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How to Care for Curly Hair By Michelle Laxson and Rebekah Vigil The popularity of straightening treatments is on the rise, which is likely due to the unfair reputation curly hair has for being unmanageable. We encourage stylists and naturally curly clients to embrace curl, because when you are armed with the proper care, cutting and styling techniques, those spirals will inspire envy in their straight-haired counterparts. CARE – Curly hair is often drier than straight hair because of the increased amount of protein in the hair. Even products that help increase moisture in the hair often dissipate and disappear quickly. Always apply leave-in conditioning products to curly hair when it is very wet, almost dripping, immediately after shampooing and conditioning. Hair will soak in the product more effectively, because the drier hair is, the quicker the product will evaporate. A leave-in moisturizing conditioner will also help define the curls and decrease frizz and fluff. After applying a leave-in conditioner, remember not to dry the hair by wrapping it in a towel. Using a terry cloth towel to dry the hair will create frizz, because the hair follicles are open when the hair is wet and they will grab onto the cloth particles. Instead, flip upside down and comb through the hair using your fingers. When drying the hair with your fingers, try not to alter the shape of the curls. Use loose hands and loose pulling motions so you do not pull the hair straight. Your goal is to keep the hair in a natural formation so the hair retains the shape of the curl. In addition, we recommend having your clients sleep on silk pillows rather than cotton. Cotton pillows will create frizz in the hair, while silk material does not attach to the curl and will help prevent it. CUTTING – Cutting curly hair is always more of a challenge because you have to consider the texture of the hair and how it rounds out, rather than just the shape you want to achieve. When trying to create a shape in curly hair, you need to have a cut inside a cut. The cut needs to have two structures, the exterior and the interior. The cuts can mirror each other or be opposites, depending on what you are trying to enhance and achieve. The cut needs to have a disconnection to break up the roundness, preventing the hair from turning into a ball. Start with the exterior shape first, and then move to the interior. STYLING – Knowing how to style curly hair properly is often the biggest challenge. After combing the hair, make sure to re-wet it because if you have combed the hair a lot, the curls will get stringy during the drying process. By re-wetting the hair, you will help eradicate any parting or comb lines in the memory of the hair. Apply curl defining products in layers, and work in sections so you get the full benefit of the product. As you diffuse, make sure you are squeezing hair in tight fists, which forces product into the hair. Always keep the diffuser on low heat and low air because higher heat makes the hair look frizzy. This may take longer, but the end result will be worth it. Try to keep your hands and fingers off the hair and let the diffuser do its job. As you get towards the end of diffusing, turn the diffuser to cold air to work in volume near the scalp. Once you are finished diffusing, if the curls are not as defined as you would like, use a curl revitalizing product to revitalize curls and decrease frizz. This product can be reapplied throughout the day. If you are not into tight, diffused curls, you can set the hair while it is still wet by taking pieces of the hair and curling it using your hands. This results in calmer curls that are loose and manageable. Perms were once all the rage, and much like fashion, hairstyles are often cyclical. Armed with these guidelines, you can throw those straightening tools out the window and help your clients go au naturale as curls begin to make a comeback. Michelle Laxson and Rebekah Vigil are Global Team Educators for Eufora Intl. For more information visit www.eufora.net. NEW! As of July 1, 2010 Washington State has begun licensing Permanent Cosmetics. Get started in this fun, new and exciting career path. Add Permanent Cosmetics as a great PROFESSIONAL service to your business or start a new one today! Mary Tanneberg is a TRAINER/member, Subject Matter Expert, CPCP certified, and served 2 years on the national Board of Directors for the SOCIETY OF PERMANENT COSMETIC PROFESSIONALS. Treatments and Diverse Clients Esthetic Endeavors Judith Culp The population base in the United States is shifting as more cultures are merging. Did you know that in 1990, the US Census Bureau identified six races and 23 sub-types but just ten years later, in 2000 they identified six races and 67 sub-types? The world and our client base are changing. So, why would this be of concern to us as estheticians? Consider this scenario: A client who appears to be a Fitzpatrick III with a nice summer tan comes into the clinic for an AHA or BHA treatment. We do the treatment, following all of the manufacturer’s suggested guidelines and it seems to go well. The client gets a little pink, but nothing out of the norm. We do some extractions, a nice mask and check the client out when the service is complete. A few days later, the client comes back into the clinic complaining about skin discoloration. We note some brown areas – post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. Why would the client, who is only a Fitzpatrick III, hyperpigment? The answer lies in what we did not know – the client, although fair, is of mixed heritage, part Puerto Rican, and her skin reacted like that of a higher Fitzpatrick. The challenge to us as estheticians is in the field of skin analysis. The subtle blends of a client’s heritage may make their skin react in a manner we do not expect when we are performing services. The Fitzpatrick scale was developed back in 1975 and does not take clients with heritage blends into consideration. It only describes how skin will respond to UV exposure – inflammation, or the lack of it or a tan. It does not take into consideration two new areas that medical and clinical professionals now need information on: insult and injury. While estheticians should not be causing injury, we certainly want to be aware of how a client heals. We also want to be aware of how a client’s skin responds to what it perceives as insult. What is the risk of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation? The medical community is ahead on this as aesthetic procedures make it critical for dermatologists and plastic surgeons to be able to identify client risk factors. Since Asian skin can be very reactive, it is not surprising a system called the Kawanda Skin Classification system was one of the first to