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556 THE MEAT MARKET<br />
<strong>SEASON</strong> <strong>TO</strong> <strong>TASTE</strong>: <strong>HERB</strong> <strong>AND</strong> <strong>SPICE</strong> <strong>CHART</strong><br />
A<br />
perfect tomato can taste of France, Italy, India,<br />
South America, or the American Southwest<br />
with just the right combination of fresh<br />
herbs and spices. Like a magic palette, they color the<br />
simplest of foods and turn ordinary dishes into<br />
extraordinary ones. They are the key to New Basics.<br />
<strong>HERB</strong> OR <strong>SPICE</strong> BEST USE AVAILABLE GROW (in average garden)<br />
ALL<strong>SPICE</strong><br />
Dried spice berries,<br />
slightly larger than<br />
peppercorns. Allspice<br />
tastes of cinnamon,<br />
cloves, and nutmeg—<br />
therefore, the name.<br />
ANISE<br />
Small, licorice-flavored<br />
seeds.<br />
BASIL<br />
Herb with sweet<br />
clove-like taste. Varieties<br />
include sweet basil,<br />
small-leaved bush basil,<br />
dark opal, and lemon<br />
basil.<br />
BAY LEAF<br />
Pungent, woodsy herb<br />
with sturdy leaves and<br />
faint cinnamon taste.<br />
BORAGE<br />
Leafy herb tasting faintly<br />
of cucumbers.<br />
Excellent in spice cakes<br />
and cookies; plum,<br />
peach, and apple pies;<br />
breads; steamed<br />
puddings; and barbecue<br />
sauce, ketchup, pickles,<br />
sausages, pates, and<br />
corned beef.<br />
Use in cookies, breads,<br />
and cakes.<br />
Essential herb for Italian<br />
food, especially with<br />
eggs, tomatoes, pasta,<br />
chicken, fish, and<br />
shellfish.<br />
Essential for bouquet<br />
garni. Good with meat<br />
and/or bean stews,<br />
game, pot roasts; adds<br />
unusual note to rice<br />
pudding and custards.<br />
Young leaves are<br />
wonderful in<br />
salads—both green and<br />
fruit—with string beans,<br />
in fruit drinks and teas.<br />
Blue flowers are sweet<br />
tasting and a very pretty<br />
garnish.<br />
Dried whole berries and<br />
ground<br />
Dried whole seeds and<br />
ground<br />
Fresh sprigs and<br />
crumbled dried<br />
Dried whole leaves<br />
In some vegetable<br />
markets<br />
No<br />
No<br />
Indoors and out<br />
Indoors and out Bay is a<br />
perennial herb but will<br />
not overwinter in harsh<br />
climates.<br />
Indoors and out. Pick<br />
leaves when small and<br />
young; older leaves are<br />
tougher and hairy.
<strong>SEASON</strong> <strong>TO</strong> <strong>TASTE</strong> 557<br />
<strong>HERB</strong> OR <strong>SPICE</strong> BEST USE AVAILABLE GROW (in average garden)<br />
CARAWAY<br />
Nutty, licorice-flavored<br />
seeds.<br />
CARDAMOM<br />
Fragrant cinnamon-like<br />
seed popular in baked<br />
goods and Indian<br />
cuisine.<br />
CAYENNE<br />
Red pepper of the<br />
capsicum family most<br />
often used dried.<br />
CELERY SEEDS<br />
Dried seed tasting<br />
strongly of celery.<br />
CHERVIL<br />
Delicate herb with subtle<br />
celery-licorice taste.<br />
CHILI POWDER<br />
Commercial mix of<br />
ground chile peppers,<br />
cumin, oregano, and<br />
other herbs and spices.<br />
CHIVES<br />
Delicate herb with light<br />
onion or garlic taste.<br />
Decorative as well as<br />
useful garden herb.<br />
Use with eggs, cheese<br />
spreads, and dips; with<br />
noodles; in rye bread,<br />
cole slaw, and<br />
sauerbraten; and with<br />
