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WILD GATHERED FOOD PLANTS IN THE EUROPEAN<br />

MEDITERRANEAN: A COMPARATIVE ANALYSIS 1<br />

M. LEONTI, S. NEBEL, D. RIVERA, AND M. HEINRICH<br />

M. Leonti (Center for Pharmacognosy and Phytotherapy, The School of <strong>Pharmacy</strong>, University<br />

of London, 29-39 Brunswick Sq., London WC1N lAX, Tel.: 0044-(0)20-7753-5844, Fax: 0044-<br />

(0)20-7753-5909, Center e-mail: phyto@pharmacy.ac.uk; Dipartimento Farmaco Chimico Tec-<br />

nologico, Universitg~ di Cagliari, Italy), S. Nebel (Center for Pharmacognosy and Phytotherapy,<br />

The School of <strong>Pharmacy</strong>, University of London, 29-39 Brunswick Sq., London WC1N lAX, Tel.:<br />

0044-(0)20-7753-5844, Fax: 0044-(0)20-7753-5909, Center e-mail: phyto@pharmacy.ac.uk),<br />

D. Rivera (Departamento de Biolog[a Vegetal, Facultad de Biologda, Universidad de Murcia,<br />

30100 Murcia, Spain), and M. Heinrich (corresponding author, Center for Pharmacognosy<br />

and Phytotherapy, The School of <strong>Pharmacy</strong>, University of London, 29-39 Brunswick Sq., Lon-<br />

don WC1N lAX, Tel.: 0044-(0)20-7753-5844, Fax: 0044-(0)20-7753-5909, Center e-mail:<br />

phyto@pharmacy.ac.uk). WILD GATHERED FOOD PLANTS 1N THE EUROPEAN MEDITERRANEAN:<br />

A COMPARATIVE ANALYSIS. Economic Botany 60(2): 130-142, 2006, The Mediterranean basin<br />

has a long and multifaceted cultural history and harbors a high biodiversity. Epidemiological<br />

studies have drawn attention to certain traditional Mediterranean diets. However, wild gathered<br />

food species, which are an important, but fast disappearing element of these diets, so far have<br />

been largely neglected in scientific studies. In this study we compare ethnobotanical data ob-<br />

tained from field studies conducted in Southern Italy, Southern Spain, mainland Greece, and<br />

Crete resulting in the identification of a core group of 18 culinary used wild gathered plant<br />

species. This group comprises species like Papaver rhoeas L., Sonchus asper L., S. oleraceus<br />

L., and Silene vulgaris L. We argue that the culinary use of wild gathered weedy greens evolved<br />

together with the neolithization process, since this offered the necessary ecological niches for<br />

them to thrive, thereby enriching and securing the diets of European agriculturalists. Especially<br />

wild gathered Asteraceae species seem to form a sort of proto-nutraceutical, which accounts for<br />

a significant input of biologically active compounds in the diet.<br />

PLANTAS SILVESTRES COMESTIBLES RECOLECTADAS EN EL MEDITERR~NEO EUROPEO: UN ANALI-<br />

SIS COMPARATIVO. I1 bacino Mediterraneo ha vissuto una lunga e multisfaccettata storia culturale<br />

e gode di una ricca biodiversitS. Studi epidemiologici hanno attirato attenzione su certe diete<br />

mediterranee. Attualmente l'uso culinario di piante selvagge e commestibili, elemento impor-<br />

tante di queste diete, si sta perdendo e ha ricevuto poca attenzione dal punto di vista scientifico.<br />

In questo lavoro mettiamo a paragone una serie di dati etnobotanici ottenuti da ricerche di campo<br />

nel sud dell'Italia, nel sud della Spagna, nella Grecia e a Creta risultanti nell'identificazione di<br />

un gruppo principale di 18 specie selvatiche ad uso culinario. Questo gruppo comprende specie<br />

come il Papaver rhoeas L., il Sonchus asper L., il S. oleraceus L. e il Silene vulgaris L. Metti-<br />

amo in evidenza che l'evoluzione dell'uso culinario delle verdure selvatiche ~ avvenuto durante<br />

il processo di neolitizazzione poichd questo ha fomito le nicchie ecologiche necessarie. Attra-<br />

verso il lorD uso gli agricoltori europei hanno arricchito e assicurato la lorD dicta. In modo parti-<br />

colare le specie raccolte selvatiche appartenenti alle Astaraceae sembrano formare un proto-<br />

integratore rappresentando una fonte significativa di composti biologicamente attivi nella dicta.<br />

PIANTE COMMESTIBILI RACCOLTE IN AMBIENTE SELVATICO NELL'EUROPA MEDITERRANEA:<br />

ANALISI COMPARATIVA. La Cuenca Mediterr~nea tiene una historia cultural larga y po-<br />

lifacrtica y alberga una biodiversidad extraordinaria. Diversos estudios epidemiolrgicos han<br />

atrafdo atencidn sobre algunas dietas mediterr~ineas tradicionales. Sin embargo, las especies<br />

silvestres comestibles recolectadas, un elemento importante de estas dietas que va desapare-<br />

ciendo r~pidamente, han sido hasta ahora casie olvidadas en los estudios cientfficos. En este<br />

artfculo comparamos datos etnobotfinicos obtenidos de estudios de campo realizados en el sur<br />

de Italia, de Espafia y de la Grecia continental yen Creta, que conducen a la identificacidn de<br />

un grupo central de 18 especies de plantas recolectadas, silvestres, usadas en alimentacidn.<br />

l Received 30 November 2005; accepted on 1 March 2006.<br />

Economic Botany, 60(2), 2006, pp. 130-142.<br />

9 2006, by The New York Botanical Garden Press, Bronx, NY 10458-5126 U.S.A.


