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Petzl Sport 2012 Catalog

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MOUNTAINEERING<br />

Approaching a glacier as a party of two<br />

Falling into a crevasse is one of the major risks when<br />

approaching a glacier. Carrying hauling equipment and<br />

knowing hauling techniques is an essential precaution.<br />

But in the case of a partner falling into a crevasse, the fall<br />

must first be stopped without falling in yourself. With two,<br />

one climber alone will have to be the counter-weight. It is<br />

therefore important to start with all the chances on your<br />

side.<br />

Tie-in distance<br />

The two climbers tie in at each end of the rope. The tie-in<br />

distance is then adjusted with their tied off chest coils. The<br />

greater the probability of falling into a crevasse, the greater<br />

the tie-in distance between the climbers should be. Each<br />

team member must keep enough rope for setting up a hauling<br />

system.<br />

Knots for greater friction in soft snow<br />

Tie knots every 2 m along the rope (figure eight, overhand,<br />

butterfly...) The friction of the knots in the snow and over the lip<br />

of the crevasse helps to brake the fall.<br />

2 m<br />

15 m 30 m<br />

Information is non-exhaustive. Refer to the other pages as well as to the user instructions and technical manuals. Technical training is essential.<br />

© Boris Dufour<br />

22<br />

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