Download Mozart City-Guide [PDF] - Frankfurter Bürgerstiftung im ...
Download Mozart City-Guide [PDF] - Frankfurter Bürgerstiftung im ...
Download Mozart City-Guide [PDF] - Frankfurter Bürgerstiftung im ...
You also want an ePaper? Increase the reach of your titles
YUMPU automatically turns print PDFs into web optimized ePapers that Google loves.
If I could insure his curiosity<br />
I would do it with DBV-Winterthur.<br />
He opens every drawer. He hunts the fish in the fish bowl. He absolutely needs to<br />
know how the inside of a vase looks like. Unfortunately, not only at home.<br />
Third party insurance. Discover the world. Trust one of the leading insurance companies<br />
with more than 125 years of experience. Information: +49 1803 335346* or with your<br />
DBV-Winterthur consultant www.dbv-winterthur.de<br />
DBV-Winterthur<br />
Versicherungen<br />
<strong>Frankfurter</strong> Straße 50<br />
65178 Wiesbaden<br />
Tel.: +49 1803 335346*<br />
*9 Cent /Minute<br />
www.dbv-winterthur.de
Three Generations <strong>Mozart</strong> at Frankfurt – A <strong>City</strong> <strong>Guide</strong><br />
Sponsored by:<br />
DBV-Winterthur Versicherungen<br />
Internationale Stiftung <strong>Mozart</strong>eum Salzburg<br />
Cronstett- & Hynspergische Evangelische Stiftung<br />
Ernst Max von Grunelius-Stiftung<br />
<strong>Mozart</strong>-Stiftung von 1838 zu Frankfurt am Main<br />
Bankhaus Metzler Frankfurt am Main<br />
Historisches Museum Frankfurt am Main<br />
Degussa AG<br />
Casa Sinopoli - Dr. Ulrike Kienzle<br />
vividprojects GmbH<br />
Kulturothek Frankfurt am Main<br />
Freundes- & Förderkreis der <strong>Frankfurter</strong> Bürgerstiftung<br />
bombel.com consulting, Freudenstadt<br />
Edited by:<br />
<strong>Frankfurter</strong> Bürgerstiftung <strong>im</strong> Holzhausenschlößchen<br />
Exhibition partner:<br />
Historisches Museum Frankfurt am Main<br />
Internationale Stiftung <strong>Mozart</strong>eum Salzburg<br />
FRANKFURTER BÜRGERSTIFTUNG<br />
IM HOLZHAUSENSCHLÖSSCHEN
1763: Leopold <strong>Mozart</strong>, director of music from Salzburg arrives at Frankfurt<br />
with his family.The concert of the two wunderkind Nannerl and Wolfgang<br />
charm the <strong>Frankfurter</strong>.Among them, a later celebrity: Johann Wolfgang Goethe<br />
1790: On the occasion of the coronation of Leopold II, the now famous<br />
componist Wolfgang Amadeus <strong>Mozart</strong> stays another t<strong>im</strong>e at Frankfurt.<br />
He meets plenty of old acquaintances, dines in the most famous houses of<br />
the city and gives a concert.<br />
1820: <strong>Mozart</strong>’s youngest son, Franz Xaver, called Wolfgang Amadeus junior,<br />
stays at Frankfurt for a period of four weeks while on a concert trip which took<br />
h<strong>im</strong> a couple of years. He is delighted by the Cäcilien-Verein.<br />
Three generation of <strong>Mozart</strong> at Frankfurt:<br />
three milestones of Frankfurt’s music history!<br />
Three Generations <strong>Mozart</strong> at Frankfurt – A <strong>City</strong> Map<br />
page 3 WELCOME<br />
page 4 FOREWORD<br />
page 6 A CITY GUIDE<br />
page 9 1. MAINBRÜCKE<br />
page 10 2. MAINKAI/FAHRTOR<br />
page 10 3. RÖMERBERG<br />
page 11 4. BENDERGASSE 3<br />
page 12 5. «KAISERDOM» ST. BARTHOLOMÄUS<br />
page 13 6. GASTOF «ZUM GOLDENEN LÖWEN»<br />
page 14 7. SCHÄRFENGÄSSCHEN/CORNER OF HOLZGRABEN<br />
page 16 8. GASTHOF «ZUM WEISSEN SCHWAN»<br />
page 16 9. «BACKHAUS»<br />
page 17 10. RATHENAUPLATZ<br />
page 18 11. KATHARINENKIRCHE<br />
page 18 12. ZEIL<br />
page 20 13. STIFTSTRASSE/CORNER OF STEPHANSTRASSE<br />
page 20 14. ZEIL-FORMER MAIN POST OFFICE<br />
page 21 15. ALTE MAINZER GASSE/MAINKAI<br />
page 24 PROSPECTS<br />
page 25 FOUNDATION MAKES HISTORY<br />
© 2005 Editor: <strong>Frankfurter</strong> Bürgerstiftung, Foundation Director Clemens Greve<br />
Background <strong>im</strong>age: To Frankfurt, you could either travel overland or by water. In 1763, one of these market ships brought the <strong>Mozart</strong> family from Mainz to<br />
Frankfurt. In the font, you see the Gutleuthof, in the back the St. Bartholomäus Cathedral.<br />
Title page: <strong>Mozart</strong>, surounded by roses, his arm resting nonchlantly on the pillar of his glory, cursory scribbled notes falling off his hands – that is how one<br />
<strong>im</strong>agined the componist in the 19th century.
Welcome<br />
<strong>Mozart</strong> Year 2006: For many European cities, the 250th anniversary of the birthday of<br />
Wolfgang Amadeus <strong>Mozart</strong> in January 2006 is an opportunity to follow the tracks of the<br />
famous composer around their own streets and buildings, but also to see those tracks<br />
reflected in the documents of contemporaries and subsequent generations. It was for this<br />
reason that the European <strong>Mozart</strong> Ways initiative was founded and designated a «Major<br />
Cultural Route» by the European Council. On the agenda are cultural trips, innovative<br />
projects for children and young people and cultural and scientific events all about<br />
<strong>Mozart</strong>. Frankfurt am Main is one of the stops on the European <strong>Mozart</strong> Ways. <strong>Mozart</strong><br />
visited our city twice and gave accla<strong>im</strong>ed concerts here.The Frankfurt citizens, with their<br />
great appreciation of art, loved <strong>Mozart</strong>’s music from the beginning. Many of his operas<br />
were performed in Frankfurt soon after their debut performance. Here in 1838, the<br />
<strong>Mozart</strong> Foundation for the advancement of young composers was founded.And so it is<br />
a worthwhile venture to once more go down those paths taken by <strong>Mozart</strong> in our city.<br />
This city guide, published by the <strong>Frankfurter</strong> Bürgerstiftung, which represents the<br />
European <strong>Mozart</strong> Ways in our city, gives us an opportunity to do so. Even if the houses<br />
where <strong>Mozart</strong> lived and made music are no longer existing, this city guide invites you<br />
to discover Frankfurt with fresh eyes – with the eyes of <strong>Mozart</strong>, whose music still plays<br />
an <strong>im</strong>portant role in Frankfurt today.<br />
Petra Roth<br />
LORD MAYOR
Foreword<br />
T<br />
he year of <strong>Mozart</strong> 2006, the 250th anniversary of the birthday of Wolfgang Amadeus<br />
<strong>Mozart</strong>, and it will see numerous events in Frankfurt.The <strong>Frankfurter</strong> Bürgerstiftung (community<br />
foundation) will organise concerts, recitals, lectures, children’s events and an exhibition at the<br />
Holzhausenschlösschen (Holzhausen House), and other venues in Frankfurt.<br />
<strong>Mozart</strong> visited Frankfurt twice, at the beginning and at the end of his life.This <strong>Mozart</strong> city guide a<strong>im</strong>s<br />
to illustrate all the <strong>im</strong>portant places that he visited during his stays in Frankfurt and show you how they<br />
looked then and how they look now, using both the Merian city map and detailed descriptions. But this<br />
city guide also remembers the month-long visit of Franz Xaver, <strong>Mozart</strong>’s son and also a composer.Thanks<br />
to the musicologist Dr. Ulrike Kienzle, we were able to find out more about his stay in Frankfurt in the<br />
year 1820. In an exhibition planned for 8th of January 2006 at the Holzhausenschlösschen we hope to<br />
investigate his stay in detail.<br />
We would also like to mention the work of the <strong>Mozart</strong> Foundation, founded in Frankfurt in 1838,<br />
which was one of the first sponsorship institutions for young composers. Max Bruch and Engelbert<br />
Humperdinck, composer of «Hansel and Gretel», were just some of those sponsored by this foundation.<br />
From the biography of Humperdinck’s son Wolfram, we find out that the decision to devote h<strong>im</strong>self<br />
to the study of music was due to the advice of Ferdinand Hiller, a Frankfurt native known as the<br />
«Rheinischer Musikpapst» (music pope of the Rhineland), who was then head of the conservatory of<br />
Cologne and who took young Engelbert Humperdinck under his wing.<br />
4<br />
Right: <strong>City</strong> map of Frankfurt by Matthäus Merian around 1761 (History Museum, Frankfurt am Main)
But what does all this have to do with the <strong>Mozart</strong> Foundation of 1838? Actually, quite a lot. It was Hiller<br />
who helped Humperdinck obtain a grant from the <strong>Mozart</strong> Foundation that took all the worry out of<br />
his studies. Before this, Humperdinck had been seriously ill and had to stop his studies. Hiller applied for<br />
a grant from the <strong>Mozart</strong> Foundation that «brought happy hours» back into Humperdinck’s family home.<br />
After all, this grant allowed h<strong>im</strong> to study for four more years, first in Cologne and subsequently<br />
in Munich.<br />
Why am I writing about this in so much detail? Since 2003, the <strong>Frankfurter</strong> Bürgerstiftung has been a<br />
member of the European <strong>Mozart</strong> Ways association.As director of the Bürgerstiftung, I am also a member<br />
of the administrative board of the Frankfurt-based <strong>Mozart</strong> Foundation. It therefore stands to reason that<br />
