May 2011 - Wildlife Travel

WILDLIFE TRAVEL
Danube Delta
2011
with Henfield Birdwatch
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# DATE LOCATIONS & NOTES
1 12 th May Bucharest Airport to Hotel Diament, Amara
2 13 th May Amara Fishponds, Sraraeu Lake, Babadag Forest, Lake Murighoil, Uzlina
3 14 th May Lakes Uzlina, Cabloalca, Bojarnia, Duraleapa & Isaccel
4 15 th May Uzlina to Sfantu Gheorghe
5 16 th May Sacalin Island and Sfantu Gheorghe
6 17 th May Sfantu Gheorghe to Dunaeat
7 18 th May Dunaeat to Dranov and back
8 19 th May Dunaeat and Lakes Perivolovca, Taranova & Gorgostel then to Uzlina
9 20 th May Uzlina- Nufal – Machin Hills – to Amara
10 21 st May Amara to Bucharest, People's Palace and Historv Buildings Museum
Travellers: Nigel and Debbie Colgate, David and Greta Coleman, Gordon and Sylvia Bain,
Graham and Liz Smith, Celia Beresford and John Gardner, Val Bentley, Sallie Bedford
Pat Dunderdale, Will Green
Leaders: Calin Hodor & Cosmin (EuroDelta), Mike Russell (Wildlife Travel)
Outside the People's Palace - Greta
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Cruising down the Dranov Channel - Gordon
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Relaxing… but not for long! - Val
Invading Sacalin Island - Gordon

Purple Heron - Graham
Roller - Graham
Paddyfield Warbler - Graham
Great Reed Warbler - Graham
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ENGLISH NAME
Danube Delta, species list and trip report, 12 th to 21 st May 2011
LATIN NAME
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12 th
13 th
Family Podicipedidae (Grebes)
Little Grebe Tachybaptus ruficollis •
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18 th
19 th
Black-necked Grebe Podiceps nigricollis • • • •
Great Crested Grebe Podiceps cristatus • • • • • •
Red-necked Grebe Podiceps grisegena • •
Family Pelecanidae (Pelicans)
White Pelican Pelecanus onocrotalus • • • • • • •
Dalmatian Pelican Pelecanus crispus • • • • •
Family Phalacrocoracidae (Cormorants)
Cormorant Phalacrocorax carbo • • • • • • • • •
Pygmy Cormorant Phalacrocorax pygmeus • • • • • • • •
Family Ardeidae (Herons)
Bittern Botaurus stellaris H H H
Little Bittern Ixobrychus minutus • •
Night Heron Nycticorax nycticorax • • • • • • • • •
Little Egret Egretta garzetta • • • • • • • • •
Great White Egret Egretta alba • • • • • • • •
Squacco Heron Ardeola rolloides • • • • • • • •
Grey Heron Ardea cinerea • • • • • • • • •
Purple Heron Ardea purpurea • • • • • • • •
Family Ciconiidae (Storks)
White Stork Ciconia ciconia • • • • • • • • • •
Family Threskiornithidae (Ibises and Spoonbills)
Glossy Ibis Plegadis falcinellus • • • • • • • •
Spoonbill Platalea leucorodia • •
Family Anatidae (Ducks, Geese and Swans)
Mute Swan Cygnus olor • • • • • • • • •
Greylag Goose Anser anser • • • • • • • •
Shelduck Tadorna tadorna • • • • • • •
Ruddy Shelduck Tadorna ferruginea •
Mallard Anas platyrhynchos • • • • • • • • •
Gadwall Anas strepera • • • • •
Shoveler Anas clypeata •
Garganey Anas querquedula • •
Red-crested Pochard Netta rufina • •
Pochard Aythya ferina • • • • • • • •
Ferruginous Duck Aythya nyroca • • • • • • • • •
Family Accipitridae (Hawks, Eagles and Vultures)
White-tailed Eagle Haliaeetus albicilla • • • • • •
Lesser Spotted Eagle Aquila pomarina •
Marsh Harrier Circus aeruginosus • • • • • • • • •
Common Buzzard Buteo buteo • •
Honey Buzzard Pernis apivorus •
Levant Sparrowhawk Accipiter brevipes •
Family Falconidae (Falcons)
Kestrel Falco tinnunculus • • • • • • • • •
Red-footed Falcon Falco vespertinus • • • • • • • •
