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B8 A4/S4 Installation Guide - STaSIS

B8 A4/S4 Installation Guide - STaSIS

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STāSIS Engineering<br />

Signature Series Vehicles<br />

<strong>B8</strong> <strong>A4</strong>/<strong>S4</strong> <strong>Installation</strong> <strong>Guide</strong>lines


Table of Contents<br />

Page<br />

Torque specs 3<br />

Suspension<br />

Front and Rear Suspension, Touring 4<br />

Front and Rear Suspension, Challenge 12<br />

Rear Anti-Roll Bar 25<br />

Differential<br />

Manual Transmission Center<br />

Differential<br />

30<br />

Exhaust 35<br />

Exhaust Kit<br />

Braking<br />

Monobloc Brake Kit 38<br />

Bed-In Procedure 43<br />

Post <strong>Installation</strong> Checklist 44<br />

Page 2 of 44


<strong>B8</strong> <strong>A4</strong>/<strong>S4</strong> TORQUE VALUES<br />

Suspension and Wheels<br />

Front damper to upper mount<br />

37 ft-lbs<br />

Front damper upper mount to body<br />

56 ft-lbs<br />

Front damper fork pinch bolt 30 ft-lbs +<br />

180º<br />

Front damper fork to lower link<br />

66 ft-lbs<br />

Upper link pinch bolt<br />

29 ft-lbs<br />

Rear damper to upper mount<br />

26 ft-lbs<br />

Rear damper upper mount to body<br />

37 ft-lbs<br />

Rear damper to upright<br />

111 ft-lbs<br />

Rear sway bar link to lower control arm<br />

30 ft-lbs<br />

Rear sway bar link to sway bar<br />

30 ft-lbs<br />

Rear sway bar mounts<br />

19 ft-lbs<br />

Wheel spacer bolts<br />

90 ft-lbs<br />

Wheel lug bolts<br />

90 ft-lbs<br />

Brakes<br />

Rotor set screw<br />

48 in-lbs<br />

<strong>STaSIS</strong> Challenge bracket to upright<br />

92 ft-lbs<br />

<strong>STaSIS</strong> Challenge caliper to bracket<br />

70 ft-lbs<br />

Brake line to caliper<br />

14 ft-lbs<br />

Exhaust<br />

Down pipe to mid pipe slip clamp<br />

17 ft-lbs<br />

Hangers to body<br />

17 ft-lbs<br />

Mufflers to mid pipe<br />

17 ft-lbs<br />

Muffler adjustment bracket<br />

17 ft-lbs<br />

Center Diff<br />

Torsen housing to transmission (short bolts) 7 ft-lbs +<br />

90º<br />

Torsen housing to transmission (long bolts)<br />

18 ft-lbs<br />

Tunnel crossmember to transmission mount<br />

15 ft-lbs<br />

Tunnel crossmember to body<br />

41 ft-lbs<br />

Driveshaft to output flange<br />

30 ft-lbs<br />

Drive shaft heat shield<br />

18 ft-lbs<br />

Tansmission drain plug<br />

30 ft-lbs<br />

Page 3 of 44


<strong>A4</strong>/<strong>S4</strong> Suspension, Touring<br />

Touring Suspension Kit<br />

Parts List<br />

Qty Description Part Number<br />

1 Stasis Touring Spring Kit SP04.0005.00<br />

Special Tools Required<br />

Qty Description Part Number<br />

1 Torque Wrench VAG 1331<br />

1 Torque Wrench VAG 1332<br />

1 Engine/transmission jack VAG 1383 A<br />

1 Spring Compressor VAG 1752/1<br />

1 Spring holder VAG 1752/7<br />

1 Rear Spring Compressor VAS 6274<br />

1 Supplementary Set VAS 6274/10<br />

1 Hollow Piston Cylinder VAS 6179<br />

1 Spreader 3424<br />

1 Tensioning strap T10038<br />

Please read ALL instructions prior to attempting installation. Please torque all fasteners to<br />

specifications.<br />

Page 4 of 44


Front Removal and Install<br />

1 Before removing any parts, park the car on a secure, stable, and level surface. Remove wheel trim; pull<br />

trim cap off light-alloy wheels (using puller in vehicle tool kit) and loosen (but do not remove) the wheel lug<br />

nuts. Jack the vehicle up, and place the car on four stable jack stands or use a professional vehicle lift. We<br />

recommend having two people available for certain steps of the installation.<br />