I promote the <strong>im</strong>portant <strong>Mozart</strong> city of Frankfurt, not only in relation to interesting past events but also<br />
with a view to the future.What can we, the friends and sponsors of the <strong>Frankfurter</strong> Bürgerstiftung and<br />
all friends of the music of Wolfgang Amadeus <strong>Mozart</strong>, do? Well, we can make sure that the <strong>Mozart</strong><br />
Foundation receives our help by making a donation towards their work of enabling young musical talent<br />
in need of assistance to complete their education in composition (see attached credit transfer form). In<br />
1923, the assets of the <strong>Mozart</strong> Foundation shrank from 240,000 Goldmarks to 3000 Goldmarks. As a<br />
result of numerous small donations up to the present day, the foundation has been able to build up a<br />
modest capital that currently provides for regular moderate financial support of three scholarship holders.<br />
Let us start in the European city of Frankfurt, let us all support the <strong>Mozart</strong> Foundation so that in 2006,<br />
there will perhaps be another scholarship to offer or an interesting musical programme with performances<br />
of the works of Wolfgang Amadeus <strong>Mozart</strong> or the works of the <strong>Mozart</strong> Foundation scholarship holders.<br />
I feel that it is our duty to breathe new life into the <strong>Mozart</strong> Foundation in this <strong>Mozart</strong> jubilee year, so<br />
that it can continue its valuable work into the future.We, the <strong>Frankfurter</strong> Bürgerstiftung take the opportunity<br />
that the <strong>Mozart</strong> year offers, to draw attention to this small but <strong>im</strong>portant foundation.<br />
I would like to sincerely thank Dr. Ulrike Kienzle for her excellent cooperation in turning this charming<br />
<strong>Mozart</strong> city guide into a reality.And for the <strong>Frankfurter</strong> <strong>Mozart</strong> Foundation, which in the course<br />
of its history has encouraged so much young talent, I hope that it once more receives the attention it<br />
deserves. I would like to thank the employees of the Historische Museum, namely Mr. Dr. Jan Gerchow,<br />
Ms. Anja Damaschke and Mr. Oliver Morr for their kind cooperation within the scope of our joint<br />
exhibition «Three Generations of <strong>Mozart</strong> at Frankfurt», which will take place from 8th of January 2006<br />
until 24th of February 2006 in the Holzhausenschlößchen.<br />
Yours, Clemens Greve<br />
FOUNDATION DIRECTOR<br />
Left: Geometric ground plan of the free city of Frankfurt and Sachsenhausen in the year 1822;<br />
recorded, sketched and published by C.F. Ulrich, architect and mathematician, (History Museum, Frankfurt am Main)<br />
7
Wolfgang Amadeus <strong>Mozart</strong> travelled a lot within Europe. He<br />
never endured the constraints of his hometown Salzburg for long.<br />
He also left Vienna quite often and as a result, quite a few cities<br />
can cla<strong>im</strong> to be real «<strong>Mozart</strong> cities»: Salzburg and Vienna,<br />
Mannhe<strong>im</strong>, Munich and Augsburg, London, Paris and Prague.<br />
What about Frankfurt? <strong>Mozart</strong> visited Frankfurt twice, at the<br />
beginning and at the end of his life.<br />
Text: Ulrike Kienzle<br />
8<br />
The first journey was that of the wunderkind.<br />
<strong>Mozart</strong>’s father Leopold had set out from<br />
Salzburg with his family in June 1763 in his own<br />
coach to present to the world the absolutely<br />
incredible ability of his two children Wolfgang<br />
and Nannerl.The journey took them to Paris and<br />
London and on their way there to Frankfurt. Not<br />
until November 1766 did the family return to<br />
Salzburg.<br />
When one considers that the <strong>Mozart</strong> family travelled<br />
continuously for over three years, one has<br />
to ask oneself:What did the children learn? How<br />
did they spend their days? How did a seven-year<br />
old cope with being separated from friends and<br />
toys and his home surroundings for so long? The<br />
family lived in the coach and in hotel rooms.<br />
There, the children were taught by their father.<br />
Both learned effortlessly -languages, mathematics,<br />
social graces – and of course, music.At Augsburg,<br />
Leopold bought a «clavierl» a clavichord for travelling,<br />
on which they children could practice on<br />
their journey. One does not have the <strong>im</strong>pression<br />
that the children were unhappy. On the contrary<br />
- «Wolfgang is quite extraordinarily funny, but also<br />
bold» wrote Leopold from Frankfurt to a friend<br />
in Salzburg. By «bold», he meant high-spirited,<br />
naughty, wild – just like all children of their age.<br />
In his concert announcements, Leopold was not<br />
short on grandiose promises: He wanted to: «procla<strong>im</strong><br />
a wonder, which God has allowed to be<br />
born in Salzburg». His children were always able<br />
to fulfil these expectations effortlessly, if not even<br />
exceed them. The cute seven-year old especially,<br />
with his chubby young face in the old-fashioned<br />
gala uniform with wig and sword, was always<br />
enthusiastically applauded, cheered, showered<br />
with presents and kissed.<br />
<strong>Mozart</strong>’s second journey to Frankfurt in the<br />
autumn of 1790 occurred under less fortunate<br />
circumstances.A year prior to his death, the composer,<br />
threatened by financial debt and decline in
In 1790, Wolfgang Amadeus <strong>Mozart</strong> came to Frankfurt in his own coach – most probably<br />
from the Sachsenhausen side, as can be seen in the illustration.<br />
society, travelled to Frankfurt for the <strong>im</strong>perial<br />
coronation of Leopold II. His hope to be invited<br />
to be part of the court orchestra was not fulfilled.<br />
The emperor preferred the works of Salieri and<br />
so <strong>Mozart</strong> had to travel at his own expense<br />
and pawn his silver to pay for the journey.<br />
Nevertheless, he travelled in his own coach and in<br />
the company of his brother-in-law Franz Hofer,<br />
in a manner in keeping with his social status.The<br />
increasingly desperate petitions to the lodge brother<br />
Michael Puchberg come from the same year,<br />
1790. In a debenture bond, dated 1st of October<br />
1790 (<strong>Mozart</strong> was already in Frankfurt at this<br />
t<strong>im</strong>e), he pawned all his furnishings in exchange<br />
for a loan of 1000 florins. He was obviously<br />
hoping to bring a respectable amount of money<br />
back from Frankfurt to make repayments at<br />
home. <strong>Mozart</strong>, like his father 27 years before, was<br />
banking on the wealth of the city. But his own<br />
concert was completely drowned in the chaotic<br />
hype of the coronation and in the abundance of<br />
musical, military and social events. Although he<br />
was received with admiration and recognition by<br />
the small audience, financially, it seemed the venture<br />
had not been worthwhile.<br />
And finally, <strong>Mozart</strong>’s youngest son Franz Xaver<br />
spent some t<strong>im</strong>e in Frankfurt – he stayed for a<br />
month. He, like his father, was a composer and<br />
travelling virtuoso and lived his life in his father’s<br />
shadow. From early on, his mother, Konstanze,<br />
raised h<strong>im</strong> to be a wunderkind.As a five-year old,<br />
he sang Papageno’s bird-catcher song from the<br />
«Magic Flute» before invited guests and he soon<br />
played the piano sonatas of his father in public.<br />
He called h<strong>im</strong>self «Wolfgang Amadeus <strong>Mozart</strong><br />
Junior» and wrote elegant compositions in the<br />
style of early Romanticism. He was by no means<br />
ungifted but was not a genius. After a post as a<br />
music teacher with a wealthy family, he settled in<br />
Lemberg and from there in May 1819, he set out<br />
on a great concert tour through Europe. We<br />
know a lot about this journey, because Franz<br />
Xaver wrote a letter diary for his sweetheart who<br />
he had left behind at home. On 5th of December<br />
1820 in the «Rothe Haus» on the Zeil, he witnessed<br />
a memorable performance of <strong>Mozart</strong>’s<br />
Requiem organised by the newly founded<br />
«Cäcilien-Verein» and conducted by Johann<br />
Nepomuk Schelble. Franz Xaver made many<br />
contacts within the Frankfurt music scene, gave a<br />
very well received concert and at home in<br />
Lemberg – inspired by Frankfurt’s model - founded<br />
his own Cäcilien-Verein.<br />
9
Three generations of <strong>Mozart</strong> at Frankfurt:<br />
Above: Wolfgang Amadeus (1756 – 1791)<br />
Below left: Father Leopold (1719 – 1787)<br />
Below right: <strong>Mozart</strong>’s son Franz Xaver Wolfgang (1791 – 1844), contemporary illustration<br />
They experienced Frankfurt as an «old-fashioned» city full of mediaeval half-t<strong>im</strong>bered houses.<br />
Meanwhile, the cityscape has changed completely: the little illustration in the middle shows the<br />
skyline of Frankfurt today seen from the Alte Brücke (Old bridge).
