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The Maritime Provinces - Audley Travel

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<strong>The</strong> <strong>Maritime</strong> <strong>Provinces</strong><br />

<strong>The</strong> <strong>Maritime</strong> <strong>Provinces</strong> are where<br />

Canada first met the wider world.<br />

<strong>The</strong> Vikings are known to have visited in<br />

the 8th century; British contact began in the<br />

late 15th century with the red-faced Beothuk<br />

tribes, while French Acadian settlers<br />

arrived in 1604. Later, the 1867 Act of<br />

Confederation, uniting several provinces as<br />

the Dominion of Canada, was signed in<br />

Prince Edward Island. <strong>The</strong> region is awash<br />

with fascinating sites of historical significance.<br />

It is also magnificently diverse in its scenery,<br />

flora and fauna. In the fjords of Gros Morne<br />

National Park, Newfoundland has perhaps<br />

some of the most dramatic scenery east of the<br />

Rockies, made even more striking by the<br />

huge icebergs that drift down the east coast<br />

on the Labrador Current. New Brunswick is<br />

home to the idyllic pastoral lands of Acadia,<br />

world-beating salmon fishing on the<br />

Mirimichi River and the ruggedly beautiful<br />

Bay of Fundy. Sleepy Prince Edward Island<br />

inspired ‘Anne of Green Gables’ and even<br />

now is a land of green fields, white beaches<br />

and rich red soils. Nova Scotia, with its<br />

brightly coloured fishing villages, stacked<br />

lobster pots and strong maritime history still<br />

embodies the romance of the sea more than<br />

any other province.<br />

66


Nova Scotia<br />

Nova Scotia is a land of lobsters and<br />

lighthouses: maritime influences dominate this<br />

pretty, historic peninsula. On the northern tip<br />

of the province is Cape Breton Island and the<br />

Cabot Trail, one of North America’s most<br />

dramatically beautiful coastal roads, that<br />

passes through Acadian settlements where<br />

Celtic folk music still forms a living link with<br />

the Europe of old. Cape Breton has been called<br />

the most scenic island in the world and was<br />

also famously chosen by Marconi for his first<br />

trans-Atlantic broadcast. Highlights include<br />

the 18th century French fortress at<br />

Louisbourg, Kejimkujik National Park, the<br />

UNESCO World Heritage Site at Lunenburg<br />

and the much-photographed Peggy’s Cove.<br />

Digby<br />

Bay of Fundy<br />

Kejimkujik<br />

National Park<br />

Annapolis<br />

Royal<br />

Tatamagouche<br />

Amherst<br />

Minas<br />

Basin<br />

Wolfville<br />

Lunenburg<br />

Truro<br />

NOVA SCOTIA<br />

HALIFAX<br />

Pictou<br />

Atlantic Ocean<br />

Port<br />

Hawkesbury<br />

Baddeck<br />

Liscomb Mills<br />

Cape<br />

Breton<br />

Island<br />

Bras<br />

d’Or<br />

Lake<br />

Charlos Cove<br />

0 37 miles<br />

0 60 kilometres<br />

Cape Breton Highlands<br />

National Park<br />

Ingonish<br />

Sydney Mines<br />

Louisbourg<br />

Halifax<br />

<strong>The</strong> capital of Nova Scotia, Halifax is the largest<br />

city in the Atlantic provinces and set on the<br />

world’s second-largest natural harbour: even<br />

now it is steeped in sea-faring history and naval<br />

tradition. <strong>The</strong> compact city centre, dominated by<br />

the Citadel and its adjacent clock tower, is easy<br />

to navigate on foot. Along the waterfront you’ll<br />

find plenty of excellent seafood restaurants and<br />

several micro-breweries as well as the Historic<br />

Properties, a collection of boutique shops in<br />

restored maritime warehouses. <strong>The</strong> harbour is<br />

always busy with ferries that ply across to<br />

Dartmouth on the other side, and during the<br />

summer season the schooner Bluenose II, a<br />

symbol of the province, is often moored here.<br />

In 1912 the Titanic sank to the east of here and<br />

memorabilia from the wreck is on display at the<br />

city’s superb <strong>Maritime</strong> Museum of the Atlantic,<br />

along with a collection of brightly-coloured ships’<br />

figureheads. Many local cemeteries bear testimony<br />

to the disaster but these days Halifax is very<br />

much a living society, with plenty of live music<br />

bars and a thriving theatre scene.<br />

Halifax Historic Properties<br />

Yarmouth<br />

Argyle Street, Halifax<br />

HALLIBURTON HOUSE,<br />

HALIFAX<br />

<strong>The</strong> Halliburton, located in downtown Halifax,<br />

consists of a trio of heritage town houses that<br />

have been joined to provide 29 individually<br />

appointed guest rooms. Each room is unique<br />

in size, layout and décor - some have wood<br />

burning fireplaces whilst others have a private<br />

balcony overlooking the garden courtyard. A<br />

complimentary buffet breakfast is included. <strong>The</strong><br />

shops, restaurants and sights of Halifax are just<br />

a short walk away.<br />

TALL SHIP SILVA<br />

A traditional sailing ship built in 1939, Tall Ship<br />

Silva provides a chance to experience this<br />

maritime city from the sea. From the deck you<br />

can take in the glorious views of the seafront,<br />

with miles of shoreline guarded by Georges Island<br />

and its graceful lighthouse, while watching out for<br />

whales, harbour seals and seabirds. You can also<br />

take the opportunity to become part of the crew:<br />

taking the helm, learning navigation and helping<br />

raise and furl the sails. Carrying up to 150<br />

passengers, the ship has been completely<br />

re-furbished to offer a licensed bar and plenty<br />

of indoor and outdoor seating.<br />

Halifax harbour sailing<br />

Nova Scotia: Canada<br />

Telephone: 01993 838 700<br />

67


Lunenburg waterfront<br />

Lunenburg<br />

Lunenburg is one of Nova Scotia’s most historic<br />

towns, captivating visitors with its colourful<br />

waterfront, narrow streets and old wooden<br />

buildings. This pretty town, lying on a narrow<br />

peninsula, was established by the British in 1753<br />

as their first and only colonial settlement in Nova<br />

Scotia outside Halifax. <strong>The</strong> early settlers, from<br />

various parts of Europe, created a vibrant and<br />

stable economy built on farming, fishing, ship<br />

building and ocean-based commerce. Even now<br />

Lunenburg combines a healthy economy with a<br />

rich historical legacy, manifesting itself in brightlypainted<br />

wooden buildings that clamber up from<br />

the main harbour, ringed by an eclectic mix of<br />

old wooden churches and mansions. Today the<br />

town is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and its<br />

principal attraction is the Fisheries Museum of<br />

the Atlantic which houses a great aquarium, the<br />

record-breaking schooner Bluenose, and <strong>The</strong>resa<br />

E. Connor, the last salt-bank schooner to fish<br />

from Lunenburg. Visitors can relive past glories<br />

by sailing on Bluenose II, a replica of the original<br />

vessel. <strong>The</strong>re are some excellent craft shops,<br />

art galleries and restaurants here: be sure to try<br />

the two local specialities, Solomon Grundy –<br />

marinated herrings with sour cream – and<br />

Lunenburg Sausage.<br />

LUNENBURG ARMS HOTEL AND SPA<br />

<strong>The</strong> Lunenburg Arms Hotel and Spa is a boutique<br />

hotel with just 24 guest rooms located in the<br />

historic heart of the old town of Lunenburg.<br />

<strong>The</strong> property is surrounded by art shops and<br />

restaurants and is just a stone’s throw from the<br />

superb Fisheries Museum of the Atlantic. Guest<br />

rooms are spacious, with wide wooden<br />

floorboards, king or queen beds, a sofa, armchairs<br />

and many have harbour views. <strong>The</strong>re is a high<br />

quality spa, a fine dining restaurant and a popular<br />

bar with outside seating.<br />

Lunenburg Arms Hotel<br />

Buoys hanging from a lobster pot<br />

Kejimkujik National Park<br />

A visit to this magnificent tract of rolling<br />

wilderness is a superb way to experience the<br />

peace and natural beauty of southern Nova<br />

Scotia. Lush forests shade rivers and lakes,<br />

forming a diverse habitat for porcupines,<br />

white-tailed deer, turtles and beavers. <strong>The</strong> park<br />

has lovely walking trails and canoe routes and in<br />

the southeast coastal part you can find the rare<br />

piping plover amongst tidal flats, lagoons and<br />

wild headlands.<br />

68


Lighthouses and<br />

Lobsters Trail<br />

<strong>The</strong> close proximity of the <strong>Maritime</strong> <strong>Provinces</strong><br />

