Apparel Testing Program - CSI Vendor Manual

Section B 

Apparel Testing Program

Administrative Procedures 

To ensure that Charming Shoppes, Inc. quality expectation levels are met, all suppliers must submit 

samples for testing in accordance with the Charming Shoppes, Inc. Testing Program. All garments sold 

to Charming Shoppes, Inc. must be tested regardless of order size. Highlighted below, are the finer 

points of this testing program. 

1. Package Testing 

Charming Shoppes, Inc. testing program is a Package Based program. Submits are required to be 

tested per performance specification. Partial or incomplete testing will not be allowed except for the 

following: 

Development (Allowed when accompanied by supplemental testing / data) 

• Retest 

• Data 

If partial testing is requested outside of the above requirement, the request will be put on hold and the 

vendor will be contacted to correct the test request form. 

All testing must be accompanied by a Charming Shoppes, Inc. test request form and will be tested in 

accordance with the Softlines Testing Package outlined on pg B-6. If Charming Shoppes, Inc. Test 

Request Form is not used the vendor will still be held responsible for all applicable tests outlined in the 

testing package. Failure to use the Charming Shoppes Test Request Form may impede the response 

time from the Charming Shoppes, Inc. Quality Assurance department and could result in additional 

testing required. 

2. Testing Stages 

We require that all test submits and test reports be identified as one of the below stages of the 

production cycle. It must be accurately identified on the test request form and test report. If the stage 

is not accurately identified, the submit will be put on hold and the vendor will be contacted within 24 

hours for this information. 

• Development 

o Partial specification is allowed with supplemental testing or data submitted and 

confirmed by Charming Shoppes, Inc. Quality Assurance department 

o Testing prior to fabric and / or garment production 

• Fabric 

o Full specification testing is required 

o Testing representative of Bulk Fabric Production 

• Garment 

o Full specification testing is required 

o Testing representative of Bulk Garment Production 

o Fabric test report number is required to be listed on test request form 

• Additional Colorway 

o Full specification testing is required only for colorfastness 

o Testing only for Colorfastness properties by specification 

o Original test report number is required to be listed on the test request form 

B-1

2. Testing Stages (continued) 

• Retest 

o Partial specification is allowed with original test listed on the test request form 

o Additional testing done when improvement is requested due to a failure on the fabric 

and / or garment test 

• Data 

o Partial specification is allowed, but results will be reported as data and not considered 

part of the performance specification requirement 

o To be selected with prior permission from Charming Shoppes, Inc. Quality Assurance 

department only. 

- All appropriate tests as outlined in Charming Shoppes, Inc. Test Requirements must be 

conducted prior to shipping. 

- The submission samples must be representative of actual production. 

- It is preferred that those tests which can be done at the fabric stage be conducted prior to 

production cutting so that any failures to meet the standards can be addressed before the fabric 

is cut. However, fabric testing will not alleviate the supplier from submitting a complete 

garment to ensure that all garment components perform compatibly. 

3. Testing Continuity 

We require that all testing to be conducted with one of the nominated lab resources through all 

production phases. Once fabric testing has been conducted with a lab resource for production all 

subsequent testing for garment, additional colorway and retesting phases must be conducted with the 

same resource. Development testing maybe conducted at a separate lab resource as this is considered 

part of pre-production. 

4. Submission Procedures 

• All samples submitted for testing must be representative of what Charming Shoppes, Inc. will 

receive in the stores. Applicable colorfastness tests must be performed on all prints, screen 

prints as well as all colors of base fabrics used in the finished garment. 

• All samples submitted to the laboratory for testing must be accompanied by a Charming 

Shoppes, Inc. Test Request Form. This will ensure that all testing is conducted according to 

Charming Shoppes, Inc. requirements and that the discount that the laboratories provide to all 

Charming Shoppes, Inc. suppliers will be applied. 

• Sample submission quantities outlined below must be followed to ensure that there is sufficient 

sampling for the testing required. If insufficient samples are submitted, the submission will be 

placed on hold and the submitter advised. 

- Fabric Testing: One to one and a half square yards of fabric, or equivalent, in 

each colorway / print / embellishment type. 

- Garment Testing: Two garments in darkest colorway. 

* Note: Additional Colorway Tests for Colorfastness to Multi-Fiber Strip to 3 Home 

Launderings / 1 Dry Clean - Submit half square yard of fabric. 

