THE M A G A Z I N E - Desert Magazine of the Southwest
THE M A G A Z I N E - Desert Magazine of the Southwest
THE M A G A Z I N E - Desert Magazine of the Southwest
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We found <strong>the</strong><br />
'Three Turkey'<br />
Cliff Dwellings<br />
By RICHARD F. VAN VALKENBURGH<br />
Crumbling walls and foundations <strong>of</strong> literally thousands <strong>of</strong> prehistoric Indian<br />
dwellings are to be found scattered over <strong>the</strong> desert area in southwestern<br />
United States. Most <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>m are well known to archaeologists who have explored<br />
<strong>the</strong>m and preserved artifacts recovered from <strong>the</strong> ruins. Recently a Navajo<br />
medicine man led Richard Van Valkenburgh, ethnologist in <strong>the</strong> U. S. Indian<br />
service, to a group <strong>of</strong> well-preserved cliff dwellings not previously reported.<br />
Here is <strong>the</strong> first published story <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> rediscovery <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>se ancient<br />
houses in an unnamed canyon in nor<strong>the</strong>astern Arizona.<br />
/ / IGH up in a wind and water worn<br />
/ / cove in <strong>the</strong> precipitous wall <strong>of</strong> an<br />
unnamed and unmapped canyon in<br />
nor<strong>the</strong>astern Arizona is a well preserved<br />
group <strong>of</strong> prehistoric cliff dwellings,<br />
which, as far as scientific records show,<br />
have never been entered by white man or<br />
living Indian.<br />
My first hint <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> existence <strong>of</strong> this<br />
well-concealed habitation <strong>of</strong> ancient Indian<br />
tribesmen came in 1934 when I was<br />
doing field work in Canyon de Chelly.<br />
With a party <strong>of</strong> Navajo companions, I<br />
was camped at <strong>the</strong> base <strong>of</strong> a sandstone<br />
wall across from where <strong>the</strong> well-known<br />
White House cliff dwelling is located.<br />
One day while we were lounging on<br />
<strong>the</strong> floor <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> canyon, catching <strong>the</strong><br />
warming rays <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> winter sun, one <strong>of</strong><br />
<strong>the</strong> Navajos mentioned a group <strong>of</strong> houses<br />
which he believed that no white man had<br />
ever seen. He said <strong>the</strong>y could be identified<br />
by three large turkeys painted in<br />
brown and white pigment on one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
exposed walls.<br />
When I asked him about <strong>the</strong> location,<br />
he gave an indefinite gesture with his<br />
arm which might have meant east, south,<br />
west or north—and would talk no more.<br />
I knew this man too well to press <strong>the</strong><br />
matter any fur<strong>the</strong>r, but I made a mental<br />
note that this was a story to be followed.<br />
I was sure he was telling <strong>the</strong> truth.<br />
During <strong>the</strong> next three years I made inquiry<br />
among my Navajo friends, but<br />
gained not a single clue as to <strong>the</strong> location<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> mysterious house with <strong>the</strong> three<br />
turkeys.<br />
Then, one day in June 1937, Avoo'anlh<br />
nezi, an intelligent old Navajo medi-<br />
cine man whose hogan is far back in <strong>the</strong><br />
large ponderosa pine area <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Navajo<br />
reservation, asked me to furnish transportation<br />
for a party <strong>of</strong> Indians who<br />
wished to get red and white pigments<br />
for <strong>the</strong> sand pictures to be used at a Male<br />
Shooting chant—a Navajo "sing" held<br />
for healing purposes.<br />
With Avoo'anlh nezi as guide, we followed<br />
<strong>the</strong> little-traveled road that led in<br />
<strong>the</strong> general direction <strong>of</strong> Canyon de Chelly.<br />