allows visitors to dip into the diversity that makes<br />

each region so unique. This lovely itinerary<br />

enables you to visit the highlights of Canada’s<br />

spell-binding Atlantic sea-board.<br />

Kejimkujik National Park<br />

Day 1<br />

Day 2<br />

Day 3<br />

Day 4<br />

Day 5<br />

Day 6<br />

Day 7<br />

Day 8<br />

Day 9<br />

Day 10<br />

Arrive in Halifax for a two night stay.<br />

<strong>The</strong> day is yours to explore this<br />

delightful city for yourself.<br />

Drive south along the rugged<br />

Atlantic coast to Lunenburg.<br />

Spend a full day exploring this<br />

charming old fishing port.<br />

Head inland to Kejimkujik National<br />

Park before continuing to Annapolis<br />

Royal for a two night stay.<br />

Enjoy a full day exploring the<br />

Annapolis Valley.<br />

Take the ferry from Digby across the<br />

Bay of Fundy to Saint John.<br />

A day free to explore Saint John.<br />

Drive today through Fundy National<br />

Park to the Hopewell Rocks.<br />

Spend a full day in Fundy National<br />

Park marvelling at the tides that<br />

sweep the bay.<br />

Queen Anne Inn<br />

Annapolis Royal<br />

Annapolis Royal, named after Queen Anne, is an<br />

historic town of splendid Victorian mansions nestled<br />

between the Annapolis and Allain rivers. Originally<br />

inhabited by a strong Mi’kmaq community, in 1605<br />

the area was settled by some of the first Europeans:<br />

it was controlled by France until peninsula Nova<br />

Scotia was handed over to the British by the treaty<br />

of Utrecht in 1713. Today there are substantial<br />

remains of 18th century Fort Anne with lovely river<br />

views. Other sights include the Bay of Fundy, just<br />

ten kilometres away, the Historic Gardens, Port<br />

Royal National Historic Site and the apple orchards<br />

of the fertile Annapolis Valley.<br />

QUEEN ANNE INN,<br />

ANNAPOLIS ROYAL<br />

<strong>The</strong> Queen Anne Inn is one of our favourite bed<br />

and breakfast properties, located on the Evangeline<br />

Trail in Annapolis Royal. <strong>The</strong> house was fully<br />

restored in 1989 with beautifully crafted ash, oak,<br />

and mahogany. <strong>The</strong> grand staircase takes you to<br />

the well-appointed guest rooms, furnished with<br />

period antiques. <strong>The</strong>re are ten rooms in the main<br />

inn and four rooms in the Carriage House located<br />

directly behind. All rooms have air conditioning,<br />

satellite television, custom-made feather beds and<br />

some also have Jacuzzi baths. <strong>The</strong> Queen Anne is<br />

famous for its three-course breakfasts and also<br />

offers excellent fine dining in the evenings.<br />

Blomidon Inn<br />

Wolfville<br />

Wolfville lies on the edge of the Bay of Fundy<br />

amidst distinctive tidal mud flats which are home<br />

to hundreds of herons and waders. This affluent<br />

little town has many lovely old Victorian buildings<br />

and is home to Acadia University. Visitors should<br />

not miss Robie Tufts Nature Centre where, on<br />

summer evenings, enormous flocks of chimney<br />

swifts give amazing aerobatic performances before<br />

swooping en masse to roost for the night. <strong>The</strong><br />

rugged nearby peninsulas of Capes Blomidon and<br />

Split provide spectacular views and wonderful<br />

coastal walking trails.<br />

BLOMIDON INN,<br />

WOLFVILLE<br />

Set on Main Street in the heart of Wolfville,<br />

the Blomidon Inn is a 19th century sea captain’s<br />

mansion which has been tastefully restored to<br />

offer 29 guest rooms. Each is individually<br />

decorated and furnished with period antiques.<br />

Continental breakfast and afternoon tea is<br />

complimentary, while in the evenings the Laceby<br />

family is proud to offer gourmet dining and an<br />

award-winning wine list. Outside, the Victorianinspired<br />

gardens are filled with rhododendrons,<br />

azaleas, roses and lupins.<br />

Day 11<br />

Day 12<br />

Day 13<br />

Day 14<br />

Day 15<br />

Day 16<br />

Day 17<br />

Day 18<br />

Day 19<br />

Day 20<br />

Day 21<br />

Cross the Confederation Bridge to<br />

Prince Edward Island for a two night<br />

stay in Charlottetown.<br />

PEI’s delightful little capital is yours<br />

to explore.<br />

Head to Spry Point for a two<br />

night stay.<br />

Enjoy a day at leisure at Spry Point.<br />

Take the ferry to Nova Scotia;<br />

continue your drive to Port<br />

Hawkesbury for an overnight stay.<br />

Enjoy a wonderfully scenic drive<br />

along the Cabot Trail.<br />

Explore the magnificent scenery<br />

of Cape Breton Highlands<br />

National Park.<br />

Today drive southeast to Louisbourg.<br />

Immerse yourself in the history of<br />

18th century France at the fortress<br />

of Louisbourg.<br />

Head to Charlos Cove on Nova<br />

Scotia’s Atlantic Coast.<br />

Drive along the rugged Atlantic<br />

coast to end your tour in Halifax.<br />

Nova Scotia: Canada<br />

Telephone: 01993 838 700<br />

69


70<br />

<strong>The</strong> Cabot Trail<br />

Liscomb Mills<br />

<strong>The</strong> Liscomb region of Nova Scotia’s Atlantic<br />

coast is one of the wildest and most rugged<br />

parts of the province. <strong>The</strong> Ice Age left a diverse<br />

landscape of drumlin fields, erratic boulders and<br />

the land of wild rivers and lakes that is seen<br />

today. Spruce forests emerge from channel fens<br />

and lakeshore swamps, whilst rich hardwoods<br />

and mixed forest are wedged between rolling<br />

hills and glacial deposits. This is superb hiking and<br />

wildlife country where the salty tang of the sea<br />

is never far away.<br />

Liscombe Lodge<br />

LISCOMBE LODGE<br />

Nestled amongst the evergreens on Marina Drive,<br />

Liscombe Lodge enjoys a beautiful river-side setting.<br />

Wake to the sounds of early morning birdsong and<br />

be lulled to sleep by the mystical call of the loon -<br />

this is life at Liscombe Lodge. Each of the 30 guest<br />

bedrooms in the main lodge has a river view and<br />

a private balcony, while further accommodation is<br />

provided by a selection of cottages and chalets in<br />

the grounds. Days can be spent canoeing or taking<br />

boat trips on the Liscomb River while nature trails<br />

lead to local beauty spots and nearby Sherbrooke<br />

Village which is a living museum of life in the 1800s.<br />

After activities, unwind on the veranda with views<br />

of kingfishers, ospreys and eagles while the house<br />

