Superbrands 2004 - Brand Autopsy

COSMETICS and FRAGRANCES
to post an increase last year. (Within cosmetics and fragrances,
private label is a chain’s own product, bearing a “brand” name,
as in Duane Reade’s Apt. 5 line.)
Reaching down to a more fertile segment, marketers have
made teen and tween girls a priority with makeup and specialty
toiletries such as flavored lip balm and fragrances, mostly via
licenses with candy or snack brands (such as Bubble Yum, Snapple
and Tootsie Roll). Deals with young celebrities abound.
Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen, for example, sold their fragrance
exclusively through Wal-Mart and began expanding the brand
to other outlets this past spring. (The Olsens have a licensing
deal with Coty). In the prestige area, department store brand
Elizabeth Arden will look to lure females in their
teens to mid 20s via a license with Britney Spears
launching this fall.
One by one, celebrities have taken the place of
supermodels and designers in the cosmetics and
fragrance arena (think J. Lo’s two fragrances,
Celine Dion’s perfume and an upcoming fall
launch from Sean “P. Diddy” Combs for men).
Beyond licensing, beauty marketers have been
striking deals with actors and entertainers as
brand spokesmodels. Among the notables: actress
Nicole Kidman (Moulin Rouge, The Stepford Wives),
who has a contract with Chanel to appear in ads
this fall for its classic scent Chanel No. 5; and
actress Scarlett Johansson (Lost in Translation),
who will appear in ads for a new Calvin Klein fragrance.
(Don’t feel sorry for the models. Tyra
Banks has her own TV show).
Revlon continues to struggle financially, posting
losses for 22 consecutive quarters, but is hoping that a
revamped advertising campaign will help change its fortunes. An
$80-100 million umbrella campaign launched in April, via
Deutsch, New York, steps away from product and benefit-driven
ads, and was shot to resemble romance movie trailers. Featuring
spokesmodels Halle Berry, Julianne Moore and Eva
Mendes, the effort aims to create an emotional link with women,
as executions use stirring Italian music and convey an image of
giving viewers a peek into the celebs’ lives.
BRAND
COMPANY NAME,
LOCATION
Superbrands
As for products, Revlon is streamlining its blush offerings next
year, which may result in better inventory control. Cheek color
is one of the smaller subcategories in makeup, as women buy
blush less than, say, lipstick or mascara.
Simply called Revlon Blush, a powder, cream and bronzer
version rolled earlier this year and may ultimately replace
other SKUs. Additionally, this spring Revlon added Super
Lustrous Lip Gloss (to complement its best-selling lipstick of
the same name), and New Completion One-Step Makeup compact
(with two color palettes in one compact for better skintone
matching). That product is being played up for its “shade
precision,” as the average skin “has many subtle color differences,”
per materials.
Revlon has also been active with
TV promotions and movie tie-ins. In
2002, it launched several limited-edition
color collections to coincide
with the James Bond movie Die
Another Day. Its most recent movie
partner, Havana Nights, was barely
visible and had a limited box office
run last fall. That celluloid disappointment
might have kept Revlon
from riding along with Halle Berry in this summer’s
Catwoman from Warner Bros.
Thankfully, beauty marketers have less expensive
tie-in options with the rise in reality and
makeover shows, such as ABC’s Extreme Makeover
Hopeful glimmer: J. Lo’s Glow and Bravo’s Queer Eye for the Straight Guy. The lat-
adds luster to a flat market. ter program has featured many small and niche
hair and skincare brands, but has also gotten
major manufacturers to sign on. Among the closet-full of Queer
Eye beauty placements/endorsements: Paul Mitchell and Redken
hair products; Norelco’s Advantage shaver, nose hair trimmer
and beard trimmer; Johnson & Johnson’s Neutrogena
Instant Bronze (for sunless tanning); Church & Dwight’s Arm
& Hammer deodorant, and one of Gillette’s Oral-B electric
toothbrushes. Toss in the Crest Whitestrips, bath salts and other
branded products and you’ve got a beauty products showcase
any marketer would love. B
LEAD AGENCY,
LOCATION
WOMEN’S FRAGRANCES
1. Private Label N/A N/A $34.6 N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A
2. Calgon Coty, New York Badger Kry, New York 23.4 $6.2 6.43 39% 6.11 47.9
3. Healing Garden Coty, New York Badger Kry, New York 13.3 7.3 6.73 15% 7.51 57.2
4. White Diamonds Elizabeth Arden, New York Goodby Silverstein, SF, 11.0 3.3 6.51 35% 5.53 45.6
5. Body Fantasies
MEN’S FRAGRANCES
Parfums De Coeur, Darien, CT In House 9.1 4.9 6.31 17% 6.22 47.9
1. Axe Unilever, Greenwich, Conn. Bartle Bogle Hegarty, NY $50.9 $26.4 N/A N/A N/A N/A
2. Old Spice P&G, Cincinnati Saatchi & Saatchi, New York 18.6 4.1 6.32 77% 5.32 45.7
3. Gillette Series Gillette, Boston BBDO, New York 12.4 4.4 N/A N/A N/A N/A
4. Coty Stetson Coty, New York Unassigned 10.8 11.5 6.12 45% 5.36 43.1
5. Brut Helen of Troy, El Paso, TX N/A 10.7 N/A 5.92 51% 4.81 38.5
Sources: Information Resources (sales); TNS/CMR (media); Harris Interactive/EquiTrend: QxFxPI=E (see key, page S18)
www.brandweek.com JUNE 21, 2004 S35
TOTAL
SALES
(millions)
MEDIA
EXPENDITURES
(millions)
QUALITY
FAMILIARITY
PURCHASE
INTENT
EQUITY