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The <strong>Armenia</strong>n Reporter | February 28, 2009 17<br />

<strong>Armenia</strong><br />

The only remaining village from <strong>Armenia</strong>n Goghtn<br />

It is worth visiting<br />

Karchevan at least<br />

once to see the River<br />

Araks <strong>and</strong> eat sunripened<br />

fruits<br />

by Tatul Hakobyan<br />

KARCHEVAN, Syunik Province,<br />

<strong>Armenia</strong> – Of all the villages in<br />

<strong>Armenia</strong>, Karchevan is the secondfarthest<br />

from the capital city, more<br />

than 400 kilometers. The name<br />

Karchevan is very familiar to all<br />

those who have crossed the Araks<br />

River by l<strong>and</strong>, traveling to Iran or<br />

entering Christian <strong>Armenia</strong> from<br />

the Islamic Republic. The name<br />

Karchevan is stamped in their passports.<br />

The village bearing the same<br />

name, which was called Kirchavan<br />

in the past, which means a town in<br />

the gorge, is situated five kilometers<br />

north of the Araks river.<br />

Karchevan is on the border of<br />

<strong>Armenia</strong> with Iran <strong>and</strong> also with<br />

Nakhichevan, which was h<strong>and</strong>ed<br />

to Azerbaijan in 1921 as an autonomous<br />

republic. It is known not only<br />

for its sweet, sun-ripened fruit,<br />

but also for being the only village<br />

of the historic <strong>Armenia</strong>n province<br />

of Goghtn – today called Ordubad<br />

– still remaining within <strong>Armenia</strong>.<br />

Nakhichevan today has almost<br />

no autonomy. The totalitarian clan<br />

of Vasif Talibov reigns there, with<br />

the the support of the local Aliyev<br />

dynasty, which rules in Baku. It<br />

comprises three historical <strong>Armenia</strong>n<br />

regions: Goghtn, Nakhichevan,<br />

<strong>and</strong> Sharur. In 1921, when only<br />

10 percent of the population was<br />

<strong>Armenia</strong>n, Nakhichevan was given<br />

to Azerbaijan; only <strong>Armenia</strong>n-populated<br />

Karchevan remained in <strong>Armenia</strong>.<br />

By 1988, the <strong>Armenia</strong>n residents<br />

of the remaining <strong>Armenia</strong>n<br />

villages in Goghtn, Nakhichevan,<br />

<strong>and</strong> Sharur had moved out or had<br />

been forced to leave the autonomous<br />

republic.<br />

Sun-ripened fruit<br />

typical to the region of<br />

Meghri – pomegranate,<br />

fig, persimmon, as<br />

well as peach <strong>and</strong><br />

grapes – grow in<br />

Karchevan.<br />

Armen Avetisian has been the<br />

head of the Karchevan village since<br />

1994. “The village has a history of<br />

more than 2,000 years,” he said.<br />

“Today it has almost 100 homes<br />

<strong>and</strong> 400 residents. The residents of<br />

Karchevan are indigenous. In the<br />

Meghri region they are famous for<br />

being hard workers <strong>and</strong> for their<br />

peculiar dialect, which is a little incomprehensible<br />

at first.”<br />

One of the few residents of<br />

Karchevan who is not from the<br />

village is Svetlana Papyan. She<br />

moved here from the city of Kajaran.<br />

She met her husb<strong>and</strong> here. She is<br />

an English-language teacher by profession;<br />

this year she was appointed<br />

director of the village school.<br />

The Karchevan school, which<br />

goes from the first through the<br />

ninth grades, has a 132-year history<br />

<strong>and</strong> 47 students. The school is in the<br />

churchyard. Or perhaps the church<br />

is in the schoolyard. The streets are<br />

very steep <strong>and</strong> narrow. The village<br />

hall, the kindergarten, the house<br />

of culture, the library, <strong>and</strong> people’s<br />

homes are very close to one another.<br />

This situation has also had an<br />

effect on the character of the local<br />

Armen Avetisian.<br />

residents; it seems as if they all live<br />

together in a big house.<br />

The village does not have room<br />

to exp<strong>and</strong>. If it were to exp<strong>and</strong>, it<br />

would be at the cost of the orchards.<br />

Everything is very compact in the<br />

village. It is surrounded by three<br />

gorges <strong>and</strong> is very small. That is<br />

part of what gives Karchevan its<br />

special character.<br />

“Forty-seven students study at<br />

the school,” Ms. Papyan said. “We<br />

do not have a problem with specialists;<br />

all of our teachers have graduated<br />

from higher education establishments<br />

<strong>and</strong> are highly qualified<br />

specialists. Religious instruction<br />

is usually conducted in the church.<br />

Our village is very developed <strong>and</strong><br />

the children study very hard. Our<br />

students graduate from the secondary<br />

school in the city of Agarak.”<br />

The school is named after the<br />

