Cyclades Guide - Escale Yachting
Cyclades Guide - Escale Yachting
Cyclades Guide - Escale Yachting
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Free of charge<br />
The best guide<br />
especially for you<br />
is<br />
you@cyclades<br />
G r e e c e - C y c l a d e s<br />
www.cyclades-tour.gr<br />
Prefectural Government of the <strong>Cyclades</strong><br />
each island<br />
a world of its own
Especially for you<br />
the best guide<br />
you@cyclades<br />
This is the best guide to the Cycladic islands.<br />
It was designed to help you decide on the type of<br />
holidays that best suit you.<br />
Of course it contains all the necessary information –<br />
and much more!<br />
That's why its the ideal guide to an imaginary trip to<br />
the <strong>Cyclades</strong>. Take the trip now, through the pages of<br />
this guide.<br />
It will also help you decide which island of the<br />
<strong>Cyclades</strong> will be the starting point of your holidays,<br />
and so half the job will be done.<br />
It will do the other half once you're there, in the<br />
<strong>Cyclades</strong>, and you'll be taking its advice many times a<br />
day. Using this perfect guide and following your<br />
desires, your adventurous nature or your schedule,<br />
the suggestions of friends who've already visited the<br />
<strong>Cyclades</strong>, or the advice of people you'll meet here,<br />
find what you're really looking for in a holiday. One<br />
thing is for sure: in the <strong>Cyclades</strong> you'll experience the<br />
perfect holiday, no matter your definition of perfect.<br />
each island<br />
a world of its own
It all happens here<br />
Says who?!<br />
Any native of the <strong>Cyclades</strong> will tell you that “it all happens<br />
here"; because they know best. And this because locals have<br />
seen cold, winter days, as well as clear, sunny days; they've<br />
experienced the wild stormy sea; they've joined Epitaph<br />
processions and feast days; they've tasted all delicacies;<br />
they've gone fishing; they've heard and told old stories;<br />
they've seen all the delights of nature – from newborn goats<br />
running through the grass and spring daisies, to herons and<br />
dolphins right at the pier-side.<br />
So say visitors to the <strong>Cyclades</strong>, no matter which islands they<br />
visited or how long they stayed.<br />
So say the word's tourist guides.<br />
And so says the Prefectural Committee for Tourism<br />
Promotion, the authority that<br />
knows everything that interests<br />
visitors to the Aegean Islands,<br />
4
It's better in the <strong>Cyclades</strong><br />
They're talking to you!!!<br />
no matter where they come from.<br />
Holidays in the <strong>Cyclades</strong> have something for everyone - and<br />
that's the truth!<br />
For teenagers, but also for their grandparents, for loners, for<br />
trendies, for lovers, for friends, for families, for those who've had<br />
enough, for the unconventional, for the extreme, for the<br />
conservative, for athletic types, for the exhausted, for organized<br />
types, for bon vivants, for gourmands, for the sophisticated, for<br />
nature lovers and anyone else you can imagine.<br />
There's no need to be one of the above types. Just be yourself<br />
and make your wishes top priority.<br />
Because in the <strong>Cyclades</strong> you don't need to fit in with any one<br />
holiday style. Here, the holiday style is your style – change your<br />
mind, and you change your entire schedule.<br />
It's better in the <strong>Cyclades</strong>. Each island a world of its own. And in<br />
this world, you'll find holidays can include more than you<br />
imagined: Culture, Nature, Tradition.<br />
5
16 6<br />
The gods were here first<br />
The <strong>Cyclades</strong> were nymphs, daughters of Oceanus and Tethys, who<br />
Poseidon transformed into isles when they invoked his rage. In Delos<br />
Apollo, son of the sun, was born; Dionysus, the god of wine, festivity<br />
and fertility was born in Naxos. The <strong>Cyclades</strong> were a point of reference<br />
in the Argonautic Expedition, in Homer's epics, in the myth of Theseus<br />
and Ariadne, in the myth of Perseus and his mother, Danae.<br />
A name renowned and fitting<br />
The name <strong>Cyclades</strong> dates back to the 5th century BC in the works of<br />
Herodotus and comes from the word 'cycle', either because the strong<br />
winds made the ships sail in circles, or because of the circular<br />
arrangement of the islands around Delos, a<br />
sacred island in ancient years.<br />
Some geography…<br />
The <strong>Cyclades</strong> group of islands includes about<br />
220 islands, large and small, 24 of which are<br />
inhabited, scattered over a sea area of<br />
approximately 8,000 km² .<br />
The largest island in the <strong>Cyclades</strong> is Naxos,<br />
2<br />
covering an area of 448 km , with 20,000 residents. The smallest island<br />
is Pano Koufonissi, covering an area of 3.5 km² , with about 300<br />
permanent residents. In terms of administration, the <strong>Cyclades</strong> form an
autonomous prefecture, whose capital is Ermoupoli in Syros; the total<br />
population currently exceeds 110,000.<br />
Nature at its best<br />
The impressive form of the island coasts is the result of violent<br />
geological ocurrences. Breathtaking cliffs, hundreds of metres above<br />
Good weather all year round<br />
The sun shines over the <strong>Cyclades</strong> for more than 3,000 hours a year,<br />
illuminating the shades of sky and sea. The temperature rarely falls<br />
below zero, and the mean temperature on most islands during winter is<br />
over 12°C. In summertime, the mean temperature is above 25°C,<br />
although the air is cool due to strong northeast winds and the sea<br />
breeze.<br />
In the <strong>Cyclades</strong>, northeast winds start blowing in May and slow down in<br />
September. Winds, usually northern, blow almost all year round, and<br />
rainfalls are limited.<br />
The mild winters and the northeast breeze in summertime means that<br />
the sea (Monastery of Hozoviotissa in Amorgos, Chora in Sikinos,<br />
Chora in Folegandros) alternate with coasts<br />
fragmented into innumerable gulfs and bays,<br />
where volcanic activity and weathering have<br />
created formations of rare beauty, sea caves and<br />
strange rock formations - Kolymbithres in Paros,<br />
the Emerald Cave (Smaragdenia Spilia),<br />
Glaronisia, Kleftiko; Venetsianes in Milos; the<br />
beaches of Santorini with black or reddish sand,<br />
or yellowish weathered rocks which form natural<br />
sculptures and small caves.<br />
the weather is good in the <strong>Cyclades</strong> all year round, enabling visitors to<br />
come closer to nature and its beauties in all seasons.<br />
167
Feathered visitors, land and sea<br />
inhabitants<br />
The islands of the <strong>Cyclades</strong> demonstrate a particularly interesting<br />
fauna which includes several endemic species only found in Greece,<br />
or even on only one island or islet!<br />
The <strong>Cyclades</strong> are home to several local endemic reptiles: the viper of<br />
Milos (Milos, Kimolos, Polyegos, Sifnos), the lizard of Milos (Milos,<br />
Antimilos, Kimolos), the little crocodile (Delos, Naxos, Paros,<br />
(bottlenose dolphin, pilot whale, Risso's dolphin).<br />
The sea fauna of the <strong>Cyclades</strong> is particularly rich,<br />
and includes more than 200 species of fish (red<br />
mullet, pandora, gilthead seabream, white<br />
seabream, saddled seabream, black seabream,<br />
meagre) and octopus, squid, cuttlefish, lobster<br />
and sea horses – a true paradise for underwater<br />
fishing and diving.<br />
8<br />
Antiparos, Mykonos), and the (most common) ratsnake, “lafiatis”.<br />
Among the mammals seen in <strong>Cyclades</strong>, significant are the rare wild<br />
goat only found in Antimilos, the Mediterranean seal (the most<br />
important mammal of the Aegean Sea), and various dolphin species<br />
Others were here before you…<br />
The most ancient settlement in the <strong>Cyclades</strong> dates back to 9000 BC, in<br />
Kythnos.
Towards the end of the 4th millennium BC and during the 3rd<br />
millennium BC, parallel to the Early Minoan Period in Crete and the<br />
Early Helladic Period in mainland Greece, and starting from Kea<br />
(settlement of Kefala 3300-3200 BC) a civilization with special<br />
characteristics evolved in the <strong>Cyclades</strong>, also known as the Cycladic<br />
Civilization, with unique artistic objects,<br />
including the world-famous Cycladic<br />
Figurines.<br />
This civilization developed in small<br />
independent communities which were tied<br />
to the sea, since the islands did not have<br />
large cultivable areas on the one hand,<br />
and on the other hand they were located at a meeting point for routes<br />
that connected Asia Minor, Greece and Crete.<br />
The <strong>Cyclades</strong> actively participated in the great Greek colonization in<br />
the 8th century BC, and the two centuries that followed were the<br />
period when the <strong>Cyclades</strong> thrived. Race, language, religion and habits<br />
were the bonds between the islands; politically, however, each city<br />
was a separate and individual entity, with its own ruler, aristocracy and<br />
a powerful commercial middle class, as in the rest of Greece.<br />
During the Classical Period, the <strong>Cyclades</strong> were party to the Athenian<br />
Alliance, and all but Milos supported Athens<br />
during the Peloponnesian War.<br />
Following the dissolution of the 2nd Athenian<br />
Alliance, the <strong>Cyclades</strong> became autonomous.<br />
The cultural boom that followed was highly<br />
significant, illustrative examples being the<br />
exceptional works of the Aphrodite of Milos,<br />
Hermes of Andros, the mosaics and murals of<br />
Delos.<br />
Over the centuries that followed, the <strong>Cyclades</strong><br />
9
ecame the subject of discord, changing rulers depending on who was<br />
colours on doors, windows and balconies<br />
the most powerful in each period, before their decline which lasted until<br />
(usually deep blue).<br />
Wonderful churches,<br />
recent years.<br />
castles-monasteries, windmills, springs and<br />
stone-built farmhouses, the famous dovecotes,<br />
10<br />
The miracle of Cycladic architecture<br />
Popular Cycladic architecture requires buildings to be wisely adapted<br />
to the daily needs of residents, and admirably harmonised with the<br />
simple beauty of the Cycladic landscape.<br />
Strolling in a traditional settlement, visitors have the impression of a<br />
maze, as if surrounded by a fascinating movie set.<br />
Cycladic houses are at street level or two-storey, with stone-built<br />
external staircases. They are plain, without ornaments, and have few<br />
openings, featuring a charming colour contrast of white with vivid<br />
are just a few of the admirable works of the<br />
<strong>Cyclades</strong>.<br />
Fruit of the rock,<br />
adornment for the plate<br />
The cultivation of Cycladic land provides raw materials for survival:<br />
olive oil, potatoes, fava beans, sun-dried tomatoes, capers. Fish are<br />
salted or seasoned to “gouna”, one of the strangest delicacies of sundried<br />
fish mainly found in Paros, to last during winter. Meat is also
seasoned to make sausages and salami,such as siglino, louza or<br />
apokti. Cheese products are famous beyond the boundaries of the<br />
<strong>Cyclades</strong>: kopanisti of Syros, Tinos and Mykonos, the spicy cheese<br />
paste of Naxos, graviera (gruere) of Naxos and Tinos, the unseasoned<br />
cheese of Santorini, San Michali of Syros, arseniko of Naxos and<br />
Sikinos, petroti of Andros and Tinos, the ground cheese of Andros<br />
(malachto), and skotyri of Ios.<br />
A local delicacy of Sifnos and Folegandros is "gylomeno"<br />
cheese, the most unusual type of cheese in Greece,<br />
seasoned and preserved in wine sediment.<br />
And last but not least, exceptional honey and delightful wines<br />
with special character.<br />
Local cuisine: Discovering new senses<br />
The Cycladic cuisine impresses with its variety, originality and simplicity,<br />
saving endless surprises for the palate: grilled fish stuffed with herbs,<br />
octopus croquettes, herring salad, sea urchin salad, escargot-garlic<br />
paste (Paros), octopus with pasta (Schinoussa), marinated fish<br />
“savoro” (Kythnos), wild rabbit cooked in wine (Antiparos), paspalas<br />
(pork cooked with tomato and eggs, Kea), ladenia (bread made with<br />
oil, tomato and onion, Kimolos), patatato (kid cooked with potatoes,<br />
tomatoes and spices, a local delicacy<br />
of the Small <strong>Cyclades</strong>), "pentarates”<br />
potatoes (Naxos), fava beans cooked<br />
with thyme and capers (Thirasia),<br />
“karpouzenia” (sweet pie with water<br />
melon, honey and sesame,<br />
Folegandros).<br />
Try the delicious preserves, the fragrant<br />
macaroons, the rich pasteli, kydonopasto from<br />
Naxos, kalathakia from Mykonos, karydaki from<br />
11
Andros, and of course, the famous lokum and halvadopita from Syros.<br />
It's worth trying the unique special dishes and sweets served at feasts,<br />
weddings and christenings.<br />
Giannoulis Halepas, Dimitrios Filippotis from<br />
TInos, the painter Konstantinos Panorios from<br />
Sifnos, as well as famous scholars such as<br />
Theofilos Kairis and Andreas Embirikos<br />
Folk and fine arts<br />
The people of the <strong>Cyclades</strong> continue a long-lasting tradition of folk arts,<br />
marble carving, wickerwork, shipbuilding, weaving, the art of mosaic,<br />
wood carving, stone building and roof tiling.<br />
Several famous folk artists have contributed to the work of the<br />
numerous unknown ones. Famous artists include the painters<br />
Nikiforos Lytras, Nikolaos Gyzis, Giannis Gaitis, and the sculptors<br />
(Andros), Emmanouil Roidis and Dimitrios<br />
Vikelas (Syros).<br />
The folk music of the <strong>Cyclades</strong> is rich and<br />
famous, featuring wonderful dances.<br />
The “Cycladic Meeting of Folk Wind<br />
Instruments” is a point of reference. It starts from Kea with the sound of<br />
bagpipes and travels to every island of the <strong>Cyclades</strong>, every year.<br />
Markos Vamvakaris was also from the <strong>Cyclades</strong>, Syros in fact. During<br />
12
his years in Piraeus he was greatly influenced by the sounds brought<br />
by immigrants, and created the musical genre of “rembetiko”. This is<br />
why he was called the “master".<br />
When to visit….<br />
On the holidays of local patron saints, and see “panygirades” (Sifnos,<br />
Koufonissia) and “ktitores” (Serifos), with organized celebrations. On<br />
festivities for the Assumption of Virgin Mary on the 15th of August, and<br />
On the night of the 23rd of June, the day on or before the celebrations<br />
of Ai Giannis in Andros, Antiparos, Ios, Kea and Naxos, where you<br />
can see the traditional custom of fortune telling called “klidonas”.<br />
It is worth visiting Paros on the 3rd of November, to celebrate on the<br />
day of Ai Giorgis Methystis, Serifos on the 14th of November, Agios<br />
Filippos day, and almost all islands on Ai Nikolas day.<br />
Even Christmas and New Year's Eve are<br />
different, yet wonderful, in the <strong>Cyclades</strong>.<br />
nine days later, on the 23rd of August.<br />
On the last Thursday before Lent, but also throughout the Carnival<br />
when the festivities are incredible, culminating with the burning of the<br />
carnival king.<br />
The Easter period has a unique charm in the Cycladic islands, with the<br />
simple grandeur of the Epitaph procession through the freshlywhitened<br />
alleyways, and the festivities and dances following Easter.<br />
13
Ideas and suggestions for each day<br />
Where else can you experience so much in just 7 days?<br />
Let's suppose you have a week's holidays in the <strong>Cyclades</strong>. Wherever you are…it's<br />
beautiful!!! The light, the colours, the sky, the sea, the life, scents, are all overwhelming.<br />
Your first day will be great - whatever you do will be different from the routine you escaped<br />
from!! A coffee or a drink at a place with a view, a nice meal, an evening walk, a swim and a<br />
night out are the least of your treats.<br />
A piece of advice<br />
Tomorrow is another day. You can have a great time tomorrow too, maybe even better.<br />
Don't overdo it on food, drinking, sunbathing, walks.<br />
A tip<br />
Meet people. It could change your schedule, you might make great friends, get to know a<br />
“guide” to the island's beauties, fall in love, make arrangements for the next morning.<br />
14
Day<br />
One<br />
If you're in Syros, spend the first day in Ermoupoli. Go up the hill to enjoy the view and<br />
your meal, walk around the town, and you'll see that it was the perfect choice. Stroll around<br />
the town in the evening, the city is magical when all lit up.<br />
If you're in Tinos, don't waste even one day. Enjoy local specialities for lunch or dinner.<br />
Then start planning trips to the inland and the numerous wonderful villages of the island.<br />
If you're in Mykonos, better drive around the island to see its beauties on the first day,<br />
otherwise you might get lost in clubbing and leave the island before you've had the chance<br />
to experience anything more than the classic Chora-Paradise trip.<br />
You should definitely visit Delos, the open-air museum of all ancient Mediterranean<br />
civilisations. You'll be amazed how art and history are intertwined at every step you take.<br />
15
Nature at its best.<br />
There is much to see and enjoy. Each island has beauties, awaiting you with almost step<br />
you take. Walk up the mountain, to the next beach, visit the next village, go diving.<br />
The <strong>Cyclades</strong> are not just about sights or beaches as is the case with other tourist<br />
destinations. So keep your eyes open.<br />
A house, a beach, a chapel, the sea, are all images that add to the beauty of our lives. Take<br />
a closer look. An architectural ornament, an icon, the flicker of light on water, every detail is<br />
a picture within the picture, another expression of beauty.<br />
A tip<br />
Follow the <strong>Guide</strong> on the <strong>Cyclades</strong>, or take the advice of locals, who are always willing to<br />
help. You will definitely create your own personal photo album, with your own view of<br />
beauty.<br />
16
Discover more of it.<br />
Day<br />
Two<br />
Walk around and find hundreds of details that make Sifnos special. Each corner in<br />
Apollonia, the capital, hides a different sight, bathed in bright light. Visit the monastery of<br />
Profitis Ilias and enjoy the overwhelming view. Move down to Kastro, a castle built on a<br />
rock, an open-air museum of history and art.<br />
In Milos you will discover more definitions of 'beautiful nature'. Sarakiniko, Kleftiko, the<br />
cave of Papafrangas, Smaragdenia Spilia (Emerald Cave) are only few of the numerous<br />
places to visit.<br />
In Amorgos there is much more to see than the deep blue sea. There are several walking<br />
routes offering a breathtaking view. Every village hides places untouched by time. Visit<br />
Potamos for amazing sunsets, and the surrounding islets are literally enchanting.<br />
Walking in Folegandros you'll enjoy the simple grandeur of nature, discover numerous<br />
beautiful beaches and be speechless at your first sight of Chrysospilia, one of the largest<br />
caves in Greece.<br />
17
Holidays all day long<br />
Life at its fullest, only in the <strong>Cyclades</strong>. Every minute of your holidays is a minute of leisure.<br />
The window in your room becomes a frame that captures pictures of leisure, the sea, or an<br />
alley. The same happens wherever you sit for breakfast, coffee, lunch or dinner.<br />
Whichever alley you walk along, you'll find a castle, a museum, a wonderful architectural<br />
detail, a lively and colourful garden. Whatever route you take, you'll reach a beautiful<br />
beach or a place with an amazing view. Whichever island you visit, you'll have the chance<br />
to experience customs and festivities, taste delicious treats. But most importantly, you'll<br />
meet nice and hospitable people, you'll be carried away by legends, caves, heroes…<br />
Every single moment of your stay in the <strong>Cyclades</strong> will be meaningful.<br />
A tip<br />
Don't get stressed. Don't be in a hurry to squeeze everything in, don't push yourself. There<br />
is no event, no pre-determined trip, nothing you'll miss. Every moment, every detail will still<br />
be here tomorrow, waiting for your next visit.<br />
18
Where else can you see it happening?!<br />
Day<br />
Three<br />
A visit to Thirasia does not mean less time for your stay in Santorini. Here you can<br />
experience unique moments, walk through the vineyards, enjoy the wild beauty of lava,<br />
taste delicious titbits at the taverns, the exceptional wine, look at the view of Santorini and<br />
the caldera.<br />
In Serifos, the simplest of things become wonderful because they're genuine. From the<br />
warm welcome and food, to flowers and houses, whatever you see in Serifos is a pleasant<br />
experience.<br />
Sikinos is small but all-embracing, and you'll get to see and enjoy everything. The beauty<br />
of its nature, the cave of Mavri Spilia, the local delicacies, the feasts, the sea, and squid<br />
fishing every autumn.<br />
In Donoussa, this island of the East <strong>Cyclades</strong>, you'll have plenty of time to meet all the<br />
residents and join them in the delights of life on this small island, in all daily activities – from<br />
swimming to meals – and in all unexpected happenings, feasts and diving.<br />
19
To have a wonderful time…<br />
Here's an idea for a real vacation that could only happen in the <strong>Cyclades</strong>. Do the opposite<br />
of what you are used to. If you're a clubber, visit a monastery. If you dream about lying on<br />
the beach, visit a museum. If you want luxury, take a trip to an islet by boat. If you're a city<br />
person, go fishing. If you're a loner, go to a festival.<br />
You'll have a great time, that's for sure. Of course, you won't change the type of vacation,<br />
but you'll experience something which, although unplanned, is charming, beautiful,<br />
exciting, vivid, fascinating. Because the <strong>Cyclades</strong> are a combination of things, and if you<br />
like one of them, you will definitely get to like the rest as well!<br />
A tip<br />
Wherever you are, it is easy to find a way to escape routine. The museum is just around the<br />
corner, the next feast is…a few hours away, opposites meet on the same track. If you like<br />
to, it's a piece of cake to re-schedule. This is the <strong>Cyclades</strong>…<br />
20
Go for the extremes!<br />
Day<br />
Four<br />
If you're looking for calm and peaceful holidays, Anafi is the place to enjoy them. However,<br />
don't miss the feast, have a glass of wine, and you'll surely be carried away by the music.<br />
Join the dance and have the time of your life till the early hours.<br />
Paros is the island for surfers, clubbers, pilgrims, families, unconventional types, and<br />
those looking for luxury. Well, they all have plenty of chances to try – and enjoy - something<br />
different. Museums, traditional settlements, chapels, but also diving schools, kite surfing,<br />
and hiking, are available for all.<br />
In Iraklia, this remote island, you can enjoy unique experiences. Join the evening prayer<br />
on the 28th of August inside the cave of Agios Ioannis, go diving in Alimia, live like a true<br />
farmer by taking part in the grape and honey harvest.<br />
If you visit Ios, you'll keep running into acquaintances and neighbours. But there's so<br />
much to do, following your own schedule. You should definitely visit the less touristic<br />
corners of the island.<br />
21
Holidays in the <strong>Cyclades</strong><br />
Life in the <strong>Cyclades</strong> tastes different, literally and metaphorically. Metaphorically because<br />
the <strong>Cyclades</strong> are ideal for holidays, long or short, alone or with company, for relaxation or<br />
partying. Literally because every time you sit at a Cycladic table, the food is delightful.<br />
You can easily avoid fast food. You can find fine and delicious dishes, without wasting time,<br />
effort and money.<br />
And all this thanks to the generous sea, nature with its tasteful and delicious bounty,<br />
recipes which accentuate the taste of ingredients to make original and balanced dishes,<br />
brought to perfection with the enjoyment and careful attention of home-makers from<br />
generation to generation.<br />
A tip<br />
Trust the tavern owner who speaks highly of his tavern, try the local specialities and don't<br />
miss the chance to taste local wines.<br />
22
will satisfy all tastes<br />
Day<br />
Five<br />
On every island you will find fresh fish and seafood, as well as fine specialities that are<br />
worth looking for and trying.<br />
In Schinoussa, you should definitely try octopus with pasta, and all other dishes – the<br />
island produces exceptional livestock and agricultural products.<br />
For many reasons, you should consider spending a few days in Kythnos. Make sure you<br />
try the sausages, the savoro fish, the sfougato cheese croquettes, the pitaro cheese pie,<br />
syglina, and the famous macaroons.<br />
In Kimolos, you will love ladenia pie – baked bread with tomato, onion and oil –, xyno, a<br />
type of sour cheese, and manouri cheese, the limpet risotto, and red mullet with capers.<br />
These are just a few of the dishes that the people of Kimolos take pride in.<br />
In Antiparos, you will enjoy octopus, cooked in several different ways. In particular, don't<br />
miss the opportunity to try wild rabbit cooked in wine, patido rooster, carnival ravioli, and<br />
the delicious cheeses.<br />
23
In the <strong>Cyclades</strong>, holidays<br />
No effort is needed to combine holidays with culture in the <strong>Cyclades</strong>.<br />
Culture is there, ever-present in everyday life. It may be subtle, it may not seek attention,<br />
but it is always there. It has influenced the way that houses and castles are built, it has put<br />
words in songs and sounds to music, it has filled the numerous museums, it has placed<br />
settlements and ancient cities on the map, it has built characters and attitudes and<br />
mindsets, it has decorated houses and clothes and embroideries with its patterns, it has<br />
named islands and locations.<br />
The people of the <strong>Cyclades</strong> are not concerned with preserving their culture or living under<br />
the burden of their heritage. Their lives are intertwined with their culture, which they are<br />
eager to share with all visitors.<br />
A tip<br />
If you don't see much in a 3,000 year old mosaic, if you are not fascinated by a building that<br />
has been standing since prehistoric times, if classical sculptures don't take your breath<br />
away, if you don't see art in architecture, sculpting, music and dance…no worries! You will<br />
still have a good time in the <strong>Cyclades</strong>. But you won't understand the true meaning of the<br />
<strong>Cyclades</strong>, they will not get “under your skin”.<br />
24
lend in with culture<br />
Day<br />
Six<br />
In Kea, lovers of culture and history, of folk oral and music tradition, will find a heaven in the<br />
Festival of Fairy Tales organised every year. The natural setting of this festival comprises<br />
the paths of the island, which make up one of the largest organised network of paths in the<br />
Aegean.<br />
In Santorini you can study the history of art and culture. At Akrotiri, an ancient city that<br />
thrived in the 2nd millennium BC was discovered, destroyed by a volcanic eruption and<br />
buried under the ashes, just like Pompeii! The world-famous frescoes salvaged are the<br />
Fisherman, the House of the Ladies, the Boxing Boys, Spring, the Blue Monkeys.<br />
Traditional Santorini weddings are also organised in Akrotiri.<br />
Even on the uninhabited island of Keros, culture is present. The island was considered to<br />
be sacred during the Early Cycladic Period and it is here that the famous figurines of the<br />
Flute Player and the Harp Player were discovered.<br />
Ancient remains and signs of culture can be seen in everyday life on every island of the<br />
<strong>Cyclades</strong>.<br />
25
Another day, another island<br />
You can make one day the holiday within your holidays. Pop over to the closest island. It is<br />
usually very easy, and there's always more than one “neighbouring island”.<br />
On the neighbouring island you'll have a great time. It is one more island of the <strong>Cyclades</strong>,<br />
but it is different, because each island is a world of its own. The sun and the sea might be<br />
the same, but everything else can be different. The neighbouring island will have different<br />
specialities, different beaches, it could also have waterfalls or cedar forests, volcanos or<br />
mines, caves or peaks.<br />
Everything can be familiar and different at the same time.<br />
Just think that Mykonos is right next to Tinos, Thirasia next to Santorini, and Kea next to<br />
Attica. Once you've been there, you will realise how similar and different the islands of<br />
<strong>Cyclades</strong> can be. It is a never-ending cycle.<br />
A tip<br />
Get prepared for your visit by making a schedule, or simply follow your impulse. One way<br />
or another, your day will be full of small miracles, either ones that you seek or ones that<br />
come as a surprise.<br />
26
Day<br />
Seven<br />
Of course, you can experience pleasant surprises all on the same island. For example,<br />
Naxos, the largest island in the <strong>Cyclades</strong>, shows many different faces and unique sights –<br />
from ancient remains, museums and natural landscapes, to beaches for surfing, feasts<br />
and parties.<br />
Once in Koufonissia, you should definitely visit both Pano and Kato Koufonissi, as well as<br />
the other islands of the Small Eastern <strong>Cyclades</strong>. The trip is easy and delightful and,<br />
regardless of your destination, it is more than worth a visit.<br />
Andros is the perfect destination even for a day's trip! It is so close to Attica that you can go<br />
in the morning, enjoy nature, art, the environment and good food, and leave in the evening.<br />
However, it is worth spending much more time there.<br />
Also, the <strong>Cyclades</strong> are not a seasonal destination. So don't worry about which time of the<br />
year to visit, all islands have life, sights worth seeing and beauty all year round.<br />
27
www.andros.gr<br />
CHAT ROOM<br />
“Andros”<br />
“Unbelievable. You can get there from Rafina in just one hour”<br />
“I'm telling you, the wind was crazy on the first day, but it was wonderful”<br />
“I was there for a modern art exhibition and fell in love with the island.<br />
Why don't we go to Andros this year?”<br />
“Green in the <strong>Cyclades</strong>? You mean something taller than herbs??”<br />
“Yes, green! There are waterfalls too!!!”<br />
“Bring back some cheese and sausages!”<br />
Get recommendations<br />
“Andros is so close that it didn't sound very<br />
convincing for holidays. And people kept telling me<br />
about museums and sailing, so it was out of the<br />
question. But when I first went there – dragged by<br />
my ex actually – I totally changed my mind. It is<br />
absolutely beautiful, the food is out of this world<br />
and it's lively too. I happened to be at a feast, and<br />
had a great time dancing traditional dances. Such<br />
an embarrassment for a rocker!!”“<br />
28<br />
How to get there<br />
Gavrio is linked with Rafina by daily ferries<br />
(the trip lasts 2 hours, or 1 hour by fast<br />
boat).<br />
There are also direct routes to Tinos,<br />
Mykonos, Syros and (less frequently) to<br />
other islands of the <strong>Cyclades</strong>.
