RTA 300 Router Table Review - Carba-Tec

Figure 2.
Figure 3. Remove the angle setter
Hold honing guide flat
onto face of stone
Jan Schilling, a woodworker and teacher from Nimbin and the
demonstrator of our Veritas handplane range, explains the virtues
of the Veritas MK11 Honing Guide. Jan explains how you can easily
achieve the angles you want on all your chisels and plane irons,
she will also show you how to set an accurate micro bevel.
The Veritas honing guide is one of the easiest systems to set-up and replicate existing blade
angles with. For under $100, it’s well worth the investment and will remove the guesswork from
setting your angles, allowing you to be confident that the edge you are working on is the best
you can get.
The honing guide comes in two parts – the actual honing guide and the angle setter. You will
notice there are three colours and numbers on the guide. They are meant to be co-ordinated
with the angle guide.
Figure 1.
Choose the angle you wish to hone at (25° is the most common angle for sharpening
chisels and plane blades). Undo and slide the little indicator until it slots into the premarked
holes on the angle guide. Slide the angle setter onto the honing guide (you will
notice some numbers in inches) and roughly set it at the size of your chisel. It is not
critical to be dead on – it just helps to have your chisel centered in the honing guide. Now
nip up the knob on the angle guide until it is just firm, don’t over-tighten it.
Figure 2.
Hold the honing guide upside down and slide in your chosen blade until it touches the
stop. Make sure the blade is against the edge of the angle setter. Hold the blade with
your thumb and have your fingers on the back of the angle setter. This will allow you to
look down the blade as you tighten the two brass screws evenly on the honing guide. If
they are not tightened evenly, your blade may skew as you sharpen.
Figure 3.
Once you are happy the blade is secure in the honing guide, remove the angle setter, it
is no longer required.
If you use waterstones to sharpen on, make sure you do not just roll in one spot. Work around
the stone and rotate it regularly. This will help prevent hollows forming in the face of your stone.
Start with a coarse grit if you are intending to give the blade a full grind (probably around 300
grit) and continue to sharpen until the entire edge is sharpened. You can feel a burr on the
back of the blade and this will indicate that you have sharpened all the way along the blade.
Change to an 800 grit stone and work your way to a 1200 grit and then finish on a 4000 grit
or a 6000 grit. The 6000 grit water stone is broader and more suitable for use with the honing
guide. If you don’t want to give the blade a full grind, you can begin with the 800 grit stone.
Creating a Micro Bevel: On the bottom of the honing guide you will notice a knob with a mark
on it. This will allow you to hone a micro bevel on your blade. Pull the knob out and turn it until
the mark faces downwards. This raises the blade by one degree. Using one of the finer stones,
a 1200 grit for example, roll the guide over the stone and you will see the micro bevel begin to
form along the very edge of the blade. Continue with finer and finer grits of stone until you have
reached your desired level of sharpness. The advantage of a micro
bevel is that between sharpenings it is possible to give your blade
a touch-up by honing only this small bevel on a fine stone.
Accessories: The Veritas honing guide has two accessories
that can be purchased separately. A cambered
wheel is available to remove the square corners of a
plane blade creating a slightly convex profile as you
hone it. This prevents the corners of the blade from
digging into the face of your work.
Another accessory is the skew angle setter.
This is useful for setting angles on
some carving and bench
chisels.
Figure 1.
Figure 4. Honing guide angle setter and
accessory Camber wheel

Customer Profile - Ric Fallu
Woodworking takes all different forms. For Ric Fallu, a Carba-
Tec customer from Victoria, it is the ability to combine his love
of the underwater world and fishing with a passion for woodworking
that inspires him. In retirement, Ric has set himself a challenge
to build in wood a series of classic speargun designs normally crafted
in plastic and metal. This has proven to be a real test of ingenuity
and skill. Along the way he has found companionship with
fellow woodworkers and rediscovered a love of woodwork that has
been with him for most of his life.
My name is Ric Fallu and I build wooden spearguns. When I was four
or five years old I discovered a wood rasp in the family garage and
used it to shape wooden tent pegs. I nailed on a couple of pieces
of board and voila! I had a toy airplane. I still have that wood rasp.
A few years later I had my first experience of wearing a mask and
snorkel in the sea. It was then I became hooked on the underwater
world.