2 Remove wheels<br />

3 Before removing left suspension<br />

strut, remove headlight range<br />

control link from track control link.<br />

(2009 and older)<br />

4 Remove the fastener and plastic<br />

nut on the inside of the fender lip.<br />

This is to provide additional<br />

clearance for the tires. The clip<br />

will not be reinstalled.<br />

5 Remove pinch bolt for upper<br />

control arms. Remove both<br />

joint pins in upper control<br />

arms from wheel bearing<br />

housing. The slits in wheel<br />

bearing housing must not be<br />

widened using a chisel or<br />

similar tool!<br />

Page 5 of 44


6 Disconnect the bolt that connects<br />

the swaybar link to the damper<br />

fork. Bolt can remain on swaybar<br />

link.<br />

7 Remove bolts that connect<br />

damper fork to lower link and<br />

damper. Use spreader (Audi Tool<br />

# 3424 or equivalent) to remove<br />

fork from damper. Pull bearing<br />

housing down to gain enough<br />

clearance to remove fork.<br />

8 Perform these steps on both<br />

sides of the car and then open<br />

the front hood to reach the bolts<br />

that hold the upper mount.<br />

9<br />

Unclip plenum chamber covers-1<br />

& 3 - and remove them.<br />

Page 6 of 44


10 Remove nut - 1 - . Remove filler<br />

neck - 3 - with filler tube from<br />

washer fluid reservoir and body<br />

opening - arrow B - .<br />

11 Remove nuts - arrows - , move<br />

coolant reservoir upward and lay<br />

it aside to access the mounting<br />

bolt.<br />

Do not disconnect any coolant<br />

lines, reservoir does not have to<br />

be removed.<br />

12 Remove bolts - arrows - and<br />

remove suspension strut with the<br />

mounting bracket.<br />

Remove similar bolts from<br />

passenger side and remove<br />

passenger side suspension strut<br />

with the mounting bracket.<br />

13 Remove OEM damper and spring<br />

from upper mount.<br />

Page 7 of 44


14 Remove OEM bumpstop and trim the large<br />

end of the bumpstop to achieve an overall<br />

length of –<br />

2 ¾ inch<br />

**NOTE**<br />

If bump stop length within ¼” of 2 ¾”, no<br />

need to modify<br />

15 Reinstall bumpstop and replace the OEM<br />

spring with the Stasis supplied spring.<br />

*Note*- Bumpstop will no longer capture<br />

on the damper shaft and will sit on the<br />

damper body.<br />

16 Reassemble damper assembly to the<br />

upper mount and reinstall complete<br />

assembly. <strong>Installation</strong> is the reverse of the<br />

removal steps.<br />

*Note*- Bonded rubber suspension<br />

bushings can only be turned to a limited<br />

extent. All mounting bolts of the<br />

suspension links must only be tightened<br />

when the suspension is compressed to the<br />

curb weight position.<br />

Page 8 of 44


Rear Removal and <strong>Installation</strong><br />

1 Remove wheel<br />

2 Remove cover over lower damper bolt, then<br />

remove lower damper bolt (21 mm).<br />

Remove the two fender liner clips one either side<br />

of the damper (#2) by gently prying upwards on<br />

the open end of the clips.<br />

Pushing the fender liner out of the way, remove<br />

upper damper bolts (#1 16 mm) and remove the<br />

damper by dropping straight down through the<br />

opening in the lower control arm.<br />

**<strong>S4</strong> vehicle**<br />

Remove ride sensor lever arm to prevent<br />

damage. Located on rear control arm, driver’s<br />

side.<br />

*Make sure to reconnect during installation*<br />

Page 9 of 44


3 Remove upper mount from damper and set<br />

aside.<br />

4 Remove OEM bumpstop and trim the large end<br />

of the bumpstop to achieve an overall length of –<br />

4 3/8 inch<br />

**Note**<br />

If bump stop length within ¼” of 2 ¾”, no need to<br />

modify<br />

5 Remove rear coil springs with spring compressor<br />

tool VAS 6274 and VAS 6274/10.<br />

Page 10 of 44


6 Install <strong>STaSIS</strong> rear spring with the spring<br />

compressor. Progressive coils towards the top.<br />

7 Install damper assembly and torque to:<br />

Upper bolt: 37 ft-lbs<br />

Lower bolt: 111 ft-lb<br />

Note –<br />

Bonded rubber suspension bushings can only be<br />

turned to a limited extent. The mounting bolts of<br />

the suspension links must only be tightened<br />

when the suspension is compressed to the curb<br />

weight position.<br />

8 Install wheels and tighten. Lower the car onto its wheels and torque all wheel lug bolts to the recommended<br />

torque.<br />

Note: Check wheel alignment after suspension installation<br />

Page 11 of 44


<strong>A4</strong>/<strong>S4</strong> Suspension, Challenge<br />

SL Suspension Kit<br />

Parts List<br />

Qty Description Part Number<br />

2 Front Damper <strong>B8</strong> <strong>A4</strong> SA02.2501.00<br />

2 Rear Damper <strong>B8</strong> <strong>A4</strong> SA02.2511.00<br />

2 Front Springs SP03.1070.00<br />

2 Front Upper Spring Mount SA10.0007.01<br />

2 Rear Springs SP02.6040.00<br />

2 Rear Spring Tenders SP03.0003.00<br />

2 Rear Spring Tender Coupler SP03.0002.00<br />

2 Rear Perch Male SA01.3018.00<br />

2 Rear Perch Female SA01.3019.00<br />

2 UHMWPE Spring Washer SA10.0001.00<br />

2 Rear Spring Perch Spacer SA02.3510.00<br />

2 Perch Wrench SA01.3001.00<br />

2 Front Nylock Nut M12 HA03.0107.00<br />

2 Rear Nylock Nut M10 HA03.0120.00<br />

2 Rear Spacer Bolt M8 HA01.0806.00<br />

2 Rear Spacer Washer M8 HA02.0802.00<br />

Special Tools Required<br />

Qty Description Part Number<br />

1 Torque Wrench VAG 1331<br />

1 Torque Wrench VAG 1332<br />

1 Engine/transmission jack VAG 1383 A<br />

1 Spring Compressor VAG 1752/1<br />

1 Spring holder VAG 1752/7<br />

1 Rear Spring Compressor VAS 6274<br />

1 Supplementary Set VAS 6274/10<br />

1 Hollow Piston Cylinder VAS 6179<br />

1 Spreader 3424<br />

1 Tensioning strap T10038<br />

Please read ALL instructions prior to attempting installation. Please torque all fasteners to<br />

specifications.<br />

Page 12 of 44


Front Removal<br />

1 Before removing any parts, park the car on a secure, stable, and level surface. Remove wheel trim; pull<br />

trim cap off light-alloy wheels (using puller in vehicle tool kit) and loosen (but do not remove) the wheel lug<br />

nuts. Jack the vehicle up, and place the car on four stable jack stands or use a professional vehicle lift. We<br />

recommend having two people available for certain steps of the installation.<br />