cooked vegetables—<br />
potatoes, beets, carrots,<br />
cabbage, turnips, and<br />
winter squash.<br />
Use in spice cakes and<br />
cookies, apple and<br />
pumpkin pies, curries;<br />
with winter squash and<br />
sweet potatoes.<br />
Use in any dish for a<br />
little heat, especially with<br />
eggs and cheese. Add<br />
cayenne by the pinch.<br />
Excellent in<br />
salads—potato, cole slaw,<br />
and vegetable.<br />
Excellent in green salads;<br />
with fish, shellfish,<br />
chicken, eggs, cream,<br />
peas, string beans, and<br />
tomatoes. Essential for<br />
fines herbes.<br />
Use in bean and meat<br />
stews and soups; with<br />
eggs and cheese.<br />
Excellent in cream soups<br />
and sauces; with fish and<br />
shellfish, cheese, and<br />
eggs.<br />
Dried whole seeds<br />
Dried whole seeds and<br />
ground<br />
Dried whole pods, but<br />
more usually ground<br />
(also labeled simply<br />
"ground red pepper")<br />
Dried whole seeds<br />
Fresh sprigs and<br />
crumbled dried<br />
Ground<br />
Fresh stalks; frozen and<br />
freeze-dried, minced, or<br />
chopped<br />
Outdoors<br />
No<br />
Outdoors<br />
No<br />
Indoors and out<br />
No<br />
Indoors and out
558 THE MEAT MARKET<br />
<strong>HERB</strong> OR <strong>SPICE</strong> BEST USE AVAILABLE GROW (in average garden)<br />
CINNAMON<br />
Spice bark of the cassia<br />
tree, sweet hot flavor.<br />
CLOVE<br />
Spice of winter holidays,<br />
pungent and sweet<br />
CORI<strong>AND</strong>ER/CILANTRO<br />
Nutty-tasting seeds are<br />
called coriander. Cilantro<br />
is the herb and tastes<br />
refreshingly soapy.<br />
CUMIN<br />
Small, hot, bitter seed.<br />
Use in spice cakes,<br />
cookies, fruit and squash<br />
pies, custards; with fruit<br />
for sauce and conserves;<br />
carrots, winter squash,<br />
and sweet potatoes.<br />
A few whole cloves stuck<br />
in an onion flavor stocks,<br />
and more are pressed<br />
into the scored fat of a<br />
ham, but most are added<br />
ground to spice cakes<br />
and cookies, quick<br />
breads, fruit pies, and<br />
sauces. Use judiciously<br />
with sweet potatoes,<br />
winter squash, carrots,<br />
and pates.<br />
Use whole seeds for<br />
pickles and ground for<br />
baking. Cilantro is an<br />
essential herb for<br />
Mexican, Latin<br />
American, and Asian<br />
cooking. Use with rice,<br />
dried beans, fish,<br />
shellfish, poultry,<br />
vegetables, salsas, and<br />
salads. Add the fresh<br />
herb at the last minute<br />
before serving.<br />
Essential spice for curry<br />
and chili powder<br />
mixtures. Good with<br />
curried vegetables,<br />
beans, fish, lamb, and<br />
poultry, as well as with<br />
cheese, sausages,<br />
chutney, and yogurt dip.<br />
Dried whole sticks and<br />
ground<br />
Dried whole buds and<br />
ground<br />
Seeds: dried whole and<br />
ground<br />
Leaves: fresh<br />
Dried whole seeds and<br />
ground<br />
No<br />
No<br />
Outdoors. Hang cilantro<br />
flowers upside down over<br />
paper to gather seeds.<br />
No
<strong>SEASON</strong> <strong>TO</strong> <strong>TASTE</strong> 559<br />
<strong>HERB</strong> OR <strong>SPICE</strong> BEST USE AVAILABLE GROW (in average garden)<br />
DILL<br />
Seeds and herb have<br />
delicate caraway taste.<br />
Seeds are the more<br />
pungent.<br />
FENNEL SEEDS<br />
Slight licorice flavor,<br />
similar to dill and anise.<br />
FILE POWDER<br />
