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LEINSTER 41
line tnan the Dublin, Wicklow, and Wexford, and
if its trains are something sluggish, why, you have
the more time to admire the view. Beyond Grey-
stones you pass through a long marsh, full of wild
fowl, and then come to Wicklow, a pleasant little
town sheltered by its low head. There is an old
Norman keep here, Black Castle, but much more re-
markable is the work of modern builders. Wicklow
Head is adorned with three lighthouses—one carrying
a light. The first tower was built by a wise and
thoughtful Government, and the lamp duly fixed with
ceremony. But when it came to be lit, seamen reported
that while from certain quarters it was admirably
visible, the Head itself blocked it from half the horizon.
Nothing daunted, Government ordered another tower
to be built on a spot indicated in their offices, and
built it was. This illumined the previously excluded
section of sea, but was shut out from the area lighted
by the first tower. Finally, as a counsel of despair,
they sent down someone to look at the ground, and the
third tower, which now carries the light, was duly
erected. The other two remain as monuments of the
persistence with which the English Government has
sought to do things right in Ireland.
From Wicklow you strike into a new type of
country. Rathnew brings you close to the Devil's
Glen, another Dargle, but one with less urbanity and