2 Remove wheels<br />

3 Before removing left suspension<br />

strut, remove headlight range<br />

control link from track control link.<br />

4 Remove the fastener and plastic<br />

nut on the inside of the fender lip.<br />

This is to provide additional<br />

clearance for the tires. The clip<br />

will not be reinstalled.<br />

5 Remove pinch bolt for upper<br />

control arms. Remove both<br />

joint pins in upper control<br />

arms from the wheel bearing<br />

housing. The slits in the<br />

wheel bearing housing must<br />

not be widened using a chisel<br />

or similar tool! This can<br />

cause the pinch arms to<br />

crack. If the control arm pins<br />

are stuck in the housing, tap<br />

lightly with a rubber mallet on<br />

the bottom of the control<br />

arms.<br />

Page 13 of 44


6 Disconnect the bolt that connects<br />

the swaybar link to the damper<br />

fork. Bolt can remain on swaybar<br />

link.<br />

7 Remove bolts that connect<br />

damper fork to lower link and<br />

damper. Use spreader (Audi Tool<br />

# 3424 or equivalent) to remove<br />

fork from damper. Pull bearing<br />

housing down to gain enough<br />

clearance to remove fork.<br />

8 Perform these steps on both<br />

sides of the car and then open<br />

the front hood to reach the bolts<br />

that hold the upper mount.<br />

9<br />

Unclip plenum chamber covers-1<br />

& 3 - and remove them.<br />

Page 14 of 44


10 Remove nut - 1 - . Remove filler<br />

neck - 3 - with filler tube from<br />

washer fluid reservoir and body<br />

opening - arrow B - .<br />

11 Remove nuts - arrows - , move<br />

coolant reservoir upward and lay<br />

it aside to access the mounting<br />

bolt.<br />

Do not disconnect any coolant<br />

lines, reservoir does not have to<br />

be removed.<br />

12 Remove bolts - arrows - and<br />

remove suspension strut with the<br />

mounting bracket.<br />

13 Remove OEM damper and spring<br />

from upper mount.<br />

Note: You will not reuse the OEM<br />

bumpstop, the thick washer, and<br />

the nylock nut that sits on top of<br />

the damper shaft.<br />

Page 15 of 44


14 Remove swaged aluminum upper<br />

spring seat retainer. Use a small<br />

chisel and hammer to bend over<br />

the swaged lip. A die grinder can<br />

also be used to grind the lip off of<br />

the center of the aluminum<br />

retainer.<br />

15 Install spring with delrin upper<br />

mount onto the <strong>STaSIS</strong> damper.<br />

Install upper cradle and rubber<br />

upper mount onto the damper<br />

assembly. Hold upper damper<br />

pin in between the cradle and<br />

mount with a wrench while<br />

tightening the nut for the damper<br />

pin to the rubber upper mount.<br />

Tighten nylock nut to 37 ft-lbs.<br />

CAUTION – DO NOT grab the<br />

damper shaft with any tools while<br />

tightening the nylock nut.<br />

NOTE – Spring assembly will be<br />

loose at preset perch height. This<br />

is normal and will get loaded once<br />

installed in the vehicle.<br />

Page 16 of 44


16 <strong>Installation</strong> is the reverse of<br />

removal.<br />

Once the damper is installed<br />

check that the spring perch is set<br />

at the proper installed height, as<br />

shown in the picture. The<br />

Dimension should be 76mm from<br />

the top of the cylinder head<br />

(yellow mark) to the bottom of the<br />

locking coil ring.<br />

Before compressing the<br />

suspension, confirm that the<br />

upper urethane spring mounts are<br />

properly seated on the springs,<br />

the springs will self center onto<br />

the cradle once the suspension is<br />

compressed.<br />

Note: Bonded rubber suspension<br />

bushings can only be turned to a<br />

limited extent. All mounting bolts<br />

of the suspension links must only<br />

be tightened when the<br />

suspension is compressed to the<br />

curb weight position. This can be<br />

done by jacking up the wheel<br />

while the car is on the lift.<br />

17 Install Wheel and tighten<br />

Note – do not fully tighten bolts<br />

until car is at ride height.<br />

Page 17 of 44


Rear Removal<br />

1 Remove wheel<br />

2 Remove upper damper bolts. Then<br />

remove lower damper bolt and<br />

remove damper.<br />

Note: Discard the lower bolt cover.<br />

It will not be reused.<br />

*<strong>S4</strong> Vehicle*<br />

Remove ride sensor lever arm to<br />

prevent damage. Located on rear<br />

control arm, driver’s side.<br />

*Make sure to reconnect during<br />

installation*<br />

Page 18 of 44


3 Remove upper mount from OEM<br />

damper and set aside.<br />

Note: It will be reused when<br />

installing the <strong>STaSIS</strong> damper.<br />

4 Insert pry bar between upright and<br />

lower control arm (see picture) and<br />

push down to relieve tension from<br />

spring. You may need assistance to<br />

remove the spring while you are<br />

pushing the suspension down.<br />

5 Remove the OEM lower rubber<br />

spring mount, it will not be reused.<br />

Note: You may remove the stone<br />

guard to make it easier to make<br />

height adjustment, however this is<br />

not a requirement.<br />

Page 19 of 44


Rear <strong>Installation</strong><br />

6 Install <strong>STaSIS</strong> lower spring perch<br />

onto lower control arm and secure<br />

with the supplied bolt.<br />

Note: Check that the perch is set<br />

to the proper installed height. As<br />

shown in the picture below.<br />

The dimension should be 64mm<br />

from the bottom of the rear spring<br />

perch spacer to the spring seat<br />

(yellow mark). DO NOT include<br />

the UHMWPE washer thickness<br />

in the measurement.<br />

Page 20 of 44


7 Install <strong>STaSIS</strong> spring and OEM<br />

upper rubber mount. Earlier kits<br />

include a tender spring with a<br />

coupler on top of the main spring.<br />

Note: You will have to use a pry<br />

bar in the same manner used to<br />

remove the OEM spring<br />

8 Install the OEM upper damper<br />

mount onto the <strong>STaSIS</strong> damper.<br />