In the early 1960s my education involved weekly visits to Carnegie
school, where I was taught woodwork by Mr. Scott-Young. As well as
basic skills, Mr. Scott-Young taught me the importance of precision
and keeping a neat workplace. Both lessons have stayed with me
lifelong.
I later encountered ‘Handbook for Skindivers’ by Ben Cropp, it
contained instructions on how to make a wooden speargun. I
bought the book and made the gun, that was the beginning of a long
journey.
In the early 1970s, I was glazing-in a veranda and borrowed a handplane
from my father. It was blunt and I didn’t have any instructions
on how to sharpen it. I sat down and looked at the angles, it was
like a light globe going off in my head. The appropriate angles
became obvious. I sharpened the blade on an oilstone and it
worked (if perhaps not brilliantly). I still have that plane.
The years passed. Family issues and career development took
precedence and I parted company with most of the hair on my head.
I didn’t have the spare time to progress with my woodwork but when
I was working in Darwin in the 1990s I enjoyed the tropical delights
of skin-diving and spearfishing in Darwin Harbour (murky water, with
crocodiles). One encounter with a large fish resulted in a broken
speargun, as there is not a great demand for diving gear in Darwin
(murky water, with crocodiles) and as I couldn’t get a replacement
speargun, I decided to build one. I started and haven’t stopped
since.
Not long after that I discovered Carba-Tec ® and found a source of
fine woodworking tools not readily available elsewhere. Not only are
these tools functional, they are things of beauty in their own right.
I finally retired from work to take up a life of indolence. I had to do
something with my time, so this is how I began working my way
through building the classic styles/designs of spearguns. Many of
the designs were developed as a consequence of advances in plastic
and metal technologies, it’s a real challenge nutting out how to
duplicate the designs in wood.
These are real working spearguns, built to take fish and withstand
the hurly burly of freediving and spearfishing. I might be getting old
on the outside but there is still a 19 year old on the inside that
delights in the thrill of the chase.
I learned the basics of woodwork back in the 1960s, but my skill
level needed improvement. My joints were less than precise, and
the glue-lines were too thick and variable. I joined the Wonthaggi
Woodcrafters where I benefitted from the fellowship and skills of the
other members. I also did a stint with the Melbourne School of Fine
Woodworking.
My joints are now much better (the
wooden ones that is - I wish I could say
the same about the ones on my skeleton).
Mr. Scott-Young would have
approved.
I don't have much of a workshop, I
use my garage at my coastal Victorian
house and the garage at my partner's
house in Melbourne. I do most of my
work on a table on the front veranda.
It's solid and weighty, and the top is
soft pine that won't mark or dent my
work-pieces. I have a power drill, a
power planer, a hand held router, and
of course - like just about every other
household in Australia - I have a Triton
saw bench, but I prefer to use hand
tools wherever I can (the neighbours
approve too). The local kids tell me I
use the same tools used in Lord of
the Rings. They think it's great.
Spearguns have several key components.
The stock is the backbone of the
gun, and it has to be dead straight. My
normal practice is to glue-up stocks
from paired laminates (paired to balance
stresses and ensure the stock
timber doesn't move). Once the laminates
have been ripped and left to
readjust to their new shape, I flatten
and smooth them with my #6 Veritas
plane. I glue and clamp them to a
straight form, and nowadays the gluelines
are gratifyingly slim and even.
I square glued-up stocks using the
same plane, but I use a high angle Lie
Nielson block plane for more detailed shaping. Epoxy is hard stuff
and it takes a toll on plane blades. They need frequent sharpening,
so I now use a Veritas guide and waterstones. It's faster and more
accurate than the techniques I used in my youth and it puts a better
edge on the blades too.
As far as timber goes, some people will tell you that there are three
timbers suitable for spearguns: Teak, Teak and Teak. I don't entirely
agree. Timbers with a maritime tradition, such as Teak and Huon
Pine, have a great wow factor and are lovely to work with, but the
right stick of more common timbers can be just as functional and
just as decorative, especially if they are appropriately sealed.
I use Tasmanian Oak, Douglas Fir, and even Radiata Pine. The key
requirement for speargun stocks is that the timber must be formed
straight and stay straight - even if its water content varies - so this
requires straight grain. Timber in handles and end-pieces can
have a more interesting figure. Density affects buoyancy, and that
needs to be taken into account.