Another <strong>im</strong>portant chapter (but one which we<br />
cannot address in more detail here) is the history<br />
of the performance of <strong>Mozart</strong>’s music in<br />
Frankfurt. His operas were performed here from<br />
early on, usually only a few months after their<br />
debut performance and they became a central<br />
part of the repertoire. In 1838, Frankfurt citizens,<br />
with their great appreciation of art, founded the<br />
<strong>Mozart</strong> Foundation – one of the first institutions<br />
to sponsor young composers. So is Frankfurt<br />
a «proper» <strong>Mozart</strong> city? Yes and no. Of course<br />
Frankfurt cannot compete with Augsburg or<br />
Mannhe<strong>im</strong>, let alone with Salzburg or Vienna.<br />
But yet, Frankfurt was an <strong>im</strong>portant city in the<br />
history of the <strong>Mozart</strong> family. Leopold wrote some<br />
of his first letters here and by his own admittance,<br />
experienced so much, that he could have written<br />
about it for days. The two stays of Wolfgang<br />
Amadeus <strong>Mozart</strong> in Frankfurt coincide with turning<br />
points in his biography - the celebrated<br />
wunderkind and the man marked by troubles,<br />
forced to curry the favour of the rich – these<br />
are stark contrasts. His son, for his part, brought<br />
back from Frankfurt a lot of inspiration. Thus,<br />
Frankfurt’s place among the <strong>Mozart</strong> cities is not a<br />
central one, but it is nevertheless a worthy one.<br />
The two stays of Wolfgang Amadeus <strong>Mozart</strong> in Frankfurt coincide with<br />
turning points in his biography - the celebrated wunderkind and the man<br />
marked by troubles, forced to curry the favour of the rich – these are stark<br />
contrasts.<br />
With this small city guide, using old and new<br />
Illustrations, documents and texts, we would like<br />
to guide you to the most <strong>im</strong>portant <strong>Mozart</strong> sites,<br />
or rather to what these places have now become,<br />
because the catastrophe of the Second World<br />
War made sure that not one of the houses in<br />
which the three <strong>Mozart</strong> stayed, has survived. Old<br />
Frankfurt has vanished, but its memory can be<br />
brought back to life.Therefore we have deliberately<br />
contrasted the Illustrations of the original<br />
buildings with photos of modern Frankfurt. And<br />
we have added the historical city map by<br />
Matthäus Merian dated 1761, as well as a section<br />
from a map dated 1822 to our special edition.<br />
If we inspire you to take a walk through the<br />
<strong>Mozart</strong>’s Frankfurt we describe, then perhaps you<br />
will be able to recreate the vanished houses in<br />
your <strong>im</strong>agination.<br />
11
WHERE THE MOZART LIVED AND WORKED<br />
A WALK THROUGH FRANKFURT<br />
1. THE MAINBRÜCKE (MAIN BRIDGE)<br />
1. THE MAIN BRÜCKE (MAIN<br />
BRIDGE, NOW «ALTE BRÜCKE»<br />
– OLD BRIDGE)<br />
The «Mainbrücke» was an <strong>im</strong>portant traffic route<br />
in the 18th and 19th century. For centuries, it was<br />
the only direct connection between Sachsenhausen<br />
and the trade fair centre.A few steps away<br />
from here in 1790, <strong>Mozart</strong> stayed at the «Gasthof<br />
zu den drei Rindern» (Three Bulls Inn) at 26<br />
Brückenstrasse – «zu Tod froh, daß wir ein Z<strong>im</strong>mer<br />
erwischt haben» (so happy that we managed to<br />
snatch a room). Schiller also stayed here once.<br />
Today the inn is no longer here. Brückenstrasse<br />
has buildings on only one side and in the place<br />
where <strong>Mozart</strong> spent the night, the traffic roars<br />
through Walter-Kolb-Strasse.<br />
The day after his arrival in 1790, <strong>Mozart</strong> crossed<br />
the Mainbrücke to look for a more suitable residence<br />
in the city centre. In 1763, the <strong>Mozart</strong><br />
family had travelled across this bridge in the<br />
opposite direction. On their trips to the<br />
«Deutschordenshaus» (House of the Teutonic<br />
Order) and the «Forsthaus» (Forester’s Lodge),<br />
they crossed the Main and passed through the<br />
<strong>im</strong>pressive city gates on both sides of the bridge,<br />
which are illustrated on the old Merian map.<br />
The Mainbrücke was replaced by a new structure<br />
in 1926. If you stand at about the middle of the<br />
bridge, your gaze will fall first on the futuristic<br />
skyline of modern Frankfurt. What must it have<br />
looked like here in <strong>Mozart</strong>’s t<strong>im</strong>e?<br />
12
Frankfurt was a small, winding, medieval city<br />
with lots of half-t<strong>im</strong>bered houses, pointed gables<br />
and 55 fortified towers.There were, however, very<br />
few <strong>im</strong>pressive church spires, something, which<br />
many visitors in the 18th century disapproved of.<br />
The densely populated city centre formed the<br />
heart of the city. Sachsenhausen was enclosed<br />
within the circular city wall built in 1390 and is<br />
clearly visible on the old Merian map. In 1793,<br />
the city began to spread beyond the walls. The<br />
fortifications were opened and converted into<br />
walkways and gardens.This is how the city looked<br />
like when <strong>Mozart</strong>’s son Franz Xaver got to know<br />
it. Many houses in the old city had slate roofs,<br />
which shone beautifully in the evening sunshine.<br />
Above: The old bridge over the Main between Frankfurt and Sachsenhausen in<br />
a view from 1747. On the right and left are the <strong>im</strong>pressive towers, as they<br />
can also be seen on the old Merian map of 1761. The medieval structure with<br />
its many arches was only eight metres wide, which must have resulted in a<br />
bit of a crush here during trade fair t<strong>im</strong>es. The old bridge was replaced by a<br />
new structure in 1926.<br />
Left: The «Gasthof zu den drei Rindern» (Three Bulls Inn) in 26 Brückenstrasse,<br />
historical photograph. Even centuries later, the boast that Schiller and<br />
<strong>Mozart</strong> stayed here for one night was still meant to draw in the guests.<br />
Below : The Old Bridge today, in the background the spire of the <strong>im</strong>perial<br />
Cathedral of St. Bartholomäus, which was covered in scaffolding at the t<strong>im</strong>e<br />
of the photo.
Franckfurt is an old-fashioned city and the Römer<br />
is nothing like I <strong>im</strong>agined: Neither the square nor<br />
the Römer itself is speaking to me.There are some<br />
beautiful buildings but they are few. On the other<br />
hand, there are fine merchants’ arches and as many<br />
as 1000 Jews.<br />
Leopold <strong>Mozart</strong> to Lorenz Hagenauer, 13th August 1763.<br />
Left: One of the two cranes on the banks of the Main, which<br />
<strong>im</strong>pressed Leopold <strong>Mozart</strong>, on a painting by Friedrich Wilhelm Hirt<br />
(1757). The first crane was documented as early as 1331. The<br />
tread wheel on the inside was kept going by labourers. Ships<br />
could be loaded and unloaded using the crane. A fee was payable<br />
for this, it was known as «Krangeld» (crane money).<br />
Above: The Römerberg in the 18th century. In earlier t<strong>im</strong>es, this<br />
was where the large city fairs took place. Wooden stalls and exhibition<br />
stands were packed with everything the world had to offer.<br />
At the t<strong>im</strong>e of the <strong>im</strong>perial coronations, Frankfurt citizens and<br />
thousands of visitors gathered here to watch the procession of<br />
the emperor and his entourage go from the Römer to the<br />
Cathedral and back and at the ceremony of the «Erzämter» to<br />
snatch a piece of roast ox or a few coins.