2006] LEONTI, ET AL.: WILD EUROPEAN FOOD PLANTS 131<br />

Este grupo comprende especies como Papaver rhoeas L., Sonchus asper L., S. oleraceus L. y<br />

Silene vulgaris L. Sostenemos que el uso culinario de verduras silvestres y de hierbas de los<br />

campos de cultivo evolucion6 asociado al proceso del neolitizaci6n, que ofreci6 los nichos<br />

ecol6gicos necesarios para el desarrollo de estas especies, enriqueciendo y afianzando las di-<br />

etas de los primeros agricultores europeos. Especialmente las especies silvestres recolectadas<br />

de [la familia] Asteraceae, parecen constituir un tipo de proto-nutracrutico que aporta signi-<br />

ficativamente compuestos biol6gicamente activos a la dieta.<br />

Key words: Mediterranean basin, wild (local) food, comparative analysis, (comparative)<br />

ethnobotany, Neolithicum, weeds, Mediterranean diet(s), history of plant use.<br />

INTRODUCTION<br />

Both in anthropology and ecology, a now clas-<br />

sical distinction has been made between hunter-<br />

gatherers and agriculturalists. The former were<br />

seen to rely regularly on non-cultivated managed<br />

plants, and the latter strictly on cultivated ones<br />

(Shanin 1971). In recent years, various studies<br />

have shown that non-cultivated wild gathered<br />

plants play an important role in supplying sea-<br />

sonal food in rural Mediterranean communities<br />

(Pieroni et al. 2002; Bonet and Vall~s 2002;<br />

Rivera et al. 2005; Tard~o et al. 2005; Tardio et<br />

al. 2006). Wild gathered weedy greens, compris-<br />

ing vegetables and salads, are an especially<br />

important element in local dietary traditions.<br />

Non-cultivated plants grow spontaneously in<br />

self-maintaining populations in natural or semi-<br />

natural ecosystems and can exist independently<br />

of direct human action (Heywood 1999). In prac-<br />

tice, the distinction between cultivated and non-<br />

cultivated species or varieties is not easy since a<br />

continuous spectrum between totally wild and<br />

fully domesticated species exists (Harlan 1992;<br />

Moerman 1994; Logan and Dixon 1994; Hey-<br />

wood 1999). For instance, there are weedy and<br />

cultivated races of einkorn, barley, sorghum, rice,<br />

oats, pearl millet, potato, tomato, pepper, sun-<br />

flower, carrots, radish, and lettuce (Harlan 1992).<br />

Plant and animal domestication is regarded<br />

as the most important cultural development in<br />

the past 13,000 years of human history and, as a<br />

consequence, today we depend on that tiny<br />

fraction of several species that have been do-<br />

mesticated (Diamond 2002). But anthropolo-<br />

gists and nutritionists argue that contemporary<br />

humans are, in a genetic sense, still Stone Agers<br />

and, therefore, are adapted to a pre-agricultural<br />

nutritional pattern (Mann 2004). In contrast to<br />

our current Western diet, the Paleolithic diet<br />

generally consisted more of animal protein, less<br />

serum cholesterol-raising fat, an almost equal<br />

omega-6/omega-3 fatty acid ratio, almost exclu-<br />

sively fruit- and vegetable-derived carbohy-<br />

drates (no grains, refined sugars, or dairy prod-<br />

ucts), more fiber, and more phytochemicals.<br />

Eaton (2000) and Cordain et al. (2002) com-<br />

pared a Paleolithic model experimental diet,<br />

and dietary and epidemiological data of hunter-<br />

gatherers with dietary and epidemiological data<br />

of current Western civilization. In conclusion<br />

they claimed that the alteration of seven major<br />

functional dietary factors, i.e., glycemic load,<br />

fatty acid balance, macronutrient balance, trace<br />

nutrient density, acid-base balance, sodium-<br />

potassium balance, and fiber content, are in<br />

great part responsible for western life-style dis-<br />

eases like cardiovascular diseases, diabetes,<br />

neoplastic diseases, and osteoporosis (Eaton<br />

2000; Mann 2004; Cordain et al. 2005).<br />

With respect to the Mediterranean region,<br />

epidemiological studies confirm the influence<br />

of dietary habits on morbidity patterns and cor-<br />

relate the consumption of fruits, vegetables,<br />

olive oil, and red wine specifically with a lower<br />

rate of coronary heart disease, diabetes, cancer,<br />

and a greater longevity in general (De Lorgeril<br />

et al. 1994, 1998; Keys 1970; Keys 1980;<br />

Trichopoulou et al. 2000). More specifically, a<br />

clinical trial within the "Lyon Diet Heart<br />

Study" concluded that an alpha-linolenic acid-<br />

rich Mediterranean diet was able to lower the<br />

rate of cardiovascular complications after my-<br />

ocardial infarction (De Lorgeril et al. 1994,<br />

1999). Sources of omega-3 fatty acids like<br />

alpha linolenic acid are green vegetables, nuts,<br />

seeds, game, and wild seafood while wild gath-<br />

ered vegetables are especially rich in alpha-<br />

linolenic acids and antioxidants (Biesalski and<br />

Grimm 2004; Crawford et al. 2000; Lionis et al.<br />

1998; Zeghichi et al. 2003).<br />

Also, food is far more than nutrition or culi-<br />

nary art. The relationship between diet and the<br />

condition of the human body and psyche has


132 ECONOMIC BOTANY [VOL. 60<br />

been a subject of discussion at least since<br />

Plato's times (Skiadas and Lascaratos 2001). It<br />

is now generally accepted that plants may be<br />

used both as medicine and food; moreover, it is<br />

difficult to draw a separating line between these<br />

two categories (Etkin 1996; Moerman 1994;<br />

Rivera et al. 2005).<br />

The main goals of this project were to assess<br />

the diversity of wild gathered food plants and<br />

their role in local nutrition and cuisine from a<br />

socio-economic and socio-anthropological per-<br />

spective as well as to characterize a representa-<br />

tive part of the ethnobotanically documented<br />

plant species pharmacologically as well as<br />

chemically (Heinrich et al. 2005; Loboda et al.<br />

2005; Schaffer et al. 2005; The Local Food-<br />

Nutraceutical Consortium 2005). In this contri-<br />

bution, which follows a series of publications<br />

addressing the pharmacological properties of<br />

wild gathered food plants, we want to explore<br />

the historical context, characterize the differ-<br />

