FASHION FORWARD Photography by Marcus Oleniuk Joseph Wan leads one <strong>of</strong> Britain’s most respected names in luxury retailing. He tells Jo Bowman how Harvey Nichols is reaching out to the world’s wealthy and <strong>fashion</strong>-savvy, but staying out <strong>of</strong> mainland China – for now May 2012 27
??????????? Success ingredient ith its opulent flagship store in London’s Knightsbridge, Harvey Nichols is on par with Harrods as a byword for luxury European shopping. Indeed, Harrods is only a short walk away, along with Jimmy Choo, Manolo Blahnik, Armani, Tod’s, Gianfranco Ferré, Prada and a long list <strong>of</strong> other top names. Shopping for luxury in this part <strong>of</strong> the world is a serious business. Joseph Wan, impeccably dressed in an Ermenegildo Zegna suit and wearing one <strong>of</strong> his collection <strong>of</strong> Tom Ford ties, insists he’s no <strong>fashion</strong>ista. But Harvey Nichols’ group chief executive does know what makes the appeal <strong>of</strong> an upmarket retailer endure, while hemlines, colours and collar styles come and go. When the <strong>Hong</strong> <strong>Kong</strong>-born Wan joined Harvey Nichols 20 years ago, it was a single, loss-making store with a rich, century-old heritage but a day-to-day business that had become lost in the diverse operations <strong>of</strong> its previous owner, the Burton Group (now the Arcadia Group run by the retail magnate Sir Philip Green). Snapped up by a <strong>Hong</strong> <strong>Kong</strong> conglomerate, Dickson Concepts, and with Wan at the 28 May 2012 helm, the brand has grown into a pr<strong>of</strong>itable and thriving international network with seven stores in the United Kingdom and Ireland, and another six around the world. In <strong>Hong</strong> <strong>Kong</strong>, a new store opened in Pacific Place in late 2011, in addition to an existing store in the Landmark. The international footprint will change shape again this September when a new store is due to open in The Avenues, the largest shopping centre in Kuwait. The resurrection and strategic expansion <strong>of</strong> Harvey Nichols, Wan says, has come through the application <strong>of</strong> many <strong>of</strong> the skills – and attention to detail – that he honed as a CPA. “The key to the turnaround and con- tinuing development <strong>of</strong> Harvey Nichols was one word: focus,” he says. Wan immediately moved the company’s <strong>of</strong>fice out <strong>of</strong> the Knightsbridge store, liberating 1,850 square metres (20,000 square feet) <strong>of</strong> retailing space at a stroke. “Previously, the company was part <strong>of</strong> a big high-street retail group and was too small within the group to merit enough attention; it was noncore so it was ignored. There was no strategy whatsoever.” Products, merchandising, the store environment, business processes and incentive schemes for staff all were given an overhaul. Even today, Wan remains close to the day-to-day goings-on on the shop floor. On the day that A Plus catches up with him, he’s