A N D R O S<br />
Andros offers you its culture<br />
Andros is the most northern island of the <strong>Cyclades</strong>, an all-green island,<br />
thanks to its abundant surface and underground water. This special<br />
natural environment has preserved an imposing cultural heritage and a<br />
rich marine tradition, with numerous ship owners and sailors, painters,<br />
sculptors and scholars hailing from Andros. Andros has been accurately<br />
characterised as a “floating cultural museum”.<br />
The capital of Andros is Chora, a beautiful settlement that combines<br />
traditional Cycladic architecture with neoclassical mansions. The seaside<br />
settlements of Gavrio, the main port of Andros, and Batsi are located in the<br />
northern part of the island and accommodate its main tourism<br />
infrastructure.<br />
Dominating the southern part of the island, Korthi bay is a picturesque<br />
village with a long beach which has developed into a tourism centre.<br />
Sights worth seeing<br />
In Chora, the houses feature red roof tiles, which adds one more touch of<br />
colour to the already colourful frame of the Cycladic landscape. At the tip of<br />
the peninsula, a small stone-built bridge links Chora with the isle where<br />
Kastro (the Castle) was built by the Venetian Marino Dandolo in 1207.<br />
Numerous byzantine churches adorn Hora, while important finds from the<br />
island's rich cultural heritage are exhibited at the Archaeological Museum,<br />
29
30<br />
including the famous statue of the Hermes of Andros. The Goulandri Museum<br />
of Modern Art organises internationally-known exhibitions, while the Maritime<br />
Museum presents the rich marine tradition of the island. The sights of Chora<br />
include the Kairis Library with manuscripts, rare editions and works of art, the<br />
Folklore and Christian Art Museum, the Kidoniefs Foundation, the Kambanis<br />
fountain from 1818, the Tourlitis lighthouse, and the bronze statue of the<br />
Unknown Sailor.<br />
Architecture<br />
In Andros, typical Aegean houses alternate with neoclassical buildings,<br />
Venetian castle-houses and stone-built houses. Dry-stone walls and terraces,<br />
konakia (small farm buildings), fountains with the characteristic feature of<br />
bousounari, or sheltered water mills, stone-built bridges and dovecotes<br />
uniquely adorn the landscape of Andros.<br />
Noteworthy is the imposing Tower of Agios Petros, a classical-Hellenistic<br />
20m-high observatory with a spiral internal staircase, located about 3<br />
kilometres northeast of Gavrio.<br />
1<br />
2<br />
3<br />
Beautiful routes for all<br />
Chora-Ypsilou-Mesathouri-Lamyra-Menites–Mesaria-Fallika-<br />
Panachrantos Monastery<br />
Mesathouri features the Byzantine church of the Assumption of the Virgin<br />
Mary, dating back to the 12th-13th century, with Paleochristian Ionian capitals.<br />
In Mesaria, an economic and trading centre in Byzantine years, one can see<br />
the church of the Archangel Michael, dating back to the 12th century, and the<br />
Tower of Lorentzos Kairis from the 18th century. In the village of Aladino, at the<br />
foothills of mount Gerakonas, the Foros cave boasts impressive stalactites. In<br />
Fallika stands the monastery of Panachrantos, established in the 10th century<br />
by the Byzantine emperor Nikiforos Fokas and the oldest monastery of<br />
Andros. The skull of Agios Panteleimon is kept at the monastery.<br />
Vourkoti-Katakalei-Apikia-Chora<br />
Northeast of the village of Apikia is the monastery of Agios Nikolaos of Sora,<br />
dating back to 1600, featuring a carved<br />
screen and a rich library with ancient<br />
scripts.<br />
Chora-Syneti-Dipotamata (Apano<br />
Kastro)-Kochylou-Korthi bay<br />
The valley of Dipotamata is enchanting<br />
with its paths, dovecotes, bridges and<br />
numerous water mills (declared a<br />
protected area). Apano Kastro, a Venetian
A n d r o s<br />
fort on the plateau north of Korthi bay, was the largest fortified city of Andros,<br />
Achla, a small lake at the current<br />
and could accommodate 1,000 people!<br />
delta shelters aquatic migratory<br />
birds.<br />
4<br />
Aidonia-Korthi-Mosionas-Amonakliou-(Halkeo)-Piso Meria-Tromarchia<br />
Monastery<br />
7<br />
Agia Triada-Zagora-Plaka<br />
In Korthi, Agia Triada has accommodated perhaps the only pre-revolution<br />
Zagora is one of the most<br />
school of the island since 1813. The 18th century fortified monastery of<br />
ancient settlements of Andros<br />
Tromarchia, dedicated to the Assumption of the Virgin Mary, is located in a<br />
(10th-8th century BC), and the economic and administrative centre of the<br />
wonderful landscape with waterways and rich vegetation.<br />
island up to the classical period, subsequently relocated to Paleopoli. The<br />
settlement is protected by powerful walls, which makes it one of the best<br />
5<br />
Exo Vouni–Mesa Vouni-Gianniseo-Lardia-Rogo-Korthi bay<br />
preserved fortifications of the Geometric Period in the Aegean.<br />
6<br />
Vourkoti-Agios Nikolaos Monastery-Achla beach<br />
Near Achla beach is located the Byzantine monastery of Agios Nikolaos,<br />
dating back to the 14th century, with fine murals and a carved screen. In<br />
8<br />
Apikia-Apatouria-Stenies-Gialia<br />
In Apatouria one can admire the stone-built bridges, the imposing mansions<br />
and the impressive Pithara gorge. In Stenies, the village with the mansions of<br />
captains, stands the imposing Bistis-Mouvelas Tower, a three-storey building<br />
from the 17th century, a rare example of fortified house in Andros.<br />
9<br />
Aprovatos-Paleopoli-Melida-Pitrofos-Ano Menites-Strapourgies<br />
Ruins of a settlement and a fortified citadel with a temple from the 6th century<br />
BC were found on the hill in the area of Aprovatos.<br />
Paleopoli was the town of Andros, the centre of all activities on the island from<br />
the 7th century BC until the early Byzantine period. It was there were the<br />
impressive statue of Ermis was found, currently exhibited at the<br />
31
Archaeological Museum in Chora. The fortification walls of the citadel are<br />
salvaged, while ruins of the ancient port can be still seen in the sea. The<br />
Archaeological Museum of Paleopoli operates in the area. In Melida, a<br />
location rich in waterways and vegetation, lies the Taxiarchis church from the<br />
10th century, where a mural of the Virgin Mary holding the Infant Jesus (12th<br />
century) can be seen on the altar.<br />
10 Strapourgies-Taxiarchis-Evrousies<br />
For action-lovers<br />
Andros's wonderful beaches offer many alternatives for good swimming,<br />
diving in magical waters and underwater fishing. The most beautiful ones<br />
include "Pidima tis Grias", which demonstrates striking erosion formations on<br />
the rocks, the beach of Gavrio, Fellos bay, Chrysi Ammos, the beaches in<br />
Batsi, Agia Marina, Paleopoli, the Korthi bay, Agia Ekaterini, and the bays of<br />
Kalamonari and Bouro.<br />
The waters of Andros are ideal for friends of water sports for sailing, surfing,<br />
canoeing or water skiing. An international sailing competition takes place on<br />
the last weekend of every August, organised by the Andros Yacht Club.<br />
Celebrations and festivities<br />
Andros has a great variety of festivities, showing off its cultural tradition whilst<br />
offering many opportunities for spontaneous celebrations and fun at the<br />
11 Batsi-Katakilos-Arni<br />
Batsi, an old fishermen's village on the west coast of Andros, is currently the<br />
largest tourism centre of the island. Sights include the 14th century<br />
Zoodochos Pigi Monasteryy, where holy vessels and numerous manuscripts<br />
are kept.<br />
In the village of Remata in Katakilos visitors can see the renovated olive press<br />
of Lembesis.<br />
12 Arni-Profitis Ilias-Vourkoti<br />
32
A n d r o s<br />
numerous local feasts, where people dance the traditional syrtos and balos<br />
until the early hours. The celebration of Panagia Theoskepastos in Chora is<br />
one of the most significant, as is the Saturday of the Akathist Hymn which<br />
includes processions, folk dances and a torch-light procession, following the<br />
partying of the carnival.<br />
The culture of festivals<br />
In Paleopoli and in the area of Korthi Bay, on Easter Sunday the locals play<br />
“tsounia”, a traditional game similar to bowling. On the 24th of June, the<br />
traditional custom of fortune telling known as "klidonas" takes place in Chora<br />
and in the villages of Korthi. Towards the end of autumn and before<br />
Christmas, pig slaughtering takes place all over the island, accompanied by<br />
feasts, a vivid custom whose roots date from the Byzantine period.<br />
Several local events take place during the summer months: “Gavriotika” takes<br />
place in Gavrio, with contests, fairs, and wine celebrations, the serving of<br />
kakavia (traditional fish soup), and the traditional fourtalia omelette. In<br />
Mesaria, the “Fourtalia Feast” is organised, while in Fallika the “Aegean Sea<br />
Cuisine Festival” takes place during the summer months, offering delicious<br />
dishes.<br />
or christening, try soumada; in Easter try “lambriatis”, a recipe with lamb<br />
stuffed with cheese, eggs, wild greens, dill and mint, baked in a traditional<br />
oven.<br />
ONLY IN ANDROS<br />
Visit the Strofilas plateau at the centre of the island, where the largest neolithic<br />
settlement of the Aegean Sea is preserved. The oldest rock paintings<br />
depicting ships, animals and linear shapes were recently found at this<br />
settlement.<br />
Also, in addition to the mouthwatering traditional fourtalia omelette, try the<br />
local cheeses of petroti, volaki and malachto, the delicious smoked sausages,<br />
the famous wine from the village of Syneti, while at Easter enjoy ”lambriatis",<br />
the traditional stuffed lamb with cheese, wild greens, eggs, dill and mint,<br />
baked in a traditional oven.<br />
Tastes<br />
Enjoy the unique flavours of macaroons and kaltsounia, local preserves, and<br />
the fine honey of Agios Petros. If you happen to attend a traditional wedding<br />
Let's go to Tinos...<br />
Only a stone's throw away!!!<br />
33
www.tinos.gr<br />
CHAT ROOM<br />
“Tinos”<br />
Should we come to Tinos?<br />
Absolutely!<br />
It sound good, but will we have a good time?<br />
It has everything. I'm coming again next year…<br />
Come on! Is it so good?<br />
Everyone's heard about Tinos, but they know nothing about holidaying there.<br />
Get recommendations<br />
Tinos charms and enchants. Wherever you<br />
go, either by car or on foot, it's worth the<br />
effort. See, hear, smell, taste, feel. Don't miss<br />
the festivals, never tire of trying new tastes,<br />
expect nothing less than everyday miracles.<br />
How to get there<br />
There are ferries and high speed boats<br />
from Piraeus, Rafina, Thessaloniki, Lavrio,<br />
and many islands of the <strong>Cyclades</strong> and<br />
Crete.<br />
34
Ô I Í Ï S<br />
Between Andros and Mykonos lies an island which Virgin Mary graced<br />
with her glory and radiance, not only for Greece, but for the entire<br />
Orthodox world. However, Tinos as a whole, with its special character<br />
and natural beauties, remains unknown, waiting for visitors to unveil<br />
its attractions, found in the picturesque alleys, the works of art all over<br />
the island, the all-white villages, the breathtaking beaches and paths,<br />
where chapels and monasteries alternate with windmills and<br />
dovecotes, all with a view of the deep blue Aegean Sea.<br />
The entire island of Tinos is a museum: beautiful villages with arches<br />
and fountains, houses with stone-built archways and blooming<br />
terraces, picturesque cafes, hill-top chapels and nestled in verdant<br />
gorges, the granite rock of Xombourgo. The villages of Tinos are<br />
scattered around the island, relatively close to one another, linked<br />
with exceptionally beautiful preserved paths.<br />
A good wind brings you here<br />
According to mythology, Tinos was the home of Aeolus, the god of<br />
wind, but the traces of the first settlement on the island date back to<br />
the neolithic and Early Cycladic periods.<br />
The capital and port of the island is Chora, a beautiful town with<br />
stone-paved alleys, typical Cycladic houses and old mansions.<br />
There are many shops along the quay, while two wide roads lead<br />
uphill to the grand, white marble church of Panagia Evangelistria. In<br />
the church of Panagia is a vestry with highly valued ecclesiastical<br />
35
Tzados-Kechros<br />
A wonderful route that will initially lead you to Triantaros, where the view<br />
from the altitude of 500 metres to the Aegean Sea is breathtaking. The old<br />
municipal laundries of the villages are used up to the present day! Arnados<br />
is a small,charming village with traditional arches and alleys.<br />
and historical objects, and a library with rare books, while the Museum<br />
of Tinos Artists exhibits great works of artists born on the island<br />
(Halepas, Lytras, Gyzis, etc). Near the church entrance is a monument<br />
dedicated to the crew of the ship “Elli”, which was torpedoed in 1940 in<br />
the port of Tinos.<br />
Near the church dedicated to Virgin Mary, at Poles, are visible the citadel<br />
walls from the 4th century BC and the archaeological museum houses<br />
ancient sculptures, amazing vessels from Demetra's sanctuary (route<br />
8), a sundial from Poseidon's sanctuary (route 5), and other very<br />
important finds.<br />
The town has a large number of churches, including Agios Ioannis,<br />
Taxiarches, whose screen dates back to the 18th century, and the<br />
churches of the Catholic saints Agios Nikolaos and Agios Antonios.<br />
2 Steni-Mesi-Falatados or Steni Volakas or Steni-Myrsini-Potamia 1.a.<br />
In Falatados, one of the largest and most imposing villages of Tinos,<br />
dating back to 1400, visit the marble-built church of Agios Ioannis and the<br />
church of Agia Triada (1610) – the largest church in Tinos – and try the<br />
local “fourtalia” omelette and the famous “rozaki” grape. The church of<br />
Agios Antonios in Steni has a 17th century carved screen, wonderful<br />
epitaph and old icons.<br />
3 Kambos-Tarambados-Smardakito-Kardiani-Isternia-Platia Pyrgos-<br />
Panormos.<br />
In Kambos lies the church of Agia Ekaterini, dating back to 1775,<br />
decorated with a carved screen and excellent icons. In Kambos and<br />
Tarambados are the most beautiful dovecotes of the island, their ornate<br />
1<br />
Routes for all<br />
Karya-Mountados-Triantaros-Dyo Choria-Arnados-Monastiri-<br />
36
decorations making perfect use of light and shade.<br />
Kardiani is a beautiful village built on rocks with an amazing view of the<br />
sea. Built in the 17th century, here the church of Panagia of Kioura<br />
Kardiani has stood for more than a thousand years. A 9th-8th century<br />
BC cemetery is also located there.<br />
At Isternia, a hill-top settlement with old mills and an amazing sea view,<br />
stands the monastery of Panagia Katapoliani, dating to 1786, as well as<br />
the church of Defteras Evreseos, Agia Paraskevi with its fine screen,<br />
Agios Athanasios (one of the oldest churches in Tinos) and the Artists'<br />
Museum. Enjoy the sea and sand at Isternia bay.<br />
The house of the greatest sculptor in modern years, Giannoulis<br />
Halepas, today operates as a museum. It is located in Pyrgos, the<br />
largest and perhaps the most picturesque village of Tinos, with marblepaved<br />
roads, fountains, all-white houses with marble staircases and<br />
lintels. The Artists' Museum in Pyrgos exhibits numerous works of art,<br />
mainly plaster casts.<br />
4<br />
Ô i n o s<br />
The route ends at the picturesque fishermen's village of Panormos, with<br />
small houses built around the cove. In Panormos is a cave with<br />
stalactites, stalagmites and an atmospheric iridescence from the few<br />
rays of light that find their way in.<br />
Kechrovounio Monastery-Tsiknias<br />
The Kechrovounio Monastery, dedicated to the Assumption of the Virgin<br />
Mary, is one of the most historically significant buildings in Tinos. The<br />
church was established in the 10th-11th century and has a carved screen<br />
with post-Byzantine icons and a Russian epitaph from 1558. All the<br />
buildings of the monastery follow the Cycladic architectural forms:<br />
square-shaped structures, narrow alleys, marble fountains, which form<br />
the image of a Cycladic village. Inside the monastery is the church of<br />
Osia Pelagia, the saint whose vision led to the discovery of the icon of the<br />
Virgin Mary. It contains a rich ecclesiastical collection with remarkable<br />
portable icons and objects from ecclesiastic and hermitage life.<br />
The church of Faneromeni, a church for both Catholic and Orthodox<br />
believers, is located on the mountain of Tsiknias (the highest peak on the<br />
island at 727m).<br />
5 Chora-Kionia<br />
In Kionia, a verdant village with an echanting sea view and excellent<br />
beach, can be seen the ruins of the temple of Poseidon and Ámphitrite,<br />
as well as other buildings from the 4th-1st century BC.<br />
37
island (11th-3rd century BC). Excavations revealed an 8th century BC<br />
sanctuary dedicated to Demetra and Persephone. On the site of the<br />
ancient citadel are the ruins of a Venetian fort built in 1207, with two huge<br />
walls, between which the medieval capital of Tinos was built.<br />
6<br />
7<br />
Chora-Gyrla Monastery-Porto<br />
The Gyrla Monastery (Agia Triada) is located east of Chora. It was<br />
established in the 11th century, and features a fine carved screen and<br />
rare icons. The monastery houses the Folk Architecture Museum of<br />
Tinos, with a collection of marble lintels. The old Venetian port of Agios<br />
Ioannis with its wonderful beach is located in Porto.<br />
Kalloni–Agios Romanos bay<br />
In Agios Romanos lies the church of Panagia Vrysiotissa, a place of<br />
worship for Catholics, with the icon of Virgin Mary found in the 17th<br />
century. The route ends at a beautiful beach.<br />
So much to see<br />
In Ktikados, the arches, the stone-paved alleys, the houses with their<br />
marble lintels and the old fountain with the stone-built bowl add unique<br />
beauty and allure.<br />
In Xinara, the seat of the Tinos Catholic Archdiocese, lies the Catholic<br />
cathedral of Tinos, dedicated to the Panagia of Rosarium.<br />
In Loutra, a village surrounded by greenery, lies the Ursuline Convent,<br />
established in 1862 and currently housing a folk museum.<br />
Monastiria, an abandoned village, became an artistic attraction after the<br />
artistic intervention of K. Tsoklis.<br />
An amazing beach extends along the double bay of Kolimbithra to the<br />
north, where swimming is pure pleasure.<br />
Lovers of sea trips can take their own or local boats to sail around the<br />
island, see the five weathered caves at Spilia, or the coastal cave of<br />
Faneromeni at the foot of mount Tsiknias, or even visit Delos or Mykonos.<br />
8 Tripotamos-Xombourgo<br />
In Exomvourgo or Xombourgo (meaning outside the castle from the<br />
Italian word burgo), on a steep granite rock at 640 metres and offering<br />
an impressive view, are the ruins of the most important ancient city of the<br />
Feasts and flavours<br />
The feasts taking place at the 750 churches of Tinos, 220 of which are<br />
Catholic, are innumerable.<br />
38
Ô i n o s<br />
At the centre of festivities on the island are the celebrations for the Virgin<br />
Mary: on 30 January, the discovery of the Virgin's icon, with a lantern<br />
procession around Chora; on 25 March, the Annunciation; on 23 July,<br />
the festivities dedicated to Agia Pelagia when a night procession of the<br />
Virgin's icon takes place from the Kechrovouni Monastery to Chora; and<br />
on 15 August, the Assumption of the Virgin Mary, when Tinos becomes<br />
the centre of celebrations for all Greeks.<br />
On the last Thursday before Lent, people in Triantaros revive Alfavitari<br />
tis Agapis (the primer of love), where dancers form a circle and sing<br />
mocking verses. In Falatados, on Tyrini day, when only dairy products<br />
are consumed, a great traditional carnival is organised. If you are in<br />
Ktikados on Easter Monday, you will experience the custom of the Table<br />
of Love, where both Orthodox and Catholics sit around the same table.<br />
The famous custom of “Kavos”, demonstrating elements from the early<br />
Christian and the medieval periods, as well as elements seen in Mount<br />
Athos, takes place in Tripotamos at Christmas.<br />
Tinos is renown for its special dairy and salami products, and for the fine<br />
white wines askathari and aspropotamisio. At the traditional taverns of<br />
the island, have fresh fish and sun-dried tomatoes, local cheese, louza<br />
(a type of salt pork), sausage and the froutalia omelette. At Easter,<br />
women make the so-called “lychnarakia” (sweet cheese-pies with fresh<br />
skimmed-milk cheese and cinnamon, orange or vanilla), while at<br />
Christmas they serve “finikia”, a variation of the traditional Greek<br />
melomakarona, using local thyme honey.<br />
ONLY IN TINOS<br />
A masterpiece of Cycladic<br />
architecture, and the first architectural<br />
monument of modern Greece, is the<br />
church of Panagia Evangelistria. It was<br />
built in 1823, following the discovery of<br />
the miraculous icon of the Virgin Mary,<br />
and gradually attained its current glory<br />
as a panorthodox pilgrimage. Below<br />
the church of Panagia is the church of Evreseos, built on the foundations<br />
of an Early-Christian church which was, in turn, built on the ruins of an<br />
ancient sanctuary dedicated to Dionysos.<br />
In the beautiful village of Volakas, you will be impressed by the lunar<br />
landscape with its strange and unique granite boulders. You can also<br />
discover more about the traditional art of wickerwork.<br />
Let's go to Mykonos…<br />
Only a stone's throw away!!!<br />
39
www.mykonos.gr<br />
CHAT ROOM<br />
“Mykonos”<br />
Mykonos, and Mykonos only<br />
Half the planet goes to Mykonos…<br />
We don't mind. We'll follow our own schedule.<br />
I'm not that trendy, I'm more of a nature lover.<br />
Us too, but that's no reason not to go. People from all over the<br />
world want to go to Mykonos, but for us it's so close!<br />
At least we should go earlier, we'll have a great time<br />
Get recommendations<br />
Mykonos is a wonderful Cycladic island,<br />
worth visiting at any time of the year.<br />
However it is a must to enjoy the days of its<br />
summer glory, when it literally becomes an<br />
international village, when its community of<br />
believers make it a sight worth seeing,<br />
when one can experience the unique<br />
feeling that everything and everyone is in<br />
Mykonos.<br />
How to get there<br />
You can get to Mykonos by plane from the<br />
Eleftherios Venizelos airport, by ferry from<br />
Pireaus, Rafina and Thessaloniki, and by<br />
fast boat from Rafina. The island is<br />
connected with most islands of the Aegean<br />
by ferries and fast boats.<br />
40
Ì Õ Ê Ï Í Ï S<br />
Surrounded by Tinos, Syros, Paros and Naxos, a small island stands<br />
out, globally renown as one of the most popular tourism centres of<br />
the Mediterranean. However, despite its cosmopolitan character,<br />
Mykonos remains a beautiful and picturesque island, whose all-white<br />
Chora lies next to the sea, with golden beaches, friendly and smiling<br />
people, and a continuous link with history lasting for centuries.<br />
Delos is located very close to Mykonos. It was a sacred island for<br />
ancient Greeks where, according to mythology, Leto gave birth to<br />
Apollo. The island was first inhabited in the 3rd millennium BC, and<br />
became a place of worship in the early part of the 10th century BC.<br />
For centuries it was the most important economic and trading centre<br />
of the then known world, until 88 BC when it was severely hit twice<br />
during the Mithridatic Wars which were the beginning of its decline,<br />
resulting in the final abandonment of the island in the 6th century AD.<br />
The entire island is an open-air museum.<br />
There's more to Mykonos<br />
According to mythology, Mykonos was formed by the stony bodies of<br />
the giants killed by Hercules, and was named after Mykonos, the son<br />
of Apollo. Excavations in the area of Ftelia brought to light an<br />
important Neolithic settlement.<br />
41
Gialou which was revamped into neoclassical form in 1908. The sights of<br />
Chora include the bust of Manto Mavrogenous - a Greek heroine during<br />
the War of Independence - the Archaeological Museum including<br />
significant exhibits such as Kyra of Mykonos and the ceramics collection<br />
from the tomb in Rinia, the Folk Museum, the Marine Museum, the<br />
Municipal Library, the Municipal Gallery, the neoclassical building of the<br />
town hall (1785), and the house of Lena, a renovated traditional house<br />
from the 19th century.<br />
42<br />
The island's capital is Chora or Mykonos. Its architecture is<br />
overwhelming from the first moment. Just take a walk in Venetia, in<br />
Alefkandra, one of the first quarters of Chora, and see the houses<br />
literally touching the sea. A walk around the white-washed stone-paved<br />
alleys, among the all-white square-shaped houses with the colourful<br />
doors and windows, the balconies, the staircases and terraces, gives<br />
the impression of a maze, but also of a welcoming place, where your<br />
visual contact is the sea. Further up on a small hill, the imposing mills<br />
stand in a line, looking out to sea. In the port of Chora, a small colourful<br />
fleet of caiques and boats adds another vivid touch to this unique set.<br />
Mykonos is famous for its numerous churches (around 400), and its rich<br />
ecclesiastical architecture. Panagia Paraportiani is a fine sample of the<br />
Cycladic folk architecture. It comprises four ground-level churches<br />
which support the main building of the first floor. Other wonderful<br />
churches include Megali Panagia (cathedral), and Agios Nikolaos<br />
Many destinations at hand<br />
On the west coast of Mykonos, north of Chora, are the holiday<br />
settlements of Tourlos and Agios Stefanos, built along the area's<br />
beaches. The modern port of the island is located in Tourlos. The<br />
settlement of Agios Stefanos climbs up the hill from the beach, a beautiful<br />
spot to enjoy the view of the islands of Tinos, Syros, Rinia.<br />
Two of the busiest beaches on the island, Ornos and Agios Ioannis are<br />
south of Chora. These have developed into almost a single tourism<br />
settlement. Other famous beaches are Platys Gialos and Psarou, with the<br />
respective settlements which act today as a link to a host of services and<br />
itineraries for the popular beaches of Paradise and Super Paradise. The<br />
Catholic church of Panagia, also called Lozaria, was built in 1668 at<br />
Platys Gialos.<br />
Moving inland, the second traditional settlement of Mykonos after Chora<br />
is Ano Mera which extends over a large area around the historical<br />
monastery of Panagia Tourliani.
Ì y k ï n ï ò<br />
Southeast of Ano Mera, opposite the beach of Kalafatis, at Divounia-<br />
Tarsanas, traces of an Early Cycladic citadel are preserved .<br />
slaughtering takes place in October, accompanied by feasts and<br />
celebrations.<br />
Traditional and unique feasts<br />
Despite the spectacular touristic development of the island, the people<br />
of Mykonos are still simple, cheerful and hospitable, and always make<br />
the time needed to maintain their traditions and customs, which is easy<br />
to understand for anyone who spends time with them. The feasts in<br />
Mykonos give entertainment a different dimension. On 6 January,<br />
“Balosia”, a celebration to open the maritime period, takes place in<br />
Chora. On 30 June, the celebration of Agii Apostoli coincides with the<br />
celebration of fishermen, and a large feast is organized on the beach of<br />
Chora, where seafood is served. 26 July is the day of festivities<br />
celebrating Agia Paraskevi in Chora; 15 August is the celebration of<br />
Panagia Tourliani in Ano Mera. The traditional custom of pig<br />
Your table is blessed with the best<br />
The Mykonos cuisine includes many varieties of pork dishes (with<br />
cabbage or wild greens, smoked pork, sausages) and wonderful recipes<br />
for fish and seafood: sea snail casserole or risotto, mackerel with capers,<br />
sea urchins in vinaigrette, clams, mussels. Well known is the spicy<br />
cheese paté “kopanisti”, while fennel croquettes, garlic pasta, asparagus<br />
with eggs, and green fried tomatoes are also delicious dishes. Honey<br />
pie, pasteli and macaroons are the famous sweets of the island. Don't<br />
miss the chance to taste a cool soumada, a drink made using almonds.<br />
The wooden boats and windmills, the wonderful knitted and leather items<br />
– traditional products of Mykonos – will give you some idea of the<br />
souvenirs you can take back home.<br />
Nature and sights<br />
Visitors can enjoy a unique natural environment in Mykonos. The island<br />
is rocky and barren, with only few cultivations (vineyards and small<br />
gardens), rugged beaches, impressive rocks, innumerable chapels,<br />
imposing windmills and small dovecotes. Villages are scattered over the<br />
island's mainland, featuring all-white farmhouses which make an<br />
impressive contrast with the grey granite rocks, the endless dry walls,<br />
43
Lino, southeast of Chora, remains of a settlement have been found,<br />
including a tower with a diameter of 10-11 m, preserved to the height of<br />
four storeys.<br />
3<br />
Platys Gialos-Portes<br />
Two towers with a diameter of 3.5 m lie above Platys Gialos, at Portes.<br />
prickly pears and reeds.<br />
Mykonos accommodates two very important ecosystems: the seaside<br />
wetlands of Panormos and Ftelia which seasonally flood and turn into<br />
small lagoons – important stopping off points for migratory birds.<br />
4<br />
Panormos–Monastery of Agios Panteleimon<br />
North of Chora lies Panormos bay, where finds from the ancient and<br />
classical periods have been discovered. Close to Marathi lies the<br />
monastery of Agios Panteleimon, built in 1665. It is an excellent example<br />
of monastery-fort, with wonderful icons.<br />
1<br />
Routes for all<br />
Delos<br />
Delos is located southwest of Mykonos. It was a sacred island for<br />
ancient Greeks where, according to mythology, Leto gave birth to<br />
Apollo. Here is the famous Lion Terrace with the nine marble lions<br />
offered by the people of Naxos in the 7th century BC, as well as the<br />
sanctuary of Apollo, the temple of Artemis, the Agora of Theophrastus,<br />
the hypostyle hall, the Stoa of Antigonos. The Archaeological Museum<br />
of Delos is today one of the most important museums in Greece.<br />
5<br />
6<br />
Armenistis cave<br />
The 100m high lighthouse which lights the strait between Tinos and<br />
Mykonos, built in 1889, lies on the steep rocks at the point of the<br />
Armenistis cape on the northern side of Mykonos.<br />
Ano Mera-Ftelia<br />
North of Ano Mera, in the area of Ftelia, an important Neolithic settlement<br />
and a Mycenaean grave from the 14th-13th century BC were discovered.<br />
44<br />
2 Chora–Lino tower<br />
Towers from the Hellenistic period are preserved at various locations. In<br />
7 Ano Mera-Paleokastro<br />
A medieval castle lies on the hill of Paleokastro, built on the visible ruins of<br />
an ancient fortification.
Ì y k ï n ï ò<br />
Here the convent of Paleokastro was built in the 18th century, a typical<br />
example of Cycladic monastic architecture.<br />
Sea and action<br />
For lovers of diving, Mykonos is a favourite destination, and there are<br />
organized diving centres operating on the island. Sea sports (surf,<br />
sailing, sea ski) find an ideal place in Mykonos, while numerous other<br />
activities are also available, including tennis and a mini golf course in<br />
Agios Stefanos, as well as horse riding on the beach, organised by the<br />
island's equestrian club.<br />
ONLY IN MYKONOS<br />
If you think you've seen someone that looks famous, then you're<br />
probably right. In Mykonos you'll sit right next to famous actors, singers,<br />
stars, TV personalities, top models.<br />
Yet, behind the glam, Mykonos is calm and wonderful - even in<br />
wintertime.<br />
Let's go to Syros now…<br />
Only a stone's throw away!!!<br />
45
www.syros.net<br />
CHAT ROOM<br />
“Syros”<br />
The last time I was there it seriously crossed my mind not to come back. We can go,<br />
but there is a chance that I'll move there permanently.<br />
It sound good. I'll always have a place for holidays.<br />
I'm serious. I absolutely love this island, it feels like home.<br />
Let's go first, and then we'll see. Whatever happens, we'll have a fantastic time.<br />
I've already made an itinerary of all the great places to visit<br />
You don't need an itinerary - the whole place is magical.<br />
Get recommendations<br />
The main characteristic of Syros is that<br />
everyone who goes there loves it, and<br />
everyone has a good time. Think of this<br />
island like the perfect hostess who takes<br />
care of all the details for her guests, so that<br />
everyone has a good time, no matter the<br />
preferences and the mood of each one. No<br />
invitation is required, Syros is always<br />
welcoming.<br />
How to get there<br />
Syros is connected by air with Athens<br />
Eleftherios Venizelos airport.<br />
It is connected with Piraeus by sea with<br />
ferries and fast boats, whilst there are daily<br />
connections to Tinos, Mykonos and other<br />
islands.<br />
46
S Y R O S<br />
Syros, or Syra, is the geographical, administrative and commercial<br />
centre of the <strong>Cyclades</strong>. With its unique history, its special cultural<br />
heritage and inspiring natural environment, Syros is uniquely<br />
radiant. Visitors can see traditional and cosmopolitan, medieval and<br />
modern, Cycladic and neoclassical elements, in a place where<br />
Catholic and Orthodox traditions co-exist harmoniously.<br />
Syros is a living museum of culture, a “time capsule” that instantly<br />
carries the visitor from one period to the other, in an absolutely<br />
natural, but impressive and intriguing way.<br />
Ermoupoli, the capital, is a city by the sea that charms from the very<br />
first moment, with its imposing neoclassical mansions embracing<br />
the large natural port.<br />
A history of prosperity and growth<br />
Syros is the most densely populated island of the <strong>Cyclades</strong> with<br />
more than 20,000 residents. Homer referred to the island as Syrie;<br />
the oldest signs of settlements date back to the end of the Neolithic<br />
period, between 4000 and 3000 BC. Here the famous Syros-Keros<br />
civilization was developed during the peak of the Cycladic<br />
civilization (3200-2000 BC).<br />
In modern history, in 1207, Syros was conquered by the Venetians.<br />
It's administration was highly privileged during the Turkish<br />
occupation, while it was a French protectorate when the Greek War<br />
of Independence broke out in 1821.<br />
47
48<br />
Ermoupoli is unique<br />
Ermoupoli is the capital of Syros and all islands of the <strong>Cyclades</strong>. It<br />
developed during the War of Independence and soon became a large<br />
transit centre between the East and the West.<br />
With the passage of time, small industries, workshops and the<br />
Neorion shipyards were set up in the city. The economic peak of<br />
Ermoupoli was accompanied by cultural growth, thus resulting in the<br />
formation of the first purely Greek bourgeoisie. This was also depicted<br />
in the architecture of the new city, with impressive results.<br />
Today Ermoupoli forms a monumental architectural set, unique in all<br />
of Greece!<br />
Beauty unveiled on every corner<br />
Towards the heart of the city lies an impressive 19th century square<br />
with the statue of Andreas Miaoulis (1899), a marble music podium<br />
(1907), tall palm trees, and several cafes. The grand three-storey<br />
building of the Town Hall dominates the square. It is an architectural<br />
gem, designed by Ernst Ziller and established in 1876, featuring<br />
towers, a monumental staircase, internal courtyards, colonnades and<br />
galleries. The Town Hall also accommodates the Archaeological<br />
Museum of Ermoupoli.<br />
The “Hellas” club (1862-63) building accommodates the Cultural<br />
Centre of the Municipality of Ermoupoli, a rich Municipal Library, the<br />
"Ermoupoli” art gallery, and the large ball room.<br />
In the area known as Vaporia, a genuinely neoclassical architectural<br />
set with wonderful19th century mansions, lies the sublime church of<br />
Agios Nikolaos (the Rich), established in 1848. This is also the location<br />
of the monument of the Unburied Soldier, a work of the sculptor G.<br />
Vitalis (1880). The famous icon of the Virgin, a signed El Greco piece,<br />
painted in his early period, is exhibited at the church of Kimisi<br />
(Dormition of the Virgin) (1828). Evangelistria is the Catholic cathedral<br />
in Ermoupoli, while the Orthodox cathedral is the church of<br />
Metamorfosi Sotiros (Transformation of the Saviour).<br />
The neoclassical building of the Customs Office (1834) which currently<br />
accommodates the <strong>Cyclades</strong> Art Gallery, the quarantine building with<br />
its impressive architecture, and the Neorion shipyards established in<br />
1860, are all located in the port area.<br />
The ship repair and building yard which continue the island's<br />
shipbuilding tradition are located in the same area.<br />
The Industrial Museum of Ermoupoli is a unique museum with rare<br />
exhibits from the industrial, marine and commercial life of the island.
