3680 Cutting Layouts General Directions - PrintSew

English
Cutting
Layouts
®
pattern printed
side down
pattern printed
side up
3680
Thank you for purchasing this Simplicity pattern.
We have made every effort to provide you with a high quality product.
A
A
A,B,C,D&E
A,B,C,&D
A
D
© Copyright 2007—Simplicity Pattern Co., Inc. / Printed in U.S.A. / Simplicity is a registered trademark of Simplicity Pattern Co., Inc.
★
✻
1 / 4
See
SPECIAL
CUTTING
NOTES
POSITION OF PATTERN PIECES MAY VARY SLIGHTLY ACCORDING
TO YOUR PATTERN SIZE
A,B,C,D: PIECES 4 5 11 ARE CUT OF ELASTIC
A COSTUME:
BODICE, UPPER SKIRT
AND HAT
USE PIECES 1 2 3 6 12 13
CUT ONE OF PIECE 12
44" 45" OR 58" 60"
(115CM OR 150CM)
WITH NAP / ALL SIZES
SELVAGE
2
1
SEL.
13
6
12
FOLD
MIDDLE SKIRT, BELT LOWER SKIRT AND
AND HAT BAND PANTIES
USE PIECES 7 9 14
44" 45" OR 58" 60" (115CM OR 150CM)
WITH NAP
ALL SIZES
SELVAGES
✻
DOUBLE THICKNESS
9
B
7
B
E E
7
14
SELVAGES
C
C
E
D
E
DOUBLE THICKNESS
✻
DOUBLE THICKNESS
10
3
8
SELVAGES
6
SELVAGES
USE PIECES 8 10
44" 45" OR 58" 60" (115CM OR 150CM)
WITH NAP
ALL SIZES
SELVAGES
✻
19 pieces given
1
8
3
12
15
18
11
SELVAGES
2
5
1-BODICE FRONT
2-BODICE BACK
3-SLEEVE -A,B
4-ELASTIC GUIDE FOR NECK
5-ELASTIC GUIDE FOR SLEEVE
6-UPPER SKIRT -A,B,C /
MIDDLE SKIRT -D /
LOWER SKIRT -E
7-MIDDLE SKIRT -A /
LOWER SKIRT -B,D
8-LOWER SKIRT -A,C
9-BELT
6
7
4
13 14
LINING
USE PIECES 1 2 6 12 13
CUT ONE OF PIECE 12
44" 45" (115CM)
WITH NAP
ALL SIZES
9
16 17
INTERFACING
USE PIECES 9 12 13 14
22" TO 25" (55CM TO 64CM) FUSIBLE
WITH NAP
ALL SIZES
B COSTUME AND PANTIES
USE PIECES 1 2 3 6 7 10
CUT ONE OF PIECE 2, CUT ONE OF
PIECE 1 UNDERNEATH IN POSITION SHOWN
44" 45" OR 58" 60"
(115CM OR 150CM)
WITH NAP / ALL SIZES
8
10
19
10-PANTIES -A,B,C,D
11-ELASTIC GUIDE FOR
PANTIES LEG -A,B,C,D
12-HAT CROWN -A
13-HAT BRIM -A
14-HAT BAND -A
15-SLEEVE -C,D,E
16-UPPER SKIRT -D,E
17-BLOOMERS -E
18-ELASTIC GUIDE FOR
BLOOMERS LEG -E
19-HEAD SCARF -E
✻
DOUBLE
THICKNESS
U.S. & Canada Toll-Free
1-888-588-2700
The Pattern
SYMBOLS
GRAIN LINE Place on
straight grain of fabric
parallel to selvage
PLACE SOLID LINE on
fold of fabric.
CENTER FRONT OR
BACK of garment.
NOTCHES
DOTS
CUTTING LINE
LENGTHEN OR
SHORTEN LINES
SEAM ALLOWANCE: 5/8" (1.5cm)
unless otherwise stated is included but
not printed on MULTI-SIZE PATTERNS.
Mark your size with colored felt tip pen.