speciality, planked salmon, is prepared.<br />

SEAWIND LANDING,<br />

CHARLOS COVE<br />

This romantic seaside inn has a true flavour of<br />

ocean living at its finest. <strong>The</strong> living room, library,<br />

and music room are tastefully furnished with<br />

antiques and fine art whilst the dining room offers<br />

gourmet meals and an extensive wine cellar. Most<br />

of the rooms have balconies right on the ocean,<br />

filled with the sounds of the waves. <strong>The</strong> inn<br />

keepers, Lorraine and Jim Colvin, invite you to<br />

join them on their ten metre sailing sloop to<br />

observe marine wildlife amongst the Barrier<br />

Islands, and lunch – or even breakfast – can<br />

be provided on board.<br />

Acadian colours<br />

Charlos Cove<br />

<strong>The</strong> small village of Charlos Cove lies on the<br />

Atlantic coast of Nova Scotia near Cape Breton<br />

Island. Many Acadians settled here at the end of<br />

the 18th century and several early 19th century<br />

buildings remain. <strong>The</strong> area has many secluded<br />

sandy beaches and extensive peaceful coastal<br />

walking trails with stunning ocean views.<br />

Seawind Landing


Treasures of Nova Scotia<br />

Nova Scotia captures the essence of coastal<br />

Canada and this comprehensive tour takes you<br />

from the wild and sea-battered Atlantic coast to<br />

the sheltered waters of the Northumberland<br />

Strait. ‘New Scotland’, is a treasure chest<br />

of delights.<br />

Day 1<br />

Collect your hire car in Halifax and<br />

head inland to the small university<br />

town of Wolfville.<br />

Explore this lovely small town with<br />

its avenues of elm trees and the<br />

old Acadian villages around the<br />

Minas Basin.<br />

Day 2<br />

Highland dancers<br />

Louisbourg Fortress<br />

Day 3<br />

Day 4<br />

<strong>Travel</strong> through the fertile Annapolis<br />

Valley to the historic town of<br />

Annapolis Royal.<br />

Enjoy a day exploring the town with<br />

its grand old houses and nearby<br />

orchards and farmers’ markets.<br />

Day 5<br />

Drive past Kejimkujik National Park<br />

and onwards to Lunenburg.<br />

Day 6<br />

Wander at leisure around the old<br />

fishing village of Lunenburg.<br />

Day 7<br />

Pass through the heart of Nova<br />

Scotia via Halifax and Truro to the<br />

little town of Tatamagouche.<br />

Keltic Lodge<br />

Louisbourg Harbour Inn<br />

Day 8<br />

Spend a day exploring the small<br />

charming towns along the<br />

Northumberland Strait.<br />

Cape Breton Highlands<br />

National Park and<br />

the Cabot Trail<br />

This park was established in 1936 when the<br />

government set aside 950 square kilometres of<br />

the northern tip of Cape Breton Island to protect<br />

some of Canada’s most famous scenery, a land<br />

of mountains, forest wilderness, windswept<br />

coastal beauty and charming fishing villages.<br />

<strong>The</strong> best-known feature of the park is the Cabot<br />

Trail that draws thousands of visitors every year<br />

and is renowned for being one of the most<br />

spectacular coastal drives in North America.<br />

Visitors stay on the outskirts of the park at<br />

Ingonish, a collection of small villages around<br />

two bays on the southeast corner.<br />

Louisbourg<br />

Famed for its fortress, Louisbourg offers summer<br />

visitors a taste of life in 1744 as costumed<br />

animators re-enact history. Recognising the<br />

economic and military potential of the harbour<br />

and fishery, Louis XIV secured it for France in<br />

1713 by constructing a well-fortified, walled city.<br />

During the 18th century Louisbourg was the third<br />

busiest seaport on the American continent but<br />

was successfully besieged by New England troops<br />

in 1745 and by British troops in 1758. In the<br />

1960s reconstruction began on the fortress ruins,<br />

and it became the largest project of its kind in<br />

North America. Today it is the flagship of Parks<br />

Canada’s restored properties. <strong>The</strong> town has a<br />

theatre and railway museum and is surrounded<br />

by sandy beaches.<br />

Day 9<br />

Day 10<br />

Day 11<br />

Day 12<br />

Day 13<br />

Day 14<br />

Day 15<br />

Drive eastwards to Port Hawkesbury<br />

at the southern tip of Cape Breton<br />

Island for your overnight stay.<br />

<strong>Travel</strong> along the beautiful Cabot<br />

Trail to Cape Breton Highlands<br />

National Park.<br />

Take a full day to enjoy the National<br />

Park, with its many hiking trails and<br />

wonderful ocean vistas.<br />

Head through St. Ann’s and North<br />

Sydney to Louisbourg.<br />

Explore the reconstructed former<br />

French fortress of Louisbourg.<br />

Today you cross the Canso<br />

Causeway and head around<br />

Chedabucto Bay to Charlos Cove.<br />

Heading south, arrive at Liscomb<br />

for your overnight stay.<br />

KELTIC LODGE, INGONISH BEACH<br />

High on a cliff overlooking the Atlantic Ocean,<br />

Keltic Lodge commands magnificent views of<br />

Cape Breton Highlands National Park and Cape<br />

Smokey. Accommodation is in the main lodge,<br />

the Inn at Keltic or one of the cottages: at each<br />

your comfort is assured. <strong>The</strong>re is a choice of<br />

restaurants and nightly entertainment, a tennis<br />

court and heated outdoor swimming pool. From<br />

here you can also tour the world-famous Cabot<br />

Trail, walk along wilderness trails through ancient<br />

forests, play golf on the Highland Links course or<br />

take a boat trip out to see whales.<br />

LOUISBOURG HARBOUR INN<br />

This century-old sea captain’s house is situated<br />

on the harbour, just off Main Street and next<br />

to a working fishing wharf and the Louisbourg<br />

Playhouse. <strong>The</strong>re are eight beautifully decorated<br />

guest rooms, six of which overlook the historic<br />

harbour. Each has a queen bed, en suite<br />

bathroom, hardwood floors and high ceilings.<br />

A balcony for guests overlooks the water with<br />

excellent views of the fishing boats, wharves and<br />

the fortress with the ocean beyond.<br />

Day 16<br />

Continue your drive south to Halifax<br />

where your tour ends upon arrival.<br />

Nova Scotia: Canada<br />

Telephone: 01993 838 700<br />

71


<strong>The</strong> Hopewell Rocks at low tide<br />

New Brunswick<br />

New Brunswick is renowned for being home<br />

to the Bay of Fundy, washed each day by the<br />

