Tifosi Rana - Adam Sloman

TECHNICAL Tifosi RANA
Midget
Makeover
Can’t afford a Frogeye but love the style? There is
another way to put one on your driveway.
By Adam Sloman
With 2008 seeing the Frogeye
Sprite celebrating its 50th
birthday, this year has really seen
these characterful sports cars
thrust into the limelight. But those distinctive
Frogeye looks only lasted for three years before
the more conventionally-styled Sprite and MG
Midget took over, and values are high. As a
result, demand consistantly exceeds supply and
this has left a genuine Frogeye beyond the reach
of many enthusiasts.
One way around this is to take a later Midget
and give it a makeover using a Forgeye-inspired
Rana bodykit from Devon based company,
Tifosi. The Rana (Italian for frog) is one of the
most accessible kits on the market, making good
use of the fact that the Midget’s basic structure
remained unchanged when it lost the bug eyed
look in 1961. As a result, fitting it is well within
HOW TO DO IT
the range of the home DIYer and the finished car
does not require the stringent SVA test demanded
by more extreme conversions.
The kit is offered in two flavours: ‘Standard’
retaining the Midget’s doors and wind up
windows, or ‘Authentique’ which uses
replacement fibreglass doors. It is the brainchild
of lifelong MG enthusiast and former MG
works mechanic, Kevin Moore. We took a trip
down to his workshop in the quiet mid-Devon
village of Chulmleigh to see how it is done.
What follows is something of a simplified
breakdown of how to go about the Midget-
Sprite conversion, designed to help you assess
whether building such a car is within your
capabilities. It is important to remember though
that the whole project can be done with your car
as a runner – Kevin’s had some customers do the
back one weekend and the front the next.
This MKII Sprite is just one of many examples at
1 Tifosi that is awaiting the Frogeye treatment. The
car for the basis of our particular build is a late model,
rubber bumpered 1500 MG Midget that Kevin had
already begun to prepare.
It is possible to strip the car right back to its base
2 structure for total renovation, but Kevin is keen to
stress this isn’t necessary to fit the kit and that the
home builder need only remove those bits that need
to be repaired or replaced.
3
The first step is to disconnect the battery, and to
ensure the car is free from fuel leaks. Remember
that you are going to be grinding and sending sparks
around the workshop, so keep flammables stored
securely away and cover any glass or paint.
With the bulk of the metal work gone, you can
7 now drill out the factory spot welds one by one
and remove the remaining strips of panelwork. Take
care to ensure that no sharp metal spurs are left
behind after you drill out the welds.
The floor of the boot area is then trimmed off
8 level with the ends of the inner wing webs. Our
rubber bumper car has had its chassis rails trimmed
back to the same point as they will no longer be
required to support that heavy rear bumper.
The bootlid hinge panel is cut away next and
9 discarded. This is the point of furthest stripdown,
the ideal opportunity to check over the car’s structure
and repair any rust you find. The first Rana panel can
be then offered up to the Midget’s shell.
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A classic case of reverse
engineering, the Tifosi
Rana is a relatively simple
and cost-effective way to
transform a tired Midget.
Remove all the interior trim, as well as the
4 headlamps and trim (keep these safe – they’ll
become your Frog’s eyes). Remove the front wings,
bonnet and grille surround. Some interior trim can be
reused, saving your wallet from further pain.
On rubber bumper variants, the grille surround
5 has to be cut off; on early cars, this simply unbolts.
The lips on the edges of the front wheel arches are
then removed, as pictured above. The next step is
rather more brutal...
You now need to cut away the Midget’s outer
6 panels. Get rid of the bulk quickly by cutting about
an inch inboard of the seams. And yes, Kevin is being
a bit naughty when posing for this shot – be sure to
wear protective gloves and goggles when cutting.
With the rear moulding in place, it is time to
10 mark out the cut line on the inner rear wing.
First draw around the new wheelarch, then remove
the moulding – thanks to its fibreglass nature it is
easily maneuverable even on your own.
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You now need to measure one inch up from
11 your marked line and the new arch profile can
be cut. A repair section is included with the kit to
cover any angle-grinder based mishaps. This picture
shows the section of arch that needs to be cut away.
The next job is to weld or bolt on these B-pillar
12 supports (the kit is designed so that it can be
fitted to a sound car without welding). These do not
add structural strength, but reduce flexing stress
which could, over time, cause the fibreglass to crack.
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TECHNICAL RANA MIDGET
HOW TO DO IT (continued)
The rear end is then fitted and the rear cross
13 member (the angle iron shown here already
bolted across the middle of this picture) is offered up
against the rear moulding. Mark the position of the
cross member on the boot floor.
Now remove the rear panel again so you can
14 bolt and bond the crossmember to the boot
floor. Apply sealant up the pillar, sill top, inner arches
and the vertical face of the rear crossmember, then
you can finally re-fit the rear end for the last time.
You will then need to drill the B-pillar for up to
15 12 rivets, and put three holes in the number
plate mount. These are for bolts to hold the rear end
in position while the sealant cures – they need only
be nipped up as they are not structural.
The back end will now look like this and can
16 be left for the sealant to cure. Meanwhile, you
can turn your attention to the front end and the most
distinctive part of the car. This is also a one-piece
moulding that can be offered up for trial fitment.
The kit comes complete with plywood bonnet
17 locator guides that fit with self tapping screws,
allowing the bonnet to sit properly with the Midget’s
scuttle panel. Measure the moulding’s lip carefully,
then position these guides and secure them in place.
The Midget dates from a time before computer
18 aided design and robots, and there were
variations between chassis produced at Abingdon.
The hinge bracket comes with slotted holes so you
can position it for the best fit.
Getting the front end lined up correctly is the
19 most crucial part of the build as it is key to
getting the car to look right. On the Tifosi built car (as
illustrated), the hinge is bolted and bonded to the
fibreglass, but use of the bonding agent is optional.
The front end can now be fitted permanently.
20 The bonnet guides should ensure the bonnet
locates correctly when shut. The exterior brightwork
can be offered up, as well as the Midget’s headlights
– only rubber bumper ones have integral sidelights.
All the lighting for the Rana is included in the
21 kit, except for the headlights (told you you’d
need them). A popular modification is to fit a halogen
headlamp conversion kit, vastly improving the visibility
offered by the original sealed-beam units.
Security locks can also be fitted to the front
22 panel, adding a little extra piece of mind. Final
fitment of the exterior equipment takes place once
the panels have been painted. With paintwork
complete, the interior can be refitted...
... unless of course you chose to have an
23 interior makeover too. A wide range of interior
goodies are available from steering wheels to seats,
as well as original-style clocks or even lightweight, allin-one
stack style instrumentation.
PRICING and contacts
Standard kit (retaining donor vehicle’s dashboard,
doors and wind-up windows) – £1650.
Authentique kit (using fibreglass doors, and
authentic dash) – £2000.
Tifosi Sportscars: 01769 520706,
tifosi@homecall.co.uk, www.tifosi-devon.co.uk
Appointed agents for kits and builds:
n Northern UK Region:
Hall’s Garage, Morton, Lincs. 01778 570286
n Southern UK Region:
Frontline Developments, Bath. 01225 852777
n Southwest UK Region:
Devon Classic Cars, Ermington. 01548 831393
n Australia: Tandem Chassis Developments,
Seven Hills, NSW. 02 9764 4003
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