S y r o s<br />
Beauty at every step<br />
South of Ermoupoli are the settlements of Manna and Ano Manna,<br />
featuring wonderful neoclassical mansions, and Azolimnos, with<br />
numerous lodging options and taverns serving local wine and<br />
delicacies.<br />
Vari, located in the southeast area of Syros, is a village with beautiful<br />
beaches, and nearby at Vounaki lies the Catholic church of Amiantos<br />
Sylipsi (Immaculate Conception), offering a stunning view of the area.<br />
The village of Finikas features a safe natural port, an organized marina<br />
and a cosmopolitan beach. The cove of Agathopes has a beautiful<br />
beach with thick sand and clear blue waters.<br />
Galissas is a touristic yet cosmopolitan village, whilst Kini is set in a<br />
cove, with an attractive beach and great fish taverns.<br />
the hill. The Historical Archive of the Syros Catholic Archdiocese is<br />
exhibited next to the cathedral, in the building that used to<br />
accommodate the Religious School (1837).<br />
Other sights of Ano Syros include the Capuchin monastery with the<br />
church of Agios Ioannis (1635), the Jesuit monastery with the church of<br />
Panagia Karmilou (Lady of Mount Carmel) (1740) which includes an<br />
impressive library, the churches of Agia Triada and Agios Nikolaos the<br />
Poor (the only Orthodox churches in Ano Syros), the Folk Art Museum,<br />
the traditional handicraft exhibition, and the Museum of Markos<br />
Vamvakaris with personal items and records of the great master of<br />
Greek popular music, whose bust stands in the square named after<br />
him. In Ano Syros you will find little taverns where every corner echoes<br />
with the sounds of "rembetika" and offers an enchanting view.<br />
1<br />
Routes for all<br />
In Syros, hiking lovers will take routes that capture the balance of time<br />
and space.<br />
Ano Syros. Ano Syros, the island's medieval settlement with mainly<br />
Catholic residents, is built on the hill of Agios Georgios overlooking<br />
Ermoupoli. This is a typical fortified medieval settlement: small<br />
detached houses arranged in a circular fashion which acted as a<br />
defence against pirate attacks, narrow cobbled roads fanning out and<br />
branching off uphill, with high steps and infinite branches, roofed<br />
terraces and small doors.<br />
The cathedral of Agios Georgios (or San Tzortzis) is built on the top of<br />
2 On the way to Chroussa Chroussa is all-green with running water, old<br />
mansions, a lovely view, and the Catholic church of Panagia<br />
Faneromeni which was built in 1890. The old chapel right next to the<br />
main church dates back to the 14th century.<br />
The celebration of the church is held on 24 September. The road<br />
towards the centre of the village and to the children's camp is<br />
worthwhile for its lush vegetation. Approaching the stone-paved<br />
alleyways, villas can be glimpsed through the pine trees. The churches<br />
of Panagia and Agios Spyridon are located at the centre of the village.<br />
49
6<br />
Halandriani-Kastri In Halandriani, excavations have brought to light of<br />
an early Cycladic necropolis with significant finds, including the famous<br />
Cycladic figurines and frying pan-shaped vessels. A path to the north<br />
leads to the hill of Kastri, where the remains of a settlement and a<br />
prehistoric citadel have been found.<br />
7 Kambos-Grammata A route which takes you through a varied<br />
3<br />
Tour to Posidonia or Delagratsia Delagratsia, named after the<br />
landscape and a breathtaking view leads to Grammata, a location in the<br />
Catholic church of Madonna della Grazia, is a seaside settlement with<br />
western coastal area where sailors carved signs, wishes and names on<br />
neoclassical mansions and beautiful beaches.<br />
the rocks during the Roman period, when the area provided shelter<br />
from storms.<br />
4<br />
Galissas-Agios Stefanos A wonderful route that leads to the<br />
picturesque chapel of Agios Stefanos, built inside a cave.<br />
Feasts and flavours<br />
The northern part of the island, Ano Meria, is a rugged, hilly area, with<br />
terraces and a few valleys, ideal for hiking. The highest peak is Pyrgos<br />
On the Sunday of Tyrini during the carnival of Ano Syros, the holiday<br />
atmosphere in the narrow alleys is infectious.<br />
The cultural events of “Ermoupolia”, “Apanosyria” in Ano Syros, “Music<br />
at an altitude of 442m. Sign-posted paths traverse Ano Meria, where<br />
routes" as a tribute to Markos Vamvakaris in Kini and Galissas, all take<br />
rare rock formations have been identified. Eclogites, as they are<br />
known, are impressive, rounded formations of dark-coloured rocks<br />
place during the summer months.<br />
In Posidonia, in July, everyone waits for the catch to be hauled in and<br />
which significantly mark the landscape.<br />
the traditional feast on the beach of Agathopes. An event called<br />
Some interesting destinations in Ano Meria are:<br />
“Avgoustiatikes Meres” (August Days) takes place in Vari on the 15th of<br />
August, where old customs and crafts are revived with structures on the<br />
50<br />
5<br />
Pherecydes caves In Alithini (1km from Ano Syros) and far north in<br />
Platy Vouni (5km) there are caves, some of which, according to<br />
tradition, were home to the 6th century philosopher from which they<br />
take their name.<br />
sand, and a Venetian evening. On the third Friday of August, the feast of<br />
“kakavia” (fish soup) is organized on the beach of Finikas, including<br />
dancing and music. The traditional “Trygopati” (crushing of the grapes)
S y r o s<br />
is organized in September, at Kambi in Vari.<br />
Visitors to Syros can taste the traditional recipes of octopus cooked<br />
with vinegar and sun-dried tomatoes, fish with dried capers, silverside<br />
cooked with fried onions, fennel pie, “strapatsada” (eggs in tomato<br />
sauce), and delicious dairy products, the best being “San Michalis", a<br />
cheese exclusively produced in Syros, together with hard strained<br />
cheese. Some rare vine varieties are cultivated on the island:<br />
“avgoustiatis” and “katsano” (white), and “armeletousa”, “proniko”,<br />
and "romeiko" (red).<br />
Action and trips<br />
Take an unforgettable trip to the nearby islets of Strongylo,<br />
Varvarousa, Aspro, Nata, Schinonisi, which have been declared areas<br />
of outstanding natural beauty. On the islet of Didimi or Fanari,<br />
opposite the port entrance, stands the monumental 30m stone<br />
lighthouse, built in 1834.<br />
A beach volley tournament is organised in Ermoupoli, while the island<br />
has football, mini soccer fields, basketball, volleyball, tennis courts,<br />
track and swimming pool.<br />
Syros is famous for its sweets: halvadopita, but mainly the worldfamous<br />
loukoumi (try the rose flavour with walnuts, it's out of this<br />
world!)<br />
ONLY IN SYROS<br />
The first high school of free Greece, which operated for the first time in<br />
1833, is located close to the Town Hall of Ermoupoli (currently<br />
accommodating the University of the Aegean). In the same area is<br />
located the municipal theatre “Apollon” (1862-64), a faithful copy of<br />
the Scala in Milan.<br />
Let's go to Paros…<br />
Only a stone's throw away!!!<br />
51
www.paros.gr<br />
CHAT ROOM<br />
“Paros”<br />
How come you've never been to Paros?<br />
I've always wanted to, but something always came up and<br />
I never made it<br />
You're lucky. The island of your dreams is waiting for you<br />
Well, I know all about the <strong>Cyclades</strong>. I guess Paros will be fine too<br />
Its sounds like you're saying, “I know all about women”.<br />
I'm telling you, Paros is different - its lively, brisk, vivid, it's virtues<br />
are both hidden and obvious.<br />
You've got me in the mood, let's go!<br />
Get recommendations<br />
Paros is so fascinating on so many levels that<br />
many people love it having seen only one of<br />
its faces. Don't jump to conclusions about<br />
what you like, get to know the island first and<br />
find your “own” Paros, the face that suits you<br />
best. No doubt, though, it will charm you even<br />
if you see a different side from the one<br />
expected.<br />
How to get there<br />
Paros is connected by sea with ferries and<br />
fast boats from Piraeus, Rafina, Lavrio, but<br />
also the rest of the <strong>Cyclades</strong>, the islands of<br />
the eastern Aegean, and with Thessaloniki<br />
and Crete; by air it is connected with Athens<br />
and Thessaloniki.<br />
52
P A R O S<br />
The island of Paros is famous for its golden beaches, clear blue<br />
waters and nightlife. However, it has much more than that to offer<br />
visitors, who will see a different island, offering may alternatives: its<br />
rich natural resources, the fascinating cultural heritage, the unique<br />
customs, the original traditional dishes and the famous wine, are<br />
some of the island's secrets that make visitors return.<br />
It is one of the largest and most fertile islands of the <strong>Cyclades</strong> with<br />
valleys, plains and farmlands, and covers an area of 186km2. It was<br />
named after Paros, the leader of the Arcadians that settled on the<br />
island. In ancient times, Paros was one of the most important<br />
centres of the Cycladic civilisation, and renown for the quality of its<br />
marble.<br />
Paros gets the best recommendations<br />
Parikia is the port and capital of the island, and an area of<br />
exceptional religious, archaeological and cultural interest. In<br />
Parikia one can see the famous church of Panagia Ekantotapyliani<br />
(4th century), a magnificent monument to Christianity and one of<br />
the most important Early Christian monuments of Greece. The<br />
marble screen, the synthronon, the ciborium, the cross-shaped<br />
baptistery (unique), the silver-plated icons of Virgin Mary and<br />
Jesus (donation of the Mavrogenis family), the tomb of Agia<br />
Theoktisti, the chapels, the Byzantine Museum, all fill visitors with<br />
awe and respect. Next to Ekantotapyliani is the start of a stonepaved<br />
alley leading to the Archaeological Museum, with exhibits of<br />
53
the world-famous Cycladic civilization, as well as significant finds from<br />
the Neolithic settlement from 4000 BC found on the islet of Saliagos,<br />
located between Paros and Antiparos. “Gorgo” from the 6th century<br />
BC, “Nike” from the 5th century BC, and the famous Parian Chronicle<br />
from the 3rd century BC, a chronological table covering a period of<br />
1,318 (!) years, are all impressive.<br />
The traditional settlement of Parikia generously displays its beauty.<br />
Wonderful neoclassical mansions, traditional galleries, the fountains<br />
of Mavrogenis, the house of Manto, the Venetian castle built by<br />
Sanoudos, the duke of Naxos, in the 13th century. Walking around the<br />
castle, one can see small chapels such as Panagia Stavrou (1514),<br />
Agios Markos, Agios Stylianos, and the architecturally significant<br />
church of Agios Konstantinos, one of the most magnificent churches<br />
of the Aegean Islands, offering an amazing view of the sunset. The<br />
view from the hill of Agii Anargyri and Agia Anna is breathtaking. The<br />
Asclepieion was located south of the hill, and Delion, a famous<br />
sanctuary dedicated to Apollo, Leto and Artemis, was located<br />
southeast of Parikia.<br />
An important cemetery dated from between the 8th and the 3rd<br />
centuries BC was brought to light near the port of Pariki, and includes<br />
tombs from different periods. Visitors can admire the important finds in<br />
the exhibition area next to the cemetery.<br />
Let's go further into beauty<br />
The next destination is Naousa, the most picturesque village of the<br />
island. A visit to the church of Kimisi Theotokou (Assumption of Virgin<br />
Mary) offers a great view over the bay of Naousa, the impressive beach<br />
of Kolymbithres (huge rocks weathered into strange formations), and<br />
the islet of Analipsi. The Venetian Kasteli (castle) from the 15th century<br />
and the traditional settlement, port Langeri and Agii Anargyri are<br />
worthwhile. Moving on, we reach the stone-built double-arch bridge;<br />
54
next follows the Byzantine and Post-Byzantine Art Gallery, the Folk<br />
Collection of Othonas Kaparis, and the collection of traditional<br />
costumes. A stop for ouzo at the picturesque port will help us catch<br />
our breath before moving on.<br />
A visit to Marathi is a must - here the ancient quarries of lychnites, the<br />
famous Parian marble, were located. This stone was used to sculpt<br />
works like the Venus of Milo, Hermes of Praxiteles, and the Parthenon<br />
Pediments.<br />
From Agia Pakou, one can reach the traditional settlement of Kostos,<br />
the birth village of Agios Athanasios the Parian who was a great<br />
master. The settlement is distinguished for its beautiful churches, the<br />
white-washed stone-paved alleys, and the square, a great place to<br />
have coffee under the shade of the plane trees.<br />
Passing through the 3,000-year-old olive groves at Apati, one reaches<br />
Lefkes, the village with the House of Literature and the church of Agia<br />
1<br />
2<br />
P a r o s<br />
Triada, the pride of the villagers, with its marble screen and marble<br />
belfries. The building that used to accommodate the Community<br />
Authorities and the municipal school, as well as of the traditional cafe,<br />
are particularly impressive.<br />
Hikers will love the villages south of Lefkes.<br />
Routes for all<br />
Agii Anargyri-Thapsana-Agii Pantes-Lefkes<br />
Lefkes-Prodromos-Marmara-Marpissa-Piso Livadi - Logaras<br />
Taking the Byzantine path southeast, one reaches the beautiful<br />
settlement of Prodromos. The stone-built alleys overwhelmed by<br />
bougainvilleas lead to the only gate-resembling entrance to the village.<br />
The neighbouring settlement of Marmara features the wonderful Pera<br />
Panagia, and the beaches of Molos and Tsoukalia. Marpissa is located<br />
southeast. It is one of the most beautiful traditional settlements of the<br />
island, with numerous chapels, stone-paved terraces, the Folk<br />
Museum, the Byzantine Art Gallery, and the Perantinos Museum.<br />
Further on, one can see the picturesque port of Piso Livadi, offering an<br />
amazing view of the sunrise. Logaras is the next village. Ruins of the<br />
Venetian castle can be seen to the east, on the hill of Agios Antonios;<br />
the monastery of Agios Georgios of Langada is located to the west.<br />
3 Piso Livadi-Dryos The rugged beach extends from Piso Livadi to<br />
Dryos, the settlement with ancient shipyards and running water.<br />
55
4 Angeria-Alyki Angeria is a mountainous village in the south of Paros,<br />
and features the monastery of Agii Theodori with its its view of the<br />
Aegean. The neighbouring village of Alyki is a great chance to get to<br />
know the flora and fauna of the island. The folk museums “Skorpios”<br />
and “Anthemion” are located a short distance away. In Alyki, the ruins<br />
of an ancient city can be seen in the sea.<br />
5 Naousa-Kolympithres Boats connect the small port of Naousa with<br />
the beaches of Monastiri, Kolympithres and Langeri. On the hill above<br />
Kolympithres, at Koukounaries, are the ruins of a 12th century BC<br />
Mycaenaean palace; ruins of an Early Cycladic cemetery are located<br />
at the foot of the hill, at Plastira. Kolympithres offers options such as<br />
slalom water ski zone, kayaks for rent, and the sea kayaking touring<br />
club.<br />
Alternatively, one can take the road from Monastiri to the lighthouse,<br />
the most northern point of the island.<br />
take place in Naousa, Alyki and Prodromos on 23<br />
June. A fish celebration takes place in Naousa on<br />
the first Sunday of July. A great feast celebrating<br />
Sotiras (the Saviour) is organized on 6 August in<br />
Alyki and Marpissa. Pirate evenings are<br />
organised in Naousa on 23 August; on 28 and 29<br />
August, people celebrate Ai Giannis in Naousa and Lefkes. The custom<br />
which takes place on 3 November is a reference to Bacchic feasts, in a<br />
celebration dedicated to Ai Giorgis Methystis (the Inebriator), an<br />
inauguration for the local wines.<br />
The representation of the Passions seen in Marpissa, Marmara,<br />
Prodromos, Lefkes and Aspro Horio is unique.<br />
Paros saves many gourmet surprises for the visitor: karavoli (escargot<br />
garlic paté), rafiolia (small fried pies with skimmed-milk cheese), sea<br />
urchin salad, gouna (sun-dried salt fish), roast stuffed fish, octopus<br />
Feasts and flavours<br />
Visitors can take part in the grape harvest, the<br />
crushing of grapes and rakidi (production of raki)<br />
and the accompanying festivities. Don't miss the<br />
chance to dance at one of the several feasts<br />
organized on the island which culminate in the<br />
feast for Panagia Ekatontapyliani in Parikia in<br />
August. The klidonas fortune telling festivities<br />
56
P a r o s<br />
croquettes, herring salad, ladosoupa (soup with pasta),<br />
kolitsanokeftedes (seafood croquettes), amanitokeftedes (mushroom<br />
croquettes), hortofouskotes (pies with wild greens), bean pie, garlic<br />
bulb paté. Paros is famous for its cheeses, and for wine from the select<br />
varieties mandilaria and monemvasia. Sweet flavours are dominated<br />
by macaroons, samota figs, petimezopita (molasses pie), and<br />
skaltsounia pastries.<br />
Sea and action<br />
The island has several diving schools (the beaches Chrysi Akti, Santa<br />
Maria, and Pounta are ideal for diving). Pounta is the best beach for<br />
kite surfing, while the favourite beaches for windsurfing are Tserdakia,<br />
Chrysi Akti, Santa Maria and Pounta. The island also has surfing clubs.<br />
Amateur fishermen will find ideal spots on the coasts of Paros. In<br />
addition, daily trips with sailing boats are organised from Naousa and<br />
Santa Maria to Naxos, but also to Mykonos, Amorgos, Antiparos,<br />
Small <strong>Cyclades</strong>.<br />
Further on, the road that links Parikia to Alyki, near the monastery of<br />
the 'Christos Dasus” (Jesus of the forest), there is a valley with rich<br />
vegetation, where hundreds of butterflies gather during summer<br />
months (the area is called Petaloudes, the Greek word for butterflies).<br />
ONLY IN PAROS<br />
At Marathi in the island's interior, visitors can see the ancient quarries<br />
of lychnites, the famous Parian marble used to sculpt great works like<br />
the Venus of Milo, Hermes of Praxiteles, the korai of Parthenon, the<br />
temple of Apollo in Delos, and many more. It only takes one visit to<br />
carry you back to the beginning of creation called Art.<br />
Let's go to Antiparos...<br />
Only a stone's throw away!!!<br />
57
www.antiparos.gr<br />
CHAT ROOM<br />
“Antiparos”<br />
I've heard that Antiparos combines great water, diving, sights, everything.<br />
Look at the photos I sent you. It's the perfect choice for carefree holidays<br />
in the Aegean.<br />
We should go alone, girls only, so we can do whatever we like. We can also go<br />
sightseeing.<br />
Everything we need will be right there. I'm already thinking about a great beach with<br />
crystal–clear waters, perfect after long hours of sunbathing.<br />
Wow, the guy with the surf board is coming this way.<br />
Get recommendations<br />
Antiparos is an island mostly seen from the<br />
sea. Because it is impossible to resist the<br />
calling of the sea, a trip with a boat, surfing,<br />
the feeling you only get when floating in<br />
water. And once out of the water, Antiparos<br />
offers beautiful sights, warm people,<br />
flavours and feasts so you can enjoy the life<br />
you deserve.<br />
How to get there<br />
Antiparos is connected daily by sea with<br />
Parikia and Pounta in Paros.<br />
58
A N T I P A R O S<br />
Antiparos is located in the centre of the <strong>Cyclades</strong> group of islands, a<br />
short distance from Paros, of which it was a part before geological<br />
changes in the Aegean Sea split them apart. Bathed in the sun's light<br />
and surrounded by golden beaches, Antiparos is an ideal destination<br />
for relaxed holidays. At the same time, it is world-famous because of its<br />
amazing cave, one of the most interesting sights in the <strong>Cyclades</strong>.<br />
Antiparos is a hilly and fertile island, and some areas are rich in cedars,<br />
a pleasant and relaxing surprise for visitors. The peak of Profitis Ilias at<br />
the centre of the island is the highest point (399 m).<br />
Visit the Cycladic Art Museum, where replicas of figurines are exhibited,<br />
such as the figurine of a pregnant woman and the man proposing a<br />
toast.<br />
Waiting to be discovered<br />
Antiparos covers an area of 35 km² and has approximately 1,000<br />
residents. In ancient years it was known as Oliaros; the first reference<br />
to its current name was made in the 13th century. The main settlement<br />
and port of the island is Antiparos, or Kastro, on the north coast. Here,<br />
the stone-paved roads, white-washed alleys, flower-covered houses<br />
and the infinite shades of blue make an enchanting picture. The<br />
traditional settlement, inhabited until the 19th century, surrounds the<br />
imposing Venetian castle which was built in the 1440s to protect the<br />
residents from pirate attacks. The castle was initially a massive tower<br />
with houses built around it, which formed the outside court. The<br />
pedestal of the central tower, a large gate, arches and some houses<br />
59
with a coat of arms are now the remains of the impressive castle. Three<br />
chapels blend harmoniously with the houses: Christos, Agios Antonios,<br />
and Agios Ioannis Apokefalistis (the Decapitator).<br />
The sights of Antiparos include the cathedral of the patron saint, Agios<br />
Nikolaos, which was built in 1783 next to the gate of the Castle, as well as<br />
the Cultural Centre with the Library.<br />
The other two settlements of the island are Agios Georgios and Kambos.<br />
Agios Georgios features one of the most beautiful beaches of the island<br />
with an amazing sea view. Take the boat from the small port of Agios<br />
Georgios to visit the nearby uninhabited islets of Despotiko, Tsimitiri, and<br />
Strongylo, which are of great cultural significance.<br />
In Despotiko, approximately 20 Early Cycladic tombs, marble<br />
architectural elements of Doric-order buildings, vessels, bronze buckles,<br />
and a female deity figurine were discovered. All these finds indicate the<br />
presence of a sanctuary, possibly dedicated to Apollo. On the islet of<br />
Tsimitiri between Antiparos and Paros, are the ruins of large structures<br />
from ancient years, while tombs from the Hellenistic and Roman Periods<br />
can be seen on the beach. Ruins of a post-Byzantine church were found<br />
on Strongylo, the islet west of Despotiko.<br />
Despotiko and Strongylo are part of the Natura 2000 network.<br />
Feasts and flavours<br />
Visitors will enjoy the warmth, kindness and hospitability of the locals, and<br />
can easily find cozy places to have a coffee or taste local home-made<br />
sweets, while nightlife lovers will find numerous bars to spend a carefree<br />
and wonderful evening. The island is full of traditional taverns that serve<br />
grilled octopus, fresh fish or local meat, but also local delicacies with<br />
capers and sour skimmed-milk cheese, combined with fine wine and<br />
tsikoudia. Traditional distilleries of tsikoudia and souma, traditional drinks<br />
of the area, operate during October in Antiparos. Dishes particularly<br />
associated with Antiparos include delicious wild rabbit cooked in wine,<br />
patido rooster, carnival ravioli, Christmas rolls, and tasty cheeses:<br />
kefalotyri, ladotyri, xinomyzithra, toulomotyri.<br />
Folk festivities in Antiparos take place every year, giving visitors a chance to<br />
get acquainted with a tradition that withstands time and the consuming<br />
routines of our times. The festivities of the island culminate in the three-day<br />
feast of Agia Marina held on 15-17 July at the port of Antiparos, with<br />
dancing, singing and treats for all. The traditional custom of klidonas is<br />
revived on 23 and 24 June, at the port of Antiparos. The feast of Agios<br />
Panteleimon takes place on 27 July, where food and wine are offered to the<br />
sounds of folk music; 8 September is the celebration of the chapel of<br />
Panagia Faneromeni located on the other side of the island but accessible<br />
by boat. Carnival festivities in Antiparos include gaitanaki (dancing around<br />
60
1<br />
2<br />
a ribbon-decorated pole), singing and dancing by local groups,<br />
culminating in the carnival on Clean Monday.<br />
Routes for all<br />
Chorio-Glyfa-Spilaio At the centre of Antiparos, on the hill of Agios<br />
Ioannis, lies one of the most beautiful caves in the world, the oldest<br />
known cave in Greece. The chapel of Agios Ioannis Spiliotis is at the<br />
entrance of the cave, and was built in the 18th century. The celebrations<br />
for Ai Giannis Spiliotis take place on 7 May at the entrance of the cave,<br />
with traditional local dishes and folk dances.<br />
Chorio-Kambos A great route through landscapes of natural beauty in<br />
the island's interior.<br />
Sea and action<br />
Antiparos is surrounded by golden beaches with crystal blue waters:<br />
Psaraliki, Sifneikos Gialos, Agios Spyridonas, Agios Georgios, Diapori,<br />
Theologos, Livadi. The layout of the island enables visitors to explore<br />
virgin beaches of unique beauty, or head to the busier ones. You can<br />
arrange to be taken to the beaches by boat or even take a trip around the<br />
island, from the port of Antiparos to Agios Georgios. The scenery is<br />
unforgettable: sandy beaches alternate with caves and multi-coloured<br />
A n t i p a r o s<br />
rocks in impressive formations, making a fascinating contrast with the<br />
blue of the sea.<br />
For those who want their holidays to be more than swimming,<br />
professionals offer unique experiences, including diving into the<br />
wonderful waters of the island, sea kayaking and windsurfing. Sports and<br />
sea sports events are held in Antiparos, open to both Greek and foreign<br />
visitors, while fishing lovers will find the ideal fishing spots in Agios<br />
Georgios and Despotiko.<br />
In the spring, from mid-March until the end of April, 9 and 13 kilometre<br />
biking trips are organised from Chorio through Kambos to Livadi.<br />
ONLY IN ANTIPAROS<br />
The cave of Antiparos, estimated to be 45 million years old, has 410 steps<br />
that take visitors to a depth of 100 metres, where they can see splendid<br />
formations of stalactites and stalagmites. Ancient vessels were found<br />
inside the cave, as well as several inscriptions: a dedication to the<br />
goddess Artemis, as well as the name of the lyric poet Archilochus, and<br />
the names of those who, according to tradition, had conspired against<br />
Alexander the Great and sought refuge in the cave.<br />
Let's go to Naxos…<br />
Only a stone's throw away!!!<br />
61
www.naxos.gr<br />
CHAT ROOM<br />
“Naxos”<br />
Dimitris has been going to Naxos for years, he will show us around.<br />
We're lucky, because Naxos is a large island and has many things to see and do.<br />
He's excited, he keeps telling me about this, that and the other.<br />
About food, and the mountain, and ancient remains, etc, etc…<br />
He does the same thing to you, right?<br />
Yes, but I like it, I feel as if I'm already there.<br />
Get recommendations<br />
Naxos is large enough for you and your<br />
greatest expectations, your friends and<br />
interests. The variety it offers, though, can<br />
be combined with its qualities. This way, the<br />
opportunities to do as you please during<br />
your holidays appear naturally. Also, the<br />
unique beauties of the island will fascinate<br />
and surprise you.<br />
How to get there<br />
Naxos is connected by air with Athens. It is<br />
connected by sea with ferries and<br />
speedboats with Piraeus and Rafina, as well<br />
as with other <strong>Cyclades</strong> Islands, Heraklion-<br />
Crete, and the Dodecanese.<br />
62
N A X O S<br />
Naxos is the largest and most fertile island of the <strong>Cyclades</strong>. Its long<br />
history, the important monuments but also its vivid tourism life have<br />
put it in a special position among the other Cycladic islands. No<br />
matter how many days you spend in Naxos, there will always be<br />
something to discover, beaches you haven't seen, towers and<br />
castles you haven't visited yet, ancient temples whose secrets are<br />
yet unknown.<br />
Naxos has a very rich natural environment with many rare species<br />
of fauna and flora, and diverse landscapes: the two tallest<br />
mountains of the <strong>Cyclades</strong> (Zeus, Koronos), coastal and hilly<br />
wetlands, sandy beaches with dunes and cedars, olive groves,<br />
valleys and, to the north, large areas with terraces.<br />
Useful information<br />
According to tradition, the first inhabitants of the island were from<br />
Thrace. Later on the island was inhabited by the Carians whose<br />
leader, Naxus, gave his name to the island. Excavations show that<br />
Naxos had already been inhabited since the Neolithic period, while<br />
during the Early Cycladic period it had several important<br />
settlements, playing a leading role in the growth of the Cycladic<br />
civilization. The geological resources of the island have produced<br />
two famous products: marble, which was used for Cycladic<br />
figurines and ancient kouroi, and emery, which contributed to the<br />
flourish of sculpting in Naxos, as it was used for the final polishing<br />
of works.<br />
63
A true metropolis<br />
Chora is the capital and port of the island, built on the northwest<br />
coasts, a town that combines a picturesque character with numerous<br />
comforts and options for visitors. The numerous monuments in Chora<br />
suggest its glorious past, the most characteristic being “Portara”, the<br />
imposing propylaeum to the temple of Apollo (6th century BC) located<br />
on the islet called “Palatia” (the spot offers an overwhelming view to<br />
the sunset).<br />
The archaeological site of the Mycaenaean city in Grota is of particular<br />
interest. A large part of this city lies in the sea, but also beneath the<br />
constructed northern part of the modern city. Part of the Grota<br />
settlement is exhibited at the Archaeological Museum of Naxos.<br />
On the hill that forms the natural citadel of Chora, Markos Sanoudos<br />
built the castle in 1207. “Trani Porta” is the entrance to the sublime<br />
medieval settlement of the castle, a residential, but also administrative<br />
and religious centre of Venetian conquerors.<br />
At the centre of the castle's settlement is the square and the Catholic<br />
cathedral with the Byzantine icon of Virgin Mary, right next to the<br />
Ursulines School, the Capella Casazza, and the Jesuits Trade School<br />
which currently houses the Archaeological Museum with rich finds from<br />
the Neolithic Period until the Old Christian Period.<br />
The sights of Chora include the Orthodox cathedral, the old monastery<br />
of Agia Kyriaki with the small chapel of the Assumption of Virgin Mary,<br />
and Panagia Vlacherniotissa, one of the oldest churches of Greece,<br />
featuring two icons of Angelos the Cretan. Outside Chora lies Aga's<br />
Fountain, the only Turkish monument on the island.<br />
In the marketplace of Chora one can find all local products, folk art<br />
objects (knits, baskets, ceramics), jewels, and taste the delicacies of<br />
the rich local cuisine at one of the dozens of restaurants and taverns.<br />
Enjoy the sun and the sea at one of the famous beaches of the<br />
southwest coast, covered by endless silvery beaches. When it comes<br />
to nightlife, Chora has places for all ages and preferences.<br />
64
N a x o s<br />
Start exploring<br />
Northeast of Chora, in the valley of Egares, stands the towermonastery<br />
of Panagia Ypsilotera, once a refuge for the area's farmers<br />
during the Venetian occupation; moving to the north, one can see the<br />
monastery of Faneromeni (17th century).<br />
The picturesque village Koronos is built at the foothill of mount<br />
Koronos (997m). At its taverns you can try the famous wine of hilly<br />
Naxos. It is worth visiting the Folk Museum and the church of Panagia<br />
Argokiliotissa, where numerous pilgrims gather for the celebration of<br />
Zoodochos Pigi.<br />
To the south, built in the heart of hilly Naxos and at the foothill of mount<br />
Fanari, lies Apiranthos (or Aperathou as the locals call it), a village that<br />
has maintained its architectural character intact from the Venetian<br />
occupation. Apiranthos stands out among the islands of Naxos for the<br />
idiom used and the customs, since it was inhabited by people who<br />
came here from mountainous villages of Crete in the 17th century. The<br />
Zevgolis tower (17th century) is impressive, as it is built on a rock at the<br />
entrance of the village. It is worth visiting three very interesting<br />
museums there: the Archaeological Museum, the Geological<br />
Museum and the Folk Art Museum. Remarkable Byzantine churches<br />
can be seen in the greater area.<br />
From Apiranthos, the road to the east leads to Moutsouna; the coastal<br />
road leads to the beautiful beaches of Psili Ammos and Panormos,<br />
where the sea, the sand dunes, and the cedar forest create an idyllic<br />
environment.<br />
South of Apiranthos lies the village Danakos with the monastery-fort of<br />
Fotodotis Christos, considered to be the oldest monastery of Naxos.<br />
Next is Filoti, one of the largest villages, built at the foothill of the<br />
imposing mount Za, and features liveliness, restaurants, cafes, bars<br />
and a marketplace. It is worth visiting Panagia Filotitissa, one of the<br />
most beautiful churches in Naxos with rare icons, a marble screen and<br />
a sculpted belfry, as well as the tower of Barotsis (1650).<br />
A road from Filoti leads south, to the imposing Tower of Himarros, a<br />
marble observatory from the Hellenistic Period.<br />
In Tragea, at the centre of the island, lies the Castle and several<br />
Byzantine churches which surround Panagia Protothronos which<br />
features a wonderful synthronon from the 9th-10th century. In Halki,<br />
the Tower of Gratsia is impressive. This was actually a fort with tall<br />
walls and an opening bridge.<br />
South of Chora, the touristy settlement of Agios Prokopios is ideal for<br />
nightlife, while the village of Agia Anna is famous for its 7km-long<br />
65
villages Apiranthos and Filoti include Bacchic elements, with people<br />
dressing up as “koudounati” (holding bells) and “foustanelati” (wearing<br />
a Greek type of kilt). On the evening of 23 June, all villages revive the<br />
