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Download July 2010 - Bite Magazine

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26<br />

BITE<br />

‘n’<br />

SLURP<br />

BEER<br />

THE CALIFORNIA COMMON<br />

Full steam ahead!<br />

It is not widely appreciated, but<br />

lager is a bloody difficult drink to<br />

make. Even the blandest commercial<br />

pish requires meticulous control of<br />

yeast and a constant cool<br />

temperature throughout the brewing<br />

process.<br />

This is one of the reasons why<br />

pilsner originated in Bavaria<br />

and the Czech Republic –<br />

regions with an abundance of<br />

cool, stone vaulted cellars. A<br />

commodity that was in short<br />

supply during the Californian<br />

gold rush.<br />

This posed a problem for the<br />

state’s breweries. After a 14-hour shift<br />

of hard labour in very dangerous and<br />

extremely hot conditions, the<br />

prospectors were hardly in the mood<br />

for a pint of mild or a bottle of porter.<br />

The solution hit upon was to brew<br />

using a bottom fermenting lager yeast,<br />

but at the warmer temperatures<br />

associated with heavier beers. The<br />

resulting drink had the light, zesty,<br />

refreshing character of a lager, but with<br />

the depth and creaminess of a pale ale.<br />

One of the downsides of this new beer<br />

was its volatility. New casks had to be<br />

vented with a great hiss and a blast of<br />

beery smoke. Thus the beer was<br />

christened Steam beer.<br />

The best known of Steam beers is<br />

produced by the Anchor brewery in<br />

San Francisco, but now an Edinburghbased<br />

brewer has introduced a Scottish<br />

interpretation of this American classic.<br />

The California Common is the<br />

inaugural release from Knops Brewing<br />

Co.<br />

It is a pretty, vibrant, golden<br />

beer with gentle<br />

effervescence and a fine head.<br />

Nicely aromatic with hints of<br />

wet straw and shortbread<br />

biscuit. The palate is light<br />

and zesty with a crisp finish<br />

and a quite definite citrus<br />

edge. It is by no means a<br />

complex or powerful beer,<br />

but it is poised, balanced, clean and<br />

refreshing. It is clearly designed as<br />

session ale and weighs in at a moreish<br />

4.6% a.b.v. At £1.70 for a 33cl bottle it is<br />

reasonably priced and if there is any<br />

justice, it will be available at every one<br />

of this summer's barbecues. You can<br />

also catch it on tap at The Cumberland<br />

Bar, Kay’s Bar, The Filmhouse, The<br />

Windsor Buffet, The Malt & Hops, The<br />

Halfway House, The Blue Blazer & The<br />

Stockbridge Tap.<br />

James Wrobel is the proprietor of<br />

Cornelius Beer and Wine on<br />

18-20 Easter Road, and can be<br />

contacted on 0131 652 2405.<br />

www.corneliusbeers.com

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