B-2

4. Submission Procedures (continued) 

• In order to support optimal efficiency in report review and workflow, the following information 

must be included in the test report for all submits. If this information is not included on the test 

request form, testing will be put on hold and the vendor will be contacted within 24 hours for this 

information. 

- Submitter Company Name 

- Submitter Address 

- Submitter Phone 

- Submitter Fax 

- Submitter Contact Name 

- Submitter E-mail Address 

- Vendor Name / # 

- Vendor Style 

- Vendor Contact Name 

- Vendor E-mail Address 

- CSI Direct Source (Y/N) 

- Charming Shoppes Division 

- CSI Performance Specification # 

- Product Description 

- Color(s) 

- Fiber Content 

- Country of Origin 

- Weight 

- Style # (Fabric and/or Garment #’s) / Product ID # 

- Body Number 

5. Care Instructions 

All testing requests with exception of Development must be submitted with Charming Shoppes, Inc. 

approved Standard Care Method. Non-approved care methods will not be accepted. If request is 

submitted with a non-approved care method the request will be put on hold and the vendor will be 

contacted within 24 hours for confirmation of Charming Shoppes, Inc. approved Standard Care 

Method. 

The care method(s) listed in our Care Instruction Guideline are to be used for all testing and labeling 

unless testing reveals a more appropriate method or the need for more specific instructions, see pages 

B-5 to B-8 for details. 

6. Testing Acceptance Criteria 

• All test results will be measured against Charming Shoppes, Inc. Performance Specifications. 

• For styles/colors which are shipped on a replenishment basis, testing is required once per year 

unless changes are made in the source of materials, the material themselves, production facilities 

or any other change which may impact the consistency of the product quality or performance. 

The exception to this is flammability testing reports which must be no older than 6 months from 

delivery. 

B-3

7. Laboratory Reports 

• Laboratory reports will reflect the test results, Charming Shoppes, Inc. standards and whether 

the test results meet these standards. 

• Any submissions which fail to meet all appropriate Charming Shoppes Inc. standards must be 

re-tested on corrected samples unless specified otherwise by the Charming Shoppes Inc. 

Quality Assurance Department. 

• Report Distribution: 

- All test reports rated Failed are forwarded to the Corporate and Lane Bryant Quality 

Assurance departments by the laboratory. 

- Upon request any additional test reports must be forwarded by the vendor to the appropriate 

Quality Assurance department for review prior to shipment. See cover letter for contact 

details. 

8. Testing Turn-Around-Time 

Test reports will be faxed or e-mailed to the supplier no later than five (5) working days after receipt of 

all appropriate samples, and hard copy reports sent via regular mail on the seventh (7 th ) day. 

Depending on the size and nature of the submission, the laboratories can provide rush service at a 

surcharge as set forth by each individual laboratory. 

9. Testing Costs 

• Suppliers are responsible for all testing costs. 

• Charming Shoppes, Inc. vendors will receive our negotiated package testing prices on all work 

submitted to Charming Shoppes’ approved testing laboratories. Prices are as follows and differ 

by region. See page D-3 to D-4. 

10. Durability 

Fabric, trim and garments are required to meet industry durable life expectations. They must be fit 

for purpose and end use and must not exhibit a noticeable change in fit or appearance after normal 

wash and wear. 

This includes but is not limited to: 

- Fusible interfacings and appliqués must not delaminate or deteriorate. 

- Buttonholes, trims and hems must not ravel or fray. 

- Fabric and seams must not twist. 

- Elastic must not deteriorate. 

- Drawstrings must not fray or stain. 

- Buttons and hardware must not discolor or become damaged. 

- Fabric must not objectionably pill. 

- Fabric or Skins must not have a noticeable change of hand. 