2. THE MAINKAI/FAHRTOR<br />
On the 10th of August 1763, the <strong>Mozart</strong> travelled<br />
on the market ship from Mainz to Frankfurt.<br />
They had left some of their luggage behind in<br />
Mainz. Frankfurt was only meant to be a short<br />
trip.They ended up staying three weeks. On the<br />
banks of the Main, the enormous cranes with<br />
which the goods were hoisted onto land <strong>im</strong>mediately<br />
struck them. These «drones» were worth<br />
an entry into Leopold’s travel diary.Two such cranes<br />
can be seen on the Merian city map of 1761.<br />
The painter, Friedrich Wilhelm Hirt recorded<br />
one of them in his view of the Mainkai in 1757.<br />
On the inside of the cranes, there was a large<br />
tread wheel that was kept going by labourers.<br />
2. THE MAINKAI/ FAHRTOR<br />
3. RÖMERBERG (TOWN HALL SQUARE)<br />
3. RÖMERBERG<br />
(CITY HALL SQUARE)<br />
What was Leopold <strong>Mozart</strong>’s <strong>im</strong>pression of the<br />
city? Shortly after he arrived, he wrote to his<br />
friends in Salzburg:<br />
«Franckfurt is an old-fashioned city and the Römer is<br />
nothing like I <strong>im</strong>agined: Neither the square nor the<br />
Römer itself is speaking to me.There are some beautiful<br />
buildings but they are few. On the other hand, there<br />
are fine merchants’ arches and as many as 1000 Jews».<br />
A harsh judgement perhaps, but also one which<br />
was typical for that t<strong>im</strong>e. Because in the 18th century,<br />
the irregular, fragmented architectural style<br />
of the Middle Ages was looked down on. The<br />
Römer, the middle and tallest of the three connected<br />
stepped-gable buildings was presumably<br />
named after the Roman traders who were<br />
accommodated here during the trade fair t<strong>im</strong>es or<br />
perhaps (as is occasionally reported) after one of<br />
its previous owners, who was meant to have made<br />
a pilgr<strong>im</strong>age to Rome. The building complex<br />
came into the possession of the city in 1405 and<br />
became the city hall. The parliament sat here<br />
during <strong>im</strong>perial coronations. The reconstructed,<br />
angular houses opposite, to the east side of the<br />
Römer, give a rough idea of how the Römerberg<br />
once looked. The houses had descriptive names:<br />
«Zum Engel» (The Angel), «Goldener Greif» (The<br />
Golden Griffin), «Wilder Mann» (The Wild<br />
Man). But Leopold <strong>Mozart</strong> had no eyes for the<br />
picturesque idyllic scene with its many weather<br />
vanes, house signs, colourfully painted or engraved<br />
doorways and gargoyle water spouts. He preferred<br />
the new architectural style – large, spacious<br />
houses such as those the rich traders built for<br />
themselves. Thus, many an old half-t<strong>im</strong>bered<br />
house was sacrificed for new style of building.<br />
15
Above left: Bendergasse in a drawing by Th. Wolter. The <strong>Mozart</strong> family<br />
lived in the third house on the left.<br />
Above right: This is how Bendergasse looks today.<br />
Below: Leopold <strong>Mozart</strong>’s scratched inscription on a window casement<br />
of the house at 3 Bendergasse: «<strong>Mozart</strong> Maître de la Musique de la<br />
Chapelle de Salzbourg avec Sa Famile le 12 Août 1763».<br />
4. BENDERGASSE 3 / SCHIRN<br />
16<br />
4. BENDERGASSE 3/SCHIRN<br />
Where today, the monumental structure of the<br />
new Schirn Exhibition Centre soars to the sky,<br />
there stood until 1944, right behind the «Alte<br />
Nikolaikirche» (Old Church of St. Nicholas) a<br />
small, angular house typical for the city – number<br />
3 Bendergasse. In 1763, it was the first residence<br />
of the <strong>Mozart</strong> family.The attic rooms were often<br />
rented to visitors. It was probably a «Mr.Wahler»<br />
from Frankfurt, who gave this accommodation to<br />
the <strong>Mozart</strong>.They had met h<strong>im</strong> in Munich.<br />
The house at 3 Bendergasse hid a very special treasure;<br />
an inscription by Leopold <strong>Mozart</strong>, which<br />
he must have scratched into the side of the window<br />
with his diamond ring.<br />
Leopold’s inscription is not the only one (other<br />
visitors also <strong>im</strong>mortalised themselves here), but it<br />
must surely be the most precious. In 1879, the<br />
window was removed and presented to the<br />
History Museum, which was a stroke of good<br />
luck, because in the bombings of the Second<br />
World War, the house was reduced to rubble and<br />
ash, as was the entire city centre. It was not until<br />
1942 that a plaque was erected here to commemorate<br />
<strong>Mozart</strong>’s stay in Frankfurt. The «<strong>Frankfurter</strong><br />
Zeitung» of the 22nd August 1942 read as<br />
follows:<br />
«One almost does not want to believe that <strong>Mozart</strong><br />
once lived here. The houses of Bendergasse are<br />
not those of Roseneck or the Römerberg. They<br />
are good middleclass Sunday best. In comparison<br />
to the colourful energy and quiet dreaminess of<br />
the others, it does not seem real that there was<br />
room enough here for the force of a great genius.<br />
Nevertheless, a melody resounds in them, not only<br />
the song of flowing life that pervades from the<br />
centuries of past coronation and trade fair visitors<br />
but also the sound of the view to the «Tuchgaden»<br />
and the «Schöppenbrunnen» (Schoeppen Fountain)<br />
and to the great expanse of the Cathedral towering<br />
upwards in the surrounding greenery».<br />
This melody has faded forever but the music of<br />
<strong>Mozart</strong>, in contrast, has survived all catastrophes.
5. KAISERDOM ST. BARTHOLOMÄUS<br />
(THE IMPERIAL CATHEDRAL OF<br />
ST. BARTHOLOMÄUS)<br />
After only a few days, the <strong>Mozart</strong> moved. On the<br />
way to their second residence, the view directly<br />
behind the Schirn opens onto the «Kaiserdom»<br />
(the <strong>im</strong>perial cathedral). In this place of worship,<br />
the German kings and emperors were elected and<br />
crowned. The coronation of Leopold II, which<br />
was to lead <strong>Mozart</strong> back to Frankfurt in 1790,<br />
also took place here.<br />
An <strong>im</strong>perial coronation - for Frankfurt, this<br />
always meant an <strong>im</strong>mense array of cultural and<br />
social events.The festivities would last for weeks,<br />
associated with an un<strong>im</strong>aginable display of grandeur.<br />
Church and political dignitaries drove<br />
through the streets in golden coaches. From morning<br />
until late at night, there were balls, fireworks,<br />
marches, receptions and festive concerts.<br />
Leopold II was crowned on the 9th of October<br />
1790. While «all the bells rang out, the trumpets blared<br />
and the kettledrums boomed and with perpetual shouting<br />
and cheering», the ruling classes proceeded into<br />
the cathedral.After the celebratory, extremely elaborate<br />
ritual, the emperor and his entourage<br />
made their way over a wooden bridge covered<br />
with a cloth to the banquet in the Römer. The<br />
public then hung about in the winding streets and<br />
lanes of the old city in their thousands.According<br />
to old tradition, on the square in front of the<br />
Römer, an ox roasted on the spit was «left to the<br />
mercy» of the people. Red and white wine also<br />
flowed in streams from the fountain, a mountain<br />
of oats was piled up for the people, coins were<br />
thrown. In Frankfurt, this was called the<br />
«Verrichtung der Erzämter». In the fights for the<br />
best pieces, it came to a few clouts and stabbings.<br />
Occasionally there were even meant to have been<br />
some deaths.<br />
5. «KAISERDOM» ST. BARTHOLOMÄUS<br />
(THE IMPERIAL CATHEDRAL OF ST. BARTHOLOMÄUS)<br />
Below: The newly crowned Emperor Leopold II under the portal of the Kaiserdom receives the homage of the city of Frankfurt, personified as a<br />
voluptuous female figure, who presents the emperor with the hearts of the ardent Frankfurt citizens on a salver. The angel at the top edge of the<br />
Illustration sounds «Vivat Leopoldus Secundus» on his trumpet, and in the background of the city panorama, the radiant sun rises. (Allegorical<br />
engraving by J.C. Berndt, 1790).<br />
Right: The Kaiserdom on an oil painting from around 1765.