Herb ground from<br />
sassafras leaves, tasting<br />
like sassafras or root<br />
beer.<br />
FINES <strong>HERB</strong>ES<br />
French herb blend of<br />
parsley, chives, tarragon,<br />
and chervil.<br />
GINGER<br />
Versatile spice with bite<br />
and aroma. Important to<br />
dozens of cuisines from<br />
Jamaica to Germany to<br />
China.<br />
Both seeds and herb are<br />
used for pickles. Use<br />
seeds with rice and fish<br />
dishes and fresh dill<br />
leaves with eggs, fresh<br />
cheeses, yogurt, seafood,<br />
chicken, cucumbers,<br />
green beans, potatoes,<br />
tomatoes, and beets.<br />
Favorite for<br />
Scandinavian breads,<br />
cakes, cookies. Also good<br />
with oily fish (it cuts the<br />
oil), especially fish soup,<br />
and with vegetables, in<br />
salads and salad<br />
dressing.<br />
Seeds: dried whole<br />
Leaves: fresh and<br />
crumbled dried (dried<br />
leaves are sometimes<br />
labeled "dillweed")<br />
Dried whole seeds<br />
Essential for gumbo. Ground dried No<br />
Good with fish, poultry,<br />
eggs, and cheese.<br />
Use ground dried<br />
judiciously in cakes,<br />
cookies, fruit and squash<br />
pies, custard, rice, and<br />
marinades. Use<br />
crystallized and<br />
preserved ginger in cakes<br />
and cookies. Use fresh<br />
sliced or grated in<br />
marinades and with fish,<br />
poultry, pork, and<br />
vegetables.<br />
Crumbled dried leaves<br />
Dried ground, dried<br />
whole, crystallized,<br />
preserved, and fresh<br />
Outdoors<br />
Outdoors<br />
Herbs grow well indoors<br />
and out. They can be<br />
dried and blended or<br />
combined fresh.<br />
No
560 THE MEAT MARKET<br />
<strong>HERB</strong> OR <strong>SPICE</strong> BEST USE AVAILABLE GROW (in average garden)<br />
HYSSOP<br />
Pungent herb with minty<br />
taste. Decorative garden<br />
plant.<br />
JUNIPER<br />
Strong spice berries the<br />
size of small blueberries.<br />
Most are used in the<br />
making of gin.<br />
LAVENDER<br />
Herb with fresh clean<br />
scent.<br />
LEMON GRASS<br />
Straw-like stalk has<br />
woodsy, lemony flavor.<br />
LEMON BALM<br />
Herb with sweet lemon<br />
flavor and citrusy scent.<br />
LOVAGE<br />
Herb with sharp celery<br />
taste.<br />
MACE<br />
Lacy outer covering of<br />
nutmeg; flavor is similar<br />
to but slightly milder<br />
than nutmeg.<br />
Use flowers for garnish<br />
and young leaves in<br />
salads — both green and<br />
fruit.<br />
Use in marinades for<br />
fish, game, poultry, pork<br />
and beef, and in<br />
sauerkraut and<br />
choucroute.<br />
Excellent for sachets and<br />
potpourris but also good<br />
added judiciously to<br />
herbes de Provence, fruit,<br />
and iced tea.<br />
Essential herb of<br />
Indonesian and Near<br />
Eastern cooking. Use in<br />
fish, shellfish, chicken<br />
soup, salsas, and<br />
vinaigrettes. Low heat<br />
brings out the flavor.<br />
Excellent in summer<br />
soups, salads, jellies and<br />
jams, and with fruit.<br />
Use judiciously in salads<br />
and stock or soup.<br />
Good in spice cakes and<br />
cookies, custards, fruit<br />
desserts—especially<br />
plums, peaches, and<br />
apples—as well as with<br />
carrots, broccoli,<br />
Brussels sprouts, and<br />
cauliflower.<br />
Fresh sprigs in specialty<br />
markets<br />
Dried whole berries<br />
Fresh sprigs and dried<br />
whole leaves in specialty<br />
markets<br />