We soon left <strong>the</strong> sun streaked shadows<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> dense pine forest. Below us lay<br />
miles <strong>of</strong> pifion and juniper clad mesa<br />
land. In <strong>the</strong> foreground only <strong>the</strong> gash <strong>of</strong><br />
<strong>the</strong> high red walls <strong>of</strong> Canyon de Chelly<br />
broke <strong>the</strong> green sweep <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> desert. Far<br />
in <strong>the</strong> background, rising in hazy blue,<br />
stood <strong>the</strong> Blue mountains near Blanding,<br />
Utah, and <strong>the</strong> Sleeping Ute close to Cortez,<br />
Colorado. No wonder <strong>the</strong>se ranges<br />
are sacred to <strong>the</strong> Navajo.<br />
We dropped <strong>of</strong>f <strong>the</strong> mountain down a<br />
steep and rutty wagon trail. The trail became<br />
dim and soon we were bumping<br />
across rolling tableland covered with<br />
chemise and clumps <strong>of</strong> pifion. As we<br />
traveled far<strong>the</strong>r and deeper into <strong>the</strong> wild<br />
country, <strong>the</strong> terrain became more broken.<br />
Deep gullies forced us to leave our car.<br />
A dim foot-trail wound through <strong>the</strong><br />
pinon pine ahead <strong>of</strong> us. My Indian companions<br />
evidently had been over <strong>the</strong> trail<br />
before. Within a half mile we came<br />
abruptly to <strong>the</strong> rim <strong>of</strong> a deep canyon,<br />
gashed in <strong>the</strong> floor <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> tableland over<br />
which we had been traveling.<br />
Our path zig-zagged down a precipitous<br />
sandstone cliff and led to a deserted<br />
hogan in a little amphi<strong>the</strong>ater formed by<br />
<strong>the</strong> canyon walls. Surrounding <strong>the</strong> old<br />
Navajo dwelling was a tiny meadow <strong>of</strong><br />
green and violet beeweed.<br />
Then we climbed out <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> canyon on<br />
<strong>the</strong> opposite side and soon came to <strong>the</strong><br />
place where <strong>the</strong> medicine men were to<br />
obtain <strong>the</strong>ir pigments.<br />
The Indians got down on <strong>the</strong>ir hands<br />
and knees and scraped <strong>the</strong> colored sands<br />
into red and white piles. Then <strong>the</strong>y took<br />
flour sacks from <strong>the</strong>ir belts and scooped<br />
up <strong>the</strong> pigment and placed it in <strong>the</strong>ir<br />
bags. Soon <strong>the</strong>se bright-hued sands would<br />
be used for <strong>the</strong> picturization <strong>of</strong> Navajo<br />
folklore. Avoo'anlh nezi, with <strong>the</strong> masterly<br />
skill <strong>of</strong> a veteran medicine priest,<br />
would be drawing intricate designs with<br />
it on <strong>the</strong> floor <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> hogan <strong>of</strong> a sick<br />
Navajo.<br />
With sacks well filled we took <strong>the</strong> back<br />
trail. The day was warm and <strong>the</strong> Indians<br />
perspired under <strong>the</strong> heavy loads <strong>the</strong>y<br />
were carrying. When we reached <strong>the</strong> old<br />
hogan in <strong>the</strong> little meadow at <strong>the</strong> bottom<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> canyon we stopped in <strong>the</strong> shade to<br />
rest and smoke.<br />
After a while Avoo'anlh nezi took his<br />
cornhusk cigarette from his lips and said<br />
to me: "Hosteen, hidden around <strong>the</strong> bend<br />
that lies under <strong>the</strong> red cliff one will find<br />
<strong>the</strong> opening to a deep and narrow canyon<br />
which leads to an old cliff house. Few<br />
white men, if any, have seen this place.<br />
The sun is still high—shall I lead you<br />
<strong>the</strong>re?"<br />
I told him I would like to see <strong>the</strong> cliff<br />
house, and we started immediately. We<br />
were soon in a deep and narrow canyon<br />
hemmed in by sheer 500-foot walls.<br />
Clumps <strong>of</strong> mountain oak bordered <strong>the</strong><br />
N O V E M B E R , 1938 11