fortune telling custom of “klidonas”; September is the month of<br />
“hatzanemata”, the wine and raki preparation procedure. Hog<br />
slaughtering takes place near the end of autumn, while Easter<br />
celebrations are unique, and the Easter table includes the speciality of<br />
Naxos: lamb stuffed with spices, pluck and cheese.<br />
beach and the lovely cedars. The seaside village of Mikri Vigla is very<br />
popular among surfing lovers.<br />
1<br />
Routes for all<br />
Apollonas- Kouros- Quarries Near the entrance of Apollonas stands<br />
an unfinished 10.45m-tall Kouros of the 6th century BC. The ancient<br />
marble quarries are also located near the settlement.<br />
Feasts and celebrations<br />
The people of Naxos win over visitors from the first moment, thanks to<br />
their hospitability, traditions and customs. The songs and dances of<br />
Naxos – balos, bitzileidistikos, vlacha – are widespread all over<br />
Greece. Wherever you go in Naxos, you will definitely have the chance<br />
to attend one of the numerous local feasts, listen to the sounds of<br />
violin and lute, and discover the charms of the dancing tradition of the<br />
island. The feasts include the celebrations of Agios Georgios in<br />
Kinidaros, of Agia Triada in Galanado, of Agii Apostoli in Melanes, of<br />
Agios Nikodimos (14 July) in Chora, of Sotiras (6 August) in Glinado,<br />
of Virgin Mary on 15 August in Filoti. The carnival celebrations in the<br />
2 Melanes- Flerio- Kouros The road from Melanes leads to Flerio, where<br />
visitors can admire the unfinished 6.40m-tall<br />
Kouros of the 7th century BC.<br />
3 Agia Marina- Za peak Half the way from Filoti<br />
to Danakos, at the church of Agia Marina,<br />
starts the path to the peak of Za, the tallest<br />
mountain of the <strong>Cyclades</strong> (1,004m). The view<br />
is breathtaking, looking over to Naxos and all<br />
the nearby islands. The cave of Za, with<br />
66
N a x o s<br />
stalagmite formations, is located on the northwest slope of the<br />
mountain.<br />
4<br />
Tsikalario- Apano Kastro From Tsikalario, at the centre of the island,<br />
starts a path that leads to the ancient castle of Apano Kastro. The view<br />
from the top is overwhelming.<br />
The beaches of Naxos, extending over a distance of 17 kilometres, are<br />
ideal for swimming, fishing and surfing. The surrounding islands, e.g.<br />
the Small <strong>Cyclades</strong>, or Delos, are fine destinations for day trips.<br />
For the friends of land activities, the morphology of Naxos is ideal for<br />
mountain biking, while the island also has horseback riding facilities.<br />
ONLY IN NAXOS<br />
Try the local products available at all villages of Naxos. Naxos is<br />
famous for the different types of cheese: xinotyro, myzithra and<br />
kefalotyri have a unique taste. Preserves, the citrus liqueur and the<br />
traditional kydonopasto are exquisite. The speciality dishes of Naxos<br />
include pumpkin pasticcio, pentarates potatoes, rosto (meat in tomato<br />
sauce), omelette with karfa (a type of wild greens), and kakavia (fish<br />
soup).<br />
Let's go to Ios…<br />
Only a stone's throw away!!!<br />
67
www.ios.gr<br />
CHAT ROOM<br />
“Ios”<br />
I typed “Ios island” on the search engine, and ended up with millions of hits.<br />
It is a common homeland, the meeting place for the next generation.<br />
You're exaggerating. It is great, and the people going there are ok, but…<br />
You have no idea what I'm talking about. If all the internet fans of Ios went there<br />
at the same time, it would be more than packed.<br />
Come on, its easy for us to be there actually, not virtually.<br />
Get recommendations<br />
Ios is a beautiful and simple place, but also a<br />
very special and ideal place. You can just go<br />
for holidays, but young people prefer it as a<br />
destination, simply because it is the right<br />
place for them. Like migratory birds, they<br />
know they need to visit an unknown land, but<br />
they also know it's their destination.<br />
How to get there<br />
Ios is connected by sea with ferries and<br />
speedboats with Piraeus, other islands of the<br />
<strong>Cyclades</strong>, Crete, and the Dodecanese.<br />
68
I O S<br />
Ios, one of the most beautiful islands of Greece, is surrounded by<br />
Paros, Naxos, Sikinos and Santorini. It is internationally known as the<br />
island for youth, its long golden beaches, the crystal clear waters,<br />
remote beaches and wild nightlife. At night, the beat goes up, and the<br />
atmosphere seen in the alleys of Chora is fascinating.<br />
However Ios, an island closely associated with Homer, offers visitors<br />
much more than the sun, the sea and entertainment, since it combines<br />
cosmopolitan life with rich Cycladic tradition.<br />
Its name possibly comes from the word "ion" which means flower,<br />
because in ancient years the island was full of flowers. The end of the<br />
2nd millennium BC was the time when the Ionians populated the<br />
Aegean Islands.<br />
The leader of settlers in Ios was Neleus, the son of Codrus. It the<br />
centuries that followed, the island participated in the flourish of the<br />
Cycladic civilisation.<br />
Ios: distant but wonderful<br />
Ios or Nios covers an area of 108 square kilometres, and has a<br />
population of 2,000 residents.<br />
The capital of the island is Chora, a wonderful town which is built in a<br />
crescent on the hill above the port. Classic Cycladic architecture<br />
dominates the place: alleys, all-white stone-built houses with thick walls<br />
for protection from cold and the bright sun of the Aegean, small slated<br />
squares with fountains pouring potable water, numerous chapels. At the<br />
top of the settlement and built on a steep rock are the chapels of Agios<br />
69
one of the great poet's favourite locations with an amazing view to the<br />
Aegean Sea. The theatre hosts cultural events in summer months, while the<br />
“Omiria” cultural events take place in Chora every May. The privately-owned<br />
Modern Art Museum in Kolitsani exhibits paintings of modern art from all over<br />
the world.<br />
70<br />
Nikolaos, of Christos, and of Agios Georgios, surrounded by the ruins of<br />
the medieval castle established in the 14th century by the island's ruler,<br />
Marco Crispi. Beneath the castle, on a steep rock looking over to Sikinos,<br />
Santorini and the deep blue Aegean Sea, lies the Byzantine church of<br />
Panagia Gremiotissa (1797), which was dedicated to the Assumption of<br />
Virgin Mary. On the steep hill above the port, Chora was built on the place<br />
of the ancient city of Ios. Large parts of the walls, a building, the road to the<br />
port, and the temple of Apollo where the church of Agia Ekaterini lies today,<br />
can still be seen. The ancient city agora extended between Agia Ekaterini<br />
and the chapel of Agii Anargyri. Rich finds from the Prehistoric to the<br />
Roman Periods are exhibited at the Archaeological Museum of<br />
Chora. Moving up to the hill east of Chora, one<br />
can see one of the greatest sights of Ios: the<br />
old white-washed windmills. The road<br />
continues to the Odysseas Elytis Open<br />
Theatre, an architectural masterpiece<br />
made of stone and marble, built at<br />
Beaches everywhere<br />
At a distance of 2 km² west of Chora, in the picturesque settlement of Ormos<br />
or Gialos, is the lee port of the island, with the all-white chapel of Agia Irini<br />
(17th century) built at its right. In Gialos one can see the bust of Homer. The<br />
small beach of the port is great to enjoy the sun and the sea or engage in sea<br />
sports. The amazing beaches of Kolitsani and Koumbara are located near<br />
Gialos – stay until sunset for an unforgettable experience. Gialos also has an<br />
organized campsite.<br />
Heading southeast, a 3km road from Chora leads to one of the most<br />
beautiful beaches of the Aegean Islands, Mylopotas with its golden sand, the<br />
clear blue sea and all types of tourism services: rooms for rent, organised<br />
campsites, delicious food. A sea sports centre and a diving centre operate in<br />
Mylopotas.<br />
From Mylopotas starts a 23km country road to Maganari at the most<br />
southern part of the island, where seven successive beaches<br />
with golden sand and sea sport facilities are available<br />
for all visitors.<br />
Before Maganari, the crossroads lead east to<br />
the Byzantine monastery of Agios Ioannis of<br />
Kalamos, and to the quiet beach with the
I o s<br />
clear waters, ideal for diving.<br />
10 kilometres north of Chora is located Agia Theodoti, a traditional<br />
settlement with the historic church of Agios Theodosios, a sandy beach and<br />
a great view to the sunrise. Before Agia Theodoti, turning to the right, an<br />
asphalt-layered road leads to the bay of the picturesque settlement of<br />
Psathi, a popular destination for swimming, surfing, and relaxation.<br />
Feasts and flavours<br />
Ios has maintained a tradition that brings visitors closer and embraces them<br />
in a spirit of celebration. Traditional feasts accompany the celebrations of Ai<br />
Giannis Klidonas in Pyrgos on 24 June, of Panagia Gremiotissa in Chora on<br />
15 August, of Ai Giannis Kalamos and Ai Giannis of Psathi on 29 August,<br />
and the Birth of the Virgin Mary in Agia Theodoti and Paleokastro on 8<br />
September.<br />
Ios saves many gourmet surprises for the visitors: chickpea balls, bourgeto<br />
horse mackerels (cooked in tomato and vegetable sauce), tsimetia (stuffed<br />
courgette flowers), sun-dried chargrilled minnows, and the necessary touch<br />
of capers in salads and casseroles, all accompanied by local wine. Don't<br />
miss the chance to try the select cheese products of Ios: spicy white<br />
kefalotyri, “xino” (soft white cheese), "skotyri” (a mixture of cheeses,<br />
skimmed-milk cheese and herbs), and sweet skimmed-milk cheese. The<br />
traditional sweets of Ios include pasteli, avgokalamara (elsewhere known as<br />
diples, a deep fried pastry), melitinia or myzithropites pastries (stuffed with<br />
sweet skimmed-milk cheese), macaroons, and pastota figs (dried figs<br />
dipped in sesame). Also try the raki of Ios: it is even stronger than that made<br />
in Crete!<br />
Routes for all<br />
For those who love hiking, Ios is the ideal destination. Its hilly morphology<br />
71
and the innumerable paths opened by shepherds on its hills enable visitors<br />
to see amazing places of wild beauty and enjoy the view to the nearby<br />
7<br />
Agia Theodoti- Chora (6.5 km, 4 hours). The route passes through the<br />
mainland, where the landscape is wonderful.<br />
islands.<br />
1<br />
Chora –Profitis Ilias (3.2km, estimated hiking time: 90 min). A wonderful<br />
8<br />
Chora – Homer's tomb (9 km, 4 hours). A great route on the north side of<br />
the island, ending at the location Plakotos. It was there that a domed tomb<br />
route of natural beauty to the church of Profitis Ilias, towards the peak of the<br />
was discovered which, according to the inscription found, is the tomb of<br />
mountain (514m).<br />
Homer. Ancient writers (Strabo, Plinius, Pausanias) refer that Homer died in<br />
Ios; furthermore, several coins of the 3rd-2nd centuries BC found on the<br />
2<br />
Chora –Profitis Ilias (2.9km, 75 min). An alternative route to the above<br />
destination.<br />
3<br />
Agia Theodoti- Paleokastro (2.3km, 90 min). In Paleokastro you can see<br />
the court of a 2.5m Byzantine fort-observatory, and the church of Panagia<br />
Paleokastritissa, built on the fort.<br />
4<br />
Agia Irini – Valmas beach (0.8km, 15 min). A short route to the amazing<br />
beach south of the port.<br />
island feature the face of Homer.<br />
5<br />
Mylopotas – Klima- Pikri Nero- Maganari One of the best routes in Ios,<br />
however access from Klima bay and then on to Maganari is very difficult.<br />
9<br />
Chora- Port, taking the traditional slated path.<br />
72<br />
6 Chora- Pyrgos- Psathi (10km, 5 hours). The view from the peak of<br />
Pyrgos, the highest spot of the village (713m), is impressive. This is the<br />
location of the monastery of Agios Ioannis, which was built in the 16th<br />
century on ruins of a temple dedicated to Apollo.<br />
10 Port - Kambos The hill of Skarkos is located in the valley of Kambos, near<br />
the port. At this location, excavations brought to light a settlement considered<br />
to be the oldest Cycladic settlement, even older than Akrotiri in Santorini.<br />
Excavations produced rich finds, which are now exhibited at the<br />
Archaeological Museum of the island.
I o s<br />
Agrotourism? In Ios, for sure<br />
If you want to experience daily farming works performed in the oldfashioned<br />
way, local stockfarmers will be willing to show you through the<br />
entire production process (grazing, milking, cheese-making). You can do<br />
the same with fishermen and apiarists of the island.<br />
island. Young people are interested in meeting new people, but also to<br />
experience the spirit of fun only found in Ios. Lots of places for all music<br />
preferences will keep everyone happy.<br />
And if you like land sports, you can play football at the field of Kambos, or<br />
basketball or volleyball at the court in Chora, and on the beaches of<br />
Mylopotas and the port.<br />
ONLY IN IOS<br />
Ios is considered as one of the most famous meeting points for young<br />
people from all over the world, who make up a global community on the<br />
Let's go to Sikinos…<br />
Only a stone's throw away!!!<br />
73
www.sikinos.gr<br />
CHAT ROOM<br />
“Sikinos”<br />
This is a totally different world.<br />
I've heard that it is a calm, hospitable and beautiful island.<br />
That's an understatement. Sikinos cannot be described<br />
with words.<br />
You don't get enthused easily. So, what is it about you and<br />
Sikinos?<br />
It is a welcoming island that charmed me with its simplicity.<br />
You're going back? I'll join you, I've missed beauty.<br />
Get recommendations<br />
Sikinos is a totally different world. It's<br />
difficult to say if it's the beauty or its<br />
character that wins you over. After all, it all<br />
comes down to a combination of these two<br />
elements that compose a proposal for life, a<br />
life that is there to enjoy during holidays,<br />
and to cherish in everyday life. The 300<br />
residents have managed to maintain a<br />
humane and relaxed culture where<br />
everyone is welcome.<br />
How to get there<br />
Ferries connect Sikinos with Piraeus all<br />
year round. Ferry and speedboat<br />
connections are available with most<br />
islands of the <strong>Cyclades</strong>.<br />
74
S I K I N O S<br />
Sikinos is a small island of the south <strong>Cyclades</strong>, covering an area of<br />
41km². It is located east of Folegandros and west of Ios.<br />
Surrounded by islands that attract masses of tourists, Sikinos has<br />
remained intact, retaining its originality and being an ideal<br />
destination for relaxed holidays in a calm and beautiful set next to<br />
the clear blue sea.<br />
the best time for calamari fishing, using the special fluorescent<br />
hooks.<br />
According to tradition, the island was named after Sicinus, the son<br />
of Thoas, king of Lemnos. Sikinos was first inhabited by Dorians in<br />
the 10th century BC, followed by the Ionians.<br />
Visitors can enjoy swimming, the sun and the sea, while amateur<br />
fishermen will find a paradise – underwater fishing at Poulati with its<br />
rocky slabs is a unique experience. The beach can be reached by<br />
car up to a point, and then on foot. Autumn evenings in Alopronia is<br />
Sikinos is a different world<br />
The capital is Chora or Kastro (castle), built on the rim of a steep hill<br />
near the northwest coast, at an altitude of 280 metres. Chora<br />
comprises two equally beautiful and charming settlements: Kastro<br />
75
and Chorio.<br />
In Chora, visitors can see one of the few original Cycladic settlements<br />
and the fascinating grandeur of simplicity: stone-paved alleys,<br />
picturesque cafes, small white houses and stone-built mansions –<br />
excellent samples of folk Cycladic architecture – built in a crescent on<br />
the hill, with colourful doors and windows and small verandas with<br />
wooden handrails, dominated by all-green shrubs and fragrant<br />
flowers. At the highest spot of Chora, under the blue sky, stand<br />
imposing the old white windmills. The gem of Chora is the church of<br />
Pantanassa (cathedral), built in 1787. It is an excellent monument of<br />
the Cycladic ecclesiastical architecture with a carved gold-plated<br />
screen and wonderful icons of the Cretan School. Another beautiful<br />
church is that of Panagia Pantochara, built in the memory of Odysseas<br />
Elytis. The Byzantine Museum is located in Kastro, while in Chorio an<br />
old olive press plant accommodates the Folk Museum whose exhibits<br />
take visitors to a trip through history. Northwest of Kastro lie the<br />
picturesque churches of Agios Vasilios and Agii Anargyri.<br />
The top of the rock near Chora is dominated by the historic monastery<br />
of Zoodochos Pigi built in 1690. Although Catholic, the church was<br />
built in Byzantine style and looks like a castle, since it is surrounded by<br />
walls which protected the residents from pirate attacks.<br />
The only asphalt-layered 3.5km-long road of the island links Chora to<br />
the port, Alopronia or Ano Pronia, a small popular holiday area on a<br />
small bay to the east, where visitors can find small cafes and taverns<br />
that serve delicious home-made dishes, and a wonderful beach with<br />
clear waters.<br />
From the small fishing refuge of Alopronia, small caiques take visitors to<br />
the beautiful beaches of the Island – Agios Ioannis, Agios Georgios,<br />
Agios Panteleimon, Dialiskari – but also to the astonishing caves of<br />
Mavri Spilia, Drakontospilies and Drakofrydo.<br />
Routes for all<br />
Sikinos is the ideal place for hiking. Its rocky slopes of impressive relief<br />
and shrubby vegetation, the panoramic view, the terraces and dry walls<br />
extending down to the sea – reminding of the hard work of old residents<br />
– the peaceful nature, all reveal the beauties of the island step by step.<br />
West Sikinos demonstrates particular interest due to its flora and<br />
morphology – steep rocky slopes and coasts – and it has been included<br />
in the Natura 2000 network.<br />
1 Chora- Paleokastro A route to north Sikinos, to the Malta cave, where<br />
the ancient citadel of the island lies at the location of Paleokastro. The<br />
view is breathtaking!<br />
2 Chora- Episkopi- Agia Marina A route of amazing view to the Aegean<br />
Sea, moving west of the imposing mountain of Troulos, the tallest on<br />
the island (552m), and leads to Episkopi, 4km southwest of Chora,<br />
76
S i k i n o s<br />
where Ionian colonizers built the ancient city of Sikinos. Monuments<br />
here are suggestive of the island's history: ruins of houses and a<br />
temple from the 3rd century BC, on whose place the church of Kimisi<br />
(Assumption of Virgin Mary) was built centuries later. The church is a<br />
rectangular building with marble Dorian columns. From Episkopi, the<br />
route continues to Agia Marina, where ruins of walls and an ancient<br />
settlement were found.<br />
Feasts and flavours<br />
All three hundred residents of Sikinos are very friendly and hospitable,<br />
and happy that tourism has not affected the character of their island.<br />
They will be proud to show you around the beautiful places of their<br />
island and will warmly invite you to their company and feasts at local<br />
celebrations, where you can join them in the traditional songs and<br />
dances, some with quicker steps – for the young men – and some<br />
slower and sensuous. In Sikinos, the celebrations of Virgin Mary are<br />
special: The feast of Pantanassa on 27 March, the feast at the<br />
monastery of Zoodochos Pigi on Easter Friday, the feast of Kimisi on<br />
15 August, and the feast of the Presentation of Virgin Mary.<br />
The speciality of the island is roast lamb or rabbit stuffed with<br />
potatoes, always garnished with salad with local capers, and wine –<br />
the fine wine after which the island was named “Inoi” in ancient years<br />
(from the Greek word oinos for wine). The select products of Sikinos<br />
include fresh fish and cheeses. During the holidays, women make<br />
honey pies, while the traditional treat at weddings and christenings is<br />
pasteli, all made with the delicious thyme honey of Sikinos.<br />
The “Sikinia” which include a number of sports and cultural activities<br />
take place in Chora every August.<br />
Those who love sea trips should visit the uninhabited islets of<br />
Kardiotissa, Kalogeri and Adelfia west of Sikinos, which have been<br />
included in the most important areas of the <strong>Cyclades</strong> in terms of<br />
geological interest and natural beauty (characterised as highly-valued<br />
areas, and included in the Natura 2000 network).<br />
ONLY IN SIKINOS<br />
Sikinos was the first island of the <strong>Cyclades</strong> to be listed as a biotope of<br />
major importance in Europe. You should definitely explore all places,<br />
including the outstanding Mavri Spilia, the largest cave of the island<br />
that uniquely combines rocky formations, the cool of caves and the<br />
sound of the waves.<br />
Let's go to Santorini…<br />
Only a stone's throw away!!!<br />
77
www.santorini.gr<br />
CHAT ROOM<br />
“Santorini”<br />
It is great, amazing, unique, even better than it looks in postcards.<br />
You're in Santorini now? When did you fall under its spell?<br />
The first minute I saw the island. The first minute I set foot here, the first minute<br />
I looked at the view, every minute.<br />
So, what are you doing at the internet cafe?<br />
Are you serious?? I've got my laptop out in the veranda!! I won't miss a minute…<br />
Get recommendations<br />
Santorini is worthily considered one of the<br />
most famous and highly desirable<br />
destinations on earth. Just think that, apart<br />
from the usual pictures, there is an entire<br />
island of beauty, incredible beaches, sights<br />
and attractions, more than enough to make<br />
Santorini a famous destination.<br />
How to get there<br />
Santorini is connected daily by air with<br />
Athens, as well as by sea with most islands<br />
of the <strong>Cyclades</strong> by speedboats or ferries.<br />
During summer months it is also connected<br />
to Thessaloniki and Crete.<br />
78
S A N T O R I N I<br />
The fascinating legend of the island that emerged out of the lathered<br />
sea –an island cut into two, the globally unique archaeological riches,<br />
the sublime folk architecture and the magic that no picture can<br />
capture make Santorini an island of surprises which reveals its true<br />
face when summer visitors are gone, out in the open sea.<br />
Santorini or Thera is at the far south of the <strong>Cyclades</strong>, together with<br />
Anafi. It covers an area of 73 square kilometers, in a circular<br />
arrangement together with Therasia and Aspronisi. In the centre of<br />
this circle is the caldera created after the major volcanic eruption in<br />
1650 BC. Inside the caldera, underwater eruptions caused the<br />
emergence of the isles of Palea Kameni and Nea Kameni – a unique<br />
phenomenon in the entire world.<br />
Santorini<br />
The capital of Thera - Fira- is accessible by car, or on foot or by riding<br />
a donkey up the old cobbled road opened in the rock, and by<br />
funicular railway. The settlement of Fira is a masterpiece of<br />
architectural perfection, with a great view to the caldera. The sights<br />
include the Orthodox and Catholic cathedrals, the Dominican<br />
convent, the Catholic monastery of Panagia of Rozario (Virgin of<br />
Rosarium), the Venetian Gizi manor which accommodates the<br />
79
Cultural Centre of Thera, and the characteristic much photographed<br />
chapel of Agios Minas. The Archaeological Museum of Thera exhibits<br />
excellent finds from the Geometric to the Roman Periods, while the<br />
Prehistoric Thera Museum exhibits masterpieces of prehistoric art in the<br />
Aegean.<br />
The view to the caldera is breathtaking from the picturesque location<br />
Firostefani, an extension of Fira to the north, with the church of Agios<br />
Gerasimos and the convent of Agios Nikolaos (1651), and of Imerovigli,<br />
a settlement of pure Cycladic architecture, built on the highest part of the<br />
caldera.<br />
Enjoyment from the first minute<br />
The capital of Thera - Fira- is accessible by car, or on foot or by riding a<br />
donkey up the old cobbled road opened in the rock, and by funicular<br />
railway. The settlement of Fira is a masterpiece of architectural<br />
perfection, with a great view to the caldera. The sights include the<br />
Orthodox and Catholic cathedrals, the Dominican convent, the Catholic<br />
monastery of Panagia of Rozario (Virgin of Rosarium), the Venetian Gizi<br />
manor which accommodates the Cultural Centre of Thera, and the<br />
characteristic much photographed chapel of Agios Minas. The<br />
Archaeological Museum of Thera exhibits excellent finds from the<br />
Geometric to the Roman Periods, while the Prehistoric Thera Museum<br />
exhibits masterpieces of prehistoric art in the Aegean.<br />
The view to the caldera is breathtaking from the picturesque location<br />
Firostefani, an extension of Fira to the north, with the church of Agios<br />
Gerasimos and the convent of Agios Nikolaos (1651), and from<br />
Imerovigli, a settlement of pure Cycladic architecture, built on the highest<br />
part of the caldera.<br />
Only a few steps away from the next sight<br />
Apano Meria in the north part of Santorini comprises the settlements of<br />
80
Oia, Tholos, Perivolos and Finikia. Small detached houses in<br />
harmonious colours are arranged on the crest of the caldera, right<br />
above the sea. Oia is famous for the wonderful view it offers of the<br />
sunset. It is the location of the Agios Nikolaos castle (1207), with the<br />
old church of Panagia Akathistou. Two hundred steps beneath the<br />
castle lead to the old port, Ammoudi and its picturesque fish taverns,<br />
from where boats can take visitors to Therasia in ten minutes. Oia has<br />
a long maritime tradition and is the seat of the Thera Marine Museum,<br />
one of the richest museums in Greece. On the mainland, at the<br />
location Mesa Gonia or Episkopi Gonias lies the church of Panagia,<br />
featuring a screen carved from blue marble. It is said to have been<br />
established by the Byzantine emperor Alexios Komnenos (11th<br />
century). In Pyrgos, a medieval settlement close to the Venetian<br />
Kasteli, lies Theotokaki, one of the oldest churches of the island (10th<br />
century), Christoulaki (Metamorfosi Sotiros), and the church of Agios<br />
1<br />
S a n t o r i n i<br />
Nikolaos Kisiras which has been carved in the rock. In Kontochori one<br />
can visit the wonderful Folk Museum of Lignos, which includes an entire<br />
hyposkafo house (traditional cave-cut house, where a space –horizontal<br />
tunnel- cut in the condensed volcanic matter is shaped into a house with<br />
the addition of a front wall). Beautiful villages include Vothonas with two<br />
cave-cut churches, Mesaria featuring the Argyros mansion, and<br />
Megalochori, surrounded by vineyards. In Emporio which offers<br />
unimpeded views to both sides of the island, one can see the old<br />
windmills and the ruins of a Venetian castle and a tower from the period<br />
of Turkish occupation.<br />
Routes for all<br />
Akrotiri The location 15 kilometres south of Fira, near the village<br />
Akrotiri, is a true revelation. The volcanic eruption caused the burial of a<br />
thriving city during the 2nd millennium BC under a thick layer of volcanic<br />
ash, but at the same time it helped it remain almost intact – a prehistoric<br />
Pompeii! The arrangement of the city is reminiscent of the Minoan<br />
palaces in Crete, and includes two and three-storey houses where the<br />
amazing frescoes of the ladies, the fisherman, the boxing boys, the blue<br />
monkeys and spring were discovered.<br />
2<br />
Oia- Fira A route that will overwhelm nature lovers, from the pedestrian<br />
route of the caldera to the old road to the chapel of Profitis Ilias and the<br />
chapel of Timios Stavros on the top of the mountain.<br />
81
3 Imerovigli- Skaros A 30 minute route, where steps lead to the Venetian<br />
Kasteli (fortified settlement) of Skaros, on the top of a steep rock over<br />
the sea. The view is tremendous all the way along.<br />
4 Perissa –Mesa Vouno- Ancient Thera After one hour's hike, we reach<br />
Mesa Vouno, the archaeological site of ancient Thera, where one can<br />
wander around iera odos (path to a temple), the agora, the theatre, the<br />
sanctuaries, the Gymnasium, the Roman thermae.<br />
5 Pyrgos– Mesa Vouno- Profitis Ilias- Ancient Thera A 4km route south<br />
of Pyrgos, in a beautiful area which has been included in the Natura<br />
2000 network, leads to the highest peak of the island (566m), in Mesa<br />
Vouno. The monastery also accommodates an Ecclesiastical and Folk<br />
Museum, with rare exhibits like the manuscript codices from the 8th<br />
century, icons of the Cretan School from the 15th century, and the mitre<br />
of archbishop Gregorios V. The route ends at ancient Thera.<br />
6 The trip around the caldera on a boat and a visit to the islands of Nea<br />
Kameni, Palea Kameni and Therasia are unique experiences. In Nea<br />
Kameni, following a 30 minute walk on particularly warm soil, you will<br />
stand before the crater! The strong smell near the crater indicates the<br />
presence of sulphur, also concentrated in the green waters of the coasts.<br />
Palea Kameni has warm springs and yellowish-blue waters coloured by<br />
sulphur.<br />
Sea and action<br />
The beaches of Santorini, with their characteristic black or reddish sand,<br />
are charming in a special way: Exo Gialos, the Red and the White beach,<br />
Mesa Pigadia with the unique cave, Vlychada with the yellowish<br />
weathered rocks that form small caves and natural sculptures – a<br />
magnificent scenery! The settlement of Kamari features a very long<br />
beach and Perissa an endless beach of black sand and dark blue waters.<br />
Perissa is also the settlement where the largest church of Santorini,<br />
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S a n t o r i n i<br />
Timios Stavros (19th century) is located. In Pori, one can admire the<br />
large church of Panagia Kalou (1650) and enjoy swimming at a remote<br />
sandy beach.<br />
For the friends of diving, there are two diving centres: in Perissa and in<br />
Kamari.<br />
Feasts and flavours<br />
Santorini produces products of special quality and taste. The wines<br />
“brousko”, “nychteri” and sweet “vinsanto” are very famous. The locally<br />
produced dark-yellow fava beans make the basic ingredient for<br />
numerous delicious traditional dishes (puree, croquettes, soups). Also<br />
the tomato croquettes with the unique fleshy tomatoes of Santorini are<br />
out of this world! Another delicacy, the salted “apokti”.<br />
Traditional dishes cooked on the stove and local wine are available at<br />
the restaurants and taverns of the island, but it would be best if you could<br />
try them at one of the numerous feasts. The feast at the monastery of<br />
Profitis Ilias on 20 July, the celebration of Panagia Episkopis on 15<br />
August, the celebration of Agios Ioannis in Perissa on 29 August. The<br />
feast of Agii Epta Pedes (Seven Sleepers) takes place on 4 August, in a<br />
small cave-cut chapel in Finikia, right above the caldera, and can be<br />
accessed only by boat.<br />
Traditional weddings take place in summertime in Akrotiri, while Easter<br />
celebrations in Santorini are an unforgettable experience. During the<br />
Epitaph procession in Pyrgos, torches are lit up on all alleys. During<br />
Easter, women make melitinia, sweet pastries with fresh unsalted<br />
skimmed-milk cheese. The traditional sugarplums are served at<br />
weddings, sweets made of almonds boiled in local honey – an exquisite<br />
experience for the palate!<br />
ONLY IN SANTORINI<br />
The view as the ferry approaches the island is breathtaking. A steep<br />
reddish-black rock of 300 metres – the caldera walls – stands imposing.<br />
And as the ferry approaches, human presence can be discerned – small<br />
houses and blue church domes – an impressive sight!<br />
Don't miss the chance to walk the route Fira-Firostefani-Imerovigli-Oia.<br />
The view to the caldera is unique in the world.<br />
Let's go to Therasia…<br />
Only a stone's throw away!!!<br />
83
www.thirasia.gr<br />
CHAT ROOM<br />
“Therasia”<br />
It's so close to here, how different can it be?<br />
It's really something else. Like another version of the same story. Therasia is peaceful,<br />
truly calm.<br />
Just what I want. I guess it has warm people, great places, good food. You'll love it.<br />
Besides, it's at the centre of the best and most famous view in the Aegean Sea.<br />
Get recommendations<br />
Therasia is so close and yet so far from<br />
Santorini. Although part of the same island,<br />
Therasia has a different air from Santorini;<br />
it's calmness and simplicity make its beauty<br />
even more fascinating. It's really worth<br />
visiting the place that everyone admires from<br />
Oia.<br />
How to get there<br />
Daily ferries or fast boats to Santorini will<br />
take you to the port of Athinio, where boats<br />
sail to Riva and Korfos in Therasia.<br />
Frequent itineraries link Ammoudi in Oia<br />
with Riva and Korfos (a journey of 15<br />
minutes).<br />
There are also ferry connections with<br />
Piraeus at least twice a week.<br />
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T H E R A S I A<br />
Therasia has the same geological history and common architecture as<br />
Santorini, and the residents of both islands have common customs and<br />
traditions. However, although so close to the cosmopolitan island, Therasia is<br />
little affected by tourism, keeping its original character intact. The whitewashed<br />
houses with the colourful small gardens – alitanes -, the wild beauty<br />
of the brown and black earth, shrubby vegetation, the rocky sculptures<br />
created by the volcano, the wind and the waves, and the harmonious<br />
contrast of the aquamarine waters make this simple island a scenery of total<br />
serenity and relaxation, an ideal refuge for all those who want to escape the<br />
pressure of urban life.<br />
The settlements of Therasia, which together with Oia in Santorini form a<br />
single community, are populated by approximately 300 residents, mainly<br />
fishermen and farmers.<br />
Part of a long history<br />
2<br />