Hobby Falco subbuteo • • • • • • • • • •
Family Phasianidae (Pheasants and Partridges)
Pheasant Phasianus colchicus • • H H • • H •
Grey Partridge Perdix perdix •
20 th
21 st

ENGLISH NAME
Danube Delta, species list and trip report, 12 th to 21 st May 2011
LATIN NAME
6
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19 th
Family Rallidae (Rails and Crakes)
Moorhen Gallinula chloropus • • • • • • • •
Coot Fulica atra • • • • • • • •
Family Recurvirostridae (Stilts and Avocets)
Avocet Recurvirostra avosetta • • • • • •
Black-winged Stilt Himantopus himantopus • • •
Family Haematopodidae (Oystercatchers)
Oystercatcher Haematopodus ostralegus •
Family Charadriidae (Plovers)
Little Ringed Plover Charadrius dubius •
Kentish Plover Charadrius alexandrinus •
Grey Plover Pluvialis squatarola •
Lapwing Vanellus vanellus • • • • • • • •
Family Scolopacidae (Sandpipers)
Dunlin Calidris alpina •
Curlew Sandpiper Calidris ferruginea • •
Little Stint Calidris minuta •
Green Sandpiper Tringa ochropus • •
Turnstone Arenaria interpres •
Spotted Redshank Tringa erythropus •
Greenshank Tringa nebularia •
Common Sandpiper Actitis hypoleucos • • •
Black-tailed Godwit Limosa limosa •
Curlew Numenius arquata •
Whimbrel Numenius phaecopus •
Ruff Philomachus pugnax •
Family Laridae (Gulls)
Black-headed Gull Larus ridibundus • • • • • • • • •
Mediterranean Gull Larus melanocephalus • • • •
Great Black-headed Gull Larus ichthyaetus • • • •
Caspian Gull Larus cachinnans • • • • • • • • • •
Yellow-legged Gull Larus michahellis •
Little Gull Larus minutus •
Family Stercorariidae (Skuas)
Pomarine Skua Stercocorarius pomarinus •
Family Sternidae (Terns)
Little Tern Sterna albifrons •
Sandwich Tern Sterna sandvicensis •
Gull-billed Tern Sterna nilotica •
Common Tern Sterna hirundo • • • • • • • • •
Caspian Tern Sterna caspia •
Black Tern Chlidonias niger • • • • • • •
White-winged Black Tern Chlidonias leucopterus •
Whiskered Tern Chlidonias hybridus • • • • • • • • •
Family Columbidae (Pigeons and Doves)
Rock Dove/Feral Pigeon Columba livia • • • • • • • • • •
Stock Dove Columba oenas • • H
Woodpigeon Columba palumbus • • • • • •
Collared Dove Streptopelia decaocto • • • • • • • • • •
Turtle Dove Streptopelia turtur • • • • •
Family Cuculidae (Cuckoos)
Cuckoo Cuculus canorus • • • • • • • • •
20 th
21 st

ENGLISH NAME
Danube Delta, species list and trip report, 12 th to 21 st May 2011
LATIN NAME
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12 th
13 th
14 th
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19 th
Family Strigidae (Owls)
Tawny Owl Strix aluco H H H H H H
Little Owl Athene noctua •
Long-eared owl Asio otus • • •
Family Caprimulgidae (Nightjars)
Nightjar Caprimulgus europaeus •
Family Apodidae (Swifts)
Swift Apus apus • • • • •
Family Upupidae (Hoopoes)
Hoopoe Upupa epops • • • • • • • • •
Family Alcedinidae (Kingfishers)
Kingfisher Alcedo atthis • • • • •
Family Meropidae (Bee-eaters)
Bee-eater Merops apiaster • • • • • • • •
Family Coraciidae (Rollers)
Roller Coracias garrulus • • • • • • • • •
Family Picidae (Woodpeckers)
Black Woodpecker Dryocopus martius • •
Grey-headed Woodpecker Picus canus • • • • •
Great Spotted Woodpecker Dendrocopos major • • • • • • •
Syrian Woodpecker Dendrocopos syriacus •
Lesser Spotted Woodpecker Dendrocopos minor H • • H
Wryneck Jynx torquilla •
Family Alaudidae (Larks)
Skylark Alauda arvensis • •
Woodlark Lullula arborea •
Calandra Lark Melanocorypha calandra • •
Family Hirundinidae (Swallows and Martins)
Sand Martin Riparia riparia • • • • • •
Swallow Hirundo rustica • • • • • • • • • •
