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Polly Vernon – wax junkie | The Times<br />
Polly Vernon – wax junkie<br />
Polly Vernon Mark Harrison<br />
Polly Vernon<br />
April 30 2011 11:13AM<br />
‘I don’t dress for men, I don’t play dumb for men, so<br />
why do I depilate for men?’<br />
http://www.thetimes.co.uk/tto/magazine/article2998891.ece<br />
03/05/2011 21:29<br />
Since it opened, in August 2009, the <strong>Ministry</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>Waxing</strong> on South Molton Street in<br />
Central London has become a destination for fashionable women in need <strong>of</strong> a depilatory<br />
procedure or three. The small salon with its subterranean warren <strong>of</strong> sterilised candlescented<br />
wax caves and legion <strong>of</strong> upbeat, white-coated, deft-handed staff is a hotspot, as<br />
routinely invoked as the It boutiques and destination brunch venues that surround it.<br />
It gets name-checked in Vogue. If you get your hair dip-dyed at Charles Worthington,<br />
your eggs poached at the Wolseley, and your Martinis mixed at the American Bar <strong>of</strong> the<br />
Savoy, it’s a fair guess that you also get your body hair removed at the <strong>Ministry</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>Waxing</strong>.<br />
I’m booked in for what the MoW calls a Triple XXX, and what the rest <strong>of</strong> us know as a<br />
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03/05/2011 21:29<br />
Brazilian bikini wax (the one where almost everything but a small strip is removed; MoW<br />
has coded it Triple XXX so that women can book one from their desks without terrifying<br />
their male co-workers). It costs 40 quid and will take about 25 minutes. I’ve been getting<br />
Brazilians for 14 years, since a journalistic assignment won me an early visit to Otylia<br />
Roberts, the woman credited with bringing the extreme wax to the UK in the first place.<br />
The Brazilian holds no fear or embarrassment for me any more: I strip <strong>of</strong>f completely; I<br />
adopt the porny positions that allow the waxer the best possible access; I barely flinch in<br />
pain (my follicles and nerve endings have adjusted over time) and certainly not in the<br />
shame <strong>of</strong> close-up scrutiny <strong>of</strong> my body. Brazilian waxes are no big shakes to me.<br />
What is intriguing, however, is the other hair-removal procedure I’ve signed up for today:<br />
the nostril wax. It’s a relatively new addition to the modern woman’s repertoire <strong>of</strong> hair<br />
removal.<br />
I am a devoted depilator. I have spent the past 27 years (!) <strong>of</strong> my life engaged in some<br />
kind <strong>of</strong> hair-removal process: shaving, epilating, tweezing and waxing. My pursuit <strong>of</strong><br />
hairlessness has consumed hours, days and weeks <strong>of</strong> my time and has cost me tens <strong>of</strong><br />
thousands <strong>of</strong> pounds. Those costs are spiralling as I get older and hairier and as new hairremoval<br />
possibilities enter the market.<br />
Depilation is practically a hobby for me. The nostril wax, therefore, is now part <strong>of</strong> my<br />
routine. Jasmine rolls a globule <strong>of</strong> hot wax around the tip <strong>of</strong> an orange stick and pops it up<br />
my left nostril, where I feel it ooze and settle, the wax bonding with the hairs inside my<br />
nose. I tense in thrilled anticipation <strong>of</strong> the imminent yanking and then… Jasmine yanks.<br />
Where are you currently in your cycle <strong>of</strong> hair removal? What’s freshly done, borderline<br />
not-done-enough, as wild and overgrown and luxuriant as a spring meadow? What’s OK<br />
if you don’t look too closely, fine if you’re out <strong>of</strong> direct sunlight, get-away-able-with<br />
because your body is under wraps? What’s acceptable in the confines <strong>of</strong> a long-term<br />
relationship, but absolutely not if you’re still in the early stages?<br />
Me? Well: you know about my nostrils and my bikini line already. My eyebrows, top lip<br />
and suspicions <strong>of</strong> sideburns (or what one friend refers to as “lady burns”) are OK; it is<br />
