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THE M A G A Z I N E - Desert Magazine of the Southwest

THE M A G A Z I N E - Desert Magazine of the Southwest

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We found <strong>the</strong><br />

'Three Turkey'<br />

Cliff Dwellings<br />

By RICHARD F. VAN VALKENBURGH<br />

Crumbling walls and foundations <strong>of</strong> literally thousands <strong>of</strong> prehistoric Indian<br />

dwellings are to be found scattered over <strong>the</strong> desert area in southwestern<br />

United States. Most <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>m are well known to archaeologists who have explored<br />

<strong>the</strong>m and preserved artifacts recovered from <strong>the</strong> ruins. Recently a Navajo<br />

medicine man led Richard Van Valkenburgh, ethnologist in <strong>the</strong> U. S. Indian<br />

service, to a group <strong>of</strong> well-preserved cliff dwellings not previously reported.<br />

Here is <strong>the</strong> first published story <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> rediscovery <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>se ancient<br />

houses in an unnamed canyon in nor<strong>the</strong>astern Arizona.<br />

/ / IGH up in a wind and water worn<br />

/ / cove in <strong>the</strong> precipitous wall <strong>of</strong> an<br />

unnamed and unmapped canyon in<br />

nor<strong>the</strong>astern Arizona is a well preserved<br />

group <strong>of</strong> prehistoric cliff dwellings,<br />

which, as far as scientific records show,<br />

have never been entered by white man or<br />

living Indian.<br />

My first hint <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> existence <strong>of</strong> this<br />

well-concealed habitation <strong>of</strong> ancient Indian<br />

tribesmen came in 1934 when I was<br />

doing field work in Canyon de Chelly.<br />

With a party <strong>of</strong> Navajo companions, I<br />

was camped at <strong>the</strong> base <strong>of</strong> a sandstone<br />

wall across from where <strong>the</strong> well-known<br />

White House cliff dwelling is located.<br />

One day while we were lounging on<br />

<strong>the</strong> floor <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> canyon, catching <strong>the</strong><br />

warming rays <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> winter sun, one <strong>of</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong> Navajos mentioned a group <strong>of</strong> houses<br />

which he believed that no white man had<br />

ever seen. He said <strong>the</strong>y could be identified<br />

by three large turkeys painted in<br />

brown and white pigment on one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

exposed walls.<br />

When I asked him about <strong>the</strong> location,<br />

he gave an indefinite gesture with his<br />

arm which might have meant east, south,<br />

west or north—and would talk no more.<br />

I knew this man too well to press <strong>the</strong><br />

matter any fur<strong>the</strong>r, but I made a mental<br />

note that this was a story to be followed.<br />

I was sure he was telling <strong>the</strong> truth.<br />

During <strong>the</strong> next three years I made inquiry<br />

among my Navajo friends, but<br />

gained not a single clue as to <strong>the</strong> location<br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> mysterious house with <strong>the</strong> three<br />

turkeys.<br />

Then, one day in June 1937, Avoo'anlh<br />

nezi, an intelligent old Navajo medi-<br />

cine man whose hogan is far back in <strong>the</strong><br />

large ponderosa pine area <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Navajo<br />

reservation, asked me to furnish transportation<br />

for a party <strong>of</strong> Indians who<br />

wished to get red and white pigments<br />

for <strong>the</strong> sand pictures to be used at a Male<br />

Shooting chant—a Navajo "sing" held<br />

for healing purposes.<br />

With Avoo'anlh nezi as guide, we followed<br />

<strong>the</strong> little-traveled road that led in<br />

<strong>the</strong> general direction <strong>of</strong> Canyon de Chelly.<br />