Grab cylinder head with a wrench<br />

and tighten nylock nut to 37 ft-lbs.<br />

9 Install damper assembly and<br />

torque to:<br />

Upper bolt: 37 ft-lbs<br />

Lower bolt: 111 ft-lb, longer bolt<br />

spacer goes against the upright,<br />

short spacer between the bolt<br />

head and damper end eye.<br />

Note –<br />

Bonded rubber suspension<br />

bushings can only be turned to a<br />

limited extent. The mounting<br />

bolts of the suspension links must<br />

only be tightened when the<br />

suspension is compressed to the<br />

curb weight position. This can be<br />

done by jacking up the wheel<br />

while the car is on the lift.<br />

Page 21 of 44


10 Install wheels and tighten. Lower the car onto its wheels and torque all wheel lug bolts to the<br />

recommended torque.<br />

Check ride height – See next page<br />

<strong>STaSIS</strong> recommended ride heights-<br />

Front - 13 1/2” from the center of the wheel to the fender lip<br />

Rear - 13 3/8” from the center of the wheel to the fender lip<br />

Note: Check wheel alignment after suspension installation<br />

Rev. 1 11/2/08<br />

Page 22 of 44


<strong>STaSIS</strong> Signature Line Ride Height Adjustment<br />

Ride height inspection and adjustment procedure:<br />

1. After completing installation of the kit, set the vehicle on the ground and drive the car around the block<br />

to settle the suspension. To take ride height measurements MAKE SURE THE VEHICLE IS PARKED<br />

ON A LEVEL SURFACE. VERY IMPORTANT!<br />

2. Measure the ride height of the vehicle at four points for future reference. Measure from the center of the<br />

wheels to the bottom of the fender lip.<br />

3. If you are pleased with this ride height then you are done, save the measurements for future reference.<br />

If not continue to step 4.<br />

4. Calculate the difference between the actual ride height and the ride height you would like the car to sit<br />

at for the right front wheel. For optimum handling we recommend this be done with the driver in the car<br />

and ¾ of a tank of fuel. We recommend that the distance between the center of the wheels and the<br />

bottom of the fender lip is not set below 13.0 inches. The suspension is operating too close to its<br />

maximum bump travel and handling can be negatively impacted.<br />

5. The ratio between the front shock body motion and wheel motion is about 0.65 to 1 and the rear is 0.80<br />

to 1. This means that the wheel travels about 1 inch for every 0.65 inches of shock body travel on the<br />

front and 0.80 inches of spring travel on the rear. Therefore, for example, if you wanted to lower the car<br />

½ inch from its current ride height at the right front wheel, then you would have to lower the lower spring<br />

perch on the right front shock body by ½ x 0.65 = 0.32 inches. The rear motion ratio is calculated the<br />

same way.<br />

6. Repeat steps 4 & 5 for the left front, left rear and right rear wheels.<br />

7. Armed with the data from steps 4,5 & 6, securely jack the car up and place it on four jack stands.<br />

Remove the wheels if necessary to reach the lower spring perches. For the front dampers, loosen the<br />

lower perch lock ring and thread the lower perch up or down by the amount you have calculated in step<br />

5. The rear spring perch does not have a locking ring and can be turned freely. Record the location of<br />

the perches so you can have it as a future reference if needed. Once the desired height is attained,<br />

tighten the locking perch against the spring perch.<br />

8. Place the wheels back on the car and lower it to the ground. Drive the car around the block or press up<br />

and down on the car 3 or 4 times at each of the four wheels to settle the suspension before you make<br />

any measurements. Make sure the car is in the exact same location as before and go to step 2.<br />

Page 23 of 44


<strong>STaSIS</strong> Signature Line Maintenance Instructions<br />

Custom Valved Ohlins Threaded Steel Dampers<br />

The STASIS Coil Over kit is designed to provide superior service for the lifetime of your vehicle. As this<br />

suspension system is a race car derived kit with high performance components, routine maintenance is required<br />

to insure the optimal operation of your suspension system.<br />

We recommend the following steps are performed bi-annually, preferably before and after the winter season.<br />

Vehicles that are exposed to more abusive environments, such as sea salt, road salt or dirt roads may<br />

necessitate more frequent maintenance.<br />

1. Securely support the vehicle on four jack stands and remove the road wheels.<br />

2. Clean the threaded portion of the damper with a non metallic brush using soap and water.<br />

3. We recommend lowering or raising the lower spring perch to allow access to clean the<br />

threaded portion of the damper that is covered by the perches.<br />

4. Lubricate the threaded portion of the damper with “Boeshield T9” lubricant-protectant or a<br />

similar wax based lubricant.<br />

5. Return the perches to their original location and tighten the locking perches. Spray<br />

protectant on the remaining components of the damper assembly.<br />

6. Check the rear spherical bearings and verify that they are properly lubricated.<br />

7. Service your dampers with <strong>STaSIS</strong> every 2 years to maintain product warranty and optimal<br />

functionality.<br />

8. If you have any questions about this, please call <strong>STaSIS</strong> at 707-935-9700.<br />

Secure the road wheels and return the vehicle to the ground. Watch that the springs seat properly on the spring<br />

perches<br />

Page 24 of 44


<strong>A4</strong>/<strong>S4</strong> Suspension<br />

*When performing complete Sig.Series package, removing OEM exhaust prior to ARB<br />

highly recommended*<br />

Rear Anti-Roll Bar<br />

Applications List<br />

Qty Description Part Number<br />

1 <strong>A4</strong> <strong>B8</strong> <strong>STaSIS</strong> Rear ARB 24 mm SA15.2100.00<br />

