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October - Stylist and Salon Newspapers

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In this issue...<br />

3<br />

6<br />

8<br />

Beauty Business Buzz<br />

With so much diversity out there,<br />

what do you do to tap into a<br />

wider market? Charlene Abretske<br />

offers suggestions like allowing<br />

your clients access to universal<br />

treatments, specializing <strong>and</strong><br />

branching out.<br />

Better Business<br />

Neil Ducoff discusses<br />

performance expectations from<br />

leaders that are out of sync with<br />

capabilities <strong>and</strong> strengths of<br />

employees.<br />

Off the Top<br />

Kimberly Johnson shares messages<br />

that may not always be<br />

politically correct in her new<br />

column “Off the Top”. However,<br />

some of her experiences may<br />

give the reader comfort to realize<br />

that they are not the first who has<br />

struggled to h<strong>and</strong>le a mistake, or<br />

even a success, in a graceful way.<br />

Beauty Business Buzz . . . . . . . . . . 3<br />

Blue Highways . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4<br />

Better Business . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6<br />

The Nail Extension . . . . . . . . . . . . 7<br />

Off the Top. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8<br />

Marketing Straightening Services . . 9<br />

Esthetic Endeavors . . . . . . . . . . 10<br />

How to Care for Curly Hair . . . . . . 12<br />

Fat Profits for Thinning Hair . . . . . 12<br />

Ohio Cosmetology News. . . . . . . 14<br />

The Mane Objective. . . . . . . . . . 15<br />

Classifieds . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16-17<br />

Calendar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18<br />

What’s New in the Market . . . . . . 19<br />

On the cover...<br />

J Beverly Hills<br />

www.jbeverlyhills.com<br />

Texture Has Many Colors<br />

Blue Highways<br />

Jerry Tyler<br />

Diversity in the Multicultural Market<br />

When I think of all the advances in the<br />

multicultural market over the last few years,<br />

one word seems to st<strong>and</strong> out more than others:<br />

texture.<br />

No other word better defines the needs<br />

<strong>and</strong> challenges facing this segment of our<br />

industry.<br />

Almost every aspect of the multicultural<br />

market revolves around texture; either the<br />

desire to embrace <strong>and</strong> enhance it or the desire<br />

to convert it to a texture that is more desirable<br />

to the wearer.<br />

Both of these driving forces have a major<br />

impact on the market as a whole. As progressive<br />

industry professionals, we need to<br />

underst<strong>and</strong> these needs <strong>and</strong> desires, both as a<br />

means to stay relevant in our ever-exp<strong>and</strong>ing<br />

industry <strong>and</strong> as a matter of cultural awareness.<br />

Many in the market who have long dealt<br />

with the desire to alter the natural texture<br />

of their hair have endured heat (through<br />

thermal conversion) <strong>and</strong> strong chemicals.<br />

With the current attention focusing on a<br />

more natural <strong>and</strong> holistic lifestyle, many are<br />

going back to embracing their natural texture<br />

by using organic products, <strong>and</strong> using timeless<br />

techniques to create braids, locks <strong>and</strong> twists.<br />

These methods celebrate their cultural heritage,<br />

as many of these techniques have been<br />

h<strong>and</strong>ed down, mother to daughter, aunt to<br />

niece <strong>and</strong> friend to friend.<br />

This shift is evident in many products<br />

that have now gone back to nature to encourage<br />

hair <strong>and</strong> scalp care, prevent hair loss <strong>and</strong><br />

promote hair growth. Some industry leaders<br />

have even gone back generations to their relatives’<br />

home prescriptions that used what was<br />

available in the kitchen. Some used natural<br />

herbs <strong>and</strong> emulsions to create hair <strong>and</strong> scalp<br />

products that cleanse <strong>and</strong> condition naturally,<br />

many coming from their cultural ancestors.<br />

In generations past, the use of natural oils<br />

<strong>and</strong> tonics to dress the hair was common, <strong>and</strong><br />