Speargun handles are designed to be ergonomically matched to the
human hand. First, I cut them out with a coping saw, and then I
shape them using the same wood rasp I used more than half a century
ago. I do finer work with a Microplane, and then go on to sanding.
I undertake commissions from time to time, but they are not really
a commercial activity, especially not if you take time into account.
It's the challenge that interests me.

Pre-Cut Box Kit Project
Sliding Box
These boxes may be dovetailed on a dovetail jig such as the Leigh Jig,
or alternatively they may also be hand-dovetailed, box-jointed, mitred
or joined through other means. Just be aware that if you choose other
types of joinery for the project you might need to adjust the panel
sizes.
PACKAGE CONTENTS
In your pack of beautiful Western Queensland hardwood timber you
should have:
BOX COMPONENTS
2 of 200mm x 83mm x 8mm (long sides)
2 of 100mm x 83mm x 8mm (short sides)
1 of 192mm x 92mm x 8mm (neutral timber for base)
FRAME AND PANEL LID
1 of 168mm x 68mm x 8mm (decorative panel)
3 of 200mm x 20mm x 8mm (2 x long sides for frame,
and 1 to machine prior to cutting to size for smaller rails)
ALL THE TIMBER IS KILN DRIED, CUT TO SIZE AND SANDED TO #150 GRIT
Step 1: Layout
A feature of this timber is that it has been end matched, being sawn from the one piece. You
can therefore 'wrap' the timber around the box, matching the grain. Lay out your box and label
the components clearly. It is also wise to label the corresponding edges to avoid confusion.
Step 2: Dovetailing
**REFER TO YOUR DOVETAIL JIG INSTRUCTIONS ON HOW TO CUT DOVETAILS.**
On a Leigh® Jig, arrange your dovetail guide pins to suit the dimensions of the timber being
machined. The dimensions used in these kits will also suit the Carba-Tec EuroJig® without
modification. A backing piece is recommended to avoid chip-out when using dovetail jigs.
Masking tape applied to the timber where the dovetails will be cut prior to machining will also
help to prevent this. We recommend the use of CMT® Spiral Router bits for this task, as they
will provide the cleanest cut.
NOTE - If you are unfamiliar with your dovetail jig, it may be wise to machine some material
to the same dimensions as your box components and cut sample dovetails to check the fit
and the layout first.
Step 3: Cutting the Grooves for the Bottom and the Sliding Top
Dry assemble the box and hold it together with masking tape. Set up a 4mm slot cutter with a
bearing in a router table. The grooves should be 4mm deep. Run the groove around the inside
of the box, 4mm up from the edge, on both the top and bottom edges.
NOTE - This will leave a rounded cavity in the corners. If you don't have a router table you
can cut this groove on a tablesaw, with the box disassembled, but you may need to plug the
ends of the dovetails where the blade comes through.
Step 4: Rabbeting the Top and Bottom Plates
To fit the bottom panel into the rebate you will need to create a tongue around the edge of the
base board. A rabbeting bit is ideal. This tongue will need to be 4mm deep and a fraction
under 4mm thick so it will comfortably fit into the 4mm rebate.
If you have cut the rebate with the box assembled you will need to round the corners of your
base before you cut the tongue. A 10 cent piece is ideal for this.
Remember if you don't have a router table, the rabbet can be cut on a tablesaw on the same
setting you used for your rebate.

Step 5: Gluing Up
The panels should fit into the grooves about 4mm, leaving 1mm for movement. It is not necessary
to glue the panels in, as they need to float so they can move with the changes of atmosphere.
If you have routed the grooves with the box assembled as suggested (recommended), you will
need to round the edges of the panels before machining the moulds, to suit the rounded cavity.
A 10 cent piece is ideal to give you the correct curve.
Step 6: Making the Sliding Lid
The lid is a standard frame and loose panel construction. FIG. 9. It has a rabbet on 3 of its outer
sides that fit into the groove on the top of the body of the box. The 4th outer edge is not rebated.
SAFETY PRECAUTION- TO AVOID MACHINING VERY SMALL STOCK, WE PROVIDE THE
FRAME IN THREE LONG PIECES. THESE ARE ALL TO BE REBATED, BEFORE ONE OF
THE THREE IS CUT TO SIZE FOR THE SHORT RAILS OF THE FRAME. THE TENONS ARE
THEN HAND CUT
The frame is joined using an 8mm tenon on the ends of the rails. It fits into the 8mm rebate that
runs right around the inside of the frame that houses the panel.