eight days since their last extensive threading, so they’re not optimal in terms <strong>of</strong><br />
hairlessness, but nor are they desperately in need <strong>of</strong> treatment. I tend to go a fortnight<br />
between facial threadings. I’ve been tweezing the strays with my light pink slant-edge<br />
Tweezerman razors since the day before yesterday. The light mornings make conditions in<br />
my bathroom completely ideal for the locating and removing <strong>of</strong> fine-hair sproutage.<br />
My armpits are troubling. I shave them every morning, but they have nooks and crannies I<br />
can’t ever properly get at. I shave them while studying them in the mirror, stretching the<br />
skin this way and that, <strong>of</strong>ten nicking them with the razor in the process.<br />
My shins are dreadful, as you can see from these pictures. Under normal circs, I would<br />
never have allowed them to get into this condition. I would razor the entire expanse <strong>of</strong><br />
them with a Gillette Mach3 every morning and again in the evening if I’m going out and<br />
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03/05/2011 21:29<br />
want to feel especially smooth. I have to use a men’s reusable razor on them; women’s<br />
razors aren’t even nearly up to the job, what with their highly cloggable safety-bar systems<br />
(clearly, women can’t be trusted with an inch and a half <strong>of</strong> naked steel blade), and I object<br />
to the Barbie-fied pinkness <strong>of</strong> their branding. I am not 3. If I were, I presumably wouldn’t<br />
be in the target market for razors anyway. As for disposable razors, I might as well tickle<br />
the skin on my calves with snowflakes, for all the depilating good they do.<br />
But, in the interests <strong>of</strong> researching this article, I’ve left my legs alone for a fortnight, which<br />
has been difficult. I’ve felt itchy, grubby, defeminised, ugly and embarrassed. I’ve raged<br />
against my editor for asking me to do it.<br />
I’m glad she said I could focus on growing out the leg hairs, however, because there are<br />
other bits; bits that I can’t quite bear to admit to depilating. I pluck stray hairs from my<br />
(whisper it) chin, my (yikes!) nipples and my lower stomach almost unconsciously,<br />
because I am kind <strong>of</strong> horrified by the fact <strong>of</strong> them. How am I hairy there? What does it<br />
mean about me? About my age and how attractive I am and my fundamental femaleness?<br />
I know I shouldn’t feel like this. I know I should be at peace with my body hair, every last<br />
strand <strong>of</strong> it. I believe that the politics <strong>of</strong> hair removal are as tightly interwoven with the<br />
feminist cause as reproductive rights, wolf-whistling scaffolders, curious gender-related<br />
discrepancies in pay, and so on and so forth. I know that current feminist thinking on<br />
depilation notes that, as women have progressed up through society’s ranks, as we’ve<br />
become increasingly powerful and significant in every respect, so the pressure on us to<br />
remove more and more body hair has increased, a stealth tax perhaps on our status, a<br />
surreptitious way to keep us in check. I know all this and I think it’s probably true. And<br />
yet instinctively, viscerally, I hate my body hair. And I want it gone.<br />
In short: I have an intense, complicated and costly relationship with my body hair. But<br />
then who doesn’t?<br />
An estimated 90 per cent <strong>of</strong> women in Britain remove at least some <strong>of</strong> their body hair. The<br />
UK depilation industry is worth £280 million or thereabouts, and it seems to be<br />
recession-pro<strong>of</strong>. The market in home depilation – shaving, epilating with ferocious<br />
whirly-bladed tools you can buy at Boots from about £60 a pop, DIY waxing, and the<br />
newer, somewhat terrifying territory <strong>of</strong> home IPL and laser treatments – grew by 3 per<br />
cent in 2009 to reach £145 million. The salons seem to be ticking over just fine in the face<br />
<strong>of</strong> austerity.<br />