Therasia is a 9km piece of land that was detached from the ancient island<br />
of Strongyli after the tremendous eruption in 1650 BC. It is located in the<br />
northwest part of the caldera at a distance of less than one mile from Oia,<br />
forming the round shape of the ancient island together with Santorini and<br />
Aspronisi.<br />
As evidenced by the archaeological finds (remains of buildings, ceramic<br />
vessels), Therasia participated in the impressive prehistoric civilization of<br />
Strongyli during the 2nd millennium BC, which was destroyed by the<br />
85
volcanic eruption. It takes its name from the beautiful daughter of Theras, the<br />
ruler of the Lacedemonians who settled in Santorini after the destruction, at the<br />
end of the 12th century BC.<br />
Infinite attractions<br />
The capital (Chora) of Therasia is Manolas, a typical Cycladic settlement up on<br />
the caldera crest, offering an amazing view of Santorini. In Manolas one can<br />
find fully equipped lodgings with a view to the caldera, cafes and restaurants<br />
with wonderful home-made dishes. The gem of the settlement is the<br />
magnificent church of Agios Konstantinos built in 1874.<br />
Slated steps lead from Chora down to Korfos, the old port of the island, where<br />
you can see the windmill, the boats and the picturesque taverns and have fresh<br />
fish and delicious titbits right next to the sea. The mules can take you down to<br />
the port, whilst you enjoy the amazing view of the volcano.<br />
At the north tip of the island is Riva, the port at which the ferries dock from<br />
Piraeus and Athinio in Santorini, as well as the boats coming from Ammoudi in<br />
Oia. Here you can find picturesque fish taverns and the wonderful beach Mavri<br />
Paralia with its crystal clear waters. High above the port lies the chapel of Agia<br />
Irini, after whose Latin name (Santa Irini) the duke Markos Sanoudos named<br />
Thera as Santorini.<br />
On the east side of the island there are rectangular, parallel formations of white<br />
lava, with picturesque valleys extending between them. The villages of Agrilia<br />
(route 1) and Potamos where built in similar valleys. Potamos is a village with<br />
numerous cave-cut houses and terraces full of geraniums and bougainvilleas.<br />
In Potamos one can also see the imposing churches of Agios Dimitrios and<br />
Panagia Giatrena.<br />
Routes for all<br />
Hiking on the volcanic earth of Therasia, a place of wild beauty, among dry walls,<br />
terraces and vineyards, and along paths full of fragrant herbs, thyme and<br />
oregano looking over to the terrific caldera, is an enchanting and fascinating<br />
experience for all visitors. Innumerable rymidia -– small country roads - cross the<br />
mainland, leading to many alternative hiking routes.<br />
1 Potamos - Agrilia A path to the west of Potamos leads to Agrilia, a village not<br />
visible in the valley. It is the island's oldest and largest farming settlement, with<br />
cave-cut houses and canavas (wineries) in perfect harmony with the natural<br />
environment. At the entrance of the settlement stands Panagia Isodion<br />
(Presentation of Virgin Mary) or Panagia of Langadi, which was built in 1887 and<br />
is distinguished by its striking architecture and amazing decorative carvings.<br />
2 Manolas - Kera - Trypiti Kera, a settlement abandoned 30-40 years ago, is<br />
located at the foothill of Profitis Ilias, southeast of Chora, a short distance before<br />
the end of the island, and offering a panoramic view of the caldera. It is also the<br />
location of the Trypiti cave and the monastery of Panagia Trypiti, dedicated to the<br />
Assumption of Virgin Mary.<br />
One of the most impressive of the volcanic veins of the caldera can be seen from<br />
the south edge of the island. This is a vertical path of lava which has flowed over<br />
86
3<br />
4<br />
older lava formations and, due to the erosion of the surrounding materials,<br />
proturudes, giving the impression of low walls.<br />
Kera - Profitis Ilias A route west of Kera to the chapel of Profitis Ilias, offering<br />
panoramic views at an altitude of 279 metres.<br />
West Therasia A trip to the fertile west plain of the island with beautiful vineyards<br />
and plantations of tomato and fava beans.<br />
Feasts and flavours<br />
Therasia features 21 churches and chapels/offerings to the saints to protect<br />
seamen, built on rocks and in valleys. The entire island takes part in the<br />
traditional celebrations, providing entertainment with local songs and dances.<br />
Some of the feasts of Therasia are: on 5 May the celebration of Agia Irini in Riva,<br />
on 21 May the celebration of Agios Konstantinos, also the patron saint of Chora,<br />
on 20 July the celebration of Profitis Ilias in Kera, on 15 August the celebration of<br />
Panagia Trypiti in Kera, on 21 September the celebration of Panagia Giatrena in<br />
Potamos, on 21 November the celebration of Panagia Isodion in Agrilia.<br />
It would be a pity to leave Therasia without having tasted the local delicacies.<br />
The volcanic soil of the island and warm, dry climate produce some unique<br />
products: small fleshy tomatoes, courgettes, amber fava beans (try fava beans<br />
cooked with thyme, savory and capers, it is amazing!). Therasia produces<br />
exquisite wines from white – asyrtiko, athiri, aidani - and red – mandilaria,<br />
mavrotragano- varieties and of course the famous brousko and liasto vinsanto<br />
T h e r a s i a<br />
wines. The local fresh cheese and salted fish are delicious.<br />
The women of Therasia make a wonderful preserve called “sykamnoglyko”<br />
made of blackberries; for weddings they prepare the traditional sugarplums<br />
made of almonds boiled in local thyme honey; at Easter they make sweet<br />
melitinia pastries, made of fresh unsalted skimmed-milk cheese, a special<br />
gourmet experience of the <strong>Cyclades</strong>!<br />
ONLY IN THERASIA<br />
Small houses and the traditional hyposkafa houses, horizontal tunnels cut in the<br />
condensed volcanic matter and shaped into a house with the addition of a front<br />
wall. Also, old windmills and narrow cobbled alleys with traditional shops,<br />
fragrant with the smell of fresh-baked bread from the traditional bakeries, are<br />
only a few of the typical images of Chora.<br />
Only Therasia offers endless views of Santorini.<br />
Let's go to Iraklia...<br />
Only a stone's throw away!!!<br />
87
www.iraklia.gr<br />
CHAT ROOM<br />
“Iraklia”<br />
Make up your mind soon, there's not much time left to book.<br />
Is it so busy? We were thinking of relaxed holidays.<br />
This is the Small <strong>Cyclades</strong>, there's not much room. Let's go to Iraklia,<br />
it's perfect. There are lots of options for sea sports, diving, fishing,<br />
and swimming.<br />
Lena was telling me that it is unique in every aspect. A small but<br />
miraculous island. It encompasses everything.<br />
Iraklia it is then! Maybe I can talk other friends into joining us.<br />
Get recommendations<br />
Iraklia is a great option for those who want to<br />
escape the pressure of routine. Visitors will<br />
enjoy it from the first moment, and every<br />
moment is full of pleasant surprises.<br />
Whether its a delicious dish, a magical<br />
underwater scene, or an unexpected feast.<br />
How to get there<br />
Iraklia is connected daily with Piraeus and<br />
Naxos by ferries and fast boats. The island<br />
is also connected with other islands of the<br />
<strong>Cyclades</strong>, by the famous boat “Skopelitis”,<br />
which has itineraries connecting the islands<br />
of Small <strong>Cyclades</strong> and with Amorgos.<br />
88
I R A K L I A<br />
Iraklia is at the far west of the Small Eastern <strong>Cyclades</strong>, south of Naxos and<br />
northeast of Ios. Life in Iraklia is different, calm and relaxing, with many<br />
alternatives for walks and fascinating explorations, swimming in crystal<br />
clear waters, diving into the wonderful sea, and festivities at traditional<br />
celebrations.<br />
The quiet sandy beaches with the clear blue waters include Agios<br />
Georgios, Livadi, Vorini Spilia and Alimia. Pebbly beaches include<br />
Tourkopigado, Ammoudi of Merichas, and Karvounolakos with its black<br />
rocks. Xylombatis and Tribounas are beaches with low rocks.<br />
Iraklia is ideal for diving, since it offers wonderful water, with rich<br />
underwater life and sea beds. The area is a refuge to the Mediterranean<br />
seal.<br />
A small island with a big heart<br />
The island covers an area of 18 square kilometres, whose 120<br />
residents engage in fishing, stockfarming, agriculture and apiary.<br />
The capital of Iraklia is Panagia or Pano Meria, a picturesque settlement<br />
built at the centre of the island with white cube-shaped houses,<br />
dominated by the church of Isodia Theotokou (Presentation of the Virgin<br />
Mary) built in 1919, impressive due to its great size.<br />
A 4km asphalt road links Chora with the second settlement and port of<br />
the island, Agios Georgios, on the north coast. This beautiful village<br />
extends along a bay with crystal blue waters, fish boats and caiques.<br />
The gem of the settlement is the church of Agios Georgios, built in 1834.<br />
The sights which are definitely worth visiting include the church of<br />
Taxiarchis (Archangel), a privately-owned church from the end of the<br />
89
19th century with a magnificent screen, Agia Paraskevi, and the chapel of<br />
Agios Mamas.<br />
Feasts and flavours<br />
The residents of Iraklia are warm and always welcoming to visitors. There<br />
are 80 rooms to let on the island, so during summer months it is advisable to<br />
book early.<br />
The small taverns, cafes and bars on the island are charming, clean, and<br />
offer excellent service, while traditional festivities offer a chance for a<br />
different type of human contact and fun.<br />
On the eve of the 15th of August and on the actual day, a traditional feast is<br />
held until the early hours in Panagia; similar festivities take place on 9<br />
November for the celebration of Agios Nektarios. A massive feast is held on<br />
the celebration of Agios Georgios, the patron saint of the settlement named<br />
after him, as well as on 8 November for the celebration of the Archangels.<br />
Summer months include events such as fish festivals, as well as theatre<br />
plays and music evenings.<br />
Famous among the products of Iraklia are the fine thyme honey and excellent<br />
cheese products (myzithra, xinomyzithra, anthotyro and hard cheese). Local<br />
products also include “aranista” (a type of bulgur wheat) and ”pitaridia” (homemade<br />
pasta).<br />
At the local taverns, try fava beans, locally produced by the farmers of the<br />
island and, of course, fresh fish and local delicious meats.<br />
At Easter, the gourmet tradition of Iraklia dictates roast lamb or goat stuffed<br />
with bulgur wheat, butter, cheese and walnuts, while the holiday treat is<br />
meletinia (sweet cheese pies), xerotigana (deep fried pastry), and last but not<br />
least, pasteli.<br />
Routes for all<br />
Iraklia is the perfect place for hikers, since there are many mountains where<br />
90
I r a k l i a<br />
numerous endemic plants grow. Walking on old stone-paved paths, one can<br />
see rare species of birds and enjoy the wonderful view. The island has been<br />
included in the Natura 2000 network.<br />
100 metres in height, providing shelter for rock pigeons and birds of prey to<br />
nest.<br />
1<br />
Panagia - Agios Ioannis cave A route of 2.5km to the southwest of Panagia<br />
leads to the famous cave with its impressive formations of stalactites,<br />
stalagmites and columns.<br />
4<br />
Panagia - Vrysi A 1km route from Panagia leads to the spring which<br />
provides water to the settlement. The enchanting view and the cool water at<br />
the end of the route more than compensate hikers.<br />
2<br />
Panagia - Profitis Ilias - Papas peak A 2km route which passes by the<br />
chapel of Profitis Ilias and ends at the highest point of the island at 418m,<br />
from where one has an amazing view of all the surrounding islands (Ios,<br />
Paros, Antiparos, Naxos, Donoussa, Ikaria, Koufonissia, Schinousa,<br />
Amorgos, Anafi, Santorini), as well as almost all the jagged beaches of<br />
Iraklia, blending with the blue of the Aegean Sea.<br />
5 Panagia – Agios Athanasios A 1.5km route that all nature lovers will enjoy.<br />
An old path that crosses a torrent leads to the abandoned settlement of Agios<br />
Athanasios with its interesting street layout, houses of traditional Cycladic<br />
architecture and a great view.<br />
6 Agios Georgios - Agios Athanasios An alternative 3km route to the old<br />
settlement above, taking the old road.<br />
3<br />
Panagia - Ftero Mericha A 1.5km route that leads to a point of exquisite<br />
natural beauty: Merichas bay is surrounded by vertical rocks of more than<br />
91
The following routes will be accessible very soon:<br />
Agios Athanasios – Seladi, 1km to the slope of Papas hill. Agios Athanasios -<br />
Averou, 3.3km heading mainland, Averou-Agios Ioannis cave, 1.5km.<br />
On a hill near Livadi beach lies the Castle, an abandoned fort from the<br />
Hellenistic Period, showing the history of the island. Ruins of temples<br />
dedicated to Zeus and Tyche, the goddess of luck, were found in the same<br />
area.<br />
Action and sights<br />
If you happen to visit the island from April to June, and want to experience<br />
the traditional means of support in the countryside, ask to attend the cheesemaking<br />
process. Also, you will have the chance to enjoy farming activities on<br />
the following dates: apiary activities from 1 to 30 May, grape and honey<br />
harvest from 30 July to 10 August, olive harvest from 10 October to 29<br />
October.<br />
For more information address the community office.<br />
In Alimia bay, diving takes special dimensions: a German boat-plane which<br />
crashed during World War II can be seen in the shallows. Local seamen can<br />
guide you there.<br />
During summer months, there are daily trips by boat to beaches not<br />
accessible by land, and to the neighbouring islets of Venetiko (ruins of a<br />
Venetian castle found there), Megalos Avdelas and Mikros Avdelas, which<br />
have been listed as highly-valued areas.<br />
For more information address the community office.<br />
92
I r a k l i a<br />
ONLY IN IRAKLIA<br />
In the cave of Agios Ioannis, the largest cave of the <strong>Cyclades</strong> and one of the<br />
most important ones in Greece, one can see "cave milk" (rare watery<br />
stalagmite formations).<br />
On 28 August, the day before the celebration of Agios Ioannis, the evening<br />
prayer takes place inside the cave in the light of hundreds of candles, a<br />
magnificent setting.<br />
The cave offers a great view to the sea which can be reached by foot within<br />
30 minutes.<br />
Let's go to Schinoussa…<br />
Only a stone's throw away!!!<br />
93
www.schinoussa.gr<br />
CHAT ROOM<br />
“ Schinoussa”<br />
We should go to Schinoussa. We'll have the entire island to ourselves.<br />
It is a beautiful island, but… “to ourselves”?<br />
Well, 30 minutes is enough to walk around the entire island. So, we'll see,<br />
explore and enjoy all of it!<br />
It sounds nice. I always wanted to go to the Small <strong>Cyclades</strong>.<br />
Schinoussa! We'll get to know everyone, and become one big family!<br />
Get recommendations<br />
Schinoussa is like a big family, not waiting for<br />
tourists but offering a warm welcome to<br />
visitors, as Greek tradition suggests. The<br />
island is a beautiful place that has retained<br />
its pure character, full of sights and chances<br />
to enjoy your holidays in the Aegean Sea to<br />
the fullest<br />
How to get there<br />
The port of Mersini is regularly connected<br />
with Naxos, the remaining islands of the<br />
Small <strong>Cyclades</strong>, Amorgos, and other<br />
islands of the <strong>Cyclades</strong>.<br />
94
S C H I N O U S S A<br />
Schinoussa belongs to the cluster of the Small Eastern <strong>Cyclades</strong>, and<br />
is located between Iraklia and Koufonissia, southeast of Naxos. It<br />
covers an area of 9 square kilometres and is populated by 200<br />
residents who are involved in fishery, agriculture, livestock farming<br />
and tourism. On that small piece of land, visitors can enjoy beautiful,<br />
clear and secure beaches, the traditional hospitality and high spirits of<br />
the residents, and satisfy their need to relax and escape the pressure<br />
of urban life which usually haunts us during our holidays at touristy<br />
destinations.<br />
The name of Schinoussa originates from the Greek word schinos<br />
which means mastic, because of the mastic bushes that are<br />
abundant on the island. According to another interpretation, the<br />
island was named after a Venetian ruler called Schinoussa, who lived<br />
in a tower on the island during the Venetian occupation.<br />
The entire island, a place for you<br />
The capital of the island is Panagia, a settlement built on a hill inland,<br />
offering a great view of the surrounding islands. Everything here is<br />
friendly and hospitable: typical Cycladic houses surrounded by basil<br />
and bougainvillea, white-washed roads and smiling residents. At the<br />
95
centre of Chora lies the church of Isodia Theotokou (Presentation of the<br />
Virgin), where the famous icon of Panagia Akathi, guardian of the island,<br />
is kept. The icon is a rare representation of the Virgin. An Archaeological<br />
Museum operates in Chora, with several finds from land and sea<br />
excavations, which evidence that Schinoussa was an important area in<br />
the Early Cycladic civilization. Also, the Folk Museum exhibits traditional<br />
costumes, farming tools, old icons and other very interesting items.<br />
In Chora, visitors have many lodging options and can find numerous<br />
places for good food and drink, as well as places of entertainment<br />
offering live folk music, while for those who love after-hours fun, there is<br />
just one bar outside the settlement.<br />
The port of Mersini is located on the southwest coast of the island and is<br />
considered to be one of the best refuges for small crafts in the entire<br />
Aegean. The island has a few houses, two good fish taverns and the allwhite<br />
chapel of Agios Nikolaos in the bay.<br />
The second settlement of Schinoussa is Mesaria, located inland.<br />
Feasts and flavours<br />
In spite of its few residents, Schinoussa maintains a cultural tradition<br />
which remains unforgettable to those lucky enough to experience it. The<br />
centre of religious and social life of the island is the great feast on the<br />
celebration of Panagia Akathi in Chora, which takes place on the<br />
Saturday of Lent. Local delicacies are served and traditional music keeps<br />
spirits up until early morning. On 25 March, in Mesaria, after the service<br />
at the church of Evangelistria, food is served to everyone, and events<br />
follow, organised by school children.On 15 August, the two-day<br />
celebrations of Panagia are held in Chora, with music and dance events,<br />
and pottery and photography exhibitions. Other local festivities include<br />
those on 9 November of Agios Nektarios, on 1 December of Agios<br />
Filaretos, and on 6 December of Agios Nikolaos, with the celebrations of<br />
the picturesque chapel in the lighthouse at the port entrance, where the<br />
main treat is the traditional dish of cod with garlic paste. Schinoussa is<br />
96
famous for its fine stockfarming and farming products – veal, pork, goat,<br />
ladotyri cheese, xinotyro cheese, kopanisti, fava beans and string<br />
beans – sold at local shops. Popular dishes of the local cuisine include<br />
octopus with pasta, fresh seafood and the famous patatato (casserole<br />
meat with potatoes and herbs). The Easter table includes roast lamb<br />
stuffed with rice and herbs, as well as melitinia (pastries with myzithra,<br />
eggs and sugar), while pasteli, xerotigana and rakomelo (raki with<br />
honey) are the main treats at weddings.<br />
Routes for all<br />
The island is small and smooth, and is a pleasure for hikers (it only takes<br />
1.5 hours to walk around it). Walking on the stone-paved or country<br />
roads, visitors will be charmed by the richness of images, and discover a<br />
1<br />
2<br />
S c h i n o u s s a<br />
Chora - Vargies peak - Gerolimnionas A<br />
3.5km route which leads to the highest point<br />
of the island, at an altitude of 133m, where<br />
the view from the old windmill to the<br />
surrounding islands is amazing. The beach of<br />
Gerolimnionas, not accessible by car, is a<br />
short distance away.<br />
Chora – Mesaria – Kambos - Psili Ammos<br />
A 2.7km route leads to Mesaria, where<br />
visitors can see the old windmill and the<br />
church of Evangelistria with its beautiful<br />
coloured screen dating back to 1909. The<br />
highest rocky area of Mesaria features a<br />
second windmill and old abandoned stonebuilt<br />
houses, reminiscent of another era.<br />
Mesaria is followed by vineyards and Kambos, a large, almost flat<br />
cultivated area, and a pastureland. The route ends at the beach of Psili<br />
Ammos, where the sand reaches up the hill.<br />
rare flora which includes numerous endemic plants of the <strong>Cyclades</strong>, but<br />
also many trees, thus offering a different aspect of the Cycladic<br />
landscape. The island has been included in the Natura 2000 network.<br />
3 Chora - Stavros – Profitis Ilias hill - Almyros A 1.5km route that<br />
crosses the old settlement of Stavros and continues to the peak of the<br />
Profitis Ilias hill, where a fort from the Classical Period is located. The<br />
route ends at the beautiful beach of Almyros.<br />
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5<br />
Chora - port A 1.2km route, meeting the Pirate's cave, which is<br />
situated near the beach and next to a well, right above the small port.<br />
Chora - Tsigouri A short route (500m) that ends at the cosmopolitan<br />
beach of Tsigouri, with its crystal clear waters. A large settlement from<br />
the Hellenistic and Roman Periods, as well as an Early Christian<br />
basilica have been identified in Tsigouri.<br />
Beaches and attractions<br />
Other wonderful beaches include Alygaria, Lioliou (with trees for shade),<br />
Bazeou, Fountana, Fykio and Sifneiko. For those who love underwater<br />
fishing and sea sports, the sea of Schinoussa is ideal. The bays on the<br />
south and southeast side of the island are secure places to dock. The<br />
nearby islets of Ofidoussa, Agrilos and Klidoura have been listed as<br />
highly-valued areas and perfect for trips and diving.<br />
6 Chora – Livadi - Agios Vasilios peninsula A 1km route with a great<br />
view to the islets of Ofidoussa and Agrilos, leading to the peaceful<br />
beach of Livadi with its crystal clear waters. It is the starting point of the<br />
Agios Vasilios peninsula, featuring an all-white Byzantine church and<br />
the beach of Agios Vasilios at the tip.<br />
ONLY IN SCHINOUSSA<br />
The island is famous for its residents' love of singing, so much so that<br />
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S c h i n o u s s a<br />
every house has a musician. Indeed, Schinoussa is the homeland of<br />
many famous singers, musicians and composers.<br />
Imagine, then, how worthwhile it will be to experience the festivals and<br />
celebrations - so plan<br />
ahead! .<br />
Let's go to Koufonissia…<br />
Only a stone's throw away!!!<br />
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www.koufonisia.gr<br />
CHAT ROOM<br />
“Koufonissia”<br />
Fresh fish is in itself a good reason to go to Koufonissia.<br />
It's so beautiful, you can find your own beach with crystal clear<br />
waters, and all you can think about is food…<br />
I'm thinking of everything! The crowds, and the noise and the<br />
fuss…so I vote for Koufonissia.<br />
We should also visit Keros, it's right next to Koufonissia.<br />
Look! At night Keros looks like a woman lying on the sea!!!<br />
Get recommendations<br />
The spirits in Koufonissia are always up. You<br />
will feel this in every greeting, in every feast,<br />
in every moment.<br />
It is beautiful, from the view, to the sea, to the<br />
underwater images. At lunch time, you'll<br />
discover even more good reasons that make<br />
Koufonissia a unique destination.<br />
How to get there<br />
Koufonissia is connected all year round by<br />
local itineraries with Naxos, Amorgos and<br />
the other islands of the small <strong>Cyclades</strong>, and<br />
by ferries with Piraeus. Fast boat<br />
connections are added in the summer<br />
months.<br />
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K O U F O N I S S I A<br />
The cluster of Koufonissia includes the islands of Pano and Kato<br />
Koufonissi which belong to the Small Eastern <strong>Cyclades</strong>. They are<br />
separated by a 200m-wide channel.<br />
The hectic and noisy outside world cannot reach this small spot in the<br />
Aegean that has become a favourite destination for Greek and foreign<br />
visitors, offering them an ideal chance to enjoy beaches with golden sand<br />
and clear blue waters, small natural pools, sea caves, authentic island<br />
festivals and, of course, an abundance of fish and seafood.<br />
One interpretation is that the name of Koufonissia originates from the<br />
Greek words koufos limin which means hollow port, due to the presence of<br />
a bay between the two islands and Glaronissi. A second interpretation is<br />
that the characterization of hollow originates from the numerous caves<br />
seen at the beaches, as the waves weather and make the islands hollow.<br />
Pano Koufonissi (or just Koufonissi) which covers an area of just 3.5km2<br />
and has approximately 300 permanent residents, is the smallest, but<br />
also the most densely populated island of the <strong>Cyclades</strong>. Kato Koufonissi<br />
covers an area of 4.3km2 and is practically uninhabited.<br />
Koufonissia have been inhabited since the prehistoric period, and was a<br />
centre of the Early Cycladic civilisation, as evidenced by the<br />
archaeological finds in Epano Mili, the most important being a frying panshaped<br />
vessel with an engraved nine-point star, currently exhibited at the<br />
Museum of Naxos.<br />
In Pano Koufonissi, next to the port, is the only settlement of the island,<br />
Chora. It is a typical fishing village featuring charming alleys, white-<br />
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washed houses, and the characteristic white windmill left of the quay. The<br />
centre of the settlement is dominated by the church of the patron saint, Agios<br />
Georgios.<br />
In Chora, there are numerous lodging options, restaurants and taverns<br />
serving local seafood. For boat owners, there is a petrol station, as well as a<br />
shipyard for repairs in the same area as the marina, while at a distance of<br />
1.5km from the port, at the Charakopou, there are rooms to let and a<br />
campsite.<br />
If you happen to be in Koufonissi on a night with a full moon, you will see<br />
something unique: the neighbouring island of Keros looks like the figure of a<br />
woman lying on the waters of the Aegean!<br />
You can take your own craft or a caique from the island to visit Kato<br />
Koufonissi, a place of intact beauty, with sandy beaches ideal for relaxation<br />
and isolation. The only buildings you will see here are the chapel of Panagia,<br />
built on the quay on the site of ancient ruins, and the few fishermens' houses.<br />
Feasts and flavours<br />
The people of Koufonissi are famous for their high spirits. Just a small excuse<br />
is needed to set up a huge feast. On 23 April, on the celebration of Agios<br />
Georgios, the hosting celebrator walks around the island holding the icon of<br />
the saint, while all the boats of the island accompany him on his tour, sailing<br />
along the coastline, and at night the feast culminates. The last Saturday of<br />
June is the celebration of fishermen, where delicious seafood titbits and wine<br />
are served; on 20 July, the celebration of Profitis Ilias, the respective hosts<br />
treat people and dance to the sounds of violin and lyre. On 15 August, all<br />
residents sail to Kato Koufonissi for the celebration of the Virgin. The service is<br />
followed by a feast with fish, lamb and goat. After the end of the feast, the boats<br />
race back to the island, and treats follow accompanied by violins.<br />
On 6 December, the celebration of Agios Nikolaos, the service is followed by a<br />
feast with seafood and seasoned raki (sweet drink with raki, honey and herbs)<br />
– a very tasteful start for the feast to follow, while Easter is celebrated with<br />
special reverence and traditional customs. The procession of the Epitaph takes<br />
place at the port, which is lit up with torches, and after the resurrection of Jesus<br />
is celebrated, night becomes day with fireworks.<br />
The local products include fresh fish and seafood, as well as wild goat and<br />
xinomyzithra cheese. Patatato (meat cooked with potatoes in tomato sauce) is<br />
very popular on holidays and feasts, and so are the traditional pasteli sweets,<br />
served on lemontree leaves, and xerotigana (deep fried pastry).<br />
Routes for all<br />
Koufonissi, which together with the surrounding islands has been included in<br />
the Natura 2000 network, has an almost flat surface where rare species of flora<br />
with numerous endemic plants grow. There are no asphalt roads, but all<br />
distances can be walked (3 hours is enough to walk to the other end of the<br />
island and back), which makes cars unnecessary and the island ideal for<br />
hiking. Alternatively, the same distances can be covered by bikes, available for<br />
rent on the island.<br />
Each route will discover enchanting beaches with aquamarine waters<br />
alternating with caves formed in the rocks, while sand dunes are abundant next<br />
to the seaside path. In Xylopati lies a great sea cave which provides shelter to<br />
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2<br />
rock pigeons. After Platia Pounta with its wonderful green waters, you will see<br />
the “pools” – small protected coves and openings on the rocks – where<br />
swimming becomes an unforgettable experience.<br />
Chora – Loutro – Parianos – Limenari – Xylopatis – Pori - Platia Pounta<br />
(Italida) – Fanos – Finikas – Charakopou - Gialos A route around the<br />
island, following the coastline. Loutro is a very picturesque place, with the allwhite<br />
chapel of Agios Nikolaos and the old windmill above the small shipyard,<br />
where you can watch shipbuilders work in traditional methods; in Parianos<br />
bay, enjoy the view of the fishing fleet of the island.<br />
Chora - Profitis Ilias - Pano Meria A route with a great view that follows the<br />
inland paths of the island, leading to the chapel of Profitis Ilias, and areas<br />
where locals engage in their daily farming and stockfarming activities.<br />
Sea and action<br />
Koufonissia features magnificent waters, which become breathtaking as we<br />
approach Keros, an ideal place for lovers of diving. The rocky caves on the<br />
north coast of Koufonissi and Kato Koufonissi are ideal for amateur<br />
fishermen.<br />
Caiques (small boats) perform daily itineraries from Chora to the more distant<br />
beaches of the island, and to nearby islets, at very affordable cost. The islets<br />
Prasoura, Glaronissi, Voulgari, Tsouloufi, Lazaros, Megali Plaka, offer<br />
amazing beaches with aquamarine waters, listed as highly-valued areas.<br />
Koufonissia is ideal for sea sports such as wind surfing (Pori is a favourite<br />
place for surfers to train), while friends of land sports will have at hand facilities<br />
like mini soccer fields, basketball and volleyball courts, thus combining their<br />
holidays with their favourite sports.<br />
K o u f o n i s s i a<br />
Don't forget about Keros<br />
Closely linked to Koufonissia is Keros, a small uninhabited island without a<br />
port, covering an area of 15 km2. It is located 1.5 miles southeast of Pano<br />
Koufonissi, and has been one of the most important centres of the Cycladic<br />
civilisation.<br />
In ancient years, Keros was joined to the neighbouring islet of Daskalio. The<br />
main settlement of the island (currently sunken at its largest part) was located<br />
on the cove which lies between Keros and Daskalio. In Keros, finds of<br />
particular importance were discovered in an Early Cycladic cemetery. These<br />
include more than 100 marble figurines, among which the imposing 1.40m tall<br />
figurine of the great mother, and the famous figurines-symbols of the Early<br />
Cycladic civilization, the Flute Player and the Harp Player, currently exhibited<br />
at the Archaeological Museum of Athens. According to many studies, Keros<br />
was the sacred island of the <strong>Cyclades</strong> during the Early Cycladic Period, a<br />
place later taken by Delos.<br />
ONLY IN KOUFONISSIA<br />
In comparison with its population, Koufonissi has the largest fishing fleet in<br />
Greece! So fresh fish will be abundant at all times.<br />
Let's go to Donoussa...<br />
Only a stone's throw away!!!<br />
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www.donousa.gr<br />
CHAT ROOM<br />
“ Donoussa”<br />
Have you been to Donoussa?<br />
Yes, twice. It's amazing. One of the best places for holidays.<br />
I'm going this summer, so I'm getting recommendations. For the moment,<br />
I've heard nothing but the best.<br />
The only thing you'll miss is noise. Otherwise, the island is perfect.<br />
Great beaches and warm people, so I've heard.<br />
You won't believe how much…<br />
Get recommendations<br />
Donoussa is the place to check the reliability<br />
of your camera. It will be difficult to capture<br />
on film the aquamarine colour of the sea and<br />
the shimmer on the pebbles. In Donoussa,<br />
the light creates unique shades and hues,<br />
forming an image so magical and yet so real.<br />
How to get there<br />
Dounoussa is connected by sea with<br />
Piraeus and the remaining islands of the<br />
<strong>Cyclades</strong>, as well as with Amorgos.<br />
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D O N O U S S A<br />
It is located at the far north of the Small Eastern <strong>Cyclades</strong>, and belongs to<br />
the cluster between Naxos, Ios and Amorgos which also includes Iraklia,<br />
Koufonissia and Schinoussa. Away from the hectic rhythms of mass<br />
transportation, Donoussa is a true paradise for those who want to enjoy<br />
nature and experience the original character of the place and its residents,<br />
far away from the mainstream tourist resorts.<br />
Donoussa covers an area of 13 square kilometers, and has 160<br />
