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SEASON TO TASTE: HERB AND SPICE CHART

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556 THE MEAT MARKET<br />

<strong>SEASON</strong> <strong>TO</strong> <strong>TASTE</strong>: <strong>HERB</strong> <strong>AND</strong> <strong>SPICE</strong> <strong>CHART</strong><br />

A<br />

perfect tomato can taste of France, Italy, India,<br />

South America, or the American Southwest<br />

with just the right combination of fresh<br />

herbs and spices. Like a magic palette, they color the<br />

simplest of foods and turn ordinary dishes into<br />

extraordinary ones. They are the key to New Basics.<br />

<strong>HERB</strong> OR <strong>SPICE</strong> BEST USE AVAILABLE GROW (in average garden)<br />

ALL<strong>SPICE</strong><br />

Dried spice berries,<br />

slightly larger than<br />

peppercorns. Allspice<br />

tastes of cinnamon,<br />

cloves, and nutmeg—<br />

therefore, the name.<br />

ANISE<br />

Small, licorice-flavored<br />

seeds.<br />

BASIL<br />

Herb with sweet<br />

clove-like taste. Varieties<br />

include sweet basil,<br />

small-leaved bush basil,<br />

dark opal, and lemon<br />

basil.<br />

BAY LEAF<br />

Pungent, woodsy herb<br />

with sturdy leaves and<br />

faint cinnamon taste.<br />

BORAGE<br />

Leafy herb tasting faintly<br />

of cucumbers.<br />

Excellent in spice cakes<br />

and cookies; plum,<br />

peach, and apple pies;<br />

breads; steamed<br />

puddings; and barbecue<br />

sauce, ketchup, pickles,<br />

sausages, pates, and<br />

corned beef.<br />

Use in cookies, breads,<br />

and cakes.<br />

Essential herb for Italian<br />

food, especially with<br />

eggs, tomatoes, pasta,<br />

chicken, fish, and<br />

shellfish.<br />

Essential for bouquet<br />

garni. Good with meat<br />

and/or bean stews,<br />

game, pot roasts; adds<br />

unusual note to rice<br />

pudding and custards.<br />

Young leaves are<br />

wonderful in<br />

salads—both green and<br />

fruit—with string beans,<br />

in fruit drinks and teas.<br />

Blue flowers are sweet<br />

tasting and a very pretty<br />

garnish.<br />

Dried whole berries and<br />

ground<br />

Dried whole seeds and<br />

ground<br />

Fresh sprigs and<br />

crumbled dried<br />

Dried whole leaves<br />

In some vegetable<br />

markets<br />

No<br />

No<br />

Indoors and out<br />

Indoors and out Bay is a<br />

perennial herb but will<br />

not overwinter in harsh<br />

climates.<br />

Indoors and out. Pick<br />

leaves when small and<br />

young; older leaves are<br />

tougher and hairy.


<strong>SEASON</strong> <strong>TO</strong> <strong>TASTE</strong> 557<br />

<strong>HERB</strong> OR <strong>SPICE</strong> BEST USE AVAILABLE GROW (in average garden)<br />

