The Coast News, Aug. 17, 2012

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A10 THE COAST NEWS AUG. 17, 2012 I recently interviewed Olivier Bioteau, the Chef and owner of Farmhouse Café in San Diego and his take on cooking was spot on. “I cook with the seasons,” he said. It was such a simple, yet eloquent statement that seems to be catching on among chefs around town. This is not as clearly defined in San Diego where our “seasons” tend to blend together and cold weather is considered anything under 60 degrees, but it’s a guide worth living by nonetheless. It’s the middle of August now and tomatoes are ripening in the garden and screaming to be included on a BLT sandwich. Everyone has their favorite way to make a BLT and mine includes only ripe tomatoes from a garden, apple wood smoked bacon, iceberg lettuce, and toasted spongy white bread.Yeah, I mix it up a bit with the fancy bacon but everything is pure old school and how I grew up with them in Michigan. According to my friends at Suzie’s Farm, they just harvested 1,000 pounds of cucumbers — and not just any cucumbers — but Armenian cukes, which are those funky, striped snake-looking ones. Cucumbers are a crisp and refreshing addition to a summer meal. In fact, a nice summer salad is easy to make with cucumbers, onion, salt, white wine vinegar, sugar and fresh dill. The folks at Suzie’s Farm are also sending red and golden raspberries to farmers markets around town along with their wide variety of fresh produce. My soda consumption tends to pick up in the summer and I get almost daily cravings for something sweet and bubbly to go with my food. I was turned on a few years back to the fact that Coke, Pepsi, Sprite, and Fanta bottled in Mexico are made with cane sugar and not high fructose corn syrup. While I’m not an expert on the nutritional aspects of sugar verses corn syrup, it sure Not good with any other offer Expires August 31, 2012 FOOD&WINE Go-to summer meals and recipes DAVID BOYLAN Lick the Plate El Torito Market for authentic ingredients and Mexican soda Photo by David Boylan does taste a lot better. They seem to be showing up in more mainstream markets but I still prefer to pop into El Torito Market on Coast Highway 101 just north of Leucadia Boulevard. It’s a Mexican market where Mexicans shop…always a good sign. They have a great meat counter and everything you need for an authentic Mexican feast. I recently picked up a 5pound pork shoulder that I cubed, seared, and then braised in my crock-pot for four hours in Mexican Coke and orange juice.The resulting carnitas were spectacular. On the more eclectic side of summer fare, Wade and Kristi Hageman have their fun and tasty lobster corn dogs and their local sweet corn soup. They are also serving local sweet corn with chili butter and roasted jalapenos, all of which are fun twists on traditional seasonal goodness. Just about anything on the menu at Fish 101 in Leucadia is a good choice in the summer. Nothing like fresh, chilled oysters served on a bed of ice with a glass of Albarino or Sauvignon Blanc to go with it. I’ve always this combination to a beach experience. Eating an oyster, with its essence of the sea reminds me of paddling out into the lineup to surf and that first duck dive into the salt water. The paring of a grassy Sauvignon Blanc is the post surf beach experience lying amongst the beach grass. It’s a pure summer pairing that works so well together. Solace at the Moonlight Lounge is another good place to go for oysters and another one you can walk right up to after the beach. While on the topic of fish, I’ve taken to poaching halibut then serving it on a bed of quinoa with a side of your favorite veggie. It’s an easy, quick, light and flavorful summer dish. Simply combine half a cup of white wine, a cup of chicken broth, a shallot, a sprig of thyme or rosemary, and a couple of tablespoons of butter. Season the fish with salt and pepper, bring the other ingredients to a simmer, creating your poaching liquid. Depending on the thickness of your fish, poach it 5 to10 minutes, remove the fish, reduce the poaching liquid, and use that as your sauce. Quinoa has been my go to grain of late as it gives me my starch fix without all the carbs. It makes for a nice bed to present fish or meat on. Here is to summer, warm water, produce from the garden, and seasonal delights from area restaurants. This is the summer to try a peach. Succulent, sweet, juicy peaches are in abundance, thanks in part (according to some news reports) to the drought that has hit many peach-growing parts of the country. Excessive rain, one grower told a TV reporter, makes the peaches watery and less sweet; dry conditions leave them smaller but tastier. What to do with all those peaches? The obvious answer: eat them.