Odyssey magazine. - Noble Caledonia

GREEK
GODS
Discover the islands of
the Gods and heroes of
classical Greece on our
Athens to Athens cruise.
Itinerary details on
our website
eyes in the direction of Crete.
In 1878, a local merchant, digging
around on the site of an abandoned
Roman town named Cnossus (or
Knossos), discovered the enigmatic
remnants of a very much older city.
Eight years later traces of a fabulously
ancient civilisation were discovered
in a cave on the side of Mount Ida,
precisely where tradition claimed that
Zeus had passed his childhood. In
1900, the focus of attention swung
back to Knossos when excavations
conducted on a massive scale revealed
extraordinary wonders.
A vast complex of buildings so
sprawling and maze-like as to seem like
a labyrinth was unveiled. There were
frescoes of young men leaping over
bulls; pottery and other artefacts even
older than Mycenae. Well might Arthur
Evans, the archaeologist responsible for
uncovering this previously unsuspected
civilisation, have termed it Minoan.
Evans himself, an eccentric so
committed to excavating Knossos that
he had bought up the entire site, was a
man of remarkable paradoxes. He was
a racist who believed passionately that
the origins of Western civilisation lay in
Africa; a patriot who saw in the Minoan
command of the seas a precursor of
the British Empire, yet who idolised
the Minoans themselves as pacifi sts.
He was a buttoned-up Victorian who
portrayed ancient Knossos as a fabulous
paradise of mother goddesses, barebreasted
female athletes, and crossdressing
priests. Trumping Schliemann,
he revealed the birthplace of Western
civilisation to have been, not the brutal
warrior society of Mycenae, but a
fairy-tale utopia. The fi rst Europeans, it
appeared, had been like hippies.
It is testimony to the potency and
sheer strangeness of the world conjured
up by Evans that even now – when
modern archaeologists have revealed
the Minoan world to have been in
truth a deeply brutal one, scarred by
factionalism and cannibalism – we
remain so reluctant to let this initial
impression go. In part, no doubt we
long to believe that the beginnings
of the West might indeed have been
characterised by peace, feminist virtues,
and a blissed-out hedonism. But it is
tribute as well to the sheer beauty of
the island on which Knossos stands. It
is a beauty that, even today, persuades
us that it might indeed have been a
childhood home of Gods. •
Ready to go
Everything you need to know
DISCOVER
CRETE
Spring Colours & Ancient
Wonders of Crete
20-29 April 2012, 9 nights from £3495
> Aboard MV Harmony
Explore the hidden treasures and unspoilt coastline of this
mountainous archipelago, which boasts some of the best
archaeological sites in the Greek islands and an incredible
array of plant and bird life.
In the spotlight
On Day 4, enjoy a scenic drive from the vessel through
the beautiful countryside of Crete to visit Phaestos –
one of three towns that were founded by King Minos
of Crete. Then, on Day 8, explore the fantastic ruins of
the ancient palace complex in Knossos.
Excursion highlights*
A taste of the excursions available on this tour…
Archanes: Admire the colourfully restored
neoclassical buildings in this picturesque small town.
Kythira: A less-known island gem, which is a
paradise for fl ower lovers.
*Almost all excursions are included in your tour price.
A few are optional, which will need to be paid for if undertaken.
Check when booking for full details of all excursions.
Guest speaker
Journalist and writer Paul Harris will share his
captivating travel experiences onboard.
For full details go to www.noble-caledonia.co.uk
WWW.NOBLE-CALEDONIA.CO.UK AUTUMN/WINTER 2011-2012 ODYSSEY
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