B-4

Performance 

Specifications 

CSI-001 























Care Instruction Guideline – Proposed Laundering Methods 

Fiber Content Care Instruction Embellishment / Decoration or 

Lightweight Fabric (below 2.6 oz/sq yd) 

- 100% Cotton 

Machine Wash Cold 

Wash Inside Out 

- Chief Value Cotton With Like Colors 


Blends 

Only Non-Chlorine Bleach When Needed Delicate Cycle 

- Synthetic – 100% or Tumble Dry Low 

With Like Colors 

Blends 

Remove Promptly 

Only Non-Chlorine Bleach When Needed 

Low Iron, If Needed 

Line Dry 

* For Fashion Bug, 

Catherines, Lane Bryant 

Outlet and Loop 18 

ONLY: 

- 100% or Chief Value 

Blends of: Modal 

Rayon, Tencel, Viscose 


Iron Wrong Side Only 

* For Lane Bryant Hand Wash Cold 


ONLY: 

Separately 

Hand Wash Cold 

Only Non-Chlorine Bleach, When Needed Separately 

100% or Chief Value Rinse Thoroughly 

Only Non-Chlorine Bleach, When 

Blends of : 

Line Dry 

Needed 

Linen, Modal, 


Rinse Thoroughly 

Rayon, Silk, 

Do Not Steam 

Line Dry 

Tencel, Viscose 



Do Not Steam 

Broomstick Skirt Machine Wash Cold 

Delicate Cycle 


Only Non-Chlorine Bleach, When Needed 

Twist and Knot to Dry 

Do Not Iron 

100% to 75% Wool Dry Clean Only 

< 75% Wool Wash Inside Out 


Separately 



Dry Flat 

Do Not Iron 

B-5

Performance 






- 100% Cotton 

- Chief Value Cotton 

Blends 

- Synthetic – 100% or 

Blends 

100% or Blends - 

Linen, Modal, 

Rayon, Silk, 

Tencel, Viscose 

Both Shell and Lining 

contain the following: 

- 100% Cotton 


Blends 


Blends 

Both Shell and Lining 

contain the following: 

All Fiber Contents 

(depending upon style) 

Shell and / or Lining: 

100% to 75% Wool 

Shell and / or Lining: 

< 75% Wool 






Tumble Dry Low 




Separately 



Line Dry 


Do Not Steam 








Dry Clean 

Dry Clean Only 



Separately 



Dry Flat 

Do Not Iron 

- OR - 

Dry Clean (depending upon style) 






Needed 

Line Dry 





Separately 


Needed 


Line Dry 



Do Not Steam 






Line Dry 





Separately 



Dry Flat 

Do Not Iron 

- OR - 

Dry Clean (depending upon style) 

B-6

Performance 





- 100% Cotton 


Blends 


Blends 

* For Fashion Bug, 

Catherines & Lane Bryant 

Outlet ONLY: 

100% or Chief Value 

Blends of: 

Modal 

Rayon 

Tencel 

Viscose 

* For Lane Bryant 

ONLY: 

100% or Chief Value 

Blends - 

Linen 

Modal 

Rayon 

Silk 

Tencel 

Viscose 

Remove Hood Before Wash (if applicable) 








Separately 



Line Dry 


Do Not Steam 

Puffer Coats Machine Wash Cold 


Separately 


Tumble Dry Low With Tennis Balls 


PU Coats 

(crinkled or heavily 

embellished) 

Crinkled Coats 

(not PU) 


Spot Clean Only 

Do Not Iron 





Twist and Knot to Dry 

Do Not Iron 







Line Dry 






Separately 



Line Dry 



Do Not Steam 

B-7

Performance 







Under-Wire Bras and 

Under-Wire Garments 


Separately 



Line Dry 

Do Not Iron 

Panties Machine Wash Warm 






> 1% Spandex and / or 

Contains Under-Wire 


Separately 



Line Dry 


Leather and / or Suede Professional Leather Clean 

Washable Leather 

and / or Suede 



Separately 


Line Dry 

Do Not Iron 

Note: Remove “With Like Colors” and add “Separately” if garment has Wash Before Wear tag 

Machine Wash Warm 










Separately 


Needed 


Line Dry 



• The above information is provided to aide in the development of appropriate care instructions for garments. The 

information is for technical guidance only. 

• Actual care labels are to be verified by testing at the approved third party testing laboratories listed in the 

Charming Shoppes, Inc QA Manual. 

• The above methods are to be used unless testing reveals a more appropriate method or the need for a more specific 

care instruction. 

• Actual care instructions and exact wording of care labels must be in compliance with the FTC Care Labeling 

Regulations. 

B-8

Charming Shoppes, Inc. Apparel Performance Specifications 

The attached Performance Specifications set forth Charming Shoppes’ quality expectation level. 

The following points highlight some important facts regarding these specifications: 

• The specifications are structured by end product. 