1 <strong>S4</strong> <strong>B8</strong> <strong>STaSIS</strong> Rear ARB 28mm SA15.3100.00<br />

Tools Required<br />

Description<br />

13mm Socket<br />

10mm Triple Square Socket<br />

16mm Socket<br />

16mm Box End Wrench<br />

Medium Prybar<br />

Torque Values<br />

ARB Mounting Bracket Bolts, 10mm Triple Square<br />

Lower Drop Link Bolts<br />

Upper Drop Link Bolts<br />

Chassis Cross Brace Bolts<br />

Exhaust Muffler Hanger Nuts<br />

29 N m<br />

54 N m<br />

54 N m<br />

54 N m<br />

20 N m<br />

Page 25 of 44


1 Before removing any parts, jack the vehicle up, and place the vehicle on four stable jack stands or use<br />

a professional vehicle lift.<br />

2 Support the exhaust and remove the two<br />

exhaust muffler hanger nuts (one per<br />

side), 13mm socket.<br />

3 Gently pry the two center exhaust rubber<br />

hangers of off the exhaust. Use a<br />

lubricant (i.e. WD-40) if required.<br />

Page 26 of 44


4 Remove the center chassis cross brace,<br />

16mm socket.<br />

5 Lower exhaust to give clearance for<br />

removal and installation of the ARB.<br />

6 Loosen but do not remove the lower ARB<br />

drop link bolts, 16mm socket.<br />

Page 27 of 44


7 Disconnect upper ARB drop link bolts<br />

from the ARB and rotate link to the side,<br />

16mm end wrenches<br />

8 Remove the bolts attaching the ARB<br />

brackets to the subframe (both sides),<br />

10mm Triple Square Socket.<br />

9 Remove the stock ARB from the car.<br />

Gently pry off the ARB mount brackets<br />

and rubber bushings (these will be reused<br />

with the <strong>STaSIS</strong> ARB).<br />

OEM ARB bushings have enough flex to<br />

accommodate the <strong>STaSIS</strong> ARB.<br />

Page 28 of 44


10 Install the OEM bushings and mounting<br />

brackets with a centered distance of 26<br />

¾” between the bolt centers of each<br />

clamp.<br />

11 Install <strong>STaSIS</strong> ARB into vehicle. It may be<br />

necessary to deflect the upper control arm<br />

by gently using a pry bar as shown to<br />

facilitate the installation.<br />

12 Once located, installation is the reverse of<br />

all removal steps. Make sure to locate<br />

drop link bolts into the ARB before<br />

tightening the ARB Mounting Bracket<br />

bolts. Torque all fasteners to the<br />

specifications shown.<br />

*NOTE*: After mounting to the vehicle,<br />

make sure your ARB is centered between<br />

the two clamps to avoid possible binding<br />

and interference with suspension<br />

components during vehicle operation.<br />

Page 29 of 44


<strong>A4</strong>/<strong>S4</strong> Center Differential <strong>Installation</strong><br />

Parts List:<br />

Qty Description Part Number<br />

1 High Bias Torsen DL01.0012.00<br />

Special Tools Required<br />

Removal<br />

Qty Description Part Number<br />

1 Drip Tray VAG 1306<br />

1 Torque Wrench VAG 1331<br />

1 Loosen quick-release fasteners - 2 and 3 - and<br />

remove rear noise insulation.<br />

2 Disconnect exhaust system at clamps – arrows<br />

Disengage rear section of exhaust system at rubber<br />

mounting and remove<br />

Page 30 of 44


3 If installed, remove heat shield for drive shaft - arrows<br />

4 Remove bolts – arrows – at transmission/drive shaft<br />

flange.<br />

Slide drive shaft together toward rear final drive. The<br />

constant velocity joints can be moved axially.<br />

5 Secure drive shaft to selector rod. Place drip tray VAG<br />

G1306 under transmission.<br />

Support transmission using engine/transmission jack<br />

V.A.G 1383 A with transmission support T10337<br />

attached.<br />

6 Remove tunnel crossmember bolts - arrows -<br />

Page 31 of 44


7 Carefully lower the transmission using<br />

engine/transmission jack V.A.G 1383 A .<br />

Do not lower more then, 100 mm maximum.<br />

Remove nuts - arrow - and tunnel crossmember.<br />

8 Place used oil collection and extraction device V.A.G<br />

1782 under transmission.<br />

Remove bolt - arrow - and drain transmission oil.<br />

Install bolt - arrow - and tighten it to 40 Nm.<br />

9 Remove bolts - A - and - arrows - and remove center<br />

differential housing - B - carefully.<br />

10 If gear carrier - 1 - remains in center differential housing,<br />

proceed as follows:<br />

Grip side ridge on gear carrier - 1 - using a pair of pliers<br />

and remove it in direction of - arrow A - .<br />

Using a rubber hammer , tap housing on alternating<br />

sides - B arrows - .<br />

CAUTION!<br />

Do not damage sealing surfaces when doing so.<br />

Remove center differential.<br />

Page 32 of 44


<strong>Installation</strong><br />

11 Install gear carrier on transmission as follows:<br />

<strong>Installation</strong> position: The tab on gear carrier - arrow A -<br />