See chart on tissue for how to use MULTI-
SIZE PATTERNS.
10
Web Site
http://www.simplicity.com
General Directions
ADJUST IF NEEDED
Make adjustments before placing
pattern on fabric.
TO LENGTHEN:
Cut pattern
between
lengthen or
shorten lines.
Spread pattern
evenly, the
amount needed
and tape to
paper.
TO SHORTEN:
At lengthen or
shorten lines,
make an even
pleat taking up
amount needed.
Tape in place.
When lengthen or shorten lines are
not given, make adjustments at
lower edge of pattern.
Sewing
• SEW garment following Sewing Directions.
• PIN or machine-baste seams matching notches.
• STITCH 5/8" (1.5 cm) seams unless otherwise stated.
• PRESS seams open unless otherwise indicated clipping when necessary so
seams will lie flat.
• TRIM seams to reduce bulk, as shown below.
Trim enclosed
seams into layers
6
SELVAGE
1
2
FOLD
7
SEL.
6
✻
DOUBLE THICKNESS
SINGLE
THICKNESS
7
Trim corners
12
SELVAGES
6
12 9
6
13
SELVAGES
SELVAGE
13 14
SELVAGE
SELVAGES
3
2
1
SELVAGES
Clip inner
curves
Notch outer
curves
BELT
USE PIECE 9
54" (140CM) VINYL
ALL SIZES
INTERFACING
USE PIECE 9
e
E-mail
info@simplicity.com
Cutting/Marking
BEFORE CUTTING:
PRESS pattern pieces with a warm dry
iron. PRE-SHRINK fabric by pre-washing
washables or steam-pressing nonwashables.
CIRCLE your cutting layout.
PIN pattern to fabric as shown in Cutting
Layouts.
• FOR DOUBLE THICKNESS: Fold
fabric with RIGHT sides together.
• FOR SINGLE THICKNESS: Place
fabric RIGHT side up.
• FOR PILE, SHADED OR ONE WAY
DESIGN FABRICS: Use “with nap”
layouts
★ If layout
shows a piece
extending past
fold, cut out all
pieces except
piece that
extends.
Open out
fabric to single
thickness. Cut
extending
piece on
RIGHT side of
fabric in
position
shown.
22" TO 25" (55CM TO 64CM) FUSIBLE
ALL SIZES
C COSTUME:
BODICE, LOWER SKIRT
AND PANTIES
USE PIECES 1 2 8 10 15
44" 45" OR 58" 60"
(115CM OR 150CM)
WITH NAP
ALL SIZES
AFTER CUTTING:
Transfer markings to WRONG side
of fabric before removing pattern.
Use pin and chalk method or
dressmaker’s tracing paper and
wheel.
To Quick Mark:
• Snip edge of fabric to mark
notches, ends of fold lines and
center lines.
• Pin mark dots.
SPECIAL CUTTING NOTES
✻ Mark small
arrows along both
selvages indicating
direction of nap or
design. Fold fabric
crosswise with
RIGHT sides
together, and cut
along fold (a).
SELVAGE
1
2
FOLD
SEL.
Turn one fabric
layer around so
arrows on both
layers go in the
same direction.
Place RIGHT sides
together (b).
✻
DOUBLE THICKNESS
10
15
SINGLE
THICKNESS
a.
CROSSWISE FOLD
✁
8
b.
SELVAGE
SELVAGE
SELVAGES
SELVAGE
SELVAGES
DOUBLE
THICKNESS
EDGES
✻
EDGES
SELVAGE
9
SELVAGE
SELVAGES
8
SELVAGES
9

English
3680
USE PIECES 6 7
44" 45" OR 58" 60"
(115CM OR 150CM)
WITH NAP
ALL SIZES
2 / 4
UPPER SKIRT AND BELT
USE PIECES 6 9
44" 45" OR 58" 60"
(115CM OR 150CM)
WITH NAP
ALL SIZES
INTERFACING
USE PIECE 9
22" TO 25" (55CM TO 64CM) FUSIBLE
ALL SIZES
D COSTUME:
BODICE AND UPPER SKIRT
USE PIECES 1 2 15 16
44" 45" OR 58" 60" (115CM OR 150CM)
WITH NAP
ALL SIZES
MIDDLE AND LOWER SKIRT
TWO THREAD
OVERLOCK
DOUBLE STITCHED SEAM
THREE THREAD
OVERLOCK
© Copyright 2007—Simplicity Pattern Co., Inc. / Printed in U.S.A. / Simplicity is a registered trademark of Simplicity Pattern Co., Inc.