Red-rumped Swallow Hirundo daurica •
House Martin Delichon urbica • • • • •
Family Motacillidae (Wagtails and Pipits)
White Wagtail Motacilla (alba) alba • • • • • • • • •
Black-headed Wagtail Motacilla (flava) feldegg • • •
‘Romanian’ Yellow Wagtail Motacilla (flava) dombroskii • •
20 th
21 st
Family Turdidae (Thrushes and Chats)
Nightingale Luscinia megarhynchos H H • • H H
Thrush Nightingale Luscinia luscinia • H • H • H
Redstart Phoenicurus phoenicurus • • • • • •
Northern Wheatear Oenanthe oenanthe • •
Isabelline Wheatear Oenanthe isabellina •
Pied Wheatear Oenanthe pleschanka •
Whinchat Saxicola rubetra • • •
(Rufous-tailed) Rock Thrush Monticola saxatilis •
Blackbird Turdus merula • • • • • •
Family Sylviidae (Warblers)
Garden Warbler Sylvia borin H • • • H •
Blackcap Sylvia atricapilla • • • • H
Lesser Whitethroat Sylvia curruca • • • • H
Whitethroat Sylvia communis •
Sedge Warbler Acrocephalus schoenobaenus • H
H H

ENGLISH NAME
Danube Delta, species list and trip report, 12 th to 21 st May 2011
LATIN NAME
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12 th
13 th
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15 th
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17 th
Paddyfield Warbler Acrocephalus agricola •
18 th
19 th
Reed Warbler Acrocephalus scirpaceus • H H • • H H H •
Marsh Warbler Acrocephalus palustris • H H H H H
Great Reed Warbler Acrocephalus arundinaceus H H H H H H H
Savi’s Warbler Locustella luscinioides • H H H H H H
Icterine Warbler Hippolais icterina •
Chiffchaff Phylloscopus collybita • • H H • H H
Willow Warbler Phyllooscopus trochilus • H • H
Family Muscicapidae (Flycatchers)
Spotted Flycatcher Muscicapa striata • • • • • • • •
Collared Flycatcher Ficedula albicollis •
Family Paridae (Tits)
Great Tit Parus major • • • • • • • • •
Blue Tit Parus caeruleus • • • • • • • • •
Family Aegithalidae (Long-tailed Tits)
Long-tailed Tit Aegithalos caudatus • •
20 th
21 st
Family Panuridae (Bearded Tit)
Bearded Tit Panurus biarmicus • • H
Family Certhiidae (Treecreepers)
Short-toed Treecreeper Certhia brachydactyla • • •
Family Laniidae (Shrikes)
Red-backed Shrike Lanius collurio • • • • • •
Lesser Grey Shrike Lanius minor • • • • • • • •
Family Corvidae (Crows)
Magpie Pica pica • • • • • • • • • •
Jay Garrulus glandarius • •
Jackdaw Corvus monedula • • • • • • • •
Rook Corvus frugilegus • • • •
Hooded Crow Corvus cornix • • • • • • • • • •
Family Sturnidae (Starlings)
Starling Sturnus vulgaris • • • • • • • • • •
Family Oriolidae (Orioles)
Golden Oriole Oriolus oriolus • • • • • • • H
Family Passeridae (Sparrows)
House Sparrow Passer domesticus • • • • • • • • • •
Spanish Sparrow Passer hispaniolensis • •
Tree Sparrow Passer montanus • • • • • • • •
Family Fringillidae (Finches)
Chaffinch Fringilla coelebs • H • • • H •
Goldfinch Carduelis carduelis • • • • • • • •
Greenfinch Carduelis chloris • H
Family Emberizidae (Buntings)
Reed Bunting Emberiza schoeniclus • • • • •
Ortolan Bunting Emberiza hortulana •
Corn Bunting Miliaria calandra • •

ENGLISH NAME
Danube Delta, species list and trip report, 12 th to 21 st May 2011
LATIN NAME
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12 th
13 th
14 th
15 th
AMPHIBIANS
Frogs and Toads
Fire-bellied Toad Bombina bombina H
16 th
17 th
18 th
19 th
Green Toad Bufo viridis •
Marsh Frog Rana ridibunda • • • • • • • • • •
REPTILES
Tortoises and Terrapins
European Pond Terrapin Emys orbicularis •
Lizards
Balkan Green Lizard Lacerta trilineata •
Balkan Wall Lizard Podarcis taurica • •
Snake-eyed Skink Ablepharus kitaibelii •
Snakes
Grass Snake Natrix natrix • •