advance on the Fitzpatrick Scale back in 1986. This system was specifically developed to deal with Japanese patients. The next attempt at dealing with heritage related risk factors was the Lancer Ethnicity Scale developed in 1998. Lancer used the Fitzpatrick scale and added ethnicity to it. The Lancer scale has proven to be helpful to estheticians as it brought out the issues of heritage and better helped us identify how these clients might respond. Dr. Lancer’s research and development triggered a flurry of research and new scales to better attempt to deal with multiple cultures. Each had a different approach. The Goldman World Classification system deals with burning, tanning and post-inflammatory pigmentation. The Willis and Earles scale is for those of African only descent. It evaluates skin tone, UV response and pigmentation. Another scale, the Taylor Hyperpigmentation Scale, focuses on dyschromia. In 2006, the Roberts Skin Classification System was released, using a complex sevenpoint evaluation system to determine how the client’s skin will probably respond to inflammation, insult or injury. It makes use of the Fitzpatrick Scale, the Glogau Scale of Photoaging, a scale to evaluate tendency to pigmentary issues, and a scale to evaluate risk of scarring. While estheticians cannot use these in the same manner in which a physician would, we can still make use of the techniques. We can take a complete client history, including standard medical and lifestyle questions. We can establish their Fitzpatrick and add questions regarding ancestry to our questionnaire. We want to do a thorough evaluation of the skin through the magnifying light, observing skin tone, texture and signs of photoaging. In addition, we can ask the magic revealing question: When you have a skin injury, does it go from pink to red and then fade away OR does it go from pink to red to brown. If they say it goes brown, we know we have a client who is at risk for post-inflammatory pigmentation. We can evaluate this information to determine if we think the client is appropriate for the treatment, and if so, whether we need to use a more conservative approach. A good guideline for estheticians might be if the client has heritage that is in a higher Fitzpatrick range than her skin appears, treat her as the next higher level of Fitzpatrick. If she appears to be a Fitzpatrick IV but has African ancestry, treat her as a Fitzpatrick V. Using this approach, which is in essence what the medical community does, allows us to protect the client and minimize the risk of post-inflammatory pigmentation that can take months or longer to clear. Judith Culp, a CIDESCO Diplomat has been in the esthetics industry since 1980. A CPCP permanent makeup technician for over 20 years she served a 4-year term as a Director for the Society of Permanent Cosmetic Professionals, two years as their president. She is president of Culp Enterprises Inc. and CEO of NW Institute of Esthetics. Judy Culp is available for consulting. For more information visit www.estheticsnw.com. | OCTOBER 2010 | NORTHWEST STYLIST & SALON
Fat Profits from Thinning Hair by Craig Black Let’s face it; we take a risk by going into business. And we really take the risk, going into the hair business in order to make money. However, we also go into the hair business to help others by providing a valuable service. There is no hair issue that is more emotionally devastating to a person than losing one’s hair. Surprisingly, it is far more common than we realize. It is estimated that 70 - 80 million people in the U.S. suffer from thinning hair. Offering a solution to clients who suffer from thinning hair is emotionally satisfying, as well as financially rewarding. The hair loss industry in the U.S. today generates about five billion dollars per year. Yes, that is billion, with a “B.” My question to you is, how much of that did you get this year? The money is being spent, so shouldn’t you be getting your share? Every salon has clients that want thicker, healthier-looking hair and Laser Hair Enhancement does just that. The laser hood contains low-level laser lights that stimulate the scalp and hair to enhance the appearance. The rules and regulations for nearly every state’s Cosmetology Board expressly provides for the use of electrical appliances to stimulate the scalp and hair as a revenue producing service. (Make sure and check with your states regulatory department to confirm.) This is part of the practice of our trade and the laser is the most technically advanced equipment that can provide this service. Laser Hair Enhancement will create a new service category in your salon, and bring in a new source of income. So, why aren’t there more lasers in salons? Until recently, the cost of a laser was out of the price range for most salons. However, just like computers and cell phones, high-tech cosmetic lasers have become more powerful and have dropped in price. In your salon, clients can receive a 30- minute laser service twice a week. The average fee for the service is $200 to $300 per month, and since the laser uses no supplies, there is a high profit per service. Here is the best part, the laser works while you do something else. Google shows it has over 402,000 searches for “hair thickening products.” Think of all the money being spent for shampoos, mousses, sprays and gels designed to create fuller looking hair, as well as for new products designed to improve “hair retention.” People in your community are spending good money in the search for better looking hair. You can get fat profits from solving thinning hair problems, but only if you provide a solution that really works and low-level lasers have been clinically proven to do just that. For more information visit www.salonlasers.com or call Craig Black at 866-646-9050. BEYOND RETAIL Strategies For Business Success. A business awakening that takes you to amazing places offering nearly limitless opportunities for success. LIQUID FASHION Don’t Settle For Good. Be GREAT! Take style from day to evening to a nighttime of hot with fluid styling that sets trends and creates what’s next. BOTH DAYS STAR TREATMENT Complimentary on both days. Receive pampering with gourmet lunches, wine & cheese social hours, I.C.O.N. gift sets and drawings for valuable prizes. N OV E M B E R 7 & 8 B E L L E V U E C L U B B E L L E V U E WA SPECIAL GUESTS JORGE RUBIN ICON COFOUNDER & CEO CHIARA ICON COFOUNDER & CREATIVE DIRECTOR Two full days for salon owners, managers and stylists that will REVEAL INSPIRE ELEVATE Don’t miss this exciting event. It will not only change your business, it will change your life. Space is limited. Call today. 1.877.377.5386 FOR MORE INFORMATION www.ExclusiveSalonProducts.com NORTHWEST STYLIST & SALON | OCTOBER 2010 |
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