1
✻
DOUBLE THICKNESS
FRENCH SEAM
SELVAGE
2
FOLD
7
SEL.
✻
DOUBLE THICKNESS
SINGLE
THICKNESS
✻
DOUBLE THICKNESS
6
9
15
6
SELVAGES
6
SELVAGES
Sewing Directions
FABRIC
KEY
Read General Directions on page 1 before you begin.
SIMPLY THE BEST SEAM FINISHES FOR
SHEER FABRICS
Seams can be finished with one of the three methods mentioned
below, choose which one you would like to use.
OVERLOCK/SERGE - Overlock over raw edges of seam, using
an overlock/serger machine.
OR
DOUBLE STITCHED SEAM- stitch seam again 1/8"(3mm) from
first stitching. Trim close to stitching. Press seam to one side.
OR
7
6
SELVAGES
SELVAGE
9
SELVAGE
SELVAGES
16
16
SELVAGES
SELVAGES
LINING AND PANTIES
USE PIECES 1 2 7 10
44" 45" (115CM)
WITH NAP
ALL SIZES
BELT
USE PIECE 9
44" 45" (115CM) WITH NAP
ALL SIZES
INTERFACING
USE PIECE 9
22" TO 25" (55CM TO 64CM)
FUSIBLE
ALL SIZES THICKNESS
E COSTUME:
BODICE
USE PIECES 1 2 15
PIECES 4 5 ARE CUT OF ELASTIC
44" 45" OR 58" 60"
(115CM OR 150CM)
WITH NAP / ALL SIZES
RIGHT SIDE WRONG SIDE INTERFACING LINING
FRENCH SEAM- To make French seam, stitch first seam on
OUTSIDE, a scant 1/4" (6mm) from seam line; trim close to
stitching.
Turn to INSIDE and stitch through seam allowance, encasing first
seam.
✻
DOUBLE THICKNESS
10
SINGLE
1
SEL.
7
SELVAGE
1
FOLD
SELVAGES
15
7
SELVAGES
1
✻
DOUBLE
THICKNESS
9
2
SELVAGE
15
2
SELS.
SELVAGE
SELVAGE
FOLD
9
SELS.
SEL.
NARROW HEM
UPPER SKIRT
USE PIECE 16
44" 45" OR 58" 60"
(115CM OR 150CM)
WITH NAP
ALL SIZES
LOWER SKIRT AND BELT
USE PIECES 6 9
44" 45" OR 58" 60"
(115CM OR 150CM)
WITH NAP
ALL SIZES
HEAD SCARF
AND BLOOMERS
USE PIECES 17 19
PIECE 18 IS CUT OF ELASTIC
44" 45" OR 58" 60"
(115CM OR 150CM)
WITH NAP
ALL SIZES
INTERFACING
USE PIECE 9
✻
22" TO 25" (55CM TO 64CM)
FUSIBLE
ALL SIZES THICKNESS
SELVAGES
Sewing procedures ITALICIZED in Sewing Directions are
defined below:
NARROW HEM - Press under hem allowance.
To form narrow hem, tuck under raw edge to meet crease.
Press.
Stitch hem in place.
COSTUME AND BELT A, B, C, D,
E
1. To form casing on INSIDE, pin single fold bias tape to
sleeves, placing lower edge of tape along casing line. Stitch
close to both long edges of tape.
DOUBLE THICKNESS
✻
DOUBLE THICKNESS
17
19
SINGLE
9
16
16
SELVAGES
SELVAGES
6
SELVAGE
9
6
SELVAGES
SELVAGE
17
FOLD
SELVAGE
SEL.

