The Concept of Aesthetic Intelligence of Textile Fabrics and their ...

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Figure 1 Janet Emmanuel (2002) Figure 2 Reiko Sudo, Stainless Steel Emboss (1992) Acoustic Shadows, Industrial Woven and splatter-plated polyester non-woven, paper, string and Textiles and new Technology 2010 ultrasound, The Textile Book The changing life of the consumer has demanded improvements of technology to enhance their lifestyles. Technology is becoming less invasive and with an increased emphasis on its aesthetic appeal. Within in the world of textile research, conductive fibre technology has become an integral part of the development of wearable technology. Companies including Philips Design, WRONZ in collaboration with Paratech Ltd and Starlab are all involved in the development of this area.[7,8,9,10] Other companies such as Toyobo, Toray Group USA, Welbeck, and DuPont are all developing advanced fibre technology. [11,12,13,14] These garments and textiles are still dominated by technology and function. The design and aesthetics are created around these factors. It has always been the case however, that the overriding appeal of a garment or textile has been its aesthetics. Despite the efforts of those designers working with unconventional techniques, design work based on smart or intelligent textiles using SMM is scarce and only used for technical solutions. Our research is based on how we can engineer new textile designs by manipulating shape memory technology. The research involves two strands, the first, knitted textile for fashion; the second, woven interior textiles specifically for window treatments and partitions and these will be elaborated on, later in the paper. SMM’s have been developed principally for biomedical and engineering applications. These applications include micro-actuators, vascular stents, orthodontic archwires and aerospace. More recent developments include diverse areas such as eyewear, underwire bras, golf clubs, robotics and sculpture. Mitsubishi Heavy Industries have produced their own range of active sports clothing called “Diaplex”.[18] This is created by laminating an SMP between two layers of fabric, creating a membrane. It can simultaneously be waterproof, windproof and breathable. The membrane works by applying the Micro-Brownian motion, which is a thermal vibration.[19,20] The Diaplex membrane is stimulated when the temperature rises above the predetermined temperature. Due to the Micro-Brownian motion, micro-pores are created in the polymer membrane, which allows perspiration and body heat to escape. 459
Corpo Nove, a fashion house in Florence, Italy, have designed and produced a shirt using SMA fibres.[21,22] These fibres are interspersed with nylon when the fabric is woven. The novelty of the shape memory shirt is that it is programmed to shorten its sleeves when the temperature increases. The shirt does not require ironing, as heat will stimulate the SMA fibres, enabling the shirt to return to its original shape. 2 Shape Memory Materials and their Principles Shape memory materials (SMM) are adaptive temperature sensitive materials, which have the ability to return to a pre-programmed shape when stimulated.[15,16] There are a variety of stimuli that can be applied such as an electric current, solar energy, magnetic energy and heat generated by changes in body temperature. These materials come in two forms, shape memory alloy (SMA) and shape memory polymer (SMP). SMA can exhibit a strain of up to 8%, whereas SMP can extend up to 200%. The recovery of SMA is 100% however, SMP does not always fully recover its original form. The crystal lattice structure of the SMA is the mechanical property that allows the shape memory effect (SME) to take place. This is known as the martensitic phase transformation (MPT), (Figure 3). This consists of two stable phases, a low temperature phase called martensite and a high temperature phase called austenite. During the martensite phase the material can be deformed into its prescribed shape however, it can recover to its original shape by the reverse transformation upon heating to a critical temperature called the reverse transformation temperature (A s ). Parent phase Martensite Parent phase Figure 3 Martensitic Phase Transformation Through a repeated process of heating and rapid quenching, the relationship between the two different crystal structures is set. Once the process has been completed, the SMA will retain its new shape. During martensite the SMA can be deformed or re-shaped but it will always return to original shape when heated. SMA also exhibits superelasticity (SE), which is a pseudoelasticity that occurs above A s . Deformation occurs when a small force or load is applied. When the force is unloaded, the material will automatically return to its original form. Superelasticity occurs without assistance of heat. There is a range of different alloy compounds that exhibit the SME, these include nickeltitanium-copper (Ni-Ti-Cu), copper-zinc-aluminium (Cu-Zn-Al). However, the most extensively used is nickel-titanium (Ni-Ti) compound. [17] This is due to its superiority in terms of transformation, recovery and biocompatibility. NiTi alloy has been selected for the development of this research. 3 Engineering Aesthetic Intelligence into Textiles Design inspiration traditionally comes from a visual motif, comprising colour, form, texture and pattern. In this research however, the inspiration comes from the SMM and its 460
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