• Each test listed in the specifications has a test method. All laboratories conducting testing on 

Charming Shoppes’ behalf must adhere to these methods to ensure consistency. 

• The requirements set forth in the specifications reflect Charming Shoppes’ quality expectation 

commitment while recognizing the inherent quality limitations in certain fabric types. Any failure 

to meet these requirements must be brought to the attention of Charming Shoppes’ Quality 

Assurance Department. 

• These specifications apply to testing at the fabric stage and the garment stage. 

• Charming Shoppes does not allow the use of genuine animal fur in any of its brands’ products. 

Specification 

Number 












Specification Category 

Knit Tops, Bottoms and Dresses (excluding washed /treated styles) 

Woven Tops, Bottoms and Dresses (excluding denim & washed /treated styles) 

Denim & Physically / Chemically Treated Knits / Wovens 

Sweaters 

Lined & Constructed Jackets, Bottoms & Dresses (excluding denim & washed /treated) 

Outerwear 

Sleepwear & Intimate Apparel 

Swimwear & Swim Cover-Up 

Leather & Suede Apparel (non-synthetic) 

Hats, Scarves, Wraps & Gloves 

Socks & Hosiery 

B-9

PERFORMANCE SPECIFICATIONS 

Product: Knit Tops, Bottoms, and Dresses 

(excluding physically / chemically treated styles*) 

Performance Specification: #CSI-001 

The below noted tests will be performed when submitting tests using the Charming Shoppes testing 

package: 

TEST NAME FABRIC GARMENT 

TESTS REQUIRED 

Fiber Content 

Fabric Weight 

Dimensional Stability after 3 Launderings / 1 Dry Clean 

Skew / Torque 

General Appearance after 3 Launderings / 1 Dry Clean 

Bursting Strength 

Flammability (Suspect Fabrics Only – all colors) 

Pile Retention (All Pile Fabrics) 

Stretch & Recovery (When Requested) 

Colorfastness to Multi-Fiber Strip after 3 Launderings / 1 Dry Clean 

Colorfastness to Crocking (All Colors – except solid white) 

Colorfastness to Non-Chlorine Bleach 

Colorfastness to Water (Contrast Colors & Prints Only) 

Colorfastness to Perspiration (Lining Fabric Only) 

Zipper Strength 

(Functional Zippers Only – except 

 

nominated suppliers) 

Snap Strength 

Total Lead Content (PU / PVC Fabrics Only – all colors) 

Lead in Surface Coating (PU / PVC Fabrics Only – all colors) 