6. THE GASTHOF ZUM GOLDENEN<br />
LÖWEN (GOLDEN LION INN),<br />
FAHRGASSE 27<br />
The «Gasthof zum Goldenen Löwen», one of the<br />
most fashionable addresses in Frankfurt, stood at<br />
41 Fahrgasse (today number 27). The house was<br />
rebuilt many t<strong>im</strong>es during the course of its history.Today,<br />
only a stone lion relief with an inscription<br />
and the lion fountain (erected in 1781) recall<br />
the once famous inn.<br />
It was normal for concert tickets to be sold in the<br />
place where the artist lived and so it seemed like<br />
a good idea to Leopold to make their accommodation<br />
here, in keeping with their social status. In<br />
the Gasthof zum Goldenen Löwen, the family<br />
made all kinds of interesting acquaintances.<br />
Leopold reports of a «woman dressed in Amazon<br />
clothes», who together with a «chamber maid»,<br />
coachman and servant came into the inn in a<br />
drunken state and of his fellow lodgers, among<br />
them the ambassador of Churtrier, a hussar captain<br />
from Brunswick and three English men, one of<br />
whom was in the habit of sw<strong>im</strong>ming in the Main<br />
before dinner and then appearing in the dining<br />
hall «like a babtized mouse».<br />
With the exception of Augsburg, where Leopold<br />
<strong>Mozart</strong> was born, Frankfurt was the only city on<br />
the great tour, which was not ruled by a prince.<br />
Frankfurt was a «free city» and an international<br />
trade centre.The visitors, the traders and last but<br />
not least the Jews, who lived in their own quarter,<br />
brought life to the city. During the fairs, the city<br />
was taken over by a colourful hustle and bustle.<br />
However in 1763, when the <strong>Mozart</strong> family were<br />
guests of the city, its economic circumstances<br />
were not the best. At the end of the Seven Year<br />
War, the French troops that had been stationed in<br />
Frankfurt were withdrawn, leaving behind an<br />
aching hole in the business life of the city. In<br />
August 1763, the massive bankruptcy of the<br />
Neufville brothers in Amsterdam shook the<br />
financial metropolis and led to a serious monetary<br />
crisis. Thirty businesses went bankrupt in<br />
Frankfurt alone and 95 more in Hamburg. «Now<br />
no-one trusts anyone until they know how serious the<br />
situation is for one or the other», wrote Leopold<br />
<strong>Mozart</strong> home.<br />
6. THE «GASTHAUS ZUM GOLDENEN LÖWEN»<br />
INN, FAHRGASSE 27<br />
Right: View of the Gasthof zum Goldenen Löwen in 41 Fahrgasse (today, no. 27) on a contemporary copper engraving.<br />
The philosopher Voltaire was also once put up in this elegant house in the summer of 1753. He was on the run from<br />
Potsdam, where he had fallen out of favour with Frederick the Great. He was seized only the day after he arrived<br />
and put under house arrest but later released. The <strong>Mozart</strong> family were obviously spared from such unpleasantness.<br />
Above: The stone lion in the doorway of 27 Fahrgasse still today recalls the great history of the house.
Our concert was on the 18th. It was good. It will be<br />
on again on the 22nd and on the 25th or the 26th<br />
…Everything turned out wonderfully! We praise God<br />
that by His grace we are healthy and adored everywhere.<br />
Leopold <strong>Mozart</strong> to Lorenz Hagenauer, 20th August 1763.<br />
Left: Leopold <strong>Mozart</strong>’s concert announcement<br />
in the «<strong>Frankfurter</strong> Frag- und<br />
Anzeigungs-Nachrichten» of the 16th of<br />
August 1763. A second announcement from<br />
the 30th of August speaks of the «general<br />
admiration that has never before been<br />
awakened in the souls of all listeners to<br />
such a degree as by the skill of the two<br />
children of Mr. Leopold <strong>Mozart</strong>, director<br />
of music at the Salzburg court orchestra,<br />
the like of which has never before been<br />
seen nor heard».<br />
7. SCHÄRFENGÄSSCHEN/<br />
CORNER OF HOLZGRABEN<br />
7. SCHÄRFENGÄSSCHEN/CORNER<br />
OF HOLZGRABEN<br />
But this evidently did not do any harm to the<br />
success of the <strong>Mozart</strong> concert venture.The people<br />
of Frankfurt loved the music, as the chronicler<br />
Johann Bernhard Müller affirms in 1750:<br />
«Here too, the love of music is very great. Since the<br />
renowned Mr.Telemann was here,this noble entertainment<br />
has received a very warm reception.There are few respectable<br />
families, where the children are not instructed on one<br />
instrument or another or in singing. Concerts are therefore<br />
very common both in distinguished houses and publicly<br />
and most of the t<strong>im</strong>e visiting and famous virtuosos can be<br />
heard, when they are passing through and staying here».<br />
The <strong>Mozart</strong> family also wanted to contribute to<br />
this «noble entertainment», so they announced<br />
their concert for the 18th of August in the<br />
«<strong>Frankfurter</strong> Frag- und Anzeigungs-Nachrichten»<br />
(an advertisement and notices newspaper).<br />
The concert took place in the «Scharffischen<br />
Saal» (Scharff’s Hall) behind the Liebfrauenberg.<br />
Today, a plain house with green metal doors and<br />
opposite the Capuchin monastery with its idyllic<br />
inner courtyard stands here. The Scharffische<br />
Saal was at the rear façade of Mrs. Scharff’s wine<br />
business in the «Haus zum Spangenberg»<br />
(Spangenberg House). Its owner had furnished it<br />
with «all appropriate and necessary comforts for weddings,<br />
balls and concerts as well as other permitted jollities<br />
and provided it with a wooden floor and two big<br />
chandeliers and eighteen silver-plated wall lamps together<br />
with the necessary clean chairs».<br />
19
Originally only one concert was planned but this<br />
became four and people were queuing for the<br />
concert tickets.<br />
Among the audience at the four concerts was the<br />
<strong>im</strong>perial councillor Johann Caspar Goethe with<br />
his fourteen-year-old son.<br />
«I saw <strong>Mozart</strong> when he was a 7-year-old lad, as he<br />
was giving a concert while passing through. I myself was<br />
about 14 years old I can still remember quite clearly the<br />
little man with his hairdo and sword…» (Johann<br />
Wolfgang Goethe to Johann Peter Eckermann,<br />
3rd February 1830).<br />
Between the concerts, the family had t<strong>im</strong>e for<br />
walks and sightseeing tours.<br />
Leopold <strong>Mozart</strong>’s travel diary lists the places of<br />
interest: Schnurgasse (this can still be seen on the<br />
Merian map but was built over later), the Zeil<br />
(where even then there were <strong>im</strong>portant businesses<br />
and shops), the «Rossmarkt» (horse market)<br />
and the market, the Römerberg of course and the<br />
Liebfrauenberg, the Capuchin and Dominican<br />
church, the Mainbrücke, the suburb of<br />
Sachsenhausen with the Deutschordenshaus and<br />
lastly the Forsthaus outside the city, a popular<br />
destination.<br />
In the 18th century, the entourage of the emperor<br />
and the barons gathered here for a celebratory<br />
procession on the occasion of the coronation.<br />
Nannerl wears an English hat for walking, as is the fashion for women in these<br />
parts. So when we walked through the streets in Salzburg, everybody gathered<br />
around, as though a rhinoceros was coming.<br />
Leopold <strong>Mozart</strong> to Lorenz Hagenauer, Frankfurt, 20th August, 1763.<br />
Leopold <strong>Mozart</strong> made <strong>im</strong>portant contacts in the<br />
rich city houses.Almost all distinguished dignitaries<br />
of the city had attended the concerts or had<br />
invited the <strong>Mozart</strong> to their homes, among them<br />
the <strong>im</strong>perial ambassador, Johann Anton von<br />
Pergen, the Lord Mayor Johann Isaac Mohrs,<br />
church dignitaries like Damian Friedrich<br />
Dumeiz, composers like David Otto, Johann<br />
Christoph Fischer and Maestro Francesco<br />
Maggiore, bankers and traders such as the<br />
Bethmann brothers, members of the Sarasin family<br />
and Abraham Chiron (to name but a few).<br />
On the 31st of August 1763, the family travelled<br />
back to Mainz on the market ship. From there,<br />
the tour continued over many cities – among<br />
them London and Paris.<br />
The unknown wife of a Frankfurt trader gave<br />
Leopold a letter of recommendation to take with<br />
h<strong>im</strong> to the diplomatic representative Friedrich<br />
Melchior Gr<strong>im</strong>m. This was meant to be able to<br />
open all doors for h<strong>im</strong> later in Paris.<br />
20
I saw <strong>Mozart</strong> when he was a<br />
7-year-old lad, as he was giving<br />
a concert while passing through.<br />
I myself was about 14 years old<br />
I can still remember quite clearly<br />
the little man with his hairdo<br />
and sword…<br />
Johann Wolfgang Goethe to Johann Peter Eckermann, 3rd February, 1830<br />
Above right: The seven-year-old <strong>Mozart</strong> on the piano. This is how he may<br />
have looked when Johann Wolfgang Goethe saw h<strong>im</strong>.<br />
Centre left: How Schärfengässchen/corner of Holzgraben look today<br />
Lower left: Leopold <strong>Mozart</strong>’s travel diary with the tabular notes on his stay<br />
in Frankfurt. It lists the most <strong>im</strong>portant places of interest and the most<br />
distinguished people.<br />
Lower right: The <strong>Mozart</strong> family playing music. <strong>Mozart</strong>’s father, Leopold, plays<br />
the violin, his sister Nannerl sings and Wolfgang plays piano. Engraving by<br />