ences between wild gathered and cultivated<br />

species, and compare the ethnobotanical results<br />

of the three major field study sites within this<br />

project: Spain, Italy, and Greece.<br />

THE PREHISTORIC AND HISTORIC<br />

CONTEXT OF AGRICULTURAL<br />

CROPS~ VEGETABLES~ AND WEEDS<br />

Wild gathered food plants have been part of<br />

the human diet since time immemorial and it is<br />

argued that past societies made more use of the<br />

wild flora than is done nowadays (Diamond<br />

2002; Harlan 1992; King 1994). Today, only in<br />

rural communities and especially among (ex-<br />

tant) hunter-gatherer societies do wild gathered<br />

foods contribute substantially to the human<br />

diet. This is certainly true since, beginning<br />

about 8600-8000 BC, agricultural practices<br />

began to provide humankind with carbohy-<br />

drates from cereals and proteins from pulses<br />

(Zohary and Hopf 2000). The earliest remains<br />

of the neolithization process in Southern Eu-<br />

rope are dated to 6800 BC in Greece and<br />

around 6000 BC in Southeast Italy, Sicily,<br />

Southern France, and Southern Spain (Zohary<br />

and Hopf 2000).<br />

As a consequence of agricultural activities,<br />

the diet changed dramatically to the heavy re-<br />

liance on only two or three staple crops (Logan<br />

and Dixon 1994). Apparently there were no<br />

vegetables among the "first wave" of domesti-<br />

cates in the Near East (Zohary and Hopf 2000).<br />

The earliest remains of cultivated vegetables<br />

stem from Bronze-Age Egypt (around 2000<br />

BC), but since the soft and therefore easily per-<br />

ishable parts of tubers and vegetables stand a<br />

low chance of being charred and preserved in<br />

archaeological contexts, it is impossible to say<br />

when and where exactly vegetables were culti-<br />

vated for the first time (Zohary and Hopf<br />

2000). In large part, however, cultivated veg-<br />

etables represent an ecological by-product of<br />

early agricultural practices by entering domes-<br />

tication via the back door of weed evolution<br />

(Logan and Dixon 1994; Willerding 1986; Zo-<br />

hary and Hopf 2000). Here we treat weeds as<br />

"wild plants" because their gene pool is not af-<br />

fected deliberately or intentionally by human<br />

activity, even though they thrive in domesti-<br />

cated landscapes. Presumably tolerated and<br />

gathered weeds co-evolved with the crop har-<br />

vest techniques until being taken actively into<br />

cultivation and transformed into the agricul-<br />

tural races known today.<br />

During early agriculture, plant species from<br />

natural communities--which were pioneers of<br />

secondary successions and endowed with short<br />

life cycles and high reproductive capacity--in-<br />

vaded the open space that had been created for<br />

crop cultivation (Barrett 1983). By evolving into<br />

weedy forms and thriving on the tilled arable<br />

land, they created serious problems because<br />

practices that tend to favor crops also tend to<br />

favor weeds (Harlan 1992; Zohary and Hopf<br />

2000). Weed evolution went hand-in-hand with<br />

crop cultivation (Harlan 1992; Zohary and Hopf<br />

2000) because weeds belong to the same ecolog-<br />

ical type as most crop plants (Willerding 1986).<br />

Generally, weeds accompanying agricultural<br />

crops are short-lived plants with life cycles<br />

adapted to the specific crop plants and, in some<br />

cases, can be distributed only together with these<br />

"hosts" (Jacomet et al. 1989; Willerding 1986).<br />

The Middle East is not only one of the largest<br />

gene centers for cultivated plants in the world,<br />

but it is also the largest center for weeds and the<br />

cradle for many weeds common to the temperate<br />

and warm-temperate zones of the world (Zohary<br />

1973). Our modern weeds, and presumably all of<br />

our obligate weeds, did not exist in their present<br />

form before agriculture (Harlan 1992).<br />

Most if not all leafy wild vegetables and the<br />

wild progenitors of today's cultivated vegeta-<br />

bles are weeds (Maurizio 1927). For example,<br />

the family Brassicaceae furnishes many weeds,


2006] LEONTI, ET AL.: WILD EUROPEAN FOOD PLANTS 133<br />

wild gathered food species and crop plants. In<br />

Sicily alone, 24 wild Brassicaceae from 16 gen-<br />

era are occasionally exploited as vegetables<br />

(Heywood 1999), and at least 13 European<br />

Brassicaceae species are under cultivation<br />

(Franke 1997; Harlan 1992). The genera Bras-<br />

sica, Sinapis, and Raphanus are referred to es-<br />

pecially as aggressive weeds capable of infest-<br />

ing agricultural land. These genera also account<br />

for many cultivated and wild-gathered species<br />

and varieties (Heywood 1999; Maurizio 1927;<br />

Zohary and Hopf 2000).<br />

The habitats for weeds in Central Europe de-<br />

veloped with agriculture and the construction of<br />

villages around 5500 BC (4500 BC uncal.)<br />

(Willerding 1986). Weeds follow ecologic<br />

niches created by human activity like fields,<br />

gardens, fallow grounds, pastures, and villages<br />

as well as natural disturbances of all kinds.<br />

Also, they can be introduced intentionally or<br />

unintentionally into ecosystems (Fenton 2000;<br />

Harlan 1992; Stepp and Moerman 2001). Be-<br />

fore the adaptation of agriculture in Central Eu-<br />

rope, weeds would have had a chance to thrive<br />

only in very few highly frequented Mesolithic<br />

resting areas (Willerding 1986), anthropogenic<br />

clearances, and natural succession zones. Fur-<br />

thermore, unintentional introduction of weeds<br />

during the Mesolithic period could have oc-<br />

curred only with species that have bur fruits;<br />

later species with shedding seeds were intro-<br />

duced by way of contaminated crop seeds<br />

spreading via the corridor of the neolithization<br />

process from the Near East and the Balkans<br />

(Willerding 1986). Prior to agricultural prac-<br />

tice, habitats where wild leafy vegetables could<br />

thrive and be gathered were marginal and had<br />

very limited extensions in Europe since dense<br />

woody ecosystems dominated the landscape<br />

(Eberle 1975; Harlan 1992; Willerding 1986).<br />