Fresh and dried stalks in<br />
specialty markets<br />
Fresh sprigs in specialty<br />
markets<br />
Fresh sprigs in specialty<br />
markets<br />
Dried blades and ground<br />
Outdoors<br />
No<br />
Best outdoors but will<br />
grow indoors<br />
No<br />
Indoors and out<br />
Outdoors<br />
No
<strong>SEASON</strong> <strong>TO</strong> <strong>TASTE</strong> 561<br />
<strong>HERB</strong> OR <strong>SPICE</strong> BEST USE AVAILABLE GROW (im average garen)<br />
MARJORAM<br />
Herb that is first cousin<br />
to oregano with similar<br />
but more delicate taste.<br />
MINT<br />
Herb with refreshing<br />
scent and cool taste. Of<br />
more than 30 varieties,<br />
peppermint and<br />
spearmint are best<br />
known. Lemon, orange,<br />
and apple mint have<br />
distinct fruit taste.<br />
NUTMEG<br />
Sweet, nutty spice seed<br />
of the nutmeg tree, the<br />
size of an olive.<br />
OREGANO<br />
Herb with pungent<br />
marjoram taste.<br />
PAPRIKA<br />
Ground spice of dried<br />
capsicum peppers.<br />
Use in almost any fish,<br />
meat, poultry, egg, or<br />
vegetable dish, and in<br />
tomato sauce.<br />
Use in Middle Eastern<br />
yogurt and grain dishes<br />
(tabbouleh), salads; with<br />
peas, beans, corn, and<br />
potatoes; in jellies, fruit<br />
salads, desserts, and iced<br />
tea.<br />
Best in cream sauces and<br />
soups, with vegetables—<br />
beans, broccoli, carrots,<br />
cauliflower, spinach,<br />
Brussels sprouts, onions<br />
—but especially for<br />
cakes, cookies, pies,<br />
pastries, custard, and of<br />
course, eggnog.<br />
Use with fish, meat,<br />
poultry, dried beans,<br />
cheese, eggs; in vegetable<br />
soup; with tomatoes,<br />
mushrooms, peppers,<br />
summer squash, and<br />
eggplant. Essential herb<br />
for Italian, Greek, and<br />
Mexican cooking.<br />
Good in cooked<br />
salads—especially potato<br />
and egg—salad dressing,<br />
dips; with fish, shellfish,<br />
and poultry. Essential for<br />
goulash and paprikash.<br />
Fresh sprigs, dried whole<br />
leaves, and crumbled<br />
dried<br />
Fresh sprigs and<br />
crumbled dried<br />
Whole seeds and ground<br />
Ground nutmeg quickly<br />
loses its flavor; buy<br />
whole nutmeg and grate<br />
as needed.<br />
Fresh sprigs and<br />
crumbled dried<br />
Ground dried<br />
Hungarian paprika is<br />
most flavorful and<br />
available sweet or hot.<br />
Indoors and out<br />
Indoon and out<br />
No<br />
Indoors and out<br />
No
562 THE MEAT MARKET<br />
<strong>HERB</strong> OR <strong>SPICE</strong> BEST USE AVAILABLE GROW (in average garden)<br />
PARSLEY<br />
Crisp herb with celery<br />
flavor. Of two common<br />
varieties—Italian flat leaf<br />
and curly leaf—flat leaf<br />
has the stronger flavor.<br />
Use curly parsley for<br />
garnishing.<br />
POPPY SEEDS<br />
Tiny blue-black seeds of<br />
the poppy flower.<br />
900,000 make a pound.<br />
ROSEMARY<br />
Needle-like leaves with<br />
strong piny scent and<br />
flavor.<br />
SAFFRON<br />
Fragrant spice that is the<br />
dried stigmas of crocus.<br />
Expensive because they<br />
are handpicked (about<br />
250,000 make a pound),<br />
but a little goes a long<br />
way. Too much saffron<br />
lends an unpleasant<br />
medicinal flavor.<br />
SAGE<br />
Herb with musky flavor.<br />
Silver-green leaves make<br />
sage a decorative garden<br />
plant.<br />
Excellent in soups,<br />