J. B. Delafosse based on a Illustration by L.C. de Carmontelle (1763/64).
8. THE GASTHOF ZUM WEISSEN<br />
SCHWAN (WHITE SWAN INN),<br />
STEINWEG 12<br />
When Wolfgang Amadeus <strong>Mozart</strong> came back to<br />
Frankfurt in September 1790, he spent the<br />
second night of his stay in the «Gasthof zum<br />
Weißen Schwan», in the Steinweg. Nothing<br />
remains of this building either; we are standing in<br />
front of a modern office block.Today a wall-plaque<br />
commemorates only Bismarck’s peace settlement<br />
of 1871, which was signed in the «Zum<br />
Weißen Schwan».<br />
9. BACKHAUS, KALBÄCHER GASSE 10<br />
The very next day <strong>Mozart</strong> moved on:<br />
«Where do you think I’m staying – with Böhm in his<br />
very own house; Hofer too, we pay 30 florins a month,<br />
and that is still extraordinarily little. – we also have our<br />
meals here.»<br />
The theatre director Heinrich Böhm lived in the<br />
Kalbächer Gasse, known as «Fressgass’» (Chow<br />
Alley) in the old «Backhaus» (bakery). Bakeries,<br />
cake-shops and delicatessens have established<br />
themselves here again and again, right up to<br />
today. The accommodation was indeed rather<br />
cheap (and evidently not very comfortable). As a<br />
comparison: Mrs. Rat Goethe wrote in a letter to<br />
We<strong>im</strong>ar, that at the <strong>im</strong>perial coronation, eleven<br />
florins per night were to be expected, plus two<br />
florins for meals.<br />
<strong>Mozart</strong> had already known the theatre director<br />
Böhm for a long t<strong>im</strong>e. His troupe, alternating<br />
with two other companies provided the theatrical<br />
entertainment during the coronation period.<br />
If we believe the letters to Konstanze, <strong>Mozart</strong><br />
mainly worked, for the first days of his Frankfurt<br />
stay: he composed an adagio for an organ piece,<br />
in order to give his «dear little woman some gold in<br />
her hands» - possibly this was a commissioned<br />
piece for the waxworks of Count Deym in<br />
Vienna (KV 594).<br />
8. THE «WHITE SWAN» INN, STEINWEG 12<br />
9. «BACKHAUS», KALBÄCHER GASSE 10<br />
Above: 10 Kalbächer Gasse today. In the<br />
old Backhaus (bakery), <strong>Mozart</strong> lived<br />
with Böhm, the theatre director. Today<br />
it is a sought-after location for gourmet<br />
enthusiasts.<br />
Right: Wolfgang Amadeus <strong>Mozart</strong> as he<br />
composes, coat flung over the back of<br />
the chair, as if he were hit by musical<br />
inspiration on his way home- this is how<br />
the genius’s life appears to later generations.<br />
…To date, I have been living here quite undisturbed – don’t go out<br />
the whole morning, instead I stay in my hole of a room and write; -<br />
my whole amusement is the theatre, where I then meet enough<br />
acquaintances, from Vienna, Munich, Mannhe<strong>im</strong> and even Salzburg…<br />
<strong>Mozart</strong> to Konstanze, Frankfurt 3rd October 1790
Left: the Komödienplatz with the theatre<br />
(built 1782) in a view from 1793.<br />
<strong>Mozart</strong> and later his son Franz Xaver<br />
saw some performances here. Many of<br />
<strong>Mozart</strong>’s operas were performed in the<br />
Komödienhaus. In 1792 it became the<br />
«Frankfurt National Theatre» and was<br />
given its own ensemble. After the opening<br />
of the Opera - today the «Alte<br />
Oper» (Old Opera) - it was used as a<br />
playhouse.<br />
Below left: View from Kalbächer Gasse<br />
of Rathenauplatz today. On this spot<br />
stood the Komödienhaus.<br />
Below right: View of the auditorium and<br />
the stage of the Komödienhaus (around<br />
1800).<br />
10. RATHENAUPLATZ<br />
10. RATHENAUPLATZ<br />
The magnificent «Komödienhaus» (Comedy<br />
Theatre) stood at today’s – less <strong>im</strong>posing –<br />
Rathenauplatz and was seen as one of the most<br />
beautiful theatre constructions in Germany.<br />
«The new Komödienhaus does indeed do honour to the<br />
people of Frankfurt. It is enduring and built with taste.<br />
There are three rows of boxes in the half-circle, all boxes<br />
are (wall-) papered, equipped with reflective lights and<br />
there is also a spacious gallery for the people.»<br />
With these words of appreciation, the «Berliner<br />
Literatur- und Theaterzeitung» (Berlin Literature<br />
and Theatre Newspaper) reflected on the new<br />
theatre on 19th October 1782.<br />
At the t<strong>im</strong>e of the <strong>im</strong>perial coronation in 1790<br />
there were musical comedies and Italian operas:<br />
«Der Apotheker und der Doktor» as well as<br />
«Betrug durch Aberglauben» by Dittersdorf,<br />
Salieri’s «Axur, Re de Ormus» and «Der Talisman<br />
oder die Zigeuner», Benda’s «Romeo and Juliet»,<br />
Wranitzky’s «Oberon» and more. But nothing by<br />
<strong>Mozart</strong>.This is strange in so far as <strong>Mozart</strong>’s operas<br />
were performed in Frankfurt early on and with<br />
great success. The Kurmainz Acting Company<br />
wanted to perform his «Don Giovanni» on 5th of<br />
October, but this plan fell through for unknown<br />
reasons.Whether Leopold II h<strong>im</strong>self prevented a<br />
planned <strong>Mozart</strong> performance remains to be seen.<br />
23
11. KATHARINENKIRCHE (CHURCH<br />
OF ST. CATHERINE)<br />
On his walks through Frankfurt, <strong>Mozart</strong> also<br />
went to the «Katharinenkirche» (Church of St.<br />
Catherine), where to the disgruntlement of the<br />
old organist, he abandoned h<strong>im</strong>self to his musical<br />
fantasies (see quotation below).<br />
12. ZEIL<br />
The tranquil seclusion of the first few days was<br />
soon over. <strong>Mozart</strong> was passed around everywhere<br />
and began to be invited to dinner at some houses.<br />
«P.S.Yesterday I dined with the richest trader in the<br />
whole of Frankfurt, at Mr. Schweitzer’s», he tells<br />
Konstanze on the 3rd of October.<br />
Franz Maria Schweitzer, banker and silk-trader,<br />
built a magnificent palace on the Zeil from 1787-<br />
1792, which thereafter as the «Russischer Hof»<br />
(Russian Court) became one of the foremost<br />
addresses in the city. <strong>Mozart</strong> was also the guest of<br />
the distinguished city physician Johann Wilhelm<br />
Friedrich Dietz. The art enthusiast, Dietz, lived<br />
in a spacious house on the Zeil opposite the<br />
«Gasthof zum Römischen Kaiser» (Roman<br />
Emperor Inn) - on the corner of Schäfergasse -<br />
and was known for his joie de vivre and downright<br />
extravagant lifestyle (which ult<strong>im</strong>ately lost<br />
h<strong>im</strong> everything he owned). Here, <strong>Mozart</strong> also<br />
met Johann August Tabor, the tenant of the<br />
Komödienhaus and the chamberlain Ignaz von<br />
Beecké, a brilliant pianist.When he was not invited<br />
to somebody’s house, <strong>Mozart</strong> spent the evenings<br />
with his new Frankfurt friends in the «Kran»<br />
wine cellar in Bleidenstrasse. Of all these houses,<br />
we now only have historical illustrations.<br />
11. KATHARINENKIRCHE<br />
12. ZEIL<br />
One Sunday after the service had ended, <strong>Mozart</strong> comes to the<br />
organ choir of the Katharinenkirche and asked the old organist<br />
to be allowed play something on the organ. He sits down on the<br />
bench and followed the audacious flight of his <strong>im</strong>agination, when<br />
suddenly the old organist in the most discourteous of ways, pushes<br />
h<strong>im</strong> off the organ bench and says to the student:Take note of<br />
that last modulation that Mr. <strong>Mozart</strong> played. He wants to be<br />
a famous man and makes such crude violations against this<br />
pure movement?<br />
Quotation: Report of an old Frankfurt organist who had witnesses the scene as a young man
… - And it is all a lot of boasting,<br />
what they say about the free cities. –<br />
Indeed I am famous, admired and<br />
popular here; but there are a lot more<br />
penny pinchers here among the people<br />
than in Vienna.<br />
<strong>Mozart</strong> to Konstanze, Frankfurt, 8th of October 1790<br />