Agricultural practice has not decreased the<br />

availability of wild plant resources as noted, for<br />

example, by King (1994) but rather has<br />

changed the bias from starchy resources from<br />

trees (acorns, nuts, beechnuts, cambium)<br />

toward a diversification and increase in the use<br />

of weeds as vegetables. Apart from providing<br />

valuable nutrients, vitamins, omega-3 fatty<br />

acids, phytochemicals, antioxidants, and fiber,<br />

these vegetables were also part of the back-up<br />

resources should the crop harvest fail (Fenton<br />

2000; Huss-Ashmore and Johnston 1994; Mau-<br />

rizio 1927).<br />

LOCAL FOOD IN ~OUTHERN EUROPE<br />

The many rural areas and communities in<br />

Southern Europe, which follow traditional life<br />

styles and which provide examples of tradi-<br />

tional agricultural practice, serve as prime ex-<br />

amples of using disturbed habitats and the<br />

weeds growing there. This includes the use of<br />

vegetables and fruits gathered in the wild.<br />

Southern Europe (Albania, Greece, Cyprus,<br />

Malta, Italy, France, Spain, Portugal) harbors a<br />

large number of botanical species, a great pro-<br />

portion of which are endemic (Eberle 1975). It<br />

is estimated that the Mediterranean countries<br />

altogether harbor around 20,000 botanical<br />

species (Bayer et al. 1990), including weedy<br />

and shrubby species, many of which have so far<br />

not been investigated chemically and pharma-<br />

cologically.<br />

However, due to changing socio-economical<br />

contexts, the use of wild gathered greens is de-<br />

creasing (Bonet and Vallbs 2002; Pieroni et al.<br />

2002; Tardfo et al. 2005). It is noteworthy that<br />

this loss in local knowledge and use of wild<br />

gathered plant species is paralleled by an in-<br />

creased interest in such resources by the gastro-<br />

nomic and intellectual elite in the search for<br />

new stimuli, culinary experiences, and healthy<br />

food (for example, visit http://www.slowfood.it).<br />

Forbes (1976) reports that in past winters,<br />

many villagers ate wild greens as a main dish<br />

with bread and olive oil as often as every day,<br />

compared to twice a week in 1975. In Galli-<br />

cian6 (Nebel 2005), people report that wild<br />

gathered foods were especially important dur-<br />

ing World War II when food was scarce and that<br />

some decades ago, people working in the fields<br />

ate freshly gathered wild vegetables with bread<br />

and olive oil for lunch. Wild gathered foods<br />

represented a healthy and adequate way to cope<br />

with food shortages derived from crop failure or<br />

financial poverty. Nowadays, young people<br />

from remote rural villages like Gallician6 mi-<br />

grate abroad where they work to earn money,<br />

which allows them to pay the bills and buy the<br />

Western goods they did not have before. The<br />

few young people remaining in the villages<br />

only occasionally follow the tradition of gather-<br />

ing wild foods since small food markets with<br />

conventional foods have opened and displaced<br />

the traditional life style.<br />

Nevertheless, wild vegetables and fruits are<br />

still used in traditional dishes mainly by the


134 ECONOMIC BOTANY [VOL. 60<br />

older generation. Both sexes gather wild veg-<br />

etables. In Castelmezzano (Southern Italy) and<br />

Sierra de Segura (Southern Spain), women are<br />

more knowledgeable, which seems to be the<br />

rule in the Mediterranean (Forbes 1976; Nebel<br />

2005; Pieroni et al. 2005; Verde et al. 1998,<br />

2001).<br />

Leafy wild greens can be gathered from late<br />

autumn until early summer with a peak of abun-<br />

dance in the springtime. Historically, winter is<br />

considered the worst time of the year because of<br />

the limited range of foods available. It is during<br />

this period that the wild gathered vegetables<br />

offer dietary diversity (Forbes 1976). Wild gath-<br />

ered vegetables therefore can be nutritionally<br />

important (Tukan et al. 1998) by supplying vita-<br />

mins, omega-3 fatty acids, polyunsaturated fatty<br />

acids (PUFAs), minerals, antioxidants, and fiber<br />

(Huss-Ashmore and Johnston 1994; Zeghichi et<br />

al. 2003) at a time when garden vegetables are<br />

not yet ready to be harvested and no fresh fruits<br />

are available.<br />

METHODS<br />

The field studies of the "Local Food-<br />

Nutraceuticals" project took place in six rural<br />

communities or regions of Greece, Italy, and<br />

Spain between 2002 and 2004; most of the indi-<br />

vidual studies already have been published. The<br />

fieldwork in Greece was undertaken in the Her-<br />

aklion province on the island of Crete and in<br />

the region of Zahorochoria in the province of<br />

Ioannina in the northwestern part of the Greek<br />

mainland. The Italian study sites are Castelmez-<br />

zano, a Southern Italian village in the region of<br />

Basilicata (Pieroni et al. 2005) and the ethnic<br />

Greek community of Gallician6 in the region of<br />

Calabria (Nebel 2005; Nebel et al. n.d.). The<br />

field sites in Spain were in the Serranfa de<br />

Cuenca, Sierras de Alcaraz and Segura, A1-<br />

bacete, and Murcia (Rivera et al. 2005; Verde et<br />

al. 2003).<br />

Similar methods, including semi-structured<br />

interviews and participant observation, were<br />

used in all the field sites to document the tradi-<br />

tional knowledge regarding wild gathered food<br />

plants. Detailed information about the species<br />

used including recipes, seasonal availability,<br />

and the popularity of their use was pooled in a<br />

database for in-depth analysis and comparison.<br />

In order to secure database uniformity and com-<br />

parability, mushrooms were excluded from the<br />

discussion even though they are eagerly gath-<br />

ered (for details, see Heinrich et al. 2005; Nebel<br />

et al. n.d.; Pieroni et al. 2005; Rivera et al.<br />

2005, 2006).<br />

RESULTS AND DISCUSSIONS<br />

FOOD PLANTS IN SIX MEDITERRANEAN<br />

REGIONS<br />

Wild gathered vegetables are a category of<br />

their own regarding folk taxonomic aspects. In<br />

Crete, edible wild greens are called vrouves or<br />

horta, while in Epirus they are called lahana. In<br />