“Peaches and cream” is not just a flattering description for a woman’s complexion; it’s a recipe for dessert! Drizzle sliced peaches with a bit of light or heavy cream, or creme fraiche, and you have a heavenly dessert. Pair peaches with luscious Greek yogurt. Make peach shortcake. Peaches, according to “The Oxford Companion to Food,” are an ancient fruit that originated in China and became so popular they traveled the world. Persians claimed them as “Persian apples,” and by the time of the American Revolution, even people in the United States thought they were native to this country. Alan Davidson, editor of the “Oxford Companion,” writes that peaches are the most celebrated fruit in litera- VOTED “BEST BREAKFAST” THE ORIGINAL “WE’VE GOT HUEVOS!”® La Costa 7670 El Camino Real 760-943-8182 Lick the Plate can now be heard on KPRi, 102.1 FM Monday-Friday during the 7pm hour. David Boylan is founder of Artichoke Creative and Artichoke Apparel, an Encinitas based marketing firm and clothing line. Reach him at david@artichokecreative.com or (858) 395-6905. Open Daily 6am-3pm Breakfast & Lunch San Marcos 101 S. Las Posas Rd. 760-471-9655 Visit us online at: www.thebrokenyolkcafe.com Visit us at our other locations: Pacific Beach • Gaslamp • Eastlake 50% OFF Any Entree Buy one entree & 2 beverages at reg. price & get a 2nd entree of equal or lesser value at 50% off. Limit 1 per coupon. 1 coupon per table. No separate checks. Not valid on weekends, holidays or w/any other coupons., specials, offers or w/private groups. 50% OFF Any Entree Buy one entree & 2 beverages at reg. price & get a 2nd entree of equal or lesser value at 50% off. Limit 1 per coupon. 1 coupon per table. No separate checks. Not valid on weekends, holidays or w/any other coupons., specials, offers or w/private groups. Just peachy (and creamy) “An apple is an excellent thing — until you have tried a peach,” said George du Maurier, a 19th-century British cartoonist and novelist. Photo by Marialisa Calta MARIALISA CALTA Kiss the Cook $2 OFF Any Entree With the purchase of one entree and one beverage at regular price. Limit 4 per coupon. 1 coupon per table. No separate checks. Not valid on weekends, holidays or w/any other coupons., specials, offers or w/private groups. $2 OFF Any Entree With the purchase of one entree and one beverage at regular price. Limit 4 per coupon. 1 coupon per table. No separate checks. Not valid on weekends, holidays or w/any other coupons., specials, offers or w/private groups. ture, with the possible exception of the cherry. The Greek philosopher Theophrastus wrote about peaches, as did Pliny, Virgil, Emile Zola, T.S. Eliot and Mark Twain. Zola, apparently, was the originator of the “peaches and cream” description; he likened the complexions of the girls of southern France to that country’s famous Montreuil peaches. Renoir and Picasso loved to paint this sensual fruit. When legendary French chef Auguste Escoffier wanted to honor soprano Nellie Melba, he did it with peaches (and gave us peach Melba to enjoy ever after). One of my favorite ways to enjoy peaches and cream is in homemade ice cream. The recipe below can’t be beat. PEACH ICE CREAM Yield: 6 cups, or 12 servings 3 large egg yolks 3/4 cup sugar 2 cups heavy (whipping) cream 1/2 cup whole milk 5 medium peaches (1 3/4 to 2 pounds) 1 teaspoon almond extract Juice of half a lemon Fresh raspberries or sliced peaches, for serving (optional) In a medium bowl, whisk together egg yolks and 1/2 cup of the sugar. Set aside. Fill a large bowl halfway with ice and cold water. Set out a smaller bowl (with a minimum capacity of 2 quarts) that will fit inside the larger bowl. In the top of a double boiler set over simmering water, heat the cream and milk until bubbles just begin to form on the surface. Do not let the mixture boil. Add about 1/2 cup of the hot cream to the egg yolk mixture and whisk briskly to combine. Stir yolk mixture into the remaining cream in the double boiler and whisk well. Cook over simmering water, stirring constantly with a stainless steel or wooden spoon, until the mixture thickens slightly and coats the back of the spoon, about 5 minutes. Remove from the heat and pour into the smaller bowl that you have set out. Place this bowl into the prepared icewater bath. Stir gently to cool the mixture. When the ice cream base is cooled to room temperature, TURN TO PEACHY ON A15
AUG. 17, 2012 I have a special place in my wine columns for musicians who have made it in the mad world of rock n roll, then turned to what they thought was the more serene, relaxed life of making wine…until they made their first bottle and got way more excited. There is a meaningful bond that links these two dynamics together and the talent and passion that created pop music hits, can be applied to creating great wines. An interview I had a few years ago with the legendary rocker Mick Fleetwood of Fleetwood Mac brought this home, when he embellished on Robert Mondavi’s priceless quote that wine is like “Poetry in a Bottle.” Fleetwood’s take on the subject is that the creativity of the process of making wine and songs are no sure thing and in both, you have to hold your breath and hope the public accepts what you present, while you scream for acceptance. The