway of India,<br />
Mumbai’s most famous landmark, and<br />
is the last word in hotel luxury. Apart<br />
from Trident, which is the Taj Mahal<br />
Palace’s closest competitor, you could<br />
opt for The Ambassador, the InterContinental<br />
Marine Drive Mumbai or Hotel<br />
Marine Plaza.<br />
Colaba’s numerous restaurants serve<br />
either Indian interpretations of Chinese<br />
cuisine or continental and Southeast<br />
Asian dishes. For a taste of what the locals<br />
feast on, sample the vegetarian and<br />
non-vegetarian Indian cuisine at Masala<br />
BY JUGNU MALIK<br />
24 HOURS<br />
Mumbai<br />
From the splendour of Colaba’s heritage to the all-night entertainment along<br />
Marine Drive and traditional spa pampering, India’s west-coast city has it all<br />
30 THE CLUB<br />
Kraft at the Taj Mahal Palace & Tower.<br />
The restaurant is located on the ground<br />
fl oor of the hotel’s magnifi cent heritage<br />
wing, which was built in 1903 and faces<br />
the Gateway of India.<br />
Wash down dinner with a drink or<br />
three at one of the well-appointed<br />
bars in Colaba and Marine Drive. At the<br />
head of the list is the InterContinental’s<br />
Dome. The rooftop bar has a panoramic<br />
view of the city’s high-rises and actionpacked<br />
streets – and the ocean.<br />
Photo. AWL Images/ArgusPhoto
Gateway of India<br />
from the Taj Mahal<br />
Palace & Tower hotel
24 HOURS<br />
32 THE CLUB<br />
Watch the sun set<br />
from Dome at the<br />
InterContinental<br />
Marine Drive<br />
Mumbai<br />
Later head to Busaba, which has<br />
low-lit interiors and a low-key vibe, or<br />
Henry Tham’s, a sleek lounge bar with<br />
an inhouse DJ who knows just how to<br />
set the mood.<br />
Indigo Deli, across the street from<br />
Henry Tham’s, is better known for its<br />
salads and sandwiches, but it is worth<br />
a visit for its cocktails, which mix the<br />
liquor with ingredients typically used<br />
in Indian meals, such as tamarind and<br />
curry leaves.<br />
Mumbai has more bars than dance<br />
clubs (mainly because of prohibitive<br />
real-estate rates) but if you want to<br />
move like the Mumbaiites do, head to<br />
Polly Esther’s, one of the last refuges of<br />
disco. Polly Esther’s interiors are proud<br />
to be described as groovy, from the polka-dotted<br />
shirts the waiters wear to the<br />
record sleeves tacked onto the walls.<br />
Also in Colaba is the Red Light club,<br />
where the city’s young and restless<br />
bounce and bop to hip hop.<br />
Midnight<br />
MUMBAI SHUTS DOWN much earlier<br />
than most other big cities in the<br />
world, but there’s no time limit at the<br />
Marine Drive promenade. If there’s<br />
one image of Mumbai you want to<br />
embed in your mind, it is the sight of<br />
structures twinkling across the bay all<br />
along the curve of the promenade,<br />
earning the stretch its well-deserved<br />
nickname, The Queen’s Necklace.<br />
Photos. Museum: Alamy/ArgusPhoto.<br />
Chowpatty Beach: Hemis/ArgusPhoto.<br />
InterContinental: AWL Images/ArgusPhoto.
8am<br />
WORK UP an appetite with a walk<br />
along the Arabian Sea either at Colaba<br />
or at Marine Drive. Facing the bobbing<br />
boats in the waters off Colaba are<br />
stately heritage buildings and low-rise<br />
apartments. Across the sea at Marine<br />
Drive are buildings constructed in the<br />
Art Deco style, much like in Miami.<br />
Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj<br />
Vastu Sangrahalaya<br />
museum is an<br />
architectural delight<br />
Eggs Florentine<br />
at Indigo Deli,<br />
a perfect start<br />
to the day<br />
Chowpatty<br />
Beach<br />
9am<br />
INDIGO DELI offers local versions of<br />
eggs Benedict and eggs Florentine<br />
and couscous upma, which mixes a<br />
local semolina-based dish with couscous<br />
and nuts. Frangipani at Trident<br />
offers a sake bento breakfast served<br />
in red lacquered boxes imported<br />
from Japan.<br />
11am<br />
MUMBAI HAS only two museums<br />
worth the trouble. One of them is<br />
in Colaba and goes by the ungainly<br />
name of Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj<br />
Vastu Sangrahalaya. The architectural<br />
landmark has 30,000 artefacts,<br />
a sliver of which can be accessed via<br />
a 45-minute audio tour. Spare some<br />
time for the gallery of exquisite Indian<br />
miniature paintings.<br />
Mumbai’s other museum of signifi -<br />
cance lies some distance from Colaba,<br />
in the south-central Byculla neighbourhood.<br />
The city of Mumbai itself<br />
is on display at the 152-year-old Dr<br />
Bhaudaji Lad Mumbai City Museum.<br />
The restored building and the quirky<br />
selection of artefacts that showcase<br />
Mumbai’s diverse communities and<br />
occupations make it worth the trek.<br />
If you would rather stay indoors and<br />
relax, there are few better ways than a<br />
traditional Indian spa treatment. The<br />
Jiva Spa at the Taj Mahal Palace off ers<br />
several enticements, including a traditional<br />
head massage called “champi” (it<br />
involves giving the scalp a very, very<br />
rigourous scrub). At the Shanti Spa at<br />
Trident, opt for the 90-minute massage<br />
that uses herbal oil to aid relaxation.<br />
To experience an authentic Kerala<br />
spa, head to the no-frills Kerala<br />
Ayurvedic Health Spa on Marine Drive.<br />
THE CLUB<br />
33
24 HOURS<br />
34 THE CLUB<br />
One of its best-known treatments is<br />
the Shiro Dhara, which claims to open<br />