ADDITIONAL COLORWAY TESTS 




* see Specification CSI-003 for Physically / Chemically Treated Styles 

B-12

EVALUATION 

PHYSICAL TESTS 

Fiber Content 

REQUIREMENT TEST METHOD 

- 100% Fabrics 

No Tolerance 

AATCC 20A 

- Blended Fabrics 

+/- 3% maximum deviation 

Fabric Weight +/- 5% maximum deviation ASTM D 3776 

Dimensional Stability 

- 3 Launderings 

- Jersey / Interlock / Pointelle 

- CVC 

- CVS 

- Rib / Waffle / Pique / Tricot / 

Thermal 

- CVC 

- CVS 

- 6% maximum / + 3% maximum 


- 7 x 6% maximum / + 3% maximum 



AATCC 135 or 150 

- All Others 

- 1 Dry Clean 

AATCC 158 

- CVC / CVS 


- All Others 

+/- 2% maximum 

Skew / Torque +/- 5% maximum AATCC 179 

General Appearance after 3 

Launderings / 1 Dry Clean 

Bursting Strength – Mullen Method * 

Satisfactory Visual 

- Fabric 

50 psi minimum 

ASTM D 3786 

- Garment Seams 

- Lace 


- > 4 oz/sq yd 


- < 4 oz/sq yd 


Flammability 

Pile Retention 

Class 1 (Pass) CFR 1610 

- Face 

Class 4.0 minimum 

ASTM D 4685-89 

- Back 


Stretch & Recovery – Stretch Direction Only 

Body Fabric 

ASTM D 2594 

- % Available Stretch 

- % Recovery 

Record data 

- Original 

85% at 1 hour 

- After Aging 

85% at 1 hour 

5 hours at 200°F 

COLORFASTNESS TESTS – All Colors Must Be Tested 

Colorfastness to Multi-Fiber Strip 

after 3 Launderings / 1 Dry Clean 

Colorfastness to Crocking 

Class 4.0 minimum Visual 

- Non-Pigments 

AATCC 8 / 116 

- Dry 


- Wet 

- Pigment / Sulfur / Tie Dye / 

Dip Dye 


- Dry 


- Wet 


Colorfastness to Non-Chlorine 

Bleach ** 

Class 4.0 minimum Soak Test 

B-13

EVALUATION REQUIREMENT TEST METHOD 

Colorfastness To Water 

- Color Change Class 4.0 minimum AATCC 107 

- Self Staining Class 5.0 minimum 

Colorfastness to Perspiration 


- Multi-Fiber Staining Class 3.0 minimum 


TRIMS TESTS 


- Chain Crosswise Strength 15 lbs minimum ASTM D 2061 

- Slider Lock Holding 10 lbs minimum 

- Tab Twist Off 6.9 in·lbs minimum 

- Top / Bottom Stop Holding 20 lbs minimum 

Strength 

Snap Strength 15 lbs minimum CFR 1500 

CHEMICAL TESTS 

Total Lead Content EPA Methods 3050B / 3051A 

- Coated & Printed Surfaces < 90 ppm / 3052 

- Other < 200 ppm 

Lead in Surface Coating per California Prop 65 16 CFR 1303 

* Fabrics / laces with opaque and dense areas are required to have BOTH areas tested. Each area must meet the 

listed requirement 

** Do not perform for Dry Clean ONLY styles 

B-14


Product: Woven Tops, Bottoms, and Dresses 

(excluding denim & physically / chemically treated styles*) 



package: 






Torque 


Tear Strength 

Tensile Strength 

Seam Strength 

Seam Slippage 










 










B-15

EVALUATION 


Fiber Content 



No Tolerance 

AATCC 20A 



Fabric Weight 


+/- 5% maximum deviation ASTM D 3776 




- 1 Dry Clean 


AATCC 158 

Torque +/- 3% maximum AATCC 179 



Tear Strength – Elmendorf Method 


- Warp 

3.0 lbs minimum 

ASTM D 1424 

- Filling 

Tensile Strength – Grab Method 



ASTM D 5034 

- Warp 

50 lbs minimum 

- Filling 



- Warp 


- Filling 

Seam Strength 




ASTM D 1683 



Seam Slippage 15 lbs minimum ASTM D 434 

Flammability 



- Face 


ASTM D 4685-89 

- Back 








AATCC 8 / 116 

- Dry 


- Wet 


Dip Dye 


- Dry 


- Wet 



Bleach ** 

Colorfastness to Water 


- Color Change 


AATCC 107 

- Self Staining 





AATCC 15 

- Multi-Fiber Staining 




B-16


TRIMS TESTS 






Strength 



pH Value 5 - 8 AATCC 81 








B-17


Product: Denim & Physically / Chemically Treated Knits / Wovens 

(i.e. Enzyme Wash, Wash Down, Sandblasted, etc.) 



package: 








Tear Strength (Woven) 

Tensile Strength (Woven) 

Bursting Strength (Knit) 

Seam Strength (Woven) 

Seam Slippage (Woven) 



Water Resistance (When Claimed) 

Water Repellency (When Claimed) 








 



pH Value 







pH Value 

* perform testing on Washed Fabric 

B-18

EVALUATION 


Fiber Content 



No Tolerance 

AATCC 20A 


+/-3 % maximum deviation 

Fabric Weight +/-5 % maximum deviation ASTM D 3776 


Knits 



- CVC 

- CVS 


Thermal 

- CVC 

- CVS 

- All Others 

- 1 Dry Clean 

- CVC / CVS 

- All Others 

Wovens 


- Denim 

- All Others 









AATCC 158 


- 1 Dry Clean 

Skew / Torque 



+/- 2% maximum AATCC 158 

- Knits 


AATCC 179 

- Wovens 






- Denim > 8 oz/sq yd 

ASTM D 1424 

- Warp 


- Filling 

- Denim < 8 oz/sq yd 


- Warp 


- Filling 

- All Others 


- Warp 


- Filling 



- Denim 

ASTM D 5034 

- Warp 


- Filling 

- All Others 



- Warp 


- Filling 



- Warp 


- Filling 


B-19



- Fabric 


- Lace 



Seam Strength 

- Denim 










ASTM D 3786 

ASTM D 1683 


Flammability 



- Face 


ASTM D 4685-89 

- Back 


Water Resistance 

Water Repellency 

1 g maximum AATCC 35 

- Original 

90 minimum 

AATCC 22 

- After 3 Washes 

70 minimum 

COLORFASTNESS TESTS - All Colors Must Be Tested 

Colorfastness to Multi-Fiber Strip after 

3 Launderings / 1 Dry Clean 



- Denim – Dark Wash (indigo, 

overdyed, black, sulphur, etc.) 