Castellmezzano wild gathered greens are called<br />

foglie (leaves) and include semi-cultivated<br />

species (Pieroni et al. 2005), while in Galli-<br />

cian6 they are called chbrta (Nebel 2005), i.e.,<br />

greens used as food or herbs. The people inhab-<br />

iting the mountain ranges of Alcaraz and Se-<br />

gura of Southern Spain do not use a term to de-<br />

scribe wild gathered greens as a whole. Instead<br />

they use three terms to describe different<br />

groups of wild gathered greens: collejas de-<br />

scribes the plants from which the young sprouts<br />

and leaves are used; esparragos describes those<br />

from which the young shoots are eaten, such as<br />

Asparagus sp., Bryonia sp., or Humulus sp.;<br />

and the term chicorias refers to the Cichori-<br />

oides (Asteraceae), which typically is con-<br />

sumed raw in salads like Cichorium sp., Chon-<br />

drilla sp., Taraxacum sp., or Leontodon sp.<br />

(Verde et al. 2003).<br />

In the six field studies, we documented 318<br />

wild or semi-cultivated food plant species: 173<br />

species in Spain, 147 in Greece, and 84 in Italy<br />

(Fig. 1). Of these, only 18 are used in all three<br />

countries (Table 2). The genera with the highest<br />

number of species used are Taraxacum (11),<br />

Rumex (9), Allium (8), Prunus (8), and Onopor-<br />

don (7). The most common mode of prepara-<br />

tion is first cooking and then frying them to-<br />

gether with garlic and olive oil (Table 1). The<br />

plant family contributing the most members to<br />

wild gathered food plants is the Asteraceae with<br />

a total of 83 species (26%). The second most<br />

important family is the Rosaceae with 36 gath-<br />

ered species whose fruits are either eaten raw,<br />

dried, or in the form of jams. In general, wild<br />

fruit like blackberries, pears, or arbutus fruit,<br />

are preferably eaten by children (Forbes 1976;<br />

Gait and Gait 1978; Nebel 2005; Tardfo et al.<br />

2005). The 24 Liliaceae (s. 1.) are sought for<br />

their corms as well as for their shoots. Shoots<br />

such as Asparagus spp. are fried with eggs and


2006] LEONTI, ET AL.: WILD EUROPEAN FOOD PLANTS 135<br />

~Greece 147<br />

105<br />

26<br />

118<br />

27 -<br />

Spain 173)<br />

Fig. 1. Wild gathered species recorded during field research: Spain 173, Greece, 147, Italy 84.<br />

the bulbs of Muscari comosum (L.) Mill.,<br />

which have been in demand since the early<br />

Roman times (Apicius 1991), often pickled.<br />

The 20 Apiaceae are used as vegetables or<br />

salads [Apium nodiflorum (L.) Lag.] or as<br />

spices [Foeniculum vulgare ssp. piperitum<br />

(Ucria) Cout]. The Brassicaceae (19) are one of<br />

the most important sources for wild gathered<br />

greens as well as cultivated species. Eruca<br />

sativa Mill. (rocket salad) has become very<br />

popular in recent years and is used raw in sal-<br />

ads while species from the genus Brassica and<br />

Sinapis are boiled and then fried with garlic.<br />

Most of the 14 Lamiaceae are used as spices<br />

and infusions (Thymus spp., Mentha spp., and<br />

Origanum spp.) except Prasium majus L. from<br />

Crete, which is stir-fried or used in traditional<br />

vegetable pies. The Boraginaceae are frequently<br />

used in Spain (7 out of 11) where they are an<br />

ingredient for a hot-pot with chickpeas or pota-<br />

toes. The 10 Fabaceae are exploited for their<br />

seeds with a few exceptions where the flowers<br />

(Robinia pseudoacacia L.) or the roots (Gly-<br />

cyrrhiza glabra L.) are used.<br />

In order to contrast the importance of a plant<br />

family regarding their number of wild gathered<br />

species, the second column of Table 1 shows<br />

the number of cultivated species with European<br />

parentage. The plant family with most species<br />

under cultivation in Europe and adjacent areas<br />

is the Apiaceae with 14 species cultivated<br />

today while only one Boraginaceae (Borago of-<br />

ficinalis L.) is cultivated for food purposes<br />

(Franke 1997; Harlan 1992; Zohary and Hopf<br />

2000).<br />

A COMPARISON OF THE FOOD<br />

PLANT USAGE<br />

The most striking aspect of the comparison is<br />

the great diversity and relatively low degree of<br />

overlap of species used in the three countries,<br />

which of course depends also on the geographi-<br />

cal distribution of the species. On the other<br />

hand and considering the common cultural<br />

background, a comparison between the plants<br />

used by the descendents of the Magna Graecia<br />

in Southern Italy (Gallicianb) and in Greece<br />

(Crete and Epirus), both living in regions with<br />

similar vegetation, is highly illuminating (Hein-<br />

rich et al. 2005; Nebel and Heinrich n. d.). Of<br />

the 38 plants used in Gallicianb, 21 are used in<br />

Greece, too.<br />

Apium nodiflorum (L.) Lag is used in Italian<br />

communities and the Graecanic area, but only<br />

one reference to the use of A. nodiflorum in<br />

Greece (Cyprus) was found in the literature<br />

(Savvides 2000). Reseda alba L. is heavily used<br />

in Gallician6 but not in Italian communities


136<br />

TABLE 1.<br />

RANEAN.<br />

ECONOMIC BOTANY [VOL. 60<br />

PLANT FAMILIES MOST UTILIZED FOR WILD GATHERED FOODS IN THE EUROPEAN MEDITER-<br />

Number of<br />

Family species* Parts used Preparation Period of gathering<br />

Asteraceae 83 Whorls, shoots, stems, Boiled and fried with Spring<br />

(c:6/r:8) roots, receptacles olive oil and garlic<br />

Rosaceae 36 Fruits Raw, jam, dried Summer, autumn<br />

(c:l 3/r:3)<br />

Liliaceae (s. 1.) 24 Bulbs, corms Omelet, boiled and Spring, Autumn,<br />

(c:8/r:7) fried, pickled winter<br />

Apiaceae 20 Shoots, leaves, roots, Salad, boiled and fried, Spring, summer<br />

(c: 14/r: 1) seeds spice<br />

Brassicaceae 19 Shoots, leaves Salad, boiled and fried Winter, spring<br />

(c: 13/r:2)<br />

Lamiaceae 14 Aerial parts Spice, infusion Spring, summer<br />

(c:l l/r:5)<br />

Boraginaceae 11 Shoots Soups, stews, pies, Spring, summer<br />

(c: 1/r: 14) fried<br />

Fabaceae (s. 1.) 10 Fruits, aerial parts, Raw, boiled Spring, summer<br />

(c: 12/r:4) root, flower<br />

Polygonaceae 9 Leaves, shoots Boiled and fried, pies Spring<br />

(c:0)<br />

Chenopodiaceae 5 Shoots, aerial parts Boiled and fried, pies Spring, summer<br />