your “Third Eye” and help you get closer<br />
to self-awareness. The process involves<br />
pouring warm oil on the forehead. It’s<br />
much more soothing than it sounds.<br />
1pm<br />
Try the herbal-oil massage<br />
at Shanti Spa<br />
FOR LUNCH, try the Konkan Café<br />
located inside the Taj President hotel.<br />
The restaurant’s décor mirrors that of<br />
homes along India’s west coast, and<br />
the food is what you’d get served<br />
there. Popular seafood dishes include<br />
Mangalorean-style gassi (fi sh steamed<br />
in a turmeric paste) and shrimp curry.<br />
An Indian lunch unlike anything you<br />
may have eaten before awaits you at<br />
Soam, across the street from the beautiful<br />
and ancient Babulnath temple.<br />
Soam serves snacks and meals from<br />
Gujarat, a state in western India famed<br />
for its wide-ranging vegetarian cuisine.<br />
Be sure to try the panki, made from<br />
rice fl our and yoghurt and served in<br />
steamed banana leaves.<br />
2:30pm<br />
FOR A GLIMPSE of Old World Mumbai,<br />
pay your respects at the temple that<br />
gives the city its name. At Mumbadevi<br />
Temple in Kalbadevi, the goddess<br />
Mumbadevi sits resplendent among<br />
other deities in the pantheon.<br />
Kalbadevi is one of Mumbai’s busiest<br />
neighbourhoods and many temples<br />
and buildings there are several hundred<br />
years old – Mumbadevi Temple<br />
was built in the late 18th century. The<br />
congested yet colourful neighbourhood,<br />
which is overfl owing with shops,<br />
buildings, people and vehicles, off ers a<br />
vivid snapshot of a city whose destiny<br />
is density.<br />
Just a short taxi ride away is the<br />
city’s oldest pilgrimage spot at the<br />
Banganga Tank and temple complex<br />
in Walkeshwar. The water tank was<br />
built between the ninth and 13th<br />
centuries and is ringed by tiny houses<br />
on all four sides.<br />
5pm<br />
WHEN IT comes to shopping, Colaba<br />
strikes the perfect balance between<br />
the old and the new. It has the best<br />
of new Indian haute couture as well<br />
as stores selling the creations of<br />
traditional artisans.<br />
The government-run Central Cottage<br />
Industries Emporium showcases<br />
all that India is famous for, from its<br />
carpets and sandalwood items to<br />
exotic teas and herbal cosmetics, from<br />
brassware and silverware to handspun<br />
cotton and silk.<br />
Good Earth<br />
is a hive of<br />
hom e dé cor<br />
Konkan Café<br />
(right) serves<br />
food that’s<br />
popular among<br />
locals on the<br />
west coast Photos. Good Earth: Sebastian Zachariah. Temple: Hemis/ArgusPhoto
Ensemble showcases the stuff that<br />
India is becoming famous for. It is a<br />
one-stop shop for chic threads from<br />
the country’s most famous couture<br />
designers. Ensemble was set up by a<br />
leading Indian designer Tarun Tahiliani,<br />
and stocks the designs of experienced<br />
fashion names such as Rohit Bal,<br />
Bhairavi Jaikishan and Rajesh Pratap<br />
Singh as well as red-hot talent such<br />
as Surily Goel, Sabyasachi Mukherjee<br />
and Anamika Khanna. More Indian<br />
designers are housed at The Courtyard,<br />
including Narendra Kumar and Rajesh<br />
Pratap Singh.<br />
At the capacious Ravissant, which<br />
has stores at the Taj Mahal Palace and<br />
Trident, you can fi nd exquisite silver<br />
and home accessories.<br />
Good Earth also has an extensive<br />
collection of home décor products as<br />
well as a multitude of sweet-smelling<br />
spa accessories.<br />
The Banganga<br />
temple<br />
complex at<br />
Walkeshwar<br />
PARTNER OFFER<br />
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From 16 August to 15 November 2009, stay at selected<br />
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receive your third night free. Plus, to make your stay<br />
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• A complimentary upgrade to the next available<br />
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• Daily breakfast for up to two people<br />
Hotels participating in this offer include:<br />
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• Hyderabad Marriott Hotel & Convention Centre<br />
• JW Marriott Hotel Mumbai<br />
• Renaissance Mumbai Hotel & Convention Centre<br />
For reservations, please quote rate code CJ8 and your<br />
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Telephone: +800 968 328 (Hong Kong toll-free)<br />
Email: asia.reservations@marriott.com<br />
Website: www.marriott.com<br />
THE CLUB<br />
35
24 HOURS<br />
36 THE CLUB<br />
DINE<br />
Busaba<br />
Mandlik Road, Colaba, +91 22 2204 3779<br />
Dome<br />
InterContinental Marine Drive Mumbai<br />
+91 22 3987 9999<br />
www.ichotelsgroup.com/intercontinental/en/<br />
gb/locations/mumbai-marinedrive<br />
Frangipani<br />
Trident, Nariman Point, +91 22 6632 6310<br />
www.tridenthotels.com/mumbai_nariman_<br />
point/index.asp<br />
Henry Tham’s<br />
Dhanraj Mahal, Colaba<br />
+91 22 2284 8214<br />
Indigo Deli<br />
Chattrapati Shivaji Maharishi Marg,<br />
Colaba, +91 22 6655 1010<br />
www.indigodeli.com<br />
The Konkan Café<br />
Taj President hotel, 90 Cuff e Parade<br />
+91 22 6665 0808<br />
www.tajhotels.com<br />
Masala Kraft<br />
Taj Mahal Palace & Tower, Apollo Bunder,<br />
Colaba, +91 22 6665 3366<br />
www.tajhotels.com<br />
Polly Esther’s<br />
Gordon House, Battery Street, Colaba<br />
+91 22 2287 1122<br />
www.mars-world.com/restaurants/polly.html<br />
