Download July 2010 - Bite Magazine
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26<br />
BITE<br />
‘n’<br />
SLURP<br />
BEER<br />
THE CALIFORNIA COMMON<br />
Full steam ahead!<br />
It is not widely appreciated, but<br />
lager is a bloody difficult drink to<br />
make. Even the blandest commercial<br />
pish requires meticulous control of<br />
yeast and a constant cool<br />
temperature throughout the brewing<br />
process.<br />
This is one of the reasons why<br />
pilsner originated in Bavaria<br />
and the Czech Republic –<br />
regions with an abundance of<br />
cool, stone vaulted cellars. A<br />
commodity that was in short<br />
supply during the Californian<br />
gold rush.<br />
This posed a problem for the<br />
state’s breweries. After a 14-hour shift<br />
of hard labour in very dangerous and<br />
extremely hot conditions, the<br />
prospectors were hardly in the mood<br />
for a pint of mild or a bottle of porter.<br />
The solution hit upon was to brew<br />
using a bottom fermenting lager yeast,<br />
but at the warmer temperatures<br />
associated with heavier beers. The<br />
resulting drink had the light, zesty,<br />
refreshing character of a lager, but with<br />
the depth and creaminess of a pale ale.<br />
One of the downsides of this new beer<br />
was its volatility. New casks had to be<br />
vented with a great hiss and a blast of<br />
beery smoke. Thus the beer was<br />
christened Steam beer.<br />
The best known of Steam beers is<br />
produced by the Anchor brewery in<br />
San Francisco, but now an Edinburghbased<br />
brewer has introduced a Scottish<br />
interpretation of this American classic.<br />
The California Common is the<br />
inaugural release from Knops Brewing<br />
Co.<br />
It is a pretty, vibrant, golden<br />
beer with gentle<br />
effervescence and a fine head.<br />
Nicely aromatic with hints of<br />
wet straw and shortbread<br />
biscuit. The palate is light<br />
and zesty with a crisp finish<br />
and a quite definite citrus<br />
edge. It is by no means a<br />
complex or powerful beer,<br />
but it is poised, balanced, clean and<br />
refreshing. It is clearly designed as<br />
session ale and weighs in at a moreish<br />
4.6% a.b.v. At £1.70 for a 33cl bottle it is<br />
reasonably priced and if there is any<br />
justice, it will be available at every one<br />
of this summer's barbecues. You can<br />
also catch it on tap at The Cumberland<br />
Bar, Kay’s Bar, The Filmhouse, The<br />
Windsor Buffet, The Malt & Hops, The<br />
Halfway House, The Blue Blazer & The<br />
Stockbridge Tap.<br />
James Wrobel is the proprietor of<br />
Cornelius Beer and Wine on<br />
18-20 Easter Road, and can be<br />
contacted on 0131 652 2405.<br />
www.corneliusbeers.com