- Original 

AATCC 8 /116 

- Dry 


- Wet 

- After 1 Wash 


- Dry 


- Wet 

- All Other Denim Washes 


- Dry 


- Wet 

- All Other Fabrics 



- Dry 


- Wet 


Dip Dye 


- Dry 


- Wet 



Bleach ** 





AATCC 107 



B-20






TRIMS TESTS 






Strength 











B-21

Product: Sweaters 




package: 

TEST NAME GARMENT 



Garment Weight 




Bursting Strength 









 





ADDITIONAL COLORWAY TESTS 




B-22



Fiber Content 

- 100% Fabrics No Tolerance AATCC 20A 

- Blended Fabrics +/- 3% maximum deviation 

Garment Weight +/- 5% maximum deviation Lbs / dozen 


- 3 Launderings +/- 5% maximum AATCC 135 or 150 

- 1 Dry Clean +/- 2% maximum AATCC 158 


General Appearance after 3 Satisfactory Visual 



- Fabric 50 psi minimum ASTM D 3786 

- Garment Seams 30 psi minimum 

- Lace 

- > 4 oz/sq yd 30 psi minimum 

- < 4 oz/sq yd 20 psi minimum 

Flammability Class 1 (Pass) CFR 1610 


Colorfastness to Multi-Fiber Strip after Class 4.0 minimum Visual 



- Dry Class 4.0 minimum AATCC 8 / 116 

- Wet Class 3.0 minimum 

Colorfastness to Non-Chlorine Class 4.0 minimum Soak Test 

Bleach ** 








TRIMS TESTS 






Strength 



Total Lead Content EPA Methods 3050B / 3051A / 

- Coated & Printed Surfaces < 90 ppm 3052 



B-23


Product: Lined and Constructed Jackets, Bottoms and Dresses 

(excluding denim & physically / chemically treated styles*) 



package: 






















 










B-24

EVALUATION 


Fiber Content 



No Tolerance 

AATCC 20A 





Knits 



- CVC 

- CVS 


Thermal 

- CVC 

- CVS 

- All Others 

- 1 Dry Clean 

- CVC / CVS 

- All Others 

Wovens 

- 3 Launderings - 5% maximum 









AATCC 158 


- 1 Dry Clean 

Skew / Torque 

+ 3% maximum 


- Knits 

+/-5% maximum 

AATCC 179 

- Wovens 

+/-3% maximum 





- Warp 


ASTM D 1424 

- Filling 



- Shell 

ASTM D 5034 

- Warp 


- Filling 

- Lining 


- Warp 


- Filling 



- Fabric 


ASTM D 3786 


- Lace 






Seam Strength 30 lbs minimum ASTM D 1683 


Flammability 



- Face 


ASTM D 4685-89 

- Back 


B-25






Shell 

- Dry 

- Wet 

Lining 

- Dry 



AATCC 8 / 116 

- Wet 




Bleach ** 










TRIMS TESTS 






- Top / Bottom Stop Holding 

Strength 


Snap Strength 


15 lbs minimum CFR 1500 






listed requirement. 


B-26

Product: Outerwear 




package: 















Water Resistance (When Claimed) 

Water Repellency (When Claimed) 








 