Red Light<br />
Khyber, MG Road, Kala Ghoda, Colaba<br />
+91 22 6634 6249<br />
Soam<br />
Opposite Babulnath Temple, Chowpatty<br />
+91 22 2369 8080<br />
SHOP<br />
Central Cottage Industries Emporium<br />
Near Dhanraj Mahal, Colaba<br />
+91 22 2202 6564<br />
The Courtyard<br />
Minoo Desai Road, Colaba<br />
+91 22 6638 5468<br />
Ensemble<br />
Great Western Building, Shahid Bhagat<br />
Singh Road, Colaba, +91 22 2284 5118<br />
Good Earth<br />
Reay House, Colaba, +91 22 2202 1030<br />
www.goodearthindia.com<br />
Ravissant<br />
Taj Mahal Palace & Tower, Apollo Bunder,<br />
Colaba, +91 22 2281 5225<br />
Trident, Nariman Point, +91 22 2284 2586<br />
www.cest-ravissant.com<br />
STAY<br />
The Ambassador<br />
Veer Nariman Road, +91 22 2204 0022<br />
www.ambassadorindia.com/mumbai.asp<br />
InterContinental Marine Drive Mumbai<br />
+91 22 3987 9999<br />
www.ichotelsgroup.com/intercontinental/en/<br />
gb/locations/mumbai-marinedrive<br />
Hotel Marine Plaza<br />
29 Marine Drive, +91 22 2285 1212<br />
www.hotelmarineplaza.com<br />
Taj Mahal Palace & Tower<br />
Apollo Bunder, Colaba, +91 22 6665 3366<br />
www.tajhotels.com<br />
Trident<br />
Nariman Point, +91 22 6632 4343<br />
www.tridenthotels.com/mumbai_nariman_<br />
point/index.asp<br />
VISIT<br />
Banganga Temple<br />
Banganga Tank, Walkeshwar<br />
Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Vastu<br />
Sangrahalaya<br />
MG Road, Colaba +91 22 2284 4484<br />
www.bombaymuseum.org<br />
Dr Bhaudaji Lad Mumbai City Museum<br />
Veermata Jijabai Bhonsale Udyan<br />
(city zoo), Dr Ambedkar Road, Byculla<br />
+91 22 2373 1234<br />
www.bdlmuseum.org<br />
Jiva Spa<br />
Taj Mahal Palace & Tower, Apollo Bunder,<br />
Colaba, +91 22 6665 3366<br />
www.tajhotels.com<br />
Kerala Ayurvedic Health Spa<br />
98 Marine Drive, +91 22 2288 3210<br />
Mumbadevi Temple<br />
Mumba Devi Marg, Kalbadevi district<br />
Shanti Spa<br />
Trident, Nariman Point, +91 22 6632 6522<br />
www.tridenthotels.com/mumbai_nariman_<br />
point/index.asp<br />
Polly Esther’s: where disco survives
Rakesh Raicar, <strong>Cathay</strong> <strong>Pacific</strong><br />
Sales & Marketing Manager, India, Nepal & Bangladesh<br />
Get up at the crack of dawn and go to Sassoon<br />
Docks to see the indigenous Kolis people (the<br />
fishing community of Mumbai) bringing in the<br />
catch of the day. Spending a day trawling for<br />
bargains on Mutton Street in Chor Bazaar is also<br />
a fantastic experience.<br />
My favourite café would have to be the Café<br />
Britannia, which is also known as Britannia and Co.<br />
(Wakefi eld House, 11 Sprott Road, 16 Ballard Estate,<br />
Fort, Mumbai, +91 22 2261 5264). This local Iranian<br />
institution has been around for 86 years and is still<br />
run by the same family. Try their delicious berry<br />
pulao and crème caramel.<br />
One of the best restaurants in town is the<br />
well known Trishna (Kala Ghoda, Fort, Colaba,<br />
+ 91 22 2270 3213) at Birla Mansion, Sai Baba<br />
Marg. You must order the amazing rawas<br />
hyderabadi – fi sh marinated in black pepper and<br />
turmeric – as well as the fantastic butter, pepper<br />
and garlic crab.<br />
The best street stall would have to be Bade<br />
Miya’s (Tulloch Road, Apollo Bunder, behind Taj<br />
Mahal Palace and Tower Hotel, Colaba) – perfect<br />
for a chicken reshmi roll at 3am, after a night out.<br />
For unique souvenirs I suggest a box of masala<br />
chai and an exquisite pashmina that you have<br />
haggled hard to buy in Colaba.<br />
The Bombay Store (www.bombaystore.com) is<br />
a one-stop shop for all your handicrafts and gifts,<br />
ranging from apparel, fashion accessories, personal<br />
care, food and beverages, home accessories to soft<br />
furnishings and stationery. For fabrics, Fabindia<br />
(www.fabindia.com) off ers you a range of shirts,<br />
trousers, kurtas and salwar kameez, all made from<br />
gloriously colourful block-printed silk and cotton.<br />
Curtains, linen, jewellery and other gift items are<br />
also available.<br />
For nightlife, most places rock until the wee<br />
hours. Blue Frog (www.bluefrog.co.in) is a fantastic<br />
venue for live music, Zenzi (183 Waterfi eld Road,<br />
Bandra West, +91 22 6643 0670) showcases the<br />
best DJs and Prive (41/44 Monrepos, Ground Floor,<br />
Minoo Desai Road, Colaba, +91 22 2202 8700) is<br />
perfect for mingling with the beautiful people.<br />
If you really want to blend in with the locals,<br />
wear a pair of kurta pajamas, get a cup of hot<br />
masala chai, a copy of the Hindustan Times and sit<br />
on the seafront at Marine Drive early in the morning.<br />
Alternatively, you could drive a dilapidated<br />
Fiat around like a maniac.<br />
PARTNER OFFER<br />
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From 16 August to 15 November 2009, members of<br />
The Marco Polo Club can discover the best of India<br />
at their own pace with the following special offers<br />
from Hertz:<br />
• Self-drive Offer: Enjoy five complimentary rental<br />
hours on top of the regular 10% discount and 250<br />
Asia Miles. Valid on Affordable Rates and subject to<br />
a minimum rental of two days.<br />
• Chauffeur-drive Offer: Enjoy a complimentary<br />
One Car Class Upgrade and 250 Asia Miles. Valid<br />
on chauffeur-drive rates and for Economy to<br />
Midsize vehicles, with a maximum upgrade to a<br />
Full-size four-door. Subject to a minimum rental of<br />
four hours or 40 kilometres.<br />
