the wilcox family cyclists - Spokes Magazine

Cycling
“The GAP”
by BARBARA SHELLENBERGER
LEAVING FROM HAGERSTOWN, MARYLAND to explore
the Great Allegheny Passage (which is adjoins the
C&O Canal in Cumberland) was just absolutely
extraordinarily beautiful. Our journey was to take
us about 130 miles through a most picturesque
area of Pennsylvania and Maryland framed by the
Youghiogheny, and the Casselman Rivers plus the
Allegheny Mountains without ever having to climb a
difficult hill.
It is a beautiful day at the crack of dawn at the middle
of summer. Our bicycle packs are loaded in the drop
off car to be driven by our friend and husband. We
will ride in the return car that will be left at the end
of our trip in Cumberland, Md. After planting our
return car in Cumberland, we board the drop off car
containing our packs and bicycles to follow map quest
directions to McKeesport, Pa. It is a very scenic driving
route with a few miles on the Pennsylvania Turnpike;
we soon arrived to our destination – McKeesport, Pa.
Now the first challenge begins, for it is very difficult to
find the point of the Youghiogheny River Trail or the
Great Allegheny Passage. Missing signs and confusing
one-way streets with construction added to our frustration
for finding the onset of the trail.
As luck would have it, we did find a knowledgeable
person, who verbally directed us correctly. It was
rather challenging to keep on the trail as it rambled
over bridges and around businesses in McKeesport.
It was quite apparent that we were to experience a
most picturesque trail when we entered the trailhead
at Boston (very close to McKeesport, Pa.). It was in
Boston that we found a convenient parking lot and
the trail was very evident.
Excitedly, we took to our pedals and made our
way enjoying the scenery of this lovely area. The
Youghiogheny River running to our left would be a
scenic companion of interest throughout the first two
days of the journey.
Our first memorable waterfall was white in color flowing
high on our left and sounding its stately presence.
With this waterfall high on our right and the river low
on our left. We quickly felt submerged in nature’s theater
of perfection as the streaming sun warmed the
area into a bright late morning.
Traveling on came a second waterfall this one was as
broad as it was high; its color was of the normal earth
tones and announced its presence with the delightful
sounds of calm consistent falling water. We now
understood why this bicycle trail was so popular, for
we too were engrossed in its remarkable beauty.
Pedaling while being submerged in the joy of cycling,
we came across other bicyclists, who lived in the
area and were out for a day ride. It was nice to have
conversation until our route came to the Sutterville
trail access this forwarded us the three miles to our
first trail town, West Newton with viable places to eat,
drinking water (for our water bottles), even an interesting
bicycle shop –just in case you forgot something
or needed a map.
Moving on from the quaint viable trail town, we
came to Cedar Creek Park. Had we been more energetic,
we could have enjoyed a wonderful game of
Frisbee on this park’s many acres of lush lawn. The
Youghiogheny River running along as the park’s border
added to the park’s charm. Since there were many
picnic shelters here, this was an ideal spot for the
lunch we brought along in our bicycle packs.
Following lunch, we continue on the stone chip trail
through many very small locations mostly being parking
areas for the YRT trail, Smithton, Van meter, then
we spotted Jacobs Creek’s rushing waters spilling
foamingly into the Youghiogheny River. This was just
another beautiful photographic moment to savor.
Passing Whitsett, we arrived at Layton, to a sign
announcing another water view. From this area
through Linden Hall to Dawson, wild flowers held our
interest in their variety and scope of colorful designs.
It was now becoming late afternoon and a mild
fatigue was beginning to set in.
When to our delight, we came to the Connellsville
Trail Station here we had been instructed to make a
call to our bed and breakfast the Victorian Tea House
proprietor, who would come to get us and our bicycles
to bring us up a three mile hill to his original home
place now “rearchitectured” into a magnificent home
with lovely gardens situated high on the Connellsville
hill looking down into the town.
After a shower and tour of the Victorian remodeled
house, our host gave us a tour of their outside gardens
then drove us to a wonderful restaurant where
we savored a most delicious dinner- all within our
budget. After a restful night in this superb Victorian
atmosphere, a breakfast casserole with trimmings and
fruit enabled us to encounter our second trail day
with enthusiasm.
Bidding our host and hostess fond “goodbyes” we
were driven to the trailhead and began our second
day zestfully.
Pedaling from Connellsville, we were reminded of
the great work accomplished on the building of the
Pennsylvania railroad. Crossing a wooden bridge (formerly
used by trains) we could witness the mountains
and valleys into farmlands that presented a construction
challenge to the early rails.
The Youghioheny River on our left now reveals large
stones in its depth as the waters seems to speed revealing
rushing sounds of rapids. Through the trees small
waterfalls dropped from high rocks on our right. Just
as the land again opened, we witnessed a train in full
speed onto its destination. The sounds of trains were
heard throughout this day and into the next.
Coming to an interesting bridge we were fascinated by
hundreds of kayakers enjoying the rapids – some right
side up and others upside down. This was the ideal
spot to have lunch while watching this show. This ushered
us into the town of Ohiopyle. Had we prepared
to stay another day, we could at this spot have visited
Frank Lloyd Wright’s home and also Kentucky Knob.
These were built and today are museums of Wright’s
architecture.
We played typical tourist in Ohiopyle tasting the ice
cream and visiting the museum and shops then onto
the bicycles for more miles.
Passing Ramcat Run into Confluence, where the river
was now the Casselman River that we were to follow
until the next day when it disappeared.
The Casselman River is fly fisherman’s haven.
Everywhere you looked, you could see fishermen in
their hip boots enjoying the challenge of the “catch.”
Confluence was indeed a tourist delight as well with
many shops and places to eat and enjoy this scenic
area. At this point, we had 18 miles to continue for
our second day bed and breakfast. Plus, this was
indeed an uphill grade, so the Great Allegany Passage
trail calls us away from touristy delights to the end of
day pedaling challenge. This area was shady with trees
and the low flowing rocky Casselman River on our
left. It was slightly upgrade, as a result we relished as
a few resting places, where we stopped and pondered
nothing in particular.
Hurrah, the Pinkerton Tunnel! But alas, if only it was
still in use. Riding through it would have saved two
miles. Oh Dear, it has a detour. We pedal those two
miles to the end of the tunnel, where a sign tells us
we have only six more miles. These miles came to an
end in Rockwood, our second night’s bed and breakfast.
The Rockwood Trail House B&B presented itself
8 July 2008