world’s highest tides. Along this dramatic<br />

coastline you will also find Fundy National<br />

Park, the Hopewell Rocks, the vibrant city of<br />

Saint John, and charming Passamaquoddy<br />

Bay. <strong>The</strong> nearby islands of Grand Manan and<br />

Campobello are enchanting retreats from the<br />

modern world. <strong>The</strong> provincial capital is<br />

Fredericton, a city of genteel villas and art<br />

galleries whilst the pretty nearby village of<br />

Gagetown is famed for its old riverside houses.<br />

To the east are the wonderful sand dunes and<br />

lagoons of Kouchibouguac National Park and<br />

the world-famous salmon fishing river, the<br />

Mirimichi. <strong>The</strong> Caraquet region is home to<br />

many Acadian settlers and is an area where<br />

the 20th century has yet to gain a foothold.<br />

Other attractions include the leafy resort<br />

town of St. Andrews, Tidal Bore Park and<br />

Magnetic Hill in Moncton, Grand Falls<br />

Gorge and Fort Beausejour historic site.<br />

<strong>The</strong> Bay of Fundy<br />

Home to the highest tides in the world, the Bay<br />

of Fundy stretches 270 kilometres between the<br />

provinces of New Brunswick and Nova Scotia.<br />

Each day 100 billion tonnes of seawater flows in<br />

and out of the bay during each tide cycle – more<br />

than the combined flow of all the world’s<br />

freshwater rivers. Fundy National Park, bordering<br />

the bay, has wild and rugged sea cliffs, tidal mud<br />

flats and forested hills which are home to<br />

exhilarating walking trails. East of here lies the<br />

dramatic Cape Enrage whilst further on at the<br />

Hopewell Rocks you can walk on the ocean<br />

floor during low tide and kayak around the<br />

rocks when the tide is in.<br />

FLORENTINE MANOR, FUNDY<br />

NATIONAL PARK<br />

A warm maritime welcome awaits you at this<br />

heritage inn, built in the 1860s by a local<br />

shipbuilder on the pristine coast of the Bay of<br />

Fundy. <strong>The</strong>re are just nine guest bedrooms,<br />

furnished with antiques and hand-made quilts.<br />

Breakfast is served in the Victorian dining room<br />

whilst the sitting room has a television and a<br />

selection of books making it the perfect place to<br />

meet your fellow guests. Miles of beaches, hiking<br />

trails, bird watching, golfing and horse riding are<br />

all within easy reach.<br />

Saint John<br />

Saint John (not St. John and not to be confused<br />

with St. John’s, Newfoundland) is situated on the<br />

south coast of New Brunswick on the edge of the<br />

Bay of Fundy. Following a devastating fire in 1877,<br />

much of the town was re-built and many of the<br />

Victorian buildings have since been lovingly<br />

restored, especially along Prince William Street.<br />

Two principal attractions are the New Brunswick<br />

Museum and the Reversing Falls Rapids which is a<br />

good place to see the effects of the Fundy tides.<br />

Fundy National Park is nearby, where visitors can<br />

marvel at the highest tides in the world. <strong>The</strong> city<br />

also offers some great restaurants and pubs<br />

where seafood is a frequent highlight.<br />

LES CHALETS DU HAVRE, NEAR<br />

KOUCHIBOUGUAC NATIONAL PARK<br />

Situated in Richibucto, close to Kouchibouguac<br />

National Park, les Chalets du Havre enjoy a<br />

magnificent coastal setting. <strong>The</strong>re are 24 single and<br />

duplex cottages, each well equipped with sitting<br />

room, full kitchen, and patio with a gas barbeque.<br />

<strong>The</strong>re is a hot tub and heated swimming pool in<br />

the grounds where paddle-boats, canoes, kayaks,<br />

bicycles and tennis equipment are also available<br />

free of charge.<br />

72


<strong>Maritime</strong> Contrasts<br />

0 37 miles<br />

0 60 kilometres<br />

Edmundston<br />

Grand Falls<br />

Saint<br />

John River<br />

FREDERICTON<br />

Miramichi<br />

St Andrews<br />

Bathurst<br />

Miramichi<br />

River<br />

Doaktown<br />

NEW<br />

BRUNSWICK<br />

Saint<br />

John<br />

QUÉBEC ´<br />

Bay of Fundy<br />

Richibucto<br />

Fundy<br />

National<br />

Park<br />

Chaleur Bay<br />

Caraquet<br />

Bouctouche<br />

Hopewell Rocks<br />

Provincial Park<br />

Kouchibouguac<br />

National<br />

Park<br />

Alma<br />

NOVA<br />

SCOTIA<br />

Northumberland Strait<br />

Moncton<br />

Riverside<br />

Albert<br />

Gulf of St<br />

Lawrence<br />

PRINCE<br />

EDWARD<br />

ISLAND<br />

This lovely trip gets well away from the well-worn<br />

tourist trail. Particular delights include the salmonfilled<br />

Miramichi River and the quaint villages along<br />

its banks, the breathtaking Dune of Bouctouche<br />

and Kouchibouguac National Park.<br />

Day 1<br />

Day 2<br />

Day 3<br />

Day 4<br />

Day 5<br />

Day 6<br />

Drive from Saint John to<br />

Fredericton, New Brunswick’s<br />

capital. Spend time exploring this<br />

historic old town before continuing<br />

to Doaktown.<br />

Delightful Doaktown nestles in a<br />

sylvan setting beside the Miramichi<br />

River, famous for salmon fishing.<br />

Drive through the town of Miramichi<br />

to Richibucto on the<br />

Northumberland Strait.<br />

Spend the day exploring<br />

Kouchibouguac National Park and<br />

the nearby Dune of Bouctouche.<br />

From Richibucto head south past<br />

Moncton to the Bay of Fundy.<br />

Learn all about the world’s highest<br />

tides at Hopewell Rocks and Fundy<br />

National Park.<br />

Day 7<br />

Drive back to Saint John to return<br />

your hire car at the end of your trip.<br />

Kouchibouguac National Park<br />

and the Dune of Bouctouche<br />

On the eastern coast of New Brunswick is the<br />

Kouchibouguac National Park, a wonderful region of<br />

coastal forests, bogs, salt marshes, lagoons and sandy<br />

beaches. A fragile ecosystem has evolved over the<br />

millennia, creating a startling diversity of rare flora and<br />

fauna. Kellys Beach is one of the principal attractions,<br />

boasting some of the warmest waters north of<br />

Virginia and a variety of nearby coastal walking trails.<br />

<strong>The</strong> Dune of Bouctouche, home to the rare piping<br />

plover, is some 50 kilometres to the south, with a<br />

fascinating interpretive centre and an extensive<br />

boardwalk to protect the fragile environment.<br />

Doaktown and<br />

the Miramichi River<br />

Built on a fabled history of heroic lumberjacks<br />

