GUIDE TO MADRID

Guide to Madrid
El Escorial
Enjoying a suitably majestic setting in the southern foothills of the Sierra de Guadarrama, the Royal Monastery
of San Lorenzo de El Escorial was commissioned by Felipe II as a mausoleum for the tomb of his father, Carlos I.
The name commemorates the victory over the French at St Quentin on the Feast of St Laurence, in 1557. Building
began in 1563 and, from the outset, the king took a keen interest in the smallest details of the project, even down
to the choice of site. The complex was finally completed in 1595 and comprised a basilica, a royal palace, a
monastery, a seminary and a library. This stupendous granite monument to the king’s personal aspirations and
to the ideals of the Catholic Counter-Reformation still inspires awe, if not always affection.
Top 10 Features
1 Basílica
The basílica takes the form of a Greek cross, with
vaults decorated with frescoes by Luca Giordano.
2
King’s Apartments
Felipe II’s personal quarters appear surprisingly
modest – just three simply furnished rooms with
whitewashed walls and terracotta tiling. Look out for the
hand chair used to carry the gout-ridden king on his last
journey here in 1598.
3
Pantheon of the Kings
Work on the domed burial chamber directly under
the high altar of the basílica, was completed in 1654. The
walls were surfaced with marble, bronze and jasper by
Giovanni Battista Crescenzi.
4
Chapter Houses
The vaulted ceilings were decorated in the 17th
century by Italian artists Fabrizio Castello and Nicola
Granelo. Hanging from the walls are priceless canvases
by Titian, Tintoretto, Veronese, Velázquez and El Greco.
5 Library
The magnificent barrel-vaulted hall has stunning
ceiling frescoes by Italian artists. The shelves contain
4,000 precious manuscripts and 40,000 folio volumes –
arranged facing outwards to allow air to permeate the
pages.
6
Gallery of Battles
Recently restored, this gallery is decorated with
superb frescoes by 16th-century Italian artists. The
paintings were intended to validate Felipe II’s military
campaigns.
7
Main Staircase
Look up from this magnificent staircase to admire
the “Glory of the Spanish monarchy” frescoes by Luca
Giordano.
8
Strolling Gallery
Felipe II enjoyed indoor walks in this airy gallery.
The meridians on the floor were added in the 18th
century.
9
Courtyard of the Kings
This courtyard offers the best view of the basílica
façade, its twin belltowers and awe-inspiring dome. The
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larger-than-life statues of Old Testament kings over the
portal give the courtyard its name.
10
Architecture Museum
This small exhibition of plans, scale models and
workmen’s tools explains how El Escorial was
constructed. Note the wooden cranes and hoists used
to haul the blocks of granite into place.
Further Features of El Escorial
1 Cenotaphs
These superb bronze sculptures on either side of
the high altar are by an Italian father and son team, Leone
and Pompeo Leoni. On the left is Carlos I (Emperor
Charles V), shown with his wife, daughter and sisters;
opposite is Felipe II, three of his wives and his son, Don
Carlos.
2
King’s Deathbed
It was in this simple canopied bed that Felipe II died
on 13 September 1598, it is said as “the seminary
children were singing the dawn mass”. The bed was
positioned so that the king could easily see the high altar
of the basilica on one side and the mountains of the
Sierra de Guadarrama on the other.
3
The Martyrdom of St Maurice and the Theban
Legion
This ethereal work by El Greco (1541–1614) was intended
for an altar in the basilica but Felipe II found the style
inappropriate and relegated it to the sacristy. El Greco
never received another royal commission.
4
Portrait of Felipe II
In this stately painting by Dutch artist Antonio Moro,
the king, then aged 37, is wearing the suit of armour he
wore at the battle of St Quentin in 1557. It was to be
Felipe’s only victory on the battlefield.
5
Cellini Crucifix
Florentine master craftsman Benvenuto Cellini
sculpted this exquisite image of Christ from a single block
of Carrara marble. It was presented to Felipe II in 1562
by Francisco de Medici, Grand Duke of Tuscany.
6 Calvary
This moving painting is by 15th-century Flemish
artist Rogier van der Weyden. Felipe II knew the
Netherlands well and was an avid collector of Flemish
art.
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Sights to See