Make your reservation at least 72 hours prior to<br />
departure for chauffeur-drive rentals and 48 hours<br />
for self-drive rentals. Please quote “Marco Polo Club<br />
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reservation, then present your Marco Polo Club<br />
membership card at the rental counter.<br />
Telephone: +91 11 4184 1212<br />
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Terms and conditions<br />
1. These offers are valid at participating Hertz<br />
locations in Delhi, Mumbai, Bangalore,<br />
Hyderabad, Chennai and Pune.<br />
2. Standard Hertz terms and conditions apply.<br />
THE CLUB<br />
37
Thermo-processed silk<br />
used for scarves at Khai<br />
Silk boutique<br />
BY SAMANTHA COOMBER<br />
Sheen star<br />
Silk threads through the history of Vietnam but<br />
hip Ho Chi Minh City designers add a new twist<br />
that updates the lustre of the traditional fabric<br />
ifestyle and fashion label SONG retails its madein-Vietnam<br />
clothes and homewares in some of<br />
the world’s most up-market resorts and stores<br />
such as Saks Fifth Avenue in New York. Founder<br />
and Ho Chi Minh City resident Valerie Gregori<br />
McKenzie insists on using handmade Vietnamese<br />
silks. In her workshop the savvy French<br />
designer enthuses about the variety of colours<br />
and the texture. “The silk’s informal quality and<br />
imperfect appearance is ideal<br />
for our relaxed, resort-style<br />
concept,” she says.<br />
Home-grown label Mosaique also exports its homewares<br />
and interiors worldwide and Vietnamese founder-designer<br />
Alan Duong chooses Vietnamese silk for his hand-crafted<br />
designs. “The artisanal quality gives our goods a traditional,<br />
handmade look that is Mosaique’s defi ning trademark,”<br />
Duong says.<br />
Photo. Alamy/Argus Photo<br />
Timeless beauty:<br />
the traditional<br />
ao dai dress<br />
PHOTOS PETER STUCKINGS<br />
Threading ancient skills through to the 21st century,<br />
Vietnam’s traditional silk industry is undergoing an intriguing<br />
metamorphosis. And in its typically progressive and edgy<br />
attitude, cosmopolitan and dynamic Ho Chi Minh City in the<br />
south leads the revolution. Vietnam’s shopping capital turns<br />
tradition on its head with innovative designers and exciting<br />
old-meets-new hybrids.<br />
TRAVEL<br />
THE CLUB<br />
39
TRAVEL<br />
VIETNAMESE SILKS HAVE<br />
A LOOSE, FLOWING QUALITY<br />
THAT DRAPES BEAUTIFULLY<br />
Silk ties to suit<br />
every taste<br />
at Tuyet Lan<br />
boutique<br />
(below right)<br />
Nguyen Quynh<br />
An of [chle]<br />
(below)<br />
in one of her<br />
silk dresses<br />
Like most of Vietnam’s traditional crafts, silk evolved in the<br />
country’s north, especially in the Red River Delta region. Fuelled<br />
by the nation’s thriving economic development, Vietnam’s<br />
most illustrious and popular craft is enjoying a renaissance and<br />
surging demand in domestic and international markets. The<br />
north may have enjoyed a lengthy monopoly but other areas<br />
are now successful producers.<br />
Vietnamese silk comprises many varieties and there are<br />
distinct regional specialties. The celebrated glossy Ha Dong silk<br />
is produced in the north while central Quang Nam Province is<br />
renowned for its Danang taff eta, organza and damask silks. In<br />
the south, the highland Lam Dong Province is reputed for its<br />
quality silks and the Mekong Delta’s Tan Chau has recently kickstarted<br />
its traditional Cham and Khmer silk weaves, including<br />
the unusual ebony satin.<br />
Developing faster than the traditional north, the south<br />
boasts more sophisticated production methods, with modern<br />
equipment and, increasingly, factory premises.<br />
However, many home-based enterprises still use traditional<br />
methods of thread spinning, dyeing and hand-weaving in<br />
small workshops. With this sort of artisanal production<br />
and inherent traditions, Vietnam’s silks vary from their<br />
other Asian counterparts and generally are defi ned by<br />
a looser, more fl owing quality that drapes beautifully.<br />
Vietnamese artisanal silk weaves appear plainer, albeit<br />
with a lustrous sheen, and tend to have a handmade,<br />
slightly uneven quality, the result of varying thicknesses<br />
of thread, a characteristic of hand-weaving that always<br />
distinguishes it from sleek, machine-woven silks.<br />
Apart from Gregori McKenzie and Duong, other
Minh Khoa (left) offers<br />
wedding gowns,<br />
ao dais and<br />
evening dresses<br />
Vietnam is without<br />
a significant leather<br />
industry. Silk footwear<br />
(below) offers a<br />
colourful alternative<br />
resident international and local designers fi nd the unique<br />
qualities of Vietnamese silks an inspiring – and competitively<br />
priced – fabric to work with for their cutting-edge designs.<br />
“We focus on materials unique to that country,” say<br />
Vietnam-based Spaniards Diego Cortizas and Laura Fontán,<br />
founders of Chula fashions. “For us, Vietnamese silk is one of<br />
Vietnam’s treasures. European silk may look more extravagant,<br />
but the variety of textures, colours and shapes arising from local<br />
silks allow us greater design freedom.”<br />
Local boutique [chle] exclusively uses pure Vietnamese<br />
silk for its handmade fashions. “Domestic silks are<br />
not only beautiful with bold colours,” reflects Nguyen<br />
Quynh An, who created the brand. “But the silk’s floaty<br />