B-27

EVALUATION 


Fiber Content 


- 100% Fabrics No Tolerance 

AATCC 20A 




Knits 



- CVC 

- CVS 


Thermal 

- CVC 

- CVS 

- All Others 

- 1 Dry Clean 

- CVC / CVS 

- All Others 

Wovens 

- 3 Launderings - 5% maximum 









AATCC 158 


- 1 Dry Clean 

Skew / Torque 

+ 3% maximum 


- Knits 

+/-5% maximum 

AATCC 179 

- Wovens 

+/-3% maximum 

General Appearance after 3 Launderings 

/ 1 Dry Clean 



- Warp 


ASTM D 1424 

- Filling 



- Warp 


ASTM D 5034 

- Filling 

Bursting Strength – Mullen Method* 


- Fabric 


ASTM D 3786 


Seam Strength 


- Knits 30 psi minimum ASTM D 3786 

- Wovens 30 lbs minimum ASTM D 1683 


Flammability 



- Face 


ASTM D 4685-89 

- Back 


Water Resistance 

Water Repellency 

1 g maximum AATCC 35 

- Original 

90 minimum 

AATCC 22 

- After 3 Washes 

70 minimum 

B-28






Shell 

- Dry 

- Wet 

Lining 

- Dry 



AATCC 8 / 116 

- Wet 




Bleach ** 










TRIMS TESTS 







Strength 


Snap Strength 










B-29


Product: Sleepwear and Intimate Apparel 



package: 














Stretch & Recovery of Fabric (Bra & Panty Only) 

Stretch & Recovery of Functional Elastic Trims (Bra & Panty Only) 

Dimensional Stability of Functional Elastic Trims (Bra & Panty Only) 





Colorfastness to Perspiration (All Sleepwear & Intimates) 

Colorfastness to Burnt Gas Fumes (White / Pastel Molded Bra Only) 



 



Hook & Eye Tension (Bra Only) 

pH Value (Intimate Apparel Only) 

Formaldehyde Release (Intimate Apparel Only) 







B-30

EVALUATION 


Fiber Content 



No Tolerance 

AATCC 20A 





Knits 



- CVC 

- CVS 


Thermal 

- CVC 

- CVS 

- All Others 

- 1 Dry Clean 

- CVC / CVS 

- All Others 

Wovens 


- 1 Dry Clean 






- 3% maximum / +2% maximum 



AATCC 158 




Functional Elastic Trims 

Skew / Torque 

+/- 3% maximum AATCC 135 or 150 

- Knits 


AATCC 179 

- Wovens 






- Warp 


ASTM D1424 

- Filling 




ASTM D5034 

- Warp 


- Filling 



- Warp 


- Filling 



- Fabric 


ASTM D 3786 


- Lace 





Seam Strength 




ASTM D 1683 




Flammability 


B-31


Stretch & Recovery 

- Fabric 

- % available stretch 

- % recovery 

- Original 

- After Aging 

- Functional Elastic Trims 

(After aging 5 hours at 200° F) 

- Per Elastic Content of Trim 

- 1.0% - 5.0% 

- 5.1% - 10.0% 

- 10.1% + 

Data 

85% at 1 hour 

85% at 1 hour 

5 hours at 200° F 

Growth 7.0% maximum 

(growth & recovery after 60 mins) 

Growth 5.0% maximum 

(growth & recovery after 60 mins) 

Recover 85% minimum 

(recovery after 60 seconds) 

ASTM D 2594 

ASTM D 4964 






- Dry 


AATCC 8 /116 

- Wet 



Bleach ** 





AATCC 107 






AATCC 15 





Colorfastness to Burnt Gas Fumes – 

1 Cycle 

TRIMS TESTS 


Class 4.0 minimum AATCC 23 

- Chain Crosswise Strength 15 lbs minimum 

ASTM D 2061 

- Slider Lock Holding 


- Tab Twist Off 

6.9 in·lbs minimum 


Strength 



Hook & Eye Tension 

No breakage, deformation, 

CSI 1.0 

This test can only be performed at detachment, shifting or other damage 

the following labs: 

after 30 lb hold for 10 seconds. 

- Bureau Veritas – Hong Kong All hooks and eyes are required to 

& Sri Lanka 

- Intertek – Hong Kong 

meet requirements. 

