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January/February 2013 Issue - Filoli

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CAMELLIA RENOVATION<br />

AT FILOLI<br />

by<br />

Paul Cady<br />

The camellia collection at <strong>Filoli</strong> is an extensive<br />

and historic part of the garden. Of the more than<br />

100 species of camel lia worldwide, <strong>Filoli</strong> has<br />

nine species and hybrids; our largest collections<br />

are of Camellia japonica, C. sasanqua, and C.<br />

reticulata, with C. japonica cultivars being the<br />

best represented. Most of the camellias at <strong>Filoli</strong><br />

were planted by Mrs. Roth when she was in<br />

residence from the 1930s to the 1970s, mainly in<br />

the walled and woodland gardens. Camellias can<br />

also be found around the house, Garden Shop, and<br />

near the balustrades along the lawns. Camellias<br />

are in bloom from late October to May.<br />

Camellias at <strong>Filoli</strong> are pruned extensively every<br />

year to encourage flowering, remove dead wood,<br />

and maintain their size and shape. The goal of<br />

our pruning is to create a small tree or shrub with<br />

a uniform branch structure supporting a dense<br />

canopy, which will produce a wall of flowers when<br />

in bloom. Most of our camellias are shaped into<br />

specific forms, while others in less formal areas<br />

are allowed to expand and grow to their full sizes.<br />

This latter tactic was employed for many years<br />

in the walled and woodland gardens, resulting in<br />

large mature plants. Unfortunately, the eventual<br />

A JOURNAL FROM THE<br />

GARDEN AT FILOLI<br />

size of the camellias was not taken into account at<br />

planting. The result was overcrowding and a tall,<br />

arching canopy with few lower branches and large<br />

dimensions out of scale with the surrounding<br />

garden. Because camellias flower on previous<br />

year’s growth, most of the growth was at the top<br />

and the majority of the flowers were high off the<br />

ground where no one could see them.<br />

Due to overcrowding, inaccessibility of flowers,<br />

and general scale issues, the decision was made<br />

in 2008 to renovate the Camellia japonica and<br />

C. sasanqua shrubs in the walled and woodland<br />

gardens. Renovation is an accepted horticultural<br />

practice for reducing the size of camellias. Once a<br />

hard cut (renovation) is made, the dormant buds in<br />

the trunks have the ability to sprout and grow into<br />

new branches. At <strong>Filoli</strong> we do not renovate C.<br />

reticulata as we have found they do not respond<br />

as well, if at all, to hard renovation pruning.<br />

Before considering renovation, you should realize<br />

that pruning begets more pruning; once you<br />

begin pruning, the plant will have to be pruned<br />

every year to retrain and maintain the shape and<br />

size. Depending on the eventual size, the time<br />

commitment for pruning can be sizeable. If<br />

not properly trained after the initial renovation,<br />

the plant will produce copious amounts of<br />

weak, spindly growth, which is not conducive<br />

to creating an attractive, well maintained shrub<br />

and will probably leave you with a less desirable<br />

specimen. At <strong>Filoli</strong> we have committed ourselves<br />

to the necessary extra pruning time.<br />

Starting in 2008, and continuing to the present,<br />

the horticultural staff has been systematically<br />

renovating the overgrown specimens. In general,<br />

most plants have been brought down to a height<br />

between 6 and 10 feet, though some plants in<br />

the centers of beds have been left taller. All the<br />

sawing work was done with hand saws, rather<br />

than chain saws, to ensure clean, precise cuts.<br />

Plants were renovated into loose pyramidal<br />

shapes, with the top of the pyramid being as close<br />

to the middle of the plant as possible (see upper<br />

left photo, page 2). A strong horizontal branching<br />

pattern is ideal, and this was taken into account<br />

when pruning decisions were made. Sides were<br />

cut hard to maintain the structure of the pyramid,<br />

while leaving room for new growth to fill in and<br />

create the desired horizontal branching effect.<br />

Some vertical side growth was removed even if<br />

it created holes in the shrub, because removing<br />

vertical growth encourages bud sprouting from<br />

the inside of the plant, creating a better horizontal<br />

structure.<br />

Ideally, all renovation would be done in late<br />

winter in order to give the most time for new<br />

NUMBER 60 PAGE 1 © WINTER <strong>2013</strong> FILOLI

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