Dice Snake Natrix tessellata • •
MAMMALS
Larger Mammals
Golden Jackal Canis aureus •
Red Fox Vulpes vulpes •
Roe Deer Capreolus capreolus •
Brown Hare Lepus europaeus •
European Souslik Spermophilus citellus •
Brown Rat Rattus norvegicus •
BUTTERFLIES
Scarce Swallowtail Iphiclides podalirius
Southern Festoon Zerytnthia polyxena
Glanville Fritillary Melitaea cinxia
Red Admiral Vanessa atalanta
Selected Plant Species
SCIENTIFIC NAME
Anacardiaceae
ENGLISH NAME
Cotinus coggygria Smoke Bush
Asparagaceae
Muscari comosum Tassel Hyacinth
Boraginaceae
Cerinthe minor Lesser Honeywort
Lithospermum purpurocaerulea Purple Gromwell
Euphorbiaceae
Euphorbia cyparissus Cypress Spurge
Euphorbia palustris Marsh Spurge
Iridaceae
Iris pumila Dwarf Iris
Lamiaceae
Ajuga chamaepitys Ground Pine Babadag: yellow flowers
Orchidaceae
Orchis purpurea Lady Orchid Babadag: very tall, darker
Orchis simia Monkey Orchid Babadag: smaller, paler
Notes
20 th
21 st

Danube Delta, species list and trip report, 12 th to 21 st May 2011
SCIENTIFIC NAME
Paeoniaceae
ENGLISH NAME
Paeonia peregrina The large red paeony, Babadag
Primulaceae
Lysimachia nummularia Creeping Jenny
Ranunculaceae
Adonis vernalis Yellow Pheasant’s-eye
Tamaricaceae
Tamarix gallica French Tamarisk The pinky shrub on sandier places in the delta
One of the nice things about doing the report is that, once you actually get started, it brings back
some really good memories that can all to easily slip away, especially when an ageing memory
comes into play. Sitting down to write this, my overwhelming sense is that it was a great trip:
everything seemed to go smoothly, from leaving Henfield and other parts of Sussex, the Terminal
5 experience at Heathrow made the prospect of flying almost bearable and the flights themselves
were good.
On arrival in Bucharest our meeting with George and Calin and transfer to the coach again all
worked and throughout our time in Romania the organisation of the whole holiday was excellent
and this was very much down to George and his company Eurodelta Travel who was so attentive
to our needs throughout, though even he couldn't quite predict the amount of alcohol a Sussex
group might enjoy!
The following is my interpretation of the 10 days spent in Romania, using my notes and diary that
I can't read and a memory that is starting to become unreliable so I hope it doesn't read as what
can be described as 'faction'!
12 th May
Travelling day which, as I said, went about as smoothly as it could and not long after arriving at
Otependi Airport we were on our way through the the suburbs and industrial sites of Bucharest
and very much the first glimpse of the Country's post 1945 history. It was not long though before
I realised what a difficult group this might be when there was an attempt to try and get a shorttoed
eagle on the list as a distant raptor was spotted from the speeding coach. My resolve stayed
firm and it didn't go down on the list as I was determined to set a precedent that the leader was
always right… even when he tried to turn a female marsh harrier into an osprey and a common
into a Caspian tern at various points in the holiday!
A three-hour journey through very flat and fast developing agricultural plains eventually brought
us to the Hotel Diament at Amara, a comfortable hotel but definitely not after the international
tourist market and we had a first Romanian meal...eventually; but it was very nice and it gave a
chance while we were waiting for a group of people, most of whom already knew each other very
well, to get to know them better.
