GUIDE TO MADRID

Guide to Madrid
A Morning Walk Around Old
Madrid
Begin the morning at Plaza de la Villa with its
handsome 16th- and 17th-century palaces. Take the busy
Calle Mayor as far as Calle de Felipe III, then turn into
Plaza Mayor . Cross this magnificent square diagonally,
leaving by the ancient Calle Toledo, once the main exit
south from the city. On the way look out for the Hernanz
rope store (see Casa Hernanz) and other reminders that
this was once an artisans’ quarter. Looming on the left
is the Baroque Colegiata de San Isidro . Continue to
La Latina metro.
Turn and follow Plaza de la Cebada, past the modern
covered market. Turn right into Plaza del Humilladero
and cross this square to the adjoining Plaza de San
Andrés and its huge domed church. Straight ahead is a
16th-century palace, now the Museo San Isidro . Follow
the path round the back of the church into Costanilla de
San Andrés, a narrow street which opens onto the
historic Plaza de la Paja, a good area for bars and
restaurants. On the corner of Calle de Alfonso VI is the
Colegio de San IIdefonso whose students chant the
results of the Christmas National Lottery in a distinctive
sing-song.
By now you’ll probably be ready for a well-earned lun-ch.
Vegetarians will be tempted by El Estragón (Costanilla
de San Andrés 10); another good choice is the Taberna
Bilbao next door (No.8).
A Day on the Paseo del Prado
Morning
Begin at Plaza de Cibeles and take a peek at the palatial
central hall of the Main Post Office (see Palacio de
Comunicaciones). Plans to redirect traffic away from the
Paseo del Prado have been frustrated, but the central
boulevard still makes a pleasant walk, with plenty of
shade in summer. Cross the road to Plaza de la Lealtad
and the garden terrace of the Hotel Ritz – a delightful
spot for coffee.
Continue past the Neo-Classical façade of the Museo
del Prado and you’ll come to Plaza de Murillo and the
Real Jardín Botánico. Allow at least an hour here to
make the most of the verdant tranquillity.
On leaving the garden, cross the Paseo del Prado and
double back to Plaza Cánovas del Castillo and Ventura
Rodríguez’s splendid Neptune Fountain. The small side
streets here are crammed with plenty of tempting tapas
bars and restaurants. You could try La Platería for a
light lunch.
Afternoon
After lunch, take the small detour into Plaza de las Cortes,
to admire the impressive portico of the Congreso de
los Diputados . Return to the Paseo del Prado and on
your left is the Museo ThyssenBornemisza which will
occupy the rest of the afternoon. Take the central
boulevard to return to your starting point, Plaza de las
Cibeles.
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A Day in Royal Madrid
Morning
Catch the first guided tour of the morning (10:30am) at
the Monasterio de las Descalzas Reales . On leaving,
cross Plaza San Martín to Calle de Hilera, then turn right
onto Calle del Arenal. Follow this busy street to Plaza de
Isabel II, the best place to admire Madrid’s opera house,
the Teatro Real. Follow Calle Felipe V alongside the
theatre until you come to Plaza de Oriente and the
Palacio Real . The palace is closed at least once a week
for official functions but, if it is open, it is worth allocating
an hour to looking around.
There are plenty of places to eat in the vicinity of Plaza
de Oriente, for example the café of the same name (see
Café de Oriente). A plaque on the wall nearby reminds
visitors that this was once the treasury house where the
artist Velázquez had his studio.
Afternoon
After the frantic activity of the morning, enjoy a restful
afternoon in the Casa de Campo park. If you didn’t
lunch at a café, a picnic may be a good idea. You could
stock up at the Oriente’s delicatessen, just round the
corner at Calle Carlos III, 3 (see El Obrador del Café de
Oriente). To get to Casa de Campo take the metro from
Opera (on Plaza Isabel II) to Lago (line R to Principe Pío,
then line 10). Here you can either enjoy a spot of peaceful
sunbathing and people-watching, or take in one of the
many attractions of the park.
A Day’s Shopping
Morning
Leave Serrano metro station, heading south and limber
up with a spot of window shopping on Salamanca’s main
fashion drag. Turn left into Calle Columela – try not to
pay too much attention to Mallorca’s mouthwatering
displays of cakes and pastries – then left again into Calle
Claudio Coello, a delightful street lined with private art
galleries, antique shops and boutiques. Don’t miss Capa
Sculptures (No. 19) and Monasterio Antígüedades (No.
21). Look left at Calle de Goya for the entrance to the
shopping mall, El Jardín de Serrano . Cross Goya, then
continue along Calle de Claudio Coello to Calle de
Hermosilla.
As many Spanish shops still take an extended lunch break
and siesta from 2pm to 5pm, this is the perfect moment
to stop for lunch. Choices abound, but leading contenders
include Teatríz for more formal eating, the tapas bar at
Estay or the reasonably priced pizza and pasta joint,
Gino’s .
Afternoon
Give Calle de Hermosilla the once-over, then resume
your walk on Calle Claudio Coello, which boasts designer
names such as Angel Schlesser, Antonio Pernas and
Cristina Castañer . At Calle de Ayala turn left to return
to Calle de Serrano, where you can either ogle over the
designer goods and dream, or blow your budget on a
beautiful handbag or pair of shoes.
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Suggested Itineraries