quality allows us to execute the [chle] look perfectly –<br />
feminine, sensual, yet with modern panache.”<br />
Ho Viet Ly, the founder of upscale silk producer Toan Thinh<br />
Silk, says the Vietnamese fabric is “an untapped resource”.<br />
PARTNER OFFER<br />
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From 16 August to 15 November 2009, enjoy a stylish<br />
weekend getaway in Ho Chi Minh City and stay in a<br />
Premier Deluxe room at the Sheraton Saigon Hotel &<br />
Towers at a special rate of just USD180 per night.<br />
Plus, to further relax and unwind, you’ll receive<br />
complimentary access to the recently renovated<br />
Sheraton Fitness club and swimming pool.<br />
Located in the heart of Ho Chi Minh City’s vibrant<br />
business and entertainment district, Sheraton Saigon<br />
Hotel & Towers offers a haven of relaxation amidst the<br />
hustle and bustle of the city.<br />
Please quote promotion code “WEEKEND MARCO<br />
POLO CLUB” when making your reservation.<br />
Telephone: +84 8 3827 2828<br />
Website: www.sheraton.com/saigon<br />
Terms and conditions<br />
1. Rate is valid for stays booked and used on Fridays,<br />
Saturdays and Sundays within the promotion<br />
period.<br />
2. Rate is subject to 5% service charge and 5.25%<br />
government tax.<br />
THE CLUB<br />
41
TRAVEL<br />
Foremost a highly-skilled weaver, Ly explores the technical<br />
potential of Vietnam’s silk. Manufacturers are now expanding<br />
their silk and garment repertoire with modern-style fi nishes,<br />
such as the “crinkled” look, rayon and viscose mixes and new<br />
techniques in dyeing and thermo-processing threads.<br />
As the hub of Vietnam’s burgeoning fashion industry,<br />
Ho Chi Minh City is home to an increasing band of homegrown,<br />
pioneering designers creating fashionable Oriental-<br />
East-meets-contemporary-West silk creations. The south’s<br />
lighter, funkier and more avant-garde designs refl ect its<br />
tropical climes and experimental mindset, contrasting with<br />
Hanoi’s more traditional, formal and heavier varieties.<br />
BEST BUYS<br />
From hotel lobbies to Tan Son Nhat Airport,<br />
someone, somewhere in Ho Chi Minh City<br />
will be selling silk. Here are some of the best<br />
places to buy. (Unless stated otherwise,<br />
listings are all located in downtown<br />
District One).<br />
aa deco<br />
Sumptuous interiors<br />
and furniture<br />
inspired by colonial<br />
and Oriental classics include<br />
Chinese-style ceiling lanterns –<br />
stunningly hand-crafted from pure<br />
silk – and silk brocade boudoir<br />
cushions.<br />
219 Nguyen Van<br />
Thu Street<br />
+84 8 3823 0940<br />
www.aacorporation.com<br />
Nguyen Freres<br />
Eclectic mix of inexpensive silk goodies<br />
including cushion covers, wallets, scarves, bags<br />
and lanterns.<br />
2 Dong Khoi Street, +84 8 3823 9459<br />
[chle]<br />
Floaty pure silk fashions at this local boutique<br />
are original designs and feature pretty sun<br />
dresses, skirts and sleeveless blouses in bold<br />
colours. Raw silk jackets feature a Chanel twist.<br />
9B Thai Van Lung Street<br />
+84 8 3827 7550<br />
Minh Khoa<br />
Ho Chi Minh City designer Minh Khoa’s prêt-aporter<br />
couture collections feature glamorous<br />
wedding gowns, ao dais and evening dresses.<br />
39 Dong Khoi Street<br />
+84 8 3823 2302<br />
www.minhkhoa-f.com/collection<br />
Tuyet Lan<br />
Some of the prettiest yet best value silk<br />
fashions in the city can be found at this<br />
low-key boutique.<br />
84-86 Le Loi Street<br />
+84 8 3829 9754<br />
Mandarina<br />
Sublime hand-crafted shoes include strappy<br />
high heels in red satin silk and bright<br />
brocade boots.<br />
171 Le Thanh Ton Street<br />
+84 8 3827 5267<br />
VOV<br />
Couture designer Vo Viet Chung’s boutique<br />
showcases traditional, contemporary and<br />
wedding ao dais.<br />
403 Huynh Van Banh Street,<br />
Phu Nhuan District, +84 8 3991 0299<br />
www.vovietchung.com
Luxurious<br />
interiors<br />
at aa deco<br />
Khai Silk<br />
Traditional Oriental to contemporary fashions<br />
are beautifully executed and use the fi nest silks.<br />
Accessories include multicoloured scarves and<br />
velvet and brocade shawls.<br />
107 Dong Khoi Street<br />
+84 8 3829 1146<br />
www.khaisilkcorp.com<br />
Chula @ Ipa-Nima<br />
Ipa-Nima’s fl agship handbag store exclusively<br />
carries Chula fashions. Handmade from pure<br />
taff eta, these vividly coloured dresses fuse vibrant<br />
Spanish designs with Vietnamese traditions.<br />
77-79 Dong Khoi Street<br />
+84 90 425 8960<br />
www.chula.es<br />
Kenly Silk<br />
This family-run business off ers quality and<br />
good value silk garments, traditional and<br />
Ho Ch Minh City’s new generation of chic boutiques showcase<br />
these modern off -the-rack designs. Epitomizing this<br />
change is the evolution of the beloved national costume, the<br />
silk ao dai, a long close-fi tting dress split to the sides and worn<br />
over wide trousers.<br />
Leading southern designer Vo Viet Chung has won awards<br />
for daring, contemporary takes on the outfi t in his couture<br />
collections. Its trademark fl owing, sensuous movement is<br />
accentuated by the fl uidity of Vietnamese silks. Ho Chi Minh<br />
City boutiques take this a step further with this traditional<br />
design morphing as hip satin silk garments worn over jeans<br />
or psychedelic chiff on numbers.<br />
modern ao dais, fi tted taff eta jackets and<br />
hand-painted robes.<br />
