10 {Johnnies Abroad} ADVENTURES ABROAD “My hours of leisure I spent in reading the best authors, ancient and modern, being always provided with a good number of books; and when I was ashore, in observing the manners and dispositions of the people, as well as learning their language, wherein I had a great facility by the strength of my memory.” Jonathan Swift, Gulliver’s Travels. Johnnies are the kind of travelers who approach a new culture like an unfamiliar text, ready to have their prejudices challenged and their horizons broadened. In these short essays, alumni who have spent an extended time in other countries write about the discoveries, disappointments, surprises, and delights found in the manners and dispositions of different cultures. Several went abroad to teach English: Mike Crawford in Colombia, Paul Obrecht in the Czech Republic, and Meredith Smith in Spain. Ryan Rylee spent a year in China and India during a break from the college to pursue his interest in the East. John Hartnett traveled to India and Lauren Sherman to Africa, both on volunteer medical missions. Recent dispatches or distant reminiscences, these aren’t typical travelogues. A Woman Who Danced with Fans by Ryan Rylee (A04) Beijing is hidden under a cloud, but it’s not the mystical kind. The cloud comes partly from the taxis and buses, of which there are more every year. As more Chinese get rich while auto import tariffs come down, those taxis are joined by private cars. One still sees, in outlying Beijing, modified tractors, smoking and jittering along the road. And it becomes less and less rare to see a coal-laden cart being pushed alongside a Mercedes Benz. The cloud over the city also comes partly from the coalburning stoves some people still use for warmth and cooking, and a little from the industrial plants. A lot of sand blows in from north of the city, where for hundreds of miles farmers are causing desertification with unsustainable grazing and farming practices, cultivating every inch of remaining land around the city. It has gotten so bad that some of them are now being paid by the state not to work. The cloud over the city is, more than anything else, the dust raised by development at what is certainly one of the largest construction sites in the world. <strong>St</strong>and at the window of a Beijing skyscraper and try to make out the number of construction cranes across the city. Nimble giants stand stock straight in flocks that stretch out much farther than the eye can see, vanish into the smog, and seem beyond counting. The city—and a lot of the country—are trying, fast as they can, to be as modern and Western and capitalist and techno- { The <strong>College</strong> • <strong>St</strong>. John’s <strong>College</strong> • Fall 2004 }
“The city—and a lot of the country—are trying, fast as they can, to be as modern and Western and capitalist and technological as possible.” Ryan Rylee, A04 Modern life is crowding out the traditional in China, with <strong>St</strong>arbucks, McDonalds, and other American franchises moving in. { The <strong>College</strong> • <strong>St</strong>. John’s <strong>College</strong> • Fall 2004 }