Tifosi Rana - Adam Sloman

More documents

Recommendations

Info

A classic case of reverse engineering, the Tifosi Rana is a relatively simple and cost-effective way to transform a tired Midget. Remove all the interior trim, as well as the 4 headlamps and trim (keep these safe – they’ll become your Frog’s eyes). Remove the front wings, bonnet and grille surround. Some interior trim can be reused, saving your wallet from further pain. On rubber bumper variants, the grille surround 5 has to be cut off; on early cars, this simply unbolts. The lips on the edges of the front wheel arches are then removed, as pictured above. The next step is rather more brutal... You now need to cut away the Midget’s outer 6 panels. Get rid of the bulk quickly by cutting about an inch inboard of the seams. And yes, Kevin is being a bit naughty when posing for this shot – be sure to wear protective gloves and goggles when cutting. With the rear moulding in place, it is time to 10 mark out the cut line on the inner rear wing. First draw around the new wheelarch, then remove the moulding – thanks to its fibreglass nature it is easily maneuverable even on your own. www.mgenthusiast.com You now need to measure one inch up from 11 your marked line and the new arch profile can be cut. A repair section is included with the kit to cover any angle-grinder based mishaps. This picture shows the section of arch that needs to be cut away. The next job is to weld or bolt on these B-pillar 12 supports (the kit is designed so that it can be fitted to a sound car without welding). These do not add structural strength, but reduce flexing stress which could, over time, cause the fibreglass to crack. September 2008 MGE 73
TECHNICAL RANA MIDGET HOW TO DO IT (continued) The rear end is then fitted and the rear cross 13 member (the angle iron shown here already bolted across the middle of this picture) is offered up against the rear moulding. Mark the position of the cross member on the boot floor. Now remove the rear panel again so you can 14 bolt and bond the crossmember to the boot floor. Apply sealant up the pillar, sill top, inner arches and the vertical face of the rear crossmember, then you can finally re-fit the rear end for the last time. You will then need to drill the B-pillar for up to 15 12 rivets, and put three holes in the number plate mount. These are for bolts to hold the rear end in position while the sealant cures – they need only be nipped up as they are not structural. The back end will now look like this and can 16 be left for the sealant to cure. Meanwhile, you can turn your attention to the front end and the most distinctive part of the car. This is also a one-piece moulding that can be offered up for trial fitment. The kit comes complete with plywood bonnet 17 locator guides that fit with self tapping screws, allowing the bonnet to sit properly with the Midget’s scuttle panel. Measure the moulding’s lip carefully, then position these guides and secure them in place. The Midget dates from a time before computer 18 aided design and robots, and there were variations between chassis produced at Abingdon. The hinge bracket comes with slotted holes so you can position it for the best fit. Getting the front end lined up correctly is the 19 most crucial part of the build as it is key to getting the car to look right. On the Tifosi built car (as illustrated), the hinge is bolted and bonded to the fibreglass, but use of the bonding agent is optional. The front end can now be fitted permanently. 20 The bonnet guides should ensure the bonnet locates correctly when shut. The exterior brightwork can be offered up, as well as the Midget’s headlights – only rubber bumper ones have integral sidelights. All the lighting for the Rana is included in the 21 kit, except for the headlights (told you you’d need them). A popular modification is to fit a halogen headlamp conversion kit, vastly improving the visibility offered by the original sealed-beam units. Security locks can also be fitted to the front 22 panel, adding a little extra piece of mind. Final fitment of the exterior equipment takes place once the panels have been painted. With paintwork complete, the interior can be refitted... ... unless of course you chose to have an 23 interior makeover too. A wide range of interior goodies are available from steering wheels to seats, as well as original-style clocks or even lightweight, allin-one stack style instrumentation. PRICING and contacts Standard kit (retaining donor vehicle’s dashboard, doors and wind-up windows) – £1650. Authentique kit (using fibreglass doors, and authentic dash) – £2000. Tifosi Sportscars: 01769 520706, tifosi@homecall.co.uk, www.tifosi-devon.co.uk Appointed agents for kits and builds: n Northern UK Region: Hall’s Garage, Morton, Lincs. 01778 570286 n Southern UK Region: Frontline Developments, Bath. 01225 852777 n Southwest UK Region: Devon Classic Cars, Ermington. 01548 831393 n Australia: Tandem Chassis Developments, Seven Hills, NSW. 02 9764 4003 74 MGE September 2008 www.mgenthusiast.com
Page 1: TECHNICAL Tifosi RANA Midget Makeov

Tifosi Rana - Adam Sloman

Create successful ePaper yourself

Delete template?

Save as template?