CARAWAY<br />

Nutty, licorice-flavored<br />

seeds.<br />

CARDAMOM<br />

Fragrant cinnamon-like<br />

seed popular in baked<br />

goods and Indian<br />

cuisine.<br />

CAYENNE<br />

Red pepper of the<br />

capsicum family most<br />

often used dried.<br />

CELERY SEEDS<br />

Dried seed tasting<br />

strongly of celery.<br />

CHERVIL<br />

Delicate herb with subtle<br />

celery-licorice taste.<br />

CHILI POWDER<br />

Commercial mix of<br />

ground chile peppers,<br />

cumin, oregano, and<br />

other herbs and spices.<br />

CHIVES<br />

Delicate herb with light<br />

onion or garlic taste.<br />

Decorative as well as<br />

useful garden herb.<br />

Use with eggs, cheese<br />

spreads, and dips; with<br />

noodles; in rye bread,<br />

cole slaw, and<br />

sauerbraten; and with<br />

cooked vegetables—<br />

potatoes, beets, carrots,<br />

cabbage, turnips, and<br />

winter squash.<br />

Use in spice cakes and<br />

cookies, apple and<br />

pumpkin pies, curries;<br />

with winter squash and<br />

sweet potatoes.<br />

Use in any dish for a<br />

little heat, especially with<br />

eggs and cheese. Add<br />

cayenne by the pinch.<br />

Excellent in<br />

salads—potato, cole slaw,<br />

and vegetable.<br />

Excellent in green salads;<br />

with fish, shellfish,<br />

chicken, eggs, cream,<br />

peas, string beans, and<br />

tomatoes. Essential for<br />

fines herbes.<br />

Use in bean and meat<br />

stews and soups; with<br />

eggs and cheese.<br />

Excellent in cream soups<br />

and sauces; with fish and<br />

shellfish, cheese, and<br />

eggs.<br />

Dried whole seeds<br />

Dried whole seeds and<br />

ground<br />

Dried whole pods, but<br />

more usually ground<br />

(also labeled simply<br />

"ground red pepper")<br />

Dried whole seeds<br />

Fresh sprigs and<br />

crumbled dried<br />

Ground<br />

Fresh stalks; frozen and<br />

freeze-dried, minced, or<br />

chopped<br />

Outdoors<br />

No<br />

Outdoors<br />

No<br />

Indoors and out<br />

No<br />

Indoors and out


558 THE MEAT MARKET<br />

<strong>HERB</strong> OR <strong>SPICE</strong> BEST USE AVAILABLE GROW (in average garden)<br />

CINNAMON<br />

Spice bark of the cassia<br />

tree, sweet hot flavor.<br />

CLOVE<br />

Spice of winter holidays,<br />

pungent and sweet<br />

CORI<strong>AND</strong>ER/CILANTRO<br />

Nutty-tasting seeds are<br />

called coriander. Cilantro<br />

is the herb and tastes<br />

refreshingly soapy.<br />

CUMIN<br />

Small, hot, bitter seed.<br />

Use in spice cakes,<br />

cookies, fruit and squash<br />

pies, custards; with fruit<br />

for sauce and conserves;<br />

carrots, winter squash,<br />

and sweet potatoes.<br />

A few whole cloves stuck<br />

in an onion flavor stocks,<br />

and more are pressed<br />

into the scored fat of a<br />

ham, but most are added<br />

ground to spice cakes<br />

and cookies, quick<br />

breads, fruit pies, and<br />

sauces. Use judiciously<br />

with sweet potatoes,<br />

winter squash, carrots,<br />

and pates.<br />

Use whole seeds for<br />

pickles and ground for<br />

baking. Cilantro is an<br />

essential herb for<br />

Mexican, Latin<br />

American, and Asian<br />

cooking. Use with rice,<br />

dried beans, fish,<br />

shellfish, poultry,<br />

vegetables, salsas, and<br />

salads. Add the fresh<br />

herb at the last minute<br />

before serving.<br />

Essential spice for curry<br />

and chili powder<br />

mixtures. Good with<br />

curried vegetables,<br />

beans, fish, lamb, and<br />

poultry, as well as with<br />

cheese, sausages,<br />

chutney, and yogurt dip.<br />

Dried whole sticks and<br />

ground<br />

Dried whole buds and<br />

ground<br />

Seeds: dried whole and<br />

ground<br />

Leaves: fresh<br />

Dried whole seeds and<br />

ground<br />

No<br />

No<br />

Outdoors. Hang cilantro<br />

flowers upside down over<br />

paper to gather seeds.<br />

No


<strong>SEASON</strong> <strong>TO</strong> <strong>TASTE</strong> 559<br />

<strong>HERB</strong> OR <strong>SPICE</strong> BEST USE AVAILABLE GROW (in average garden)<br />