A. Cutting the Grooves in the Frame
Set up your router table with a 4mm slot cutter. Set up the fence so the slot cutter has only a
small amount of clearance around it. Position the cutter height so the groove falls in the centre of
the workpiece. The depth of the groove needs to be 8mm. Cut all three rail sections.
B. Sizing the Rails & Cutting the Tenons
After cutting the groove, you will need to cut the rail material to size. Cut 2 x 60mm lengths from
one of the rail pieces for the short sides.
It is safest to cut the small tenons on the rails by hand. Mark them out with a marking gauge.
They are to be 4mm thick and 8mm deep and should run the full width of the 20mm wide rail.
We suggest a fine precision Japanese Dozuki saw such as a WDG-150 or a Z-7029. These
saws are perfect for fine accurate cuts such as is needed here.
If you want to cut the tenons on a tablesaw take care doing this as the rails are tiny and your
hands are close to the blade. Use a push block for support or better yet, make a jig to hold the
rails. It may seem like a lot of trouble to go to, but jigs can save your fingers and/or your sanity.
On a tablesaw set the height to 2mm (taken off each side), the thickness of the tongue (or
tenon) should be 4mm, and a depth/width of 8mm.
C. Moulding the Panel
To fit the top panel into the frame you will need to reduce the thickness of the edges down to
4mm by cutting a mould around the outside. A cove cutting bit, dish cutting/bowl and tray bit or
similar is required. (a CMT® 851-502-11 is ideal). The panel fits into the 8mm groove that has
been cut into the frame.
D. Gluing the Lid
Dry assemble the lid, make sure it all goes together well and the panel fits in to the frame.
When you are happy, glue the lid together, check for square and gently clamp it overnight. Don't
use too much clamping pressure which can distort the job, or too much glue. It can be hard removing
all the squeeze out from the corners.
E. Rabbeting the Lid
Fine sand the sliding lid. The last job is to run a rabbet around 3 sides to slide into the top
groove. This needs to be 4mm deep x 4mm wide. It can be done on a router table or a tablesaw.
If you have cut the box rebate on a router with the box assembled, you will need to round the
tongue to fit into the curved ends.Test the fit, the lid should slide easily and sit nicely into place.
Step 7: Finishing
Native western timbers take a variety of finishes very well and can be cabinet scraped or
sanded to a very fine level, bringing out the natural oil in the timber. The more effort you put into
this pre-finish routine, the greater the reward will be.
Organoil® products, particularly the Hard Burnishing Oil are highly compatible with these beautiful
timbers. ENJOY !!!

Pre-Cut Box Kit Project
Split Lid Box
These boxes may be dovetailed on a dovetail jig such as the Leigh Jig, or alternatively
they may also be hand-dovetailed, box-jointed, mitred or joined through
other rmeans. Just be aware that if you choose other types of joinery for the project
you might need to adjust the panel sizes.
PACKAGE CONTENTS
In your pack of beautiful Western Queensland Hardwood timber you should
have:
2 of 250mm x 108mm x 10mm (Sides)
2 of 150mm x 108mm x 10mm (Sides)
2 of 250mm x 140mm x 8mm (One Decorative for lid and one for base)
2 of 240mm x 70 mm x 2mm (Linings)
2 of 140mm x 70 mm x 2mm (Linings)
ALL THE TIMBER IS KILN DRIED, CUT TO SIZE AND SANDED TO #150 grit.
Step 1: Layout
A feature of this timber is that it has been end matched, being sawn from the one piece.
You can therefore 'wrap' the timber around the box, matching the grain. Lay out your box
and label the components clearly. It is also wise to label the corresponding edges to avoid
confusion.
Step 2: Dovetailing
**REFER TO YOUR DOVETAIL JIG INSTRUCTIONS ON HOW TO CUT DOVETAILS.**
On a Leigh® Jig, arrange your dovetail guide pins to suit the dimensions of the timber
being machined. The dimensions used in these kits will also suit the Carba-Tec EuroJig®
without modification. A backing piece is recommended to avoid chip-out when using dovetail
jigs. Masking tape applied to the timber where the dovetails will be cut prior to machining
will also help to prevent this. We recommend the use of CMT® spiral router bits for
this task, as they will provide the cleanest cut.
