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24<br />

LEINSTER<br />

III<br />

Beauty of this kind stretches away from Dublin<br />

north and west over the broad fertile plain of Fingal,<br />

the territory of the "White Strangers", the fair-haired<br />

Norsemen. You can find such beauty, with scenic<br />

accessories, in the famous Phoenix Park — so called<br />

by corruption of the Gaelic name given to a well<br />

there, Fionn Uisge, the Bright Water. The wide<br />

expanse of the park has lovely glades, deer-haunted<br />

like the one which Mr. Williams has pictured; it<br />

has backgrounds of mountain, the Dublin hills loom-<br />

ing up to the south; it has foregrounds of cricket<br />

matches, or, better still, of hurling. Hurley is the<br />

most picturesque game I have ever seen played, ex-<br />

cept polo; and polo, too, in the summer, you can<br />

watch in the Phoenix at its very best, though the<br />

splendid ground is less beautiful than it was before the<br />

great " February storm " of 1903 swept down the long<br />

line of elms which bordered it. Still, in "horseshow<br />

week ", when the cup matches are on, all the world can<br />

go and see, "free, gracious, and for nothing", one of<br />

the finest spectacles that modern civilization can afford.<br />

Skirting the park to the south, and trending west-<br />

ward, is the valley of the Liffey, and no one looking<br />

at the unsightly, sometimes unsavoury, stream which<br />

divides Dublin would guess at the beautiful water which

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