English
3680
6
8
3
2
10
12
13
5
4
3 / 4
9
7
11
© Copyright 2007—Simplicity Pattern Co., Inc. / Printed in U.S.A. / Simplicity is a registered trademark of Simplicity Pattern Co., Inc.
2. Cut a piece of elastic for each sleeve the length of elastic
guide for sleeve.
Insert elastic through casing using a safety pin. Stitch across
ends of casing, catching in elastic.
3. Stitch underarm seam.
4. NARROW HEM lower edge of sleeves.
5. FOR VIEWS A, D- Pin WRONG side of bodice front and back
overlay to RIGHT side of corresponding lining pieces. Baste
close to raw edges.
CONTINUE AS FOLLOWS FOR VIEWS A, B, C, D, E
6. Stitch bodice front to bodice back at side seams.
7. With RIGHT sides together, pin sleeve to armhole edge of
garment, matching notches and seams. Stitch. Stitch again
1/8” (3mm) from first stitching. Trim seam close to second
stitching. Press seam toward sleeve.
8. NARROW HEM upper edge of bodice.
To form casing, on INSIDE pin 1/2" (1.3cm) wide single fold
bias tape to bodice, placing lower edge of tape along casing
line, turning under and lapping one end at center back, as
shown. Stitch close to both long edges of tape, leaving an
opening on lower edge large enough to insert elastic.
9. Cut a piece of 1/4" (6mm) wide elastic the length of elastic
guide for neck. Insert elastic through casing using a safety
pin. Stitch ends of elastic together securely. Stitch opening
closed.
10. FOR VIEW A- Pin WRONG side of upper skirt to RIGHT side
of corresponding lining pieces. Baste close to raw edges.
11. FOR VIEW D- Pin WRONG side of lower skirt to RIGHT side
of corresponding lining pieces. Baste close to raw edges.
CONTINUE AS FOLLOWS FOR VIEWS A, B, C, D, E
12. Stitch two upper skirt sections together along center front
seam for Views A, B, C. Stitch two upper skirt sections
together along one notched edge for Views D, E.
Stitch two upper skirt back sections together same as for
front.
Stitch upper skirt front to upper skirt back at side seams.
NARROW HEM lower edge of skirt.
13. Stitch two middle skirt sections A, D together along one
notched edge for front.
Stitch two middle skirt sections together along one notched
edge for back same as for front.
Stitch middle skirt front to middle skirt back at side seams.
NARROW HEM lower edge of skirt.
Stitch two lower skirt sections together along center front
seam for Views A, C, E. Stitch two lower skirt sections
together along one notched edge for Views B, D.
Stitch center back seam of lower skirt sections same as for
front. Stitch two lower skirt sections together along one
notched edge for Views B, D.
Stitch lower skirt front to lower skirt back at side seams.
NARROW HEM lower edge of skirt.
14
17
19
22
21
16
15
20
18
14. TRIM VIEW C- On OUTSIDE, pin straight edge of loopy
fringe trim along hem stitching on upper skirt having ends
meet at one side seam. Pin straight edge of trim along hem
stitching on lower skirt having ends meet at one side seam.
Stitch close to both long edges of trim.
CONTINUE AS FOLLOWS FOR VIEWS A, B, C, D, E
15. Pin WRONG side of upper skirt to RIGHT side of middle/
lower skirt matching small dots. Baste.
16. With RIGHT sides together, stitch skirt to bodice at waistline
seam, matching centers, small dots and side seams.
17. To form casing, open out one edge of 7/8" (2.2cm) single fold
bias tape. On INSIDE, pin tape to waistline seam, placing
crease along stitching and turning under ends so that they
meet at one side seam. Stitch along crease. Trim garment
seam allowance even with edge of tape.
18. Press seam and tape toward bodice.To form casing, stitch
remaining long edge of tape to bodice.
19. Cut a piece of elastic to fit waist, plus 1" (2.5cm). Insert
elastic through opening in casing.
Overlap ends and hold with a safety pin.