and mighty log drives, this area is best known<br />

for the legendary fly fishing on the Miramichi,<br />

one of New Brunswick’s premier salmon rivers.<br />

<strong>The</strong> small village of Doaktown lies on the banks<br />

of the river in the heart of New Brunswick: it is<br />

home to the famous fishing tackle shop of W.W.<br />

Doak and the Atlantic Museum of the Salmon,<br />

while the Central Woodsmen Museum is close<br />

by. <strong>The</strong> beauty of the Miramichi River can also be<br />

enjoyed by canoe or kayak and the nearby New<br />

Brunswick Trail, the bed of a former railway, is<br />

great for walking and cycling and provides<br />

stunning views and wildlife sightings.<br />

EXTENSIONS<br />

Some delightful extensions to consider to this<br />

tour are Nova Scotia, accessible by ferry across<br />

the Bay of Fundy, or Prince Edward Island which<br />

lies nearby just across the Confederation Bridge.<br />

TAILOR-MADE TRAVEL<br />

Our private tailor-made journeys offer<br />

complete freedom of choice. <strong>The</strong> itineraries and<br />

accommodation shown are designed to give you a<br />

flavour of what is possible and can be tailored to suit<br />

your preferences. Prices vary according to selected<br />

accommodation and season, please telephone us<br />

to discuss your individual requirements.<br />

LEDGES INN, DOAKTOWN<br />

Set in two hectares on the shores of the<br />

Miramichi River in Doaktown, this beautiful inn<br />

is tastefully decorated to reflect the surrounding<br />

natural beauty. <strong>The</strong>re are 11 guest rooms, all<br />

with river views, a fine dining restaurant and a bar.<br />

<strong>The</strong> inn is owned and operated by Caroline<br />

Taylor and her husband Everett, a 6th generation<br />

guide who has been fishing and hunting the region<br />

all his life. Caroline’s love for cooking and people<br />

make an ideal combination for a wonderful stay.<br />

One for the table<br />

New Brunswick: Canada<br />

Telephone: 01993 838 700<br />

Fishing on the Miramichi River<br />

73


West Point Lighthouse<br />

Prince Edward Island<br />

Prince Edward Island, Canada’s smallest<br />

province, is a land of rich, rolling, red<br />

farmland, verdant valleys, stunning seascapes<br />

and bustling harbours. This is Canada’s<br />

birthplace - confederation was signed here<br />

in 1867 - and was home to Lucy Maud<br />

Montgomery, author of ‘Anne of Green<br />

Gables’. <strong>The</strong> island has a cornucopia of natural<br />

treasures such as Brudenall, Linkletter and<br />

Souris Beach Provincial Parks, the ‘singing’<br />

sands of Basin Head and countless lighthouses<br />

that evoke the region’s maritime heritage.<br />

<strong>The</strong> recently-constructed Confederation Bridge<br />

allows easy access from New Brunswick to<br />

some of Canada’s finest beaches, best golf<br />

courses, friendliest locals and, of course, the<br />

delectable Prince Edward Island lobsters.<br />

Inns on Great George<br />

Charlottetown<br />

<strong>The</strong> small city of Charlottetown is the capital of the<br />

province of Prince Edward Island. This charming city<br />

is full of leafy avenues of Victorian clapboard houses,<br />

evoking a tangible sense of yesteryear. It was here,<br />

in Province House in 1867, that the colonies of<br />

British North America convened in federation to<br />

form the nation that today is Canada. <strong>The</strong> city’s<br />

compact size lends itself to exploration on foot;<br />

the Confederation Centre of the Arts, St. Dunstan’s<br />

Basilica, Victoria Park, Founders Hall Museum and<br />

the delightful harbour front are all within easy reach.<br />

<strong>The</strong> principal thoroughfares are Grafton and Kent<br />

streets, housing a collection of historic buildings and<br />

a good selection of restaurants and shops. Don’t<br />

miss a visit to ‘Cows’, something of an island<br />

institution, renowned for their delicious ice-cream.<br />

INNS ON GREAT GEORGE,<br />

CHARLOTTETOWN<br />

<strong>The</strong> Inns on Great George are a unique cluster<br />

of 13 award-winning heritage properties located<br />

in the heart of Charlottetown’s historic district.<br />

Lovingly restored, each building has a character and<br />

story of its own. Each property has been restored<br />

to create a small luxury hotel, whilst preserving the<br />

historic charm, elegance and inn-keeping spirit of<br />

the 1800s. Every one of the 54 guest rooms is<br />

unique, being furnished with antiques and all the<br />

comforts and amenities of contemporary living.<br />

Green Gables<br />

Cavendish<br />

Cavendish and the Dune Shores lie on the<br />

northern coast of Prince Edward Island amidst red<br />

sandstone cliffs, sandy dunes and the crystal blue<br />

water warmed by the Gulf Stream. Cavendish is<br />

surrounded by small farming communities and<br />

fishing villages, each with their own particular<br />

character. Shop for antiques and unique locallycrafted<br />

art or explore botanical gardens. This is<br />

the home of ‘Anne of Green Gables’, Lucy Maud<br />

Montgomery’s famous red-haired little girl that<br />

captured the heart of three generations. Step<br />

back to a simpler time as you explore the place<br />

that inspired the book.<br />

74


Prince Edward Island<br />

Discovery<br />

West Point<br />

Gulf of St Lawrence<br />

Prince Edward Island’s charm is in its quiet<br />

beaches, lighthouses, sand dunes and fertile<br />

farmland. This itinerary encapsulates all of<br />

these and introduces the very best of this<br />

island province.<br />

Linkletter<br />

Provincial<br />

Park<br />

Confederation<br />

Bridge<br />

NEW<br />

BRUNSWICK<br />

Summerside<br />

Cavendish<br />

Prince Edward<br />

CHARLOTTETOWN<br />

Island National Park<br />

PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND<br />

Brudenell River<br />

Provincial Park<br />

Souris<br />

Spry Point<br />

Day 1<br />

Day 2<br />

Collect your hire car and head west<br />

from Charlottetown to West Point<br />

on the island’s west coast.<br />

Enjoy a day at West Point, perhaps<br />

hire a bicycle to explore the quiet<br />

lanes along the long sandy beaches<br />

beside the lighthouse.<br />

0 14 miles<br />

0 22 kilometres<br />

Northumberland Strait<br />

Wood Islands<br />

Day 3<br />

Day 4<br />

Today your route takes you to<br />

Brackley Beach on the north shore<br />

of the island.<br />