NOTE - If you are unfamiliar with your dovetail jig, it may be wise to machine some material
to the same dimensions as your box components and cut sample dovetails to check
the fit and the layout first.
NOTE - This box is dovetailed and glued before the lid is cut off. You will therefore need to
make the dovetail pin you are going to cut through, wider, by the same amount as the kerf
of your sawblade or router bit. This will create uniform pin sizing overall. *This cannot be
done on fixed template dovetail jigs such as the EuroJig®.*
Step 3: Cutting the Grooves for the Top and Bottom
Dry assemble the box and hold it together with masking tape. Set up a 4mm slot cutter
with a bearing in a router table. You will want a depth of cut of about 5mm. Run your
groove around the inside of the box top and bottom while it is assembled, leaving a space
of about 5mm from the edge.
NOTE - This will leave a rounded cavity in the corners. If you don't have a router table you
can cut this groove on a tablesaw, with the box disassembled, but you may need to plug
the ends of the dovetails where the blade comes through.
Step 4: Rabbeting the Top and Bottom Plates
To fit the top and bottom panels into the grooves you will need to reduce the thickness of
the edge down to 4mm by cutting a mould around the outside of the top panel, using a
cove cutting bit, dish cutting/bowl & tray bit or similar (CMT 851-502-11 is ideal). For the
bottom panel a rabbeting bit can be used to create a tongue around the edge of the base.
You may also use the same cutting bit as per the top if desired.

The panels should fit into the grooves about 4mm, leaving 1mm for movement. It is not
necessary to glue the panels in, as they need to float so they can move with the changes
of atmosphere.
If you have routed the grooves with the box assembled as suggested (recommended),
you will need to round the edges of the panels before machining the moulds, to suit the
rounded cavity. A 10 cent piece is ideal to give you the correct curve.
It is best to do most of the sanding of the top and bottom panels and the inside faces of
the box panels before assembly. Next, do a dry test fit of all components. When happy
with the fit, glue and assemble the box. Take care not to use too much glue. Excessive
squeeze out will leave a mark under your finish, and it is not easy to wipe the excess off
the inside of your box. We suggest using Titebond® Original wood glue as it creates a
very strong joint, sands well and cleans up with water.
Once the box is dry, do most of your external sanding before you cut the lid off. You may
need to plane or sand the excess off the ends of the dovetails. This will seal the end grain
beautifully.
Step 5. Cutting off the Lid
Make your cut through the wider pin if your design has included this feature. This can be
done on the tablesaw with the blade set so it just cuts through the thickness of the material.
It can also be cut on the router table with a very fine straight cutter or spiral bit (recommended).
The spiral bit will give a planed finish to the edges and reduce chipping. A
downcut spiral bit will give the least chipping out on the outside surface of the box. You will
need to use a fence on the router table to give you a straight line and support. Whether
you are cutting the lid off on a tablesaw or a router table, take care when cutting the fourth
side as there may be movement in the lid.
Step 6. Fitting the Lining
The lining is designed to fit into the inside of the box and create a lip to support the box
lid. Sand the lining before gluing. The inside of the box should already have been sanded.
The linings can be mitred or butt joined to fit into the box. Note that they may require final
trimming to size. Fix in place with a small amount of glue. This should create a very neat
fitting for the box lid.
Step 7. Finishing
Native western timbers take finishes very well and can be cabinet scraped or sanded to a
very fine level, bringing out the natural oil in the timber. The more effort you put into this
the greater the reward will be. Finish choice for the box is purely a personal preference,
however oil and wax gives a beautiful hand rubbed lustre to the dense nature of Western
Hardwoods.
Organoil products are perfect for the job, especially the Hard Burnishing Oil. ENJOY!!

TRI-TRA001B Router Review
Triton has directly addressed the difficulties in using a product
upside down that has been primarily designed to be
used right side up. The Triton TRI-TRA001B Router fulfils its
design brief and really adds something special to your workshop.I
use a shop-made router table to cut a lot of my joinery
but I have never been entirely happy with any of the
routers that I have fitted to it. They were all good quality,
but they were primarily designed to be used upright or handheld.
Using them in a table always involved a good deal of
hassle when changing bits and when precision was needed
in the set-up of particular cutters. However, you work with
what you have and make allowances for its shortcomings.
Until now!