13 th May
A hardy group assembled before breakfast for a walk around the Amara Fishponds opposite the
hotel on a brilliant sunny morning and, as a leader, you dream that a holiday can start like this as
we enjoyed a fantastic hour and a half's birdwatching. So good was it that Liz nominated it her
most memorable moment of the trip. Immediately we were treated to wonderful close views of
great reed warblers, barking at us from the top of reed stems, while soon we were looking at a
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Notes

Danube Delta, species list and trip report, 12 th to 21 st May 2011
very obliging night heron, the first of many ferruginous ducks while Graham's spotting of the
little bittern at the edge of the reeds turned out to be his most memorable moment.
Here we soon to learnt how common the cuckoo is in Romania and of the many birds seen on
this walk there was two that we would not record again, little grebe and Syrian woodpecker,
the latter only seen by a just few of us.
An enjoyable breakfast followed by an interesting exercise in sorting out the previous night's
drinks bill saw us on our way, a full day's trip to the Delta. However it was full of interesting
stops, the first being at Sraraeu Lake where a short stay saw us find a couple of birds that we
wouldn't see again, a pair of very colourful ruddy shelduck and a more distant lesser-spotted
eagle , while a Steppe buzzard circled high overhead. A beautiful scarce swallowtail butterfly
put in an appearance here as well.
Back onto the bus and we were soon passing through a huge rookery with very low nests in the
stunted oaks and then we had to make an emergency stop.........to photograph the white
stork's nest. Our driver Mischa (?) was very considerate here in that he did put out the
emergency triangle to warn other drivers of the dangerous British birdwatchers ahead. It was a
very worthwhile stop because we got excellent views of the Spanish sparrows breeding in the
base of the stork's nest.
Then onto Babadag Forest and a wonderful couple of hours in this lovely hillside woodland, and a
chance for the keen botanists to get their eye in. A feast of orchids, irises and peony amongst
many others had them in raptures, well all of us really and a list of what was seen has kindly been
provided by Greta and Will. This is the second list actually as the original one set a trend of
objects being whisked off our floating hotel by the wind and sailing serenely down the various
waters of the Danube. Your ever alert leader still had his eyes to the skies and at one point was
treated to a thermal of birds above our heads containing a flock of bee-eaters, a honey
buzzard (our only one) and a Levant sparrowhawk, my bird of the trip, while everyone
enjoyed the close views of the ortolan bunting. Here we also caught up with a few reptiles as
well, Balkan green lizard, Balkan wall lizard and a snake-eyed skink. Debbie's trousers
seemed to fascinate a very colourful southern festoon butterfly.
Onwards, to Murighoil where an ice-cream stop was very welcome, and a very productive 30
minutes at the lakes before we arrived at our floating hotel. Spectacular display of terns, gulls
herons, grebes greeted the eyes and there were a few species here that we wouldn't see again
little gull, whimbrel, curlew, gull-billed tern and the beautiful white-winged black tern.
At this point we had accumulated 88 species for the day so it was time to join 'The Kingfisher',
our home for the next seven nights, and once we were settled in our compact but comfortable
cabins and up to the lovely dining room for our first meal.....which probably involved some form
of fish.
14 th May
Just Nigel made the pre-breakfast walk in the woods adjacent to our mooring at Uzlina. Eventually
views of common redstart, short-toed treecreeper, and spotted flycatcher were enjoyed
while tree sparrows flew around us.
After breakfast we got into the small boats and spent a hugely enjoyable three hours exploring
lakes and rivers around Ulzina. On this excursion we got experience of the flights of the white
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Danube Delta, species list and trip report, 12 th to 21 st May 2011
pelicans which captivated everyone, but particularly Liz and Debbie who both nominated them as
their favourite bird. A few Dalmation pelicans were also noted but during the whole morning
terns, herons, egrets, ducks, cormorants and pelicans flew or floated before us. All this to an
overwhelming chorus of marsh frogs and Pat said that her favourite moment was turning off the
boat engines and just listening to the frog chorus. Seeing a couple of pairs of red-necked
grebes was a highlight here.
Three hours in a small boat can stiffen up the joints so everyone appreciated the after lunch time
free time of just relaxing on the sun deck or exploring the woods around the boat a bit more.