132 Le Thanh Ton Street<br />
+84 8 3829 3847<br />
www.kenlysilk.com<br />
Mosaique Decoration<br />
Handmade silk homewares and accessories<br />
feature embroidered cushions, hand-stitched<br />
quilts and lotus-shaped lanterns.<br />
98 Mac Thi Buoi Street<br />
+84 8 3823 4634<br />
www.mosaiquedecoration.com<br />
SONG<br />
The clothing, soft furnishings and accessories<br />
feature limited-edition, exquisitely<br />
embroidered silk scarves.<br />
76D Le Thanh Ton Street<br />
+84 8 3824 6986<br />
www.asiasongdesign.com<br />
PARTNER OFFER<br />
Enjoy a half-day private tour<br />
Members of The Marco Polo Club who book a<br />
Standard or Deluxe Ho Chi Minh City <strong>Cathay</strong> <strong>Pacific</strong><br />
Holidays package and travel between 20 August and<br />
30 November 2009 will enjoy a special offer – an<br />
inspiring half-day private tour of this historic city.<br />
Half-day tour includes:<br />
• An English-speaking guide and private transfers<br />
• Admission fees as specified in the itinerary<br />
• Visits to historic attractions such as Reunification<br />
Palace, War Remnants Museum, Emperor of Jade<br />
Pagoda and Central Ben Thanh Market<br />
Package price starts from HKD3,400 and includes:<br />
• A round-trip Economy Class or Business Class flight<br />
between Hong Kong and Ho Chi Minh City on<br />
<strong>Cathay</strong> <strong>Pacific</strong> Airways<br />
• Two consecutive nights’ accommodation at selected<br />
hotels with daily breakfast<br />
• Travel insurance<br />
For reservations<br />
Telephone: +852 2747 4388<br />
Website: www.cxholidays.com<br />
Terms and conditions<br />
1. Price is quoted per person, based on two adults sharing one room,<br />
checking in and travelling together throughout the entire journey.<br />
2. This offer is only valid for packages booked and paid for between<br />
16 August and 15 November 2009.<br />
3. <strong>Cathay</strong> Holidays Limited terms and<br />
conditions apply.<br />
THE CLUB<br />
43
INSIDE CX<br />
44 THE CLUB<br />
BY MATHEW SCOTT<br />
Safety fi rst<br />
From the top down, safety is the prime concern of the <strong>Cathay</strong> Pacifi c culture<br />
ichard Howell reaches forward and with a<br />
click of his mouse the computer screen on<br />
his desk displays an animated version of<br />
one of the <strong>Cathay</strong> Pacifi c fl ights that see<br />
about a million passengers safely reach<br />
their chosen destinations each month.<br />
As <strong>Cathay</strong> <strong>Pacific</strong>’s Head of Corporate<br />
Safety, it’s Howell’s job to make sure<br />
they do just that. Every second of each<br />
fl ight is recorded, he reveals, and then<br />
gone over in minute detail.<br />
“Aviation is the safest form of transport in the world,’’ Howell<br />
explains. “And so we have all these systems in place to predict<br />
where the next problem might come from, to fi nd something<br />
that might otherwise catch us out.<br />
“We record every single fl ight from engine start to engine<br />
shut down, so we know what goes on and we scan every<br />
single fl ight for any events. And if an event happens, we follow<br />
that up.’’<br />
Safety is at the very core of <strong>Cathay</strong> Pacifi c’s corporate policy,<br />
a commitment to securing the very highest of standards that<br />
goes right to the top. Responsibility may begin with each and<br />
every member of staff , but ultimately it rests with the airline’s<br />
Chief Executive, Tony Tyler.<br />
“One of the most important things about safety is that it<br />
comes from the top down,’’ says Howell. “In the company we<br />
have a mission statement that says various things but paramount<br />
is that safety comes fi rst. The idea is that we try to generate an<br />
organizational culture which is a safe culture.’’<br />
The very human face of <strong>Cathay</strong> <strong>Pacific</strong>’s safety culture<br />
greets you as you board your fl ight. Intense training when staff<br />
members fi rst join the airline and annual refresher courses mean<br />
cabin crew know how to react to any situation: “There’s ongoing<br />
training every year,” says Howell. “We go out there and actively<br />
look for problems and we do a lot of publications on a regular<br />
basis to educate our crews about safety issues that are going<br />
on. It’s about constantly learning.’’<br />
Flight Purser Mary Tam has been with <strong>Cathay</strong> Pacifi c for nineand-a-half<br />
years and on a daily basis has to deal with what is the<br />
McIntyre<br />
G.<br />
most common concern for passengers – air turbulence.<br />
“Sometimes people are nervous – particularly fi rst-time David<br />
travellers because they have no idea what happens on fl ights,’’ Photos:
Staff receive<br />
ongoing safety<br />
English caption training, xxxxxxx says<br />
xxx Richard xxxx xxxx Howell<br />
xxxx
INSIDE CX<br />
46 THE CLUB<br />
WHEN IT COMES TO PREPARING IN THE ACTUAL<br />
COCKPIT ... NOTHING IS LEFT TO CHANCE<br />
Tam says. “So we comfort them and tell them what to expect<br />
during the turbulence. For example, in light turbulence our<br />
in-fl ight service manager will address the PA and announce<br />
the light turbulence. Then we will secure and check the cabin,<br />
making sure everyone is in their seats and there is no one in<br />
the toilets. If there is, then we will ask them to come out quickly.<br />
Everything is done to ensure safety.’’<br />
That includes tucking away anything that might cause harm.<br />