must be in opening in transmission housing - arrow B - .<br />

12 Clean both joint surfaces in the housing.<br />

Position center differential - 2 - over gear carrier - 1 - .<br />

Insert plate spring - 5 - , adjustment shim(s) - 4 - and<br />

spring - 3 - in center differential housing - 6 - .<br />

Plate spring installation location - 5 - : The camber on<br />

inner diameter - arrow - faces toward center differential<br />

housing - 6 - .<br />

Apply sealing paste AMV 188 001 02 evenly and not too<br />

thick.<br />

Then position center differential housing - 6 - on<br />

transmission.<br />

13 Press center differential housing - B - on until it makes<br />

contact with transmission housing and hold it securely.<br />

Install and tighten new bolts - arrows - . Tightening<br />

specification: 7 ft-lbs plus an additional 90 degree turn.<br />

Tighten bolts - A - Tightening specification: 18 ft-lbs.<br />

Page 33 of 44


14 Tighten tunnel crossmember on transmission mount -<br />

arrows - . Tightening specification: 15 ft-lbs.<br />

15 Raise transmission and tighten the tunnel crossmember<br />

bolts - arrows - . Tightening specification: 41 ft-lbs.<br />

Tighten drive shaft on the transmission.<br />

Tightening specification: 30 ft-lbs<br />

Top off transmission oil and check oil level.<br />

Install exhaust system and align it without tension.<br />

16 Install drive shaft heat shield.<br />

Tightening specification: 18 ft-lbs.<br />

17 Reinstall rear section of exhaust system.<br />

Page 34 of 44


<strong>A4</strong>/<strong>S4</strong> Exhaust<br />

Exhaust Kit <strong>Installation</strong><br />

Applications<br />

Qty Description Part Number<br />

1 <strong>A4</strong> Sig Series Twin Tip Exhaust EX05.<strong>A4</strong><strong>B8</strong>.00<br />

1 <strong>S4</strong> Sig Series Quad Tip Exhaust, Low SE221-E10-01-00<br />

1 <strong>S4</strong> Sig Series Quad Tip Exhaust, High SE221-E10-02-00<br />

Instructions<br />

1 Place vehicle in secure position. Remove factory<br />

exhaust system up to the catalytic converter<br />

assembly. Leave rubber hangers in position.<br />

2 Using a 10mm socket, remove the 3 plastic nuts<br />

holding the right side cavity cover.<br />

*<strong>S4</strong> Vehicle*<br />

Steps 2-6 do not apply<br />

3 Remove the push clip retainer in the rear right<br />

corner of the cavity cover. Remove the cover from<br />

the vehicle.<br />

Page 35 of 44


4 Gently pull to remove the stock rear valence.<br />

5 Install the supplied exhaust hanger onto the right<br />

side muffler.<br />

6 Install the supplied heat shield for the right side of<br />

the vehicle using the speed nuts pictured above.<br />

Page 36 of 44


7 Make sure there is adequate clearance between the<br />

heat shield and the sway bar. The heat shield<br />

should be tight against the chassis. If not, gently<br />

bend the heat shield.<br />

Attach new valence by gently pressing on tabs<br />

across the bumper.<br />

Attention: S-line vehicles must trim the new<br />

valence to the provided template to avoid<br />

interference during operation.<br />

8 Install mid pipe and driver’s side muffler into<br />

position. Slipping it into the mid-pipe and secure<br />

loose enough for adjustment<br />

9 Remove hardware from adjustment bracket. Be<br />

sure to keep them for reinstallation.<br />

10 Install passenger side into position. Slipping it into<br />

the mid-pipe and secure loose enough for<br />

adjustment.<br />

11 Reinstall hardware for adjustable bracket and<br />

tighten flanges and bracket with mufflers aligned<br />

and spaced evenly.<br />

Confirm the side-side distances are equal (x).<br />

Loosen nut (arrow) on adjustable bracket and align<br />

muffler as necessary. Torque nut to 23 Nm (17 ftlb)<br />

12 Loosen factory hangers at rear of muffler with 13mm<br />

wrench. Using the slots in these hangers and the<br />

adjustable bracket, position tips in centers of<br />

bumper cutouts.<br />

13 Test drive and check for rattles. Re-adjust as<br />

necessary to provide proper clearance.<br />

Page 37 of 44


<strong>A4</strong>/<strong>S4</strong> Brakes<br />

Optional <strong>STaSIS</strong> Monobloc Brake Kit<br />

Parts List:<br />

Qty Description Part Number<br />

1 Rotor Alcon 370X32 RH BR01.1006.00<br />

1 Rotor Alcon 370X32 LH BR01.1007.00<br />

4 SHCS M12x1.750x60 12.9 Blue HA01.1206.75<br />

1 Caliper Alcon Mono6 RH Trailing BR03.1002.00<br />

1 Caliper Alcon Mono6 LH Trailing BR03.1003.00<br />

2 Bracket <strong>B8</strong> 14.5 Mono6 BR04.1400.00<br />

1 Line Kit Audi Front Alcon BR20.1007.00<br />

2 Brake Line Stop Washer BR20.1008.00<br />

1 Project Mµ NS Pad Set BP01.6001.00<br />

1 Fluid Motul 5.1 BP99.1000.00<br />

<strong>Installation</strong> <strong>Guide</strong>lines<br />

Please follow these guidelines when installing the front brake kit.<br />

• Torque all fasteners to specification. Do not use an impact wrench.<br />

• The rotors are side-specific, rotational direction is labeled. Open portion of crescents face toward the<br />

direction of rotation.<br />

• The rotors have been dynamically balanced by machining the outer edge. Flat spots along the outer<br />

diameter are normal and will not affect the performance of the rotor.<br />

• Tighten hydraulic connections with a line wrench.<br />

• Bleed brakes properly to assure proper brake operation; the use of a power bleeder is<br />

recommended.<br />

• Ensure all ABS sensor and Pad wear sensor plugs are reconnected.<br />

• Proper pad bedding is essential to proper brake operation.<br />

• Initially drive the car with low braking force to check brake operation; then follow all steps listed in the<br />

bedding process outlined at the end of this instruction manual.<br />

• During bedding do not thermally shock the rotors with aggressive braking before the rotors have come<br />

up to temperature. Cracks on new rotors can form due to thermal shock. Gradually increase brake<br />

pressures as instructed in the bedding procedure.<br />

• After bedding brakes re-torque wheel nuts to proper torque specifications.<br />