DILL<br />

Seeds and herb have<br />

delicate caraway taste.<br />

Seeds are the more<br />

pungent.<br />

FENNEL SEEDS<br />

Slight licorice flavor,<br />

similar to dill and anise.<br />

FILE POWDER<br />

Herb ground from<br />

sassafras leaves, tasting<br />

like sassafras or root<br />

beer.<br />

FINES <strong>HERB</strong>ES<br />

French herb blend of<br />

parsley, chives, tarragon,<br />

and chervil.<br />

GINGER<br />

Versatile spice with bite<br />

and aroma. Important to<br />

dozens of cuisines from<br />

Jamaica to Germany to<br />

China.<br />

Both seeds and herb are<br />

used for pickles. Use<br />

seeds with rice and fish<br />

dishes and fresh dill<br />

leaves with eggs, fresh<br />

cheeses, yogurt, seafood,<br />

chicken, cucumbers,<br />

green beans, potatoes,<br />

tomatoes, and beets.<br />

Favorite for<br />

Scandinavian breads,<br />

cakes, cookies. Also good<br />

with oily fish (it cuts the<br />

oil), especially fish soup,<br />

and with vegetables, in<br />

salads and salad<br />

dressing.<br />

Seeds: dried whole<br />

Leaves: fresh and<br />

crumbled dried (dried<br />

leaves are sometimes<br />

labeled "dillweed")<br />

Dried whole seeds<br />

Essential for gumbo. Ground dried No<br />

Good with fish, poultry,<br />

eggs, and cheese.<br />

Use ground dried<br />

judiciously in cakes,<br />

cookies, fruit and squash<br />

pies, custard, rice, and<br />

marinades. Use<br />

crystallized and<br />

preserved ginger in cakes<br />

and cookies. Use fresh<br />

sliced or grated in<br />

marinades and with fish,<br />

poultry, pork, and<br />

vegetables.<br />

Crumbled dried leaves<br />

Dried ground, dried<br />

whole, crystallized,<br />

preserved, and fresh<br />

Outdoors<br />

Outdoors<br />

Herbs grow well indoors<br />

and out. They can be<br />

dried and blended or<br />

combined fresh.<br />

No


560 THE MEAT MARKET<br />

<strong>HERB</strong> OR <strong>SPICE</strong> BEST USE AVAILABLE GROW (in average garden)<br />

HYSSOP<br />

Pungent herb with minty<br />

taste. Decorative garden<br />

plant.<br />

JUNIPER<br />

Strong spice berries the<br />

size of small blueberries.<br />

Most are used in the<br />

making of gin.<br />

LAVENDER<br />

Herb with fresh clean<br />

scent.<br />

LEMON GRASS<br />

Straw-like stalk has<br />

woodsy, lemony flavor.<br />

LEMON BALM<br />

Herb with sweet lemon<br />

flavor and citrusy scent.<br />

LOVAGE<br />

Herb with sharp celery<br />

taste.<br />

MACE<br />

Lacy outer covering of<br />

nutmeg; flavor is similar<br />

to but slightly milder<br />

than nutmeg.<br />

Use flowers for garnish<br />

and young leaves in<br />

salads — both green and<br />

fruit.<br />

Use in marinades for<br />

fish, game, poultry, pork<br />

and beef, and in<br />

sauerkraut and<br />

choucroute.<br />

Excellent for sachets and<br />

potpourris but also good<br />

added judiciously to<br />

herbes de Provence, fruit,<br />

and iced tea.<br />

Essential herb of<br />

Indonesian and Near<br />

Eastern cooking. Use in<br />

fish, shellfish, chicken<br />

soup, salsas, and<br />

vinaigrettes. Low heat<br />

brings out the flavor.<br />

Excellent in summer<br />

soups, salads, jellies and<br />

jams, and with fruit.<br />

Use judiciously in salads<br />

and stock or soup.<br />

Good in spice cakes and<br />

cookies, custards, fruit<br />

desserts—especially<br />

plums, peaches, and<br />

apples—as well as with<br />

carrots, broccoli,<br />

Brussels sprouts, and<br />

cauliflower.<br />

Fresh sprigs in specialty<br />

markets<br />

Dried whole berries<br />

Fresh sprigs and dried<br />

whole leaves in specialty<br />

markets<br />

Fresh and dried stalks in<br />

specialty markets<br />

Fresh sprigs in specialty<br />

markets<br />

Fresh sprigs in specialty<br />

markets<br />

Dried blades and ground<br />

Outdoors<br />

No<br />

Best outdoors but will<br />

grow indoors<br />

No<br />

Indoors and out<br />

Outdoors<br />

No


<strong>SEASON</strong> <strong>TO</strong> <strong>TASTE</strong> 561<br />

<strong>HERB</strong> OR <strong>SPICE</strong> BEST USE AVAILABLE GROW (im average garen)<br />