I have been testing the Triton TRI-TRA001B in the Triton
Router Table System and am quite in awe of its features. I
can't believe what I have been missing out on. It is obviously
designed primarily to be used in a router table and
solves most of the age-old problems associated with this. To
begin with, the cooling vents are side-mounted to reduce
the amount of sawdust that falls into the powerful 2400
watts (3-1/4hp) motor. There is no sign of the motor wavering
at all under load. It has a soft start and electronic
variable speed that ranges between 8,000-21,000 RPM.
This means router bits of all sizes can be safely used. It's
important to remember that large diameter router bits such
as panel raising bits or lock mitre bits should always be
used in a router table and on a slower speed setting. There
are two removable collets (one 1/4" and one 1/4"), so
there is no need to use spacer collets unless you want to
use 8mm router bits such as Leigh make.
One of the best features of the TRI-TRA001B is its Dual
Mode operation. A push of a button allows you to operate it
as a standard plunge router when using it hand-held, or a
fixed base router with a hand cranked rack and pinion height
adjustment when table mounted. The plunge spring can be
easily removed to allow effortless and smooth height adjustment
either with a crank handle extension arm that
comes through the table top for easy access or with the
micro-adjust knob.
Gone are the days of having to be a contortionist to set your
router bit to the correct height. Changing router bits couldn't
be easier. When the crank handle is turned all the way
home a spindle lock is engaged. The router collet protrudes
through the top allowing easy access with the spanner to
change the bits. There is an added safety feature that ensures
the spindle lock can only be engaged when the safety
cover is over the switch and this will only work when the
router is switched off. This safety feature also prevents the
router from being switched back on while the spindle is
locked. Because spanner access is from the base and not
the side of the router there is a highly effective blade guard
system and dust extraction outlet, not just the token attempt
that you often see that still needs to allow side access.
This does not however, obscure visibility when using
the router in an upright position.
The fence is a triumph although on first sight this may not
be the impression that one gets. It consists of two components,
a large plate that is attached to the router base plate
via two spring-loaded pins that slide positively into keyhole
slots. The fence itself connects to this plate. What I like a
lot about this system is the enormous amount of surface
area and support it gives you. It is perfect for large area
hand-held work such as cutting rebates, trenches or sliding
dovetails in panels. The weight of the router works with you
to keep it stable and flat and the soft start reduces the
chance of kickback or catching the material. The plate also
gives you a nice safe position to place your hand for stabilising
and supporting your router when working close to an
edge.
Being a router of considerable size and weight, the Triton
TRI-TRA001B may prove to be a little heavy for some dovetail
jigs that require you to hand hold it and move it across
the top the comb. If you are using a Leigh jig, the Vacuum
and Router Support will compensate for the weight and size,
giving you much more stability. The KL-15 dovetail jig would
be best used upside down on your router table as the comb
is fairly narrow. If you are going to fit this router to a router
table, consider going for the Triton Precision Router Table
System.
Go to www.carbatec.com.au to see our whole range of Triton
products as well as pricing.

RTA 300 Router Table Review
The RTA 300 Router Table can be mounted onto the Triton
Work Cente (either the current model series 2000 or the
older MK3) or fitted with the Triton Router Table Stand. It
comes in flat pack form for self-assembly. It really is a good
idea to use the manual and read it carefully. Give yourself a
couple of hours to do it properly, any shortcuts you take will
come back to haunt you. I would suggest using a straight
edge to align the top plates and allow for the fact that you
may need to do a bit of packing to achieve a flat surface.
The Triton router is easily fitted using the same springloaded
pins that hold the fence in place. There is also provision
to fit other brands of router using the clamps
supplied.
There are several add-on accessories that can be purchased
to fit onto the Triton Router Table. They include Triton's Biscuit
Jointer System, as well as a Finger Joint Kit and a Jigsaw
Kit. These are all designed to fit onto the router table
and can be purchased separately at any time. Standard
equipment supplied with the router table includes; side and
downward pressure fingers and a two-piece split fence with
a height adjustable guarding with a dust port. For planing
cuts there are 1/2mm and 1mm shims that slide behind
the outfeed fence.
I really like the way that every accessory has a home on the
router table so there is little chance of losing them so long
as they are put back. The planing shims slide neatly onto
their storage pegs behind the fence. There are also removable
micro-adjust fittings that lock into slots behind each
side of the fence.