15 th May
More of us got up early this morning and along with the birds seen yesterday morning, also
caught up with an excellent view of a female lesser spotted woodpecker and an out of habitat
northern wheatear. As much as we tried we couldn't see the very vocal thrush nightingale.
The rest of the morning was spent being pulled serenely down to Sfantu Gheorghe a glorious
chance to relax, read, and occasionally raise one's eyes to observe the numerous birds from the
luxury of a sun lounger. Rollers were now being seen regularly helped by the fact they are
extremely colourful, sit right out on dead branches and then would fly off, sometimes treating us
to their rolling flight. Pat chose this species as her favourite bird as did Nigel, he especially liked
the one that chased a couple of startled mallards. Also being seen regularly were the
extraordinarily exotic bee-eaters, John's best bird of the holiday. A new bird for me was the
Pallas's gull of which we began to see many and had moved into the Delta since my last visit in
2006.
Passing slowly down the river it was staggering the size of the landscape and seemingly endless
habitats and it was the vastness of the reedbeds that stuck in the mind of Greta.
We arrived at our birth for the next two nights at Sfantu Georghe, a village that every now again
finds that it has a hotel next to it. After lunch the tug took us up the channel and then left us to
walk back for 2 hours, and another great feast of birdwatching. Here we caught up with some
newly arrived migrants that included whinchat, a female collared flycatcher and a couple of
spotted flycatchers, which turned out to be Sallie's favourite bird. Also we got extremely close
the first of many lesser grey shrikes. Will and I managed to find a gloriously lemon tinged
icterine warbler.
Out on the wetland areas we began to pick out a few waders, the pick of which was the two
summer plumaged spotted redshanks and greenshanks, while a handsome male garganey
was clearly visible. A fine male marsh harrier was in view for much of the afternoon.
16 th May
Apparently the look on my face when John arrived twenty minutes early for the pre-breakfast
walk was his most memorable moment, but I think he enjoyed the walk even though we only
managed about 100 yards, as there was so much to see. The close-by bee-eaters in the glorious
early morning sun remained long in the memory of Celia as did the night herons going to and fro
from their nesting colony just the other side of the river, and she made that species as her bird of
the trip. Getting a view of the constantly reeling Savi's warbler was a minor triumph as was
seeing the marsh warbler.
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Danube Delta, species list and trip report, 12 th to 21 st May 2011
A trip to Sacalin Island on the Black Sea after breakfast was a logistic triumph for George and his
crew in getting us on the land because of the low levels of water but manage he did, and the
feeling that you were at the edge of Europe was palpable, to the extent that David recalled it as
his most vivid memory. Bird wise it was excellent; a few familiar waders were noted, but the most
unfamiliar being the Kentish plover. It was lovely to see a huge raft of roosting pelicans and
then we were treated to a couple of rather special birds as well, a large red -beaked Caspian
tern suddenly flew over so everyone could see it and then Calin got very excited when a
pomarine skua flew close by, a very rare bird in Romania. Little and sandwich terns were
also seen here, as were some bearded tits at the boat mooring. One boat load had a good view
of a dice snake swimming in the water, while waiting for the boats some of us were privileged to
sit next to a rather nice otter spraint.
Definitely wind blown but satisfied with the morning we set off back for lunch and a siesta before
a walk through the village and out the other side to the Black Sea Coast. Sfantu Gheorge is one of
the large settlements in the Delta and it was interesting to see the development of a marina
there, an indication of the European money now coming into the country. It was a mixture of
traditional housing with their well tended gardens and produce and the ugly post-war tenements
with a definite whiff of new money coming in. The unmade streets and number of horses and
carts mixed with the new 4-wheel drives gave testimony to this mixing of 19 th and 21 st century
Romania and which provided Will with a lasting memory of the country. Similarly, the
juxtaposition of a man driving a horse and cart while talking on a mobile phone was not lost on
Val, her most memorable moment of the trip.
On the bird front the big surprise was the nightjar which flew across the street in broad daylight
and it was nice to hear a willow warbler from a garden while out of the village we were treated
to fine close up views of more whinchats and lesser grey shrikes which had now been joined by
their cousins the red-backed shrike. Any activity on this trip would not be the same without
involving a boat trip of sorts and sure enough the boats came to collect us and carry us back to
the Kingfisher for dinner.