MARJORAM<br />

Herb that is first cousin<br />

to oregano with similar<br />

but more delicate taste.<br />

MINT<br />

Herb with refreshing<br />

scent and cool taste. Of<br />

more than 30 varieties,<br />

peppermint and<br />

spearmint are best<br />

known. Lemon, orange,<br />

and apple mint have<br />

distinct fruit taste.<br />

NUTMEG<br />

Sweet, nutty spice seed<br />

of the nutmeg tree, the<br />

size of an olive.<br />

OREGANO<br />

Herb with pungent<br />

marjoram taste.<br />

PAPRIKA<br />

Ground spice of dried<br />

capsicum peppers.<br />

Use in almost any fish,<br />

meat, poultry, egg, or<br />

vegetable dish, and in<br />

tomato sauce.<br />

Use in Middle Eastern<br />

yogurt and grain dishes<br />

(tabbouleh), salads; with<br />

peas, beans, corn, and<br />

potatoes; in jellies, fruit<br />

salads, desserts, and iced<br />

tea.<br />

Best in cream sauces and<br />

soups, with vegetables—<br />

beans, broccoli, carrots,<br />

cauliflower, spinach,<br />

Brussels sprouts, onions<br />

—but especially for<br />

cakes, cookies, pies,<br />

pastries, custard, and of<br />

course, eggnog.<br />

Use with fish, meat,<br />

poultry, dried beans,<br />

cheese, eggs; in vegetable<br />

soup; with tomatoes,<br />

mushrooms, peppers,<br />

summer squash, and<br />

eggplant. Essential herb<br />

for Italian, Greek, and<br />

Mexican cooking.<br />

Good in cooked<br />

salads—especially potato<br />

and egg—salad dressing,<br />

dips; with fish, shellfish,<br />

and poultry. Essential for<br />

goulash and paprikash.<br />

Fresh sprigs, dried whole<br />

leaves, and crumbled<br />

dried<br />

Fresh sprigs and<br />

crumbled dried<br />

Whole seeds and ground<br />

Ground nutmeg quickly<br />

loses its flavor; buy<br />

whole nutmeg and grate<br />

as needed.<br />

Fresh sprigs and<br />

crumbled dried<br />

Ground dried<br />

Hungarian paprika is<br />

most flavorful and<br />

available sweet or hot.<br />

Indoors and out<br />

Indoon and out<br />

No<br />

Indoors and out<br />

No


562 THE MEAT MARKET<br />

<strong>HERB</strong> OR <strong>SPICE</strong> BEST USE AVAILABLE GROW (in average garden)<br />