<strong>The</strong> day is yours to enjoy Prince<br />

Edward Island National Park or<br />

nearby Cavendish.<br />

Day 5<br />

Drive to Spry Point on the eastern<br />

coast of the island, for a two<br />

night stay.<br />

Day 6<br />

Spend a day at leisure to relax<br />

and enjoy the wonderful seascape<br />

or explore Brudenell River<br />

Provincial Park.<br />

Day 7<br />

Return to Charlottetown to drop<br />

off your hire car at the end of<br />

your tour.<br />

Lobsters<br />

WEST POINT LIGHTHOUSE,<br />

WEST POINT<br />

West Point Lighthouse was constructed in<br />

1875 and is the tallest and most pleasing of the<br />

square-design lighthouses that are characteristic of<br />

the island. Located on the western tip of Prince<br />

Edward Island, the lighthouse towers over the fine<br />

red sand beach, busy with locals and visitors<br />

clamming, horse riding and fishing, while walking<br />

and cycling trails head through the woods. <strong>The</strong><br />

nine cosy guest rooms are all thoughtfully furnished<br />

to recreate the era of the light-keepers and there<br />

is a superb licensed dining room specialising in<br />

charbroiled steak, lobster, scallops, PEI blue mussels<br />

and home-made lighthouse chowder.<br />

Collecting seaweed<br />

THE INN AT SPRY POINT<br />

Spry Point is a feast for the eyes: a 45 hectare<br />

peninsula of red cliffs and white sandy beaches,<br />

all surrounded by water. Each of the 15 luxurious<br />

rooms has either a balcony or a garden terrace -<br />

perfect to enjoy a glass of wine and listen to the<br />

crash of the waves – while the elegant dining<br />

room serves the freshest ingredients from local<br />

suppliers, with organic vegetables and herbs<br />

being especially grown for the inn. This private<br />

and luxurious inn is an ideal base for bird<br />

watching and day walking on many easy trails.<br />

EXTENSIONS<br />

It is simple to combine Prince Edward Island<br />

with a stay in other parts of Atlantic Canada,<br />

or you may wish to visit the delightful Îles de<br />

la Madeleine, accessible by ferry from Souris.<br />

TAILOR-MADE TRAVEL<br />

Our private tailor-made journeys offer<br />

complete freedom of choice. <strong>The</strong> itineraries and<br />

accommodation shown are designed to give you a<br />

flavour of what is possible and can be tailored to suit<br />

your preferences. Prices vary according to selected<br />

accommodation and season, please telephone us<br />

to discuss your individual requirements.<br />

Confederation Bridge<br />

Prince Edward Island: Canada<br />

Telephone: 01993 838 700<br />

<strong>The</strong> Inn at Spry Point<br />

75


<strong>The</strong> Northern Peninsula<br />

Newfoundland<br />

and Labrador<br />

Newfoundland and Labrador evoke images<br />

of majestic mountains and rugged ocean shores.<br />

In early summer icebergs, shorn from 10,000<br />

year old glaciers, glide along Iceberg Alley<br />

through seas rich with whales and sealions.<br />

<strong>The</strong> seabird colonies here are the largest in the<br />

northern hemisphere, attracting over 35 million<br />

seabirds annually. In the interior, moose and<br />

herds of caribou trek through primeval forests<br />

whilst the very northern tip of the island is<br />

home to L’Anse aux Meadows, the only<br />

authenticated Viking site in North America.<br />

St. John’s is the pretty historic capital with more<br />

pubs per square kilometre than any other city on<br />

the continent: island hospitality is renowned<br />

and will surely be a lasting memory of your stay.<br />

<strong>The</strong> cuisine here is as diverse as the province’s<br />

heritage. From jiggs dinner to toutons and<br />

molasses to the mug-up, Newfoundland dishes<br />

have been handed down for generations and are<br />

a feature of this province’s distinctive appeal.<br />

St. John’s<br />

<strong>The</strong> small city of St John’s is the capital of<br />

Newfoundland and is set on this diverse<br />

province’s east coast. <strong>The</strong> harbour area is the<br />

heart of the city: in days gone by this was the<br />

focus of an important maritime trade and fishing<br />

fleet. <strong>The</strong> houses at the harbour mouth gleam<br />

brightly with all the paints the fishermen had left<br />

over from their boats: reds, greens, yellows,<br />

whites and blues make them look like jelly beans<br />

scattered around the base of Signal Hill. This lively<br />

waterfront is now better known for its nightlife,<br />

with countless restaurants, historic pubs and some<br />

great folk music. <strong>The</strong> summer brings a host of<br />

activities, from whale watching and iceberg<br />

spotting to exploring excellent museums<br />

highlighting more than 500 years of history.<br />

Don’t miss a climb to the top of Signal Hill for<br />

spectacular views over the city and nearby<br />

coastline, and be sure to visit the most easterly<br />

point in North America, Cape Spear, close to<br />

the historic village of Quidi Vidi.<br />

St. John’s harbour<br />

LEASIDE MANOR, ST JOHN’S<br />

Leaside Manor is a gracious and carefully restored<br />

manor house that, in the 1920s, belonged to one<br />

of Newfoundland’s most prominent families.<br />

Today this bed and breakfast property retains<br />

much of its period charm and has eleven light and<br />

airy rooms and suites with hardwood floors and<br />

luxury bathrooms and bed linens. A highlight of<br />

your stay will surely be the scrumptious<br />

breakfasts. Ideally located, St Johns’ many<br />

attractions are just a 20 minute walk away.<br />

Terra Nova National Park<br />

Terra Nova National Park was established in<br />

1957 to protect the Atlantic uplands and boreal<br />

forest of eastern Newfoundland. Covering 400<br />

square kilometres, the park includes spruce<br />

forests, rolling hills, bogs, streams and glacial<br />

features, fringed by a rugged coastline broken<br />

with sheltered inlets. <strong>The</strong> area has supported an<br />

impressive array of marine and terrestrial life for<br />

thousands of years: salmon, moose, bears, lynx<br />

and bald eagles are just some of the wildlife you<br />

may see. For millennia the Beothuk found refuge<br />

here and the brief incursion of European settlers<br />

is marked by a scattering of now-abandoned<br />

ruins along the coast.<br />

76


Newfoundland Uncovered<br />

Torngat<br />

Mountains<br />

Hebron<br />

Nain<br />

