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The Way We Were (PDF 826KB) - Rails-to-Trails Conservancy

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Ticket <strong>to</strong><br />

Dining Car His<strong>to</strong>ry<br />

Graham Gems: Many Class I railroads used<br />

cus<strong>to</strong>mized dining car china, often unique<br />

<strong>to</strong> specific trains, such as the Union Pacific’s<br />

Winged Streamliner pattern, introduced in<br />

1936. Railroads frequently offered specialty<br />

items available only in their dining cars. <strong>The</strong>se<br />

Graham Gems, sweet milk muffins, were<br />

served exclusively on the New York, New<br />

Haven and Hartford Railroad. <strong>The</strong>n there were<br />

the Pennsylvania Railroad’s Ginger Muffins,<br />

<strong>The</strong> Milwaukee Road’s Richmond Corn Cakes,<br />

and the Great Northern Railway’s Pota<strong>to</strong> Rolls.<br />

Kansas-Texas Railroad trains as the Katy<br />

Flier and the Bluebonnet. Travelers on<br />

these trains could look forward <strong>to</strong> the<br />

basket of warm Kornettes on their table<br />

in the dining car (see sidebar page 20).<br />

<strong>The</strong> Illinois Central Railroad, which<br />

connected Chicago with New Orleans,<br />

specialized in Cajun cuisine. Passengers<br />

often boarded the northbound Panama<br />

Limited or City of New Orleans in<br />

Champaign-Urbana, Ill., just <strong>to</strong> enjoy<br />

a Cajun meal going in<strong>to</strong> Chicago, then<br />

<strong>to</strong>ok a local train back home.<br />

<strong>The</strong> Baltimore and Ohio Railroad<br />

delighted travelers with saltwater seafood<br />

served on trains traveling west <strong>to</strong> Chicago<br />

or St. Louis, and freshwater seafood on<br />

trains traveling east <strong>to</strong> Baltimore and<br />

Washing<strong>to</strong>n. <strong>The</strong> New York, New Haven<br />

and Hartford Railroad perfected salads as<br />

an entrée, at one time listing nearly 70 in<br />

its food service manual.<br />

In addition, railroads—especially<br />

<strong>We</strong>stern lines such as <strong>The</strong> Milwaukee<br />

Road—routinely bought up prizewinning<br />

lives<strong>to</strong>ck at state agricultural<br />

fairs. Those champions were employed for<br />

breeding purposes on the railroads’ own<br />

cattle farms, which supplied the dining<br />

cars.<br />

Hungry for more information about<br />

dining cars and railroad cuisine?<br />

You’ll enjoy these books:<br />

C&O Dining Car Recipes, a reprint of the<br />

1947 Chesapeake & Ohio food service<br />

manual from the C&O His<strong>to</strong>rical Society,<br />

chessieshop.com or 800.453.2647.<br />

Dining by Rail: <strong>The</strong> His<strong>to</strong>ry and Recipes of<br />

America’s Golden Age of Railroad Cuisine,<br />

by James D. Porterfield, a his<strong>to</strong>ry of eating<br />

on the train featuring 330 recipes from 48<br />

railroads of the “Golden Age” of American<br />

passenger railroading. St. Martin’s Press.<br />

Dining Car <strong>to</strong> the Pacific: <strong>The</strong> “Famously<br />

Good” Food of <strong>The</strong> Northern Pacific<br />

Railway, by William A. McKenzie, an<br />

account of the evolution of one railroad’s<br />

dining car operations, including recipes<br />

for 150 of its most appealing dishes.<br />

University of Minnesota Press.<br />

Dining Cars and Depots: Train Food in<br />

America, compiled and published by<br />

Patricia B. Mitchell, offering his<strong>to</strong>rical and<br />

personal anecdotes as well as 21 recipes.<br />

Available from Foxfire Museum gift shop:<br />

foxfire.org/diningcarsanddepots.aspx.<br />

Dining on the B & O: Recipes and<br />

Sidelights From a Bygone Age, by Thomas<br />

J. Greco and Karl D. Spence, containing<br />

original B&O recipes and modern interpretations,<br />

with pho<strong>to</strong>graphs, commentary<br />

on the technical aspects of cooking<br />

on a moving train, “service notes” used<br />

by chefs, stewards and waiters, and a<br />

glossary of cooking terms. Johns Hopkins<br />

University Press.<br />

Dining on the Shore Line Route: <strong>The</strong><br />

His<strong>to</strong>ry and Recipes of the New Haven<br />

Railroad Dining Car Department,<br />

by Marc Frattasio, a well-illustrated<br />

his<strong>to</strong>ry of the New York, New Haven and<br />

Hartford Railroad’s dining operations,<br />

with recipes for many popular menu<br />

items. TLC Publishing.<br />

Dining on the UP: A Reproduction of<br />

the Union Pacific Railroad’s Dining<br />

Car Manual of Recipes and Service<br />

Instructions. Published by the Cheyenne<br />

Depot Museum Foundation,<br />

tinyurl.com/9sfncr7 or 307.638.6338.<br />

Dinner Is Served: Fine Dining Aboard the<br />

Southern Pacific, by Jim A. Loveland,<br />

a his<strong>to</strong>ry of the Southern Pacific’s dining<br />

car operation with recipes. Golden <strong>We</strong>st<br />

Books.<br />

Rufus Estes’ Good Things <strong>to</strong> Eat, thought<br />

<strong>to</strong> be the first cookbook published by<br />

an African-American chef who went <strong>to</strong><br />

work for the Pullman Company in private<br />

car service in 1883; contains 591 recipes.<br />

Dover Publications.<br />

<strong>The</strong> Harvey House Cookbook: Memories<br />

of Dining Along the Santa Fe Railroad,<br />

2nd Edition, by George H. Foster and Peter<br />

C. <strong>We</strong>iglin, tells the Harvey s<strong>to</strong>ry and<br />

provides recipes from the famous Harvey<br />

dining rooms that marked the route of<br />

the Santa Fe Railroad. Longstreet Press.<br />

Recipes of the Erie Lackawanna—Dinner<br />

in the Diner 1964–1970, a reprint of<br />

bulletins issued by the railroad’s dining<br />

car department <strong>to</strong> the dining car staff,<br />

including recipes, plating directions<br />

and serving instructions. From the Erie<br />

Lackawanna Dining Car Preservation<br />

Society, eldcps.org/s<strong>to</strong>re.<br />

rails<strong>to</strong>trails ◆ spring/summer.13 19

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