The Concept of Aesthetic Intelligence of Textile Fabrics and their ...

Experimenting with the samples while on the loom produced effective and creative results as
the yarn composites could be exploited to their full potential. To achieve different surface
effects the tension of the warp was adjusted. As the samples could be manipulated whilst still
on the loom, the effect of the wire could be observed therefore, encouraging the design to
illuminate further.
As the fundamental consideration of the woven textile is the aesthetic, the application of the
shape memory textile is one where it will not be extensively handled, i.e. cushions, rugs, and
sofas. Suitable applications would be window treatments, partitions or wall hangings.
Textiles having the ability to alter in shape will have a significant and stimulating effect to an
interior space. Utilising a shape memory partition or wall hanging can convert the function
and essence of the interior from a formal workplace to a relaxed, calm and social atmosphere.
Visually the woven structure transmutes exposing the yarn composites and a dynamic design.
These applications would be on demand, as an electric current would be applied to invigorate
the textile. Furthermore, the same application can also participate in the environmental
conditions of a room when provoked by temperature. Consequently, if the temperature in a
room was below ambient the woven structure would evolve into a “closed” form and perform
as an insulator, allowing the heat to remain in the room. In contrast, if the temperature were
above ambient, the shape memory structure would ‘open’ to allow air to circulate freely
around the space keeping the room cool. As SMM can be stimulated by sunlight, this feature
can be exploited when applied for window treatments, thus adapting to its environment.
When a shape memory window treatment is programmed to be sensitive to sunlight the
woven structure opens to allow light to enter the room during the day and close when night
falls. Or/in addition, the woven structure was programmed to close to reduce glare in the
room if excessive sunlight was applied onto the textiles.
These textiles would be consummate when part of an intelligent network in an interior space.
Shape memory textiles offers smart interiors and standard interiors additional benefits, such
as performing as a decorative feature as well as a functional textile. Unlike conventional
static textiles, smart textiles have the competence to react and adjust to the environmental
conditions along with modify the function of the space whilst being aesthetically pleasing.
4.2 The Knit Structure for Fashion Apparel
An in-depth understanding of the technical aspects and requirements of the knitting process
would need to take precedence in order not to compromise the design. Flyer pay-off is the
major contributory factor to the problem of knitting with wire. It occurs when the yarn is
drawn off the supply package and threaded into the knitting machine and continues to be a
problem throughout the knitting process. Its causes are twofold; the first, is wires ability to
hold shape; the second is the “stick/slip/stick” phenomenon. As the wire is drawn from the
package, it maintains the circular shape of that package. This spiral configuration is only
partly drawn out as the wire goes through the tension feeds of the machine.
The “stick/slip/stick” phenomenon, is when the wire intermittently sticks as it is delivered
from the package, through the tension feeds, consequently, the tension in the wire increases.
The force applied to the yarn as the cam carriage is taken across the needle bed produces a
sudden release of tension. This release results in the wire springing from the package, in long
spiral lengths. The yarn twists on itself, causing kinks to develop along the length of the wire.
As a result, obtaining an even tension throughout the knitting process is difficult. Flyer pay-
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