• If vibration occurs during normal usage, check for abnormal pad wear deposits on the rotor. Double<br />

check all fasteners and repeat the bedding process 2-3 cycles until the pad deposits on the rotor<br />

becomes uniform.<br />

• If the vehicle is driven in adverse weather conditions, <strong>STaSIS</strong> Engineering recommends annual<br />

cleaning and inspection of the rotor crescents. A common source of vibration can be attributed to dirt<br />

completely filling in the crescents on the inboard side of the rotors which in turn will not allow the pad to<br />

function properly.<br />

• Brake rotor wall thickness wear limit is 1.0 mm per side of rotor. Rotor face runout limit +/- 0.010 in,<br />

when taking measurement make sure rotor is tightened down to the hub at all 5 bolt locations.<br />

Page 38 of 44


Instructions<br />

1 Sort the parts in the brake kit for the right and left side.<br />

Brake bleeders face upward. Caliper mounting brackets<br />

are universal.<br />

Install brake pads in calipers.<br />

Install brake lines with banjo bolt and crush washers.<br />

Orient brake line facing straight up as shown.<br />

2 Raise vehicle and remove the front wheels.<br />

3 Using brake cleaner, clean the brake line connection at<br />

the body flange. Remove all dirt and debris from this<br />

area and from the line connection threads so that no dirt<br />

will get into the new brake line when it is installed.<br />

4 Remove the caliper.<br />

Remove the ABS sensor wire from the holding bracket<br />

on the brake caliper to facilitate removing the caliper.<br />

Disconnect the brake pad wear sensor wire from the<br />

driver’s side front brake inner pad.<br />

Remove caliper mounting bolts (the bolts holding the<br />

caliper mounting bracket to the upright). Save these<br />

bolts as they will be reused.<br />

Remove caliper and support it so that the brake line is<br />

not under tension.<br />

5 Remove the brake rotor. Clean the hub, removing all<br />

rust from the rotor mounting surface, the rotor pilot and<br />

wheel pilot. Apply some anti-seize to the pilot surface to<br />

prevent rotors and wheels from sticking in the future.<br />

Do not get any anti-seize on the rotor mounting surface<br />

of the hub.<br />

Page 39 of 44


6 Install caliper mounting brackets using the stock<br />

mounting bolts and torque to 92 ft-lb. The bracket will<br />

mount to the outside face of the upright with the angle<br />

flange going over the mounting ears in the upright. The<br />

OEM bolts will fit through the upright from the backside<br />

and thread into the bracket.<br />

7 Install the new rotors making sure they are free of dirt<br />

and grease. Tighten the rotor retaining bolt to 48 in-lbs.<br />

8 Place the caliper with the brake pads installed onto the<br />

caliper mounting bracket and install the caliper mounting<br />

bolts M12 x 1.75 x 60 and torque to 70 ft-lb. If the caliper<br />

will not go over the rotor because the pads are too close<br />

together, push the pads back using a pad spreader.<br />

Note: When rotating, the rotor must always pass the<br />

small caliper piston first. Therefore in a trailing caliper<br />

application like we have here the small caliper piston will<br />

be at the bottom of the caliper. The purpose is to insure<br />

even pad wear.<br />

Page 40 of 44


9<br />

Replace the front brake lines.<br />

Use an 11-mm line wrench on the hard line<br />

nut and a 16-mm wrench on the flats on the<br />

flex line hose-end.<br />

Remove the stock flexible line from the hard<br />

line and completely remove the stock caliper<br />

and line from the vehicle.<br />

Install the copper washer onto the new line<br />

as shown.<br />

Install the new flexible line, with washer using<br />

the stock spring clip under the hard line nut<br />

and clean with brake clean once tightened.<br />

Install the rubber brake line grommet into the<br />

factory bracket on the back of the upright.<br />

Re-connect all ABS sensor wires and the<br />

brake pad wear sensor.<br />

10 Make sure that the brake rotor spins freely<br />

and that the rotor is flush on the hub.<br />

11 Bleed the brakes using fresh high-quality<br />

brake fluid. A power bleeder is highly<br />

recommended. Two bleeders are on each<br />

front caliper.<br />

Bleed the outers first until no air exits, then<br />

the inners until no air exits<br />

Wait 10-15 minutes.<br />

Power bleed again while turning the ignition<br />

on/engine off and stroke the brake pedal five<br />

times when each bleeder is open. This<br />

process will assure a proper bleed with the<br />

ABS equipped system.<br />

Tighten all bleeders securely.<br />

12 Clean all brake line connections with brake<br />

cleaner and compressed air so that they are<br />

clean and dry. Start engine and pressurize<br />

brake system several times and check for<br />

leaks at all the brake line connections.<br />

Correct any leaks before driving the car.<br />

13 Check the clearance between the wheels and<br />

the new brake calipers. Make sure that there<br />

is at least 1/8”(0.125”) between the wheel<br />

and the caliper.<br />

Page 41 of 44


14 Verify that all bolts are tight and torque the<br />

wheel lug bolts.<br />

15 Test drive the car using the brakes gently.<br />

16 WARNING: Do not aggressively test the<br />

brakes until they are properly bedded.<br />

17 Bed the pads and rotors. See the Bedding<br />

Procedure attached to these installation<br />

instructions. After brakes are fully bedded<br />

recheck wheel lug bolt torque.<br />

Page 42 of 44


<strong>STaSIS</strong> Bedding Procedure<br />

After installing new pads, rotors, or both, it is necessary to properly bed the pad to the rotor<br />