17 th May
A very pleasant pre-breakfast hour was spent overlooking the marshy area behind the village
where both shrike species performed well and it was nice to get really good views of a hoopoe,
while some managed to get a good view of a Savi's warbler.
It was time to move from Sfantu Gheorge and so we made our sedate journey back up river to
Dunaeat a journey of about 4 hours that was punctuated by the number of hats making a break
for freedom. Debbie's managed to escape altogether but, thanks to one of the crew,
affectionately known as 'Boy Racer', who valiantly rescued Will's rather stylish straw hat.
As for the birds, rest was quite difficult as every other tree seemed to contain a roller, various
warblers sang lustily from the banks, we were soon back amongst the impressive Palla's gulls
again. Just as you thought it was safe to shut your eyes for a minute, a cry of 'black
woodpecker' went up as a female flew along the bank and rested in a convenient tree. Also on
this part of the trip, most people got a good view also of a grey-headed woodpecker. Passing
by a couple of bee-eater colonies and a sandbank in the middle of the river junction we could just
make out curlew sandpiper and a solitary little stint.
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Danube Delta, species list and trip report, 12 th to 21 st May 2011
Mooring up on a bank in the most beautiful spot next to a woodland and was to be our home for
the next two nights. A late afternoon walk again provided a myriad of wildlife experiences, the
plant people finding more treasures while Cosmin and his net brought a number of insects to
show us. Will provided the bird highlight when he spied a long-eared owl not too far away and I
think most people saw it then before it flew away, if not then on subsequent walks. The adult was
a bit flighty but then a very visible youngster was seen, who obviously thought he was invisible
but allowed us all see it so well from a safe distance. This experience provided both Val and
Gordon with their 'best' bird moment. A wryneck also called and provided views for just a couple
of us while a pair of redstarts starting to nestbuild was a delight to watch.
The isolated location should have provided a peaceful nights sleep, lulled by the soothing chorus
of frogs and lapping water, but the local hounds had other thoughts and decided that they
wanted to add their incessant barking to the night sympathy.....that and Cosmin's snoring!
18 th May
Up early on the top deck help helped vanquish the night time trials as golden orioles, garden
warbler, thrush nightingale and common nightingale were the star performers in the early
morning chorus and it was this feature of the holiday that will remain with Sallie for a long time.
The eight hours following was spent on boats of diminishing size as we headed down the Dranov
channel to the coast again, necessitated by the low levels of water the Delta is experiencing this
year. Nevertheless it was great experience, the number of birds flying off was fantastic. This
drifting along in small boats with the birds and scenery is the lasting memory of the trip for Sylvia
and also provided her with the best bird when the glossy ibises flew off in front of us, their
purple sheen glistening in the sun. It was in this bit also that David and Greta their favourite bird
as well as we drifted slowly underneath a stunning pair of red-footed falcons,Greta particularly
liking the female.
After 2½ hours we eventually arrived at the destination at Dranov on the Black Sea Coast and we
went in search for the target bird. A white stork's nest provided a nice distraction but after only a
few hundred yards we arrived at the habitat. I expected a long frustrating wait but no, the
paddyfield warbler popped up quite close and performed really well for us, so much that
Graham nominated it as his favourite bird. So, eight hours, four boats and a severely delayed
lunch all for a little brown job that looks like many other little brown jobs; you're all hardened
birders now! It was an interesting beach there but a few of us had trouble with other warblers
and couldn't quite bring themselves to clinch the identification of an olive tree warbler, but we
did settle on common and lesser whitethroat and a marsh warbler.
The journey back was again a feast of birds and the front boat was treated to many golden
orioles flitting back and forth. However the star was a golden jackal sitting on the edge of a
marshy area which I think everyone saw well, as they did a couple of European pond terrapins
basking on the side and some saw a grass snake swim across the water as well.
Back on board and after a hearty lunch people did their own thing, some went back to look for
the owl and redstarts, Will to some sketching and others to spend time on their own. The dogs
were under the impression we enjoyed the previous nights concert so obliged with a repeat
performance, bringing out another side of Gordon's character which hadn't previously surfaced!