The <strong>Ministry</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>Waxing</strong>, with outlets in Singapore, New York, Kuala Lumpur, Jakarta,<br />
Manila and Bangkok as well as London, opened a second shop in Covent Garden last year,<br />
and both it and the South Molton Street location are oversubscribed. You have to book in<br />
advance for a Triple XXX and Jasmine tells me that she is as busy as she has ever been.<br />
“You can do a manicure at home,” she points out. “But you can’t do your own Brazilian.”<br />
Hair removal has been building into big business for nearly a century. According to a 1982<br />
article by Christine Hope in The Journal <strong>of</strong> American Culture, the female compulsion to<br />
depilate was kick-started by cosmetic companies keen to sell razor blades to an entirely<br />
http://www.thetimes.co.uk/tto/magazine/article2998891.ece<br />
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Polly Vernon – wax junkie | The Times<br />
untapped market <strong>of</strong> women.<br />
http://www.thetimes.co.uk/tto/magazine/article2998891.ece<br />
03/05/2011 21:29<br />
The campaign began in earnest in 1915 when Harper’s Bazaar ran an advert featuring an<br />
image <strong>of</strong> a young woman in a sleeveless dress, whose arms were arched above her head,<br />
revealing hairless armpits. The strapline ran: “Summer dress and modern dancing<br />
combine to make necessary the removal <strong>of</strong> objectionable hair.”<br />
Hygiene was invoked as a secondary reason for getting shot <strong>of</strong> underarm hair, although<br />
campaigns relied mainly on the ancient impetus to be cool. “The woman <strong>of</strong> fashion says<br />
the underarm must be as smooth as the face,” ran another ad. By 1922, women both in the<br />
US and in the UK seemed to have accepted the idea that they should shave their armpits.<br />
Advertising campaigns no longer focused on selling the idea <strong>of</strong> hairlessness itself, but had<br />
shifted to distinguishing between the merits <strong>of</strong> different processes and products.<br />
Convincing women to shave their legs took longer; but by the Forties, when rationing<br />
meant that skirts were shorter and stockings sheerer (if they existed at all), and Betty<br />
Grable’s hair-free legs had become a saucy visual shorthand for patriotism, the idea <strong>of</strong><br />
depilating the lower half <strong>of</strong> the body began to resonate. Bikini waxing didn’t become<br />
popular until the late Eighties, as anyone who has ever enjoyed the hairily illustrated<br />
images <strong>of</strong> the Seventies classic The Joy <strong>of</strong> Sex will testify. Extreme bikini waxing gained<br />
currency in the mid-Nineties when New York’s J. Sisters started treating quote-happy<br />
celebrities, after which Roberts brought it to London.<br />
And now, yes, it seems that we are all depilating. When I ask the female faction on Twitter<br />
how they feel about their body hair, several hundred rush to tweet back about their<br />
depilatory habits. While they vary dramatically, every last one <strong>of</strong> them is at least doing<br />
something.<br />
But <strong>of</strong> course we are. We’re surrounded by a hairless female aesthetic. The bodies <strong>of</strong> the<br />
celebrity women and anonymous models on whom notions <strong>of</strong> prettiness are founded are<br />
waxed and tweezered, IPL-treated and photoshopped into perfectly depilated visions <strong>of</strong><br />
egg-smooth gorgeousness. Pornography is popularly assumed to hold increasing sway over<br />
what we wax and how <strong>of</strong>ten. As porn gets more available through the internet, so the<br />
average woman’s perceived obligation to wax further and higher appears to increase.<br />
(Although it should also be pointed out that Ancient Greek statues show adult women to<br />
be pubic hair-free. Maybe this aesthetic ideal isn’t so porno-derivative after all.)<br />
Trends in how we remove hair ebb and flow. The latest diktats issued by Hollywood<br />
stylists suggest somewhat terrifyingly that shaving excess hair from the faces <strong>of</strong> female<br />