famous linguist Edward Aghaian,<br />

who hailed from the village. Other<br />

famous <strong>Armenia</strong>ns from Karchevan<br />

include chess player Rafael Vahanian<br />

<strong>and</strong> academician Artashes<br />

Matevosian.<br />

But the pride of the residents of<br />

Karchevan is, of course, Garegin<br />

Nzhdeh (Karekin Nejdeh); even<br />

though he was born in the village<br />

of Kznut in Nakhichevan, he<br />

frequently visited <strong>and</strong> stayed in<br />

Karchevan when he headed Mountainous<br />

<strong>Armenia</strong>’s struggle against<br />

Soviet occupiers. Whereas <strong>Armenia</strong><br />

became Soviet in December 1920,<br />

Zangezur became Soviet half a year<br />

later in July 1921.<br />

The village head showed me a<br />

house that belonged to Gurgen<br />

Aghayan, member of parliament<br />

of the first Republic of <strong>Armenia</strong>.<br />

Nzhdeh stayed in that house when<br />

he visited Karchevan. The most<br />

beautiful spot in Karchevan, a<br />

small waterfall, is located a small<br />

distance from that house.<br />

Karchevan is one of the few <strong>Armenia</strong>n<br />

villages, from which there<br />

has been almost no emigration.<br />

Just as in the Soviet years, now<br />

too most of the villagers work at<br />

the copper-molybdenum factory in<br />

the city of Agarak. Agarak, which<br />

has about 5,000 residents, was<br />

constructed half a century ago as a<br />

workers’ town. The city of Agarak is<br />

also located within the territory of<br />

Karchevan; only two years ago the<br />

government stated that the territory<br />

belongs to the city.<br />

In the second half of March, the<br />

copper-molybdenum factory in<br />

Agarak will stop working because<br />

of the international financial crisis.<br />

The factory, which provided 1,450<br />

jobs, will work only partially <strong>and</strong><br />

about 1,100 workers will be laid off.<br />

“There has been almost no immigration<br />

from Karchevan, since there<br />

is employment. Even if they leave,<br />

they go to Agarak, which is four kilometers<br />

away, in order to get an<br />

A factory in Agarak . Photos: Tatul Hakobyan for the <strong>Armenia</strong>n Reporter.<br />

The road from Agarak to Meghri. The border is on the right.<br />

apartment. Most of the youngsters<br />

of the village worked in the factory.<br />

Agriculture had moved to the background.<br />

Now that the factory is not<br />

working, people will start working<br />

in agriculture,” said Mr. Avetisian.<br />

To work in agriculture, however,<br />

l<strong>and</strong> is required. There are mostly<br />

cliffs on the banks of Araks. The<br />

hard-working residents of Karchevan<br />

have found the solution: they<br />

bring soil from other places, lay it<br />

on the rocks, <strong>and</strong> plant trees. The<br />

same is being done in other rocky<br />

villages in the Meghri region. Sunripened<br />

fruit typical to the region<br />

of Meghri – pomegranate, fig,<br />

persimmon, as well as peach <strong>and</strong><br />

grapes – grow in Karchevan. The<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

The village of Karchevan.<br />

fruits ripened in the Araks gorge<br />

are the most delicious in <strong>Armenia</strong>,<br />

as no other region receives as much<br />

sun <strong>and</strong> warmth.<br />

During the Soviet years the<br />

Meghri region was linked with Yerevan<br />

by road <strong>and</strong> railway, passing<br />

through the territory of Nakhichevan.<br />

Today it takes about 7–8 hours<br />

to reach Yerevan, whereas before it<br />

took only three because the roads<br />

running along the bank of the<br />

Araks to the capital city of Yerevan<br />

<strong>and</strong> the Ararat valley were open.<br />

“Taking our fruits to Yerevan is<br />

very hard now. After the Karabakh<br />

war, the distance to Yerevan has<br />

doubled,” said Mr. Avetisian.<br />

To say Karchevan or the Meghri<br />

<br />

region are completely cut off from<br />

the world would be wrong. The main<br />

<strong>and</strong> only road going to Iran passes<br />

through here. There are comfortable<br />

<strong>and</strong> affordable hotels <strong>and</strong> food outlets<br />

here. Dozens of Iranian tractor<br />

trailers <strong>and</strong> Yerevan-Tehran buses<br />

pass by here every day.<br />

During the years of the Karabakh<br />

war, when <strong>Armenia</strong> was blockaded<br />

by three of its neighboring countries<br />

(by doing so Turkey <strong>and</strong><br />

Azerbaijan were trying to strangle<br />

newly independent <strong>Armenia</strong>, <strong>and</strong><br />

Georgia had been pulled into the<br />

chaos), this road had become the<br />

only route through which <strong>Armenia</strong><br />

kept its links with the outside<br />

world.<br />

f

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