RTA 300 Router Table Review - Carba-Tec

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Pre-Cut Box Kit Project Sliding Box These boxes may be dovetailed on a dovetail jig such as the Leigh Jig, or alternatively they may also be hand-dovetailed, box-jointed, mitred or joined through other means. Just be aware that if you choose other types of joinery for the project you might need to adjust the panel sizes. PACKAGE CONTENTS In your pack of beautiful Western Queensland hardwood timber you should have: BOX COMPONENTS 2 of 200mm x 83mm x 8mm (long sides) 2 of 100mm x 83mm x 8mm (short sides) 1 of 192mm x 92mm x 8mm (neutral timber for base) FRAME AND PANEL LID 1 of 168mm x 68mm x 8mm (decorative panel) 3 of 200mm x 20mm x 8mm (2 x long sides for frame, and 1 to machine prior to cutting to size for smaller rails) ALL THE TIMBER IS KILN DRIED, CUT TO SIZE AND SANDED TO #150 GRIT Step 1: Layout A feature of this timber is that it has been end matched, being sawn from the one piece. You can therefore 'wrap' the timber around the box, matching the grain. Lay out your box and label the components clearly. It is also wise to label the corresponding edges to avoid confusion. Step 2: Dovetailing **REFER TO YOUR DOVETAIL JIG INSTRUCTIONS ON HOW TO CUT DOVETAILS.** On a Leigh® Jig, arrange your dovetail guide pins to suit the dimensions of the timber being machined. The dimensions used in these kits will also suit the Carba-Tec EuroJig® without modification. A backing piece is recommended to avoid chip-out when using dovetail jigs. Masking tape applied to the timber where the dovetails will be cut prior to machining will also help to prevent this. We recommend the use of CMT® Spiral Router bits for this task, as they will provide the cleanest cut. NOTE - If you are unfamiliar with your dovetail jig, it may be wise to machine some material to the same dimensions as your box components and cut sample dovetails to check the fit and the layout first. Step 3: Cutting the Grooves for the Bottom and the Sliding Top Dry assemble the box and hold it together with masking tape. Set up a 4mm slot cutter with a bearing in a router table. The grooves should be 4mm deep. Run the groove around the inside of the box, 4mm up from the edge, on both the top and bottom edges. NOTE - This will leave a rounded cavity in the corners. If you don't have a router table you can cut this groove on a tablesaw, with the box disassembled, but you may need to plug the ends of the dovetails where the blade comes through. Step 4: Rabbeting the Top and Bottom Plates To fit the bottom panel into the rebate you will need to create a tongue around the edge of the base board. A rabbeting bit is ideal. This tongue will need to be 4mm deep and a fraction under 4mm thick so it will comfortably fit into the 4mm rebate. If you have cut the rebate with the box assembled you will need to round the corners of your base before you cut the tongue. A 10 cent piece is ideal for this. Remember if you don't have a router table, the rabbet can be cut on a tablesaw on the same setting you used for your rebate.
Step 5: Gluing Up The panels should fit into the grooves about 4mm, leaving 1mm for movement. It is not necessary to glue the panels in, as they need to float so they can move with the changes of atmosphere. If you have routed the grooves with the box assembled as suggested (recommended), you will need to round the edges of the panels before machining the moulds, to suit the rounded cavity. A 10 cent piece is ideal to give you the correct curve. Step 6: Making the Sliding Lid The lid is a standard frame and loose panel construction. FIG. 9. It has a rabbet on 3 of its outer sides that fit into the groove on the top of the body of the box. The 4th outer edge is not rebated. SAFETY PRECAUTION- TO AVOID MACHINING VERY SMALL STOCK, WE PROVIDE THE FRAME IN THREE LONG PIECES. THESE ARE ALL TO BE REBATED, BEFORE ONE OF THE THREE IS CUT TO SIZE FOR THE SHORT RAILS OF THE FRAME. THE TENONS ARE THEN HAND CUT The frame is joined using an 8mm tenon on the ends of the rails. It fits into the 8mm rebate that runs right around the inside of the frame that houses the panel. A. Cutting the Grooves in the Frame Set up your router table with a 4mm slot cutter. Set up the fence so the slot cutter has only a small amount of clearance around it. Position the cutter height so the groove falls in the centre of the workpiece. The depth of the groove needs to be 8mm. Cut all three rail sections. B. Sizing the Rails & Cutting the Tenons After cutting the groove, you will need to cut the rail material to size. Cut 2 x 60mm lengths from one of the rail pieces for the short sides. It is safest to cut the small tenons on the rails by hand. Mark them out with a marking gauge. They are to be 4mm thick and 8mm deep and should run the full width of the 20mm wide rail. We suggest a fine precision Japanese Dozuki saw such as a WDG-150 or a Z-7029. These saws are perfect for fine accurate cuts such as is needed here. If you want to cut the tenons on a tablesaw take care doing this as the rails are tiny and your hands are close to the blade. Use a push block for support or better yet, make a jig to hold the rails. It may seem like a lot of trouble to go to, but jigs can save your fingers and/or your sanity. On a tablesaw set the height to 2mm (taken off each side), the thickness of the tongue (or tenon) should be 4mm, and a depth/width of 8mm. C. Moulding the Panel To fit the top panel into the frame you will need to reduce the thickness of the edges down to 4mm by cutting a mould around the outside. A cove cutting bit, dish cutting/bowl and tray bit or similar is required. (a CMT® 851-502-11 is ideal). The panel fits into the 8mm groove that has been cut into the frame. D. Gluing the Lid Dry assemble the lid, make sure it all goes together well and the panel fits in to the frame. When you are happy, glue the lid together, check for square and gently clamp it overnight. Don't use too much clamping pressure which can distort the job, or too much glue. It can be hard removing all the squeeze out from the corners. E. Rabbeting the Lid Fine sand the sliding lid. The last job is to run a rabbet around 3 sides to slide into the top groove. This needs to be 4mm deep x 4mm wide. It can be done on a router table or a tablesaw. If you have cut the box rebate on a router with the box assembled, you will need to round the tongue to fit into the curved ends.Test the fit, the lid should slide easily and sit nicely into place. Step 7: Finishing Native western timbers take a variety of finishes very well and can be cabinet scraped or sanded to a very fine level, bringing out the natural oil in the timber. The more effort you put into this pre-finish routine, the greater the reward will be. Organoil® products, particularly the Hard Burnishing Oil are highly compatible with these beautiful timbers. ENJOY !!!
Page 2 and 3: Figure 2. Figure 3. Remove the angl
Page 6 and 7: Pre-Cut Box Kit Project Split Lid B
Page 8 and 9: TRI-TRA001B Router Review Triton ha
Page 10: Brisbane Carba-Tec ® staff member

RTA 300 Router Table Review - Carba-Tec

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