permanent residents who engage in fishing, stockfarming and, lately,<br />
tourism.<br />
Beauty has settled in Donoussa<br />
The capital and centre of tourism of the island is Donoussa or Stavros, a<br />
beautiful settlement with a traditional character, built on a bay on the<br />
southwest coast, where the port is also located, protected from the north<br />
winds of the Aegean Sea. The gem of the settlement is the chapel of<br />
Timios Stavros built in 1902, an all-white building of simple ecclesiastical<br />
architecture, featuring a blue dome and an amazing belfry. Stavros<br />
offers all that visitors need for a comfortable and pleasant stay. The<br />
smaller pier inside the port provides safe docking for private crafts. Next<br />
to the port is one of the most beautiful beaches on the island, with finegrain<br />
sand.<br />
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The other settlements of Donoussa are Charavgi or Mesaria, Mersini (east),<br />
and Kalotaritissa (north), distinguished by their picturesque character, all<br />
ideal places for hiking on the hilly and rocky soil of the island, whose shrubby<br />
vegetation gives off the scents of savory and rosemary.<br />
Routes for all<br />
Stavros - Kalotaritissa Following the path that crosses the imposing Papas<br />
mountain (its peak at 383 metres is the highest point of the island) and leads<br />
to Kalotaritissa, in the north part of Donoussa, visitors can walk along<br />
vineyards and olive groves, see the old mines of the island, and see cedar<br />
trees and mastic bushes growing, even on stone. A 1.5 hour route leads to<br />
the beautiful small village of Kalotaritissa featuring its low stone-built houses<br />
and the all-white church of Agios Georgios.<br />
at the roots of an age-old plane tree near the church of Agia Sofia. The place<br />
offers unimpeded views over the blue Aegean to Amorgos. A route to the<br />
south, to Vathy Limenari, leads to the ruins of settlements from the Geometric<br />
period, which are the first signs of inhabitance of the island. Mersini features a<br />
different sight: the combined power station which supplied the settlement with<br />
electricity until 2002.<br />
Sea and attractions<br />
For sea lovers, the south coasts of Donoussa offer the amazing beaches<br />
Kedros, Vathy Limenari, Livadi and Fykio with aquamarine waters. In north<br />
Donoussa, the three beaches in Kalotaritissa are impressive, with their small<br />
2 Stavros - Charavgi A 4.5km route leading to Charavgi, with its traditional<br />
stone-built houses.<br />
3 Charavgi - Mersini After a distance of 1.5km, an oasis of apricot, peach and<br />
fig trees awaits the walker in Mersini, where cool water from the spring flows<br />
pebbles and crystal clear waters.<br />
The two impressive caves of the island can be accessed only by sea. In the<br />
area of Aspros Kavos, northwest, lies the imposing stalactitic cave of Tichos<br />
where boats seek refuge from the storms. Fokospilia, a marine cave of<br />
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D o n o u s s a<br />
exceptional natural beauty and refuge to seals is located on the east coast,<br />
on the steep cave of Moschonas. Both caves can be accessed by the<br />
municipality boat which performs daily trips to the beaches of the island.<br />
The waters of the surrounding rocky islets Makares, Moschonas,<br />
Skoulonissi and Melantii are amazing. They have been listed as highlyvalued<br />
areas, and are ideal for trips, diving and fishing.<br />
Feasts and flavours<br />
The serenity and simplicity of life in Donoussa relaxes and charms visitors,<br />
while local feasts are the best chance for fun and an acquaintance with the<br />
traditions of the island. Major festivities are organized on 15 August in<br />
Stavros and on the day before 14 September (celebration of the Holy<br />
Cross), where folk dances will keep you up until dawn. The main dish is the<br />
delicious “patatato” (goat cooked in tomato sauce and herbs). In Mersini, on<br />
17 September, the celebration day of Agia Sofia, people attend the service<br />
and then walk down to the spring that flows under the plane tree near the<br />
church, followed by a special festival.<br />
The island's delicacies include kid stuffed with rice, salted pork, fried pies of<br />
wild greens, and of course the fine “axialomyzithra” cheese, and homemade<br />
pasta called “klosta” and “pitaridia”. The local red sweet or semi-sweet<br />
wines made of varieties like voudomato, rozaki, mandilaria, athiri or fokiano<br />
are very tasty, while October is the period for the seasoning of raki, served<br />
with dried figs. The sweets of Donoussa are complemented by the<br />
traditional pasteli (served on lemon tree leaves), loukoumi made of fine<br />
wheat flour and sugar (traditional treat at weddings), and the delicious<br />
Fotopites, which are doughnuts made on Epiphany.<br />
ONLY IN DONOUSSA<br />
On a hill east of Stavros lie the imposing “twin” churches of Panagia and<br />
Agios Ioannis, a special architectural complex, where the two basilicas unite<br />
under a small belfry.<br />
Diving fans will love Kedros, in whose waters they will see the wreck of a<br />
German ship that was sunk by the Allies during World War II.<br />
Let's go to Amorgos…<br />
Only a stone's throw away!!!<br />
107
www.amorgos.gr<br />
CHAT ROOM<br />
“Amorgos“<br />
Off to Amorgos? Is it a good option?<br />
This will be the third time I'm going. The perfect place for<br />
reflection.<br />
The only thing I've heard is that it has great beaches and<br />
tasty potatoes.<br />
Hey!! You mean the patatato dish, which has no potatoes!!!<br />
It's a great delicacy.<br />
Is it a good destination? How about the beat on the island?<br />
Once you see what it has to offer, your heartbeat will<br />
definitely increase..<br />
Get recommendations<br />
When on boat trips, the ferry often stopped at<br />
Katapola-Egiali, so I thought it would be nice to<br />
actually go some time. It was just perfect. The entire<br />
island is beautiful. Even just walking around is great.<br />
Hectic, but it was worth it. Not that I plan to go on<br />
such long walks ever again, but Amorgos…I can go<br />
back any time!!<br />
How to get there<br />
The two ports of Amorgos, Katapola and Egiali,<br />
are connected with Piraeus and other islands of<br />
the <strong>Cyclades</strong> all year round. Ferries connect<br />
the island with Naxos, the Small <strong>Cyclades</strong> and<br />
Amorgos on a daily basis, while in summer<br />
months there are also itineraries to Paros and<br />
Antiparos. Also, boats perform regular<br />
itineraries to distant beaches.<br />
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A M O R G O S<br />
In the middle of the Big Blue<br />
Amorgos is located southeast of Naxos, and is the far easterly island of<br />
the <strong>Cyclades</strong>. With is special natural beauty, the plain architecture of its<br />
villages and the warm residents, but also with its rich cultural heritage,<br />
Amorgos resists the speed of modern life, becoming a pleasant surprise<br />
for all visitors.<br />
Tourism infrastructure has developed at the centres of the island, as well<br />
as in all villages, and visitors can find plenty of lodging options, and taverns<br />
with delicious home-made food and fresh fish.<br />
The approximately 1,800 residents of the island are occupied in<br />
navigation, fishery, agriculture, livestock farming and tourism.<br />
The name of the island possibly originates from the Greek plant amorgos,<br />
cultivated in ancient years to provide the material for much in-demand<br />
cloaks.<br />
Take a walking tour<br />
Chora is the capital of Amorgos, built away from the sea for protection<br />
from pirates. The narrow stone-paved alleys, the small all-white houses<br />
with blue windows, the two-storey mansions and the dozens of churches,<br />
together with the windmills on the top of the hill, compose a picture of<br />
simple beauty that fascinates visitors. The imposing castle built in the 13th<br />
century by Jeremiah Gizi, where the walls with their arrow-slits are<br />
109
pleasant stay.<br />
On a hill above the port lies the ancient city of Minoa. Among the historical<br />
monuments of the area, the most interesting are the church of Panagia<br />
Katapoliani, which was built on the site of an ancient temple (possibly<br />
dedicated to Apollo), and Evangelistria in Xylokeratidi, a small church from the<br />
Early Byzantine period, featuring impressive architecture.<br />
preserved, is located on a rock in the middle of the village. The Venetian<br />
Tower of Gavras (16th century) hosts the Archaeological Collection of<br />
Amorgos, including the finds of excavations performed on the three ancient<br />
cities of the island (Egiali, Arkesini and Minoa). The finds which stand out are<br />
those of the kouros and kore from the 6th century. The sights of Chora<br />
include the ruins of a tower from the Hellenistic Period, Kato Lakkos – a<br />
medieval reservoir which used to supply Chora with water -, the post-<br />
Byzantine churches of Kera Leousa, Stavros, Agios Thomas, Mitropoli, Agii<br />
Pantes, Agios Stefanos, the historical dependency of Fotodotis Christos, and<br />
Allilodidaktiko, one of the first high schools established in Greece after the<br />
War of Independence in 1821.<br />
On the north part of Amorgos lies Egiali, the second port and one of the island's<br />
tourist resorts, as well as three more picturesque settlements: Potamos,<br />
offering a panoramic view of the port, Langada which is built in a crescent<br />
shape above the Egiali plain, and Tholaria, featuring cobbled alleys and<br />
arches. The area near Tholaria was the location of the citadel of ancient Egiali<br />
(route 4). From Potamos one can enjoy one of the most beautiful sunsets of the<br />
Aegean.<br />
110<br />
The first impression is overwhelming<br />
The port of Chora, on the west coast of the island, is Katapola, an excellent<br />
natural port. The visitor is charmed by the crystal clear waters of the bay in all<br />
shades of blue, and the plain beyond with its orchards and olive groves, while<br />
the numerous lodging options and shops meet all the requirements of a
A m o r g o s<br />
Kato Meria is of exceptional archaeological and<br />
historic interest. The area has managed to maintain<br />
its traditional farming character intact. Here one can<br />
see the settlements of Kamari, Vroutsi, Arkesini,<br />
Kolofana and Kalotaritissa, as well as the great beach<br />
of Mouro, Ammoudi, Kato Kambos, Paradisia, and<br />
Kalotaritissa bay, a natural fishing refuge.<br />
Celebrations and feasts<br />
A great feast is organized on 26 July in Paradisia, at the southwest tip of the<br />
island, at the church of Agia Paraskevi. The feast will be a great way to get to<br />
know how locals celebrate with traditional songs and dances. Other important<br />
festivities include the celebrations of Agii Anargyri on 1 July in Tholara,<br />
Panagia Epanochoriani on 15 August in Langada, and Agios Ioannis on 29<br />
August in Vroutsi. The carnival custom of the “captain” which is seen in<br />
Langada on the Sunday of Tyrini is famous; the Easter period has a unique<br />
charm in Amorgos, with the simple grandeur of the Epitaph procession<br />
through the all-white alleys, and the festivities and dances after Easter. Other<br />
festivities include the klidonas celebration on the evening of 23 June, the<br />
pasteli feast in August in Chora, while traditional weddings in Amorgos are a<br />
special experience.<br />
Flavours<br />
The cuisine of Amorgos will satisfy even the most demanding visitors. Apart<br />
from the famous patatato, it includes giaprakia (stuffed cabbage leaves),<br />
kalogiri (aubergines stuffed with meat and cheese), and fresh fish, always<br />
accompanied by the island's fine white or red wine. The traditional treats on<br />
holidays are pasteli served on olive leaves, xerotigana, rakomelo and<br />
seasoned raki (sweet drink with raki, honey and herbs).<br />
Routes for all<br />
The nature of Amorgos, its monuments and cultural heritage, all all there for<br />
the visitor to discover through the numerous alternative hiking routes that the<br />
island offers.<br />
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1 Chora - Hozoviotissa Monastery - Potamos – Egiali bay From Chora, a<br />
2 1.5km-long path leads to the east coast of the island, to the monastery of<br />
Panagia Hozoviotissa. This is an awe-inspiring multi-level building of special<br />
architectural character built at an altitude of 300m above sea level, on the<br />
steepest rock of Profitis Ilias mountain (698 m). According to tradition, the<br />
monastery was established in 1088 by the Byzantium Emperor Alexios<br />
Komnenos. A rich collection of Byzantine manuscripts, holy vessels and other<br />
historic and ecclesiastical relics are exhibited at the monastery. The<br />
celebrations of the monastery are held on 21 November, when fried cod and<br />
other fish are offered. Moving north above steep rocks, the route moves<br />
inland and, after 11.5km, ends at Egiali bay.<br />
2 Chora - Katapola A 3.5km route, where the difference in altitude between<br />
Chora and the sea is breathtaking.<br />
3<br />
4<br />
Lefkes - Agii Saranta – Kamari - Kastri (ancient Arkesini) - Vroutsi –<br />
Rachoula - Arkesini A long route that traverses historic sights evidencing<br />
uninterrupted cultural growth over thousands of years. Monuments from the<br />
Early and Middle Cycladic Periods are preserved at the citadel of ancient<br />
Arkesini, on the hill of Kastela. Among these, significant are parts of Venetian<br />
forts and the Tower of Agia Triada, built in the 4th century BC using huge<br />
boulders.<br />
Egiali bay – Langada – Stroumbos - Panagia Epanochoriani - Tholaria A<br />
4.5km route of great cultural interest and a wonderful view over the bay of<br />
Egiali. In the area of Langada admire the old windmills, Araklos gorge, and the<br />
church of Panagia Epanochoriani. The hill of Vigla near Tholaria is the site of<br />
the citadel of ancient Egiali, where ruins of the walls, statue pedestals and<br />
tombs from the Early Cycladic and Middle Cycladic periods are preserved.<br />
5<br />
Langada - Agios Ioannis – Stavros - Krikelos An impressive route of wild<br />
beauty on the cliff-edge, where a stone-paved path leads to the Byzantine<br />
112
A m o r g o s<br />
monastery of Ioannis Theologos, and far north to the chapel of Stavros,<br />
above the old bauxite mine. The route, with a total length of 6.5km, ends at<br />
the highest point of Amorgos (821m) on mount Krikelos or Kroukelos, from<br />
where the view is unimpeded over the entire island and the Aegean Sea. The<br />
area has been included in the Natura 2000 network.<br />
6<br />
Katapola - Agios Georgios Valsamitis - Agia Marina - Minoa A route of<br />
exquisite natural beauty, passing the dependency of Agios Georgios<br />
Valsamitis and ending at ancient Minoa, on a hill above the port, where,<br />
according to tradition, Minos built his summer palace. Parts of the city walls,<br />
the stadium, the school and the temple dedicated to Dionysos are preserved<br />
to this day. On the same hill, traces of a settlement show that Amorgos was<br />
already inhabited in 4000 BC. A cemetery of the Early Cycladic period, as well<br />
as a domed Mycaenaean tomb were also found in the area.<br />
Worth visiting<br />
Ideal for trips are the surrounding islets of Gramvousa, Nikouria,<br />
Grambonissi, Petalidi and Psalida, listed as highly-valued landscapes, and full<br />
of good fishing spots.<br />
In Katapola are the magical sandy beaches of Kato Akrotiri, Maltezi, Finikies,<br />
Tyrokomos and Agii Saranta, as well as the rocky beaches of Plakes and<br />
Agios Panteleimon. In northern Amorgos, the beaches of Levrosos, Psili<br />
Ammos, Chochlakas and Agios Pavlos are ideal for swimming.<br />
ONLY IN AMORGOS<br />
The island has a distinct quality and sweetness which causes the visitor to pay<br />
special attention to its stunning natural environment and enjoy its almost<br />
mystical aura. Perhaps this was what the film "Big Blue” wanted to convey,<br />
found just a short distance from Chora, on the beach of Agia Anna with its fine<br />
pebbles and sand.<br />
Let's go to Kea…<br />
Only a stone's throw away!!!<br />
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www.kea.gr<br />
CHAT ROOM<br />
“Êea”<br />
We could go for the weekend first, and book for holidays later.<br />
It's very close, and a large island too.<br />
Large enough to find everything we seek. Even a capital up on<br />
the mountain, with a great view.<br />
But is it a typical Cycladic island? With beaches, clear waters and<br />
all the rest?<br />
It's amazing. You'll see for yourself. Visit Kea at every opportunity!<br />
Get recommendations<br />
Kea is very close to Attica, but also close to<br />
what seems the ideal spot for holidays. It<br />
offers culture, history and tradition, but it also<br />
has what it takes for relaxating holidays. And<br />
it is so close, that your holiday starts on the<br />
day you escape from routine.<br />
How to get there<br />
Ferries to Kea leave the port of Lavrio and<br />
the trip takes about 1 hour. Kea is also<br />
connected with Syros and Kythnos.<br />
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Ê Å Á<br />
Kea or Tzia is the “gate” to the <strong>Cyclades</strong>, the far west island of the<br />
<strong>Cyclades</strong> and closest to Attica. Its beautiful and rare natural<br />
environment, the originality of its villages and memories of past<br />
times fascinate visitors from the first moment, as thousands of years<br />
of history unfold before their eyes.<br />
The island was named after Ceos, a hero from Nafpactos who<br />
settled on the island in the 12th century BC. The island was later<br />
named Tzia during the Venetian occupation. Kea played an<br />
important role in the flourishing of the Cycladic civilisation, and was<br />
homeland to great figures of ancient Greece, such as the poets<br />
Simonides and Bacchylides.<br />
For hikers, Kea is a paradise. Paths with a total length of 36<br />
kilometres, 65% of which are stone-paved, cross dreamy routes<br />
through dense forests of tall oaks and lead to beautiful isolated<br />
beaches.<br />
Kea is the “next door” beauty<br />
Kea is one of the largest islands of the <strong>Cyclades</strong>, covering an area of<br />
131km2. The capital is Ioulida, a beautiful traditional village built in a<br />
crescent on the slope of the hill, featuring a Venetian castle from the<br />
13th century, narrow stone-paved alleys and picturesque houses<br />
with partly tiled rooves.<br />
Ioulida is built on the site of the ancient city of Ioulida, where ruins of<br />
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above the current settlement, on the west tip of Agios Nikolaos bay. The<br />
famous Kouros of Kea was found here, and is now exhibited in the<br />
Archaeological Museum of Athens.<br />
South of Korissia, a country road leads to the wonderful beach of Xyla<br />
with its beautiful sand and clear waters, while Gialiskari, a small golden<br />
beach with blue waters, is located to the north. North also is the<br />
picturesque village of Vourkari with its harbour, where one can find plenty<br />
of places for fresh fish and Kea's famous spaghetti with lobster. After<br />
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houses and parts of the citadel walls are preserved. Interesting finds<br />
covering a period from the Neolithic Age to the end of the ancient world<br />
are exhibited at the Archaeological Museum, among which the marble<br />
torso of a man wearing a long robe stands out. Ioulida features<br />
numerous Byzantine churches: Panagia Gamila, Panagia Revmatiani,<br />
Evangelismos, Dimotikia, Agios Spyridon, Panagia Chrysospiliotissa<br />
which is built in a cave, while the 26 mountain-top mills - the largest<br />
group of windmills in the <strong>Cyclades</strong> – complement the original character<br />
of the village. The sights of Ioulida include the neoclassical Town Hall,<br />
built in 1902. Ioulida has many charming taverns, cafes, bars and<br />
lodgings to offer visitors.<br />
Sights and attractions<br />
Korissia, an important tourism centre on the island, is the port of Ioulida,<br />
in the bay of Agios Nikolaos. The ancient city of Korissos is located<br />
Vourkari is the small peninsula of Agia Irini, where one of the most<br />
important prehistoric settlements in the Aegean is located. Parts of the<br />
walls, the gate to the settlement, the base of a tower, a temple and<br />
wonderful Cycladic figurines were found here. Outstanding are the Korai,<br />
which are exhibited at the Archaeological Museum of Ioulida. The<br />
historical strait of Lambros Katsonis is located on the peninsula, together<br />
with the lighthouse of Agios Nikolaos, the first lighthouse in the <strong>Cyclades</strong><br />
(1831) and the second in Greece, built on the ruins of a temple dedicated
to Poseidon.<br />
From Agia Irini, a country road leads north to the Kefala peninsula,<br />
where traces of the oldest settlement of the island evidence that Kea<br />
was inhabited during the Neolithic Age (3300-3200 BC). In the northeast<br />
part of the island, on the hill of Kastri, on top of a rock, lies the imposing<br />
monastery of Panagia Kastriani (18th century), featuring an icon of<br />
Panagia (Virgin), guardian of the island.<br />
From Ioulida, the road to the south leads to the historic monastery of<br />
Agia Marina, built around a threestorey<br />
tower from the Hellenistic<br />
Period, ending at the small touristic<br />
settlement of Pisses (ancient Piessa),<br />
with its wonderful beach and a<br />
campsite. Koundouros, a touristic<br />
village with attractive beaches is<br />
located to the south.<br />
Attractions include the monastery of Agios Panteleimon from the 16th<br />
century, at the centre of the island, and the synthronon of Agios<br />
Timotheos with its wonderful 13th century icons.<br />
Feasts and flavours<br />
The people of Tzia keep traditions alive and know all about the true<br />
meaning of hospitability and festivities. The patron saint of Kea is Agios<br />
Charalambos, celebrated on 10 February in glory and religious<br />
K e a<br />
reverence. The ancient rites are revived on 1 July, on the celebration of<br />
Agii Anargyri in Vourkari. The feast of Agia Marina takes place in Korissia<br />
on 17 July; Panagia Kastriani is celebrated on 15 August, and the<br />
festivities for Ai Symios are organised on 1 September. During the<br />
carnival, the King of the Carnival parade takes place in Ioulida, followed<br />
by a frenzy of festivities.<br />
The Festival of Fairy Tales, a unique cultural event in Greece, is<br />
organised by the Legend and Fairy Tale Study and Dissemination<br />
Centre every summer around the July full moon and carries visitors<br />
away with the magic of legends, myths and fairy tales. The Simonidia<br />
sports events are organised in August.<br />
The food is wonderful<br />
The speciality of the island is paspalas (pieces of pork cooked with<br />
tomatoes and eggs), tsigara (pork with fat), loza (salted pork), and<br />
melitzanoryza (aubergines with rice). Local sausages are also part of<br />
the traditional table, as is the grilled herring, accompanied by cool<br />
retsina wine. Don't miss the chance to try rooster cooked in wine,<br />
accompanied by the local ”mavroudi” red wine.<br />
According to the legend, Aristaeus introduced apiary in Kea and local<br />
pure thyme honey and pasteli have been the traditional treats to visitors<br />
since ancient times.<br />
117
km) The route from the church of Agios Konstantinos, following the stonepaved<br />
path on the traces of the ancient road that linked Ioulida and<br />
Korissia, ends at the Mylopotamos valley, and enters the area of Flea, by<br />
the river lined with cypress trees. Eleven water mills are built along the<br />
stream.<br />
Routes for all<br />
In the central and eastern areas of Kea (included in Í atura 2000) lies the<br />
largest oak forest of the <strong>Cyclades</strong>, while rare plants and species<br />
endemic to the <strong>Cyclades</strong>, shrubs and hundreds of colourful wild flowers<br />
cover the slopes of hills, the banks of waterways, gorges, even the<br />
rocks. Signs have been placed on all the following routes:<br />
1 Ioulida – Leon – Dosonari – Diaselli - Otzias (5.1km route) 1.5km<br />
northeast of Ioulida lies the famous Lion of Kea, or Liontas, an imposing<br />
ancient sculpture dating to 600 BC. Through areas of oak and almond<br />
trees, the route ends at the bay of Otzias, a beautiful village for<br />
swimming and good food.<br />
2 Ioulida - Agios Konstantinos – Mylopotamos - Flea- Korissia (3.1<br />
3<br />
4<br />
5<br />
Ioulida – Mesaria - Profitis Ilias – Astra – Ellinika - Agios Symeon -<br />
Karthea (11.8km). A route inland which linked ancient Ioulida with<br />
ancient Karthea. The view from Profitis Ilias, the highest spot on the island<br />
(568m), is breathtaking. The route ends at Karthea, on the southeast side<br />
of the island, the most important of the four cities of ancient Kea,<br />
established in ancient years and inhabited until the Early Byzantine<br />
period. Time stops here, since access to Karthea is possible through the<br />
ancient road that connected the city to the other cities of the island. The<br />
most important monuments are the temple of Apollo, the temple of Athena<br />
(5th-6th century BC), the citadel walls, and the 1st century BC theatre.<br />
Monastery of Episkopi – Sotira – Perameria - Tria Maderika -<br />
Sykamia (4.4km). A route through one of Kea's oak forests – one of the<br />
few oak forests left in the Aegean. After Tria Maderika the landscape<br />
changes, becoming rocky, and the route continues on the steep hill which<br />
ends at the beautiful beach of Sykamia.<br />
Katomeria - Kalodoukas spring - Vathypotamos spring (3km). A route<br />
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6<br />
7<br />
of exceptional natural beauty that crosses the two springs of ancient<br />
Karthea.<br />
Stavroudaki - Vathypotamos spring - Karthea (2.3km). Walking the<br />
ancient path by the waters of Vathypotamos, admire the flora and fauna<br />
of Kea. Once at the remote and imposing location of Mikres Poles,<br />
Panagia Polo is ideal for a rest and a swim in the crystal waters, before<br />
moving on to exploring the ancient city.<br />
Chavouna - Agios Taxiarchis – Pigadak i- Kaliskia - Karthea<br />
(1.7km). A stone-built path with a view to the sea. In Pigadaki there are<br />
traces of a farmhouse from the Classical Period, featuring a court and<br />
towers.<br />
K e a<br />
ONLY IN KEA<br />
The view from Profitis Ilias, the highest spot on the island (568m), is<br />
breathtaking.<br />
Try paspalas, the local delicacy of pork cooked with tomatoes and eggs.<br />
Thanks to its wonderful waters, fascinating sea bed and large fish<br />
population, fans of diving will leave the island with hundreds of<br />
unforgettable experiences.<br />
The Festival of Fairy Tales is organised in early summer, where story<br />
tellers from all over the world share the local legends of their place whilst<br />
walking the paths.<br />
8<br />
Ellinika or Agios Symeon – Vryses - Agios Filippos (4.3km). Part of<br />
an ancient observation tower observatory is preserved in Ellinika, while<br />
In Vryses, stone-built irrigation structures can be seen. The route ends<br />
at the immaculate beach of Agios Filippos.<br />
Let's go to to Kythnos…<br />
Only a stone's throw away!!!<br />
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www.kythnos.gr<br />
CHAT ROOM<br />
“Kythnos“<br />
You're going to Kythnos?! Don't tell me it's the only island you haven't visited<br />
in <strong>Cyclades</strong>!<br />
Each island is a world of its own. Other islands have nothing that Kythnos<br />
has to be jealous of.<br />
Are you sure?<br />
It's beautiful, quiet, clean and civilised. It has so many welcome surprises.<br />
Get recommendations<br />
Kythnos is like a modest beauty. It is not<br />
famous, no pictures of Kythnos are seen on<br />
the cover of magazines. However it is truly<br />
beautiful and genuine, and very “well<br />
behaved” too. It is approachable, friendly,<br />
joyful and hospitable. A holiday destination<br />
out of the ordinary, this is one of its greatest<br />
virtues.<br />
How to get there<br />
Kythnos is connected by sea with Piraeus,<br />
Lavrio and Syros.<br />
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K Y T H N O S<br />
Kythnos, or Thermia, with its warm baths, belongs to the West<br />
<strong>Cyclades</strong> group of islands, and is located between Kea and Serifos.<br />
It covers an area of 92 square kilometres and has 1,700 permanent<br />
residents. It is frequently hit by strong winds, but the sun shines<br />
almost all year round. With its beautiful Cycladic landscape,<br />
Venetian castles and old churches, charming beaches and hot<br />
springs, Kythnos makes an ideal destination for those who seek<br />
relaxation, good health, but also an acquaintance with the history<br />
and culture of the place.<br />
In Kythos, the warmth and hospitability of the residents are the<br />
epitome of “welcome”.<br />
According to tradition, the island was named after Cythnus, leader<br />
of the Dryopes, who settled in the island from Euboea.<br />
The northwest part of Kythnos, from the islet of Agios Loukas to the<br />
Kefalos cave, is of particular natural interest, and has been<br />
included in the Natura 2000 network.<br />
Culture, Nature and People, all in one<br />
The capital or chora of the island is Kythnos, or Mesaria, a<br />
traditional village built on the slope of a hill. In Chora, one can<br />
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Beaches and sights<br />
At a distance of 7km southwest of Chora lies Merichas, the port of the<br />
island, a village full of life all day long, with tourism infrastructure and a<br />
wonderful beach.<br />
South of Merichas, the road leads inland, to the traditional settlement of<br />
Dryopida (Chorio or Syllaka). Here one can wander around Piatsa and<br />
the neighbourhood of Galatas, and visit the picturesque churches of<br />
wander around the cobbled streets, picturesque beneath arches next<br />
to stone-built, white-washed houses, and visit the beautiful churches:<br />
Agia Triada, the single-aisle domed basilica - the oldest church on the<br />
island -, Sotira, Agios Ioannis with its 16th century carved screen, the<br />
historic church of Agios Savas with the epigraph from 1613, which<br />
operated as an Orthodox and a Catholic church during the Venetian<br />
occupation.<br />
Visitors should definitely see the Archaeological Collection of Kythnos<br />
in Chora, including interesting finds from the excavation on the island.<br />
At a distance of 800 metres from Chora and on a hill lies the monastery<br />
of Panagia Nikous, a wondeful three-aisle domed basilica.<br />
A point of special interest is located near Chora: the wind and solar<br />
park, intended to supply the entire island.<br />
Agios Panteleimon, Agii Apostoli and Agios Minas which features a<br />
wonderful carved screen, a throne – a fine sample of folk art - and the<br />
epitaph.<br />
The church of Ai Giorgis accommodates the Byzantine Museum,<br />
exhibiting icons, old books and holy vessels. Visit the Folk Museum to<br />
see various traditional items.<br />
In Dryopida, and occasionally in other settlements of Kythnos, the<br />
houses are tile-roofed, which is unusual in the <strong>Cyclades</strong>, thus adding<br />
another touch to the colourful mosaic of the island.<br />
The settlement has a tradition of pottery and has a pottery workshop<br />
where fine ceramics are available.<br />
South of Dryopida, on the east coast, lies the settlement of Kanala,<br />
above the sandy beach Megali Ammos.<br />
Built on a rock near the settlement lies the monastery of Panagia Kanala,<br />
guardian saint of the island, which features the fine icon of the Virgin, a<br />
122
K y t h n o s<br />
work by Antonis Skordilis, an icon painter from Crete who lived in the<br />
17th century.<br />
Agios Dimitrios, a long beautiful beach that extends in front of the<br />
settlement having the same name is located at the far south of the<br />
island.<br />
On the north coast of Kythnos, 4.5km from Chora, lies the traditional<br />
settlement of Loutra, where two springs, one hot and one warm, are<br />
ideal for arthritis and other medical conditions. A diving centre operates<br />
in Loutra, offering unique opportunities for diving experiences.<br />
Feasts and flavours<br />
The traditional year-round festivities add a special touch to the<br />
character of the island. The most famous ones are Agia Triada in June<br />
in Chora, Agii Apostoli on 29 June in Dryopida, Panagia Kanala and<br />
Panagia Nikous on 15 August.<br />
"Kythnia", a host of music and dancing events and art exhibitions,<br />
takes place in Chora every summer, from 1 to 10 August.<br />
The traditional delicacies of Kythnos include local sausages, the<br />
trimma and kopanisti cheese products, honey, and the tasty barley<br />
bread rolls.<br />
The most popular local recipes include savor (seasoned fish), sfougata<br />
cheese croquettes, the pitaro cheesepie, syglina (salted pork), and<br />
1<br />
2<br />
kolopia (pies with rice, wild greens, spinach and various herbs). Look<br />
for local macaroons if in Loutra: definitely one of the best delicacies to<br />
take back home!<br />
Routes for all<br />
Hiking in Kythnos is a chance to relax in a still virgin and diverse natural<br />
environment, where chapels, old bridges, dry walls, springs and many<br />
endemic plants compose a rich picture.<br />
Chora - Dryopida. Beautiful route inland.<br />
Dryopida - Lefkes. Southeast of Dryopida is the small settlement of<br />
123
124<br />
Lefkes with its sandy and pebbly beach offering welcome shade. An old<br />
mine is located near the settlement (in Kythnos there are many iron and<br />
manganese mines).<br />
3 Merichas - Vryokastro. North of Merichas, near the beach of Episkopi<br />
in the area of Vryokastro, where the ancient city of Kythnos stood,<br />
inhabited from the 10th century BC until the 7th century AD and<br />
flourishing during the Classical and Roman periods. The area is full of<br />
4<br />
ruins of walls, temple foundations and altars.<br />
Merichas - Kolona. Northwest of Merichas, at Kolona, a narrow strip of<br />
sand links the land with the isle of Agios Loukas, thus forming a natural<br />
refuge for boats, and an impressive two-sided beach! The church of<br />
Agios Loukas is built on the island bearing the same name.