(c:4/r:9)<br />

Scrophulariaceae 5 Shoots Salad, boiled and fried Spring, summer<br />

(c:0)<br />

* Most important plant families as sources for wild gathered greens and fruits. Number of cultivated food species (c:)<br />

per family with European parentage are given in parenthesis as well as the ranking (r:) based on the number of cultivated<br />

species. For comparison: Poaceae 3 (c:l l/r:6). (after Harlan 1992, Franke 1997, Zohary and Hopf 2000).<br />

where the plant is considered too bitter. The<br />

tops of the shoots are eaten raw seasoned with<br />

olive oil or after being cooked and then stir-<br />

fried with garlic and olive oil. In the literature,<br />

only two references to the use of R. alba as<br />

food were found. First, young leaves of R. alba<br />

were used as vegetable in Greece (Heldreich<br />

1862) and, second, as salad by Greek farmers<br />

of the surroundings of Larnaca in Cyprus<br />

(Arnold Apostolides 1985). Interestingly, both<br />

records are from regions of the Eastern<br />

Mediterranean, which were, in historic times,<br />

part of the Greek and Byzantine empires, as the<br />

Graecanic area in Southern Italy. For some<br />

plants from Greece (GR) and Gallicianb (I),<br />

cognates were detected, which suggests that<br />

they have been used as vegetables since pre-<br />

Roman times: "tsochos" (GR) and "zuccho" (I)<br />

for Sonchus asper L. & S. oleraceus L., or "an-<br />

drakla" (GR) and "andrficla" (I) for Portulaca<br />

oleracea L. (see Table 2 and Nebel and Hein-<br />

rich n.d.).<br />

ARE WILD GATHERED AND CULTIVATED<br />

SPECIES THE SAME?<br />

In the field sites of this study, wild gathered<br />

greens are conceptualized as a distinct group of<br />

vegetables forming a category of their own re-<br />

garding local taxonomic classifications (Hein-<br />

rich et al. 2005). For culinary purposes, how-<br />

ever, the most common recipes use gathered<br />

species in an identical way to the cultivated<br />

ones. Often these two groups are combined in<br />

the same dish. The 11 most important plant<br />

families within the number of wild gathered<br />

food species comprise eight of the nine most<br />

important plant families regarding the number<br />

of species with a history of domestication in<br />

Europe (Table 1).<br />

However, wild gathered greens differ from<br />

cultivated vegetables regarding their chemical<br />

composition and nutritional value (Zeghichi et<br />

al. 2003). Apart from the selection for higher<br />

yields and ecological adaptation, cultivated


2006] LEONTI, ET AL.: WILD EUROPEAN FOOD PLANTS 137<br />

TABLE 2. WILD GATHERED AND SEMI-CULTIVATED PLANT SPECIES DOCUMENTED IN ALL THREE COUN-<br />

TRIES DURING THE CONSORTIUM'S FIELD WORK.<br />

Family<br />

Vernacular names<br />

Greek Italy Spain<br />

C~Crete G~Gallicianb A--Albacete<br />

Species E--Epiros CA--Castehnezzano CU--Cuenca<br />

Apiaceae Foeniculum vulgare ssp. Agriom~athos c M~saro ~<br />

piperitum (Ucria) fenucchiE salvaccE cA<br />

Cout.<br />

Asteraceae Chondrilla juncea L. ** Grospart6 G<br />

Boraginaceae<br />

Cichorium intybus L. RadNi c, G: **, cicoirE cA<br />

Rodikio c<br />

Crepis vesicaria L. Pikrosirfda c MarogliU A<br />

Hypochoeris radicata L. Pl~itsa c Costardeddhe G<br />

Lactuca serriola L. Agrio m~xulo c Glossa to sciddhio ~,<br />

seulo a gline e lactucastrE cA<br />

Scolymus hispanicus L. Asc61impros c Sculfmbri ~<br />

Sonchus asper L. Tsochos Zuccho a<br />

Sonchus oleraceus L. Tsochos Zuccho a, sivonE cA<br />

Borago officinalis L.<br />

Caryophyllaceae Silene vulgaris<br />

(Moench) Garke<br />

Chenopodiaceae Beta vulgaris ssp.<br />

maritima (L.) Arcang.<br />

Ericaceae Arbutus unedo L.<br />

Liliaceae Allium ampeloprasum L.<br />

Moraceae Ficus carica L.<br />

Papaveraceae Papaver rhoeas L.<br />

Portulacaceae<br />

Rosaceae<br />

Portulaca oleracea L.<br />

Crataegus monogyna<br />

Jacq.<br />

** plant used, but no vernacular name documented<br />

Burfinza Gabbufna G,<br />

vurrascinE ca,<br />

sucamelE cA<br />

Papflia Cavur~ci 6<br />

** JetE eA<br />

Kumari~i<br />

Prasfiki c<br />

Agriosuki~i<br />

Kutsumida c,<br />

Kontotsipa E<br />

Paparouna<br />

Glustrfda c,<br />

Andrakla E<br />

Trikokki~i<br />

species and races are selected for having a more<br />

palatable and "sweeter" taste, and they contain<br />

less fiber and secondary compounds (Johns<br />

1990). Wild gathered greens and fruits are more<br />

fibrous and contain higher concentrations and a<br />

greater diversity of secondary compounds.<br />

These secondary compounds are chemicals<br />

GrumE cA<br />

AgliE ardiddE cA<br />

Sico ~, fiche cA<br />

Paparfna ~, paparinE cA,<br />

scattEbottE cA<br />

Andr~icla G,<br />

PerchiazzE cA<br />

CeraseddE cA<br />

Hinojo<br />

Lizones A, talleras A,<br />

achicorias TM,<br />

chicorias TM<br />

Chicorias,<br />

achicorias<br />

Camarrojas<br />

Collejicas del prao A,<br />

hociquillos TM,<br />

morrillos TM,<br />

morrilla TM<br />

Cardenchilla<br />

Cardillos, cardillo<br />

Cerrajilla, crujiera<br />

Cerrajas A, forrajas A,<br />

borrajas A<br />

Cerrajilla TM,<br />

crujiera TM<br />

Borrajas<br />

Collejas<br />

Acelgas de campo<br />

Madrofios<br />

Ajoporros, ajos<br />

porros<br />

Higuera<br />

Babaoles dulces<br />

Verdolaga A,<br />

Verdulaga TM,<br />

emporretos TM<br />

Majoletas A,<br />

Majuelas TM<br />

with a wide range of potentially physiological<br />

and pharmacological interactions including<br />

toxic, antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory, anti-<br />

oxidant, anti-atherosclerotic, astringent, hypo-<br />

glycemic, appetizing, diuretic, stomachic,<br />

carminative, laxative, aphrodisiac, and more<br />

properties. Rivera et al. (2005) report on 145


138 ECONOMIC BOTANY [VOL. 60<br />

wild gathered food species from Alcaraz, Se-<br />

gura, and Serrania de Cuenca in Southern<br />

Spain. Of these 145 species, 81 are also used<br />

