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December 09, 2005 - Glebe Report

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FEATURE <strong>Glebe</strong> <strong>Report</strong> <strong>December</strong> 9, <strong>2005</strong> 26<br />

Wines for the festive season<br />

BY J. PHILLIP NICHOLSON<br />

Nasty November is behind us.<br />

Whatever leaves didn't get raked up<br />

are darned-well going to STAY there<br />

over the winter! Time to turn our<br />

thoughts to the festive season. And<br />

whether it's Christmas, Hanukkah,<br />

Saturnalia or Inti Rayma (the Incan<br />

Festival of the Sun), celebrating winter<br />

solstice calls for too much food<br />

and, okay, let's responsibly say "just<br />

enough" wine.<br />

APERITIFS<br />

You can't do much better than<br />

Croft's Original Fine Pale Cream<br />

Sherry, well chilled. It has all the<br />

perkiness that the addition of brandy<br />

brings to the base Palomino wine.<br />

But "cream" means sweet, so its addition<br />

of unfermented grape juice<br />

takes the edge off what would otherwise<br />

be an austere bone-dry fino.<br />

Any white port on the rocks with a<br />

wedge of lemon is an equal crowdpleaser:<br />

spicy, velvety, zingy. Moscato<br />

d'Asti is a gorgeous, fruity,<br />

slightly effervescent, low-alcohol<br />

(five per cent) wine that can put a<br />

smile on the grimmest of grinches.<br />

And nothing's complete without a<br />

sparkling wine; just make sure it's an<br />

authentic Champagne-method wine<br />

(secondary bottle fermentation,<br />

rather than soda-pop style bubble injection).<br />

Spain's Segura Viudas<br />

(toasty teabiscuit) and Australia's<br />

Seaview Brut (crisp) are delightful<br />

and about one-third the price of their<br />

upscale (French) competitors.<br />

APPETIZERS<br />

Rich appetizersfrom ginger<br />

shrimps and feta fils to potato<br />

latkes and smoked chardemand<br />

versatile food-friendly wines. Any<br />

Ontario VQA Riesling, typically less<br />

than $15, is up to the job, as are<br />

those from Alsace (dry, despite the<br />

German-style bottle). A crisp Sauvignon<br />

Blanc is equally refreshing and<br />

versatile (and perfect with goat<br />

cheese). Les Baronnes Sancerre<br />

from Henri Bourgeois is the metric<br />

bar against which I measure all others,<br />

although I'm partial to New<br />

Zealand versions, ranging from<br />

steely gooseberry to wet-hay herbaceous.<br />

For a classy light red, try a<br />

Cru Beaujolais (one of the 10 top<br />

Gamay communes). Georges<br />

Duboeuf's Combes au Jacques<br />

(Beaujolais Villages classification) is<br />

a fine contender.<br />

AFTERS<br />

For traditional fruit cake, plum<br />

pudding, or saillen, any Ontario lateharvest<br />

Riesling, Vidal or Gewurztraminer<br />

will lend apple, tropical<br />

fruit and apricot notes, while Lustau's<br />

East India sherry will provide<br />

dried fruit, caramel and butterscotch<br />

flavours to trigger dangerously delicious<br />

explosions. And Walnut Brown<br />

sweet sherry from Williams and<br />

Humbert simply can't be trusted<br />

alone with your favourite dried<br />

fruits. Finally, with price tags to<br />

match their 10, 20, 30 or 40 years of<br />

oak aging, tawny ports offer elegant<br />

layers of dried fruit, butterscotch,<br />

toffee, licorice and orange peel. In<br />

fact, skip the dessert!<br />

Vintage (darker) port and blue<br />

cheese just love each other. The<br />

sweet spiciness of this fortified wine<br />

is a perfect foil for the creamy richness<br />

and saltiness of the cheese. Get<br />

the most expensive true "vintage"<br />

(bottled early to trap the flavours)<br />

that you can afford. Otherwise, at<br />

one-third the cost, opt for any "late<br />

bottled vintage," which neither needs<br />

nor benefits from bottle aging. (Who<br />

wants to wait, anyway?) Dark chocolate<br />

and port? In a word: "yup." In<br />

two words: "yum yum."<br />

Round things off with fresh walnuts,<br />

filberts, pecans and Brazil nuts<br />

paired with a dry, nutty oloroso sherry.<br />

Lustau's Don Nutio is as fine as<br />

they come. Zap some almonds until<br />

toasty warm and feel the afterglow as<br />

you sip. For a special treat, try the<br />

rare palo cortado sherry, halfway in<br />

style between a bone-dry fino and<br />

the more voluptuous oloroso. There<br />

is no prettieror more deliciousamber-coloured<br />

anything on the<br />

planet.<br />

<strong>Glebe</strong> resident Phil Nicholson is<br />

the co-founder, first president and<br />

now a governor of the National Capital<br />

Sommelier Guild and a former<br />

Ottawa Wine Person of the Year<br />

oP'edble Anne<br />

ortin<br />

One of Canada's Leading Portrait Photographers<br />

Nappy<br />

WO &rays<br />

From all of us at<br />

Von's<br />

14;41<br />

233-3277 232-2703<br />

The Perfect 3-foCiday Gift:<br />

Your Portrait Session at<br />

Hélène Anne Fortin's House of Photography<br />

In the <strong>Glebe</strong>, see Hélène Anne Fortin's portraits at <strong>Glebe</strong> Side Kids,<br />

Davidson's Jewellers, Berry's Pet Food; and the Wild Oat (to mid-<strong>December</strong>)<br />

www.hafortinphoto.ca 459.2161<br />

819 Bank Street (Fifth Avenue Court)<br />

Free Parking at Rear<br />

11<br />

744<br />

to all of you we're ce-lebrating 26 years in the <strong>Glebe</strong> during<br />

the holiday season. We look forward to seeing you over the<br />

holidays and wish you and your family a happy New Year!

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