K y t h n o s<br />
5 Loutra - Kastro. The route ends at Vryokastro, the ancient capital of<br />
Kythnos, located at the northern tip of the island. Parts of the Venetian<br />
castle walls are preserved, as well as ruins of houses and of two<br />
churches. The city was destroyed in the 16th century by the Turks.<br />
Panagia Kalolivadiotissa, and the enchanting Fykiada.<br />
Take daily trips to remote beaches or to the Piperi islet which has been<br />
listed as a highly-valued landscape.<br />
6<br />
7<br />
Loutra - Agia Irini. A short route with a great view, that leads to the<br />
small picturesque settlement of Agia Irini which features the<br />
'Kithniakon' monument and a beautiful beach.<br />
Dryopida - Katafyki cave. Near Dryopida, at Fires, is the Katafyki<br />
cave with stalactites and stalagmites. in the main room of the cave,<br />
actually the bed of an underground river, locals used to host the Easter<br />
celebrations.<br />
ONLY IN KYTHNOS<br />
The open-air settlement from the Mesolithic Age found at Maroulas –<br />
the only open-air settlement from that age found in Greece – indicates<br />
that Kythnos has been inhabited since 9000 BC, also suggesting that<br />
this may have been the oldest settlement of people in the <strong>Cyclades</strong>.<br />
Tips and trips<br />
Kythnos is full of coves, bays and beaches with crystal clear waters:<br />
Episkopi, Apokrousi – a sandy beach with shade -, the long Flambouria<br />
beach dominated by the church of Panagia Flambouriani, Agios Sostis<br />
- a beautiful beach at the far north of the island with a chapel of the<br />
same name -, Naousa with a view to the church on the rock, Kouri and<br />
Zongaki which are linked with steps, Kalo Livadi with the chapel of<br />
Let's go to to Serifos…<br />
Only a stone's throw away!!!<br />
125
www.serifos.gr<br />
CHAT ROOM<br />
“Serifos”<br />
Climbing in the <strong>Cyclades</strong>! That's fantastic.<br />
Yes, you can go climbing in Serifos. And you can also surf, dive, fish,<br />
and everything.<br />
So you're in for Serifos? Now you've got me thinking.<br />
Well, discover the <strong>Cyclades</strong> by island hopping, isn't that what they say?!<br />
Serifos then, and we'll have enjoyed the essence of the <strong>Cyclades</strong>.<br />
Hey, its worth going to Serifos.<br />
Get recommendations<br />
Serifos is very attractive exactly because it<br />
doesn't try to be so. It remains a land<br />
untouched by time and tourism. It welcomes<br />
its visitors without worry or guile, because<br />
everybody that chooses Serifos likes it the<br />
way it is and always has been. Beautiful,<br />
charming, shining, simple, full of joy,<br />
liveliness, tastes and colours.<br />
How to get there<br />
Serifos is connected to Piraeus by ferry and<br />
fast boats, as well as to most other islands of<br />
the <strong>Cyclades</strong>.<br />
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S E R I F O S<br />
In the centre of the Western <strong>Cyclades</strong>, between Kythnos and Sifnos,<br />
where the blue of the Aegean blends into the red of the rocks and the<br />
white of the houses, Serifos makes time stop for a while and invites<br />
visitors to get to know its landscapes and its people, to seek calm and<br />
relaxation on its golden beaches.<br />
Serifos maintains its original island colour intact, as it has managed to<br />
stay away from the frenetic tourist development of other islands in the<br />
Aegean.<br />
Legend links Serifos to Perseus, son of Zeus and Danae, who lived<br />
and became a man on the island, as well as to Odysseus, who on his<br />
return to Ithaca stopped at Serifos and was kept prisoner by the<br />
cyclops Polyphemus in his horrific cave. The locals still show to<br />
visitors the rock outside Koutalas cove that Odysseus threw at<br />
Polyphemus when Odysseus escaped and left the island, as well as<br />
the ruins of the great Cyclopean Walls.<br />
An acquaintance that changes your<br />
priorities<br />
Serifos, covering a surface area of 75 square kilometres, has been<br />
known since antiquity for its mineral wealth: lead, silver, and other<br />
rare minerals. The oldest settlement of the island dates back to the<br />
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2nd millennium BC, when Serifos was first settled by Minoans and then<br />
by Mycaenaeans, who started exploiting its subsoil.<br />
Its capital is beautiful Serifos, built panoramically on the top of a steep<br />
rock crowned by the Venetian castle which gazes over the blue of the<br />
Aegean.<br />
The settlement includes two neighbourhoods: Epano Chora and Kato<br />
Chora. Here traditional Cycladic architecture shines: snow white,<br />
picturesque houses with small,colourful doors and windows, narrow,<br />
cobblestone alleys resembling white labyrinths invite visitors to lose<br />
themselves in their beauty, old windmills that catch the eye and serve as<br />
a reminder of the hard work of another age.<br />
Climbing to the castle at the top of the hill, we come across its two<br />
entrances, parts of the walls of houses (with Venetian emblems) that<br />
formed the outside ring of defence and ruins of the ancient acropolis.<br />
The view from the top of the castle, where the church of Agios Andreas<br />
stands, is impressive and the view of the sunset from here is among the<br />
most beautiful in the Aegean!<br />
Below Agios Konstantinos, built in the rocks, stands the church of Agios<br />
Ioannis Theologos and at the edge of the cliff stands the church of Christ<br />
with the chapel of Agia Anna. Below the castle we find Pano Piatsa, the<br />
old commercial centre built in 1907.<br />
Chora is also adorned with the churches of Agios Athanasios from the<br />
19th century (cathedral), with a wooden carved screen and wonderful<br />
icons, Agios Eleftherios and Evangelismos.<br />
At the Archaeological Museum, housed in the neoclassical building of the<br />
Town Hall (1904), you can admire a very interesting collection of exhibits<br />
from Hellenistic and Roman times, and in the Folk Museum you will see<br />
old pictures, old household items, as well as samples of the island's<br />
mineral wealth.<br />
Cultural and art events are held in the summer at the small, open air<br />
theatre of the Folk Museum.<br />
Livadi, the main port, and 5km from the capital, is a picturesque<br />
settlement, spread out and well protected from northerly winds, where<br />
you will have the opportunity to swim at a wonderful, sandy beach.<br />
Routes for all<br />
You cannot really get to know Serifos if you don't follow its paths, walking<br />
on the rough and rocky terrain, which hides, however, green meadows,<br />
and leads to many coves and beaches, offering magical images.<br />
Serifos is a natural balcony over the Aegean with a view to all of the<br />
surrounding islands - Kythnos, Syros, Paros, Sifnos, Kimolos, Milos.<br />
1 Chora - Livadera - Megalo Chorio - Megalo Livadi.<br />
A path which traverses central and southern Serfios, a wonderful area<br />
128
2<br />
that forms part of the Natura 2000 network, and extends from the<br />
southern coastline to the peak of Troulos at the centre of the island, the<br />
highest point of Serifos (582 m.).<br />
The path ends at the coastal settlement of Megalo Livadi, an old port<br />
from where mineral ore was transported. Here you will see the elegant<br />
neoclassical building that housed the offices and the warehouses of the<br />
mining company and the monument of the miners who lost their life in<br />
1916 in a revolt over working conditions. Near Megalo Livadi, on the<br />
slope of the mountain, are mines where ore was mined during the 1880-<br />
1912 period. The sites of the area include the churches of Agios<br />
Nikolaos, Agia Triada (in Megalo Chorio), and Agios Ioannis Prodromos<br />
(at the Avessalos cove). The beach in Megalo Livadi is ideal for<br />
swimming and therapeutic baths.<br />
Megalo Chorio - Koutalas. At Koutalas cove you will find a small<br />
seaside settlement with a wonderful beach just at the feet of the<br />
imposing mountain with its mines.<br />
Here, prepare yourselves for an exciting journey through time,<br />
observing the old tracks on cobblestone streets and ramps from where<br />
the wagons transported the ore from the slopes of the surrounding hills<br />
to the iron loading ladder which is supported on a pillar in the sea.<br />
S e r i f o s<br />
3 Koutalas - Aspropyrgos - Psaropyrgos - Kastro Grias.<br />
To the northwest of Koutalas cove are the ruins of the circular marble<br />
Aspropyrgos and on the Kiklopas hill stand the ruins of stone-built<br />
Psaropyrgos, both renowned Hellenistic monuments, whilst on a hill<br />
above Koutalas, at Kastro Grias, stand the ruins of a wall and<br />
residences.<br />
4 Cyclops Cave. Southwest of Serifos is the impressive Cyclops cave or<br />
Koutalas, which in ancient times was a place of worship. The first<br />
chamber of the cave is adorned with stalactites and columns, and the<br />
second chamber is covered along almost its entire length by a small lake.<br />
In the next chamber there is an altar surrounded by various utensils,<br />
traces of fire and bones, covered in stalactite material. The cave is<br />
accessible by car from the road to Megalo Livadi, by turning left towards<br />
the Evangelistria Monastery and next on foot, walking for 10 minutes.<br />
5 Chora - Panagia. The road to the north of Chora after 4 Km. leads to the<br />
settlement of Panagia, where the thousand year-old church of Panagia<br />
stands, the oldest church on the island, with spectacular icons dating<br />
back to the 13th century. Other churches in the area include Agios<br />
Stefanas and Panagia Skopiani.<br />
129
6 Panagia - Sikamia. An earth road from Panagia leads to the northern<br />
coast of the island, to one of the most beautiful beaches of Serifos,<br />
Sikamia.<br />
7 Panagia - Pyrgos - Galani - Taxiarches Monastery - Kentarchos.<br />
An asphalt road leads from Panagia to the picturesque settlements of<br />
Pyrgos, Galani and Kentarchos in the northeast. After Galani you will<br />
see the imposing Taxiarches Monastery, which from a distance looks<br />
like a castle. The monastery was built in 1572 and has a high wall and<br />
arrow slits to protect it against pirate attacks.<br />
In its Catholic church, admire the marble and wooden carved, gold<br />
plated screen, the famous icons of Emmanouil Skordilis and the<br />
wooden, carved throne. In the centre of the church floor there is a<br />
marble plaque with a two-headed eagle on it dating back to 1659.<br />
The Taxiarches Monastery is the most important monument of the<br />
island. You can visit it, and pilgrims can stay in renovated cells.<br />
Feasts and flavours<br />
The inhabitants of Serifos - currently over 1,200 - are polite and warm<br />
hearted, and preserve the Cycladic tradition of hospitality and festivities.<br />
The backbone of the religious and social life of the island is made up<br />
local festivals, where the hosting celebrators will willingly serve you<br />
tasty treats on handmade, ceramic plates accompanied by the island<br />
music of local instruments. Try boiled kid meat with pasta, mashed fava<br />
beans - and the famous wine of Serifos.<br />
Some of the celebrations of Serifos include those of Agia Triada, on the<br />
day of the Holy Spirit in Mavra Voladia, Christos Sotiras on 6 August 6th,<br />
in Pyrgos, Panagia in Ramos and Skopous on 15 August, Taxiarches on 8<br />
November in Monastiri. In Serifos you will find the Cyclops throne.<br />
Serifos is renowned for its wonderful pork products (louza, siglina,<br />
sausages) and dairy products (myzithra of charani, sour myzithra,<br />
piperati), along with capers and sundried tomatoes which are essential in<br />
its cooked foods and salads. The favourite dishes on the island are<br />
revithada, marathotiganites, and sundried octopus. Also search out the<br />
local thyme honey, it is exceptional!<br />
Sea and action<br />
The beaches of Serifos, besides the ideal swimming opportunities they<br />
offer, are also favourite places for surfers.<br />
The nearby islets of Serifopoula, Vous and Mikronisi, which have been<br />
declared areas of natural beauty and are ideal for fishing, are also<br />
suitable for sea trips. The islet of Piperi to the north of Serifos is ideal for<br />
climbing fans.<br />
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S e r i f o s<br />
ONLY IN SERIFOS<br />
In Serifos you can see the Cyclops Throne - the locals will be delighted<br />
to tell you where to find it.<br />
Easter in Serifos is a unique island experience for visitors and is<br />
celebrated in a very special way. Also, an exciting festival is held on 14<br />
November, the day of Agios Filippos, where the residents of the island<br />
slaughter pigs and open their new wine.<br />
Let's go to Sifnos...<br />
Only a stone's throw away!!!<br />
131
www.sifnos.gr<br />
CHAT ROOM<br />
“Sifnos”<br />
He had a wonderful time in Sifnos. He's fallen in love with the island.<br />
He always liked the <strong>Cyclades</strong> and Sifnos really is special.<br />
This time, it's serious! He's looking for a house and says he wants to live there,<br />
even permanently.<br />
That would be nice. I would have done the same.<br />
But, what sets Sifnos apart, besides it Cycladic beauty?<br />
What makes someone you fall in love with special?!<br />
Get recommendations<br />
“Sifnos is, in a very special way, absolutely<br />
compatible with the <strong>Cyclades</strong> and at the<br />
same time entirely different. Every<br />
description makes it sound attractive;<br />
however, only after the first visit does it<br />
actually become a favourite destination. If<br />
you have not visited, then perhaps you<br />
should, to give as much time as you can to a<br />
thrilling, once in a lifetime, experience.”<br />
How to get there<br />
There are daily ferry and fast boat<br />
connections between Sifnos and Piraeus,<br />
other islands of the <strong>Cyclades</strong>, as well as<br />
Crete.<br />
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S I F N O S<br />
Sifnos belongs to the West <strong>Cyclades</strong> and is situated in the middle of<br />
the triangle formed by Serifos, Kimolos and Antiparos. Its pristine<br />
white settlements, blending superbly with the natural environment, its<br />
sandy beaches, picturesque churches and monasteries, its Venetian<br />
castle and ancient towers, and the wise cultivation of the land, its<br />
ceramics, hospitality and local feasts make up a superb, exciting and<br />
alluring setting for every traveller.<br />
The part of the island from Profitis Ilias to the west coast – a verdant<br />
area, even during the summer, with many springs – has been<br />
included in the European Natura 2000 network as many hawks nest<br />
or stopover in this area.<br />
During the summer months, the night life in Sifnos is concentrated in<br />
Apollonia and Kamares, but recreation centres and clubs are found in<br />
almost every settlement.<br />
Sifnos<br />
Sifnos has been inhabited since the late 5th millennium B.C. In the<br />
3rd millennium mining activities began on the island and the early<br />
Cycladic civilisation blossomed. In the 12th century B.C. Ionians<br />
from Attica settled on the island, lead by Sifnos, who gave his name<br />
to the island, and founded the “asty” (township), today's Kastro.<br />
From the 8th to the 5th century B.C., Sifnos experienced a great<br />
financial boom, due to its mineral resources, and minted its own<br />
currency.<br />
The capital of Sifnos is Apollonia, a beautiful settlement with<br />
cobblestone streets, whitewashed cuboid houses and picturesque<br />
churches with elaborate bell towers and white or blue domes, that<br />
133
shimmer under the “apollonian” light of the Aegean. Apollonia forms<br />
almost a single complex with six other traditional settlements – a<br />
residential curiosity unique to Sifnos – as a pedestrian way extends from<br />
Artemonas to Katevati, after passing through Ano Petali and Apollonia,<br />
while the settlements of Agios Loukas, Exambela and Kato Petali are<br />
also connected by a cobblestone road.<br />
Every step another discovery<br />
Walking is the ideal way for the visitor to get to know the villages of<br />
Sifnos and its landscape, with the characteristic “themonies” – small<br />
clusters of cottages scattered all over the island – and the terraces,<br />
interspersed with olive groves and cedar and oak forests. At the same<br />
time, walking will reveal to the visitor an age-old cultural wealth: from the<br />
prehistoric citadels and the ancient towers (at least 55 beacon towers<br />
dating from the 6th to the 3rd century B.C. have been recorded in Sifnos)<br />
to the marvellous modern day art of ceramics.<br />
Routes for all<br />
1 Katavati – Apollonia - Artemonas. Starting from Katavati with the<br />
church of Panagia Angeloktisti, visitors will admire the cobblestone road<br />
connecting the island's main settlements. In Apollonia, they will savour<br />
traditional delicacies, visit the Folk Museum and see churches with<br />
outstanding icons and ornate screens: Panagia Ouranofora or<br />
Geraniofora, Agios Spyridon (cathedral), the former Catholic monastery<br />
of Agios Artemios (1629), the churches of Agios Athanassios,<br />
Metamorphosi tou Sotiros, Timios Stavros.<br />
Artemonas is the gem of Sifnos, with a panoramic view, neoclassic<br />
mansions, traditional restaurants and patisseries, gardens, flowered<br />
courtyards and old windmills. The sights in Artemonos include the<br />
churches of Panagia tis Koghis and Panagia tis Ammou, with the famous<br />
icon of the Virgin “Panagia tis Monachis”.<br />
134
S i f n o s<br />
2<br />
Artemonas - Panagia Poulati - Kastro. A 30 minute route passing<br />
through Panagia Poulati with a wonderful view and reaching perhaps<br />
the most beautiful place on the island: the Kastro (Castle), built on a<br />
steep rock on the eastern coast. The settlement is in fact an outdoor<br />
museum: it has been inhabited from prehistoric times until today and<br />
(together with the castles of Antiparos and Folegandros) is one of the<br />
most important settlements, in terms of medieval architecture,<br />
exhibiting all the characteristics of a typical Venetian fortress. Arches,<br />
arrow slits, two-storey and three-storey mansions, Venetian coats of<br />
arms and epigraphs, and takes us back to other eras. The visitor can<br />
admire the small, picturesque church of Epta Martyron, the church of<br />
Panagia Eleoussa (1653), Kastro's cathedral, and the church of<br />
Panagia tis Koimiseos (1593), with the ancient sacrificial altar in place of<br />
the High Altar. The Archaeological Museum houses finds dating from the<br />
3<br />
prehistoric period to Byzantine times.<br />
Apollonia - Exambela. The monastery of Vryssi or Kyra-Vryssiani, with<br />
its carved screen and Cretan School icons, which also houses the<br />
Museum of Ecclesiastic Art and Tradition, with particularly interesting<br />
exhibits, is situated in Exambela.<br />
4<br />
Agios Minas - Agios Sostis - Metallia. From the settlement of Agios<br />
Minas in northern Sifnos, a cobblestone path leads to Agios Sostis and<br />
the old gold mines. The area is ideal for swimming if you like rocks and<br />
deep water.<br />
5<br />
Herronisos - Agios Georgios. In Herronisos, a lovely fishing village<br />
with a wonderful sandy beach at the north end of the island, one can find<br />
135
8<br />
Katavati - Agios Andreas citadel. A route of exceptional archaeological<br />
and cultural interest to the hill of Agios Andreas, where the ruins of one of<br />
the four prehistoric citadels of the island, with impressive fortifications<br />
dating to the Mycenaean period, lie.<br />
6<br />
some of the oldest ceramics workshops on the island, where the visitor<br />
can admire the ancient art of the wheel and witness how clay becomes a<br />
work of art.<br />
The route ends at the northern-most point of the island, at the very edge<br />
of the cliff, at the chapel of Agios Georgios.<br />
Faros - Chrysopigi. From Faros, a quiet fishing village on the<br />
southeast coast, which is considered the safest port on the island, a<br />
coastal path leads to the imposing monastery of Panagia tis Chrysopigis<br />
(1650), the patron of the island, built on a rock in the sea. The gorgeous<br />
screen of the church and the artful icons are imposing.<br />
9 Katavati - Profitis Ilias monastery. A route with a wonderful view and<br />
natural beauty to the highest point of the island (680m), where the<br />
monastery of Profitis Ilias of the 8th century is situated. The church has a<br />
marble screen and a marble baptistery and is the most important<br />
Byzantine monument in Sifnos.<br />
10 Katavati - Agios Ioannis Moungos Monastery - Agios Eleftherios –<br />
Kamares - Toso Nero. In the monastery of Agios Ioannis you will see the<br />
Venetian coat of arms on the lintel, the gilded carved screen and the 15th<br />
century icon of Agios Ioannis.<br />
Kamares, with one of the most beautiful beaches on the island, is the port<br />
of Sifnos. The settlement is adorned with the churches of Agia Marina and<br />
Agios Georgios, as well as the monastery of Panagia “Toso Nero” to the<br />
south. In Kamares windsurfing equipment can be rented.<br />
7 Platys Gialos - Monastery of Panagia “to Vouno”. From Platys<br />
Gialos, the busiest beach on the island and one of the largest beach in<br />
the <strong>Cyclades</strong>, we climb up to the Monastery of Panagia, “to Vouno”, with<br />
the icon of Panagia Macherousa (1813).<br />
11 Katavati - Mavro Chorio - Vathy. A 3-hour route leading to Vathy, a<br />
picturesque village on the southwest coast of the island, in an enclosed<br />
cove with a wonderful beach and crystal waters.<br />
Here, the visitor will discover some of the oldest pottery workshops in<br />
Sifnos.<br />
136
S i f n o s<br />
Feasts and flavours<br />
You can experience a genuine island feast at the festival of one of the<br />
numerous – as many as the days in a year! – chapels and monasteries<br />
on the island. There you will try tasty dishes at a communal supper<br />
reminiscent of the ancient “estiassi” and “agapes” (loves) of the Early<br />
Christian Period, such as the traditional “revithada” (chick pea soup),<br />
meat or cod with potatoes, you will become high on the local “serifiotiko”<br />
wine and you will let the island music and sounds of the violin sweep you<br />
into dancing. The epicentre of the island's cycle of celebrations is the<br />
feast of the Panagia tis Chrysopigis, which is held 40 days after Easter<br />
(Ascension Day).<br />
The cycle of celebrations in Sifnos also includes other local customs:<br />
the carols of Sifnos (ad lib ditties about people and situations), the<br />
“Lolopanigyro” (Crazy Feast) on the 2nd of February (on the Day of the<br />
Presentation of Christ at the Temple or “”Ipapanti) at Panagia i<br />
Ouranofora and the dance of Kyr-Vorias on the Sunday of “Tyrini” week<br />
(Cheese Week, the second week of the “Apokries” or Carnival).<br />
Sifnos, the birthplace of many famous chefs such as Tselementes and<br />
Markou, offers a wide selection of very tasty dishes, such as the<br />
revithokeftedes (chick pea croquettes), ambelofassoula (string beans)<br />
with skordalia (garlic paste), kaparosalata (caper salad), xynomyzithra.<br />
The revithada on Sundays under the “skepastaria” (porch) is an old<br />
tradition for Sifnos families. And every Holy Saturday the formal Easter<br />
dish, the “mastelo”, lamb baked in the oven on vine twigs with local red<br />
wine and dill, is prepared. No festive table is without the fantastic<br />
melopita (cake made of honey and mizithra cheese) and the wonderful<br />
bourekia, pastries with almonds, honey and sesame.<br />
ONLY IN SIFNOS<br />
The traditional wedding, with its lengthy ritual, two-day celebrations and<br />
hundreds of sponteneous wishes.<br />
The castle is one of the most important medieval settlements, and bears<br />
all the characteristics of a typical Venetian fortress. Is it in fact an open-air<br />
museum, inhabited since the prehistoric period until the present day!!!!<br />
Let's go to to Milos…<br />
Only a stone's throw away!!!<br />
137
www.milos.gr<br />
CHAT ROOM<br />
“Milos”<br />
Have you been to Milos? It's simply incredible!<br />
I have. It is enchanting. Have you visited the catacombs?! Have you seen snakes?!<br />
Insane!!! I went diving and they had to drag me out.<br />
Diving?! I must visit again. The colourful rocks are unbelievable.<br />
The entire island is out of this world! I am preparing a mailing list to form a group for<br />
a comeback.<br />
Count me in.<br />
Get recommendations<br />
Milos is one of a kind. It would be just a divine<br />
Cycladic island, with fabulous waters and<br />
beaches, even without three other unique<br />
characteristics: the volcano, the catacombs<br />
and its distinct fauna, including the wellknown<br />
species, the adder of Milos and the<br />
rock goat. For whatever reason you visit, you<br />
will enjoy it even more than you expected.<br />
How to get there<br />
Milos is connected by air with Athens airport<br />
Eleftherios Venizelos. Ferries and fast<br />
boats connect the island with Piraeus, the<br />
rest of the <strong>Cyclades</strong> and Crete (during the<br />
summer).<br />
138
M I L O S<br />
Milos, which became known worldwide for the famous statue of<br />
Venus, is situated on the south-western edge of the <strong>Cyclades</strong>. Milos'<br />
volcanic past, its impressive white, red, yellow or black rocks not<br />
found elsewhere in Greece, the azure sea which for centuries now<br />
sculpts its beaches, shores and caves, form a fascinating<br />
combination of sites of exceptional beauty: Kleftiko, Papafragkas<br />
cave, Sarakiniko, Venetsianes. In addition, Milos is at the centre of<br />
world archaeological and religious interest due to its famous<br />
Catacombs and Fylakopi with its Kyra (Dame).<br />
Milos' stunning sea bottom is considered a paradise for diving<br />
aficionados. On the island there is a diving centre, a school for<br />
kayaking and wind-surfing centres, sea scooters, canoes and<br />
pedalos.<br />
For adventure lovers there are two climbing areas, one in Tourla tou<br />
Vaniou and another in Glaronissia.<br />
One of a kind<br />
Milos, which covers an area of 151 sq.km, is one of the most<br />
important centres comprising the volcanic arc of the South Aegean,<br />
with heavy volcanic activity which started 3.5 million years ago and<br />
continued until the prehistoric period, producing rare rocks and<br />
unique geological formations. The most notable are the two large<br />
139
and extinct volcanoes of Fyriplaka and Trachilas on the south part of the<br />
island, two impressive volcano craters in very good condition. Human<br />
presence in Milos dates back to the Neolithic period (7000 B.C.), and<br />
mining sites of the Neolithic inhabitants of the island were discovered in<br />
the localities of Nychia and Demenegaki. During the Bronze age (2800-<br />
1100 B.C.), Milos was an important centre of Cycladic civilisation,<br />
centred in Fylakopi, which also gave its name to an entire<br />
archaeological period.<br />
Fylakopi), a figurine of inestimable archaeological value, and in the Folk<br />
and Historical Museum observe the daily life of the locals from the 17th<br />
century onwards. The church of Panagia Korfiatissa is situated on the<br />
west side of the settlement. From its courtyard you will enjoy a matchless<br />
view and one of the most enchanting sunsets in the Aegean.<br />
Adamas is the port of Plaka, one of the safest ports in the Mediterranean,<br />
with lovely little houses and narrow alleys. The sights in Adamas include<br />
the church of Kimisi tis Theotokou, the catholic church of Agios Nikolas,<br />
the Mining Museum and the Ecclesiastical Museum, which is housed in<br />
the thousand year old church of Agia Triada. At a short distance from<br />
Adamas, the beach of Papikinou will give you the opportunity to enjoy<br />
swimming and sea sports.<br />
Apollonia or Pollonia, a lovely holiday resort with small taverns where you<br />
will find plenty of fresh fish and seafood, is situated on the northeast side<br />
of the island, and Zefyria or Paleopoli or Chora, the medieval capital of the<br />
island until 1767, when it was destroyed by earthquakes, is situated in the<br />
Sights and attractions<br />
The capital of the island, Plaka, situated at an altitude of 200 metres<br />
above the gulf of Milos, is one of the most picturesque settlements in the<br />
<strong>Cyclades</strong> with all-white houses and flowered balconies. In the<br />
Archaeological Museum admire archaeological finds dating from the<br />
Neolithic period, among them the famous “Kyra tis Fylakopis” (Dame of<br />
140
centre of east Milos. Its main sight is the church of Panagia i Portaitisa or<br />
Portiani of the 17th century, the old cathedral of the island.<br />
The old sulphur mines, in operation until 1960, are located to the east of<br />
Paleopoli. They are situated on the slopes of a gorge which ends at the<br />
beach of Thiafes – an imposing landscape with impressive, colourful<br />
rocks.<br />
The church of Panagia tou Kipou is situated in south Milos. It is the<br />
oldest church on the island, with a baptistery, and the historical<br />
monastery of Agios Ioannis Siderianos is situated on the west side of the<br />
island.<br />
Routes for all<br />
The best way to really get acquainted with the vast natural and cultural<br />
wealth of Milos is hiking on the island's paths.<br />
1<br />
2<br />
M i l o s<br />
Apollonia - Fylakopi. Fylakopi, one of the most important cities of the<br />
prehistoric period in the Aegean, with the ruins of the imposing cyclopean<br />
wall and the populous settlement, is situated near Apollonia.<br />
Adamas-Trypiti-Klima-Agia Paraskevi-Catacombs-Ancient<br />
Theatre-Mavro Tichos-Profitis Ilias-Tramythia From Adamas, the<br />
road leads to the lovely village of Trypiti, with the church of Panagia<br />
Faneromeni, the windmills and the astonishing view of the sea, and<br />
Klima, a picturesque fishing village with the famous “syrmata”, seaside<br />
buildings where the inhabitants berthed their boats to protect them from<br />
the weather. And we arrive at the striking Catacombs. In Klima, in the<br />
area of the ancient city of Milos, you will see ruins from the walls and the<br />
ancient theatre. Following the path from the theatre to Klima we come to<br />
the agora of the ancient city. Mavro Tichos (Black Wall) is the site where<br />
the famous Venus of Milo, today gracing the Louvre Museum, was<br />
unearthed.<br />
3<br />
Katsogria - Ai Giorgis - Agia Marina – Rivari - Embourios. A route in<br />
western Milos, an area of particular natural interest which is included in<br />
the Natura 2000 network. The route passes by the Rivari Lagoon and<br />
ends at the little port of Emborio.<br />
4 Plaka - Panagia Thalassitra – Kastro – Plaka – Plakes –<br />
Fyropotamos – Mandrakia - Sarakiniko. The church of Panagia<br />
Thalassitra, with the Crispi's coat of arms on the lintel, is situated on the<br />
slopes of the hill overlooking Plaka. On top of the hill is the castle, built in<br />
141
the 13th century by the Venetian rulers of the island. The view from this<br />
spot is magnificent! Inside the castle lies the 18th century church of<br />
Panagia Schiniotissa and the catholic church of Santa Rosaria. The<br />
route comes to Sarakiniko, where you will experience a view of<br />
unrivalled natural beauty: pure white, carved by the sea, rocks, sea<br />
caves and a small sandy beach.<br />
Sights and attractions<br />
A tour around Milos by caique offers sights of astonishing beauty. The<br />
sea caves of Papafrangas (named after a catholic priest who berthed<br />
his boats there), on the northeast coast offer a uniquely original and<br />
beautiful sight. This breathtaking sight is amplified by the fascinating<br />
shapes of the Glaronissia, exactly opposite the caves, rising from the<br />
Aegean and creating a fantastic landscape. To the southwest, below the<br />
monastery of Agios Ioannis, the Smaragdenia Spilia (Emerald Cave) is<br />
one of the most impressive sea caves in the <strong>Cyclades</strong>. The central part of<br />
the ceiling of the 130-metre long chamber has caved in, allowing the<br />
penetration of daylight. On the southwest tip of the island, in gorgeous<br />
Kleftiko, enjoy a breathtaking sight: large, white blocks that seem to rise<br />
from the sea, arranged in a semi-circle and forming a beautiful lake<br />
between the blocks and the shore. At the tip of cape Tourlos, the wind and<br />
the waves have sculpted the striking rocks, called “Arkoudes” (Bears) or<br />
“Venetsianes” (Venetian ladies) by the locals.<br />
142
Five nautical miles northwest of Milos lies Antimilos, a volcanic creation<br />
with steep slopes rising abruptly from the sea to a maximum height of<br />
670 meters. The island is crowned by a extraordinary volcano crater.<br />
While the island's volcanoes are extinct, some manifestations such as<br />
fumaroles (holes in a volcanic region, from which fumes arise) and the<br />
hot springs, show the existence of some sort of connection between the<br />
surface of the island and the earth's interior. So, those in search of<br />
therapeutic tourism may visit one of the island's many hot springs: the<br />
hot springs of Lakkos in Adamandas, Alyki, Makrinou, Agios Ioannis,<br />
Provatas, Paleochori, and Kanava.<br />
Feasts and flavours<br />
In Milos, people cherish social events and celebrations, and observe<br />
every traditional minor and major feast. The major festivals are those of<br />
Agia Triada on the day of the Pentecost (the date changes from year to<br />