PARSLEY<br />

Crisp herb with celery<br />

flavor. Of two common<br />

varieties—Italian flat leaf<br />

and curly leaf—flat leaf<br />

has the stronger flavor.<br />

Use curly parsley for<br />

garnishing.<br />

POPPY SEEDS<br />

Tiny blue-black seeds of<br />

the poppy flower.<br />

900,000 make a pound.<br />

ROSEMARY<br />

Needle-like leaves with<br />

strong piny scent and<br />

flavor.<br />

SAFFRON<br />

Fragrant spice that is the<br />

dried stigmas of crocus.<br />

Expensive because they<br />

are handpicked (about<br />

250,000 make a pound),<br />

but a little goes a long<br />

way. Too much saffron<br />

lends an unpleasant<br />

medicinal flavor.<br />

SAGE<br />

Herb with musky flavor.<br />

Silver-green leaves make<br />

sage a decorative garden<br />

plant.<br />

Excellent in soups,<br />

stocks, cream and tomato<br />

sauces, salads and salad<br />

dressings; with poultry,<br />

game, meats, fish, and<br />

shellfish, dried beans,<br />

and vegetables—from<br />

artichokes to zucchini.<br />

Use for cakes, pastries,<br />

cookies, breads, with<br />

noodles and fresh fruit.<br />

Best with game, poultry,<br />

and meats, especially<br />

grilled. Add judiciously<br />

to mushrooms, roasted<br />

potatoes, stuffing, olive<br />

oil breads and buns, and<br />

ripe melon.<br />

Use in paella,<br />

bouillabaisse, risotto,<br />

tomato and cream soups,<br />

couscous; with seafood;<br />

in Swedish cakes and<br />

breads.<br />

Excellent and best known<br />

for poultry stuffing. Use<br />

judiciously with chicken,<br />

duck, goose, pork,<br />

sausages, cheese,<br />

eggplant, and dried bean<br />

stews and soups.<br />

Fresh sprigs and<br />

crumbled dried. Fresh<br />

parsley is readily<br />

available; dried parsley is<br />

pale and dusty in<br />

comparison.<br />

Whole seeds and ground<br />

paste<br />

Fresh sprigs and whole<br />

dried<br />

Dried whole stigmas and<br />

ground. Dried whole<br />

saffron threads are of<br />

better quality.<br />

Fresh sprigs, dried whole<br />

leaves, crumbled dried,<br />

and ground<br />

Indoors and out<br />

No<br />

Best outdoors but will<br />

grow indoors<br />

No<br />

Best outdoors but will<br />

grow indoors


<strong>SEASON</strong> <strong>TO</strong> <strong>TASTE</strong> 563<br />

<strong>HERB</strong> OR <strong>SPICE</strong> BEST USE AVAILABLE GROW (in average garden)<br />

SALAD BURNET<br />

Lacy-leaved herb with a<br />

cucumber taste.<br />

SAVORY<br />

This peppery herb has<br />

two varieties—summer<br />

and winter. Summer<br />

savory is the more<br />

delicate and best suited<br />

for cooking.<br />

TARRAGON<br />

Herb with mild licorice<br />

flavor. French tarragon<br />

has subtlest flavor.<br />

THYME<br />

Herb with tiny leaves<br />

and minty, tea-like<br />

flavor. Many varieties<br />

include lemon, orange,<br />

English, and French<br />

thyme.<br />

TURMERIC<br />

Brilliant yellow ground<br />

spice.<br />

Use young small leaves<br />

in salads and with fresh<br />

cheeses.<br />

Europeans call savory the<br />

bean herb for its special<br />

affinity for limas, string<br />

beans, lentils, and dried<br />

beans. Also excellent in<br />

meatloaf and meatballs,<br />

sausages; with poultry,<br />

cheese, eggs, cauliflower,<br />

tomatoes, and onions.<br />

Best with chicken, veal,<br />

fish, shellfish, eggs; in<br />

mayonnaise and salad<br />

dressings; with tomatoes,<br />

mushrooms, and carrots.<br />

Essential herb of the<br />

bouquet garni as well as<br />

fish and clam chowder,<br />

sausages, pates, and<br />

stuffing. Excellent with<br />

fish and shellfish,<br />

poultry, tomatoes, beans,<br />

eggplant, mushrooms,<br />

potatoes, and summer<br />

squash.<br />

Essential to mustard,<br />

curry powder, pickles,<br />

and relishes; also used in<br />

moderation for its yellow<br />

color in rice dishes.<br />

Fresh sprigs in specialty<br />

markets<br />

Fresh sprigs and<br />

crumbled dried<br />

Fresh sprigs, dried whole<br />

leaves, and crumbled<br />

dried<br />

Fresh sprigs and<br />

crumbled dried<br />

Ground dried<br />

Outdoors<br />

Summer savory: indoors<br />

and out Winter savory:<br />

outdoors<br />

Indoors<br />

and out<br />

Indoors and out<br />

No

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