celebrities is an increasingly common practice. “Shaving rids the face <strong>of</strong> that fine fuzz that<br />
laser hair removal can’t pick up,” says Kate Somerville, a Los Angeles facialist <strong>of</strong> some<br />
standing. “It doesn’t grow back thicker or darker. That’s an old wives’ tale.”<br />
Any time a celebrity woman dares to be seen in public displaying so much as a suspicion<br />
<strong>of</strong> body bristle, all hell breaks out. Body hair makes headlines, causes ructions. The latest<br />
depilatory refusenik is Irina Shayk, supermodel, girlfriend <strong>of</strong> Cristiano Ronaldo and<br />
Swimwear Illustrated cover girl. In late February, Shayk was snapped by paparazzi on her<br />
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03/05/2011 21:29<br />
way from a TV studio in Los Angeles. She was wearing a red miniskirt from beneath which<br />
stretched acres <strong>of</strong> perfectly toned, perfectly tanned leg. But – hang on! What was that,<br />
glinting in the sunlight? Could it really have been a fuzzy aura <strong>of</strong> leg hair? Heavens! The<br />
media reacted with alarm at the subtly hairy subverting <strong>of</strong> Shayk’s man-pleasing glamour.<br />
Her leg hair was pronounced “disgusting”, “gross”, “ugly”. “Why on earth did Ronaldo let<br />
her get away with it?” asked outraged bloggers. So there is, unquestionably, cultural<br />
pressure on women to depilate.<br />
Conversely, there’s also a lot <strong>of</strong> cultural pressure on us not to talk about depilating. Rachel<br />
Johnson, sister <strong>of</strong> Boris Johnson, editor <strong>of</strong> The Lady, can testify to our cultural<br />
sensitivities on the issue <strong>of</strong> body-hair removal. Earlier this year, for the March issue <strong>of</strong><br />
Vogue, Johnson wrote an article detailing her experiences <strong>of</strong> a semi-extreme bikini wax.<br />
She was inspired to go from what she described as “Mama Grizzly to porn star in 20<br />
painless minutes” at the <strong>Ministry</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>Waxing</strong> by her daughter, who – Johnson was initially<br />
distressed to discover – had submitted to a Brazilian herself, at the age <strong>of</strong> 15. The piece<br />
caused a furore. Johnson was damned as publicity-seeking, as the (gasp!) “unladylike<br />
editor <strong>of</strong> The Lady” and as a bad mother.<br />
How does she feel about it all now, I ask her, two months on. Does she regret it? “I think<br />
my Vogue piece lit a blue touch paper and the reason was that I put my finger on a<br />
generational difference when it comes to ‘intimate grooming’, for want <strong>of</strong> a better phrase.<br />
No one under the age <strong>of</strong> 40 seems to have pubic hair. Nor do porn stars. This seems<br />
worthy <strong>of</strong> comment and analysis.<br />
“That said, most cultures go for depilation in varying degrees. Look at the Arab cultures,<br />
the orthodox Jews. The Ancient Greeks scraped their bodies with strigils. It’s been going<br />
on since the cave, probably. Two thousand years later, I referenced hair removal in a piece<br />
for Vogue and the fur really flew (pun intended). There was a massive Daily Mail-led<br />
outbreak <strong>of</strong> misogyny, and all the Glendas <strong>of</strong> Fleet Street piled in with a will. On<br />
reflection, I don’t think it was the subject – although an endemic misogynistic attitude<br />
towards women’s bodies was definitely a factor in the hysterical outcry that followed my<br />
modest effort about a bikini wax (I didn’t have the full Brazilian). My crime, I realise, was<br />
to write about my daughter, not the wax, in the context <strong>of</strong> a subject that the self-appointed<br />
guardians <strong>of</strong> Middle England’s moral compass had already decided was revolting and<br />
taboo. I had to be doubly punished.”<br />
Johnson is certainly right on the generational split on bikini waxing. I’m at the top end <strong>of</strong><br />
Generation Brazilian; I am 39, I started Brazilianing for journalistic reasons and I am<br />
slightly unusual as far as my (perhaps less rigorously waxed) peers are concerned. But<br />