stocks, cream and tomato<br />
sauces, salads and salad<br />
dressings; with poultry,<br />
game, meats, fish, and<br />
shellfish, dried beans,<br />
and vegetables—from<br />
artichokes to zucchini.<br />
Use for cakes, pastries,<br />
cookies, breads, with<br />
noodles and fresh fruit.<br />
Best with game, poultry,<br />
and meats, especially<br />
grilled. Add judiciously<br />
to mushrooms, roasted<br />
potatoes, stuffing, olive<br />
oil breads and buns, and<br />
ripe melon.<br />
Use in paella,<br />
bouillabaisse, risotto,<br />
tomato and cream soups,<br />
couscous; with seafood;<br />
in Swedish cakes and<br />
breads.<br />
Excellent and best known<br />
for poultry stuffing. Use<br />
judiciously with chicken,<br />
duck, goose, pork,<br />
sausages, cheese,<br />
eggplant, and dried bean<br />
stews and soups.<br />
Fresh sprigs and<br />
crumbled dried. Fresh<br />
parsley is readily<br />
available; dried parsley is<br />
pale and dusty in<br />
comparison.<br />
Whole seeds and ground<br />
paste<br />
Fresh sprigs and whole<br />
dried<br />
Dried whole stigmas and<br />
ground. Dried whole<br />
saffron threads are of<br />
better quality.<br />
Fresh sprigs, dried whole<br />
leaves, crumbled dried,<br />
and ground<br />
Indoors and out<br />
No<br />
Best outdoors but will<br />
grow indoors<br />
No<br />
Best outdoors but will<br />
grow indoors
<strong>SEASON</strong> <strong>TO</strong> <strong>TASTE</strong> 563<br />
<strong>HERB</strong> OR <strong>SPICE</strong> BEST USE AVAILABLE GROW (in average garden)<br />
SALAD BURNET<br />
Lacy-leaved herb with a<br />
cucumber taste.<br />
SAVORY<br />
This peppery herb has<br />
two varieties—summer<br />
and winter. Summer<br />
savory is the more<br />
delicate and best suited<br />
for cooking.<br />
TARRAGON<br />
Herb with mild licorice<br />
flavor. French tarragon<br />
has subtlest flavor.<br />
THYME<br />
Herb with tiny leaves<br />
and minty, tea-like<br />
flavor. Many varieties<br />
include lemon, orange,<br />
English, and French<br />
thyme.<br />
TURMERIC<br />
Brilliant yellow ground<br />
spice.<br />
Use young small leaves<br />
in salads and with fresh<br />
cheeses.<br />
Europeans call savory the<br />
bean herb for its special<br />
affinity for limas, string<br />
beans, lentils, and dried<br />
beans. Also excellent in<br />
meatloaf and meatballs,<br />
sausages; with poultry,<br />
cheese, eggs, cauliflower,<br />
tomatoes, and onions.<br />
Best with chicken, veal,<br />
fish, shellfish, eggs; in<br />
mayonnaise and salad<br />
dressings; with tomatoes,<br />
mushrooms, and carrots.<br />
Essential herb of the<br />
bouquet garni as well as<br />
fish and clam chowder,<br />
sausages, pates, and<br />
stuffing. Excellent with<br />
fish and shellfish,<br />
poultry, tomatoes, beans,<br />
eggplant, mushrooms,<br />
potatoes, and summer<br />
squash.<br />
Essential to mustard,<br />
curry powder, pickles,<br />
and relishes; also used in<br />
moderation for its yellow<br />
color in rice dishes.<br />
Fresh sprigs in specialty<br />
markets<br />
Fresh sprigs and<br />
crumbled dried<br />
Fresh sprigs, dried whole<br />
leaves, and crumbled<br />
dried<br />
Fresh sprigs and<br />
crumbled dried<br />
Ground dried<br />
Outdoors<br />
Summer savory: indoors<br />
and out Winter savory:<br />
outdoors<br />
Indoors<br />
and out<br />
Indoors and out<br />
No