medicinally and 61 of those are administered<br />

orally using the same plant part used in the culi-<br />

nary preparations. Hence, the proportion of me-<br />

dicinal plants among gathered food species was<br />

found to be approximately twice as high as<br />

compared to cultivated food species. The phar-<br />

macological properties of food plants are<br />

widely recognized in many cultures and phar-<br />

macologically active phytochemicals may de-<br />

liberately be included in the diet (Johns 1990).<br />

These medicinal food species fit into the mod-<br />

em concept of a nutraceutical or functional<br />

food (see also the EU-project "Local Food-<br />

Nutraceuticals"; Heinrich et al. 2005; The<br />

Local Food-Nutraceutical Consortium 2005).<br />

The medicinal character of wild weedy greens<br />

has been described before (Etkin and Ross<br />

1983; Forbes 1976; Guarrera 2003; Pieroni et<br />

al. 2002). Forbes (1976) writes that people<br />

often claim that eating horta aids digestion and<br />

cleanses the blood as well as the rest of the<br />

body. In Crete, artichoke leaves and stalks are<br />

not only esteemed for their delicious taste but<br />

are also said to lower blood sugar levels and<br />

considered as a therapy to control diabetes type<br />

II. The corms of the tassel hyacinth (Muscari<br />

comosum (L.) Mill., syn. Leopoldia comosa<br />

(L.) Parl.) are used as an aphrodisiac. Amaran-<br />

thus spp. are used as a sedative and are said to<br />

alleviate inflamed joints. The inhabitants of the<br />

Graecanic area often ascribe a specific taste to<br />

singular plant species, particularly to ta chbrta<br />

species. Bitterness is associated with health and<br />

in Gallician6 the bitter tasting Lactuca viminea<br />

(L.) J. Presl. & C. Presl. or Reseda alba L. are<br />

considered to be healthy by being "good for the<br />

liver" and having blood-cleansing properties<br />

(Nebel et al. n.d.). Furthermore, Heldreich<br />

(1862) reports that the Greeks considered many<br />

Asteraceae species to be healthy because of<br />

their bitterness.<br />

It can be argued that the safety of these wild<br />

gathered greens has been evaluated empirically<br />

over the millennia by cultures and people.<br />

Nonetheless this ethnobotanical survey revealed<br />

some toxic species. We found that in Crete as<br />

well as in Catalonia (Bonet and Vall~s 2002),<br />

bracken fern Pteridium aquilinum (L.) Kuhn is<br />

used as a vegetable. This plant contains the car-<br />

cinogenic glycoside ptaquiloside (Frohne and<br />

Jensen 1998) and should be relished with pru-<br />

dence. The very palatable corms from Meren-<br />

dera montana Lange are occasionally used as a<br />

snack in Spain and were in demand as a famine<br />

food during the Spanish Civil War. The genus<br />

as well as the species is known to contain<br />

highly cytotoxic colchicine alkaloids (G6mez et<br />

al. 2003; Husek et al. 1989). The Boraginaceae<br />

Symphytum bulbosum Schimp. and Lithosper-<br />

mum arvense L. as well as the members of the<br />

genus Echium that are used as vegetables are<br />

likely to contain the hepatotoxic pyrrolizidine<br />

alkaloids (Frohne and Jensen 1998) and should<br />

be consumed in minor quantities. Except for M.<br />

montana, the chronic nature of these toxic ef-<br />

fects seems to be responsible for the local per-<br />

ception that the species is safe.<br />

When looking at the comparative importance<br />

of wild gathered versus cultivated food plants,<br />

another interesting pattern emerges. The impor-<br />

tance of plant families as a source for wild<br />

gathered food parallels their importance in agri-<br />

culture with the exception of the Poaceae and<br />

the Asteraceae (Table 1). According to Holm<br />

(1978), the Poaceae and the Asteraceae are the<br />

main source of noxious weeds and together ac-<br />

count for 38% of the world's worst weeds.<br />

Stepp and Moerman (2001) and Stepp (2004)<br />

have gathered evidence that suggests that weeds<br />

contain more bioactive secondary compounds<br />

when compared to a random selection of flora.<br />

While they include the world's most important<br />

crops, the Poaceae are one of the most under-<br />

represented plant families in terms of the num-<br />

ber of species they contribute to traditional<br />

pharmacopoeias (Leonti et al. 2003; Moerman<br />

1994; Stepp and Moerman 2001). Various rea-<br />

sons for this low appreciation with respect to<br />

medicinal uses like conspicuousness, grow-<br />

back strategy and low phytochemical diversity<br />

and content have been discussed (Stepp and<br />

Moerman 2001). The families that have very<br />

few taxa selected for cultivation are the Boragi-<br />

naceae, Polygonaceae, Scrophulariaceae, and,<br />

most importantly, with respect to their huge<br />

contribution to wild gathered greens, the Aster-<br />

aceae. The chemically very diversified Aster-<br />

aceae are the main source of medicinal plant<br />

species used by traditional societies in a variety<br />

of applications in the northern hemisphere<br />

(Leonti et al. 2003; Moerman et al. 1999; Stepp<br />

and Moerman 2001).<br />

Johns (1990) hypothesizes that once such sec-


2006] LEONTI, ET AL.: WILD EUROPEAN FOOD PLANTS 139<br />

ondary compounds may have served a prophy-<br />

lactic role in controlling the increased loads of<br />

parasites, infectious diseases, and ailments the<br />

Neolithic life style brought along. Furthermore,<br />

he argues that through time, plant secondary<br />

compounds became part of the normal digestive<br />

ecology of healthy individuals and populations<br />

and essential health promoting constituents in a<br />

balanced nutrition (Johns 1990). Wild gathered<br />

weedy greens and fruits may, therefore, not only<br />

be an emergency source of food in times of<br />

famine (as a source for additional carbohy-<br />

drates, proteins, vitamins, PUFAs, and miner-<br />