women 20 years younger than me get extreme bikini waxes as a matter <strong>of</strong> course, and they<br />
have been getting them since their teens.<br />
My friend Daisy – a successful, self-assured 24-year-old writer – got her first Brazilian<br />
wax when she was 14. Why, I ask. “Because I was having sex,” she replies. What about the<br />
politics <strong>of</strong> it? Doesn’t hair removal seem like an un-feminist thing to do? “It never<br />
occurred to me to think <strong>of</strong> it as political,” she says. She looks puzzled. “Explain. How is it<br />
http://www.thetimes.co.uk/tto/magazine/article2998891.ece<br />
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Polly Vernon – wax junkie | The Times<br />
political?”<br />
http://www.thetimes.co.uk/tto/magazine/article2998891.ece<br />
03/05/2011 21:29<br />
I ask around a little more, and discover that there’s a generational split on not just the<br />
degree to which women are shaving and waxing, but the way they think about it too. The<br />
younger Twitter straw-poll respondents are largely with Daisy: it is sexy and sexual but<br />
certainly not sexist to be a woman and feel the need to wax or shave. It is just what you<br />
do, in the same way that you brush your teeth and shave undercuts into your hip,<br />
bleached hair. They talk in terms <strong>of</strong> feeling “clean and smooth”. I’m reminded <strong>of</strong><br />
something that Jasmine said, about how a Brazilian gives you added swagger, that it’s the<br />
grooming equivalent <strong>of</strong> wearing high heels.<br />
The tweeters in their late thirties and forties are conscious <strong>of</strong> the politics, however. They<br />
apologise for depilating and underplay the extent <strong>of</strong> it. It isn’t until I tweet a confession to<br />
exactly how much time and money I spend on depilation that some <strong>of</strong> them confess to<br />
being slaves to it, as I am. “I spend the same as you in a month and I’m a part-time<br />
primary school teacher from Newcastle,” says @higgum75 (the 75 is a reference to her<br />
year <strong>of</strong> birth).<br />
As a 39-year-old, I instinctively think that there are politics buried within depilation. I<br />
know that my principles are compromised by doing it, by how much time and money I<br />
dedicate to it, and by how wilfully I submit to something that – let’s face it – really hurts.<br />
I know because depilating is the one thing that I do explicitly to please men. I do not dress<br />
for men or modulate my (really quite foul) language for men; I do not underplay my<br />
achievements or curb my tendency to shout the odds over practically anything for men.<br />
But I do shave my legs for men, because I think they’ll like me less if I don’t. I think they’ll<br />
think I’m ugly. Not just my boyfriend (who, to be fair, has never once expressed an<br />
opinion regarding my body hair), but all men. And I know this isn’t great.<br />
Mariella Frostrup agrees: waxing for the boys is not great. “I once heard a woman on LBC<br />
[shows how long ago it was] complaining that her boyfriend made her wax ‘every inch <strong>of</strong><br />
her body’, or he wouldn’t lay a finger on her. Ouch. I’d definitely have opted for celibacy.”<br />
But what <strong>of</strong> men, anyway? Would they all actually, secretly, rather we waxed every inch <strong>of</strong><br />
our bodies? Or are they less troubled by our depilatory habits than I assume they are? The<br />
male faction <strong>of</strong> Twitter respond cautiously – coyly, even – to my straw poll on their hairy<br />
lady likes and dislikes. Piers Morgan and his producer Jonathan Wald each try to make<br />
the other tell me what he thinks is acceptable, and where, but ultimately neither one<br />
reveals anything. Someone else – who, if his Twitter pr<strong>of</strong>ile picture is anything to go by,<br />
seems youngish, in his late twenties – surprises me by telling me that while he can’t stand<br />
hairy legs on a woman, he rather likes hairy armpits. “Sign <strong>of</strong> confidence,” he says. “Or<br />
being German.” A third tells me he’s appalled at my depilatory budget, but still expects<br />