B-32




Formaldehyde Release 75 ppm AATCC 112 








B-33


Product: Swimwear and Swim Cover-Up 



package: 

















Colorfastness to Light 

Colorfastness to Chlorinated Pool Water 

Colorfastness to Sea Water 





 



pH Value (Swimwear Only) 

Formaldehyde Release (Swimwear Only) 







Colorfastness to Light 

B-34

EVALUATION 


Fiber Content 



No Tolerance 

AATCC 20A 





Knits 



- CVC 

- CVS 


Thermal 

- CVC 

- CVS 

- All Others 

- 1 Dry Clean 

- CVC / CVS 

- All Others 

Wovens 


- 1 Dry Clean 

Skew / Torque 

- Knits 

- Wovens 




- Warp 

- Filling 


- Warp 

- Filling 

Bursting Strength – Mullen Method* 

- Fabric 











AATCC 158 


+/-5% maximum 

+/-3% maximum 

AATCC 179 






ASTM D1424 

ASTM D5034 


ASTM D 3786 











- Dry 


AATCC 8 /116 

- Wet 



Bleach ** 

Colorfastness to Light – 20 Hours 


- Non-neons 


AATCC 16E 

- Neons 


B-35


Colorfastness to Chlorinated Pool Water 


Colorfastness to Sea Water 





AATCC 106 








TRIMS TESTS 






Strength 




Formaldehyde Release 75 ppm AATCC 112 








B-36


Product: Leather and Suede Apparel 

(non-synthetic) 



package: 



Leather Identification 


Dimensional Stability after Leather Cleaning / 1 Dry Clean 


General Appearance after Leather Cleaning / 1 Dry Clean 

Tensile Strength (Leather Only) 

Seam Strength 

Tear Strength (Lining Only) 

Seam Slippage (Lining Only) 




 



Total Lead Content (All colors) 

Lead in Surface Coating (All colors) 

Spewing 




B-37

EVALUATION 



Leather Identification Confirm Species of Leather Vendor must supply species 

documentation 

Fabric Weight 



- Leather Cleaning +/- 2% maximum Professional Leather Cleaning 

- 1 Dry Clean 

Skew / Torque 


- Knits +/- 5% maximum AATCC 179 

- Wovens +/- 3% maximum 

General Appearance after Leather 

Cleaning / 1 Dry Clean 



- Warp 3.0 lbs minimum ASTM D1424 

- Filling 



- Leather / Suede 40 lbs minimum ASTM D5034 

- Lining 30 lbs minimum 




COLORFASTNESS TESTS -All Colors Must Be Tested 


- Dry Class 3.0 minimum AATCC 8 /116 

- Wet 

TRIMS TESTS 







Strength 


Snap Strength 




- Coated & Printed Surfaces < 90 ppm 

3052 

- Other 

< 200 ppm 


Spewing No Spewing Evident 48 Hours @ 50° C / 90% 

Relative Humidity; Then 6 

Hours @ -20° C 

B-38


Product: Hats, Scarves, Wraps & Gloves 



package: 





















 









B-39

EVALUATION 


Fiber Content 



No Tolerance 

AATCC 20A 



Fabric Weight 



- 3 Launderings + / - 5% maximum AATCC 135 or 150 

- 1 Dry Clean 

Skew / Torque 


- Knits 


AATCC 179 

- Wovens 


General Appearance after 3 Satisfactory Visual 



- Warp 

- Filling 


- Warp 

- Filling 


- Fabric 

- Seams 

- Lace 








ASTM D1424 

ASTM D5034 

ASTM D 3786 












- Dry 


AATCC 8 /116 

- Wet 



Bleach ** 





AATCC 107 






AATCC 15 




TRIMS TESTS 



- Chain Crosswise Strength 15 lbs minimum 

ASTM D 2061 

- Slider Lock Holding 


- Tab Twist Off 

6.9 in·lbs minimum 


Strength 



B-40

EVALUATION 





3052 

- Other 

< 200 ppm 


B-41


Product: Socks & Hosiery 



package: 









Pilling Resistance 













B-42

EVALUATION 


Fiber Content 


- 100% Fabrics No Tolerance AATCC 20A 


Fabric Weight 



- 3 Launderings + / - 5% maximum AATCC 135 or 150 

- 1 Dry Clean +/- 2% maximum AATCC 158 





Bursting Strength – Mullen Method * 30 psi minimum ASTM D 3786 

Pilling Resistance Class 3.5 @ 30 minutes ASTM D 3512 


COLORFASTNESS TESTS -All Colors Must Be Tested 





- Dry Class 4.0 minimum AATCC 8 /116 

- Wet Class 3.0 minimum 


Bleach ** 














3052 

- Other 

< 200 ppm 

* Fabrics / laces with opaque and dense areas are required to have BOTH areas tested. Each area must meet 

the listed requirement. 


B-43

Apparel Testing Program - CSI Vendor Manual

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