Hence passengers are asked to store any loose, heavy items<br />
under the seats – and why you’ll see those drinks trolleys quickly<br />
taken away. “Well, we have to stop all the hot beverage services<br />
pretty quickly,’’ says Tam.<br />
Pilots change<br />
course to avoid<br />
cloud-based<br />
turbulence,<br />
says Captain<br />
Henry Craig<br />
“If, for example, the crew is doing tea services with the cart we<br />
will hide the teapots inside the cart in case anything might spill<br />
on a passenger. We lock them away and the purser will come<br />
and grab the pots to make sure we don’t have to worry about<br />
anything. We don’t leave anything to chance.’’<br />
As <strong>Cathay</strong> Pacifi c’s General Manager Flying, Captain Henry<br />
Craig keeps a close watch on what happens should there be<br />
any in-fl ight problems. In keeping with <strong>Cathay</strong> Pacifi c’s safety<br />
mantra, Craig says it is all about learning. And when it comes<br />
to preparing in the actual cockpit, Craig stresses that nothing<br />
is left to chance.<br />
“When it comes to turbulence obviously the fi rst thing we<br />
try to do is avoid it if we can,’’ Craig explains. “There are basically<br />
two types of turbulence – ones that are associated with cloud<br />
and ones that are not associated with cloud.<br />
“If they are not associated with cloud they are called clear<br />
air turbulence. And basically with clear air turbulence we can’t<br />
anticipate it. If we start getting a bump or two we’ll immediately<br />
put on the seat belt sign.’’<br />
When air turbulence is a result of clouds or “convective buildup’’,<br />
pilots are able to see it on their weather-radar screen. “We<br />
do everything we can to avoid it,’’ says Craig.<br />
Vigilance is the key, says <strong>Cathay</strong> Pacifi c’s General Manager<br />
Infl ight Services, Charlie Stewart-Cox. Pre-fl ight briefi ngs prepare<br />
staff for the fl ight, just as the pre-fl ight safety demonstrations<br />
prepare passengers.<br />
“It’s all about situation awareness both for the staff and the<br />
passengers,’’ says Stewart-Cox. “Staff will look around the fl ight<br />
as people board and form a general fl ight profi le, looking to
e aware of special needs, such as languages to use and what<br />
families are on board and what help they might require.’’<br />
That process is part of <strong>Cathay</strong> <strong>Pacific</strong>’s risk-based Safety<br />
Management System (SMS), explains Howell. “What that means<br />
is having certain things in place, and among those is generating<br />
a safety culture,’’ he says. “The SMS is like a jigsaw puzzle. Each<br />
one of them is not that eff ective but joined together it makes a<br />
very, very good system.<br />
“There are factors like a very good established safety reporting<br />
system so that if something goes wrong the crews know<br />
how to report something. Basically we know how to learn from<br />
our mistakes and we all make mistakes. We just make sure they<br />
don’t happen again.’’<br />
As part of <strong>Cathay</strong> Pacifi c’s SMS, everything reported and<br />
Vigilance<br />
is the key,<br />
says Charlie<br />
Stewart-Cox<br />
(above left)<br />
Trainees learn<br />
that hot drinks<br />
are always<br />
poured in the<br />
aisle to avoid<br />
spillage on<br />
passengers<br />
(above)<br />
observed goes into a database to be followed up on so that<br />
nothing escapes attention – and action.<br />
“When something does go wrong it’s not really about fi nding<br />
out who is guilty. It is about what went wrong in the system and<br />
fi xing that problem,’’ he says.<br />
From a passenger’s point of view, Howell says the important<br />
thing to remember – always – is that <strong>Cathay</strong> Pacifi c’s staff are<br />
there to help things run smoothly and safely.<br />
“Primarily the cabin crew are there to keep the passengers<br />
safe; they are safety executives,’’ he says. “People forget that in<br />
the beginning, stewardesses were all qualifi ed nurses – safety<br />
was the fi rst concern. You want to provide the best service and<br />
the best safety – that is the main role. And if they ask you to do<br />
something, there will always be a reason for it.’’<br />
THE CLUB<br />
47
CX NEWS<br />
SWING INTO ACTION<br />
Look forward to plenty of long<br />
drives and perfect putts at<br />
The Marco Polo Club Golf Classic<br />
2009, our highly anticipated<br />
annual event reserved for Gold<br />
and above members.<br />
Join us from 6 to 8 November,<br />
2009, in Taipei for a spectacular<br />
golfi ng experience. This year’s<br />
tournament is being hosted at<br />
the world-class championship<br />
courses of the Miramar Golf<br />
Country Club and Ta Shee Golf<br />
& Country Club.<br />
You get the chance to win the<br />
championship trophy for Best<br />
Gross, Best Gross 1st Runner-up,<br />
Best Team 18-hole Scramble,<br />
Longest Drive and Nearest-<br />
To-The-Pin. There are fantastic<br />
prizes to be won, including the<br />
fi rst Hole-in-One award of One<br />
Million Asia Miles!<br />
The fi nale to our tournament<br />
will be an unforgettable dining<br />
Ta Shee Golf &<br />
Country Club<br />
experience featuring Taiwanese<br />
cuisine prepared by celebrated<br />
chef and author “Ar-Ji-Shi”.<br />
Get into full swing at<br />
two world-class golf<br />
courses<br />
Miramar Golf Country Club –<br />
ranked as the top golf course in<br />
Taiwan by U.S. Golf Digest in 1999<br />