promoted shine <strong>and</strong> manageability.<br />

Braiding is the oldest form of hairdressing.<br />

It is used as a foundation for attaching<br />

hair with an alternative texture, as well as in<br />

natural hairstyling. In its natural state, there is<br />

nothing more appealing or beautiful as braiding<br />

as an art form.<br />

On the other side, when not applied with<br />

care <strong>and</strong> proper tension, braiding has a huge<br />

potential to create long-term hair loss <strong>and</strong><br />

scalp damage. There is even a medical term<br />

for hair loss due to improper braiding, called<br />

“Traction Alopecia.”<br />

Next to hair loss from medical conditions,<br />

Traction Alopecia has been recognized as the<br />

primary source of premature hair loss in the<br />

multicultural market. Faced with this challenge,<br />

many industry leaders are using modern<br />

technology, natural prescriptives <strong>and</strong> even<br />

diet <strong>and</strong> mineral supplements to re-grow lost<br />

hair. This has made Trichology, the study of the<br />

health of hair <strong>and</strong> scalp, the fastest exp<strong>and</strong>ing<br />

area in this market segment, with many<br />

working to create alternative solutions to the<br />

challenges of hair loss.<br />

The other part of the multicultural market<br />

that is ever exp<strong>and</strong>ing is the component<br />

that focuses on hair additions <strong>and</strong> enhancement.<br />

This is where the client wants to<br />

convert their natural hair to another texture,<br />

length or even color through the addition of<br />

added-on hair.<br />

Again, when braiding is used as a foundation<br />

for attachment, great care must be taken<br />

to alleviate stress <strong>and</strong> prevent hair loss by<br />

creating a low or no tension base for securing<br />

the hair. In addition, it is important to employ<br />

braiding strategies that allow the scalp to<br />

breathe <strong>and</strong> receive cleansers <strong>and</strong> tonics, all of<br />

which are crucial to promoting <strong>and</strong> protecting<br />

scalp health during the duration of the<br />

hair enhancement.<br />

There is an ever-increasing dem<strong>and</strong> for<br />

hair to be provided for weaves, extensions<br />

<strong>and</strong> lace front wigs, as well as for non-surgical<br />

hair replacement. This dem<strong>and</strong> necessitates<br />

increased dialogue <strong>and</strong> honest communication<br />

with hair suppliers, especially since the<br />

consumer purchases much of the hair in the<br />

multicultural market <strong>and</strong> then gives it to the<br />

industry professional for attachment.<br />

This can lead to unethical practices, with<br />

the unwary purchaser buying some hair not<br />

meeting the state st<strong>and</strong>ards which can result in<br />

a negative outcome for the consumer, either<br />

short term or long term. The consumer, not<br />

the professional, purchases approximately 70<br />

– 80 percent of the hair sold in the multicultural<br />

market. Therefore, consumer education<br />

<strong>and</strong> protection should be at the forefront in<br />

order to maintain safe practice st<strong>and</strong>ards where<br />

hair enhancement is involved.<br />

With the constant evolution <strong>and</strong> growth<br />

in the multicultural market, there are untold<br />

opportunities that await us as industry professionals.<br />

These opportunities will continue<br />

to provide outlets for creative expression, as<br />

well as provide solutions for this wonderful<br />

component of the industry marketplace.<br />

Jerry Tyler’s column Blue Highways is his “Road Less Traveled” perspective<br />

on the solutions <strong>and</strong> challenges facing the beauty industry. Jerry Tyler has<br />

been a stylist since 1975 serving as the former artistic director for Vidal Sassoon<br />

Academy <strong>and</strong> currently as Director of Education for Carlton Hair salons.<br />