Above left: Advertisement for <strong>Mozart</strong>’s concert matinee on 15th October 1790. What exactly was played cannot be worked out with certainty.<br />
The financial success that <strong>Mozart</strong> hoped for, however, did not materialise.<br />
Right: The city physician, Johann Friedrich Wilhelm Dietz (1735 – 1805), in whose house <strong>Mozart</strong> was often a guest. He lived in a spacious house<br />
on the Zeil opposite the Gasthof zum Römischen Kaiser. He had some <strong>Mozart</strong> autographs, which are all lost.<br />
Below left: Hauptwache and Katharinenkirche.<br />
When <strong>Mozart</strong>’s concert could finally take place in<br />
the Komödienhaus on the 15th of October 1790,<br />
the high point of the coronation celebrations had<br />
already passed. Many of the guests had already left.<br />
«… My academy was today at 11 and although it turned<br />
out to be marvellous as regards admiration, it was<br />
lean in terms of money. Unluckily, there was a big dinner<br />
for a prince and a big manoeuvre of the Hesse<br />
troops… but despite all this, I was so popular and liked<br />
so much that they swore to give me another academy<br />
next Sunday – then on Monday, I’ll leave». <strong>Mozart</strong><br />
to Konstanze, Frankfurt, 15th of October 1790).<br />
The exact programme can no longer be positively<br />
made out. One of the three symphonies composed<br />
in 1788 – symphony in Es major KV 543,<br />
symphony in G minor KV 550 or symphony in<br />
C Major KV 551 may well have been played or<br />
also the piano concerto in F major KV 459 or<br />
that in D major KV 537 as well as the arias of<br />
other composers. <strong>Mozart</strong>’s free <strong>im</strong>provisation was<br />
a particular highlight. The concert was cut short<br />
before the last symphony announced – the concert<br />
had lasted three hours and stomachs in the<br />
audience were rumbling.<br />
The three Frankfurt newspapers - «Journal»,<br />
«Oberpostamtszeitung» and «Staats-Ristretto» –<br />
reported in detail every day about the social<br />
events surrounding the <strong>im</strong>perial coronation.They<br />
took no notice of <strong>Mozart</strong>’s «academy». The<br />
second concert did not take place. <strong>Mozart</strong> left on<br />
the 16th of October.<br />
25
Left: Behind the Schl<strong>im</strong>me Mauer: Here was the Peterssche Haus,<br />
where Johann Nepomuk Schelble had lived.<br />
Right: Today the city looks like this: New built Telekom house<br />
Stiftstraße 25.<br />
13. STIFTSTRASSE<br />
14. ZEIL<br />
13. STIFTSTRASSE/CORNER OF<br />
STEPHANSTRASSE<br />
Thirty years later, in early December 1820,<br />
<strong>Mozart</strong>’s youngest son, Franz Xaver Wolfgang<br />
arrived in Frankfurt in the course of his threeyear<br />
concert tour. He too wanted to make his fortune<br />
in the free city. Johann Nepomuk Schelble,<br />
the famous singer and founder of the Frankfurt<br />
Cäcilien-Verein, considered it an exceptional<br />
honour to put up <strong>Mozart</strong>’s youngest son in his<br />
house. Schelble lived in the Peter’s house «Hinter<br />
der Schl<strong>im</strong>men Mauer» (behind the Schl<strong>im</strong>m<br />
wall). Choir rehearsals and small concerts took<br />
place here. It now looks quite different here.The<br />
Schl<strong>im</strong>m wall no longer exists. Nearby, the<br />
German Telekom resides in a new building which<br />
constitutes a clear-cut emblem of the modern<br />
Frankfurt with its cool glass architecture.<br />
14. ZEIL – FORMER MAIN<br />
POST OFFICE<br />
On the 5th of December - the anniversary of<br />
<strong>Mozart</strong>’s death – the Cäcilien-Verein performed<br />
the Requiem in the Rothe Haus on the Zeil in<br />
the presence of Franz Xaver <strong>Mozart</strong> – curiously<br />
without an orchestra, because the musicians had<br />
to play «The Marriage of Figaro» on the same<br />
evening.<br />
The new Rothe Haus building (Zeil lit. D 21-23,<br />
later no. 52) was opened in 1769. Later, the main<br />
post office was located here. The whole area is<br />
currently being redeveloped. Johann Wolfgang<br />
Goethe and the heir to the throne, Karl August<br />
von We<strong>im</strong>ar met in the Rothe Haus. It was used<br />
for concerts and for a t<strong>im</strong>e even as a kind of casino.<br />
On the 15th of December 1820, the young<br />
26
<strong>Mozart</strong> h<strong>im</strong>self gave a concert in this house, again<br />
with the participation of the Cäcilien-Verein.<br />
In contrast to the «academy» of his father thirty<br />
years earlier, this concert was met with lively<br />
accla<strong>im</strong>.<br />
«Frankfurt am Main.The concert of Mr. <strong>Mozart</strong> was<br />
one of the most dazzling and most attended in recent<br />
t<strong>im</strong>es. The pieces presented by the concert-giver of his<br />
composition confirmed his talent and thorough knowledge<br />
of composition. It must be said that the first allegro<br />
of a piano concerto was indeed particularly excellent,<br />
and the variations on a Russian theme attested to his<br />
taste and <strong>im</strong>agination. – The performance of the great<br />
<strong>Mozart</strong> symphony in C with the fugue went perfectly<br />
and fired the enthusiasm of the audience. Mr. Schelble<br />
sang two arias from Titus with his renowned excellence…<br />
The concert was finished with a cantata by <strong>Mozart</strong> not<br />
previously heard here, which was excellently performed<br />
by the members of the Cäcilien-Verein». This is how<br />
the «Leipziger Allgemeine Musikalische Zeitung»<br />
(Leipzig general music newspaper) reported on<br />
the concert.<br />
Left: The Zeil with the Rothe Haus. Here Franz Xaver saw a memorable<br />
performance of <strong>Mozart</strong>’s Requiem by the Cäcilien-Verein. The room was<br />
draped in black and solemnly lit, the audience turned up in mourning<br />
clothes, poems were recited. Ten days later, Franz Xaver h<strong>im</strong>self gave<br />
a concert in the Rothe Haus and was enthusiastically celebrated.<br />
Below: Franz Xaver Wolfgang <strong>Mozart</strong><br />
This evening we had the so solemn but moving remembrance<br />
celebration for my father. In a room draped in<br />
black, the Cäcilien-Verein choir sang my father’s<br />
Requiem with extraordinary precision and wonderful<br />
presentation. Nothing more could have been wished for,<br />
except an orchestra accompan<strong>im</strong>ent, which with the<br />
excellence of the local orchestra would have had a<br />
marvellous added effect.Although only supported<br />
by piano, many tears did flow.<br />
From the travel diary of Franz Xaver <strong>Mozart</strong>, 5th December 1820.
This morning I left Frankfurt, where<br />
I have spent many wonderful hours,<br />
but which I owe all to Schelble and<br />
some other members of the association.<br />
The rest of the people, all leathery<br />
traders’ souls did not pay attention<br />
at all to me.<br />
From the travel diary of Franz Xaver <strong>Mozart</strong>, 3rd January 1821.<br />
Above: Johann Nepomuk Schelble (1789 – 1837), famous singer and leader of the Cäcilien-Verein. Franz Xaver <strong>Mozart</strong><br />
stayed at his house during this stay in Frankfurt.<br />
Left: Marianne Willemer (1784 – 1860), one of the founders of the Cäcilien-Verein. She was friends with Johann<br />
Wolfgang Goethe, had an <strong>im</strong>portant part in his «Westöstlicher Divan» and reported in her letters a lot about the<br />
work of the Cäcilien-Verein. Franz Xaver <strong>Mozart</strong> was often a guest at the house of Marianne and her husband.<br />
Below left: In this Haus zum Rothen Männchen between Mainzer Gasse and Mainkai, Johann Jakob and Marianne<br />
Willemer had their city residence. Later, sw<strong>im</strong>ming baths were located here.<br />
Below right: The publisher Johann André (1775 – 1842). He acquired <strong>Mozart</strong>’s estate and published many works,<br />
which until then had never been published. Franz Xaver visited h<strong>im</strong> in December 1820.