– off ers golfers a distinctive<br />
playing environment throughout<br />
the 36-hole course (Course<br />
A & B) designed by golfi ng<br />
legend Jack Nicklaus.<br />
Ta Shee Golf & Country Club<br />
was re-built in 1999 by Robert<br />
Trent Jones Jr. and is the only<br />
golf course in Taiwan recognised<br />
by European, Australian and<br />
Asian Circuit Games.<br />
Stay in five-star luxury<br />
You can choose to stay at an<br />
exclusive rate at Shangri-La’s Far<br />
Shangri-La’s Far Eastern<br />
Plaza Hotel, Taipei<br />
Miramar Golf<br />
Country Club<br />
Eastern Plaza Hotel, Taipei, which<br />
occupies an ideal location in the<br />
heart of the city’s fl ourishing<br />
business district on fashionable<br />
Tun Hwa South Road. Taking<br />
advantage of the unique curved<br />
architecture and soaring height<br />
of the signature building, all<br />
rooms and suites have engaging<br />
and varied views of Taipei.<br />
Register now for a<br />
great weekend of<br />
competition<br />
This event is open exclusively<br />
to Gold and above members of<br />
The Marco Polo Club and their<br />
guests (maximum one guest<br />
per member), but places are<br />
limited and will be allocated on a<br />
fi rst-come-fi rst-served basis. For<br />
more details and to register, log in<br />
to your Marco Polo Club account<br />
at www.cathaypacifi c.com or call<br />
The Marco Polo Club Golf Classic<br />
Hotline on +852 2411 4179.<br />
THE MARCO POLO CLUB<br />
GOLF CLASSIC<br />
TOURNAMENT<br />
PACKAGE<br />
You and your companion can<br />
take part in this exciting event<br />
for 72,000 Asia Miles per person,<br />
which includes:<br />
• Warm-up game on the fi rst day<br />
• Green fees for two days of golf<br />
• Golf caddy and buggy<br />
• Driving range for warm-up<br />
• Round-trip transfers between the<br />
hotel and golf courses<br />
• Organising, team pairing and<br />
scoring<br />
• A collection of golfi ng gifts and<br />
accessories<br />
• Trophy and prizes<br />
• Welcome cocktails and daily<br />
lunch<br />
• Closing gala dinner
Dragonair launches new services to Guangzhou<br />
Dragonair fl ies to Guangzhou<br />
from 14 September. The<br />
provincial capital of Guangdong,<br />
Guangzhou is also the biggest<br />
city in the fast-growing Pearl<br />
River Delta region. The new<br />
service aims to further enhance<br />
Hong Kong’s status as one of the<br />
world’s premier international<br />
aviation hubs. The early morning<br />
fl ights to and from Hong<br />
Kong are designed to off er<br />
you good connections into<br />
Hyatt Hotels & Resorts • Park Hyatt Hotels •<br />
Grand Hyatt Hotels • Hyatt Regency Hotels •<br />
Hyatt Place • Hyatt Summerfield Suites<br />
Mandarin Oriental Hotel Group<br />
Marriott International Hotels<br />
Marriott® Hotels & Resorts •<br />
JW Marriott® Hotels & Resorts •<br />
Renaissance® Hotels & Resorts<br />
and out of the Hong Kong hub<br />
from international destinations.<br />
For fl ight schedules, please visit<br />
www.dragonair.com<br />
Guangzhou on<br />
the Pearl River<br />
A taste of Tuscany with Frescobaldi<br />
For 700 years, the Frescobaldi family has created wine in<br />
Tuscany. Marchesi de Frescobaldi has seven estates<br />
producing wines that express the local terroir.<br />
From September to November, passengers travelling in<br />
<strong>Cathay</strong> Pacifi c First Class can taste the Mormoreto 2006 and<br />
Montesodi 2006, and Business Class passengers can try the<br />
Nipozzano Riserva 2005 and Tenuta di Castiglioni 2006.<br />
The Frescobaldi wines are available by the glass on most<br />
long-haul fl ights in and out of Hong Kong.<br />
Brand new <strong>Cathay</strong> <strong>Pacific</strong> lounge in Kuala Lumpur<br />
The newly opened <strong>Cathay</strong> Pacifi c First and Business Class lounge in<br />
Kuala Lumpur International Airport will off er you an enhanced travel<br />
experience. The 93-seat lounge covers more than 370 square metres.<br />
Its design echoes the concept of The Pier lounge in Hong Kong,<br />
with fi ne marble and wood fi nishes, and a touch of the signature<br />
“Long Table” and “Bamboo Wall”.<br />
There are seven “Personal Living Spaces” with full broadband and<br />
Wi-Fi access for you to work or go online. A wide variety of Western<br />
and Asian cuisine is on off er from a constantly updated menu.<br />
New First and Business Class<br />
lounge, Kuala Lumpur<br />
CLUB PARTNERS : For exclusive Club partner offers, please visit the member’s area of www.cathaypacific.com<br />
Shangri-La Hotels and Resorts<br />
Shangri-La Hotels and Resorts •<br />
Traders Hotels<br />
Starwood Hotels & Resorts Worldwide<br />
Sheraton Hotels & Resorts® • Four Points® by Sheraton •<br />
St. Regis® Hotels & Resorts • The Luxury Collection® •<br />
Le Méridien • W Hotels® • Westin Hotels & Resorts®<br />
Swire Hotels<br />
The Hilton Family • Hilton®• Conrad® Hotels &<br />
Resorts • Doubletree® • Embassy Suites Hotels® •<br />
Hilton Garden Inn® • Hilton Grand Vacations •<br />
The Waldorf Astoria Collection<br />
The Peninsula Hotels<br />
Avis<br />
Hertz<br />
SIXT rent a car<br />
For all partner offers, prices quoted are subject to change without prior notice. Peak season surcharges apply. Advance reservation is required. Rooms and offers are subject to availability.<br />
Blackout dates apply. Offer cannot be used in conjunction with any other promotional offer or membership benefit.<br />
THE CLUB<br />
49
3<br />
QUARTER 2009