This tour not only takes you through dramatic and<br />

rugged landscapes to stunning national parks and<br />

beautiful bays, but also to half-forgotten fishing<br />

villages where the locals speak with broad and<br />

diverse accents. This tour showcases<br />

Newfoundland at its best.<br />

Labrador<br />

City<br />

Churchill<br />

Falls<br />

0 100 miles<br />

0 160 kilometres<br />

LABRADOR<br />

QUÉBEC ´<br />

Hopedale<br />

Happy Valley-<br />

Goose Bay<br />

Port au<br />

Choix<br />

Gros Morne<br />

National Park<br />

Corner Brook<br />

Cabot Strait<br />

Atlantic Ocean<br />

Red Bay<br />

Channel-Portaux<br />

Basques<br />

Cartwright<br />

Strait of Belle Isle<br />

Deer<br />

Lake<br />

Battle Harbour<br />

L’Anse aux Meadows<br />

St Anthony<br />

Notre<br />

Dame<br />

Bay<br />

Grand<br />

Falls-<br />

Windsor<br />

Twillingate<br />

Terra<br />

Nova<br />

NP<br />

NEWFOUNDLAND<br />

Cape St Mary’s<br />

Ecological Reserve<br />

Bonavista<br />

Port Rexton<br />

Trinity Bay<br />

ST<br />

JOHN’S<br />

Day 1<br />

Day 2<br />

Day 3<br />

Day 4<br />

Day 5<br />

Day 6<br />

Day 7<br />

Day 8<br />

Drive south from St. John’s to the<br />

pretty village of Colinet on the<br />

Avalon Peninsula.<br />

Arrive in Cape St. Mary’s to see the<br />

massive seabird colonies before<br />

heading north to Trinity Bay.<br />

Spend a day exploring the delightful<br />

fishing villages around Trinity Bay.<br />

Head through Terra Nova National<br />

Park to Twillingate.<br />

Enjoy a day at leisure in Twillingate,<br />

keeping a look out for passing<br />

icebergs in the bay.<br />

Today’s journey takes you west to<br />

the spectacular Gros Morne<br />

National Park.<br />

Cruise the awe-inspiring Western<br />

Brook Pond Fjord.<br />

Drive along the western coast of the<br />

Northern Peninsula past historic Port<br />

au Choix to L’Anse aux Meadows.<br />

Twillingate<br />

Twillingate is an historic fishing village situated on<br />

the shore of Notre Dame Bay, a superb vantage<br />

point for watching icebergs older than our<br />

western civilisation as they float by, through the<br />

summer months, on the Greenland Current.<br />

<strong>The</strong>se waters are also home to a vast number of<br />

marine mammals, and whales can usually be seen<br />

by boat or from the shore at Long Point.<br />

Cape Bonavista lighthouse<br />

HARBOUR LIGHTS INN,<br />

TWILLINGATE<br />

Located on the waterfront in the idyllic old<br />

harbour at Twillingate, lies the recently restored<br />

19th century Harbour Lights Inn. <strong>The</strong>re are nine<br />

en suite bedrooms, several of which have sea and<br />

harbour views. Guests can relax in the lounge,<br />

watching fishing boats arriving in and departing<br />

from the harbour or explore the local area,<br />

keeping an eye out for whales and icebergs.<br />

Trinity Bay<br />

Trinity Bay is a delightful region of clapboard<br />

villages dotted around a crescent of hills that hem<br />

in a deep and intricate bay. Whales and icebergs<br />

are thrilling summer sights and there are several<br />

museums to visit. Between New Bonaventure and<br />

English Harbour on Trinity Bay the rugged<br />

coastline is dotted with 12 picturesque fishing<br />

ports, of which Port Rexton is perhaps the<br />

prettiest. Trinity Bay itself is known for its pageant<br />

and theatre festival, restaurants and boat trips,<br />

while close to Ship Cove the former fortification<br />

of Fox Island surveys a dramatic landscape of<br />

icebergs and ospreys.<br />

FISHERS’ LOFT INN, TRINITY BAY<br />

Nestled in the hills on a quiet winding lane,<br />

Fishers’ Loft Inn overlooks the old fishing and<br />

boat-building harbour of Ship Cove in Port<br />

Rexton. <strong>The</strong> inn is a collection of local Victorian<br />

buildings scattered closely over a hillside where<br />

forest meets meadow. Winding paths connect<br />

the houses of the inn that provide 20 casually<br />

elegant rooms and suites, most with sea views,<br />

and all bright and spacious, with hand-crafted<br />

furniture and original works of art. <strong>The</strong> licensed<br />

dining room serves delicious seasonal food<br />

harvested from the ocean, seaside meadows<br />

and the inn’s kitchen garden.<br />

Day 9<br />

Day 10<br />

Day 11<br />

Leaside Manor<br />

Today discover the fascinating<br />

recreated Viking village at L’Anse<br />

aux Meadows.<br />

Take the ferry from St. Anthony<br />

to Red Bay in Labrador, the world’s<br />

largest whaling port in the<br />

16th century.<br />

Drive back along the Northern<br />

Peninsula to Deer Lake to drop off<br />

your hire car at the end of your tour.<br />

TAILOR-MADE TRAVEL<br />

Our private tailor-made journeys offer<br />

complete freedom of choice. <strong>The</strong> itineraries and<br />

accommodation shown are designed to give you a<br />

flavour of what is possible and can be tailored to suit<br />

your preferences. Prices vary according to selected<br />

accommodation and season, please telephone us<br />

to discuss your individual requirements.<br />

Newfoundland & Labrador: Canada<br />

Telephone: 01993 838 700<br />

77


Western Brook Pond Fjord, Gros Morne National Park<br />

<strong>The</strong> Northern Peninsula<br />

Approximately 300 kilometres long and rich in<br />

history, the Northern Peninsula is a highlight of<br />

any visit to Newfoundland. It is overflowing with<br />

stunning natural features, pre-historic sites and<br />

fishing villages dating back to the early days of<br />

colonisation. Every year the coastal waters<br />

welcome countless whales and from spring into<br />

early summer the sea is transformed by the<br />

annual parade of icebergs, fragments of millenniaold<br />

glaciers. <strong>The</strong> land is filled with healthy<br />

populations of moose, caribou and black bears,<br />

while the rivers and lakes teem with salmon. In<br />

the south, Deer Lake is a good starting point to<br />

load up with fuel and provisions before heading<br />

to the fjords of Gros Morne National Park, widely<br />

acclaimed as one of the most beautiful parks in all<br />

Canada. Heading north, Hawkes Bay is an early<br />

20th century whaling station and Port au Choix is<br />

a historic site dedicated to exhibitions of <strong>Maritime</strong><br />

Archaic Indians and the Dorset Eskimos who lived<br />

here in 2,000BC and AD500 respectively. At the<br />