before using the brakes to their full capacity.<br />

What is bedding?<br />

Bedding is the process of depositing a layer of pad material (often called the transfer layer or<br />

transfer film) onto the surface of the rotor. Brake rotors used on OEM style brake systems do<br />

not require this transfer layer as the braking system is relying on friction between the pad and<br />

the rotor material to slow the vehicle down. On <strong>STaSIS</strong> rotors, the bond between the pad<br />

and the transfer layer is much stronger and the frictional characteristics of the pad/transfer<br />

layer interface are far better than those of a pad/rotor interface. It is therefore crucial to bed<br />

pads properly to ensure the reliability, performance, and longevity of your <strong>STaSIS</strong>/ALCON<br />

brake system.<br />

When should I bed pads and rotors?<br />

Bedding is recommended whenever you install new pads or rotors, or experience vibrations<br />

while braking.<br />

• For new pads and rotors, bedding allows the manufacturing resins in the pads to burn off<br />

slowly to avoid uneven deposits or pad glazing. Bedding also allows the rotors to relieve<br />

any thermal stresses incurred during the manufacturing process.<br />

• Vibrations felt through the brake pedal are most commonly a result of uneven pad<br />

deposition, which is remedied by re-bedding the existing components.<br />

Bedding Process<br />

1. Upon initial installation do not bed the rotors immediately. Drive the vehicle with normal to<br />

light braking for 1-2 days to allow the pad and rotor surfaces to conform better before bedding<br />

in at higher temperatures.<br />

2. Find a suitable road. You will need a relatively straight road with minimal traffic where you<br />

can safely (and legally!) reach speeds up to 65 MPH.<br />

3. Once the car has been driven with light braking for a few miles to bring the rotors up to the<br />

proper operating temperature, bring the car up to approximately 65 MPH. Gently apply<br />

constant pressure (about 10%) to the brakes, bringing the car down to about 20 MPH.<br />

4. Accelerate briskly back to 65 MPH. Apply the brakes again, however this time use more<br />

force (about 20%).<br />

5. Repeat steps 2 and 3, each successive time applying more pressure. Your last two brake<br />

applications should engage or nearly engage the ABS system.<br />

6. Do not immediately stop the vehicle with your foot on the brakes after step 5, the<br />

concentrated heat from the pad sitting on a non-rotating rotor will warp the rotor. Drive<br />

vehicle using absolutely minimal brake application to cool the rotors to ambient temperature<br />

(freeway driving).<br />

7. Once the system has cooled, repeat the entire process.<br />

After completing two heat cycles on the rotors, check the rotors for an even, slightly hazy<br />

coating (often with a slight blue tint). Any spotting or blotches indicate uneven pad<br />

deposition. Repeat the process until the rotor surface is even.<br />

Page 43 of 44


<strong>A4</strong>/<strong>S4</strong> Signature Series Post <strong>Installation</strong> Checklist<br />

Suspension<br />

o<br />

o<br />

o<br />

o<br />

o<br />

o<br />

Fastener clip removed from the inside fender lip on the front right and left sides.<br />

Ensure nylock nuts are completely tightened on the front and rear upper adapter<br />

pins. Loose nuts will cause clunking noises from the damper.<br />

Ensure both front swaybar link bolts are reconnected to the damper fork.<br />

Check orientation of the rear bushing spacers- shorter one against the bolt head.<br />

Ensure all suspension and anti-roll bar mounting bolts were tightened with the<br />

suspension compressed to the curb weight position.<br />

Check ride height and alignment after driving the car for a few miles, as the<br />

rubber bushings will cause the car to settle.<br />

Brakes<br />

o<br />

o<br />

o<br />

o<br />

o<br />

o<br />

o<br />

o<br />

Ensure all ABS sensor and Pad wear sensor plugs are reconnected<br />

Ensure brake line grommet is properly seated on bracket. Cycle steering from full<br />

lock left to full lock right (with the suspension compressed to the curb weight<br />

position) and inspect for possible binding on the brake line.<br />

After bleeding brakes, cycle pressure to the pedal and double check all bleed screws<br />

and brake line connections for possible leakage.<br />

Drive the car at low speeds for a few miles to check brake operation before<br />

beginning brake bedding procedure.<br />

During bedding do not thermally shock the rotors with aggressive braking before the<br />

rotors have come up to temperature. Cracks on new rotors can form due to thermal<br />

shock. Gradually increase brake pressures as instructed in the bedding procedure.<br />

After bedding brakes re-torque wheel nuts to proper torque specifications.<br />

After installation and bleeding is completed double check brake fluid level.<br />

If vibration occurs during normal usage, check for abnormal pad wear deposits on<br />

the rotor. Double check all fasteners and repeat the bedding process 2-3 cycles until<br />

the pad deposits on the rotor becomes uniform.<br />

Exhaust<br />

o<br />

o<br />

o<br />

o<br />

During and after install, wipe off all assembly and shipping particles from the<br />

exhaust. If dust is not wiped off, once the exhaust gets hot, the particles burn onto<br />

the stainless steel finish and become permanent.<br />

For S-line vehicles, ensure corners of the new valence are trimmed to the included<br />

template. The exhaust will fit without trimming, but once the exhaust gets hot, it<br />

will extend into and melt the valence.<br />

Ensure the exhaust tips on both sides protrude from the bumper evenly and are not<br />

touching any body panels. Clearance to all body panels should account for thermal<br />

expansion of the exhaust, up to ½ inch in length.<br />

Apply anti seize to all assembly bolts to allow for ease of removal.<br />

Page 44 of 44

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