als), but they also compensate for the lack of<br />

pharmacologically active substances, which cul-<br />

tivated species lost during domestication. Weeds<br />

used as food might represent not only the miss-<br />

ing link between a presumably well-balanced<br />

Paleolithic diet (Cordain et al. 2005) and the rel-<br />

atively abruptly changing dietary pattems during<br />

the early Neolithic phase, but also the link be-<br />

tween the agriculturalists' diet and the one of the<br />

industrialized, post modem world.<br />

It is now well established that medicine may<br />

be food and food may be medicine (Etkin<br />

1996; Moerman 1994; Rivera et al. 2005).<br />

People who traditionally gather wild greens<br />

know about additional health beneficial proper-<br />

ties of wild gathered greens. Therefore, they<br />

can deliberately choose between cultivated and<br />

non-cultivated species available to them and<br />

seek desired pharmacological effects consum-<br />

ing traditional dishes including wild gathered<br />

greens.<br />

CONCLUSIONS<br />

With the onset of the Neolithic era, a new di-<br />

mension of human-plant relationship devel-<br />

oped. Ecological niches created by agricultural<br />

activity allowed genetically predisposed species<br />

to thrive and develop as weeds in close human<br />

vicinity. During the expansion of the Neolithic<br />

economy, the seeds of weeds were transported<br />

and distributed together with the crop seeds and<br />

thereby invaded new territory where the weedy<br />

community could affiliate and incorporate new<br />

species.<br />

Based on the present discussion, we suggest<br />

that the transition from the late Paleolithic and<br />

Mesolithic toward the Neolithic economy was<br />

accompanied by a diversification and increase<br />

in the use of weeds as vegetables in the Near<br />

East, the Mediterranean basin, and temperate<br />

Europe, remnants of which can still be found in<br />

some local and traditional knowledge systems.<br />

While, as a result of cereal cultivation, the ex-<br />

ploitation of starchy resources from trees de-<br />

clined and continued to play a role only as<br />

emergency foods, the increasing culinary use of<br />

wild gathered weedy greens also reflects agri-<br />

culturalists' dietary needs regarding micro-<br />

nutrients and plant secondary compounds. Es-<br />

pecially the wild gathered Asteraceaen food<br />

species seem to form a type of proto-<br />

nutraceuticals, which together with the other<br />

wild gathered species account for a significant<br />

input of biologically active secondary com-<br />

pounds in the diet. A traditional lunch observed<br />

by Nebel et al. (n.d.) in which, for example,<br />

pasta (Triticum durum Desf., Poaceae) was<br />

served as a first course and wild gathered<br />

greens (mixed Asterceae and other plant fami-<br />

lies) as a second course, or the combination of<br />

bread with ta chbrta exemplifies the dualism of<br />

food as medicine. Plants from the Poaceae fam-<br />

ily (energy) are consumed together with Aster-<br />

aceae (nutrients and medicine).<br />

Further, we suggest that, as a consequence,<br />

this intimate human-plant relationship, which is<br />

represented by the increasing use of weeds as a<br />

food source, promoted the development of the<br />

Neolithic pharmacopoeias. Changing cultural<br />

and environmental factors during the Neolithic<br />

economy--i.e., changes in the staple diet, the<br />

increase in the prevalence and variety of dis-<br />

eases, the higher fertility rate, and the more<br />

sedentary life-style--required new pharmaco-<br />

logical regimes (Brown 1985; Logan and Dixon<br />

1994). The incorporation of weedy and spicy<br />

species, rich in bioactive secondary com-<br />

pounds, now thriving fight in front of the<br />

doorsteps, led to an expansion of the pharma-<br />

copoeias. This scenario is in accordance with<br />

Brown's observation (1985) that agricultural<br />

people generally recognize and rely on a greater<br />

variety of wild plants than do hunter-gatherers.<br />

Today, we rely on a narrow range of foods<br />

(Diamond 2002; Moerman 1994), which addi-<br />

tionally was selected for a narrower and lower<br />

spectrum of phytochemicals. Useful biochemi-<br />

cals like vitamins, flavonoids, omega-3 fatty<br />

acids, PUFAs, and minerals may fall short in<br />

our Westemized urban culinary scheme. There-<br />

fore, commercialized vitamins and nutraceuti-<br />

cals have been advertised to provide modern<br />

humans with sufficient beneficial cofactors.


140 ECONOMIC BOTANY [VOL. 60<br />

The culinary use of the vast array of wild<br />

gathered vegetables and fruits observed in this<br />

and previous studies is part of the (Mediter-<br />

ranean) agriculturalists' traditional knowledge<br />

about a balanced healthy diet and has become a<br />

more and more neglected resource. Through<br />

comparative analysis, we have identified a num-<br />

ber of species that belong to a core group of<br />

wild gathered vegetables with an inter-cultural<br />

acceptance. Such species might contribute to a<br />

more diverse assortment of vegetables in city<br />

markets, attract consumers' attention, and<br />

thereby could help to cure non-adaptive food<br />

habits at its very root.<br />

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS<br />

The input of all members of the consortium<br />

"Local Food-Nutraceuticals" is gratefully ac-<br />

knowledged. We specifically would like to<br />

thank Zacharias Kyproitakis (Heraklion) for<br />

contributing some specific ethnobotanical data<br />

from Greece and Andrea Pieroni (Bradford) for<br />

contributions at an early stage of this project. A<br />

contract with the European Commission under<br />

KA1 'Food, Nutrition and Health' (FP5) made<br />

this research possible (QLRT-2001-00173;<br />

2002-2004).<br />

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