year), Agion Anargyron on the 30th of June, Agia Markella on the 21st of<br />
July, Agia Paraskevi on the 25th July in Pollonia, the Dormition of the<br />
Virgin on the 15th of August in Zefyria and Adamandas, and of<br />
Korfiatissa on the 8th of September in Plaka.<br />
The fine cuisine of Milos includes scrumptious lasagne with skordalia<br />
(potato and garlic dip), "pitarakia" (fried cheese pies stuffed with xerotiri<br />
- a type of local cheese - , mint and onion) and the local dairy products:<br />
xerotyri, xynomyzithra (sour soft white cheese) and touloumotyri (a type<br />
of moist, snow-white cheese). The local honey, tomato paste and spoon<br />
sweets are exceptional. The sweet flavours of Milos are supplemented<br />
M i l o s<br />
by the syrupy spanakopitakia or “flaounes” with raisins, and the<br />
wonderful “koufeto”, a wedding sweet made of white pumpkin pulp,<br />
sugar, honey and almonds.<br />
ONLY IN MILOS<br />
Milos is one of a kind. It has volcanoes, animals not found anywhere else<br />
in the world, and catacombs which, together with the catacombs in Rome<br />
and the Holy Land, are among the most significant globally as, between<br />
the late 2nd century and the 5th century, they served as a<br />
Christian cemetery, place of worship and<br />
sanctuary.<br />
Let's go to to Kimolos...<br />
Only a stone's throw away!!!<br />
143
www.cyclades-tour.gr<br />
CHAT ROOM<br />
“Kimolos”<br />
Kimolos, because Andreas and Natasha insist.<br />
They must know something. After all, Kimolos is very beautiful.<br />
I felt almost ashamed. They know everything about Kimolos and the sea<br />
park and its natural environment, the seals and the history of the island.<br />
It's a chance to find out more before you visit.<br />
I'm already reading. I even discovered what the local specialty is, and it's<br />
called “LADENIA”!<br />
Get recommendations<br />
“Kimolos takes its name from Kimolos and<br />
has given it to common chalk. It is a<br />
particularly beautiful island, both above and<br />
below the surface of the sea. Everywhere<br />
are found interesting sights of architectural<br />
and folklore interest, unrivalled natural<br />
beauty spots, interesting people and exciting<br />
activities. It is yet another world waiting to be<br />
discovered in the <strong>Cyclades</strong>.”<br />
How to get there<br />
You can visit the island by passenger boat<br />
from Piraeus, or by airplane from the airport<br />
of adjoining Milos, which is connected daily<br />
with Kimolos by ferry and caiques.<br />
144
Ê ÉÌ<br />
O L O S<br />
Kimolos, between Sifnos and Milos, is a favourite destination for those in<br />
search of peaceful holidays outside the touristic mainstream, in an<br />
enchanting setting with fascinating historical, but also and unique<br />
geological monuments like "Skiadi”, a rare mushroom-shaped formation<br />
that can provide shade to even 40 people. This volcanic island, with a<br />
surface area of 36 square kilometers, has a unique variety of rocks,<br />
dominated by the white colour of the “land of chalk”, while its coastline is<br />
interspersed with sandy beaches in some places and elsewhere by<br />
imposing, sheer rocks. Volcanic and mountainous Kimolos offers a<br />
unique variety of rocks, as well as very interesting fauna, which includes<br />
many migratory bird species. The wetland of Alyki is significant.<br />
According to mythology, Kimolos was named after its first settler,<br />
Kimolos. It has been inhabited since at least the Mycenaean period and<br />
is known since antiquity for its chalk mines – a major source of income<br />
for the island.<br />
It is a special destination<br />
Chorio or Kimolos, the capital of the island, is a picturesque Cycladic<br />
settlement situated inland around the Venetian castle of the 17th century.<br />
The settlement consists of two settlements, Palio Chorio (Old Village)<br />
and Kenourio Chorio (New Village), and is distinguished by its lovely<br />
snow-white houses and traditional windmills. The castle is divided into<br />
two settlements, Mesa Kastro (Inner Castle) and Exo Kastro (Outer<br />
Castle) – excellent examples of Aegean defensive architecture –<br />
connected through “portares” (entrance gates). Inside the castle lie the<br />
remains of the West Gate of the Mesa Kastro, the South Lower Gate<br />
from 1650 and the East Higher Gate from 1646. Inside the Kastro lies<br />
the church of Christ dating from the 16th century – the oldest on the<br />
island. Inside the cathedral of Panagia Odigitria, decorated by the<br />
145
Palaiologos family in the 15th century, with icons and a 17th century screen,<br />
there is the icon of the Panagia (Virgin). Other churches worth visiting are<br />
the church of Evangelistria (1608), with a carved screen and beautiful icons,<br />
Agios Ioannis o Chrysostomos, with the icon of St. John from the 18th<br />
Century, Agios Nikolas, Agios Georgios, Agii Anargyri, the church of the<br />
Taxiarches and Agios Spyridon.<br />
Finds from the excavations carried out in Ellinika, among them ceramic<br />
vessels, a sepulchral stele of the 7th century and richly decorated coins, are<br />
exhibited in the Archaeological Museum.<br />
The port of Kimolos is the holiday resort of Psathi, on the east coast of the<br />
island, at a distance of 1.5 km from Horio. A characteristic feature of this<br />
settlement are the “syrmata” with their colourful doors, caves on the beach<br />
where the fishermen tie their boats.<br />
Feasts and flavours<br />
Kimolos maintains the traditions of the Cycladic islands in an admirable way,<br />
observing the cycle of annual feasts with local music, dances and good<br />
cheer. The focal point of the celebrations on the island is the 21st of<br />
1<br />
November, when the feast of Panagia Odigitria and the custom of the icon is<br />
celebrated. On the 15th of August, a large island festival takes place during<br />
the feast of Panagia Konomu, as well as on the 20th of July the day of the<br />
Prophet Elias, and on the 27th of July at Prassa on the day of Agios<br />
Panteleimon. Smaller festivals take place on the 26th of July, the feast of Agia<br />
Paraskevi at Xaplovouni and on the 5th of October, the feast of Ossia<br />
Methodia.<br />
The “Politistikos Avgoustos” (Cultural August) festival is held in Kimolos every<br />
summer, with exhibitions, sports events, children events, performances,<br />
competitions, and dance and music nights.<br />
Traditional fare in Kimolos includes the scrumptious “ladenia” (bread dough<br />
topped with tomatoes and onions baked in a roasting pan with plenty of oil),<br />
eggs with potatoes and onions, traditional manouri (fresh whey white cheese)<br />
and “xino” cheese (soft fresh cheese with a sour flavour), while the limpets,<br />
rice and red mullets with capers are exceptional savoury dishes. The<br />
paximadia (dry rusks) blended with schinokokko, the tomato paste and the<br />
local honey are exceptional.<br />
Routes for all<br />
Sightseeing in Ellinika. The ancient city of Kimolos, which sunk into the sea<br />
during an earthquake in the 1st century A.C., lies in the area of Ellinika or<br />
Limni. The remains of ancient houses, the cemetery at the end of the beach<br />
and its acropolis lie on the islet of Agios Andreas. At the bottom of the channel<br />
between Kimolos and Agios Andreas lie the remains of houses and graves,<br />
whilst in Ellinika there is a diving centre.<br />
146
K i m o l o s<br />
2<br />
Klima - Paleokastro. In Paleokastro, the highest point in Kimolos (397m),<br />
lie the remains of houses and a round tower, as well as part of the outer wall<br />
called “Portara” by the locals. Excavations here brought to light vessels from<br />
the geometric and archaic ages.<br />
3<br />
Paleokastro - cave of Vromolimni, on the north coast of the island.<br />
4<br />
Paleokastro - cave of Konsolina, north of Paleokastro.<br />
5<br />
The sights of Kimolos include the picturesque windmills in Horio at the foot<br />
of Xaplovouni, as well as the Skiadi – a mushroom shaped rock, a<br />
geological formation that can accommodate forty people beneath it. It is<br />
listed under the Geological monuments of the Aegean.<br />
Beaches and trips<br />
Kimolos has beautiful beaches for swimming.<br />
An excellent idea is an excursion to the nearby islets of Polyegos and Agios<br />
Andreas, which have been declared areas of particular natural beauty. In the<br />
south cape of Polyegos, the small Kalogiri islets have impressive rock<br />
formations shaped by volcanic activity and wind erosion, a sight of rare<br />
beauty.<br />
Kimolos, Milos and the surrounding islets form a sea park of singular natural<br />
value.<br />
ONLY IN KIMOLOS<br />
In the sea, the presence of underwater fields of posidonia oceanica seaweed<br />
is of particular importance, since it enriches the sea with oxygen and<br />
constitutes an ideal natural environment for a large number of fish and<br />
invertebrate species. In the many sea caves along the coast, seals find<br />
refuge to rest and give birth. The total population of the species in this area is<br />
estimated at 43, of varying ages, excluding newborns. Northeast Kimolos<br />
and Polyegos, as well as the sea area surrounding the two islands, are<br />
included in the NATURA 2000 Network of the most important ecological<br />
areas in Europe. In 1999, the organisation 'Mom' proposed the establishment<br />
of a protected area under the name “National Sea Park of Kimolos”.<br />
Let's go to Anafi...<br />
Only a stone's throw away!!!<br />
147
www.anafi.gr<br />
CHAT ROOM<br />
“Anafi”<br />
“Weddings are in fashion in Anafi”<br />
“I was invited to one. I found the ritual a bit too much but that was probably the decision<br />
of the koumbara (something like a maid of honour/'best woman').<br />
However, I fell in love with the island.”<br />
“Is this a sophisticated island too?”<br />
“Not in the least. It is simply wonderful.”<br />
“We should go together.”<br />
“For sure we'll go for 4-5 days. You'll fall in love with it, it is like a painting,<br />
wherever you look.”<br />
Get recommendations<br />
“I built a house in Anafi and I always schedule time to<br />
go there. I spend time with the friends I invite over.<br />
They are always happy to come, but I can almost<br />
hear them think “But… in Anafi?!!!”. They arrive<br />
amazed and spell-bound and, on the next morning at<br />
the latest, they apologise that they didn't realise that<br />
Anafi is such a magical place. It is.”<br />
How to get there<br />
Anafi is connected by boat all year round with Piraeus<br />
and the Cycladic islands.<br />
Transportation on the island is reasonable, with<br />
frequent bus services from Chora to the port, Klisidi,<br />
Monastiri and many beaches. You can also rent a<br />
bike.<br />
148
A N A F I<br />
Its tranquillity is overwhelming<br />
Set in rough terrain, imposing and beautiful, with quiet beaches, inviting<br />
little white houses and hospitable people, Anafi is the ideal destination for<br />
those in search of tranquility and quality in their travels.<br />
Anafi lies on the southeast side of the <strong>Cyclades</strong>, east of Santorini. The<br />
island is mostly rocky and dry, but with water springs and cultivable land in<br />
some areas, thriving mainly with olive trees. The sources of income of its<br />
approximately 500 inhabitants are fishing, agriculture, apiculture and<br />
tourism.<br />
According to one scenario, Anafi derives its name from a mythological<br />
incident: the rescue of the Argonauts by Apollo, who, during a terrible<br />
storm, threw a bright arrow and an island – “Anafi” – emerged<br />
(anafanike) from the depths of the sea where the Argonauts disembarked<br />
and were saved. According to another scenario, the island took its name<br />
from the fact that it is devoid of snakes.<br />
There is much to see<br />
Chora is situated panoramically on the crest of the hill at a distance of 1<br />
km north from the island's port, Agios Nikolaos, which lies on the south<br />
coast. Narrow, cobblestone streets, snow-white low houses with<br />
windows and domes freshly painted blue on the house tops (an<br />
architectural feature serving as insulation against the sun and the wind),<br />
149
flowered courtyards and the indispensable kiln, all in sizes proportionate to<br />
human dimensions, adapted to the limited available space, under the blinding<br />
Aegean light. The sights worth seeing in Chora include the many churches,<br />
as well as the windmills on the slopes surrounding Chora, which over time<br />
withstand the strong winds of the Aegean. The Archaeological Collection of<br />
Anafi, including statues and other very interesting finds from excavations on<br />
the island, is located in Chora.<br />
In August, cultural and sports events under the name of “Yakintheia” and<br />
“Argonautika” are held in Chora. On the last day of these events, an outdoor<br />
festival is organised in the square of Agios Nikolaos, in Chora, with live music,<br />
food, wine and dancing.<br />
Between Agios Nikolaos and Chora, to the east, rises Klisidi, a small<br />
settlement with very few houses and guesthouses.<br />
cuttlefish with fennel and kofto makaronaki (elbow pasta) and, of course, the<br />
local savoury hard cheese and the wonderful thyme honey. At Christmas,<br />
housewives prepare the traditional koufeto (cake made of honey and roast<br />
almonds), on New Year 's Day they bake zofaristo bread (with feta cheese<br />
scented with saffron) and at Easter they serve melitera (sweet cheese pies with<br />
local myzithra cheese, eggs, sugar and vanilla), always accompanied by the<br />
exquisite local tsikoudia (colourless spirit distilled from the skins and stems left<br />
after grape pressing). The rare wine variety strofyliatiko is produced in Anafi.<br />
A particularly sumptuous event is the wedding banquet, which lasts from<br />
Tuesday till the following Monday and where all the people of the island are<br />
invited. The main course is katsikaki kokkinisto (kid in red sauce) with potatoes<br />
or pasta, and guest are treated to sisamomelo (sautéed sesame beaten in a<br />
gourd, mixed with honey and cinnamon) and koufeto – a special savoury treat.<br />
Routes for all<br />
The island is not rich in “sophisticated” life, but it has a great natural and cultural<br />
wealth, which the visitor will get to know walking along its paths – this is why<br />
Anafi is ideal for walking tourism.<br />
150<br />
The taste of hospitality<br />
The people of Anafi are known for their graciousness and hospitality. Local<br />
cuisine includes local stuffed kid baked in the traditional wood kiln, fresh fish,<br />
pasta with lobster, chick pea croquettes, gemista (stuffed vegetables),<br />
Anafi is a destination attracting mainly nature seeking tourists, offering them the<br />
opportunity to discover unknown aspects of the countryside of Anafi, through<br />
an extended network of select paths. This network, with a total length of 18 km,<br />
runs through a large part of the island and constitutes the Routes of Cultural<br />
Interest, which cut across spots or lead to destinations of special historical,<br />
cultural or environmental importance.
1 Chora – Roukounas - Megas Potamos - Moni Zoodochou Pigis<br />
(Kalamiotissas).<br />
The treck starts outside Chora, from the intersection of the country road<br />
towards Monastiri with the road leading to the port. There is a road sign<br />
leading to the path. This route, for the most part along the shore, cuts across<br />
the south part of the island, with direct access to the beaches of Mikros and<br />
Megalos Roukounas, Katalymatsa, Megas Potamos, Agii Anargyri and<br />
Prasies. Several parts of the path are flagged. Monastiri is the most important<br />
destination and the end of this route. The path from Chora up to Roukounas is<br />
interrupted in several parts by the road and other interventions, but is generally<br />
in good condition. The route is smooth, cutting across areas without any<br />
noteable gradients.<br />
The route can also be followed in the opposite direction: Moni Zoodochou<br />
Pigis - Megas Potamos – Roukounas - Chora.<br />
Route duration: 2 hours and 15' – 2 hours and 30'.<br />
2<br />
A n a f i<br />
Kastelli - Iera Odos [Agios Mamas - Moni Zoodochou Pigis].<br />
The route starts from the signpost to Kastelli, on the Chora-Monastiri road.<br />
The path which cuts across the archaeological site is in very good condition<br />
and very interesting. In a northerly direction, the route reaches easily the<br />
chapel of Ai Mamas, the location of an ancient sanctuary with the remains of<br />
ancient tombs. From there, the journey through Iera Odos – the ancient road<br />
connecting the illustrious temple of Apollo – where one can see at intervals<br />
some paved parts of the road – is without any problems. The route continues<br />
on mount Halepa and, nearing the isthmus where Monastiri is located, the<br />
view to the sea is unobstructed from both sides of the route.<br />
The route can also be followed in the opposite direction: M. Zoodochou Pigis -<br />
Ag. Mamas - Kastelli.<br />
Route duration: 1 hour and 30'.<br />
151
Particular attention should be paid to prevailing strong winds. The view in every<br />
direction, both during the ascent as well as its end point (former Kalamiotissa<br />
Monastery), compensates the walker. Entry to the church of the Panagia is<br />
only possible with prior arrangement.<br />
Route duration: 1 hour and 15' – 1 hour and 30'.<br />
3 Agios Mamas - Agios Dimitrios - Agios Antonios.<br />
From Agios Mamas, in a north-westerly direction, the route follows a country<br />
road which comes to the area of Agios Dimitrios, with a cluster of traditional<br />
homes. From there, the path, well preserved and downhill, cuts across an<br />
area with an unobstructed view to the sea in the north, and passes by a series<br />
of homes and the remains of ancient buildings. The arrival at Kastraki, a<br />
precipitous site with the monydrio (small convent) of Agios Antonios, holds in<br />
store a unique experience for the hiker. To visit the church – with its<br />
characteristic architecture and 14th century Byzantine frescoes – one must<br />
make arrangements in advance with the caretaker.<br />
Route duration: 1 hour and 15'.<br />
5<br />
Chora-Stavros-Rachidi-Lakki.<br />
Starting from the centre of the village, the route follows a northerly direction to<br />
the heart of the inland. The path is uphill and well maintained, up to the<br />
Byzantine chapel of Stavros, an essential stop along the route. From there and<br />
for approximately 500 metres, the route continues along a country road and<br />
comes to the site of Rachidi, passing by the mountain mass of Vigla to the<br />
west. The landscape is characterised by the presence of many country<br />
cottages. Next, the route continues again on a downhill path that comes to the<br />
once thriving farming district of Lakki. The route can also be followed in the<br />
opposite direction: Lakki – Rachidi – Stavros - Chora.<br />
Route duration: 1 hour and 30' – 1 hour and 45'.<br />
4<br />
Moni Zoodochou Pigis - Kalamos (formerly Kalamiotissa Monastery).<br />
The hike presents mountaineering features. The route starts from Monastiri,<br />
passing above the cove of Halara, which is exposed to the north winds.<br />
Uphill, with particularly steep gradients in many spots, the path climbs up<br />
steep and often dangerous spots which are, however, secured by rails.<br />
The landscape is divine<br />
During every walk on the island, the tourist will come across picturesque little<br />
churches and the gorgeous “katoikies”, small country structures with austere,<br />
plastic architecture that blends perfectly with the landscape.<br />
They will also come across beautiful and mesmerising landscapes. The rocky,<br />
steep slopes which in summer succumb to the heat of the Aegean sun, in<br />
152
A n a f i<br />
winter are covered by an emerald green carpet of grass and in spring are<br />
abloom with wildflowers of every colour imaginable, while the scent of thyme<br />
and sage is predominant.<br />
Sea and action<br />
In summer, the visitor will swim at perfectly clean beaches, away from<br />
organised, busy beaches. On the south part of the island are clean, sandy<br />
beaches with crystal clear waters, and in the north and west, rocky beaches.<br />
The main beaches of the island, starting from the port of Ag. Nikolaos south<br />
of Chora and eastwards, are: Ag. Nikolaos, Klisidi, Katsouni, Flamourou,<br />
Mikros and Megalos Roukounas (a beautiful, 1 km long, sandy beach where<br />
nudism is permitted), Katalymatsa, Ai Giannis, Megas Potamos, Agii<br />
Anargyri, Monastiri and (on the north coast of the island) Halara, Vryssi,<br />
Livoskopos.<br />
Snorkelling and underwater fishing are excellent pastimes, especially on the<br />
north coast.<br />
Weather permitting, visitors can tour the island with the local caiques or their<br />
own boat, or go on an excursion to the nearby islets Ftena, Anafopoulo,<br />
Makria, which have been declared areas of particular natural beauty.<br />
ONLY IN ANAFI<br />
You will see the low, snow-white houses topped with domes, a local<br />
architectural feature insulating them from the sun and the wind.<br />
If you wish, you can climb mount Kalamos, a huge compact monolith rising<br />
461 metres above sea level – the largest after the rock of Gibraltar. The view is<br />
unforgettable.<br />
And if you are heading for the dance at the festival, you will hear spur-of-themoment<br />
songs, sang casually for you alone.<br />
Let's go to Folegandros...<br />
Only a stone's throw away!!!<br />
153
www.folegandros.gr<br />
CHAT ROOM<br />
“Folegandros“<br />
Unbelievable, we keep seeing the same people all over the place.<br />
You've become one big group. Was it good?!<br />
We all had two common interests. First, we chose Folegandros as a destination<br />
knowing what it has to offer.<br />
And secondly, we were having such a good time that we were absolutely prepared<br />
to share our moments.<br />
Well, not all, but we had the wonderful feeling of being one big group of friends.<br />
Get recommendations<br />
“Folegandros is a narrow and long rock in<br />
the sea, and one wonders how it can<br />
accommodate History, Civilisation, Beauty<br />
and Mankind treading its length and<br />
breadth. Beautiful and clean in every aspect,<br />
Folegandros has much to offer, from stories<br />
and legends, to flavours and fishing<br />
experiences, always with an open-hearted<br />
and friendly disposition”.<br />
How to get there<br />
During the summer, Folegandros is<br />
connected daily by fast ferries with Piraeus.<br />
In addition, conventional boats connect<br />
Folegandros with Piraeus and the other<br />
Cycladic islands all year round.<br />
154
F O L E G A N D R O S<br />
Between Milos and Sikinos, bathed in the light of the Aegean,<br />
emerges Folegandros – an inexhaustible source of surprises for the<br />
traveller. The pure architecture of its settlements, the paths<br />
crisscrossing every corner of its landscape, the lovely secluded sandy<br />
beaches with the crystal clear waters, the cobblestone streets of<br />
Chora and Kastro, the panoramic view to the Aegean, the nights that<br />
come to life and the merry-making that takes off with the wine in the<br />
taverns mark the visitor with indelible memories.<br />
In Folegandros, the beaches with their clear waters and beautiful sea<br />
floor with the characteristic green stones of the island and the<br />
deserted spots under the armyrikia (salt-water trees) offer the visitors<br />
endless opportunities for relaxation and good swimming.<br />
Folegandros is a favourite place for sea sports aficionados, such as<br />
windsurfing and snorkelling, and every August the Nautical Club of<br />
Folegandros holds swimming races and regattas in Karavostassi<br />
and Agkali.<br />
History is written in pictures<br />
Folegandros has a surface area of 32 square kilometres and a<br />
population of about 600 inhabitants. It has been inhabited since the<br />
early Cycladic period, with the Kares and Phoenicians mentioned as<br />
its first settlers. Next came the Cretans, lead by the son of King<br />
Minos, Folegandros, to which the island attributes its name.<br />
The capital of Folegandros, Chora, is situated inside and around the<br />
Kastro (Castle) above a sheer drop 200 metres above sea level.<br />
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Chora is a beautiful settlement with genuine Cycladic-architecture<br />
houses, cobblestone streets interspersed with squares – a construction<br />
characteristic unique in the <strong>Cyclades</strong> – and many picturesque<br />
churches: Agia Ekaterini, Theoskepasti, Agios Antonios, Agios Nikolaos<br />
(cathedral), Pantanassa, Agia Eleoussa, with fine screens and<br />
wonderful post-Byzantine icons of the Cretan School. On the main<br />
street of the settlement (Kato Roua, as it is called by the locals) the<br />
white, two-storey houses with the colourful windows and doors and the<br />
stone stairways, leading to a small veranda with the wooden rails, built<br />
one beside the other, comprise the outer wall of the 13th century Castle,<br />
built over the precipice. Every night, the small gate of the Castle, the<br />
“loggia”, was closed until daybreak, protecting the inhabitants from pirate<br />
raids. It is a characteristic example of a medieval Cycladic defensive<br />
settlement, inhabited continuously up to the present day. The view to the<br />
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Aegean from the sheer slope of the Castle in the square of<br />
Pounta is impressive!<br />
Very close to Chora lies Agkali, the most beautiful beach on<br />
the island, in a divine landscape with perpendicular rocks.<br />
Three kilometres southeast of Chora lies Karavostassis, the<br />
port of the island, in an inlet the entrance of which is blocked<br />
by two rocky reefs. A picturesque, Cycladic settlement with<br />
white houses, ideal for peaceful holidays and good swimming.<br />
The road south of Karavostassi leads to Livadi, a small village in one of<br />
the most fertile areas on the island. Nearby there is a wonderful sandy<br />
beach with turquoise waters and an organised camping site.<br />
Folegandros – a long and narrow rock in mid sea which in spring and<br />
autumn is covered by wildflowers and an emerald green grass carpet –<br />
is ideal for hiking. An extended and well maintained network of paths<br />
cuts across the entire island, amidst the dry stone walls and terraces<br />
reaching all the way down to the sea, interspersed by small churches,<br />
old windmills, deserted “themonies” (small scattered clusters of<br />
cottages) and gorges, giving an unobstructed view over the sheer sides<br />
of the island and the blue of the Aegean.<br />
F o l e g a n d r o s<br />
Routes for all<br />
1 Chora - Panagia. The “strataki”, is a whitewashed, snaking<br />
slip road on the saddle of the sheer rock where Chora is<br />
situated, leading to the monastery of the Virgin with the<br />
imposing white imposing church of Kimisi, a 19th century<br />
basilica with many domes and a high bell tower.<br />
Architectural parts of an ancient temple that pre-existed on<br />
this site lie in the church courtyard, while the torso of a roman statue is<br />
built into the bell tower. From here the view over the Aegean is<br />
panoramic!<br />
Outside the Castle, next to the precipice, lies part of the wall of the<br />
ancient city.<br />
2 Chora - Agios Eleftherios. A route to the highest peak, Agios<br />
Eleftherios (455 m.), on the south part of the island.<br />
3 Karavostasis -Livadi. A tour in the eastern part of the island, an area<br />
included in the Natura 2000 network, since it is a crossing point-reserve<br />
for many migratory birds.<br />
4 Sightseeing in Ano Meria. In the north part of the island, at a distance of<br />
5 kilometres from Chora, lies Ano Meria, a sparse settlement comprising<br />
of “themonies”, scattered stone cottages with outbuildings and a garden<br />
– marvellous autonomous agricultural and husbandry production units.<br />
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One such themonia of the 19th century constitutes<br />
the – one of its kind – Folk Museum of Ano Meria,<br />
which includes a water basin, a larder, a kiln, a stable,<br />
an olive press, a threshing ground, a vineyard and<br />
wine press – a complete reproduction of life in a<br />
traditional agrarian household.<br />
The church of Agios Georgios and the old windmill<br />
tower over Ano Meria, where you will find<br />
accommodation, restaurants, cafés, a bakery using<br />
wood, and the traditional pasteli (honey and sesame<br />
sweet) workshop. The beaches of Agios Georgios<br />
and Ambeli are exquisite.<br />
5 Ano Meria - Faros. A route with a wonderful view to<br />
the lighthouse of Aspropounta, on the north coast,<br />
built in 1919 (alternatively, you can reach the<br />
lighthouse in 15 minutes on foot from Livadaki).<br />
6 A one of a kind experience is the customary three-day walk during the<br />
days of Easter on the island, during the procession of the icon of the<br />
Virgin: from Ano Chora to Ano Meria, from Ano Meria to the church of<br />
Pantanassa in the Castle, from Ano Meria to Karavostassi.<br />
Sea and trips<br />
The shores of Folegandros are ideal for underwater fishing, while during<br />
the autumn nights young and old engage in calamari<br />
fishing with the “kaftero” fluorescent hook.<br />
Those who seek sea excursions will find in Karavostassi<br />
caiques which tour the island, offering the opportunity to<br />
swim at deserted beaches – Fira, Aspropounta,<br />
Serfiotiko, Livadaki - and visit caves accessible only from<br />
the sea, such as the cave of Georgitsis, on the south side<br />
of the island.<br />
Finally, with your boat or by caique you can visit the<br />
neighbouring islets. The islets east of Folegandros are a<br />
refuge for migratory birds and are included in the Natura<br />
2000 network, and Agios Ioannis opposite Karavostassi<br />
has been declared an area of particular natural beauty.<br />
Feasts and flavours<br />
Folegandros does not offer the bustling cosmopolitan lifestyle of other<br />
islands, but entertainment is rather in the form of groups having fun<br />
together. At night, the squares and cobblestone pavements of Chora<br />
bustle with people filling the restaurants and taverns, and later strolling<br />
amidst its narrow streets and hidden corners, gathering in the squares for<br />
rakomelo (raki, honey, spiced with cinnamon and clove) or for summer<br />
nights in the little bars, with foreign and Greek music. The evenings in<br />
Karavostassis are more mellow: people who fill the taverns for ouzo and<br />
fresh fish during the day come here at night for soft music and drinks by<br />
the sea. In the taverns of Agkali and Ano Meria, after a few glasses of<br />
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F o l e g a n d r o s<br />
wine, partying island-style to the sounds of the violin and the lute, is a<br />
common occurrence.<br />
Easter-time is wonderful, with the three-day procession of the icon of the<br />
Virgin, when every house greets the procession with treats followed at<br />
night by traditional feasts.<br />
Opportunities for partying are the festival of Panagia Martiatissa on the<br />
1st of March, the festival of Panagia Magiatissa on the 1st of May, of<br />
Agios Panteleimonas on the 27th of July in Ano Meria, of Christ on the<br />
6th of August in Agkali and the festival of the 15th of August in the<br />
monastery of Panagia.<br />
Enjoy its flavours<br />
Folegandros is famous for its exceptional dairy products: fresh soft<br />
“souroto” cheese, an essential addition to salads, the local cheese pie<br />
“kalassouna”, and the hard and “gylomeno” cheese (a spicy hard<br />
cheese that matures and is maintained in gyli – wine sediments). Fine<br />
white and red wine varieties are cultivated on the island.<br />
The local specialty is meat kokkinisto (goat, rabbit or cockrel in tomato<br />
sauce) with the local fresh, handmade “matsata” pasta. Other favourite<br />
dishes are the “tarachta” (pasta with myzithra cheese), oven baked<br />
chick peas, cooked capers, the karavoli giachni (snail stew) and the<br />
local savoury pies: kolokythenia (marrow pie), kremmydenia (onion<br />
pie), karpouzenia (a sweet pie with watermelon, honey and sesame).<br />
In Folegandros, weddings and baptisms are always accompanied by<br />
the local pasteli; at Christmas housewives fry “makarones” (a type of<br />
honeyed macaroon) and in Easter they bake the very tasty honey pies,<br />
dough blended with fresh myzithra cheese and fine thyme honey.<br />
ONLY IN FOLEGANDROS<br />
Chrysospilia, located 10 metres above sea level, is one of the largest<br />
caves in Greece, with impressive stalactites and stalagmites. During the<br />
4th century B.C. the cave was a place of worship and coming of age<br />
ceremonies. A large part of the walls and the ceiling is covered with male<br />
names which it is believed belonged to adolescents of the period – a<br />
unique occurrence in the Hellenic period – and vessel shards and human<br />
bones were also discovered.<br />
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each island<br />
a world of its own<br />
Edition 2008<br />
Research-information: Spyros Kouvaras<br />
Creative: Spirito Libero Ltd.<br />
Translation-Interpretation: PASPARTU<br />
Redaction: <strong>Cyclades</strong> Developmental Company S.A.<br />
Copyright© Prefectoral Committee<br />
of Tourist Promotion of the <strong>Cyclades</strong><br />
Cycladic Tourism Promotion Office<br />
Tel: +30 22810 88834 - Fax: +30 22810 87982 - e-mail: info@anetky.gr<br />
www.cyclades-tour.gr