We soon left <strong>the</strong> sun streaked shadows<br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> dense pine forest. Below us lay<br />

miles <strong>of</strong> pifion and juniper clad mesa<br />

land. In <strong>the</strong> foreground only <strong>the</strong> gash <strong>of</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong> high red walls <strong>of</strong> Canyon de Chelly<br />

broke <strong>the</strong> green sweep <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> desert. Far<br />

in <strong>the</strong> background, rising in hazy blue,<br />

stood <strong>the</strong> Blue mountains near Blanding,<br />

Utah, and <strong>the</strong> Sleeping Ute close to Cortez,<br />

Colorado. No wonder <strong>the</strong>se ranges<br />

are sacred to <strong>the</strong> Navajo.<br />

We dropped <strong>of</strong>f <strong>the</strong> mountain down a<br />

steep and rutty wagon trail. The trail became<br />

dim and soon we were bumping<br />

across rolling tableland covered with<br />

chemise and clumps <strong>of</strong> pifion. As we<br />

traveled far<strong>the</strong>r and deeper into <strong>the</strong> wild<br />

country, <strong>the</strong> terrain became more broken.<br />

Deep gullies forced us to leave our car.<br />

A dim foot-trail wound through <strong>the</strong><br />

pinon pine ahead <strong>of</strong> us. My Indian companions<br />

evidently had been over <strong>the</strong> trail<br />

before. Within a half mile we came<br />

abruptly to <strong>the</strong> rim <strong>of</strong> a deep canyon,<br />

gashed in <strong>the</strong> floor <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> tableland over<br />

which we had been traveling.<br />

Our path zig-zagged down a precipitous<br />

sandstone cliff and led to a deserted<br />

hogan in a little amphi<strong>the</strong>ater formed by<br />

<strong>the</strong> canyon walls. Surrounding <strong>the</strong> old<br />

Navajo dwelling was a tiny meadow <strong>of</strong><br />

green and violet beeweed.<br />

Then we climbed out <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> canyon on<br />

<strong>the</strong> opposite side and soon came to <strong>the</strong><br />

place where <strong>the</strong> medicine men were to<br />

obtain <strong>the</strong>ir pigments.<br />

The Indians got down on <strong>the</strong>ir hands<br />

and knees and scraped <strong>the</strong> colored sands<br />

into red and white piles. Then <strong>the</strong>y took<br />

flour sacks from <strong>the</strong>ir belts and scooped<br />

up <strong>the</strong> pigment and placed it in <strong>the</strong>ir<br />

bags. Soon <strong>the</strong>se bright-hued sands would<br />

be used for <strong>the</strong> picturization <strong>of</strong> Navajo<br />

folklore. Avoo'anlh nezi, with <strong>the</strong> masterly<br />

skill <strong>of</strong> a veteran medicine priest,<br />

would be drawing intricate designs with<br />

it on <strong>the</strong> floor <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> hogan <strong>of</strong> a sick<br />

Navajo.<br />

With sacks well filled we took <strong>the</strong> back<br />

trail. The day was warm and <strong>the</strong> Indians<br />

perspired under <strong>the</strong> heavy loads <strong>the</strong>y<br />

were carrying. When we reached <strong>the</strong> old<br />

hogan in <strong>the</strong> little meadow at <strong>the</strong> bottom<br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> canyon we stopped in <strong>the</strong> shade to<br />

rest and smoke.<br />

After a while Avoo'anlh nezi took his<br />

cornhusk cigarette from his lips and said<br />

to me: "Hosteen, hidden around <strong>the</strong> bend<br />

that lies under <strong>the</strong> red cliff one will find<br />

<strong>the</strong> opening to a deep and narrow canyon<br />

which leads to an old cliff house. Few<br />

white men, if any, have seen this place.<br />

The sun is still high—shall I lead you<br />

<strong>the</strong>re?"<br />

I told him I would like to see <strong>the</strong> cliff<br />

house, and we started immediately. We<br />

were soon in a deep and narrow canyon<br />

hemmed in by sheer 500-foot walls.<br />

Clumps <strong>of</strong> mountain oak bordered <strong>the</strong><br />

N O V E M B E R , 1938 11

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