15. ALTE MAINZER GASSE (OLD<br />
MAINZ LANE) / MAINKAI (MAIN<br />
QUAY) 35<br />
During his stay in Frankfurt, Franz Xaver <strong>Mozart</strong><br />
met with the most <strong>im</strong>portant personalities of the<br />
music-loving Frankfurt middle class.He was invited<br />
for dinner with Wilhelm Manskopf, played music<br />
at the home of the Passavant family and made<br />
trips to Offenbach to see the publisher, Johann<br />
André.He met the composer Franz Xaver Schnyder<br />
von Wartensee and the concertmaster Heinrich<br />
Hoffmann. In the theatre – it was still the beautiful<br />
Komödienhaus, in which his father had once<br />
given a concert – he saw the «Kalif von Bagdad»<br />
by Boieldieu and Süßmayr’s musical comedy<br />
«Sol<strong>im</strong>an der Zweite oder Die drei Sultaninnen».<br />
The young <strong>Mozart</strong> was also the guest of the<br />
Neufville family. These were the descendants of<br />
those bankers, about whose bankruptcy in 1763,<br />
grandfather Leopold had reported.<br />
Marianne Willemer played a not inconsiderable<br />
role in the Frankfurt music life. She had been the<br />
driving force behind the foundation of the<br />
Cäcilien-Verein and in this way also hoped to<br />
regain the interest of Johann Wolfgang Goethe in<br />
the cultural life of the city. In her letters to<br />
Goethe, she often speaks of Schelble and the<br />
work of the choir. Franz Xaver <strong>Mozart</strong> was the<br />
guest of the Willemers many t<strong>im</strong>es – probably in<br />
the house at the front of the Main and not in the<br />
Gerbermühle.<br />
15. ALTE MAINZER GASSE/<br />
MAINKAI 35<br />
Johann Jakob von Willemer acquired the house<br />
«Zum Rothen Männchen» (the little red man) -<br />
originally «Mündelein» - in 1796. It stretched<br />
from 5 Alte Mainzer Gasse to 35 Mainkai. In the<br />
generously designed rooms of this stately house,<br />
the Willemer family could display a dignified luxury.The<br />
landing place for the ships was directly in<br />
front of its windows. One could see the large cranes,<br />
which Leopold <strong>Mozart</strong> had admired in 1763.<br />
They were in use well into the 19th century.<br />
Franz Xaver founded his own Cäcilien-Verein,<br />
and Johann Nepomuk Schelble wrote in <strong>Mozart</strong>’s<br />
notebook:<br />
«Take, dear friend, on your leaving, all my love and<br />
admiration with you! You were only given to me for a<br />
short t<strong>im</strong>e but what I received is everlasting. May heaven<br />
bring us together again soon and if it is possible,<br />
forever».<br />
After «quite a boring» New Year’s Eve with the<br />
Bernard family and various goodbye visits, Franz<br />
Xaver <strong>Mozart</strong> left Frankfurt on the 3rd of January<br />
1821. His conclusion (quotation on page 24)<br />
hints at the words of his father – it was «all a lot<br />
of boasting», what they said about the free cities.<br />
Nevertheless, because of the Cäcilien-Verein, the<br />
Frankfurt music life was in full bloom. At home,<br />
29
MOZART 2006<br />
On the event of the <strong>Mozart</strong> year 2006,The <strong>Frankfurter</strong> Bürgerstiftung is planning various events;<br />
readings, lectures, concerts and an exhibition in the Holzhausenschlösschen and at other locations.<br />
Many aspects that could only be touched within the range of this city guide will be extended.<br />
Please see www.holzhausenschloesschen.de for further information.<br />
Here you will find the most <strong>im</strong>portant events of different organisers of the <strong>Mozart</strong> year at Frankfurt<br />
and in the Rhein-Main area as well as indications to research projects, exhibitions and other things<br />
regarding <strong>Mozart</strong> at Frankfurt:<br />
www.mozart-in-frankfurt.de<br />
Internationale Stiftung <strong>Mozart</strong>eum Salzburg:<br />
www.mozarteum.at<br />
An event calendar of other cities can be found on the web page of the «European <strong>Mozart</strong> Ways».<br />
You can also follow <strong>Mozart</strong>’s journey through Europe with a map:<br />
www.mozart2006.at<br />
30<br />
PHOTO CREDITS<br />
Pages 1 (Cover Illustration), 10 above, 10 left, 10 right, 19, 21 right above, 21 right below, 22, 27 below, 28 above: Johann Christian<br />
Senckenberg Library of the University Frankfurt am Main<br />
Pages 2f., 5, 6, 8f., 13 left, 14 left, 14 above, 16 above left, 16 below, 17 below, 17 right, 18, 23 left, 23 below right, 24 above right, 24<br />
below right, 26 above left, 26 middle, 28 below left: Historisches Museum Frankfurt am Main<br />
Pages 12, 25 above right: Description of the actual state of the free <strong>City</strong> of Franckfurt am Mayn, by Johann Bernhard Müller at<br />
Franckfurt am Mayn, 1747. (Johann Christian Senckenberg Library of the University Frankfurt am Main)<br />
Pages 21, below left, 25 above left, 28 below right: By Albert Richard Mohr:The Frankfurt <strong>Mozart</strong> Book, Frankfurt am Main, 1968<br />
Photos by: Sabine Teuschner,Vividprojects
Design: www.vividprojects.de<br />
FOUNDATION MAKES HISTORY<br />
The <strong>Frankfurter</strong> Bürgerstiftung with its domicile in the Holzhausenschlösschen was founded by citizens of Frankfurt as an example<br />
and <strong>im</strong>pulse of Frankfurt’s rich cultural life in view of the 1200 years old history of the city and for the illustration of the history of<br />
the citizens, their various initiatives, institutions and foundations.<br />
The <strong>Frankfurter</strong> Bürgerstiftung, founded in 1989, sees its tasks in revive the traditions of foundations in our old city, and therefore likes<br />
to instigate others to donate by setting an example.<br />
The <strong>Frankfurter</strong> Bürgerstiftung works without subsidies from city or government.The focus is on research about different families,<br />
characters, institutions and their foundations as well as the approx<strong>im</strong>ately 200 cultural events per year, in the areas of music, lectures,<br />
recitals, events for children and expositions. Every first Saturday in September, in honour of the founder Adolph Freiherr von<br />
Holzhausen, a big festival for children is financed and organised by the <strong>Frankfurter</strong> Bürgerstiftung. In his last will and testament dated<br />
19th April 1923, Baron von Holzhausen wrote: «This festival is to take place every year in remembrance of my birthday on the 7th<br />
September or the beginning of September, organised by the city of Frankfurt, my legatee, for the children of the neighbourhood, and<br />
in particular, myself and the Freiherren of Holzhausen shall be mentioned with dignity in a speech.» The <strong>Frankfurter</strong> Bürgerstiftung<br />
picked up the thought about sixty years after the decease of the founder and also interceded on behalf of the founder for other projects:The<br />
Bürgerstiftung renovated the old entrance gate to the Holzhausenschlösschen, shaped the <strong>im</strong>mediate environment of the little<br />
castle in the old style and, not to forget, in the year 1994, carried out comprehensive renovation of the Holzhausenschlösschen.<br />
According to the <strong>Frankfurter</strong> Bürgerstiftung, «to found something» does not only mean the donation of money and goods, but also<br />
the input of ideas, farsighted spirit of enterprise, t<strong>im</strong>e, social commitment, in short, all private initiatives which characterise the cultural<br />
life of Frankfurt am Main. As a result, a manifold, interesting foundation programme with numerous cultural and scientific activities<br />
can be found. (For more information, please visit www.holzhausenschloesschen.de and see the monthly programme.)<br />
The Holzhausenschlösschen has developed to be a meeting point of many foundations based at Frankfurt and to an interesting forum<br />
for the citizens of our city.Welcome!<br />
FRANKFURTER BÜRGERSTIFTUNG IM HOLZHAUSENSCHLÖSSCHEN<br />
JUSTINIANSTR. 5 • 60322 FRANKFURT/MAIN<br />
TEL. (069) 55 77 91 • FAX (069) 59 88 05<br />
WWW.HOLZHAUSENSCHLOESSCHEN.DE