partners to be thoroughly hair-free.<br />
Andy Jones, a 27-year-old journalist who spent several years <strong>of</strong> his life writing a weekly<br />
dating column, has a broad experience <strong>of</strong> female depilation practices. “I’m old enough to<br />
remember just before the Brazilian wax thing happened. My first sexual encounters were<br />
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03/05/2011 21:29<br />
with women who didn’t wax.” Were they not even shaving their legs, I ask. “Shaved legs,<br />
oh yeah, that’s a given. But I expected pubic hair. I got my sex education from schoolyard<br />
chats, text books, the odd jazz mag; I was expecting it. Now, no one does.”<br />
Jones believes that free and available pornography is dictating our expectations <strong>of</strong><br />
women’s bodies. He cites everything from the lip-glossy, breast-augmented, spray-tan<br />
look <strong>of</strong> the stars <strong>of</strong> The Only Way Is Essex (“It’s a porn star aesthetic, no question”) to<br />
overhearing 14-year-old schoolkids explicitly discussing sexual practices on the bus (“That<br />
I find completely shocking”). He says there was definitely a sea change in how women<br />
waxed about a decade ago. “When I was writing the dating column, I’d go on about two or<br />
three dates a week. Most <strong>of</strong> the sexual encounters I had involved no pubic hair.” Would it<br />
bother him now, I wonder, if he were to find himself in bed with a woman who wasn’t<br />
Triple XXX’d into a pristine vision <strong>of</strong> hairlessness?<br />
“It wouldn’t shock me. I’d notice it. But I wouldn’t get up and walk out.” I’m sure you<br />
wouldn’t. “Oh, I’ve got friends who would say – shamefully, but still – ‘I like her, but I<br />
don’t like her downstairs, so I won’t see her again.’ ’’ I am stunned by this. “Guys like<br />
women to look a certain way,” Jones says.<br />
Cynthia Chua, the 39-year-old founder <strong>of</strong> the <strong>Ministry</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>Waxing</strong> empire, has a slightly<br />
different perspective on the subtext. She tells me that she has a full body wax on a regular<br />
basis. “But I don’t do it for a partner. I don’t think anyone does it just for a partner any<br />
more. I do it because I get depressed when I don’t wax. It is half an hour when I look after<br />
myself. That’s what grooming is about.”<br />
Of course, she would say that. Her flourishing business (more international outposts and<br />
a pop-up wax station in Selfridges are coming soon) is built on it. But there is perhaps<br />
genuine merit in what Chua says too. Depilating is about upkeep, maintaining yourself,<br />
tending to yourself; it isn’t just about gussying yourself up for the benefit <strong>of</strong> porn-addled<br />
youngsters.<br />
Will it ever end? Will we ever make peace with our hair, grow it out, let it be? I am already<br />
booked in for my next wax, and while I am unsettled by Jones’s revelations about how<br />
judgmental men have become over women’s pubic hair configurations (how dare they?),<br />
the fact is, I get Triple XXX’d out <strong>of</strong> habit and preference, and because as Jasmine says, it<br />
does gives you a swagger.<br />
Whatever hair removal signifies – culturally, politically, socially – however much it costs<br />
or it hurts, we will continue to depilate. We associate it with doing the bare minimum<br />
now. We associate removing it with feeling cleaner. Feminism has lost that battle, I think.<br />
I am also a bit <strong>of</strong> a wax junkie. At the end <strong>of</strong> my conversation with Chua, I grab the chance<br />
to ask her what, if anything, I should next think about the issue. “Women in the UK do<br />
need some help with the tootsie waxing,” she says. “You get beautiful manicures, but<br />
sometimes I see bushy fingers and knuckles.”<br />
I hang up and look at my hands. I turn them into the light. I twist my fingers round a<br />
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Polly Vernon – wax junkie | The Times<br />
little. Dear God. I think she’s right. And I reach for my tweezers.<br />
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