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Kotinurkka -<br />
The Corner of the Home<br />
by Sargit Sohlberg Warriner<br />
Visiting a friend in Helsinki last November,<br />
I enjoyed seeing the first snowflakes of<br />
winter blanketing Helsinki in white. There<br />
was a wonderful calmness all around. My friend<br />
remarked, with a sense of a relief in her voice,<br />
how this snowfall was a welcome change from the<br />
constant grayness of the previous month.<br />
We strolled to a favorite coffeehouse located<br />
in Senate Square in downtown Helsinki. What<br />
a pleasure it was to enter! The aroma of freshly<br />
brewed coffee filled the room and the small<br />
candles flickering on the window sills added to the<br />
atmosphere. The delicious coffee was served to<br />
our small marble table along with three chocolate<br />
sweets wrapped in golden paper.<br />
The view from our table was picturesque. We could see streetcars passing by and<br />
pedestrians clutching their umbrellas; and, in the distance, behind the statue of Tsar<br />
Alexander II, stood a majestic white church. This church has had several names. The<br />
original structure was built when Finland was the Grand Duchy of Finland, and the<br />
church was named after Tsar Nicholas. Then, after Finland gained independence, the<br />
church was renamed Tuomiokirkko, known informally by locals as the “big church”<br />
(Suurkirkko). Today it is called the National Cathedral.<br />
There had been several early churches in Helsinki but fires and wars destroyed them.<br />
Interestingly, many of these structures had been located in close proximity to the present<br />
day National Cathedral. In 1726, one such church was erected to replace a previous<br />
church, which had burned down during the bitter fights of 1713 when a large portion<br />
of Helsinki residents escaped to Sweden. This Lutheran church was named after the<br />
Queen of Sweden, Ulrika Eleonora. Eventually, the Ulrica Eleonora church was also<br />
demolished to make way for the new National Cathedral.<br />
The history of the Ulrika Eleonora church must have fascinated Helsinki residents<br />
for generations, because detailed information about its structure and interior as well as<br />
all the changes and additions the church went through during the early 1800s have been<br />
well documented. Indeed, my friend informed me that in 1997, the church was recreated<br />
in its original scale as an ice sculpture at the approximate site where the original church<br />
had stood. She also mentioned how small it was inside. Perhaps only one hundred<br />
worshippers could attend a service at the same time<br />
The National Cathedral, however, can easily accommodate hundreds. It is perched on<br />
a hillside, and it looks to me as if it is hovering over downtown Helsinki. The church is<br />
also easily visible from the ocean as you approach the city. “The church is more than a<br />
place of worship” my friend commented, “it symbolizes something permanent and solid.<br />
It is a part of the historic events that have taken place in and around Senate Square.”<br />
Poem by Jane Noffke<br />
On The Boats<br />
You will say that I, who have no children,<br />
Cannot know the depth of a parent’s love.<br />
But I knew my mother’s desperation<br />
And my father’s quiet resolve.<br />
I know the simple courage it required<br />
To hold my shaking body close to his,<br />
To remove my arms from his neck,<br />
To hear me cry, “Don’t go, Daddy, please don’t go,”<br />
To wipe the tears from my cheeks<br />
To tuck me back in bed<br />
And then<br />
To go.<br />
To go alone into the still black morning,<br />
To leave us for a season “on the boats,”<br />
To shovel coal in the belly of a Great Lakes Freighter<br />
To take what work he could when there was no choice.<br />
He went because he loved us<br />
And because love is not easy.<br />
He went because he was our father<br />
And because he knew what that meant.<br />
© Jane Noffke (Photo of Jane and her father provided by Jane Noffke)<br />
Helsinki’s National Cathedral:<br />
More Than<br />
A Place of Worship<br />
In 1812, Helsinki became the capital of<br />
Finland. The population of the new capital<br />
started to grow rapidly, and a larger Lutheran<br />
church was soon needed. In 1816, architect<br />
Carl Ludvig Engel was commissioned to design<br />
Helsinki’s important public buildings including the<br />
buildings of Senate Square. He kept in mind the<br />
growing need for a magnificent cathedral to unite<br />
the architectural look of the other buildings. He<br />
could also foresee the possible problems involved<br />
in clearing the massive rock base in order for this<br />
new church to be built.<br />
During the construction of the National<br />
Cathedral many of Helsinki’s citizens were eagerly<br />
following the progress of the building site. Some must have dreamed of attending the<br />
first service at the new church. It took twenty-five years to build. Many of the people<br />
following its contruction did not live to see it completed and nor did the architect himself,<br />
who died in 1840. The first service was held at the National Cathedral in 1852.<br />
Of course, while the future cathedral was under construction, a temporary church<br />
was needed. Carl Ludvig Engel was also commissioned for this project. This church<br />
was to be built of wood and situated outside of the town limits. He emphasized that this<br />
building was to be a temporary construction.<br />
Interested in saving money, the city decided to use the interior from the Ulrika<br />
Eleonora Church as much as possible. What could not be used, including the painting<br />
that had graced the altar, was auctioned to the highest bidder. The temporary church<br />
was dedicated in December 1826. Today it is called the Old Church (Vanha Kirkko),<br />
and far from being temporary, it was recently totally renovated.<br />
The town grew to include the Old Church, and today it stands in a small park<br />
downtown. Helsinki residents have voted it the most charming church in Helsinki.<br />
I certainly think so. Years ago, my own wedding ceremony was held there. I<br />
wonder how many of our local guests knew that the pews they sat on as well as the gold<br />
embellished pulpit were originally from the small Ulrica Eleonora church. My friend<br />
told me that she had not visited the Old Church prior to my wedding ceremony, but she<br />
felt the lightness and beauty that Carl Engel had created as soon as she stepped in the<br />
church.<br />
Today, however, we were enjoying the view of the National Cathedral building. As my<br />
friend looked out from the coffeehouse’s window, she mentioned how spacious it looks<br />
and feels inside. She continued by saying how much she admires the beauty and majesty<br />
of the building itself. As we watched its two cupolas dotted with golden stars shine so<br />
beautifully through the snowfall, I pointed out the wide, massive steps of the church that<br />
face the Square. Did she know how many are there? There are forty eight steps in all,<br />
although it felt that there was at least double the number when I climbed them.<br />
JANUARY - FEBRUARY - MARCH • 2010 WINTER NEW WORLD FINN<br />
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