He is also a licensed cosmetology instructor <strong>and</strong> has served as President of<br />

the California State Board of Barbering <strong>and</strong> Cosmetology.<br />

READ IT! SAVE IT! PRINT IT! NOW AVAILABLE ONLINE!<br />

View this article <strong>and</strong> more at www.stylistnewspapers.com<br />

Ohio <strong>Stylist</strong> & <strong>Salon</strong><br />

Volume 11, Number 10, Issue 130<br />

<strong>October</strong> 15 - November 15, 2010<br />

Published monthly by<br />

Holl<strong>and</strong> Graphics, Inc.<br />

1750 SW Skyline Blvd., Suite 24<br />

Portl<strong>and</strong> OR 97221<br />

Toll-free (888) 297-7010<br />

or (503) 297-7010<br />

Fax (503) 297-7022<br />

E-mail: editor@stylistnewspapers.com<br />

Web site: www.stylistnewspapers.com<br />

Publisher<br />

Holl<strong>and</strong> Graphics, Inc.<br />

Managing Editor<br />

Lisa Kind<br />

Production Manager Joel Holl<strong>and</strong><br />

Advertising Director Marcy Avenson<br />

Classified Sales<br />

Kelly Smith<br />

Contributing Writers:<br />

Judy Culp, Jerry Tyler, Charlene Abretske,<br />

Neil Ducoff, Jaime Schrabeck, Marco Pelusi,<br />

Steve Sleeper, Michelle Laxson, Rebekah Vigil,<br />

Cindy Van Steel<strong>and</strong>t, Craig Black<br />

Ohio State Board of Cosmetology<br />

Kevin L. Miller, Executive Director<br />

OHIO STYLIST & SALON is mailed free of charge<br />

to licensed salons, booth renters <strong>and</strong> beauty schools<br />

in Ohio. Circulation is restricted to members of the<br />

beauty <strong>and</strong> barber profession, its suppliers <strong>and</strong> students.<br />

CONTRIBUTIONS OF PHOTOS, ARTICLES, etc.,<br />

are welcome. Payment offered only when arrangements<br />

are made in writing in advance with the editor/<br />

publisher.<br />

ALL MATERIAL © 2010 by Holl<strong>and</strong> Graphics, Inc.<br />

<strong>and</strong>/or the bylined authors or photographers. No part<br />

of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a<br />

retrieval system, or transmitted, in any form, or by any<br />

means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording<br />

or otherwise, without the prior permission of the<br />

publisher.<br />

OPINIONS AND ENDORSEMENTS herein are the<br />

sole responsibility of the writers or advertisers <strong>and</strong> do<br />

not necessarily represent the opinions of the publisher<br />

or the Ohio State Board of Cosmetology. Publication<br />

of advertising contained herein does not constitute<br />

endorsement. Columns are the opinions of the writers<br />

<strong>and</strong> not those of the publisher. Ohio <strong>Stylist</strong> & <strong>Salon</strong> assumes<br />

no responsibility for the claims of any advertiser<br />

in their paid advertising nor in the promotional material<br />

they provide either orally or in writing. Advertising<br />

does not imply that the paper will provide any editorial<br />

coverage, photos, calendar mention, or any other space<br />

or consideration other than actual space purchased. All<br />

advertising must be paid in advance of publication in<br />

lieu of prior arrangements. Invoices paid after terms<br />

will be subject to a 2.5% per month service charge.<br />

Delinquent invoices may be subject to a h<strong>and</strong>ling fee<br />

of 25%. Published rates are net. Agencies add 15% for<br />

gross cost. No Agency discounts. In the event a suit or<br />

action is brought to collect amounts due Ohio <strong>Stylist</strong> &<br />

<strong>Salon</strong> shall be entitled to recover attorney fees <strong>and</strong> costs<br />

incurred.<br />

ADDITIONAL OR OUT-OF-STATE SUBSCRIP-<br />

TIONS: For a one year subscription, send name,<br />

address <strong>and</strong> zip with check for $20 payable to HOL-<br />

LAND GRAPHICS, INC. to Subscriptions, Ohio <strong>Stylist</strong><br />

& <strong>Salon</strong>, 1750 SW Skyline Blvd., Suite 24, Portl<strong>and</strong>,<br />

OR 97221. Address changes require old mailing label.<br />

| OCTOBER 2010 | OHIO STYLIST & SALON

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