Tifosi Rana - Adam Sloman

TECHNICAL RANA MIDGET
HOW TO DO IT (continued)
The rear end is then fitted and the rear cross
13 member (the angle iron shown here already
bolted across the middle of this picture) is offered up
against the rear moulding. Mark the position of the
cross member on the boot floor.
Now remove the rear panel again so you can
14 bolt and bond the crossmember to the boot
floor. Apply sealant up the pillar, sill top, inner arches
and the vertical face of the rear crossmember, then
you can finally re-fit the rear end for the last time.
You will then need to drill the B-pillar for up to
15 12 rivets, and put three holes in the number
plate mount. These are for bolts to hold the rear end
in position while the sealant cures – they need only
be nipped up as they are not structural.
The back end will now look like this and can
16 be left for the sealant to cure. Meanwhile, you
can turn your attention to the front end and the most
distinctive part of the car. This is also a one-piece
moulding that can be offered up for trial fitment.
The kit comes complete with plywood bonnet
17 locator guides that fit with self tapping screws,
allowing the bonnet to sit properly with the Midget’s
scuttle panel. Measure the moulding’s lip carefully,
then position these guides and secure them in place.
The Midget dates from a time before computer
18 aided design and robots, and there were
variations between chassis produced at Abingdon.
The hinge bracket comes with slotted holes so you
can position it for the best fit.
Getting the front end lined up correctly is the
19 most crucial part of the build as it is key to
getting the car to look right. On the Tifosi built car (as
illustrated), the hinge is bolted and bonded to the
fibreglass, but use of the bonding agent is optional.
The front end can now be fitted permanently.
20 The bonnet guides should ensure the bonnet
locates correctly when shut. The exterior brightwork
can be offered up, as well as the Midget’s headlights
– only rubber bumper ones have integral sidelights.
All the lighting for the Rana is included in the
21 kit, except for the headlights (told you you’d
need them). A popular modification is to fit a halogen
headlamp conversion kit, vastly improving the visibility
offered by the original sealed-beam units.
Security locks can also be fitted to the front
22 panel, adding a little extra piece of mind. Final
fitment of the exterior equipment takes place once
the panels have been painted. With paintwork
complete, the interior can be refitted...
... unless of course you chose to have an
23 interior makeover too. A wide range of interior
goodies are available from steering wheels to seats,
as well as original-style clocks or even lightweight, allin-one
stack style instrumentation.
PRICING and contacts
Standard kit (retaining donor vehicle’s dashboard,
doors and wind-up windows) – £1650.
Authentique kit (using fibreglass doors, and
authentic dash) – £2000.
Tifosi Sportscars: 01769 520706,
tifosi@homecall.co.uk, www.tifosi-devon.co.uk
Appointed agents for kits and builds:
n Northern UK Region:
Hall’s Garage, Morton, Lincs. 01778 570286
n Southern UK Region:
Frontline Developments, Bath. 01225 852777
n Southwest UK Region:
Devon Classic Cars, Ermington. 01548 831393
n Australia: Tandem Chassis Developments,
Seven Hills, NSW. 02 9764 4003
74 MGE September 2008
www.mgenthusiast.com