December 09, 2005 - Glebe Report
December 09, 2005 - Glebe Report
December 09, 2005 - Glebe Report
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FEATURE <strong>Glebe</strong> <strong>Report</strong> <strong>December</strong> 9, <strong>2005</strong> 26<br />
Wines for the festive season<br />
BY J. PHILLIP NICHOLSON<br />
Nasty November is behind us.<br />
Whatever leaves didn't get raked up<br />
are darned-well going to STAY there<br />
over the winter! Time to turn our<br />
thoughts to the festive season. And<br />
whether it's Christmas, Hanukkah,<br />
Saturnalia or Inti Rayma (the Incan<br />
Festival of the Sun), celebrating winter<br />
solstice calls for too much food<br />
and, okay, let's responsibly say "just<br />
enough" wine.<br />
APERITIFS<br />
You can't do much better than<br />
Croft's Original Fine Pale Cream<br />
Sherry, well chilled. It has all the<br />
perkiness that the addition of brandy<br />
brings to the base Palomino wine.<br />
But "cream" means sweet, so its addition<br />
of unfermented grape juice<br />
takes the edge off what would otherwise<br />
be an austere bone-dry fino.<br />
Any white port on the rocks with a<br />
wedge of lemon is an equal crowdpleaser:<br />
spicy, velvety, zingy. Moscato<br />
d'Asti is a gorgeous, fruity,<br />
slightly effervescent, low-alcohol<br />
(five per cent) wine that can put a<br />
smile on the grimmest of grinches.<br />
And nothing's complete without a<br />
sparkling wine; just make sure it's an<br />
authentic Champagne-method wine<br />
(secondary bottle fermentation,<br />
rather than soda-pop style bubble injection).<br />
Spain's Segura Viudas<br />
(toasty teabiscuit) and Australia's<br />
Seaview Brut (crisp) are delightful<br />
and about one-third the price of their<br />
upscale (French) competitors.<br />
APPETIZERS<br />
Rich appetizersfrom ginger<br />
shrimps and feta fils to potato<br />
latkes and smoked chardemand<br />
versatile food-friendly wines. Any<br />
Ontario VQA Riesling, typically less<br />
than $15, is up to the job, as are<br />
those from Alsace (dry, despite the<br />
German-style bottle). A crisp Sauvignon<br />
Blanc is equally refreshing and<br />
versatile (and perfect with goat<br />
cheese). Les Baronnes Sancerre<br />
from Henri Bourgeois is the metric<br />
bar against which I measure all others,<br />
although I'm partial to New<br />
Zealand versions, ranging from<br />
steely gooseberry to wet-hay herbaceous.<br />
For a classy light red, try a<br />
Cru Beaujolais (one of the 10 top<br />
Gamay communes). Georges<br />
Duboeuf's Combes au Jacques<br />
(Beaujolais Villages classification) is<br />
a fine contender.<br />
AFTERS<br />
For traditional fruit cake, plum<br />
pudding, or saillen, any Ontario lateharvest<br />
Riesling, Vidal or Gewurztraminer<br />
will lend apple, tropical<br />
fruit and apricot notes, while Lustau's<br />
East India sherry will provide<br />
dried fruit, caramel and butterscotch<br />
flavours to trigger dangerously delicious<br />
explosions. And Walnut Brown<br />
sweet sherry from Williams and<br />
Humbert simply can't be trusted<br />
alone with your favourite dried<br />
fruits. Finally, with price tags to<br />
match their 10, 20, 30 or 40 years of<br />
oak aging, tawny ports offer elegant<br />
layers of dried fruit, butterscotch,<br />
toffee, licorice and orange peel. In<br />
fact, skip the dessert!<br />
Vintage (darker) port and blue<br />
cheese just love each other. The<br />
sweet spiciness of this fortified wine<br />
is a perfect foil for the creamy richness<br />
and saltiness of the cheese. Get<br />
the most expensive true "vintage"<br />
(bottled early to trap the flavours)<br />
that you can afford. Otherwise, at<br />
one-third the cost, opt for any "late<br />
bottled vintage," which neither needs<br />
nor benefits from bottle aging. (Who<br />
wants to wait, anyway?) Dark chocolate<br />
and port? In a word: "yup." In<br />
two words: "yum yum."<br />
Round things off with fresh walnuts,<br />
filberts, pecans and Brazil nuts<br />
paired with a dry, nutty oloroso sherry.<br />
Lustau's Don Nutio is as fine as<br />
they come. Zap some almonds until<br />
toasty warm and feel the afterglow as<br />
you sip. For a special treat, try the<br />
rare palo cortado sherry, halfway in<br />
style between a bone-dry fino and<br />
the more voluptuous oloroso. There<br />
is no prettieror more deliciousamber-coloured<br />
anything on the<br />
planet.<br />
<strong>Glebe</strong> resident Phil Nicholson is<br />
the co-founder, first president and<br />
now a governor of the National Capital<br />
Sommelier Guild and a former<br />
Ottawa Wine Person of the Year<br />
oP'edble Anne<br />
ortin<br />
One of Canada's Leading Portrait Photographers<br />
Nappy<br />
WO &rays<br />
From all of us at<br />
Von's<br />
14;41<br />
233-3277 232-2703<br />
The Perfect 3-foCiday Gift:<br />
Your Portrait Session at<br />
Hélène Anne Fortin's House of Photography<br />
In the <strong>Glebe</strong>, see Hélène Anne Fortin's portraits at <strong>Glebe</strong> Side Kids,<br />
Davidson's Jewellers, Berry's Pet Food; and the Wild Oat (to mid-<strong>December</strong>)<br />
www.hafortinphoto.ca 459.2161<br />
819 Bank Street (Fifth Avenue Court)<br />
Free Parking at Rear<br />
11<br />
744<br />
to all of you we're ce-lebrating 26 years in the <strong>Glebe</strong> during<br />
the holiday season. We look forward to seeing you over the<br />
holidays and wish you and your family a happy New Year!