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Danube Delta, species list and trip report, 12 th to 21 st May 2011
19 th May
Another lovely outing in the small boats to various lagoons around Dunaeat where the highlight
was the 'funnel' of 300 white pelicans that enchanted Debbie so much, but again the number of
birds, of which the squacco heron was particularly numerous, was fantastic. By this time I was
getting delusional as a common tern I was watching seemed to change into a Caspian, and just s
I called out, it turned back into a common again! Still, I think I was safe with the lovely
whiskered and black terns that abounded here, both seen many times before, but no less
lovely for that.
Alas we were then on our way back to Uzlina for our last night on the boat and to their horror
some of the company learnt that they had drunk the hotel almost dry! No gin for the tonics, one
last beer between ten of us and the last dribblings of the white wine. However we all coped
heroically and particularly enjoyed the stuffed pike starter and then the main course which was
also lovely and it was meat so I really relished it!
20 th May
Sadly it was time to leave 'The Kingfisher' but not without a rousing rendition of 'for They are Jolly
Good Fellows' which I think surprised and pleased Carmelia, Corina the Chef and the boat crew
who had looked after us splendidly and the singing recognised this fact. The food in particular
was very good and the cake baked on the last night was especially nice. This outpouring of
musicality provided Nigel with his most memorable moment.
By now the weather was looking a bit threatening having been so good all week but the rain held
off for our first stop not long after leaving Murighoil, a fantastic bee-eater colony with the birds
still busy excavating their nest holes. A brief scan around the sand cliff face revealed a sleepy
little owl sitting quietly outside one hole and in one isolated tree, a female kestrel was sitting
on her nest.
A longish drive with a brief stop in Machin for provisions and we then arrived at the Machin
Hills....and rain. A few hardy souls stood in the lee of the bus and rewarded with numerous corn
buntings and then an Isabelline wheatear, just about distinguishable from its northern cousin
while a brown hare and red fox were also noted. The rain eased enough to brave a walk and
we were well rewarded for this decision.
As we started to walk up a hill a beautiful black and white bird was sitting on top of a stalk before
flying up to the cliffs which was easily identifiable as a pied wheatear, while a rock thrush
sitting right on top of the cliffs was less obliging. A lovely song was coming from somewhere
amongst the cliffs that sounded familiar when the perpetrator of this song revealed itself to be a
woodlark and promptly became Will's bird of the trip. Time was getting but on the way back to
the bus, one more new bird flew in front of some of us, a red-rumped swallow, helpfully flying
in unison with the common swallow, or barn swallow as we are now supposed to call it. Those
who remained by the bus didn't miss out as they were treated to a sighting of a calandra lark.
A long drive but eventually we arrived back at the Diament Hotel, but not before passing by a
lovely steppe grassland area where a number of souslik, delightful small burrowing rodents were
easily seen from the bus.
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Danube Delta, species list and trip report, 12 th to 21 st May 2011
Sorting out the menu was as challenging on the last night as it was on the first but eventually we
all got fed and enjoyed the food, but the length of the meal meant that not everyone had enough
energy left to tackle Will's excellent quiz; his visual interpretation of 'hoopoe' was a masterpiece!
It was great to hear everyone's favourite bird and memorable moments at the end of the meal, all
of which have been recounted above apart from Debbie's, Gordon and my own. These moments
were all general impressions of the trip; Debbie citing the fact that everyone had smiles on their
faces as they viewed the parade of birds, butterflies, plants and the wonderful Danube Delta while
mine was the number of 'Wows' elicited by seeing so many through the telescope. Gordon
summed it up that his moment was the fact that he had spent a great ten days with a lovely
bunch of people; well said!
21 st May
The last day started for some with a pre-breakfast walk around the ponds again and just as
enjoyable as the first with the added bonus of some black-necked grebes. It think everyone
enjoyed the drive through Bucharest and looking at The People's Palace, Ceacescau's monumental
folly to himself and a rather pleasant couple of hours at the Museum of Building's just to round off
the holiday.
So everyone and their belongings including David's jacket, Val's trousers and Graham's wallet all
made it back to the airport. David's attempts to leave his jacket behind had become so legendary
that even the BA check-in girl asked if he still had it with him! We said goodbye and thanks to
George for all his hard work. Arriving back at Heathrow Nigel managed to smuggle through all his
new lifers and not long after were again seeing the lovely South Downs in the evening sun.
I hope, and think, everyone had a great time. It has been very enjoyable reliving the trip through
this report; I hope it does the same for you.
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