The MDF lockable sled houses an adjustable fence and
mitre gauge. The sled can be used in a fixed position or as
a small sliding table. A sacrificial fence added to the mitre
gauge is great for tricky end-grain work.
For freehanding shaped material, the fence can be removed
and stored on hooks at the side. The clear cutter guard
comes off the fence and fits directly onto the table. The
edge of this guard acts as an infeed pin for leading into cuts
to prevent the bit from grabbing.
The RTA 300 Router Table combined with the Triton Router
gives you a very effective workstation capable of performing
just about all routing operations with ease and safety. There
is enormous scope to add other accessories and increase
the range of what you can do.
As long as you take care with assembly and ensure all the
plates line up you will achieve many years of happy woodworking.
To existing Triton users I am not telling you anything you
don't already know, but for those of us that have been a bit
slower to pick up on it, take a closer look at this Australian
tradition because it's well worth it.
Go to www.carbatec.com.au to see our whole range of Triton
products as well as pricing.

Brisbane Carba-Tec ® staff member Andy Lucas explains why he loves the Excalibur scroll saw.
The scroll saw is a very versatile machine to include in your workshop kit. The range of tasks it can handle is limited only by your imagination,
whether your interest is in art, craft, toymaking, intarsia or other aspects of woodworking.There are many publications available to guide you
through the variety of craft and hobby projects that may be of interest. Carba-Tec stock a wide range of instruction and pattern books for those
just starting out as well as experienced scrollers. Some newsagencies and internet sites also stock magazines and patterns that you can buy
or download.
Just as there are a wide variety of tasks that can be handled by scroll saws, there are also a great variety of models and prices to consider.
Your first step should be to identify the sort of work you will be doing, then you'll be able to select the machine that covers your needs and fits
your budget. Entry level machines primarily allow external cutting with pinned blades. These are fine for basic projects, and prices for these
machines start around $140. However, if you intend to do finer detail work with internal cutting you will need to look for a machine that uses
pinless blades, preferably a machine that allows easy fitting and quick release of the blades.
I have used a wide variety of machines over the past eight years with mixed levels of success and frustration. Without a doubt, when you are
working on projects with multiple fine internal cuts, blade release from the bottom clamp and the ability to raise the upper arm and blade out
of each cut makes scrolling a much more enjoyable hobby. The Excalibur scroll saw has this feature and many more that make it, in my opinion,
the best machine available on the market.
Other features include:
Quick blade changes with finger operated blade clamps, no tools required.
Head tilts 45° left and right, tilting the blade, not the table, keeping the workpiece level for better control, more accurate cuts and
safer usage.
Easy access speed and tension controls.
Organised blade storage on base.
Onboard dust blower.
Positive stops at common angles.
I had the pleasure of demonstrating the Excalibur at last November's "Hands On" exhibition in Brisbane. The aim was to focus on getting new
users to try the machine. We had a series of basic jigsaw patterns copied onto 19mm radiata pine board pieces. After a brief introduction to
safety and operating procedures, a number of volunteers tested the machine and were impressed with the ease of operation. Most kept their
completed project as a souvenir of their experience.
The Excalibur scroll saw is an easy machine to use and to gain confidence with. There is no vibration or blade wobble as occurs with some of
the lighter machines. The oblong, heavy-duty steel table surface supports your workpiece, making it easy to manipulate the most complex of
cuts and designs - whether you are using a standard profile blade or a spiral profile cutting blade.
Other points to consider when you start your scrolling include blade selection to suit the task at hand, speed range to suit the material being
cut, blade tension to maintain cut direction control and also feed rate of the material into the cutting blade. These issues are covered in many
of the scrolling publications and also become apparent with continued practice and projects.
Blade selection is made easier with the extensive range of Olson® scroll saw blades that Carba-Tec stocks. Each blade
pack has the manufacturer's recommendation for specified use of the blade profile, in particular
its suitability for use with timber, MDF, brass or aluminium sheet, etc.
Excalibur scroll saws come in two different sizes - a 21" and a 30" model. I encourage
you to enter the wonderful world of scrolling, and highly recommend the Excalibur as
the machine to give you the most satisfaction and success.
Go to www.carbatec.com.au to see our range of products and pricing
Focus Project:
Scroll Saw Family
Portrait, go to
Focus issue
December 2010