Try on garment and adjust to fit.
20. Stitch ends of elastic together securely.
Distribute fullness evenly.
BELT
21. Pin fusible interfacing to WRONG side of belt. Cut diagonally
across corners that will be enclosed with seams. Fuse
interfacing in place following manufacturers directions.
22. With RIGHT sides together, pin belt to facing. Stitch seam,
leaving an opening at lower edge to turn.
Turn belt; press. Slip-stitch opening edges together. Apply
eyelets to belt at small dots following manufacturers
directions. Thread ribbon or cord through upper eyelets,
having ends extend evenly. Criss-cross trim and insert
through next set of eyelets. Continue threading trim through
remaining eyelets in same manner, having ends extend
evenly. Tie in a bow. Trim ends evenly.

English
3680
1
3
5
3
4
4 / 4
1 2
7
2
4
© Copyright 2007—Simplicity Pattern Co., Inc. / Printed in U.S.A. / Simplicity is a registered trademark of Simplicity Pattern Co., Inc.
6
PANTIES A, B, C, D
1. With RIGHT sides together, stitch center front and back
seams.
To reinforce seam, stitch over first stitching; clip curves.
2. Stitch crotch seam.
3. To form waistline casing, press 1" (2.5cm) on upper edge to
INSIDE. To form leg casings, press 3/4" (2cm) on lower
edges to INSIDE. Press under 1/4" (6mm) on raw edges.
Stitch close to inner edges of casings, leaving an opening on
each casing to insert elastic.
4. Cut a piece of elastic to fit waist, plus 1" (2.5cm).
Cut two pieces of elastic the measurement of elastic guide for
panties leg.
Insert elastic through casings; adjust to fit.
Stitch ends of elastic together securely.
Stitch opening closed.
HAT A
NOTE: All seams are 3/8" (1cm).
1. Apply fusible interfacing to WRONG side of hat crown lining
following manufacturers directions.
Pin WRONG side of hat crown overlay to RIGHT side of hat
crown lining. Baste close to raw edges.
2. Stitch center back seam of hat crown.
3. Apply fusible interfacing to WRONG side of hat brim lining
following manufacturers directions. Pin WRONG side of hat
brim overlay to RIGHT side of hat brim lining sections. Pin
WRONG side of remaining hat brim overlay to RIGHT side of
remaining hat brim lining forming facing. Baste close to outer
raw edges.
4. Stitch center back seam of hat brim. Stitch center back seam
of brim facing. With RIGHT sides together, pin brim facing to
hat brim matching centers. Stitch outer curved edge. Trim
seam; clip curves.
5. Turn brim RIGHT side out. Press. Machine-baste inner edges
together. Clip to stitching.
6. With RIGHT sides together, pin brim to the crown matching
centers and small dots. Baste. Stitch brim seam. Press seam
toward crown
Make hat band same as for belt, see steps 21 and 22.
7. Pin hat band to hat crown matching centers back. On
INSIDE, tack hat band to hat crown.
1
2
6
3
4
5
BLOOMERS AND HEAD SCARF
E
1. NARROW HEM leg edges.
To form leg casing, on INSIDE, pin bias fold tape to garment,
placing lower edge along casing line.
Stitch close to both edges of casing.
2. Stitch center front and center back seams.
To reinforce seams, stitch again over first stitching. Clip
curves.
3. Press 1" (2.5cm) on upper edge to INSIDE, forming casing.
Press under 1/4" (6mm) on raw edge.
Stitch close to inner edge of casing, leaving an opening to
insert elastic.
4. Cut a piece of elastic to fit waist, plus 1" (2.5cm).
Insert elastic through waistline casing; adjust to fit. Stitch
ends of elastic together securely.
Stitch opening.
Cut a piece of elastic the measurement of elastic guide for
bloomers leg.
Insert elastic through leg casings; adjust to fit.
Stitch across ends of casings, catching in elastic.
5. Stitch crotch seam.
HEAD SCARF
6. NARROW HEM outer edges of scarf. Wrap scarf around
head as shown on front of envelope.