northern tip of the peninsula lies L’Anse aux<br />

Meadows, thought to be the original landing site<br />

of Viking settlers over 1,000 years ago, while<br />

nearby Ship Cove is the isolated Canadian<br />

community where Annie Proulx wrote and set<br />

her award-winning book, ‘<strong>The</strong> Shipping News’.<br />

CANADIAN SAILING EXPEDITIONS<br />

Experience the thrill of sailing the coasts of<br />

Newfoundland and Nova Scotia on classic<br />

windjammer tall ships, with the wind filling the sails<br />

and the tang of salt in the air. Typically, cruises last<br />

for about a week and visit small remote villages,<br />

wonderful sounding hideaways such as Man o’ War<br />

Cove and magnificent natural phenomena like Gros<br />

Morne National Park. Re-live the great age<br />

of sail whilst enjoying the modern-day comforts of<br />

private cabins with en suite showers and hearty<br />

wholesome meals in a spacious dining room. <strong>The</strong><br />

Caledonia, the vessel that usually sails these waters,<br />

is a 75 metre square-rigged barquentine, a majestic<br />

and traditional tall ship with a large salon, long<br />

mahogany bar and library where guests can mingle<br />

in comfort. Guests can also sign up for the daily<br />

sailing activities, including historical lectures, sailing<br />

theory, climbing the rigging or taking the wheel: the<br />

choice is geared towards all ages and fitness levels.<br />

Gros Morne National Park<br />

This landscape of bays, beaches, sea stacks and<br />

bare-topped mountains cut through by fjords has<br />

an irresistible, intoxicating beauty. Nestled in the<br />

Long Range Mountains, the Gros Morne National<br />

Park is a UNESCO World Heritage Site that offers<br />

unparalleled walking through wild uninhabited<br />

mountains and boat tours under towering cliffs. This<br />

is a place to see geology in action, with a thin<br />

veneer of the living world clinging to the hard rock.<br />

NEDDIES HARBOUR INN,<br />

GROS MORNE NATIONAL PARK<br />

Neddies Harbour Inn is a luxurious, waterfront inn<br />

located in Norris Point, right in the heart of Gros<br />

Morne National Park. This tranquil location provides<br />

magnificent views of the bay, the Long Range<br />

Mountains and the Tablelands. <strong>The</strong> inn has 15<br />

spacious and tastefully furnished rooms, a restaurant<br />

serving the freshest local ingredients, an exercise<br />

room, sauna, and hot tub. Emphasis is placed on<br />

environmentally-friendly energy systems and the use<br />

of authentic local craftsmanship and products.<br />

78<br />

<strong>The</strong> square-rigged barquentine Caledonia


Colourful fishing boats<br />

<strong>The</strong> Torngat Mountains, Labrador<br />

Quirpon Lighthouse Inn<br />

QUIRPON LIGHTHOUSE INN,<br />

QUIRPON ISLAND<br />

This restored light-keeper’s home on the shores<br />

of ‘Iceberg Alley’ is one of Newfoundland’s most<br />

unusual bed and breakfasts. Located on a<br />

deserted island at the northernmost point in<br />

Newfoundland, overlooking the Viking site at<br />

L’Anse aux Meadows, Quirpon has the longest<br />

season in Newfoundland for iceberg viewing. As<br />

you drift off to sleep in one of the ten wellappointed<br />

rooms, let the powerful North Atlantic<br />

surf remind you of the hardiness of the<br />

generations of light-keepers who lived in this<br />

isolated spot: here your nearest neighbours may<br />

be the whales migrating past your door. <strong>The</strong><br />

island has a beautiful walk to an abandoned fishing<br />

village and another follows the cliffs to the<br />

unexcavated remains of ancient sod huts, the last<br />

traces of an ancient culture.<br />

TICKLE INN, CAPE ONION<br />

<strong>The</strong> Tickle Inn at Cape Onion is one of the<br />

most northerly homes in the province, a typical<br />

old Newfoundland property that has been<br />

restored by David Adams, a fourth generation<br />

member of the original owner’s family. <strong>The</strong> ocean<br />

is on the doorstep and the house is surrounded<br />

by nearly four hectares of meadows and hills:<br />

great for leisurely beachcombing and walking.<br />

<strong>The</strong> four bedrooms are original to the house<br />

and have been occupied by the Adams family<br />

Tuckamore Lodge<br />

for almost 100 years: though small and with<br />

shared bathrooms they are attractive and are<br />

traditionally decorated. Evening meals are<br />

delicious and home-cooked, seasoned with lively<br />

conversation and perhaps, if you are keen,<br />

followed by David’s rendition of a traditional<br />

eastern seaboard song or two.<br />

TUCKAMORE LODGE, MAIN BROOK<br />

Tuckamore Lodge is a place to unwind and<br />

reconnect with nature. <strong>The</strong> heart of Tuckamore<br />

Lodge is your host, Barb Genge and her friendly,<br />

local staff, all of whom take great pride in sharing<br />

their knowledge of the region’s heritage, flora and<br />

fauna. Spend your days whale watching, canoeing,<br />

walking, fishing or merely exploring the area.<br />

Lobster pots<br />

Neddies Harbour Inn<br />

<strong>The</strong> property offers Scandinavian-style<br />

accommodation in the midst of northern<br />

Newfoundland’s spectacular wilderness. <strong>The</strong> two<br />

wooden lodges are each decorated with local<br />

artwork and have spectacular lake views. Facilities<br />

include a sauna, hot tub, library and a living room,<br />

while meals are served in communal dining<br />

rooms and include such Newfoundland favourites<br />

as Atlantic salmon and bakeapples. Wildlife<br />

abounds - millions of seabirds return annually<br />

and there are large populations of moose,<br />

caribou and black bears.<br />

Red Bay<br />

Red Bay is one of the oldest occupied ports<br />

along the Labrador Straits, established by Breton<br />

fishermen and Basque whalers during the 16th<br />

century to refine whale oil for export back to<br />

Europe. <strong>The</strong> sheltered harbour of Red Bay was<br />

at the heart of this hazardous and pioneering<br />

industry and is now a UNESCO Historical Site<br />

with important archeological finds, including<br />

sunken Basque whaling galleons. Local legends<br />

of Red Bay make reference to hidden treasure<br />

buried in a body of water known as Pond<br />

on the Hill.<br />

Newfoundland & Labrador: Canada<br />

Telephone: 01993 838 700<br />

79

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