latest adventure of a pop musician bringing a new and exciting wine to market is Rockabilly Red ($35.) created and owned by Lee Rocker of the ‘80s Rockabilly band, The Stray Cats. The group scorched the charts with famous songs like “Rock This Town” and “Stray Cat Strut,” and despite several break-ups, Rocker still tours to this day. Rocker collaborates on his Rockabilly Red with Kristian Story, the Napa Valley winemaker who creates handcrafted, unfiltered big, bold wines from small lots that express individual character. His location near St. Helena is considered the most intense fruit in the valley. Rockabilly Red is barrel aged 24 months in new French Oak and is a well balanced, muscular 15.3percent alcohol wine, mating up with BBQ Pork, Pizza and of course, Rock n Roll. I caught up with Rocker in Temecula at Ponte Winery’s new Cellar Lounge and he had this to say about his new wine. “It was a blast working with Kristian. You know, it’s a lot like Rock n Roll in a way. The people who make wine and the people who make rock n roll have the passion and the love in what they do and hope that it shows in the end result. The personalties are so similar.” Don Harbour of Golden Crown Productions in Temecula handles marketing and has set up Artists Wine.com to handle orders for Rockabilly Red. Lee Rocker will be headlining a special concert at Wiens Family Cellars in Temecula, Aug. 24 starting at 7 p.m. Tickets are on sale for the event through Golden Crown Productions; with General Admission $45/VIP General Admission $95/VIP Tables for four are $395.Visit goldencrownproductions.co m/buy-tickets, or phone (888) 276-4008. Tolosa Wines Featured at Rossi’s San Marcos Rossi’s Italian Restaurant in San Marcos doesn’t do many special wine dinners, but when they do, I pay attention. Owner Marshall Bryer finds little known but high quality wineries, mainly in the Central Coast area of California and spotlights them, such as his latest find, Tolosa Winery. Tolosa is sustainably farmed in the Edna Valley of San Luis Obispo. The cool ocean breezes and long summers define the vineyards. Rossi’s started out with a lovely Caesar Salad with Tolosa’s ’09 Chardonnay. ($25.) Natural Pear and Apple flavors dominate. The other signature wine from Tolosa is Pinot Noir ($30.) Between the two, they make up 80percent of the estate vineyard. Rossi’s selected Chicken Parmesan as a mate. The ’09 had solid quality and good production, according to winemaker Larry Brooks. He likens each harvest to “dancing with a new partner that you know very little about, so you have to figure out their unique moves to get the best results.” See more about THE COAST NEWS FOOD&WINE Making music and making wine are no ‘sure thing’ FRANK MANGIO Taste of Wine FREE 6” Sub! Get a regular size sub FREE when you purchase any regular, large or extra large sub and a fountain drink at the regular price. Free sub must be of equal or lesser value. Carlsbad 300 Carlsbad Village Dr., Suite 201A Vista South 3231 Business Park Dr. Limit one offer per coupon. Limit one coupon per person per day. Excludes premium subs/sandwiches. Not valid with any other discounts. Tax and substitutions additional. Offer valid at Carlsbad and Vista South only. Expires 9/2/12. Lee Rocker of the 80’s musical groupThe Stray Cats that sold over 10 million albums, has introduced his new wine called Rockabilly Red, a 100 percent 2008 vintage Syrah from Napa Valley. Photo by Golden Crown Productions Tolosa at tolosawinery.com. Wine Bytes San Diego Wine Company on Miramar Rd. is having a Taste of Oregon, Aug. 18 from 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. Cost is $10. Call (858) 586-9463. Temecula Wine Country’s newest improvement is Callaway Vineyard and Winery. See the new upper deck Aug. 18 at their Taste of Summer Seminar, from 10 a.m. to 12:30 p.m. Learn about fermentation and the winemaking process. Call (951) 676-4001 for cost. 3rd Corner in Encinitas brings Andrew Lane Wines of Napa Valley in for a wine dinner Aug. 21 at 6 p.m. $65. Details at (760) 942-2104. Orfila Winery in Escondido presents its annual GRAPESTOMP, Aug. 25 from 4 to 8 p.m. Includes wine tasting, dinner buffet, grape stomping, live music and tractor rides; $85/$68 for club members. Call (800) 868-9463 or visit events@orfila.com. gluten free options available! Frank Mangio is a renowned wine connoisseur certified by Wine Spectator. His library can be viewed at www.tasteofwinetv.com. (Average Google certified 900 visits per day) He is one of the top five wine commentators on the Web. Reach him at mangiompc@aol.com. Stone Flats serves craft-your -own flatbreads, signature salads and house made soups at modest prices in a fresh urban loft atmosphere. In short, it’s how foodies do fast. A11 Marshall Bryer of Rossi’s in San Marcos recently presented Tolosa Wines at his Italian restaurant. Photo by Frank Mangio
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The Coast News, Aug. 17, 2012

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